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Persistent link: http://hdl.handle.net/2345/3074 This work is posted on eScholarship@BC, Boston College University Libraries. Boston College Electronic Thesis or Dissertation, 2013 Copyright is held by the author, with all rights reserved, unless otherwise noted. Charlie's Chocolate Economy: The Rise and Development of Sustainable Chocolate in the Modern World Author: Christine Kim

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Page 1: Chocolate in the Modern World Rise and Development of

Persistent link: http://hdl.handle.net/2345/3074

This work is posted on eScholarship@BC,Boston College University Libraries.

Boston College Electronic Thesis or Dissertation, 2013

Copyright is held by the author, with all rights reserved, unless otherwise noted.

Charlie's Chocolate Economy: TheRise and Development of SustainableChocolate in the Modern World

Author: Christine Kim

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© Christine Kim 2013

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ABSTRACT

From its first use by the Olmecs in the ancient Americas to its proliferate presence

in modern foods, drinks, and snacks, chocolate has always been a popular commodity. Its

historical development from bean to drink to bar is both complex and fascinating, and yet

this favorite sweet of both children and adults alike carries a darker side that colors its

popularity. As the past few decades have shown, sustainable and ethical trade has become

an increasingly viable approach by chocolate and cacao companies in response to the

popular outcry against the injustices that riddle the cacao economy.

OBJECTIVES. In this paper, I use the Worlds of Food framework of Kevin Morgan,

Terry Marsden, and Jonathan Murdoch to examine the rise and development of a “moral

economy” in chocolate from its beginnings as individual moral outcries to the organized

efforts that contribute to the sustainable world cocoa economy today. METHODS.

Following this historical analysis, I present the myriad problems, challenges, and

obstacles currently faced by the world of chocolate by presenting and critiquing various

case studies of sustainability models promoted by players in the cocoa economy.

RESULTS. I find the existence of a cycle of compromise between a sustainable agenda and

a profiteering, business-as-usual agenda in the world of chocolate. In conclusion, I

suggest practices that might further enable the successful mainstreaming of ethical

chocolate for a truly sustainable world cocoa economy.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This thesis paper would not have been possible without the advice, critique,

encouragement, and simple presence of key people. Without any of you, I would be stuck

with nothing but a title and a dream, and so with all sincerity I say, “Thank you so, so

very much!”

Professor Brian J. Gareau, thank you for your clear advice and guidance of my half-

baked ideas, for your patient editing of my 120-plus page paper, and most importantly,

for your constant encouragement that calmed my worry storms and helped me persevere.

Professor Nicole Barnes, thank you for your extensive knowledge of formatting and

your willingness to be a second editor. I still cannot believe you said, “Yes,” even after

hearing how long the thesis was.

And finally, to my lovely sisters who have been the greatest examples of love in

action to me: Jenny Hwang and Connie Bahng, you ladies are the BEST study partners

and support group a woman could ask for! Jenny, thank you for commiserating with me

those long nights of thesis writing—we had several sessions of insanity I’ll fondly

remember. Connie, the same goes for you! Thank you also for staying up with me as I

redlined over my case studies; you redlined over your graduate school and job

applications, just so I wouldn’t feel alone. Thank you, my friends.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . i TABLE OF CONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1.1 Overview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 CHAPTER TWO: THEORY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2.1 Worlds of Production. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2.2 Worlds of Food. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 2.3 The Neo-liberal Economy versus the Moral Economy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 CHAPTER THREE: HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 3.1 From the Aztecs to the Spanish Empire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 3.2 Entering the first World of Production: the World of Intellectual Resources . . 21 3.3 Rise and Dominance of the Industrial World. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 CHAPTER FOUR: HISTORY OF “ETHICAL” CHOCOLATE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 4.1 Paternal Capitalism in Europe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 4.2 The United States: Paternalistic Capitalism within the Gilded Age. . . . . . . . . . 34 4.3 Increasing Competition and the Rise of Unions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

4.4 The Reaction of the Interpersonal World: Growing a Moral Economy in the Midst of a Volatile Global Cocoa Market. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 4.5 Two Worlds of Chocolate: Mainstreaming the Fair Trade Movement. . . . . . . . 47 4.6 Worlds Apart? The Thinning Lines of Separation Among the Worlds of Production. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

CHAPTER FIVE: CHALLENGES FACING THE MORAL ECONOMY TODAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 5.1 Case Study: Fair Trade in Chocolate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 CHAPTER SIX: CASE STUDIES OF “SUSTAINABILITY” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 6.1 International Organization Case Study: The ICCO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 6.1.1 Model of Sustainability. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 6.1.2 Analysis of Sustainability Model. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 6.2 MNC Case Study 1: Hershey Company. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 6.2.1 Model of Sustainability: The Market World. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 6.2.2 Analysis of Sustainability Model. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 6.3 MNC Case Study 2: Nestlé. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 6.3.1 Model of Sustainability: The Market World. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 6.3.2 Analysis of Sustainability Model. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 6.4 MNC-Acquisitioned Company Case Study: Green&Black’s/Cadbury/Kraft . . 94 6.4.1 Model of Sustainability: The Market World. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 6.4.2 Analysis of Sustainability. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

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6.5 Mainstream Alternative Chocolate Case Study: Divine Chocolate. . . . . . . . . . 98 6.5.1 Model of Sustainability: The Interpersonal World. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 6.5.2 Analysis of Sustainability. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 6.6 Niche Market Alternative Chocolate Case Study: Taza Chocolate. . . . . . . . . 104 6.6.1 Model of Sustainability: The Interpersonal World. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 6.6.2 Analysis of Sustainability. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 CHAPTER SEVEN: TRENDS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 7.1 Conscious Consumerism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 7.2 Corporate Consolidation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 CHAPTER EIGHT: CHARLIE’S CHOCOLATE ECONOMY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 8.1 Sustainability 3.0: Creating a Value Chain Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 8.2 CocoaMAP: A Step Toward Charlie’s Chocolate Economy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 8.3 Charlie’s Chocolate Economy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 BIBLIOGRAPHY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

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Page 14: Chocolate in the Modern World Rise and Development of

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Page 15: Chocolate in the Modern World Rise and Development of

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Page 22: Chocolate in the Modern World Rise and Development of

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