PRIMARY SOURCES

ARTICLES

Garden, Mary. "Why I Bobbed My Hair." Pictorial Review Apr. 1927: 8. American

Social History Project / Center for Media and Learning. George Mason

University. Web. 27 Apr. 2010. <http://historymatters.gmu.edu/d/5117/>.

This is an article written by singer Mary Garden for Pictorial Review, a

popular women’s magazine in the 1920’s. She describes how bobbed hair

frees women, and how she wishes to embody “the new woman”. We used this

and Mary Pickford’s opposing article to understand the freedoms and social

placing women enjoyed or did not enjoy in the 1920’s and the flapper age.

Pickford, Mary. "Why I Have Not Bobbed Mine." Pictorial Review Apr. 1927: 9.

American Social History Project / Center for Media and Learning. George

Mason University. Web. 27 Apr. 2010.

<http://historymatters.gmu.edu/d/5117/>.

In this excerpt from a popular women’s magazine, film star Mary Pickford

defends her decision not to sheer her locks, claiming that she is doing it for

her fans. Pickford admits that though she may seem to be a slave to society

and its expectations, she is willing. This article was part of a debate over the

short hair trend of the 1920’s, and the social implications of cutting off or

keeping hair. We used this in our time period page and our feminism pages

to show the changing ways of women. We read and analyzed both the pro

and con articles, in order to see both perspectives of the flapper ways and

new woman’s status.

BOOKS

Haedrich, Marcel. Coco Chanel; her life, her secrets. . 1st ed. Boston, MA: Little

Brown,

1972. Print.

Another biographical look at Chanel’s life, this book further added to our

research. This particular book was written the year after Coco Chanel died,

but the French author saw first hand the impact of the legendary designer.

Again, we used this to confirm our views on Chanel as a woman, and how her

personal life played a role in the independent woman we see her as.

Kirkland, Douglas. Coco Chanel : three weeks 1962. 1st ed. New York: Glitterati,

2008.

Print.

Douglas Kirkland is a prominent photographer who has photographed

Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Angelina Jolie and many more. He began

his career at Look Magazine and in 1962, at the ripe age of 24, he was sent

to Paris, France to photograph Coco Chanel for two weeks. He stayed for

three, and published this book with the photos he took of her, many of them

quite personal. We read this book, and contacted him to request an interview

regarding his experience with the legendary designer. The book itself was

useful for us to see into Coco Chanel as a woman, the photos and captions

describing her independent manner. We also used a few of these photos in

the website itself, on the Supplements page.

Koda, Harold. Chanel. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art New York, 2005.

Print.

This book of Chanel designs and designs by others show the revolutionary

work of Coco Chanel. We were able to visually see the impact Chanel had on

fashion, and her unique silhouettes.

Mee, Sue. 1900-20 Linen & Lace (20th Century Fashion). Grand Rapids: Gareth

Stevens,

2000. Print.

A direct reprint of a catalogue book of the popular fashions right before Coco

Chanel entered the frame. This book actually has forms to fill that had been

for women to order the patterns they desired. We used this to help us

establish a view of the clothing immediately before Chanel’s magnificent

innovations.

Tyrrell, Anne V. Changing Trends in Fashion Patterns of the 20th Century 1900-

1970.

London: Drama Pub, 1986. Print.

This book has a large collection of shapes and silhouettes of the 20th

century. As the pages moved on, the easier it is to see the change in fashion

through time. We utilized this to understand the corset shape of the earlier

years, and the looser, freer patterns of the latter ones, thanks in large part to

the work of Coco Chanel.

IMAGES

"Before Chanel and After Coco's Life - Audrey Tautou - Zimbio." Zimbio - Interactive

Magazine. Web. 27 Mar. 2010.

<http://www.zimbio.com/Audrey+Tautou/articles/46/Before+Chanel+After+

Coco+Life>.

This source provided a picture with Chanel inside her apartment on Rue

Cambon in Paris. We placed the image into the photo gallery. Zimbio is an

online magazine, venture backed by Menlo Ventures and Draper Richards.

Brown, Carol Mary, and Sydonie Bénet. "Chanel, Gabrielle 'Coco'." Contemporary

Fashion. Ed. Taryn Benbow-Pfalzgraf. 2nd ed. Detroit: St. James Press, 2002.

123-126. Fashion & Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This is a picture of model Marlene Dietrich as she wears a classic Chanel

pant suit in 1933. It shows the epitome of a modern woman in the early 20th

century; short hair and masculine clothing.

Coco Chanel. Fashion Encyclopedia. Web. 20 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/images/sjcf_01_img0074.jpg>.

This image is used within our website as a portrayal of Chanel's everlasting

style. She wears a decadent layer of pearls, as well as her signature boxy

silhouette.

Crick/Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jessa. "Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (18831971) and

the

House of Chanel | Thematic Essay | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History | The

Metropolitan Museum of Art." The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York:

metmuseum.org. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm>.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute wrote an essay of

Chanel. This allowed us to have insight on Chanel's designs from an artistic

and historical view. The online exhibit also included many pictures of her

designs, which are featured within our website. The Metropolitan Museum

of Art is an excellent source by providing us with a good historical and

artistic context for Chanel’s innovations.

"Gallery - Chanel News - Fashion News and behind the Scenes Features." Chanel

News

Fashion News and behind the Scenes Features. Web. 27 Mar. 2010.

<http://www.chanel-news.com/en/wp-content/themes/chanel-news/gallery.ph

p?id=74#undefined>.

This source provided us with many photos, taken by Douglas Kirkland, of

Chanel within her apartment. We utilized the images in our photo gallery.

This website is created by Karl Lagerfeld in remembrance of Chanel and her

life. It includes many images of Chanel’s furniture in the Ritz apartment.

Kirkland, Douglas. Chanel Storefront. 1962. Photograph. Paris. Coco Chanel: Three

Weeks 1962. 1st ed. New York: Glitterati, 2008. Print.

One of the photos found in Coco Chanel Three Weeks 1962, this is a photo

taken of the Chanel storefront. We utilized this to show how far Coco Chanel

has come.

Miss Camille Clifford. NLA. Web. 30 Jan. 2010. http://nla.gov.au/nla.pic-

an10714209-3-v>.

The source provided another picture of Miss Clifford to reiterate the

traditional 20th century silhouette. This picture was used within the "Design

Work" webpage to directly contrast the difference in fashion after Chanel

revolutionized the female shape. The website is sponsored by the National

Library of Australia, which has an excellent source of images documenting

the Gibson girl period.

Suffragists. National Archives UK. Web. 11 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/education/britain1906to1918/g4/cs3/

images/g4cs3s1.gif>.

The suffragist women of the 20th century were activists advocating for

women's rights. This picture was used in the "Time Period" page so the

viewer can acknowledge the prominence of the feminist movement. The

website is sponsored by a government based, national archive of the United

Kingdom.

The Ideal Gibson Girl: Camille Clifford. Rain reflections. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://rainreflections.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/camille-clifford.jpg>.

Camille Clifford was the epitome of an ideal Gibson Girl. Gibson Girls were

known for their corseted waistlines, and busty silhouettes. These shapes

were constricting to women and Chanel completely defies these ideals.

Written by Chris Pearson, the site extensively explores women throughout

history and the fashions that evolved in conjunction with their development.

Tranchees. Ambafrance. Web. 11 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.ambafrance-uk.org/IMG/jpg_tranchees.jpg>.

During World War II, trenches were dug for the soldiers. This image was

used in

the "Time Period" web page to illustrate the war-filled time in which Chanel

resided. This website is the online database for the French Embassy in the

United Kingdom.

INTERVIEWS

Kirkland, Douglas. "Three Weeks with Coco Chanel." Telephone interview. Oct.

2009.

Douglas Kirkland is a famed photographer, notable for his photos of Coco

Chanel, Marilyn Monroe, Angelina Jolie, Elizabeth Taylor, and a slew of other

famous subjects. After reading his book chronicling his time spent with the

legendary designer in 1962, we contacted him to request an interview. To

our humble surprise, he agreed. We asked him about his opinions on Chanel

and her influence on him. This interview became invaluable to our research,

as a statement he said about Chanel’s confident nature and insistence on

being called “Mademoiselle”, a name for young unmarried women, instead of

“Madame” showed us exactly the type of independent and strong woman she

was, that would become the center of our thesis. We are very lucky to have

acquired this interview with him, as his statements define exactly our thesis

on Coco Chanel’s impact as an innovator, of fashion and more.

TELEVISION RECORDING

Chanel, Coco, dir. CHANEL: Défilé De La Collection 1959. Paris, 1959. INA. Institut

National De L'Audiovisuel, 13 Jan. 2007. Web. 30 Apr. 2010.

<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sutlG32fnrU>.

This video of the 1959 Chanel collection aired on French television. We took

it from the French National Audiovisual Institute’s archives. Clips from this

show are used in the Gallery/Multimedia page.

SECONDARY SOURCES

ARTICLES

Crick/Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jessa. "Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (18831971) and

the

House of Chanel | Thematic Essay | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History | The

Metropolitan Museum of Art." The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York:

metmuseum.org. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm>.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute wrote an essay of

Chanel. This allowed us to have insight on Chanel's designs from an artistic

and historical view. As mentioned before, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in

New York documents important artistic dates in history, and includes

Chanel’s designs as one of the landmarks in women’s history for her

innovative designs.

Ferla, Ruth La. "The Mother of Reinvention." New York Times. 24 Sep. 2009: E1.

eLibrary. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source provided us with an extensive amount of quotes from professors,

directors, and authors about Chanel and her innovations as a feminist.

Sischy, Ingrid. "Time 100: The Most Important People of the Century." TIME

Magazine 8 June 1998. Web. Oct. 2009. <

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,988494,00.html >.

Time magazine is a well-renown publication that comments on society and

modern events. This article was one of the first things we read in our

research, when considering what we would choose as our innovator or

innovation. This magazine listed and wrote articles on one hundred people

that defined the 20th century. Coco Chanel was the only person in the field of

fashion who was honored. Sischy’s article on her describes Chanel as a

pioneer in her work, ahead of her time. The article also claims that her work

is “unquestionably part of the liberation of women”. We were moved deeply

by this article and were compelled to focus our thesis on not only the

technical aspects of her innovation, but the more meaningful discussion of

Coco Chanel as somebody who changed the way women look at themselves.

Stephanie Green, The Washington Times. "Inventing Modern Women; Film traces

How Chanel Updated Feminine Ideal." Washington Times. 14 Oct. 2009: B01.

eLibrary. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source provided us with many quotes from Catherine Leterrier and Ms.

de Clermont about Chanel's innovations in feminism. These quotes are

featured in the "Feminist" and "Design" pages.

"The Modern Woman." TIME Magazine 2009. Print.

This issue of Time magazine focused on the state of the modern woman

today. How far she has come from the tradition of the early and even middle

20th century. The progress of womankind is extraordinary, and this issue

describes how women have fought for and won independence, and how that

is reflected today. We utilized this article to inform ourselves of the attitude

of the current woman, and how that compares and contrasts with that of

women less than one hundred years ago. From reading this article, we were

armed with information for us to write a section on how women have

changed, and how Coco Chanel played a part in freeing women from the

constraints and traditions of the patriarchal society. This article was

essential to our knowledge and understanding of women and the changes

that have occurred.

Welter, Barbara. "The Cult of True Womanhood: 1820-1860." American Quarterly

18.2

(1966): 151-74. Print.

As part of our reading and studying of 19th century literature for our

humanities class, we were required to read this influential essay. Barbara

Welter breaks down the expectations and views of women before Chanel’s

time. From this, we gained perspective into the constraining lifestyles of

women in the 1800’s. After reading this, we were even more compelled to

focus our topic on Chanel’s impact on women through her fashion and

attitude toward life. This was useful for us to distinguish the differences

between women before Chanel, and women as and after the legendary

designer made her mark on the world.

BOOKS

Angeletti, Norberto, and Alberto Oliva. In Vogue: the Illustrated History of the

World's

Most Famous Fashion Magazine. New York: Rizzoli, 2006. Print.

This source takes a look at the contributions of Chanel from both a fashion

and cultural point of view. It includes many excerpts from past Vogue issues,

which were used throughout our website.

Bobek, Milan. 1920s Decades of the 20th Century. Prescott, AZ: Eldorado Ink, 2005.

Print.

Book with vivid photographs and clear descriptions of major events in the

1920s. This was helpful in order to understand the time period Coco Chanel

lived in, providing a large spectrum of crucial moments in that decade,

including the changing status of womens rights in Europe.

Charles-Roux, Edmonde. Chanel and Her World. New York: Vendome, 2005. Print.

An extensive and lengthy biography of the legendary designer, this book was

essential towards our basic research on the life and background of our

project’s subject.

Cosgrave, Bronwyn. The Complete History of Costume and Fashion: From Ancient

Egypt to the Present Day. New York: Checkmark Books, 2000.

A thorough textbook reference on fashion throughout the ages. We used this

to see how women’s fashion evolved in relation to time period, and how

Chanel’s designs were radically different from the clothing before her

influence.

Darnell, Paula Jean. Victorian to Vamp Women's Clothing 1900-1929. Fabric

Fancies,

2000. Print.

This book described the transition of clothing in the early 20th century,

marking the end of the Edwardian period and the beginning of new fashion.

We used this to aid our research in the fashions of Chanel’s early career, as

she began her business toward the end of this time.

Gourley, Catherine. Gibson girls and Suffragists: Perceptions of Women from the

Turn of

the Century through 1918. Minneapolis, MN: Twenty-First Century, 2008.

Print.

This book describes the iconic women of the turn of the 20th century. The

clothing of the Gibson Girls can be directly contrasted with what Coco

Chanel created just years later. The information on the Suffragists was also

important to our research on women, and the movement for freedom, that

although Chanel did not state she had any affiliation with, she ultimately

supported through her innovation in fashion. This book gave us the

information we needed to support our perception of Chanel as a

revolutionary and strong woman of her day.

Gourley, Catherine. Flappers and the New American Woman Perceptions of Women

from 1918 Through the 1920s (Images and Issues of Women in the Twentieth

Century). New York: Twenty-First Century (CT), 2007. Print.

This book continues where Gibson Girls left off. Although the New American

Woman is indeed American and not French like Chanel, the change in

America is mirrored across the Western world. This book investigates the

groundbreaking women of the time, providing us insight in the change that

was happening to women. The rebellious and independent nature of the new

woman is a clue to our claim that Chanel’s fashion was a catalyst of

feminism. Coco Chanel opened her shop right during this time of radical

change, unlikely to be just a coincidence, and material for our thesis.

Kennedy, David M., Lizabeth Cohen, and Thomas Andrew Bailey. The American

Pageant: a History of the Republic. 13th ed. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 2006.

Print.

Although this textbook is an Advanced Placement American History book, it

covered the major events worldwide as well, and we utilized it for the

historical context portion of our website, using it to learn about the world

wars and other significant movements in the late 19th and early 20th century.

Kleiner, Fred S., and Christin J. Mamiya. Gardner's Art through the Ages A Concise

History. 1st ed. Belmont: Wadsworth, 2006. Print.

This large book is one of the most respected college level art history

textbooks. As students enrolled in a serious art class for the past 5 years, we

actively read this book to gain insight into art history and the progression of

society as art changes. By reading this book, we are able to see the

connections between art and history. As history and people’s views on the

world shift, so does art. Subconsciously, the reading of this book helped a lot

in creating our thesis, which claims the correlation between an artist’s

contributions in the art and fashion world to history. Also, we read a chapter

on the early 1900s that proved crucial to our understanding of the historical

context and movements in art of the time, and supplied much of our

knowledge on the wars and critical events of Chanel’s era.

Madsen, Axel. Chanel: A Woman of Her Own. New York: Henry Holt, 1990.

A biography of Coco Chanel, split into four parts; childhood, early business,

decline, and comeback. This book was helpful especially in our

understanding of Chanel’s relationships with Igor Stravinsky and the Duke of

Westminster, and how World War II affected Chanel and fashion.

Steele, Valerie. The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven, CT: Yale University

Press,

2001.

This book by the chief curator of the Fashion Institute of Technology analyzes

the cultural significance of the corset, a part of popular fashion for the better

part of four hundred years. Instead of just analyzing the corset in the sense

of oppression versus liberation, Steele wrote about how it was a symbol of

status and social acceptance and beauty. We read this book to aid our

analysis of the changes Chanel’s innovation in fashion catalyzed, and what it

meant for women and status in the 1920’s.

Wallach, Janet. Chanel her style and her life. 1st ed. New York: N. Talese, 1998.

Print.

This book was one more biography of the designer that we read. This

particular book focused much on the innovative style of Chanel, as well as

her personal life and romantic endeavors. We used this information in

conjunction with what we already learned about our subject.

Watson, Linda. Vogue Fashion: over 100 Years of Style by Decade and Designer, in

Association with Vogue. Richmond Hill, Ont.: Firefly, 2008. Print.

This book provided us with a look on Coco Chanel through the eyes of Vogue

magazine. We took many quotes from this source and placed them

throughout our webpages. They really capture Chanel's impact upon society

and culture in a certain time period.

ENCYCLOPEDIA

Anderson, Fiona. "Tweed." Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele.

Vol. 3. Detroit: Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. 346-348. Fashion & Costume

Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source described the beginning uses of tweed in Chanel's design history.

Due to her relationship with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel was inspired to

use Scottish tweed. This information was utilized in Chanel's "Later Life" web

page.

"Chanel, Gabrielle 'Coco'." Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear,

Body

Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages. Ed. Sara Pendergast and Tom

Pendergast. Vol. 4: Modern World Part I: 1900-1945. Detroit: UXL, 2004.

766-767. Fashion & Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source is a biography focusing on the fashion and culture of Chanel, part

of a fashion reference book. Coco Chanel created the basic look of the

modern woman. This statement laid the foundation to our website. Her

timeless success was outlined within this web selection. She had a practical

approach to high fashion. She believed that the point of fashion was to allow

the real woman to show through, not to cover her up with frills and fluff. Her

name "coco" is derived from the word cocotte, a French word for a woman

with loose morals. Women like first lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis wore

many of Chanel's designs, popularizing her designs in America.

"Chanel No. 5." Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body

Decorations,

and Footwear through the Ages. Ed. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast.

Vol. 4: Modern World Part I: 1900-1945. Detroit: UXL, 2004. 764-765.

Fashion & Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source from a well-respected fashion and costume textbook described

how the famous Chanel No. 5 perfume came to be. Infused with aldehydes

and hints of jasmine, chemist Ernest Beaux mixed the perfume to match

Chanel's strong personality.

"Flappers." Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations,

and

Footwear through the Ages. Ed. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast. Vol.

4: Modern World Part I: 1900-1945. Detroit: UXL, 2004. 732. Fashion &

Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source describes how Chanel greatly influenced the creation of the

flapper girl, the first modern women. The information is featured in the

"Feminist" innovation page.

Gibson, Pamela Church. "Fashion Icons." Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed.

Valerie Steele. Vol. 2. Detroit: Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. 46-48.Fashion

& Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source provided us with a quote that describes Chanel as a Fashion Icon

and how she participated in the democratization of fashion. We used the

quote in our photo gallery.

Sauro, Clare. "Flappers." Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele.

Vol.

2. Detroit: Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. 88-89. Fashion & Costume

Reference Collection. Web. 29 Mar. 2010.

Entry on the flapper subculture of the 1920’s and their frivolous and carefree

disregard for authority and tradition. Used for support on the changing

status of women thanks in part to fashion design that broke established

conventions once according to the fantasies of men.

"Short Hair for Women." Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body

Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages. Ed. Sara Pendergast and Tom

Pendergast. Vol. 4: Modern World Part I: 1900-1945. Detroit: UXL, 2004.

761-762. Fashion & Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source from a large and all encompassing fashion textbook provided us

with historical background on why women began to cut their hair short, and

what this action symbolized. We used the information in our "Feminist" page.

Also, this page of the book describes the legend of why Chanel cut her hair

short.

IMAGES

Chanel Logo. Digital image. BodyExotics. Web. 29 Jan. 2010.

<http://bodyexotics.com/images/800px-Chanel_logo.svg.png>.

The world famous and highly recognizable logo of the Chanel brand, as well

as the font used in the brand’s name. We used this image to create our

header, which has Coco Mademoiselle above the Chanel in this image and

Ripping the Seams within Fashion, Society and History below it. The

sponsor, Start Logic, is a web host that provides solutions for global

business.

"Chanel - Runway Photos - Fall 2009 Runway at InStyle.com." Runway Photos -

Spring,

Fall Styles - Designer Central Collections - Designer Central - InStyle. Web.

27 Mar. 2010.

<http://fashiondesigners.instyle.com/collections/photos/runway/chanel/

results.html?No=148>.

This fashion website provided us with Karl Lagerfeld's current designs for

the House of Chanel. It provided us with useful images, which are used in the

photo gallery, in order to further show the legacy that Chanel has passed

onto the modern generation.

"Chanel - Runway Photos - Fall 2010 Runway at InStyle.com." Runway Photos -

Spring,

Fall Styles - Designer Central Collections - Designer Central - InStyle. Web.

27 Mar. 2010.

<http://fashiondesigners.instyle.com/collections/photos/runway/chanel/

results.html?No=21>

This source provided us with present images of Chanel's most recent runway

show. The designs are featured within our photo gallery.

Chanel Spring Runway 2009. Digital image. Fashion Copious. 03 Oct. 2008. Web.

Nov.

2009.

http://fashioncopious.typepad.com/.a/

6a00e54ef96453883401053529659e970c-800wi

A picture of the Spring 2009 runway in Paris and the large facility housing it,

this shows the enormous power of Chanel as a fashion house today. A fashion

source written by John, blogger from New York City, records the most

current happenings in the Big Apple.

Chang, Alice. Karl Lagerfeld and Bear. Alice Chang, 2009. Acrylic. Seattle.

A two-dimensional painting done in acrylic paint by one of our own group

members Alice Chang. This is a rendition of a photograph of Karl Lagerfeld

and his custom teddy bear by Steiff. This painting of the current Chanel

director is done in only select shades of black and grey, colors that were

favorites of Coco Chanel and often used in Chanel designs, then and now. We

used this painting in the photo gallery to show the modern impact of Coco

Chanel.

Columbia, David P. "Social Diary 10/16/06 - Back in the Saddle." Welcome |

New York Social Diary. Web. 27 Mar. 2010.

<http://www.newyorksocialdiary.com/socialdiary/2006/10_16_06/socialdiary1

0_16_06.php>.

This source provided a picture of the inside of Chanel's apartment at Rue

Cambon, Paris. We included it within our photo gallery. David Columbia, the

creator of this website, writes about society and social profiles for Quest

Magazine.

Models in Chanel Spring 09 Show. Digital image. Style Frizz. Oct. 2008. Web. Oct.

2009.

<http://stylefrizz.com/img/chanel-couture-spring-09-black-white.jpg>.

A close look at the models walking down the Chanel catwalk in the spring

2009 show. Their outfits are modern creations from head designer Karl

Lagerfeld, but they retain the silhouettes and aesthetic of Coco Chanel’s

vision. Style Frizz is a blog written by a fashion enthusiast who often reports

the latest runway shows.

What Would Coco Do? Harper's Bazaar. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.harpersbazaar.com/cm/harpersbazaar/images/3c/coco-do-HL-

0909-de.jpg>.

This image is one of Karl Lagerfeld's sketches for the House of Chanel. He

inherited the fashion house a few decades ago and has become a prominent

figure in the fashion industry. We used his sketch to encapsulate the

prominence of Chanel in the modern world. Sponsored by the magazine,

Harper’s Bazaar, this online rendition thoroughly records their printed issues

since the early twentieth century.

INTERVIEWS

Charleston, Beth D. "History of Fashion." E-mail interview. Dec. 2009.

As our research progressed, we needed solid information on the historical

and innovative aspect of our project. We contacted Parsons New School of

Design, one of the most accredited design schools in the U.S. and located in

the heart of American fashion, New York City. Beth Dincuff Charleston,

professor of the History of Fashion at Parsons, responded, willing to answer

our questions on Chanel. Charleston is manager of the Calvin Klein Archives,

and works to create design timelines to maintain classic elements of that

brand. A noted fashion historian, she has contributed to Newsweek and

authored the 19th century chapter of college textbooks among other

achievements. Our interview was crucial in our understanding of the radical

changes Coco Chanel made, her extraordinary innovation in design, and the

freedom of women from the tight constraints of 19th century fashion.

Karbo, Karen. "Karen Karbo: Author of "The Gospel of Chanel"" Interview.

Print.

As the author of The Gospel of Chanel, a well-praised biography on Coco

Chanel, Karbo provided us with many quotable phrases about Chanel as a

feminist. We asked her what traits about Chanel inspired her to write her

book, how Chanel impacted the development of the modern woman, and how

she was innovative as a feminist.

Stolz, Natacha. "Chanel Intern Interview” E-mail interview. Nov. 2009.

When our group was in 9th grade, we were able to view an exhibit of the

senior class’s Culminating Projects. A senior named Natacha Stolz did one of

the most incredible projects. In the summer of 2007, she traveled to Paris to

intern at the Chanel Headquarters, currently directed by head designer Karl

Lagerfeld. As an intern, she gained insight into the modern and current

aspects of the House of Chanel, but also on the significance of Coco Chanel

and her aesthetic. Now a sophomore at the School of the Art Institute of

Chicago, a top ranking school of art and design, she became the subject of

our second interview. As we knew her personally, we felt like she was a great

candidate for giving insight into the modern aspect of Coco Chanel and her

innovations. Mainly, her interview revealed the significance of Coco Chanel

in fashion, and how the current woman would not feel the same about clothes

and themselves had it not been for Coco Chanel’s work years ago.

MUSIC

Piaf, Edith. "La Vie en Rose." The Voice of the Sparrow: The Very Best of Edith Piaf.

1946. MP3.

We used this classic and iconic French song from Edith Piaf, one of the most

respected French singers of Chanel’s time period. Henceforth, we paired this

song with the Time Period/Historical Context page.

Pottier, Elise. "Mademoiselle." Mademoiselle. Mercury Records, 2008. MP3.

We enjoyed the dramatic strings in the beginning of this song, and thought it

was appropriate that the song’s main word and name is Mademoiselle, which

happened to be what most people who were in Chanel’s circle called her.

This tidbit of information was a key to our thesis, as we explain the

connotations of this aspect of Coco Chanel. We chose this song for the index,

to introduce the site and convey the significance of “Mademoiselle”. The

song’s lyrics are also rather anti-men, likening men to old bubblegum stuck

on the bottom of shoes, and it was key to our thesis that Chanel was not

reliant on men.

"Qui Qu'a Vu Coco." Cond. Alexandre Desplat. Coco Avant Chanel Soundtrack.

Alexandre Desplat, 2009. MP3.

Gabrielle Chanel reportedly sang this song when she worked as a small town

performer early in her career, as portrayed in the movie Coco Avant Chanel.

It became a favorite, and she took on Coco from the song as her new name,

abandoning her less privileged past life.

WEBSITES

"Coco Chanel quotes." ThinkExist.com Quotations. Web. Dec. 2009. "Quotes - Coco

Chanel on Bio." Bio. - Shows, Schedules, and Biographies on Bio. Web. Dec.

2009.

<http://www.thebiographychannel.co.uk/biographies/coco-chanel/

quotes.html>.

This biography site has an extensive list of quotes said by Coco Chanel. We

used at least one for every page on the website, to show the audience

Chanel’s distinct and strong voice, as well as her personal opinions on

innovation, fashion, and women. The Biography Channel, a British website, is

a leading source for biographies of celebrities and innovators in history.

"History of 20th Century Womens Fashion | Random History." Random History and

Word Origins for the Curious Mind. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.randomhistory.com/1-50/003clothing.html>.

This website described the changes in women's fashion throughout the 20th

century. This helped us connect Chanel's contributions with the broader

evolution in fashion. Random History is created by a group of history

enthusiast. They report on an extensive section of history and facts on

random topics.

"Karen Karbo RapSheet." Karen Karbo. Web. 29 Mar. 2010.

<http://www.karenkarbo.com/Default.aspx?Page=RapSheet>.

Biography of one of our interviewees, well known author Karen Karbo. We

used this site for her biography in our interviews page.