Classic Film Fashion

7/29/2019 Classic Film Fashion

1/17

Classic Film Fashion #209: Melvyn Douglas corselet forAs You Desire Me(1932).

It seemed the character I was to play in the film treatment was to be a military officer and, according toFitzmaurice, European military officers of the period in question always wore corselets. Even now whilewe were talking about it, so the director said, M.G.M. specialists were finding out exactly how thosecorselets and fitted. I was to wear a corselet and he, George Fitzmaurice, was going to check each andevery day of shooting to make sure it was on and properly in place under my costume. And he did

precisely that! Whenever I came on set, good as his word, Mr. Fitzmaurice would touch my waist to makesure I had on my corselet. Unfortunately, discharging this directorial responsibility apparently soexhausted him, he was unable to muster a single additional comment about characterization throughoutthe making of the picture.

From Melvyn Douglas and Tom ArthurSee You at the Movies: TheAutobiographyof MelvynDouglas(1986).

Posted 4 months ago
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2/17

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Tagged:As You Desire Me,Melvyn Douglas,classic film,vintage fashion.

Classic Film Fashion #208: Joanne Drus prairie couture forRed River(1948).

Next to outright padding, the best thing to lend gravitas to a womans silhouette are puffed shoulders

gathered to a narrow sleeve, which creates the illusion of broad blades. Joanne Dru makes fine use ofthem in order to stand up to John Wayne and Montgomery Clift. Better to bust up a gun fight with a wideshoulder stance. In prairie petticoat dresses, gingham, full skirts, nipped waist, tidy buttons, shes asimposing and stylish as a ladys countenance can manifest.

Posted 4 months ago

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Tagged:Red River,Joanne Dru,classic film,vintage fashion.

Stellar Vintage #143: Susan Kohners skin outshines her taffeta frock.

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Susan Kohner,vintage fashion.
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3/17

Classic Film Fashion #207: Carole Lombards bridal suit inMr. and Mrs. Smith(1941).

While still in the hypothetical, Robert Montgomery says he wouldnt choose marriage in a do-overbecause it costs men too much freedom. His exact grievance against agency is fairly vague, since hecomes and goes as he pleases and retains a private dude club membership. However, the audience hasa clear illustration of what marriage changes for many women when Carole Lombard pulls her weddingsuit from the closet for repeat nuptials to correct the invalid service. I cant imagine anything hanging inthe closet shrinking so much, she remarks as the maid hoists the sides together. Mrs. Smith

complements her dark suit with the polka dot lapels and a matching blouse, gold fan clips at the neckline,a gardenia corsage and a Quaker-style hat. Yet at the side skirt zipper there are the telltale row of safetypins straining against the fabric. The extra weight bears proof of the marital condition for plenty of womenfar more readily than the official certificate. With genius designs by Irene, Lombard appears instantlyslimmer once she bars the husband with a chain across the door.

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Mr. and Mrs. Smith,Carole Lombard,classic film,vintage fashion.
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4/17

Stellar Vintage #142: Buster Keaton steadies a blade against an onion wearing a henley and crisp chinoswith a wide belt.

Posted 5 months ago22 notes

Tagged:Buster Keaton,vintage fashion.
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5/17

Stellar Vintage #141: Melvyn Douglas sports a dashing moustache and snazzy checked necktie.

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Melvyn Douglas,vintage fashion.

Classic Film Fashion #206: Humphrey Bogart in a varsity cap and jumper forSabrina(1954).

For a small moment, Humphrey Bogart is humbled by his age difference with Audrey Hepburn. Not to thefeature-length degree that Billy Wilder reserved for a middle aged lady such as Gloria Swanson in SunsetBoulevard, where she was made to look like a perverse ghoul for taking up with young William Holden.
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6/17

Still, Wilder allows an acknowledgement in the disparity of years by putting Bogart in the university capand cardigan, so that hes Joe College with a touch of arthritis with an old timey record in tow to woo avery young woman.

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Sabrina,Humphrey Bogart,classic film,vintage fashion.

Classic Film Fashion #205: Robert Redfords wide wale corduroy jacket forButchCassidy and theSundance Kid(1969).

Edith Head redeems the fabric from squaresvilles for fellas. Once the province of nebbish, nerd or theineffectual dude, Head transforms the material into standard masculine livery, the apparel of choice for atough guy, a card sharp and gun slinger. With a leather collar, the oat hued wide wale makes himlook almostas cool as Paul Newman.

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid,Robert Redford,Paul Newman,Edith Head,classic film,vintage

fashion.
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7/17

Stellar Vintage #140: Model poses in a butterfly patterned gown designed by Edith Head, 1941.

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Edith Head,butterfly gown,vintage fashion.

Stellar Vintage #139: Lauren Bacall wears a frock with gold fishnet overlay.

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Lauren Bacall,vintage fashion.
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8/17

Classic Film Fashion #204: Joan Crawfords shoulders and Mildred Pierce(1945).

The first time Adrian saw me he uttered the unforgettable line: You, he said, are a female JohnnyWeissmuller.

I just stood there. What could I do? Five feet, four and half inches tall, with a size twelve hips and sizeforty shoulders!

Well, we cant cut em off, he said finally, so well just make them wider.

That was the start of a look that lasted for more than ten years. Broad padded shoulders, small waist, andslim hips. If a womans hips werent as slim as she would have liked, the shoulders made them seem so. Ithink thats one reason the style caught on so quickly. When I trie d out forMildred PierceI showed up in alittle cotton housedress that Id bought off the rack at Searsbecause that was the kind of thing Mildredwould wear.

The director, Michael Curtiz, had a reputation for being very difficult. It didnt take me long to findout howdifficult. He took one look at me and snarled, You and your damned shoulder pads! reached outin fury, and ripped my dress from neck to hemline. Then he stared in shocked amazement. The shoulderswere still there. They were real. I burst into tears and he strode off the set in total embarrassment. We gotalong pretty well after that.

Joan Crawford in her style guide My Way of Life(1971).

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Mildred Pierce,Joan Crawford,classic film,vintage fashion.
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9/17

Stellar Vintage #138: Cary Grant and Rosalind Russell at the Oscars 1942. Hes in a sn appy pin stripesuit; shes in a jersey dress, pearls and sausage roll hair.

Posted 5 months ago

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Tagged:Cary Grant,Rosalind Russell,vintage fashion.
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10/17

Stellar Vintage #137: Eve Arden in a gem-stem branch patterned hat brim and ruffled blouse under awaistcoat. Lady antlers for an imperious turn.

Posted 5 months ago

Tagged:Eve Arden,vintage fashion.
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11/17

Stellar Vintage #136: Carole Lombard in a rocket emblem knit. Shes pure TNT.

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12/17

Stellar Vintage #135: Claudette Colbert in a metallic jacquard gown.

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13/17

Classic Film Fashion #203: Joan Crawfords wardrobe discussions and resignation forWhat EverHappened to Baby Jane?(1962).

She wanted to wear her own negligees and dressing gowns. The negligees were low -cut and revealing,nothing an invalid or a recluse would wear. I managed to talk her out of that by saying they were toolovely and new, that her character should only wear clothes that looked old and dated. Afterall, she wascrippled, and her sister, Jane, hated her so much she wasnt about to go to expensive stores to buy

clothes for her. Joan agreed on that, and then we discussed the day wear. The dresses she wanted towear were short. They were supposed to show off her famous legs. But again I explained that hercharacter had been in a bad automobile accident and, having been an ex-movie star, Blanche was vainand would never want to show off her disfigured legs. She went along with that, and I designed two high-necked nightgowns for her, a peignoir, and a flowing monks-robe type of dress, which Joan insisted onwearing with a belt to show off her waist.

When it was her turn to test her wardrobe forBaby Jane, Joan gave a full performance. The camera wason a track, said Bob Gary, the script supervisor. Aldrich wanted to see how every costumephotographed and what the makeup looked like. You started full-shotthen you dollied in from head to
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14/17

toe. By the time the camera got to Joans face, she was crying. She was wearing the dress she wassupposed to die in at the beach, so she must have concentrated on that, and the tears began to fall. Sheis the only person I had ever seen who cried at her own wardrobe tests.

Shaun Considine interviews costume designer Norma Koch and camera man Bob Gary regardingCrawfords attire for the film onJoan and Bette: The Divine Feud. They missed the point that Ms.Crawford does not go gentle into that good night. The lady always wanted to look her best onscreen.

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Tagged:What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?,Joan Crawford,classic film,vintage fashion,Norma Koch.

Classic Film Fashion #202: Bette Davis ensemble for running errands as Jane Hudson in What EverHappened to Baby Jane?(1962).

The outfit that Bette wore in public, when she drove to downtown L.A. to place her show -business ad inthe newspaper, had to be big Janes idea of sexy, said Koch. The dress had a see -through top, whichclearly showed her grayish-white brassiere straps. It also had chipped pearl buttons down the front. Ideliberately made the dress a half-size too small, so she would look like one of those old chorus girls

coming apart at the seams.The accessories were equally tawdrya black waist cincher, a black velvet beret with a zircon clip, an oldfox fur piece she pulled out of the closet, and for her feet, she wore the classic Joan Crawford chas e-me,fuck-me pumps.

Yes, said Koch with humor, the shoes were the final touch. We tried various styles with the outfitsome with stiletto heels, some were slingbacks; then someone, Im not sure if it was Bette said, Why notget a pair of those old ankle-strap shoes, the ones Crawford used to wear in the forties? We found a fewpairs in the wardrobe department at Warners. Im not sure if they were Joans, but they fit Bette perfectly.

Shaun Considine quotes costume designer Norma Koch about her Oscar winning work for the film inhis engrossing Joan and Bette: The Divine Feud.

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Tagged:What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?,Bette Davis,Norma Koch,classic film,vintage fashion.
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15/17

Stellar Vintage #134: 1940s halo hats.

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16/17

Stellar Vintage #133: Debra Paget cuddles with a monkey in a scallop-lace frock.

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Tagged:Debra Paget,vintage fashion.

Classic Film Fashion #201: Alfred Hitchcock reserves the skirt suit as identikit for celluloid ladies in RearWindow(1954), Vertigo(1958) and The Birds(1963).

Many articles have been written about the auteurs predilection for icy blondes, yet another thing theladies have in common aside from towheadedness is their fondness for wearing skirt suits. Grace Kelly,Kim Novak and Tippi Hedren all appear in ensembles with minor variation, say, with a little alteration tobuttons, lapel size or skirt length. Kelly and Hedren even wear nearly the exact shade of sage
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17/17

green. Must be because a lady in a skirt suit means business. Its a visual shorthand for competence andsocial position, a woman were supposed to care about.

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Tagged:Rear Window,Vertigo,The Birds,Hitchcock,Grace Kelly,Kim Novak,Tippi Hedren,classic film,vintage

fashion.
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Classic Film Fashion