Coco - Flodesk€¦ · • Cut 1 – Inside Patch Pocket • Cut 4 -Inset. Items in Exterior fabric WITHOUT Pattern Pieces: • Cut 2 - Straps 46cm X 17cm (18” X 6¾”) Items in

©Copyright 2012, ChrisW Designs. All Rights Reserved. Please do not copy and/or distribute this pattern in any way whatsoever, whether you profit from it or not. However please feel free to distribute the link to my website http://www.chriswdesigns.com so your friends can obtain their own copy!

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This FREE pattern is proudly brought to you by ChrisW Designs. http://www.chriswdesigns.com I do hope you enjoy this free pattern and if so, I hope you will share the link and maybe even add a link to it on your own blog! That would be wonderful and very much appreciated! :) Special thanks to my wonderful pattern testers, in particular Maria for finding my pattern booboos and Naomi for naming this bag for me and for proof reading! I would be LOST without these wonderful Ladies! Thank you!

http://www.chriswdesigns.com/


Coco © 2012 ChrisWDesigns.com 2

Printing Instructions:

Please ensure you check your printer’s setup or print handling prior to printing, to ensure that any available settings for “Printing to scale” or “No Scale” or “Print Scaling: None” are checked. Print at 100% or actual size. If you are using Windows 10, please ensure you have updated to the latest version of Adobe Reader, its free! Test squares are included on each pattern page for you to check that your printer is printing to scale. If you enjoy this pattern, you can find more at ChrisW Designs: http://www.chriswdesigns.com

You can also find free tutorials and other fun free stuff on my Blog: http://blog.chriswdesigns.com

Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chriswdesigns/ Use the hashtags #coco &

#chriswdesigns

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Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ChrsWDesignsPatternsGroup/

Features:

The Coco is just right for a day out! It closes with a magnetic snap and has an inside slip pocket as well. Featuring grommets, piped handles with hooks and rivets too, nobody will believe you made it yourself! Finished bag size = 33cmW X 11.5cmD X 20cmH. (13”W X 4½”D X 8”H)

Pattern Notes

• All seam allowances are 6mm (¼”) unless otherwise stated.

• Right side = Front or patterned side of the fabric

• When joining 2 printed paper pattern pieces (where the pattern piece does not fit whole on one

sheet of paper for printing) make sure that you line up the pattern pieces so that the join lines

overlap to become one line. Tape together with sticky tape and cut. Easy!

Fabric & Construction Suggestions For this bag I have used quilting weight fabrics and faux suede for the top band. *When making the straps it is much

easier to sew the ends in place by making the interfacing shorter than the strap by 3” on each end so this is how I

have written the instructions however the pics show the straps fully interfaced.

If you have a good machine, you may like to fully interface the strap. However if you are unsure of your machines

capabilities, I suggest the shorter interfacing! This cut down on the bulk, which really helps if your machine baulks at

a lot of thicknesses! I also riveted my straps to make them secure.

For hardware and supplies, please visit my Resources page for suggestions:

https://www.chriswdesigns.com/pages/hardware-resources

For woven interfacing, I suggest WovenFuse as a very economical and fantastic quality woven interfacing!

(Alternative to Pellon SF101)

TIP: If you don’t like riveting or not keen on the piped straps, you can easily make this bag with flat straps instead.

Just cut your straps at 10cm (4”) wide instead. Once made, to attach, fold them over and stitch in place with a boxed

cross formation to secure and they will sit nicely flat! Note: The piped straps DO gather/bunch a little on the hooks

eye. This is normal for this particular style of piped strap and not an error.


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These are the hooks and grommets I have used.

You will need:

• Exterior Fabric: Suggested Quilting weight cottons or Home Dec weight 45cm (½ Yard) of 112cm (44”) wide

fabric

• Small amount of Contrast Fabric for your band. (I used a leftover piece of Faux Suede that I had in my stash)

• Lining Fabric: Quilting weight - 45cm (½ Yard) of 112cm (44”) wide fabric.

• Fusible Interfacing: Mid - weight – 90cm (1 Yard). I suggest WovenFuse or Pellon SF101

• Fusible Fleece. Mid weight - I used Pellon Fusible Thermolam Plus TP971F 25cm (¼ Yard)

• Small amount of double sided fusible Peltex or similar firm stabilizer for the top band.

• Piece of Template Plastic – 23cm X 10cm (9” X 4”)

• Matching Thread.

• 4 X 4.5cm (1¾”) long Hooks X 2.5cm (1”) wide (Inside measurement of strap loop).

• 4 X 10mm (⅜”) Grommets. (Inside diameter)

• 2 pieces of 1cm diameter (⅜”) plastic tubing, 33cm (13 “) Long.

• 4 Double Capped Rivets.

Tools:

• Your sewing machine

• Scissors & Rotary Cutter and mat (optional)

• Fading marker or chalk

• Pins

• Iron

• Tape measure

• Hammer

• Grommet setting tools

• Rivet setting tools

• Seam/stitch ripper (Just in case!)

• Reading Glasses - if you are getting a little over the hill, like ME! LOL

2.5cm (1”)

Length = 4.5cm (1¾”) Grommet inside

diameter = 10mm (⅜”)

http://www.wovenfuse.com/


How to make your bag -Preparation: Before you begin, I recommend you make yourself a nice hot cuppa, settle back in your favourite chair and READ

through all of the instructions to get the bigger picture and then follow them in order.

1) Cutting Out:

Cut the fabric, interfacing, fleece, Peltex & Template Plastic pieces as instructed. Where pattern pieces are cut on

the fold you will need to take care to fold fabric etc before cutting.

Items in Exterior fabric

• Cut 2 – Body (On Fold)

• Cut 4 – Top Band (On Fold )

• Cut 1 – Inside Patch Pocket

• Cut 4 -Inset

Items in Exterior fabric WITHOUT Pattern Pieces:

• Cut 2 - Straps 46cm X 17cm (18” X 6¾”)

Items in Lining fabric

• Cut 2 – Body LINING (On Fold)

• Cut 1 – Inside Patch Pocket

• Cut 1 – Bag Base (On Fold)

• Cut 2 – Magnetic Snap Tabs

Items in Fusible Interfacing

• Cut 4 – Body LINING (On Fold)

• Cut 4 – Top Band (On Fold )

• Cut 4 – Magnetic Snap Tab Reinforcements

Items in Fusible Interfacing WITHOUT pattern Pieces:

NOTE: Fusible interfacing for the strap is 15cm (6”) shorter than your Strap length!

• Cut 2- Strap 30.5cm X 17cm (12” X 6¾”)

Items in Fusible Fleece

• Cut 2 – Body FLEECE (On Fold)

Items in Peltex or similar

• Cut 2 – Top Band

Items in template Plastic

• Cut 1 – bag Base


Sewing Instructions: Unless otherwise stated, use 6mm (¼”) seam allowance.

Let’s make it: 2) Attach Interfacing to your strap:

*Interface Strap - Centre the interfacing on your strap so that there is 7.5cm (3”) of space either end without interfacing. This is to reduce bulk and make it easier to sew the straps as it gets quite thick if you interface right to the end!

3) Make the Straps:

a) First we need to make two closed end straps. Press 6mm (¼”) under to wrong side on each short end of the strap.

b) Fold in half, lengthwise and press a crease. c) Now open out and fold long raw edges in until they almost meet the crease, press.

When unfolded, it looks like this: (Note my straps are shown fully interfaced - See Fabric & Construction Suggestions on page 4)

d) Now fold your pressed strap in half, pressed edges together and press nice and flat.

Pressed Edges

Creased Edge


e) Topstitch the open pressed edges together along both short sides and the open long edge. f) Now we will complete the piped strap: Next fold your strap in half again and pin together to form a tube,

leaving 7.5cm (3”) open on each end. This part won’t be stitched closed!

g) Next stitch the strap sides together to form a tube, beginning and ending 7.5cm (3”) from each end. h) Now insert the tubing into the strap.

i) Maneuver the tubing so that it lies within the stitched tube of the strap and stitch each short end closed to

secure tubing inside. TIPS: When stitching the first seam across it is easier to push the tubing back out of the

way somewhat. When stitching the second seam, you may like to use a zipper foot or set your needle as far

over towards the tubing as you can get it, if your machine has this feature.

Leave 7.5cm (3”)

open on each end.


j) Now taking one of your hooks, thread the end of the strap through and secure in place with a few stitches,

back and forth. This is the point that may test your machine if you have interfaced your entire strap! If you

Rivet your strap as well as stitch, it will be fine even if you don’t manage to stitch this well!

Repeat for the other end and add rivets to secure and for decoration! If you need help with setting rivets, please

refer to my rivet tutorial on my blog here: http://blog.chriswdesigns.com/2011/03/how-to-install-rivets.html

4) Let’s Make the Exterior:

a) With right sides together pin inset pieces to body, making sure that you match the notch marks on the Inset

to the notch marks on the body.

http://blog.chriswdesigns.com/2011/03/how-to-install-rivets.html


b) You will end up with little triangles like these, which is how it should be as you will cut these off shortly:

c) Open out and press seams flat and apart.

d) Interface the exterior body pieces, over the top of the seams like this and cut off the triangular bits:

e) Now attach your fleece to the body pieces, on top of interfacing. Cut out the fleece where your darts are

located:


f) With right sides together, stitch darts.

g) Apply Interfacing to your top band pieces. Set two aside for now. Pin straight edge of top band, right sides

together with your body.

h) Stitch. Press seams down towards body.

i) Run a row of topstitching along the body side of seam and run two rows of topstitching down either side of

inset seams.


j) Place body pieces right sides together, making sure you match darts and seams. Pin in place.

k) Stitch.

l) Finger press the seam OPEN and run a row of topstitching down either side of the seam you just sewed. It’s

a little fiddly BUT this will help your bag hold its shape nicely and look more professional!

Your bag now looks like this:


Set aside for the moment!

5) Make Magnetic Snap Tabs

a) Take one of the fabric magnetic snap pieces and fold in half, right sides together. Press.

b) Open tab and place the reinforcement interfacing just above the fold on the wrong side and iron in place.

c) Using a magnetic snap backing as a template, make a mark 1.5cm (½”) above the fold. (In the centre hole of

magnetic snap backing)

d) Cut slits for your magnetic snap as per template and insert the prongs through the slits.

e) Place the backing plate over the magnetic snap and bend prongs inwards using a hammer.


f) Iron another interfacing strip over the top of your snap to protect the tab from wear.

g) Fold the magnetic snap tab in half, right sides together. Stitch along both side edges. Clip corners.

h) Turn right sides out and press.

i) Repeat for the second magnetic snap tab. Set them aside for the moment.

6) Prepare Top Band.

a) Retrieve the two top band pieces you set aside earlier. Fold in half to locate the centre and mark with a pin.


b) Centre magnetic snap tab onto the top band with right sides together (the snap is down to you can’t see it)

and raw edges are 2.5cm (1”) down from the top.

c) Run a row of stitches approximately 3mm (⅛”) up from raw edges.

d) Fold tab down over the raw edges and run two rows of stitching to secure tab in place, making sure you

enclose the raw edges as you go! Repeat for the second snap.

e) Place top band, right sides together and pin sides.

f) Stitch, pressing seams open.

Raw edges of the tab are

2.5cm (1”) down from the

top.


g) Retrieve your exterior body and place your top band, right sides together (curved edges) and matching side

seams, pin in place.

h) Stitch. Trim the seam back across the top of the side seams.

i) Press the seam open.


j) Fold top band down, wrong sides together and press again. Run a row of topstitching close to pressed

edges.

Set aside for the moment!

7) Assemble Lining:

a) Retrieve pocket pieces. Place right sides together and pin together, leaving a 7.5cm (3” ) gap open at the

bottom for turning. Stitch and trim corners.

b) Turn right sides out and press.

c) Apply interfacing to your body lining pieces.

d) Centre pocket onto one of your bag lining pieces, 2cm (¾”) down from the top of lining, making sure the hole

you left for turning is at the bottom. (Please note picture shows larger pocket placed further down, please

ignore this!)

Place pocket 2cm (¾”)

down from top

7.5cm (3” ) gap


e) Stitch in place using two rows of topstitching, closing bottom opening as you go, making sure you leave the

top of your pocket open! LOL

f) Next stitch darts in your lining

g) Press all dart towards the centre.

h) Place lining pieces, right sides together. Pin in place, leaving a gap of approximately 18cm (7”) for turning

your bag.


i) Stitch and press seams open.

8) Assemble You Bag!

a) Now let’s put it all together! With your lining WRONG SIDE OUT and your bag exterior RIGHT SIDE OUT, put

your bag exterior INSIDE your lining so that RIGHT SIDES are together. Take care to match the side seams

and make sure your magnetic snaps are down out of the way! Pin.

b) Stitch all the way around your bag.

c) Pull your bag through the hole you left in your lining so your bag is now right side out with your lining

pushed down inside the bag. (Leave the hole open for the moment!)

d) Take one of your Peltex pieces and through the hole in your lining, carefully push it up as far as it will go into

your top band, lining up the sides with your side seams. Remember the curved side goes to the top of your

bag. Pin in place and repeat for the second piece of Peltex.

e) Now carefully press your top band BETWEEN your pins to fuse the Peltex in place. Press from both sides to

get a good bond. Remove pins and press the rest of your band so that the Peltex is firmly fused all the way

around.


f) Next, using your fading marker, on wrong side, measure in 8cm (3¼”) from side seam and down 18mm (¾”)

and make a cross to mark where to set your Grommets.

g) Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and set your grommets in place!

h) Insert your straps hooks into the grommets. Now stitch closed the opening in your lining either with ladder

stitches or if you are a bit lazy, like me, you can machine the seam closed close to the edges. Set aside for

the moment! Great! Your almost done!

8cm (3¼”) in from side seam

18mm (¾”) down

from the top


9) Make a base for your bag!

a) Retrieve your template plastic (or similar firm bag bottom) and your bag sleeve lining fabric.

b) Fold the sleeve lining in half, right sides together. Pin.

c) Stitch one short side and one long side, leaving one short end open for turning.

d) Clip corners.

e) Turn right side out. Press

f) Trim the points off your template plastic so they aren’t so sharp.


g) Slip your template plastic into the sleeve, fold the seam allowance inwards and stitch the opening closed,

close to folds.

h) Slip your bag bottom into your bag and you’re done!

Congratulations, You can now show off your new bag!

©Copyright 2012, ChrisW Designs. All Rights Reserved. Please do not copy and/or distribute this pattern in any way whatsoever, whether you profit from it or not. However please feel free to distribute the link to my website http://www.chriswdesigns.com so your friends can obtain their own copy!

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Test Square =

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COCO

Body FLEECE

Cut 2

Pla

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old

Top ↑

Test Square =

2.5cm x 2.5cm

(1”x 1”)


COCO

Bag Base

Cut 1 Template Plastic

Test Square =

2.5cm x 2.5cm

(1”x 1”)


COCO

Bag Base

Cut 1 Lining

Pla

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old

A seam allowance of 6mm (¼”)

is included in the pattern.

©ChrisWDesigns.com 2012

Test Square =

2.5cm x 2.5cm

(1”x 1”)


COCO

Inside Patch Pocket

Cut 1 Exterior

Cut 1 Lining

A seam allowance of 6mm (¼”)

is included in the pattern.

©ChrisWDesigns.com 2012

COCO

Magnetic Snap Tabs

Cut 2 Lining

COCO Magnetic Snap Tabs

Reinforcement

Cut 4 Interfacing

Test Square =

2.5cm x 2.5cm

(1”x 1”)

Documents

Coco - Flodesk€¦ · • Cut 1 – Inside Patch Pocket • Cut 4 -Inset. Items in Exterior fabric WITHOUT Pattern Pieces: • Cut 2 - Straps 46cm X 17cm (18” X 6¾”) Items in