Classic Skills for Textures of Hair...PRE-CHEMICAL HAIR ANALYSIS Porosity -To tests for porosity, run forefinger and thumb up and down a couple of strands of hair and notice how much

ClassicSkills

for Textures of Hair

Participant Workbook

Classic Skills for Textures of HairParticipant’s Workbook 2008 1

UNIT ETEXTURED HAIR

THEORY(RELAXERS)

Objectives:By the end of this unit, participants will be able to...

• Become more comfortable with the chemical relaxer service• Learn how to properly analyze the hair prior to chemical

service, and why each step is important• Understand how to select the correct relaxer strength• Understand how a curl rearranger affects the three relaxer

types: Lye, No-Lye and Thio• Learn how to rearrange curls• Learn all three relaxer types: Virgin, Touch-ups and Partials• Learn how to style-finish textured hair

Contents:

• Pre-Chemical Analysis• Relaxer Selection (Strengths and Types)• Base Application• Relaxer Application (Virgin and Touch-up)• Styling Relaxed Hair (Molding, Wrapping, Marcel Hot Tools,

Rolling, and Rodding)• Ethnic Permanent Wave Curl Rearranger

10 MOST FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

1. What is textured hair?

Textured hair is any hair type that does not originate from the scalp with a completely straightcuticle. This would include customers of Mixed Race, Hispanic, or African American lineage.This would also include Caucasian customers with a natural wave or curl in their hair.

2. Can all of these hair types respond to, or benefit from a relaxer service? How does one determine which relaxer strength to use?

Yes. Any customer who wishes to go from naturally curly cuticle to permanently straight cuticlecan benefit from a relaxer service.

Choosing the right relaxer strength is very important. The only difference in the strengths is theamount of buffer solution added to the active ingredient. A Mild Relaxer has more buffers thana Regular Relaxer. A Regular Relaxer has more buffers than Super Relaxer. This means thatSuper would break the hair down faster than Mild.

Therefore, when choosing strength, one must also consider the speed at which one is able toapply the relaxer cream. The slower the application the lesser the strength. Eventually, after allof the buffer dissipates, all strengths promote the same results.

3. What is the difference in a Lye, No-lye, and Thio Relaxer or Straightener?

The difference is the Active Ingredient. The Lye Relaxer simply stated contains Sodium Hydroxide as the Active Ingredient, which is the chemical known as Lye. The No-lye Relaxercontains Calcium Hydroxide or Guanidine as the Active Ingredient, or simply stated no lye ispresent. The Thio Relaxer contains Ammonium Thioglycolate as the Active Ingredient.

4. Can all three Relaxer types be interchanged or overlapped?

No. A Lye and No-Lye Relaxer can be interchanged and overlapped because they are bothhydroxide. However, a Thio Relaxer cannot be interchanged with either a Lye or No-LyeRelaxer—they have 2 different main ingredients. Some manufacturers may refer to the ThioRelaxer as a Straightener.

5. Can a Thio Relaxer and a Permanent Wave be interchanged or overlapped?

Yes. This is the only relaxer service that can be interchanged or overlapped with a permanentwave service. Why? They can be interchanged because they both contain the same activeingredient, Ammonium Thioglycolate.

2 Classic Skills for Textures of Hair Participant’s Workbook 2008


6. What is Base and what does it do?

Base is a petroleum jelly that is applied around the hairline and through the hair before a relaxerservice to slow the chemical reaction on the scalp surface long enough to sufficiently straightenthe hair shaft. It is the body heat escaping from the scalp that is activating the relaxer. Also,apply base on the line of demarcation to keep hair from breaking if doing a touch-up.

7. Can a Relaxer leave a chemical burn on the scalp?

Yes. If Relaxer is applied incorrectly it most certainly can chemically burn the scalp. However ifit is applied correctly it is not likely. Relaxer should never be applied directly to the scalp andBase should always be applied before service.

8. What are the most popular professional brands?

Dudley-Pro-select is the latest relaxer line to hit the market. It is designed to condition the hairthroughout the relaxer process and cuts down on hair breakage. A maintenance line specific toPro-select supports the relaxer.

Avalon-Affirm also conditions hair all the way through the relaxer process and cuts down onbreakage. Avalon is the product line that supports the relaxer.

Mazani is a relaxer line that boasts custom blended conditioners for various hair types. ContactDeb Ryan at Ext. 7899 for vendor education of this product.

9. How are a Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer and an ethnic Permanent Wave system mistaken for the same thing when examining dry hair?

Easy!!! A lot of customers refer to the relaxer as a “Perm”. Also, if an ethnic permanent waveprocess is stopped in the first step and then the hair is styled out like relaxed hair, they look thesame dry. That is the chemistry behind the Thio Relaxer.

10. What are the three steps of ethnic Permanent Waving, also known as curl rearranging?

Step One: Apply Ammonium Thioglycolate cream to new growth and let it process until hair isstraight. Rinse with tepid water for 5-8 minutes.

Step Two: Pat hair dry and separate hair into perm sections. Apply Ammonium Thioglycolatelotion to section as you rod them. Rod each section the same way. When complete add morelotion and process under a plastic cap for 15-25 minutes.

Step Three: Rinse thoroughly for five minutes, in tepid to cool water. Let client lay in sink forthree minutes then blot remaining water from each rod with towel. Apply neutralizer and complete process as usual. Remove rods.

Note: The most important thing to remember when doing Relaxers is…. just relax!

PRE-CHEMICAL HAIR ANALYSIS

Porosity - To tests for porosity, run forefinger and thumb up and down a couple ofstrands of hair and notice how much fluff doing so creates. A lot of fluff indicatesvery porous hair. It also indicates that the hair will process very quickly.

Elasticity - To test for elasticity, pluck a strand of hair from the head and slowlystretch the strand between both hands. If the strand stretches and does not snapimmediately that indicates the hair will be able to expand and change form duringprocessing.

Texture - To determine hair texture run finger through a bulky section of the hairand feel for the amount of roughness on the cuticle. The less rough the cuticle theless processing time needed.

Density - To determine density notice if the hair per square inch is a large, medium or small amount. Very dense hair will take longer to process.

Length - The only time length of hair is a concern is in the event that the clientrequires a virgin relaxer. A Virgin Relaxer on long hair requires more product andtime and therefore the cost of service should be adjusted accordingly.

Amount of Natural Curl - The less natural curl present in the hair, the less processing time needed. The amount of curl should be analyzed at the root. Hairmay be wavy, curly, overly curly, or excessively curly.



RELAXER SELECTION

Relaxer Strengths:

There are two elements that make up the relaxer strength. They are:

1) the amount of __________ present in the formula 2) the amount of __________ it will take for the formula to process

It is the speed of the application that determines the strength used.

Super strength should only be used for partials or hair line touch-ups.

RELAXER TYPES

Suggest a _____________ for clients with:

• sensitive skin and scalp

• good moisture balance

• very little breakage

• wavy to curly hair


RELAXER TYPES

For client changing from a Permanent Wave to a Relaxer, suggest a ________.

This relaxer cannot be used over a Sodium or Calcium Hydroxide Relaxerand vice/versa. It is strictly intended for the following clients:

1) clients who don’t want to grow or cut the permanent wave out of their hairbefore going straight

2) clients with natural hair who may react adversely to a Lye or No-lye relaxer

3) clients who do not need much curl or wave removed to become straight

For all others, suggest a mild _____ Relaxer.


NOTE: A Lye Relaxer, if applied incorrectly, can cause severescalp irritation. However, most of the formulas on the market today, if used with base and not applied directly to the scalp, can be usedwithout incident, It leaves the hair very straight, with a shiny cuticleand a lot of movement.

BASE APPLICATION

• It is necessary to section the hair into four quadrants. Apply Base around theperimeter hairline and generously over the ears. Also apply a little sporadicallythroughout all four quadrants of the hair and along the interior parts (look for lineof demarcation if doing a re-touch).

• Base applied to the interior parts will help keep the hair your not working without of the way. Base applied throughout the hair will slow the expansion of therelaxer.

• It is now the time to apply the relaxer. Feel all four sections and determine whichhas the most density or has the most new growth. That is where the relaxer isapplied first.


RELAXER APPLICATION

THIS SERVICE SHOULD BE DONE WEARING

PROTECTIVE GLOVES.

Virgin Application:

• First apply relaxer 1 inch from scalp and 1 inch from ends. Complete allfour quadrants.

• Next apply relaxer 1/2 inch from scalp and 1/4 inch from ends. Completeall four quadrants.

• Finally, apply relaxer 1/8 inch from scalp and all the way through end.Complete as instructed for Touch-up application.

• Once smoothing is complete, it may be necessary to let the relaxer stand onthe head for a few minutes to complete the process.

• It is not desirable to make the hair too straight or it will fall limp when styling.At that point hair is over-processed. It should only become 80 percentstraight.

• Place palm over crown to check for warmth, hair should be moderately warmto the touch.

• Smooth several areas on the head to see if the hair stays smooth. If it wavesafter smoothing it is not ready. When hair lays smooth to the touch, it is timeto rinse.



RELAXER APPLICATION

THIS SERVICE SHOULD BE DONE WEARING

PROTECTIVE GLOVES.

Touch-Up Application:

• For a Touch-up, using an applicator brush and working from the top to bottom of each quadrant, separate the hair diagonally and apply relaxer tothe new growth. Diagonal partings have more control and will increase speed.

• Stay at least 1/8” inch from scalp. It is only necessary to apply relaxer tothe top of each section.

• Saturate brush completely to enable you to complete three or four sections at a time.

• During this application time needs to be more of a concern than neatness.

• Moving clockwise, apply relaxer to remaining quadrants and then the front and back hairlines.

• Once this is completed, it is then necessary to go back and smooth the sections the same way that the relaxer was applied, apply more if necessary to dry spots.

RINSE, SHAMPOO, CONDITION

Rinse Hair:

Place client’s head in bowl and open the hair up in several places. This willallow you to remove the relaxer quickly. Rinse with a lot of pressure andwarm water for approximately 5 – 8 minutes. Let the water lay the cuticleflat. During the entire relaxing process the cuticle needs to be left as straightas possible, too much circular movement may cause hair to revert.

Shampoo Hair:

Shampoo hair three times with Neutralizing Shampoo or MoisturizingShampoo, either will bring the hair to the proper pH level. The first twoshampoos should be done gently. The third can be done a little moreaggressively.

Condition Hair:

Apply Moisturizing Conditioner and leave for three to five minutes, depending on hair type, and rinse. It is not necessary to deep condition.

Applying heat to hair right after a chemical service only reopens the cuticleand causes undo damage. Some manufactures call for the conditioning stepbefore shampooing to take advantage of the open cuticle.



RELAXERS RELAXERS Important Things to Remember

+ Always wear protective ____________.

+ Examine the scalp for ____________, _____________, ___________, or

redness.

+ Client should be cautioned not to brush or stimulate scalp ________ hours

prior to the appointment.

+ Section the hair into ________ quadrants.

+ Apply ________ around the perimeter hairline.

+ Use an _____________ __________ to apply relaxer.

+ Do not apply relaxer directly to the ________.

+ Shampoo hair _________ times with a Neutralizing shampoo after a relaxer.

+ The two types of relaxer applications are _________ and ____________.

+ Rinse hair for ___________ minutes.

+ Apply _______________ conditioner and leave for three to five minutes.


STYLING RELAXED HAIR

Molding:

At this point heavy gel (brown or clear depending on hair type) should be appliedalong the hairline and hair, then smoothed down flat.

If finished style is going to include a part, accent or very smooth sides, theyshould be placed into their finished state at this time. This is called Molding. Thismeans you style a portion of the hair under the dryer.

Dry the hair under a hood dryer on high heat for fifteen to twenty minutes.

Apply oil-sheen, oil-drops, or a very heavy curling wax, anything containing oil, toadd shine.

Blow-dry (with l600 watts or more) the portion of the hair that was not molded, tocomplete drying and smooth the cuticle.

Curl as desired with hot tools.

Style and finish with oil-sheen spray and oil enriched hairspray.

After hair is cleaned and ready to style, it is necessary to add setting or wrapping lotion or foam generously to the damp hair, even before thehair is combed through. Any tangles will then comb through with little orno effort. Hair should feel slick and wet.



Wrapping:

If the finished style is going to be a loose free-flowing bob, or styled and finishedafter drying, begin by wrapping the hair.

After saturating hair with setting or wrapping lotion, at the crown insert onemagnetic roller, wind it down tightly and attach with two metal clippies.

The roller should be large enough to accommodate the hair’s length. This will eliminate any crimps in the hair and keep it from laying flat at the crown.

Starting behind the roller, begin the actual wrap. To do this, part the hair from thecrown to the nape and comb the hair in the desired direction. This will begin thewrap around the head.

Place another part approximately 1 inch from the first part. Comb the hair to wrap,overlapping the first section, combing in the same direction.

Continue this process until all hair is wrapped around the head. The roller shouldremain in the center of the wrap. All hair should blend in together and lay very flatand smooth to the head.

Rub a small amount of gel over hair and tie a wrapping strip around hair edges tohold hair in place. Dry for about 45 minutes under hood dryer on high heat.

When completely dry, spray style with oil-sheen to loosen set. Starting from fronthairline and working up toward crown, comb the style out and allow it to form abob.

Finish with oil-sheen spray and oil enriched hair spray.


Roller Set:

If the finished style is going to be one of long lasting free flowing curls, begin with aroller set.

Start with damp hair saturated with setting lotion.

The best set for ethnic or textured hair is the brick-lay set. Brick-lays determine thedirection of the front hairline, and if the style is going to contain a part.

The first three rollers inserted will establish direction. Once that is determined continue the set, working from side to side. Insert magnetic rollers in a brick lay pattern down the head until set is complete.

Mold the side slightly with heavy gel to hold them in place while drying. Place clientunder hood dryer set on high heat for 45 minutes, or until dry.

Once the hair has dried, remove rollers and break up the set with fingers.

To style, brush all hair to the back and apply oil-sheen. Push the hair back into placeand begin forming style.




Rodding:

If the finished style is going to be one of strong spiral curl or straw curls, begin byrodding the hair.

Start with damp hair saturated with setting lotion.

Determine what size spirals are desired. If the client likes straw size curls you willhave to use drinking straws.

Beginning at the nape, insert the appropriate size perm rods in the same patternyou would for a spiral perm. Roll very neatly and without end papers.

Once the set is complete apply heavy gel sparingly to front hairline and placeclient under a hood dryer for 45 minutes, or until dry.

Once the hair is dry, remove the rods and pull the curls apart slightly with fingersto style.


Cutting and Blow Drying:

If the finished style is gong to be cut and styled, there are a couple of options forcutting and styling. Textured and ethnic hair can be cut wet or dry.

Wet cuts need to be prepared with setting lotion. The procedure for cutting is thesame as any other hair type.

After the cut is complete, hair can be round-brushed with a blow dryer (1600 wattsor more) for loose styling, or style as mentioned previously.



Styling Hair Containing Weaves:

When styling ethnic hair, which contains weaved hair or extensions, just be careful. Shampoo and condition the hair gingerly.

It will be necessary to saturate the entire head with setting or wrapping lotion orfoam.

Always mold hairs together and blend for a more natural look.

Place client under hooded dryer on high heat with a Mold, Set, Wrap, or Spiral andfinish with oil-sheen spray and oil enriched hair spray.

Gel, setting lotion, wrapping foam or wrapping lotion, oil sheen and ethnic hairspray products are all the products necessary to style finish most relaxer clients.



Definitions for Textured Hair:←____________ As the hair grows the new hair that has not been relaxed

is going to be textured or curly.

←_____________ Periodically one must have relaxer applied to the new

growth area of the hair shaft. This is 60 to 70 percent of

relaxer clients.

←_____________ If a client has never had a relaxer service, or if the

relaxer has grown or cut completely out or the hair, the

hair shaft is in the natural state. Relaxer has to be

applied to all of the hair.

←_____________ Applying relaxer to previously chemically treated hair.

←_____________ The rate at which hair absorbs liquids or responds to.

←_____________ The heat source that activates the relaxer.

←_____________ A medium to large size magnetic roller is inserted in the

crown and all other hair is swept in a circular motion and

lain flat on the head, around and around the roller until all

of the hair is captured through the front hairline.

←_____________ The front line and the area in front of the ear is combed

smooth and flat to the head in the direction it will be

styled when dry.

Place the following answers next to appropriate statements:

Body Heat Overlapping New Growth Molding Virgin Relaxer Touch-up Relaxer Wrapping Porosity

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Definitions for Textured Hair:

ETHNIC PERMANENT WAVE/ CURL REARRANGER

• Begin by examining the scalp for abrasions, irritation, moisture, or redness.Abrasions or irritation may indicate that that the scalp will not withstand anychemical service at that time. Client should be cautioned not to brush orstimulate scalp 48 hours prior to appointment. Moisture may indicate theclient has recently participated in vigorous exercise and needs to go under acool dryer before you proceed with service.

• Next it is necessary to section the hair into four quadrants, and apply Basearound the perimeter hairline.

• It is now the time to apply rearranger. Feel all four sections and determinewhich has more density or has the most new growth. That is where theRearranger is applied first.


ETHNIC PERMANENT WAVE CURL REARRANGER

THIS SERVICE SHOULD BE DONE WEARING PROTECTIVE GLOVES.

Virgin Application:

• First apply rearranger 1 inch from scalp and 1 inch from ends. Completeall four quadrants.

• Next apply rearranger 1/2 inch from scalp and 1/4 inch from ends.Complete all four quadrants.

• Finally, apply rearranger 1/8 inch from scalp and all the way through end.

• Once this is completed it is then necessary to go back and smooth the sections the same way that the rearranger was applied, and apply more ifnecessary to dry spots.

• When smoothing is complete, it may be necessary to let the rearrangerstand on the head for a few minutes to complete process.

• It is not desirable to make the hair too straight or it will fall limp when styling.At that point hair is over processed. It should only become 80 percentstraight.

• Place palm over crown to check for warmth, hair should be moderately warmto the touch.

• Smooth several areas on the head to see if the hair stays smooth. If it wavesafter smoothing it is not ready. When hair lays smooth to touch, it is time torinse.



THIS SERVICE SHOULD BE DONE WEARING PROTECTIVE GLOVES.

Touch-Up Application:

• Work from the top to bottom of each quadrant, separate the hair diagonally and apply rearranger to the new growth.

• Stay at least 1/8th inch from scalp. It is only necessary to apply rearranger tothe top of each section.

• Saturate brush completely to enable you to complete three or four sectionsat a time.

• During this application, time needs to be more of a concern than neatness.

• Moving clockwise, apply rearranger to remaining quadrants and then thefront and back hairlines.

• Once this is completed, it is then necessary to go back and smooth the sections the same way that the rearranger was applied. Apply more if necessary to dry spots.



Rinse Hair:

• Place client’s head in bowl and open the hair up in several places. This willallow you to remove the relaxer quickly.

• Rinse with a lot of pressure and warm water for approximately 5-8 minutes.

• Only rinse the hair; you may shampoo lightly at this point. Do not conditionhair.

Section Hair:

• Section the hair for perming.

• Before rodding each section, the section needs to be saturated with rearranger wrapping lotion.

• Once all the sections have been completed, apply more lotion over each rod.

• Apply protective cotton around hairline and place a plastic cap over client’shead.

• Complete processing according to manufacturer’s instructions.



Styling Rearranged Hair:

• Ethnic permanent waving rearranged styles are worn damp.

• After removing rods saturate hair with styling products specified by the manufacturer.

• To lock in moisture, seat client under a cool dryer for five minutes. Trim hairand style with a pick or large toothed comb.

• Do not use blow dryer or curling irons on rearranged hair.

• To maintain style shampoo once weekly. Shampooing more often will depletehair of natural oils.

• Apply maintenance products and sit under a cool dryer for five minutes.

• Do not use a leave in conditioner on this style in place of maintenance products.

• If the client would like to wear rearranged hair as a straight style, stop theprocess prior to adding perm rods.

• Shampoo and condition hair with moisturizing shampoo and set hair onrollers.

• If hair begins to revert after the straight look has been worn awhile, reapplyrearranger and rod as before.

• Do not use blow dryer or curling irons on rearranged hair.



ETHNIC PERMANENT WAVECURL REARRANGER

Important Things to Remember

+ Examine scalp for ______________.

+ Always wear protective ___________.

+ Apply ________ to hairline.

+ Do not brush or stimulate scalp ___________ prior to application.

+ Section hair into ___________ ____________________.

+ Use an ______________ ___________ to apply rearranger.

+ Rearranger can be applied _________________ to the scalp.

+ Do not shampoo hair at ____________ time, during a rearranger.

+ The two types of rearranger applications are __________ and Virgin

Application.

+ To maintain style, shampoo hair __________ a week.

SUGGESTED READING

• “The Salon Biz”

• “The Truth About Women’s Hair Loss”

• “André Talks Hair”

• “No Lye”



Workshop Evaluation

Workshop ___________________________ Franchise ________________________

Trainer _____________________________ Date _____________________________

What was your overall impression of the workshop?

______________________________________________________________________

The amount of practice/activity was:

1 too much 1 just right 1 too little

The amount of lecture was:


Pace of the workshop was:


What was the most useful part of this workshop?

______________________________________________________________________

What part of this workshop, if any, was not useful?

______________________________________________________________________

What will you do with this information?

______________________________________________________________________

In what areas would you like future development?

______________________________________________________________________

What are your thoughts about the facilitator?

______________________________________________________________________

Additional Comments:

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

Documents

Classic Skills for Textures of Hair...PRE-CHEMICAL HAIR ANALYSIS Porosity -To tests for porosity, run forefinger and thumb up and down a couple of strands of hair and notice how much