Upload
arvindhanrathinaswamy
View
216
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
1/27
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
2/27
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
3/27
YARN%
%IN&'E YARN% A%%E()'ED YARN% FO'DED YARN%
%*+N YARN% FI'A(ENT YARN%
FAN,Y YARN%FAN,Y YARN%
ROTOR YARN%
RIN& YARN%
-OR%TED YARN%
%E(I.-OR%TED YARN%
-OO''EN YARN%
F'AT FI'A(ENT YARN%
TE/T+RED FI'A(ENT YARN%
)I,O(*ONENT TA*E OR %*'IT FI'( YARN%
,'A%%IFI,ATION OF YARN%
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
4/27
Yarn may be any of the follo"ing
" #umber of fibers twisted toether
" #umber of filaments without twist
" #umber of filaments twisted with more$less twist
" Sinle filament
" %ne or more strips cut by lenth of a sheet of material ofnatural$ synthetic or any polymer
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
5/27
TER(%
%*+N YARN% are made by mechanical assembly and twistin toether&spinnin' of Staple fibres such as cotton, flax,
wool,
spun and noil sil(, bro(en or cut man)made fibres
FI'A(ENT YARN% are made by the assembly of continuous filaments, made from sil( or man)made fibres
A (+'TI FI'A(ENT YARN is a filament yarn made from multiple
filaments, assembled with or without twist.
A (ONO FI'A(ENT YARN consists of only a sinle continuous filament from man)made source.
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
6/27
Two or more yarns which are wound side by side on to same pac(ae,
but without twistin around each other, are called A%%E()'ED
YARN%.
FO'DED OR *'IED YARN% are yarns made by twistin toether Two or more sinle &and$or folded' yarns of the same or different types.
*x+ Ply &two sinles'
,ORD% OR ,A)'ED YARN% are yarns made by twistin toether Two or more ply or folded yarns of the same or different types.
*x+ ,- Ply ord
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
7/27
Twist /irection
Twists or turns per inch
Twist Factor &0'
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
8/27
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
9/27
*ro#erties of %#un! Filament and ,ombination Yarns:
0112%#un Yarns: 2armth, Softness, 3iht 2eiht 4deal for T)Shirts, Sweaters and
5lan(ets
0112Filament Yarns: Smoother, Finer and 3ustrous4deal for linins
,ombination of s#un and filament Yarns: /urable,
*asy care, omfortableSuitable for more applications
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
10/27
Twist
" The purpose of twist is to hold the staplefibers toether
" The twist could be used in different ways toembed different 6ualities to the yarn
" A yarn that is twist balanced will not tend tocurl
" The direction of twist is also important forfurther desinin as this can be used well bydesiners
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
11/27
Yarn t"ist #arameters:
Amount of t"ist is desinated as TP4 7turns per inch, whichAffects appearance and durability of the yarns.
%#un yarn: 3ow twist Soft twist yarns flexible
& to 8 tpi' ex+ 0nittin fluffier soft
9ih Twist 9ard twist yarns smooth
&: to -: tpi' ex+ weavin firm
stroner
Filament yarns: ;sually low twist Pebbly and harsh surface &8$ to 8 tpi' repe fil. with crepe twist
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
12/27
Twist /irectionTwist can be inserted in either
of two directions.
S)Twist+ Spirals run upward
to the left &cloc( wise'
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
13/27
The ma=ority of the sinle yarns are twisted in < direction
S)twist is considered as a reverse twist by the spinner
/irection of twist has no effect on sinle yarns
#ormally the foldin twist is in the opposite direction
to that of the sinle yarns.
5alanced twist is when the foldin twist is approximately
e6ual and opposite to the sinles
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
14/27
Twist factor
The anle of twist is the factor
that determines how
the yarn will behave.
Yarns with a low twist level have a lower anle of
twist, and will be relatively soft, bul(y yarns
Yarns with hiher twist anles will be stron, lean
and hard yarns
%ver twisted yarns will have very hih twist anles>
They will be very hard, wea(er and snarl easily
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
15/27
Ty#ial t"ist fators:
%hort sta#le end use Te3 t"ist fator
/oublin weft ?::)-::
@in weft -::)-::
@in warp -B::)C-::
Doile C?::)-::
repe E::)EE::@otor -E::)CE::
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
16/27
T"ist fator
TanПd
l
l4 1 /
turns #er unit length
d4 56yarn te3
Therefore! tan 7 4 turns #er unit length / 56yarn te3
Turns #er unit length 4 85 56te3
T"ist fator 4 turns #er inh 5 56otton ount
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
17/27
Twist and 9andle" A soft twisted yarn will ive a
fuy texture.
" A hih twisted yarn will
increase the surface rouhness
and increase the rainy
texture accordin to the
bul(iness.
" The direction of twist and
when they are combined may
ive interestin effects.
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
18/27
Twist and 5ul(iness
" The bul(ier the yarn, lesser the twist.
" Finer the yarn hiher the twist.
" 5ul(ier yarn needs lesser twist and so it haslesser strenth.
" Finer yarn has more twists and stron.
" 5ut when the twist is increased after particular point the strenth is reduced dueto the brea(ae of the fibers.
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
19/27
5lends $ Gixtures
" A blend is a combination of two materials at
fiber stae.
" A mix is two materials put toether at a
later stae as strands.
" The texture we et is different from each of
them.
" The desin value of these are hih.
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
20/27
#eed
" The need for blends or mixes are.
7 ost.
7 /ifferent 6uality that each fiber offers.
7 Gore effective usae of the materials.
7 The necessity of different and in between
6ualities and both the 6ualities.
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
21/27
/esin Dalues
" The desin values of such blended and
mixed yarn can be explored to ive an
innovative loo( to the textile" Gore innovative processes can be explored
" The desin can happen from yarn stae.
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
22/27
" Fancy yarns are explorations of the prior
said attributes such as
" Twist
" 5ul(iness
" olor
" Gaterial 7 5lends and Gixes
7 Gaterial&conventional$non)conventional'
Fany Yarns
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
23/27
Darieties
" 5oucle
" 3oop
" Himp" #ep
" henille
" or(screw" ore spun
" Getallic
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
24/27
*hysial #ro#erties and #erformane harateristisof different yarn ty#es:
Yarn type General yarn properties
Staple yarns *xcellent 9andle
Hood coverin power " arded cotton Hood comfort ratin" ombed cotton @easonable strenth" 2oollen @easonable uniformity" 2orsted
" 3inen
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
25/27
Yarn type General yarn properties
,ontinuous filament yarns *xcellent uniformity *xcellent strenth
" #atural an be very fine" #on)synthetic Fair handle"Synthetic Poor coverin power
9igh bul yarns3iht weiht
" Staple Hood coverin power " ontinulous filament Hood loftiness and fullness
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
26/27
%treth yarns 9ih stetchability
ontinuous filament Hood handle overin power
%#eial end use:
"Tyre cord Purely functional
"@ubber /esined to satisfy a specific)"ore yarn set of conditions"abled
"Split film yarn
Novelty yarns:*xcellent decorative features
"Fancy yarns"Getallic
8/9/2019 Classification of Yarns.pdf
27/27
;ariables in yarn #rodution
Type of fibre or filament
/imensional and physical characteristics of the fibre$filament
Gechanical properties of the fibre $ filament
Heneral properties
Yarn production systems
omponents of the yarn and percentaes
3inear density and level of twist
Yarn construction
Texturisation and method of texturisation