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This article was downloaded by: [The University of British Columbia] On: 22 April 2013, At: 00:25 Publisher: Routledge Informa Ltd Registered in England and Wales Registered Number: 1072954 Registered office: Mortimer House, 37-41 Mortimer Street, London W1T 3JH, UK The Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology Publication details, including instructions for authors and subscription information: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/rtap20 Cloths of Civilisation: Kain Timur in the Bird's Head of West Papua Jaap Timmer Version of record first published: 03 Aug 2011. To cite this article: Jaap Timmer (2011): Cloths of Civilisation: Kain Timur in the Bird's Head of West Papua, The Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology, 12:4, 383-401 To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/14442213.2011.587020 PLEASE SCROLL DOWN FOR ARTICLE Full terms and conditions of use: http://www.tandfonline.com/page/terms-and- conditions This article may be used for research, teaching, and private study purposes. Any substantial or systematic reproduction, redistribution, reselling, loan, sub-licensing, systematic supply, or distribution in any form to anyone is expressly forbidden. The publisher does not give any warranty express or implied or make any representation that the contents will be complete or accurate or up to date. The accuracy of any instructions, formulae, and drug doses should be independently verified with primary sources. The publisher shall not be liable for any loss, actions, claims, proceedings, demand, or costs or damages whatsoever or howsoever caused arising directly or indirectly in connection with or arising out of the use of this material.

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Page 1: Cloths of Civilisation:               Kain Timur               in the Bird's Head of West Papua

This article was downloaded by: [The University of British Columbia]On: 22 April 2013, At: 00:25Publisher: RoutledgeInforma Ltd Registered in England and Wales Registered Number: 1072954 Registeredoffice: Mortimer House, 37-41 Mortimer Street, London W1T 3JH, UK

The Asia Pacific Journal ofAnthropologyPublication details, including instructions for authors andsubscription information:http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/rtap20

Cloths of Civilisation: Kain Timur in theBird's Head of West PapuaJaap TimmerVersion of record first published: 03 Aug 2011.

To cite this article: Jaap Timmer (2011): Cloths of Civilisation: Kain Timur in the Bird's Head ofWest Papua, The Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology, 12:4, 383-401

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/14442213.2011.587020

PLEASE SCROLL DOWN FOR ARTICLE

Full terms and conditions of use: http://www.tandfonline.com/page/terms-and-conditions

This article may be used for research, teaching, and private study purposes. Anysubstantial or systematic reproduction, redistribution, reselling, loan, sub-licensing,systematic supply, or distribution in any form to anyone is expressly forbidden.

The publisher does not give any warranty express or implied or make any representationthat the contents will be complete or accurate or up to date. The accuracy of anyinstructions, formulae, and drug doses should be independently verified with primarysources. The publisher shall not be liable for any loss, actions, claims, proceedings,demand, or costs or damages whatsoever or howsoever caused arising directly orindirectly in connection with or arising out of the use of this material.

Page 2: Cloths of Civilisation:               Kain Timur               in the Bird's Head of West Papua

Cloths of Civilisation: Kain Timur in theBird’s Head of West PapuaJaap Timmer

This article presents a diachronic perspective on the exchange of cloths (kain timur) and

the transformations in their importance over time with social and political changes in the

Bird’s Head region of the province of West Papua. Providing insight into the

transformations in kain timur exchange sheds light on the history of the region, long

characterised by influences from other islands in Eastern Indonesia while simultaneously

displaying distinctly Papuan cultural and linguistic features. The exchange of kain timur

has evolved amid colonial and post-colonial influences such as missionisation,

government administration, education, migration, and the exploitation of resources.

The most prominent current meaning of the exchange of kain timur is the safeguarding

of the moral community in regard to marriage practices and married life. As material

objects kain timur are considered authentic cultural products that mark local identity. In

contrast to other Melanesian art forms kain timur has to date attracted little attention

from art collectors, anthropologists, and tourists.

Keywords: Cloth Exchange; Identity; Colonisation; Missionisation; Post-Colonialism;

Bird’s Head Region; Eastern Indonesia

Introduction

The Bird’s Head (Kepala Burung) region of the contemporary province of West

Papua is at once the westernmost part of the island of New Guinea and the

easternmost sphere of influence of the Indonesian islands on the cultures of Papua:

where Southeast Asia meets Oceania. It may be viewed as Papua’s door to the other

islands of Eastern Indonesia, in particular the Moluccas. From the perspective of the

other islanders, it is the entry point into Papua, not only today but for hundreds of

years previously. While most people in the Bird’s Head live relatively isolated in small

rural patrilocal settlements engaged in gardening and fishing, they are linked to each

other and the outside world in intricate ways. Even far from the coast Eastern

Jaap Timmer is a lecturer and researcher. Correspondence to: Jaap Timmer, Department of Anthropology,

Faculty of Arts, Macquarie University, NSW 2109 Australia. Email: [email protected]

ISSN 1444-2213 (print)/ISSN 1740-9314 (online)/11/040383-19

# 2011 The Australian National University

DOI: 10.1080/14442213.2011.587020

The Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology

Vol. 12, No. 4, August 2011, pp. 383�401

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Indonesia, and indeed the whole of Indonesia, is regarded as a realm of wealth,

power, and magic. With missionisation and colonial administration in the late

nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the Netherlands became a site of power and

imagination. Imported cloths known as kain timur played a role in these

interconnections.

The local Malay term kain timur is used widely in the Bird’s Head and refers to a

set of cultural and social practices involving duties, rights, cloth names, and magic

surrounding the exchange of cloths. Originating from eastern Indonesian islands,

cloth was for centuries imported into west New Guinea in exchange for slaves and

forest products. As I discuss below, there are many varieties of cloth that are locally

distinguished by criteria such as design, age, and renown in exchange cycles.

In the past, kain timur arrived with connotations of power and wealth located in

foreign lands to the west, where powers were assumed to be greater and the people

wealthier. After arrival, they became exchange objects, gained meaning as items for

bride wealth and compensation payments, and offerings to ancestors and other

spirits. The introduction of kain timur had a profound effect on the social structure

and cultures of many communities in the Bird’s Head. With missionisation and

colonial administration, the cloths became signs of backwardness and obstacles to

modern development. In the following few decades, people have held on to their

cloth to preserve civilisation and as a sign of identity

The textiles came into the Bird’s Head as part of the sosolot networks of trade and

exchange that linked the coasts and islands of Eastern Indonesia (Goodman 2006).

Sosolot is a term of uncertain origin, possibly Malay, (Goodman 2006, p. 1) which

Van Hille (1905) points out that the seventeenth century explorer Johannes Keyts

defined it as a marked jurisdiction of a ‘hill or harbour, where a flag was planted and

where no other may trade on pain of death’ (sic).

The main hubs of the sosolot traders were the Seram Laut and Gorom archipelagos

off the easternmost tip of the Moluccan island of Seram, which formed a trade hub

between the Moluccans and the island of New Guinea for over five hundred years

(Ellen 2003). They gained trade prominence because they monopolised trade to

Papua. While groups along the western shores of the Bomberai Peninsula (Onin) and

Kowiai enjoyed trade relations with Moluccan islands across the Seram Sea, west

coastal Bird’s Head communities were oriented towards the sultanates of Tidore and

Ternate.

The Raja Ampat Islands, the western coastal stretches of the Bird’s Head and the

Onin Peninsula were important centres of trade. Representatives of the eastern

Indonesian sultans of Ternate and Tidore appointed local representatives as raja and

kapitan. These agents ensured regular production and collection of plumes, slaves,

massoi bark (Cryptocaria massoia), trepang, (sea cucumber) and other valuable

products demanded by the sultans. In return, commodities including textiles and

beads (manik-manik) entered the interior of the Bird’s Head, the Onin Peninsula, and

the Mimika area (see Swadling 1996).

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Cosmology, mythology, trade, and mobility linked Papuan leaders and their

networks of trading communities to the Moluccas. For example, many communities

along the southern shore of the Bird’s Head belonged to the sphere of influence of the

Papuan kingdom of Sailolof, of which leaders were appointed as tributaries of the

sultan of Tidore. Local myths, origin stories, and explanations of the unequal division

of wealth in the world, portray Tidore and its vassal Sailolof as centres of wealth and

knowledge (Timmer 2000a, 2000b). The raja of Sailolof resided on the island of

Salawati, one of the Raja Ampat Islands situated to the west of the Birds Head. For

centuries, the Raja Ampat islanders, many of whom are Muslim, recognised the

authority of the Moluccan leaders and that the value attached to cloth expressed this

sense of power and authority residing in lands across the Seram Sea.

Trade, travel, and tribute linked the Bird’s Head to a ‘global’ network of external

relations. The southern shores of the Bird’s Head and the Bomberai Peninsula were

strongly linked. South coast Bird’s Head communities are related to regions across

the Bintuni Bay and the MacCluer Gulf and are thus indirectly linked with Seram

(Moluccas). To the east, the Bird’s Head is linked to Cenderawasih Bay and the north

coast as well as to the Raja Ampat Islands. These connections were particularly

intense during the trade contacts between East Asia and Southeast Asia (3,000�4,000

years ago), the spread of Islam (beginning around 1,000 years ago), and the

expansion of the Javanese Majapahit dynasty all the way to one of its Papuan

dependencies in Onin in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The rise and decline

of the Netherlands East India Company’s (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie or

VOC) involvement in the so-called Spice Islands (1602�1799), the emergence of trade

in Birds’ of Paradise feathers to Europe in the sixteenth century, and the spread of

kain timur from eastern Indonesian islands in the region, led to further intensifica-

tion of trade links between the Birds Head region and parts of now eastern Indonesia.

During the nineteenth century, Europeans began to appreciate the beauty of bird of

paradise feathers to decorate hats, and the island of New Guinea was an important

source of feathers (Swadling 1996). Age-old trade posts along the coast of the Bird’s

Head became increasingly important for those rajas instrumental in the collection

and transportation of local products and slaves. The influence of raja on the northern

and western shores of the Onin Peninsula lasted till the 1920s, when missionaries,

Dutch military personnel and administrators, and traders became more dominant

and marginalised the position of the raja (see below).

In modern times, changes have generally occurred more rapidly than in the

colonial and pre-colonial periods. In the post-colonial period a widespread network

of boats and (more limited but developing), airstrips and roads has increased people’s

mobility. The state is now present in many ways: Aid posts, schools, churches, and

mosques now service most areas. A majority of people are Protestant, while Islam

represents an equally strong but much older faith linked to ethnic identity for

communities along the western shores. In the centre of the Bird’s Head and in urban

centres there are Roman Catholic communities.

The Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology 385

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Missionisation, education, and government administration, as well as the

exploitation of natural resources (in particular oil and gas, timber and mining),

have had a great impact. Moreover, contemporary migration from other parts of

Indonesia, either as part of government-sponsored programmes or independently, is

putting unprecedented pressure on natural resources and tends to strain inter-ethnic

relations, while also providing opportunities for marriage, trade, travel, and new

knowledge. The region continues to be characterised by influences from other islands

of the eastern part of Indonesia while displaying cultural and linguistic features that

are distinctively Papuan. It is in this historical context that kain timur is still

meaningful.

The Meanings of Kain Timur

Travels to and goods from the Moluccas linked Papuans with a supposedly more

civilised and more powerful world. Kain timur, part of this link, are endowed with

meanings to the lives of the indigenous people of Papua. Cloths were exchanged for

marital rights, to compensate for transgressions of rules or for deaths in war, and

employed to maintain relations with the dead. As payment for marital rights, the

payment of the first marriage gift is followed by a cycle of exchanges between affines

that take place at the birth of children, initiation, and mortuary rites. The cycle goes

on into the children of the marriage’s generation and into the next generation. Kain

timur are also important for ensuring the reproduction of society by keeping alive

long-distance exchange relations. This intimate relationship between cloth, the

human life-cycle and the reproduction of society, is apparent in other parts of West

Papua, such as the Humboldt Bay and Lake Sentani (Hermkens 2007), and in

Melanesia in general (for example Weiner 1989, 1992, Bolton 2003, and Hermkens

2005).

Old kain timur, imported into the Bird’s Head centuries ago, are connected to

supernatural powers of the ancestors by playing a role in rituals for their worship. In

many places cloth takes on properties ‘connecting humans with the world of spirits

and divinities, and with one another’ (Schneider 2006, p. 204). In some cases the

provenance of kain timur as belonging to one’s kin group, rests on claims that certain

pieces of cloth originate from subterranean sources and appeared from holes in the

earth in times long past. Other cloths were born in sago trees, while yet others were

unearthed from the graves of Muslims in the region. Such cloths are precious and no

longer circulated as a material item, but play a role in spiritual exchanges with

ancestors. These stories deny the origin of kain timur in trade.

Today kain timur are most prominently associated with the past and with the

need to identify with a present that is even more global. Below, I trace the

evolving history of the exchange of kain timur, the transformations in their

importance over time, the related social and political changes in the region, and

then I consider the present significance of kain timur. Unlike most studies of

exchange, this article deploys a diachronic perspective. By providing insight into

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the transformations in kain timur exchange overtime, the history of the region

becomes clearer.

Production and Classification of Kain Timur

While bark cloth and other fibre products were made all over West Papua, at the time

of colonial contact weaving technology was restricted to the village of Sarmi on the

North coast, ‘where small pieces of cloth were made on a simple loom’ (Kooijman

1992, p. 11). Research suggests that the most classic kain timur in the Bird’s Head

originate from the Lesser Sunda islands of Flores, Sumba, Timor, Lembata, and Alor

(Elmberg 1968, Pouwer 1957, Miedema 1986). Women on these islands weave these

cloths; some entered the trade routes to become the possession of men and traded by

men in the Bird’s Head. These classic kain timur are essentially ikat cloths*or parts

of cloths as they fall apart with the years.

To produce ikat (Indonesian, ‘to tie’, ‘to bind’) women apply a weaving technique

that uses a resist dyeing process on either the warp or weft before the threads are

woven to create a pattern or design. The weft must be precisely tied and dyed so that

the patterns interlock and reinforce each other when the fabric is woven. The main

fibre is cotton. Women spin it manually (even today) particularly for textiles that

have a special character. They die thread individually, with the weft being dyed black,

red, or blue. The blue is made from indigo, usually from the leaves of Indigofera

tinctoria and Indigofera suffruticosa soaked and mixed with coral lime. The red is a

mixture of bark and roots of the Great Morinda (Indian mulberry) or Mengkudu tree

(Morinda citrifolia) with the ground up leaves and bark of the Golden Flamboyant

tree (Peltophorum pterocarpum) and pressed candlenut oil as a fixer.

Figure 1 Unfolding a kain timur during a bride price payment in Klamono, Sorong,

1995. (Photo: Jaap Timmer.)

The Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology 387

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Not all kain timur are ikat. Indian cotton prints, European imitations of Indian

trade cloths and woven textiles from South Sulawesi have also found their way into

the Bird’s Head and can be categorised as kain timur. Among the lowest ranking kain

timur are chequered Dutch tablecloths from the 1940s and 1950s. People distinguish

between kain timur not so much in terms of these origins but according to pattern,

colour, age, and status. Dutch tablecloths and cloths made by local people (see

below), even though they approach the colours and patterns of the highly valued

classic cloths, are not highly priced.

Jelle Miedema conducted a detailed study of the classification of kain timur among

the people of the Kebar Valley in the northeast of the Bird’s Head in the late 1970s.

Miedema managed to shed some light on shady and unstable categories of cloths

during a period when people were not keen to talk about cloths because the

government considered them uncivilised and as delaying development (Miedema

Figure 2 Displaying kain timur to be negotiated during a bride price ceremony in

Klamono, Sorong, 1995. (Photo: Jaap Timmer)

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Page 8: Cloths of Civilisation:               Kain Timur               in the Bird's Head of West Papua

1984, pp. 82�3). Kebar people and their neighbours, Karon and Meakh on the Kebar

Valley, differentiate between nine and twenty-six different kinds of kain timur

including Toba, Toba Set, Toba Fiaf, Karok, Karok Far, Cita, Sip (see Miedema 1984,

p. 82, Table 19). Toba is the most valuable cloth for all groups on the Kebar Valley,

and for most groups throughout the Bird’s Head.

A typical Toba with the value of ten barang would be equivalent to six pigs (three

male and three female) and a variety of other items, such as bead and shell bracelets,

large glass beads, a long piece of red, black, or dark blue calico or smaller jewellery

(also trade goods, manik-manik). This is not a standard though; the value of kain

timur varies significantly and depends on the status of the trading partner and the

history and foreseeable future of the trade connections. The value of cloth is assessed

by its age (determined on the basis of colour fading and wear) and the number of

lines of ikat. The more the cloth has faded and the more ikat it has the higher its

Figure 3 Displaying a precious kain pusaka during a bride price payment in Klamono,

Sorong, 1995. (Photo: Jaap Timmer)

The Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology 389

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value. The shape of the ikat lines also features among the assessment criteria. For the

most valuable cloths, mostly Toba, people know the origin and trade history (see

Miedema 1984, pp. 84�7).

In the 1980s some South Sulawesi migrants as well as Papuan women began to

weave kain timur from cotton. This local production process is confined to weaving.

The threads are bought at markets in urban centres such as Sorong and Manokwari.

They are dyed using artificial colours that approach the popular traditional colours,

yet people quickly notice differences in hue. These locally produced cloths enter

cycles of exchange, but present-day local opinion considers that they will never

become highly valued heirlooms as ‘original kain timur’.

Cultural Changes Evoked by the Introduction of Kain Timur

In the Ayamaru Lakes region in the centre of the Bird’s Head, the introduction of

exotic cloths gave rise to an intensification of regional trade with a pronounced

establishment of ‘surplus-manipulating big-men’ (Miedema 1988). Applying a

regional perspective, Miedema demonstrates a centre�periphery model in which

peripheral groups, such as the Kebar, the Ayfat, the Moi, and the Tehit, practised

restricted exchange before being drawn into the system of affinal payments based on

cloth exchanges just before the arrival of missionaries. In relation to the epicentre of

cloth exchange, coastal communities played a role as middlemen providing Ayamaru

with cloths while themselves being subject to the Raja of Onin, the Raja of Arguni,

and the Raja of Kokas. As indicated above, these rajas took coastal people as slaves for

whom they bartered cloth and other valuable objects (Miedema 1988, p. 505).

Miedema attempted to find a conclusion about where kain timur entered the Bird’s

Head and along which trade routes these objects began to affect the communities in

the interior. He concluded that kain timur were introduced into the southwestern

regions of the Bird’s Head around four hundred years ago. Some two hundred years

later, these cloths found their way into the Kebar Valley (Miedema & Reesink 2004,

p. 68) after travelling through the Ayamaru Lakes region from where they were

exchanged until the outer-eastern Bird’s Head groups, such as the Hatam and Sougb

people.

In terms of the effects kain timur, the introduction of kain timur through trade can

be linked to demographic changes and the evolution of new patterns of leadership

(Miedema & Reesink 2004, p. 68, in line with the earlier conclusion of Miedema

1994). Cloths triggered people to amend direct exchange of women for exogamous

marriages to a freer exchange of women for cloth (bride price). Cloths were

exchanged for human lives, a characteristic that the cloth acquired during the process

of entering the Bird’s Head. Traders often exchanged cloths for human labour

(‘slaves’). In the interior of the Bird’s Head, marrying women into other groups

became a strategy to obtain kain timur (Miedema & Reesink 2004, p. 68).

In line with observations by earlier Bird’s Head ethnographers (Elmberg 1968 and

Pouwer 1957), Miedema and Reesink found that the evolving kain timur bride price

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system some four hundred years ago gave rise to surplus amassing ‘big men’. The

most prominent ‘big men’ are found in the Ayamaru region and neighbouring

regions to the southwest coast, that is, along the trade route along which the cloths

entered the Bird’s Head.

Over three decades earlier Kamma advanced an indigenous theory of the

development of marriage systems among Maybrat of Ayamaru (1970). He reported

the account of one his main informants, Daud Salosa, about kain timur. Daud told

Kamma about three successive periods of cultural practice. Initially, people practised

direct exchange of sisters and only paid valuables, such as pigs and birds of paradise,

as compensation for damage due to vendetta and the like. In a later phase, a system of

asymmetrical cross-cousin marriage came to the fore (Pouwer 1957, p. 303). More

importance became attached to payment for marital rights. The last period began at

least four centuries ago and is characterised by increasing involvement in exchange of

slaves for cloths. Kamma called this period the ‘capitalist’ revolution because it

entailed the accumulation of wealth by ‘big men’.1

Kamma and Miedema argue that this indigenous theory of the evolution of a

cultural practice theory neatly explains the increasing competition between big-men

who wanted to establish dominance in the Ayamaru area. This competition was the

driving force behind transformations of marriage exchange patterns. Central to

Miedema’s explanation is his construction of the historical development of an

elaborate exchange system in which big-men began to dominate the exchange of

women to access kain timur. Miedema (1986, 1988, 1994) suggests possible

adaptations of Ayamaru people to accept the emergence of this elite of determined

cloth exchangers, or bobot (Maybrat, ‘big men’).

His analysis places particular emphasis on the changes that allowed big-men to

control women and establish powerful positions in Maybrat society. This mostly

concerns men’s allegation of women as evil, as the keepers and users of lethal powers.

Miedema shows that big-men could thus dominate kain timur exchange, as women

became merely subjects for exchange (in line with Elmberg 1968, pp. 26, 31). For the

reconstruction of historical developments, Miedema’s discussion of ‘a striking

ambiguity concerning the position of women, particularly in the center of the kain

timur complex, expressed in the occurrence... accusations of witchcraft’ (Miedema

1994, p. 136) is only one perspective on witchcraft (evil powers) as a means of male

domination.

Kain Timur Keeping the Balance

During my fieldwork among the Imyan in the Teminabuan area at the south-coast of

the Bird’s Head in the mid 1990s, informants suggested that Maybrat speakers in the

Ayamaru region, drew the Imyan into cloth payments by asking for cloths in

exchange for their daughters. Imyan had to adapt to this because they were eager to

keep up exchange relations with the more powerful Maybrat to prevent them from

raiding for sago and young women. Apparently, Imyan had been subject to

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intimidation by Maybrat to the north, while being raided by sea-faring groups

originating from either the east (Inanwatan) or the west (Raja Ampat). People narrate

how traders from the Raja Ampat region exchanged cloths with Imyan for forest

products and slaves. The cloths they obtained through trade were, informants

stressed, not enough to meet the Maybrat demands.

Significantly, these stories do not concern payments for marital rights or

transformation(s) of leadership; they centre on the importance of cloths in

exchanges for establishing and maintaining relations between na (Imyan, ‘people’)

and also between people and ni (Imyan, ‘spirits) or, in the Indonesian terms

commonly used by Christian Imyan nowadays, between humankind (manusia) and

God. Such stories reflect a concern with inter-group relationships and the capacity

to successfully engage with ancestral, non-ancestral spirits, and since they became

Christians (since the 1950s), with God. They illuminate the experience of changing

moral relationships, both among Imyan and between Imyan communities and the

larger world.

Imyan stories about kain timur also revolve around Bauk, the initiator of a ritual

tradition called wuon. Wuon is central to the Imyan: the tradition is recognised as

providing a rich way of being and an identity for all members of society,

distinguishing them from other groups. Wuon designates a vast body of lore focussed

on communication with celestial beings, spirits, and the dead. During male

initiations involving ritual exchanges of goods, wuon knowledge promotes individual

male status and celebrates a hierarchy based on divisions between those who know

and those who do not know the secrets of wuon. Wuon knowledge is esoteric in the

sense that it belongs to the inner circle of initiated men.

While I have not learned where Bauk allegedly came from, it is likely that he

came either from the Raja Ampat Islands or the Onin Peninsula a few hundred

years ago. Other stories tell of local people travelling to Onin in order to get cloths

and to learn about the situation there. People in the Teminabuan region undertook

these ventures. They wanted to know when trading parties would come to

Teminabuan so that people could prepare slaves and forest products to exchange

for cloth.

Perhaps one of the most spectacular of these accounts is the one that tells of a man

from Wersar who misbehaves in front of a visiting Onin raja because he hopes to be

enslaved and brought to Onin. He is successful in being captured and taken to Onin

where he is put to work in the gardens of the raja. One day he witnesses an Islamic

funeral at which the body of the deceased is wrapped in cloths before it is committed

to the earth. The next night he manages to escape, digs up the buried body, and takes

the cloths. Then he walks to the sea, steals a canoe, and rows to the other side of the

MacCluer Gulf. After a week, he arrives in Wersar where he shows two magnificent

cloths. This hero is still talked about with much exaltation and the two cloths are

safely stored away in an old man’s house and are considered powerful items (kain

pusaka in Indonesian).

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Kain Timur Becomes a Development Question

When colonial involvement in West New Guinea increased in the post-World War II

period, the administration assessed local ways in terms of their goals. From the early

1950s, the Dutch increased their efforts at human and economic develop following

decades of neglect. This led to critical reflection on which aspects of traditional

culture fitted in the envisaged modern world. Hence missionary and government

agents in the Bird’s Head, in particular in Ayamaru and Teminabuan, became

preoccupied with the ‘kain timur question’, that is, that the exchange of kain timur

impeded development. Kain timur was classified with practices like (cargo) cults and

headhunting, as uncivilised and not belonging to a modern world.

To investigate and evaluate how to deal with such practices, the government

employed anthropologists. Especially during the period when Jan van Baal was

governor of Netherlands New Guinea from 1953 to 1958, government anthropolo-

gists reported extensively to the Bureau for Native Affairs in Hollandia which

collected and processed large amounts of anthropological, medical, and demographic

data.2 From Teminabuan and Ayamaru, both missionaries and government officials

reported extensively on the kain timur question and the anthropologists Pouwer and

Elmberg were posted in the region to conduct research on the possibilities of breaking

the dominant role of cloth among the local peoples.3 The data were intended to

provide insights into the causes of the problems that the administration encountered

with respect to economic development of the Papuans.

Elmberg and Pouwer demonstrated that a majority of the cloth exchanges were

performed as part of the wuon ritual cycles and their associated feast houses.4

Typically, these cycles moved between two locations: a sachefra (Maybrat, ‘skull

house’) situated on a hilltop and a sebiach (Maybrat, ‘ceremonial long-house’) at the

foot of the hill. The skulls and bones of the deceased were kept in the skull house and

the spirits of these ancestors were called upon during the unfolding of sacred cloths.

These cloths, glossed in Indonesian as kain pusaka (heirloom cloths), were not

usually traded but were offered to spirits in rituals to ensure a large harvest from a

sago garden or a swift and prosperous exchange of less sacred cloths.

During certain stages of the ritual cycles, guests or trading partners from near and

far were invited to come to a newly built long-house. The guests were given food and

presents to induce them to trade cloth. According to Pouwer, these gatherings

functioned as an exchange: ‘it is here where the heart of the kain timur exchange

beats’ (1993, p. 122, my translation). Before the long-house ritual exchanges took

place, several platforms or stands were raised on which skulls of ancestors of the

organisers of the feasts were displayed. ‘Death, illness, accident, suspicion of black

magic, poor harvest of taro, drought*considered as visitations ascribed to

dissatisfied deceased*get the process of feasts and collective transactions going or

might serve as the excuse for it’ (Pouwer 1993, p. 122, my translation).

In the exchange of cloth in the Ayamaru region bobot assume the exchange

liabilities of their kinsfolk in a system where one, in theory, pays a hundred percent

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interest in cloths for the loan of cloths. Before the Dutch began to influence the

Ayamaru in ways that seriously affected their culture, the bobot was, as Elmberg

(1968, p. 20) suggests, a primus inter pares of small kin groups, a leader of

ceremonies, and a pivot for the ritual cycle. During that time the cloth in the area was

of limited quantity, but high quality, consisting only of the inherited sacred cloths.

During the post-war period of Dutch colonisation increased trade with areas to the

south of the Bird’s Head increased the stock of cloth in the Ayamaru area. In the

1960s informants suggested to Elmberg (1968, pp. 174�5) that previously only bark-

cloth (made by women) had been exchanged and that when these cloths returned to

their first donors they were buried in caves or in the ground where they rotted away.

When ikat cloths became more common ‘hoarding started and the number of cloths

that were demanded in exchanges rose. Now men apparently wanted something more

out of the transactions: access to the pile of cloths’ (Elmberg 1968, p. 175). It became

important to hold more feasts in order to gain more cloth. This can be seen as an

attempt by the people to bring about economic prosperity through this trade in cloth.

Moreover, the increasing availability of European goods, such as rice, clothing, and

torches, made men to seek control over cloth exchange in order to gain access to

money and new goods. Men, according to Barnett (1959), were mostly concerned

with proving themselves to be outstanding warriors as well as wealthy bobot. They

were thus concerned with prestige and were perceived to live in a state of distress.

Dutch government officials wanted them to settle peacefully with their families and

relatives in villages; they discouraged their violent acts. Afraid of punitive measures

by the police, the bobot found themselves deprived of the violent means necessary to

maintain their reputation. At the same time, due to the more peaceful situation,

people were able to travel longer distances and enter relations with people they did

not formerly dare to approach (Massink 1996, p. 496).

This laid the ground for a ‘rapacious pursuit’ (Barnett 1959, p. 1016) of cloth

which increased the prices for marital rights and fines. At the same time the marriage

rate went down and domestic quarrels became common because arranged marriages

were not fulfilled (Massink 1996, p. 493). This was of great concern to the

administration and missionaries who required orderliness and peace to control and

teach.

Van Baal, both Governor and founder of the Bureau of Native Affairs, saw the

evolving situation as an illustration of what he glossed as ‘erring acculturation’

(1960), that is, counterproductive transformations in people’s attitudes to life due to

their confrontation with the Western world.5 He and the Dutch administration in

general thought that such activities as exchanging cloth among the people of the

western Bird’s Head, were hampering the natives’ integration into an emerging

Western state system and modern economy. Most administrators working in New

Guinea at that time were convinced they had to manage a process of cultural

interaction between the western administration and modern economy and the

indigenous cultures. Most did not see this task in a narrow way, rather they saw

themselves as largely responsible for relating the structures, goals and values of Dutch

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colonial administration and modern economy to radically different, if not backward

and uncivilised, cultures of Papuan societies.

Abolishing Kain Timur

The first government official to be concerned with cloth exchange and elite control of

it was Piet Merkelijn, head of the Teminabuan district in the early 1950s. In

Merkelijn’s official report to the Bureau of Native Affairs he reports that bobot in

the Ayamaru region strongly opposed development because these men were more

concerned with maintaining their own position. He suggested abandoning the

exchange of cloths, but at the same time expressed fear of the resulting disruption of

society (Merkelijn 1951, p. 24). As a result, during Merkelijn’s period no decisive

measure was taken. Three years later, in 1953, the Assistant District Officer Jan

Massink began to show great concern about the rapid rise in the value of cloths and

the interest of local men in collecting them in large amounts.

Where the colonial leaders at first bribed influential men with material items

including cloth (and thus entering into the local value system that cloth exchange

brings along), now they wanted to outlaw the exchange of cloth by ordering the same

leaders to hand over all the cloths to the police. Being concerned about establishing a

society where regular labour, punctuality and order reigned, the colonial government

in Ayamaru planned to abolish cloth exchange and therewith the prestige economy

planned and controlled by bobot. However, the Dutch still needed these big-men, as

leaders, to persuade the people to comply with colonial policies. But these men and

others were continually travelling and villages and houses were often left unattended,

as we read in colonial reports (see, for example, Massink 1954, 1955a, 1955b, 1996).

Massink wrote that the accumulation of cloth by only a few ‘big-men’ led to ‘social

abuses: particularly dangerous, for example, was the tendency of bobot to build

around him a group of debtors who then had to work for him, sometimes for the rest

of their lives when they did not manage to release themselves from the debt.

‘Definitely the situation was a matter of disguised slavery’ (Massink 1996, p. 493, my

translation). Moreover, the production of crops in new gardens was not intended to

supply the teachers, missionaries, or government officials, but to maintain and

extend relations with others through the exchanges of cloths. Girls were kept from

going to school because their fathers were afraid that they would not later agree to

marriages that would fit with their father’s cloth exchange concerns (Pouwer 1993,

p. 123).

Alongside these moral judgements, the increasing concern with cloth exchange can

be explained as the result of Western influences and related expectations. This is

illustrated in a case study from the late 1950s. Pouwer notes how one of the raja of

the Ayamaru region, Raja Abraham Kambuaya, saw himself presented with his two

conflicting functions: ‘on the one hand he was a ‘cloth grabber’ in a prestige economy

and on the other he was head of a village in the context of a welfare economy’

(Pouwer 1993, p. 117, my translation). This conflict arose because Kambuaya found

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himself in what Pouwer labels as a ‘kantelend tijdperk’ (toppling era, altering epoch),

a period characterised by many transformations and moral conflicts caused by

contradicting concerns.

Concerns diverged because of the government and mission interference in local

affairs and the local people’s understanding of the changes that these institutions and

the presence of white people brought about. In this confusing period, Kambuaya did

his utmost to ‘cover his bets’ in his play with cloths by assisting the colonial

administration in their efforts to bring about economic development in Western

terms, while he tried to meet the requirements in terms of kinship and payments of

cloth expected from a bobot (‘big-man’). In both contexts, the stake was prestige,

participation, and equality.

In the mid 1950s, Massink urged the people to do away with cloths and lift the rule

that brides and fines be paid with these cloths. In his review of the situation some

four decades later, Massink (1996, p. 493) writes that people’s entanglement in

the cloth exchange was actually more complex than he saw back then. The

government officials saw that the situation was one of marriage payments going

wrong which brought all kinds of social wrongs, including the problem of people not

staying in their villages but always moving in search of cloths. The officials who

proposed the radical abolition in 1954 did not consider that cloths were also

important to life cycles, fertility, and favourable relations with the dead.

During the attempts at abolishing the exchange of kain timur, the colonial officials

received support from the many young men who were supposed to meet expectations

of huge amounts of cloths for a marriage and who feared their subsequent

subordinate position to bobot leaders who financed the marriages (Pouwer 1993,

p. 123, Massink 1996, p. 497). Only a few bobot like Raja Kambuaya agreed that

modern development and the road to prosperity in terms of Western wealth and

health was blocked by the unbridled exchange in cloth. Raja Kambuaya decided that

cloths destined for exchange (kain jalan or wandering cloths) were to be handed over

to the government and that, as urged by all bobot, sacred cloths (kain pusaka)*being

important for ritual*would be stamped and given back to their owners. Many village

leaders and bobot followed Kambuaya. When, during one of the collection sessions,

Massink playfully remarked that the cloths should be burned, people took this

seriously and actually burned their cloths. Though the immediate results were clear to

government officials, who saw that people started building houses in the villages and

returned there and that the birth rate went up, the importance of cloths to the people

of the Ayamaru and Teminabuan regions did not diminish (Pouwer 1993, p. 123).

Indonesian Modernity

When the territory was transferred to Indonesia in the early 1960s, civilising efforts

continued*Papuans were to become proper Indonesian citizens and still had to

prepare themselves for a modern economy. In particular during the New Order

period (1965�98) under President Soeharto, Imyan were regularly and consistently

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informed about the importance of national development and the sincere dedication

of the government to bring them as ‘underdeveloped people’ (masyarakat tertinggal)

or an ‘estranged minority’ (masyarakat terasing) into the mainstream of Indonesian

life. Imyan were often reminded that their ‘culture’ (kebudayaan) and ‘customs’

(adat) deviate in a negative sense from mainstream Indonesian culture and that this

hampers their integration and their development. Like the Dutch government

officials, the Indonesian bureaucrats saw kain timur as matter out of place in modern

times, yet no radical attempt at abolition has been undertaken by the Indonesian

government. Kain timur continues as a central element in many of the cultures of the

Bird’s Head.

The impact of the positions taken by the colonial administration and later the

Indonesian administration towards cloth exchange was to motivate people to

distinguish between the cloth and the modern economy. ‘Kain timur’ became part

of an adat (Indonesian, ‘custom’) tradition of knowledge, while economic develop-

ment became associated with pemerintah (Indonesian ‘state’, ‘government’). Inter-

estingly, Raja Abraham Kambuaya is currently considered by the government to be an

early example of a progressive person who understood that in order to become

wealthy by making money out of raising chickens and selling sago, one must put

aside the exchange of cloths. Many admire Kambuaya’s achievements including his

success in getting three of his children to study at secondary schools and universities.

At the same time, Imyan consider total abolition of the use of cloths unwise

because it would disrupt the moral order of their community. Nevertheless, the

obligations related to cloth payments are increasingly felt as a burden. The burden

comes from the complexity of the game of give-and-take within a network of more

than twenty people, geographically extending over a distance of several days’ walk.

On the other hand, many Imyan value cloth as a symbol of their tradition and as a

marker that distinguishes Bird’s Head people from cannibalistic and penis-gourd-

wearing highlanders (‘Dani’), shell eating and betelnut-chewing Cenderawasih Bay

people (‘Biak’, ‘Yapen’), and anthropophagous south New Guinea people (‘Asmat’).6

With reference to peoples of other parts of Indonesia, the people of the Bird’s Head

see cloth as a symbol that stands for their adat*just as certain dances stand for

Balinese adat and gamelan music and wayang kulit shadow plays stand for Javanese

adat. Wayang plays and Balinese dances have been reconstructed as vehicles for the

expression of national sentiment, the local colour creating an illusion of difference

between the locality and the outside world.

While the cloths are considered authentic and original objects of material culture

by the people of the Bird’s Head, art collectors and tourists tend to see them as

imported cloths that are essentially foreign to the region. Where they are seen as

authentic, like on the island of Sumba (where indeed many of the cloths found in the

Bird’s Head originate), art collectors hunt old pieces that are sold for high prices in

the West, and tourists buy cloths as souvenirs. Perhaps because of its alleged

inauthenticity that disrespects local meanings attached to kain timur, the cloth

exchange has also received little attention from foreign, Indonesian, and Papuan

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anthropologists. As a result, local production of kain timur is solely for the regional

market and no tourist art kain timur are made or sold in shops or at regional airports.

Conclusion

There are a number of important events in the history of the exchange in kain timur

recounted in this article. The first is that Dutch government officials wanted to

abolish the exchange of cloths because of its centrality in the lives of the people they

wanted to involve in modern economic activities. Together with often heavy-handed

missionaries they patrolled the area to abolish kain timur initiation houses and beat

the initiators to clear the way for conversion to Christianity, for new schooling and a

new social order.

The Dutch government officials Merkelijn and Massink were specifically concerned

with cloth exchange and the latter eventually succeeded in motivating big men to put

an end to excessive forms of exchange. Massink, due to his unequivocal condemna-

tion of traditional practices clearly put his stamp on the area and left behind a

profound impression. When discussing missionisation, many Imyan recall him as a

strict leader. Of course, besides their personal style of engagement, during the 1950s

government and mission increasingly affected the lives and concerns of the local

people. In any case, in Imyan stories about this period, ‘Massink’ and certain names

of missionaries appear as icons that epitomise the rigid manner in which the

government officials and missionaries proceeded.

Initiatory rituals were practised until the mid 1960s. Other major rituals have

disappeared within the last three decades, considered as improper in a modern

Figure 4 Papuan women parading kain timur during the celebration of the 50th

anniversary of the proclamation of the Indonesian nation, 17 August 1995. (Photo: Jaap

Timmer)

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Christian society, but this does not mean that people deny the past and present

importance of these rituals. As for the male initiation cult, in particular, former

knowledge and practices are currently considered of great importance to the future of

society. In particular, in the light of widely perceived deterioration of morals, Imyan

are increasingly concerned with the disciplining role of cloth payments as fines to

guarantee the observance of social rules. I have regularly heard people say that, in the

absence of ‘kain timur’, men would commit adultery and engage in illicit sex at will,

and women would increasingly feel free to use evil powers to kill innocent people.

The exchange of kain timur is largely seen as civilising the people, in contrast to the

official state view which, like the missionary and colonial view, regards this complex

of practices as uncivilised.

Acknowledgement

This article is based on research carried out within the framework of the Netherlands

Organisation for Scientific Research priority program ‘The Irian Jaya Studies: A

Programme for Interdisciplinary Research’, financed by the Netherlands Foundation

for the Advancement of Tropical Research.

Notes

[1] See Liep (1998, pp. 260�62) for a discussion of the use of such terms as ‘primitive capitalism’

in the ethnography of the Bird’s Head.

[2] See, for example, Schoorl’s (1993) list of tasks he was expected to carry out among the Muyu

of South New Guinea, and his 1996 essay on ‘the colonial district commissioner as agent of

development’.

[3] Pouwer was a Dutch government anthropologist and Elmberg, Swedish, was attached to the

Ethnographical Museum in Stockholm. Pouwer planned to conduct ethnographic fieldwork in

the Mamberamo-Baliem area but a few days before his departure from Sweden in 1953, his

visa was countermanded. When he arrived in Hollandia, Van Baal advised him to work in the

Ayamaru region (Elmberg 1968, p. 7).

[4] These are bobot feast houses as described by Elmberg (1965, 1968).

[5] See also Van Baal (1948/9, p. 104).

[6] Dani, Biak, and Asmat are ethnonyms that are widely known to Imyan. Often heard

characterisations of these regional others are na mantion (‘cannibals’) for ‘Asmat’ and ‘Dani’,

na aisya (‘clam people’) for people from the islands of Biak and Yapen because they consume

the chalk of shells. I have heard sermons in which Marind people of South Papua are

compared to Philistine Goliaths.

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at 0

0:25

22

Apr

il 20

13