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TECHNICAL CONSTRUCTION, MODELING AND COMPLETING

TECHNIQUES OF JEAN CLOTHES FOR CHILDREN, WOMEN AND MEN

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Foreword

This textbook was created as a result of the cooperation of the School of Textile and Leather Design from Novi Pazar, as project coordinator and co-applicant of the Higher Textile Vocational School of Design, Technology and Management in Belgrade, Serbia, Association of Textile and Leather Schools of Serbia, Maribor High School of Design Slovenia, Bornova Mimar Sinan Vocational high school, Izmir from Turkey and Bornova Ataturk Mesleki Ve Teknik Anadolu Lisesi, Izmir from Turkey and funded by Erasmus + project number 2018-1RS01-KA202-000435 strategic partnerships. The name of the project is Jeans Roads.

This textbook is intended primarily for high school students and college students, and can be of great help to designers and people who are professionally engaged in the business. The textbook is divided into four chapters.

The first chapter gives only some basic knowledge about jeans clothing and its processing, as well as tables and designation of sizes of jeans clothing. Other chapters are about designing, modeling and completing children, men's and women's denim clothing.

I would like to express my sincere gratitude to the colleagues of the professional asset of the textile profession of the Novi Pazar Textile and Leather Design School who made a significant contribution to the development of this textbook.

With the hope that this textbook will contribute above all to the acquisition of the knowledge and skills of students in the fashion industry, we are pleased to present the textbook to students, students, colleagues and the public.

Septembar, 2019. godine. Dr Mirjana Reljić, Prof. s. s.

Dr Šaban Muratović, Prof. s. s.

Dr Mesud Martinović

Mag. Lik. Umet. i dipl. Ing. Cvetka Hojnik,

Mag. Teks. The. Ksenija Plazi,

Dipl. Ing. Meho Camović

Dipl. Ing. Ramiza Camović

Dipl. Ing. Nataša Marjanović

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Dipl. Ing. Marina Mihajlović

Uni. Dipl. Ing. Alenka Lukić

Ing. Nedžib Papić

Ing. Enisa Nokić Ing. Nermin Terzi

Ing. Hulya Tunay,

Ing. Elif Eda Turan

Ing. Ayse Sanda

Ing. Hulya Unal

Reviewers:Doc. dr. sc. Samir Pačavar

Dipl. Ing. Gordana Balović

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INTRODUCTION

The textbook you have developed has been developed as part of an Erasmus + project called "Jeans Roads" by KA2 -Strategic partnerships for VET No: 2018-1-RS01-KA202-000435.

The manual is intended for all students, students, teachers, professors as well as all organizations involved in the structural preparation and production of jeans clothing. The manual relies on the principles, tubes and outcomes of a structural apparel preparation program. Through the proposed teacher education materials and guidelines for successful implementation, the purpose of this project is to assist high school teachers as well as all stakeholders involved in the process of constructing jeans clothing.

The project focuses on strengthening the skills and competences of education workers and related workers in the economy.

The textbook consists of proven models and is divided into the structural preparation of children, women's and men's jeans clothing.

All models are made to the applicable European Standard SRPS EN 13402-3, with size labels in centimeters and inches.

The goal is to improve the skills of current and future denim clothing manufacturers and teachers in high schools, colleges and colleges.

The innovation of the project is reflected in the cooperation of all partners in the project on the development of a textbook. They will be used simultaneously as teaching aids in secondary vocational and higher education institutions in the partner countries of the project, and will be used at the same time as the manual for professionals in manufacturing companies in jeans , especially for the modeling and construction of clothing made from this fabric.

Project partners were selected based on past experience in the field of garment design and production and joint collaboration in various activities, as well as on the competencies and previous results of the partners in the field relevant to the project implementation. All project partners have years of experience in various projects in the field of textile and apparel production.

The purpose of the manual is to improve, use and bridge the knowledge necessary for the quality construction of tailor made fabrics for denim clothing.

We are sincerely convinced that the materials produced as part of this project will help everyone who participates in the educational process, especially those who are really dedicated to it.

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1. CLOTHES MADE OUT OF JEANS

Jeans clothing is clearly a global phenomenon. Its presence is in almost every country in the world and in many of them has become the most common casual clothes for everyday to wear.

Some studies have shown that the number of people wearing jeans pants ranged from 34% to 68% in randomly selected streets in Istanbul, London, Rio Manila, Seoul and San Francisco. This suggests that soon, at any time, more than half of the world will be carrying this product.

Although there are many other global forms ranging from food such as Coca-Cola to automobile brands, the claim is that clothes made out ofjeans are universal and present in a very unique way. In the United States, the average American owns 8.3 pairs of jeans and in the UK more than half of adults usually wear jeans [1].

This manual will make a significant contribution to improving the knowledge and skills of many manufacturers of this type of garment (clothing), as well as to all institutions involved in the education of professional staff for structural preparation of clothing.

1.1. History of jeans clothing

For the first time a fully made jeans were made in Genoa for the needs of sailors. These were pants for every purpose. They could be worn dry or wet, and if needed sailors could easily roll up them into ¾ pants or shorts. The beacons are in seawater, attached to the boat so that they become white from the salt water over time. Supposedly, the origins of the word “jeans” come from here. From Italy, the story of the most worn item moves to France to the city of Nîmes, where denim was first made, a word created by the factory where it was made, de Nîmes. From Europe, jeans travel to America, where in 1970 the real clothing revolution will begin.

We are well aware of all Levi Strauss (aka Loeb Strauss) came to America in 1853 as an immigrant from Germany. In 20 years, Levi has become a successful and recognized businessman. But Mr. Levi is not credited with making jeans. One in a series of Levi's customers was a Latvian, tailor Jacob Devis (aka Jacob Youphes) who constantly ordered large quantities of material from Levi Strauss & Co. for the purposes of his workshop. Jacob designed the jeans we know today by accident. Faced with the problem of a man constantly tearing pockets on denim pants, he put the threads on the corners of the pockets of metal thread and buttoned his jeans to make them more durable. These pants immediately became a hit to the customers. The savvy Jacob knew that such a good product should be immediately protected from theft and

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plagiarism. The only solution was to apply for his patent, but he didn't have the $ 68 he needed to protect the patent. Jacob writes a letter to Mr. Strauss urging him to become partners, which he immediately accepts.

Soon, all the working people buy jeans from Levi Strauss & Co., and Jacob is hired by Levi to be the main production man at the San Francisco factory. The story of their endurance is spreading very quickly, and in 1886 a brand was shown in the form of two horses pulling a pair of jeans on a leather label sewn on the back. It's amazing to imagine that a pair of lefties cost $ 1.25 at the time.

Around 1890, this type of pants was called 501, and that name has been kept to this day. After the expiration of the patent, when it became publicly owned, many manufacturers begin to produce jeans modeled on Levi's. In the 1950s, jeans clothing became the hallmark of youth protests against distress, becoming "fine children in workers' pants." Some cinemas and restaurants, at the time, refuse to welcome guests in jeans while students who come in jeans are thrown out of class. In the 1960s, jeans became acceptable, and as early as the 1970s it experienced a real boom in America. Hippie culture dyed denim clothing, usually in psychedelic patterns, while in eastern countries, denim represented Western decadence, and was an exclusive commodity that was difficult to obtain. In the 1980s and 1990s, every resident of America averaged seven pairs of jeans. In the 1980s, denim clothing became a "high fashion" commodity, so jeans with labels from many designers could be found. Designer Elio Fiorucci first introduced fashion jeans in 1970.

Although denim never went out of fashion, there was a decline in the production of denim clothing in the 1990s. The parents of the teenagers at the time were still fascinated by jeans. As it is well known that no teenager wants to look like a parent, sales of the original cut of denim clothing were on decline. However, this in no way affects the further development of jeans, but only the need and emergence of new patterns and styles. For the first time since the creation of Jeans, Levi Strauss & Co. is in trouble, eleven factories in America were closed. This crisis lasts until the summer of 1999 when Tom Ford throws out his jeans designs in his own way, at an cost of 3715 $ for a pair of jeans. After that, jeans have been thrown by Chanel, Dior, Chloe and Versace on the runway, and you could find it in the form of bedding, furniture covers or any other useful items. Today, jeans are used in a million ways. The most famous are the prewash, introduced by Jack Spence for Lee, then the stone-wash invented by François Girbaud, as well as the treatment of sand jeans, invented by Italian manufacturers in 1988. Of course, it goes without saying that you can also buy jeans containing synthetic materials, as well as jeans with a mixture of wool and flax. As a luxury commodity, those with a mixture of silk and cashmere were also in sale. In recent years, "dirty jeans" have emerged as an unavoidable piece of urban outfit, and available are gold or sprinkled with precious or semi-precious stones.

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Most Americans do not iron their jeans, they are wrinkled, with stains and holes. It is strange to them that Europeans iron their jeans, especially when they encounter some specimens of Europeans' clothing from the west, which iron them as elegant pants.

There is not much to say about wearing jeans. It is worn by everyone, from princes and princesses, to street clovers, through young girls, who seek their identities through their pair of jeans. Today, you can buy a million different models of jeans pants, from the new ones for a few Euros, through the famous Diesel ones. Of course, Lewis also kept track of the development of jeans and again introduced the novelty, jeans that follow the natural body line of "engineered jeans".

One should not forget about the Jeisucompany of Japanese manufacturer Yamane-san. In the beginning, the gentleman named his factory Evis. Levis sued him but lost the lawsuit. Mr. Yamane did rename his factory toEvisu, but he bought all the vintage Levis machines from the 1950s, Rolls Royce's of sewing, and made pure "vintage" jeans. Each pair of Evisu jeans is handcrafted from 100% pure cotton, dyed with genuine natural indigo and hand-stamped with an Evisu sign on the back pocket, which is Yamase-san's signature. Evisu's millennium natural is also mentioned as a special onespecial, one hundred pairs of jeans with buttons and a twenty-two-carat gold sign, priced at $ 1,200.

In modern dressing jeans clothing is an indispensable item, it is important to just find a suitable shape. At the ball you can bring crinoline made out of denim, beach denim hot pants, and on a first date pair of skinny jeans [2].

1.2.Manufacture of jeans clothing

Garments can be made in a craft and in a industrial way. The craft method involves the creation of models tailored to the body of a particular person and the most common reasons why it is approached by this method are the body's non-conformance to the standard clothing sizes and the special requirements of the buyer. In the industrial way of producing garments, the order of performance of works is different and in its realization a greater number of persons participate in a precisely defined division by stages of production, using appropriate means for work. The industrial production of clothing can be done for a known buyer or for the free market.

In the first case, the customer has precisely defined requirements as well as appropriate standards regarding the appearance of the model, the choice of basic and auxiliary material, as well as the method of manufacture.

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If a product is made for the free market, it all starts with gathering ideas and information, using literature, visiting fairs and fashion shows, as well as using the Internet, while simultaneously examining and analyzing the market.

Creators and designers with their teams create model collections, opting for a specific color palette, style and line, as well as the type of basic and auxiliary material that will be used in the creation of a particular model. Conceptual designs are realized through sketches of models, by depicting models on a figure of the human body.

The technical sketch of the model is a precise representation of the appearance of the model with all the accompanying details.

The model description, through short text, provides information on the choice of material, the appearance of the front and back of the model, the length of the model, the sleeve shape, the type and position of the seams, and details such as the number and type of holes, the method of clasp, the appearance of the collar, shape and size of pockets etc. The description of the model should also include information on the built-in accessory.

Regardless of which of these methods is produced, the model should attract the customer with its appearance, purpose, quality and price, which is best viewed at fashion shows.

The term construction of clothing means the drawing of sketches on which the main and auxiliary lines, as well as end points, are constructed, modeled, multiplied and completed with the cut of the garment.

1.2.1. Structural preparation of jeans clothing

Structural preparation is a part of technical preparation that has a very complex and responsible role, and the jobs it engages in are diverse, demanding and highly professional, thus achieves better and more efficient work. This process can be performed on a CAD / CAM system that allows shorter production time for all jobs, including technical preparation jobs, from the design of the cut to the fitting of the cut-outs. The advancement of modern technology has enabled higher product quality, better and bigger production or productivity and overall greater cost-effectiveness [3].

1.2.1.1. Construction of model cut

Modeling involves constructing a basic size using principal, ancillary, and control measures. Also, the patterns of earlier garments can be used to construct the basic model.

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The starting criteria for the construction of the model are the body dimensions, which can be:

takenon the body, measures calculated over defined forms and measures taken from size tables..

Precise measures are required for the construction of a single cut, which is the basis for good fabrication of one garment. To make garments in a crafty way, these measurements are directly measured on the body, and at the same time they can be calculated using formulas. Regardless, symmetry should also pay attention to the figure of the human body.

Measures for designing clothes can be grouped into:

Main measures: has to be measured on the body; Auxiliary (help) measures: That can be measured or calculated; Auxiliary measures: to be calculated exclusively (only).

The main dimensions, without which no cut can be constructed, should always be measured on the body. Auxiliary measures should be taken on the body according to the instructions given and then compared with the measurements obtained by calculation in one of the measures calculation tables. In this way, it is easy to identify possible deviations from the body, which might otherwise be overlooked. In addition, the calculated ancillary measures offer the possibility of verification, as measurement is sometimes mistaken. This is the case, for example, when measuring back length or back width. In particular, calculated measurements should be used when measuring back length [3,4].

For mass production of clothing, measurements are taken from standard tables.

The correct taking of the measures is shown in picture 1.

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Picture 1. – Proper way of taking measures

1.2.1.2. Cutting modeling

Modeling is the process by which the basic construction adapts to a given model sketch. In modeling, the shapes of structural parts are changed, the new stitches are opened or the existing ones are closed, the stitches are moved, the material for pleat is added, the pieces are expanded and cut to finish the new model of the garment. It facilitates the creation of a new model, contributes to the shortening of design time, since we do not have to do the basic construction for each new model, but to make cuts (remodel) using the basic construction or about the same model [3].

1.2.1.3. Completing cuts

Completing stitches are added in places where they are not included in the construction, so that the dimensions of the garment made do not decrease after sewing. For women's garments, stitches are added throughout the entire scope of the structure, while for men's garments, stitches are only added to the outer parts because the rest are added to the structure. The most up-to-date

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method of completion (like all subsequent construction procedures), and therefore the most accurate, is performed using a computer CAD / CAM system [3].

1.2.1.4. Enlarging and downsizing the cuts

Extreme savings can be made in the development of test samples, through the application of CAD software solutions for the construction and modeling of patterns, aided by 3D Draping software to create a test pattern with realistic features in the computer. Plus, there is the control and archiving of cuts, which are no longer on paper, and the repairs and alterations to the cuts are easy and quick. The 3D technique offers a range of tools that simulate all production operations including sewing, control measures, design visualization, fabric texture and color variations. There can also be assistance between designers, modelers, manufacturing, technology work, calculations and marketing. Every change in the model's cut is immediately visible in the 3D view, as it is precisely created on the basis of the geometry of the cuts and the real mechanical characteristics of the material.

Zooming in and out (grading) can be done in two ways. The first is to do the basic cut grading, then the modeling, and the second way is to first do the modeling, and later grad the cut. The second way is most prevalent in making garments made of jeans [3].

1.2.1.5. Creating outline pictures

Creating outline images involves the most rational fit ie. the arrangement of the cut pieces of the garment at a predetermined width and at a minimum length of material. The outline image is made especially for the base material, layout and intermediate position.

Each cutout image also contains the following information:

model mark, the size sign, the width of the fabric, length, type of material.

Depending on the number of parts fitted, the method of fitting the cut pieces, and the type of material deposited, there are different cut patterns. How to create cut-off images in one-off cut-off images can be made in many ways. The fitting of cutting parts with the help of computers is the most rational today with the least material consumption and the most precise [3].

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1.3. Children's denim clothing and proportions

The history of children's clothing reflects the attitude taken by adults over the centuries.

During the eighteenth century, children were trained as miniature adults, in clothes that prevented them (physical freedom) from moving and which reflected the social norms of behavior that were imposed on them. From birth, the children were wrapped in tight clothes that tightened their bodies.The toddlers wore a suit that represented a smaller version of their parents' clothes, which basically symbolized the tendency for childhood to be presented and understood as an embarrassing transition to growing up as soon as possible.The emancipation of children was also reflected in the clothing revolution that led to greater freedom and more informal dressing in both children and adults. At the end of the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, clothes intended exclusively for children appeared. These clothes did not resemble adult clothing and symbolized greater freedom and comfort for young people. The styles defined cotton clothes, light colors for boys and short wide dresses without corsets for girls. The older boys wore tunics, short pants and various variants of militaristic style uniforms that over time became light and comfortable. Children wore hats, high-heeled shoes, and clothing made of dark materials until the late 19th century.

During the nineteenth century, the law introduced changes in the lives of children, but the next major social change did not occur until the twentieth century, when World War I brought about behavioral changes and simplification of dress for all age groups. In the twentieth century, a sporting style of dressing appeared. The cult of youth clothing creation became dominant in the twentieth century, and the emergence of sportswear / denim clothing has completely obliterated the differences between girls and boys.

The construction of children's clothing is not much different from the construction of adult clothing. The differences are in the deviations of the measures between the sizes. These differences depend on the age of the child. For the development of a system of sizes of children's clothing, information on the physical development and gender of the children for which the clothing is planned is taken.

Girls and boys develop at different speeds; boys are slightly larger at birth and taller than girls. The infant has an average length of 49-50 cm. The baby grows most during the first two years of life. From 2 to 5 years growth slows, and from 6 to 12 years it accelerates again and reaches its maximum from 14 to 17 years with the boy, and with the girl a little earlier. After puberty, growth slows rapidly and ceases most commonly after 25 years of age. Growth dynamics change from generation to generation. In recent years, there have been increases in growth among all European nations.

Children's proportions differ from those of adults. In infants, the head occupies ¼ body length (25%). Head circumference is larger than chest circumference. Initially, the head grows

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parallel to the body and then its growth slows down, the belly is larger than the circumference of the chest, the arms and legs are very short and undeveloped due to inactivity. In a one-year-old child, the length of the head in relation to the length of the body occupies 1/5, and in a four-year-old child the length of the body has six head lengths. Due to the slow development of the legs, the belly and trunk develop more so that the circumference of the breast is narrower than the circumference of the waist, while other proportions are the same as in adults. At age 12, body height is seven head lengths, and in an adult, body height is eight head lengths.

On pictures 2, 3, 4 and 5 is shown body proportions of children that are different ages.

Picture 2. - Body proportions of children aged 1 to 3 years

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Picture 3. - Body proportions of children aged 6 to 8 years

Picture 4. - Body proportions of younger teens

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Picture 5. - Body proportions of older teens relative to female and male proportions

The table shows the size of children's clothing for children from 6 months to 2 years:

Table 1. Indications of children's clothing sizes from 6 months to 2 years

Centimetrimeters-Body MeasurmetsSize 00 0 1 2

Age Approx. 6+meseci 9+meseci 12+meseci 2 godineHeight 66-72 74-78 80-84 86-92Chest 47-49 50-52 53-55 56Waist 47-49 50-52 53-55 56

Inches-Body MeasurmetsVeličina 00 0 1 2Age Approx. 6+meseci 9+meseci 12+meseci 2 godineHeight 26-28 29-31 32-33 34-36Chest 18-19 19-20,5 21 22Waist 18-19 19-20,5 21 21,5

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2. FINISHING JEANS CLOTHES

2.1. The effect of worn jeans using a laser

When the jeans are new and just sewn, they are uniformly dark blue in color. For eyes accustomed to fashionable jeans, they look as stiff and cheap as the unbranded stuff from stores in the 1970s. Then the technician attaches the legs to the V-brackets, presses several menus on the touch screen, and then hits the "Enter" button. The laser starts moving down the pants, trailing bluish smoke. Within less than a minute, the dark blue, ie "too" blue fabric became different, acting as if it had faded and in some places blossomed and faded, looking as though they were well worn, torn.It's high-tech magic ... a magic given to us by high technology.

Levi Strauss has attracted a lot of public attention because of his plans to completely replace the work of human hands with lasers to press the jeans with a patina of wear. The company's official announcement marks another step in the transformation of apparel production - from industrial production to capital-intensive computers.

The system itself is not new. Jeanologia, a Spanish company, has been making machines and equipment instead of people since 1994. Along with Levi's, their clients include brands such as Polo Jeans, Hilfiger Denim and Abercrombie & Fitch, which have acquired Spaniard technology.

"This is the bottleneck of any jeans company," said Rolando Sierra, regional director of the Mexican company Jeanologia, while explaining and practically demonstrating the specifics of the robotic textile industry at TexProcess Americas in 2016. "Imagine handling 300 to 400 people who do nothing for eight to 10 hours except putting denim clothes on dolls and then starting a process of destruction with their sandpaper in their fists to remove that initial indigo textile color." Figure 6 shows the layout of the BLUE Technology Jeanologia Denim label to mark the products refined with this technology [5].

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Picture 6: Layout of the BLUE Technology Jeanologia Denim label

The integration of computer systems into design and automated production offers more than obvious cost savings to manufacturers of ready-to-wear garments:

1) Production time decreases and the quantity of unsold goods reduces. Levis has developed new software that allows designers to quickly develop new styles thanks to digital prototype versions, and send their files directly to sellers. Combined with laser pagination, this system shorten the time required for product design and development. Increased automation at Levis "allows us to make rapid changes to product lines, making it easy to switch to a larger-pass model on a" produce-what-is-better-sell "system, Fortune's vice president of technical services told Fortune Magazine innovation, Bart Sites. "Instead of making piles of things months and years in advance and trying to sell them, without having the slightest idea what the market mood will be like in a few years from today, we are now able to see what is being sold and do at any time, in according to the current data from the rafts and shops. ”Figure 7 shows a device for manually consructed jeans.

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Picture 7: A device for manually effecting jeans

2) Computers are more accurate even than an experienced master. As with sewing robots, the production system at Jeanologia offers greater control over the accuracy required to produce, say, jeans. "What you see is what you get," or, in Serbian, "What's in the shop window - it's in the shop": the designer's idea and prototype, as shown to the client on a computer monitor, are absolutely up to the last point identical to what he gets as a final product. Robotics, digitization and automation all boast efficiency. Not only does this precision improve quality control, it enables new forms of design and innovation. Lee Jeans, a branch of VF Corp. began production with a system that has Jeanologie - this is a new production line of "optical design", which subtly changes the way the jeans are shaded to create even more appealing lines on the material. Lasers have long been used to create the effects of patina on jeans, using light to enhance the aesthetic effect of such jeans.”. A modern system for laser effect jeans in Picture 8.

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Picture 8: Modern Jeans Laser Effect System

3) It's more flexible. By reducing the cost of setting up and preparing a production, CAD-based manufacturing systems are guaranteed to offer efficient production in the short term, including tailoring the garment to the customer. Quickly changing the endings, whether through digital printing or the Jeanologica laser system, offers a way to tailor stitched clothing to the individual. For the 2016 American Super Bowl, for example, Levi's partnered with Jeanologia to offer fans personalized jeans.

4)Successfully responds to public concerns about working conditions and the environmental impact of the production process. Although the world's major brands of denim clothing have completely neutralized those worst conditions of production, patronizing jeans and jeans is a difficult and unpleasant job, detrimental to health (when done by people). Machines may lack the personal stamp of handcrafted products, but there are also no injuries at work that occur regularly and repeatedly to the "living" workforce. Precision machinery can reduce environmental waste. In its marketing, Jeanologia points out that there are significant water savings needed to produce jeans. Levis officials told the Wall Street Journal that their new process would reduce the number of chemicals used to produce jeans and jeans from the former 1,000 to "several dozen". Picture 9 shows a diagram of a modern jeans effect system.

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Picture 9: Schematic of a modern jeans effect system

If these trends continue, it is likely that within a decade or two, most garment manufacturers will return to their home countries with high salaries -less waste, more resistance to dirty technologies, and less employees [5].

2.2 Machines for making a worn appearance

An innovative system for creating 3D effects on jeans, such as folds, mustaches, mimicking the look of everyday worn jeans. Repeatability during production with only one movement is a guarantee, extremely flexible, it can reproduce various effects with only a small change in parameters. One mannequin is used for all sizes and all types of effects. Available in 2, 4, 6, 12 or 16 models. Picture 10 shows the 3D effects creation system on jeans "LASER BLAZE TM, T, M, S"

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Picture 10: System for creating 3D effects on jeans "LASER BLAZE TM, T, M, S"

Laser drawing pattern on garments, with the possibility of adding tables for t-shirts or jeans.The drawing laser pattern on garments "BRUSH ROBOT E5" is shown in Picture 11.

Picture 11: Pattern drawing laser on garments, BRUSH ROBOT E5

Patented automatic jeans grinding system, giving it a worn appearance. The machine is equipped with an anthropomorphic robotic arm with a brush, without the use of sand or chemicals. The system consists of 3 mannequins: one jeans is placed, one robot works and a third one to remove a work item (final product). Different effects are easily achieved by simply changing the brush. A high degree of repeatability is a guarantee. The robot for automatic grinding of jeans "SCRATCH O, V, V3, 3D" is presented in Picture 12, and manual grinding models are presented in Picture 13 [6].

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Picture 12: Robot for automatic grinding of jeans "SCRATCH O, V, V3, 3D"

Picture 13: Hand grinding mannequins

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2.3. Washing, staining and stoning machines

"G1HD / LD1 / LJ1" machines are primarily intended for processing garment samples by washing, staining or stoning. Due to the price / quality ratio, these machines are very interesting for not-so-extreme operating conditions. Equipped with an industrial PC with LCD monitor, network port and USB port for program transfer. A machine for processing clothes samples by washing, staining or stoning is presented in Picture 14.

Picture 14: Machine for processing garment samples by washing, staining or stoning

2.4. Washing machines

The machines in this series have been specifically designed for "jeans" ending and the "stoning" process. Constructive solutions have been specially developed and patented to achieve a finer, faster and more even treatment of "jeans" materials. These machines have an open drum with variable operating speed and low squeezing speed. They are suitable for all types of washing, dying and tinsel processing of viscose, cotton, polyester etc., to give the effect of "wear", "stoning" and enzyme treatment. The machine is also equipped with an electronic controller with a display.The jeans finishing and stoning machine is shown in Picture 15.

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Picture 15: Jeans finishing and stoning machine

2.5. Leonardo Printing and Spraying Machines

The revolutionary horizontal INK-JET plotter for printing on jeans. Unlike conventional plotters, the head is significantly raised, so that thick parts (seams, pockets, nuts, and buttons) can also be printed. Print from both face and back is possible. No prior jeans preparation is required. Since it uses paint also used for painting in a dying machine, its cost of exploitation is significantly reduced. It can also be equipped with additional loading and unloading tables to increase productivity. The horizontal INK-JET plotter for printing on jeans is shown in Picture 16 [6].

Picture 16: Horizontal INK-JET plotter for printing on jeans

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2.6. Sprayer –Eco-spray robot

Sprayer - apply resin and then bake. Equipped with anthropomorphic robotic arm for industrial use. The complete machine consists of:

Anthropomorphic hands with OFF-LINE programming capability, Spray system with pumps and nozzles, - Water curtains in the spray chamber for drainage, 12 mannequin system, A furnace that can be used not only for baking but also for the polymerization of sprayed jeans. Max.Temperature 170C [6]. Spray machine - resin application and baking afterwards is shown in Picture 17.

Picture 17: Spray machine - resin application and baking afterwards

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3. ISO STANDARDS AND THEIR APPLICATION IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JEANS CLOTHING

Anthropometry is an anthropological method that deals with measuring the human body and defining the relationship of the sizes of individual parts of the body. In modern manufacturing, in our apparel industry, the designation of size numbers is inadequate to the present population, which is changing due to economic, social and migration trends.

The aim of the garment manufacturer is to satisfy as many consumers as possible by choosing models, quality and adequate size numbers.

In the apparel industry, anthropometric measurements are used for the construction and modeling of clothing, and are obtained by anthropometric measurement of a representative sample.

Anthropological research and statistical data processing can provide data for the production of clothing, as standard and proportional measures and labeling systems.

There is no identical system for marking clothes all over the world. This leads to problems in the global market for the placement of apparel products. Potential consumers as well as manufacturers are confused because they often have similar labels with different meanings of one product. Consumers are often unable to recognize the information that size labels contain, and especially that new clothing products are designed in atypical materials and cuts. Due to the changing fashion trend, the new design implies different additions and subtractions necessary to achieve fashion effects.

Almost nowhere bodilymeasures do not directly correspond to the final product. It is in the interest of both manufacturers and consumers to establish a unique way of marking size numbers, clear in all markets where consumers would have the right information and manufacturers make more sales [3].

Adoption of ISO standard 3635 defines 4 essential factors for measuring the human body andmarking of clothing size:

1. The application of physical measures,

2. Application of the measurement system,

3. Application of characteristic measures

4. Introduction of pictograms.

The European set of standards EN 13402 fully relies on the previously adopted ISO standards and becomes binding for all European Union countries and manufacturers of garments exporting

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to the European Union, so it is necessary to get acquainted and accept this marking in a timely manner.

Because the ISO markings are very extensive, European standards (EN 13402-1, 13402-2,13402-3,13402-4) are defined, in which shortened markings for men's and women's outerwear are applied, for body height and stature development colors and symbols [7, 8, 9].

Clothing sizes are generally indicated for low, medium and high ages by major anthropometric measures (chest circumference, waist circumference and hip circumference) that would be labeled so that consumers can easily find the right size.

4. CNSTRUCTION, MODELING AND COMPLETE JEANS CLOTHING

The following abbreviations were used in the construction:

BH - Body height

Bust - Breast circumference

Back Waist Length- Belt circumference

Shoulder to shoulder

LM - Length of model

The circumference of the knee sock

Scope of sock down

DS- Depth of seat

HK- Height of knee

4.1. Tables of body measures

In accordance with EN 13402-3, tables of measures for clothing made of jeans have been prepared. Table 2 presents size labels for men and body measurements, Table 3 shows size labels for women and body measurements. The letter designation of sizes for men is shown in Table 4 and in Table 5 for women. Size labels for boys from 3 to 14 years of age and body measurements are presented in Table 6 and Table 7 for size labels for girls from 3 to 14 years and body measurements.

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Table 2: Size label for men and body measurements

Size for jeans/pants and similar clothes

28 29 30 31 32 33 34 36 38 39 40 41 42

Body Height (cm) 180 180 180 180 180 180 180 180 180 180 180 180 180Head (inch) 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 40 42 43 44 45 46Head (cm) 81,28 83,82 86,36 88,9 91,44 93,98 96,52 101,6 106,68 109,22 111,76 114,3 116,84Belt (inch) 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 36 38 39 40 41 42Belt (cm) 71,12 73,66 76,2 78,74 81,28 83,82 86,36 91,44 96,52 99,06 101,6 104,14 106,68Waist (inch) 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 43 45 46 47 48 49Waist (cm) 88,9 91,44 93,98 96,52 99,06 101,6 104,14 109,22 114,3 116,84 119,38 121,92 124,46

Table 3: Size label for women and body measurements

Size for pants and similar clothes 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 36 38Body Height (cm) 170 170 170 170 170 170 170 170 170 170 170Head (inch) 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 43 45Head (cm) 83,82 86,36 88,9 91,44 93,98 96,52 99,06 101,6 104,14 109,22 114,3Belt (inch) 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 36 38Belt(cm) 66,04 68,58 71,12 73,66 76,2 78,74 81,28 83,82 86,36 91,44 96,52Waist (inch) 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 48Waist (cm) 91,44 93,98 96,52 99,06 101,6 104,14 106,68 109,22 111,76 116,84 121,92

Table 4: Lettering for men (dimensions in cm)

Letter size XXS XS S M L XL XXL 3XLRecommendet Chest 76 84 92 100 108 116 128 140Chest girth 72 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116 120 126 132 138Rage 70 78 78 86 86 94 94 102 102 110 110 118 118 130 130 142Intervals 8 8 8 8 8 12 12

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Table 5: Lettering of sizes for women (dimensions are in cm)

Table 6: Size label for boys from 3 to 14 years and body dimensions

Size 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14Head (cm) 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158 164-170Head (inch) 22 22,5 23 23,5 24 26 28 29 30 31 33 36Head (cm) 73,66Waist (inch) 20 21 22 23 23,5 24 25 26 27 27,5 28 30Waist(cm) 66,04Belt (inch) 21 23 24 25 26 27 29 30 31 32 34 37Belt (cm) 76,2

Table 7: Size label for girls from 3 to 14 years and body measurements

Letter size XXS XS S M L XL XXL 3XLRecommendet bust 72 80 88 96 104 116 128 140Bust girth 68 72 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140Rage 66 74 74 82 82 90 90 98 98 106 106 118 118 130 130 142Intervals 8 8 8 8 8 12 12

Size 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14Body Height (cm) 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158 164-170Bust (inch) 22 22,5 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32Bust (cm) 73,66Belt (inch) 20 21 22 22,5 23 23,5 24 24,5 25 25,5 26 27Belt (cm) 66,04Waist (inch) 22 23 25 26 27 28 29 30 31,5 32,5 33 34Weist (cm) 76,2

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4.2. Construction of children's clothing

4.2.1. Construction preparation of children's pants

Picture 1. Technical sketch of children's pants size 3

2,5 cm3,5 cm 6 cm

5cm

3,5 cm2 cm

6 cm 1 cm

1,5 cm1,5 cm

6cm

4 cm

4 cm

9.0 cm

9cm

11 cm

10cm

Picture 1 shows a technical sketch of a model of children's pants, and Picture2 shows the construction of the same. Modeling and completing the cut shown in Picture3. Belt displacement relative to the body of the pants is presented in Picture 4.

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Size 3/98

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH = 100 cm

BL = 51 cm

HL = 56 cm

LM = 5/8 BH- (4-8) cm = 57.5 cm

SD = 1/4 HL + (1-2) cm = 15 cm

SL = LM – SD= 42.5 cm

HK = 1/2 SL + 1/10 SL = 24,5 cm

Circumference of the sock around the knee = according to sketch = 27 cm

Circumference of the sock in length = according to the drawing = 23 cm

Description for construction front sockets cut:

First, draw the initial vertical line on the left side of the paper and mark point 1.

1-2 = SD = 16 cm

1-3 = LM = 61 cm

3-4 = KL = 27 cm

2-5 = 1/20 HL + 3 cm = 5,8 cm

From points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, draw the normal lines to the right, relative to the initial vertical line.

From point 1 the belt line starts, from point 2 the seat line, from point 3 the length of the model, from point 4 the knee line and from point 5 the hips.

5-6 = 1 / 4 HL = 15 cm

From point 6 raise the normal relative to the flank line to the intersection with the belt line.

6-7 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm = 3,8 cm

5-8 = 1/2 (5-7) = 8.9 cm

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From point 8, draw a normal line starting from the belt line and ending at the model length line.

9-10 = 1/2 Circumference of the sock around the knee -2 cm = 11,5 cm, measure half the distance on the knee line to the left and right of the midline of the front sock.

11-12 = 1/2 Circumference of the sock in length -2 cm = 9,5 cm, measure half the distance on the model length line to the left and right of the midline of the front sock.

Connect with straight lines the points (5 - 9), (9-11), (11-12), (12-10) and (10-7).

In the intersection of line 10-7 and line of seat mark point 13.

Measure 1 cm to the left of the auxiliary vertical line from point 6 and mark the new point with number 14.

Connect in a straight line points 6 and 14, then draw a short normal to this line from point 14 because of the formation of a lazy pants belt.

14-15 = 1/4 BL = 12,75 cm

15-16 = 1 cm

Connect points 14 and 16 with a curve to form a belt line.

Using curves, connect points 16-5, then 5-9, forming the line of the side seam of the front sock.

Merge Lines 16-5-9-11-12-10-13.

Draw the front pocket according to the sketch by measuring from point 16 to the right along the belt line 6 cm, and belowpoints 16 along the side seam line 5 cm.

The main lines of the front sockets are left to be bolded and the pockets and front pocket pockets are drawn.

From point 7, measure 10 cm to the right and draw a vertical line.

Transfer points 2, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 and then merge points 9, 11, 12 and 10.

Draw a vertical line through point 8.

2-17 = (0,5 - 3) cm

Measure 2 cm above point 2 on the auxiliary vertical line and mark point 17.

8-18 = 2 cm

18-19 = 1/20 hip line + 1 cm = 3,8 cm

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Connect in a straight line points 17 and 19.

Normal to line 17-19, and from point 19 raise normal. A rear seat line will form on this line.

20-21 = 1/4 hip line +1.5 cm = 15,5 cm

Point 21 is obtained by raising the line 17-19 parallel to the rear seat line so that the flank line is intersected by 20 cm. Mark the point 20 on the seat line.

18-22 = 18-21, measure to the right of point 18 and mark point 22.

Mark point 23 in the middle of the knee.

With respect to line 9-11, weigh 2 cm to the left and draw a new auxiliary line. Also, with respect to line 10-12, measure 2 cm to the right and draw another auxiliary line.

Connect the left auxiliary line with point 21 and extend it to the intersection with the belt line and mark point 24.

Connect the right auxiliary line in a straight line with point 22.

Connect with the dotted line points 23 and 24.

23-24 = (23-25) + 3 cm, measure the dashed line 23-24 and transfer the measured distance so that the rear seat line intersects. The point thus obtained is denoted by number 25, and the line 23-25 is joined by a straight dashed line.

Connect in a straight line points 24 and 25.

25-26 = 1 / 4 BL + 1 cm (for stitches) = 13,75 cm

26-27 = 1 cm

Using a curve, connect points 25 and 27 to form the back of the trousers.

Draw a short normal of 3.5 cm in the middle of the belt line. Then measure 0.5 cm left and right with respect to this line to form a small stitch.

Point 28 should be marked on the right knee-level auxiliary line.

10–13 = 28–29, measure the distance 10–13 on the front foot and transfer it to the back so that it is measured from point 28 to the intersection of line 28–22. Mark the measured point with number 29.

It is necessary to bold the main contours of the cut of the hind sock by connecting it with the straight line of points 25–19, then with the curve 19–29, 29–28.Then straight line connect the outer auxiliary line below point 28, the length of the hind leg, the left auxiliary line to the knee

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line. then the curve to point 21 and again the curve from point 27, the whole stitch, then continue to point 25.

Measure 4 cm below point 25, measure 2 cm below point 27 and connect with a dashed line.

The pocket on the back of the sock is drawn according to the sketch and is parallel to the horizontal cut line and is 1.5 cm away from that line. The pocket is 9 cm wide and 8 cm long in the middle.

Draw a small pocket on the front sock according to the sketch.

Picture 2. Construction of pants for children

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Picture 3. Modeling, completing and adding stitches on pants for children Size 3

36

12,75 cm12,75 cm 12,75 cm12,75 cm4 cm6 cm 6 cm

9,5

cm

12,75 cm

12,75 cm 12,75 cm

12,75

cm

Picture 4. Measuring belt line of pants for kids Size 3

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4.2.2. Construction preparation of the girl's pants

1

2

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5

4

Picture 5. Technical sketch of pants for girls size 10

5 cm

4 cm

5cm

9cm

0,5 cm2 cm

11 cm

8cm

4 cm11

cm

7 cm

6cm

1,5 cm

2,5 cm

4cm

3 cm0,5 cm

4c m

Picture 5 shows a technical sketch of a model of women's sports pants, and Figure 6 shows a basic construction of the same. Modeling and completing are presented in Figures 7 and 8. Belt displacement with the pants body is shown in Picture 9.

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Size: 10/140

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH = 140 cm

BL (belt line) = 62 cm

HL (hip line) = 77 cm

LM=2/3 BH-19 cm=88,5 cm

SD=1/4 HL-5 to 6 cm=23,5 cm

SL = LM – SL (seat line) = 65 cm

KH (knee height) = 1/2 KL (knee line) + 1 to 3 cm = 39 cm

Circumference of the sock around the knee = 30cm

Circumference of the sock around the knee in length = 26 cm

Description of the cut design:

First, draw the initial vertical line and mark point 1.

1-2=SD=23,5 cm

1-3=LM=88,5 cm

3-4 = KH = 39 cm

1–5 = 1/20 OB + 1 cm = 4,8 cm

Then, from points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, pull the normal lines to the right. From point 1 the belt line starts, from point 5 the hips line, from point 2 the seat line, from point 4 the knee line, from point 3 the length of the model.

5–6 = 1/4 OB–2 cm = 17,25 cm

6–7 = 1/20 OB+0,5 cm = 5,35 cm

Raise the normal from point 6 above the hip line to the waistline and extend it down to the seat line.

5–8=1/2 (5–7)

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From point 8, pull the normal up to the waistline and down to the length of the model relative to the flank line. It is the centerline of the front sock.

9–10 = measure at the knee line, half the value to the left and right of the midline.

11–12 = measured on the model length line, half the value left and right of the center line.

Connect the straight auxiliary lines points 5 - 9 and 9 - 11 and then the points 7-10 and 10 - 7.

In the intersection of the belt line and the auxiliary vertical line passing through point 6, mark point 13.

13 - 14 = 1 cm

14–15=1/4 OP-1 cm=14,5 cm

15 - 15a = 1cm

Connect with the curve of points 15a, 5 and 9 and then the straight line of points 9 and 11. This is how the lateral suture of the front sock is formed.

In the intersection of the seat line and line 7 - 10, mark point 16. By connecting points 14 and 6 with a straight line, then the front seat is formed by the curve of points 6 and 16. From point 14, with respect to line 14-6, form a short right angle to the left. By connecting the points 15a and 14 with a curve, it forms the belt line at the cut of the front sock.

By connecting points 16 and 10 with a curler and points 10 and 12 in a straight line, the frontal pitch step line is formed. The shape and size of the pocket depend on fashion. The pocket opening at the waistline is 7cm and the side seam is 6cm. The opening of the front pocket is drawn in a straight line. The small pocket is parallel to the waistband and is 2.5 cm apart and also 1.5 cm away from the side seam.

Weigh 8 cm to the right of point 7 and mark point 5 there. start the vertical line through point 5 and mark point 2. Also, transfer from the front sock cut point 8, draw a center line, then transfer points 9, 10, 11 and 12. Connect in a straight line points 9 and 11 and then points 10 and 12. The line passing through point 8 represents the center line of the rear sock.

cm2172

cm2185

(OB – HL - the circumference of the hips)cm25,20cm1411918 OB

( OB – HL - the circumference of the hips)cm2,9cm5,11012019 OB

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Connect points 17 and 19 in a straight line. With respect to line 17-19 raise normal.

, measured at the knee line. cm22210219

, measured on the model length line. cm224122311

Connect points 20-22 and 22-24 in a straight line.

Point 25 is at the intersection of the knee line and the midline of the hind foot.

Connect points 21 and 18 and extend the line to the belt line, mark point 26 in cross section.

Connect with the straight auxiliary line points 21 and 23.Connect the points 25 and 26 with a broken line.

25–27 = (25–26) + 3 cm

Draw an arc with the center at point 25, to the intersection with the line starting from point 19, mark point 27 there.

Connect points 26 and 27 in a straight line.

27–28=0,5 cm

28–29 = 1/4 BL + 1 cm + 1 cm (to stitch) = 17,5 cm.

29–29a=1 cm

Connect points 28 and 29a with a slightly curved line, this curved line represents the belt line of the rear sock.

Then connect with the curve points 29a, 18 and 21, and then straight line the points 21 and 23. Thus formed a line of side seam on the back sock.

27 30 = 5 = 5cm, measured on the line of the seat of the rear sock

29a - 31 = 3cm, measured by side seam.

Connect points 29 and 30 in a straight line to form the rear hub.

The suture on the back of the sock is drawn halfway down the belt line. the distance from point 28 to 29a, is a maximum of 1 cm wide and its tip ends at the point of intersection with the satel.

22 - 32 = 10 – 16

The measurement is carried out at the step of the front sock, and then transferred to the step of the rear sock. Connect points 22 and 32 with a straight line.

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Blogging the dotted line to connect points 28, 30 and 19 and then connecting the dotted line to points 19 and 32 to get the back seat line. The back pocket is drawn parallel to the line of the satle and 4 cm lower. The back pocket is 11cm long and 11cm long. Bold contour lines.

Picture 6. Basic construction of pants for girls size 10

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56 78

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18 1917

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The most commonly used seams for sportswear are the so-called. french stitches (hidden). Seams of different widths are added to form them. This is just one example of applying Frenchseam, the variants can be very diverse both in width of stitch, number of stitches, distance of stitch from stitch, and also in position.

70cm

3 cm

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Picture 7. Modeling, completing and adding stitches to front sock of pants for girls size 10.

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2cm

1cm

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1, cm51, cm5

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cm

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Picture 8. Modeling, completing and adding stitches of front sock of pants for grls size 10

44

16 cm 16 cm

15cm

15 cm

15 cm 16 cm 15 cm16 cm 4,5 cm 6 cm

9,5c

m

6 cm

Picture 9. Measuring belt line of pants for girls size 10

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4.2.3. Construction preparation of girls for girls

6cm

8,5 cm

5 cm

8 cm

9 cm

5 cm

4,5 cm9 cm

5,5 cm 7 cm

8 cm

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8 cm

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7 cm

Picture 10. Technical sketch of a jacket for a girl

The technical sketch of the model is shown in Figure 10, the front and back construction of Figure 11, the sleeves of Figure 12, and the collar of Figure 13. Modeling and completion are shown in Figures 14, 15 and 16.

Size 10/140

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

L (length) = 140 cm

Bust/B = 85 cm

BL = 72 cm

Neck cut width = 1 / 20B+ 3 cm = 7.25 cm

SL (Sleeve length) = 1 / 10 B + 10,5 cm +1 cm = 19 cm

EL (Elbow Length) = 1 / 4 BH (body height) up to 3 cm = 34 cm Elbow Length

Width of the back (scope) = 1 / 8 B + 4,5 to 5 cm = 14,3 cm

Front Width = 1/4 B–3 cm = 15 cm

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Sleeve expression width = 1 / 8 B + 0,5 to 1cm = 9,5 cm

(FL) Front Length = EL (elbow length) + 0.5 cm = 34.5 cm

Description for tailoring the front and back of the jacket:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1-2=length of sleeve expression=19 cm

1-3=EL=34 cm

1-4 = LM = 38,5 cm

4-5 = 2,5 cm

From points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, draw horizontal lines to the left.

1-6 = neck cut width (NCW) + 2cm = 7.6cm

6-7 = 2 cm

Connect points 1 and 7 with a dashed line, this line represents the neckline of the back.

2-8 = BW (back width) + 1 cm = 15,5 cm

8-9 = 1 / 2 sleeve cut width (SCW) = 4,75 cm

9-10 = 1 / 2 SCW = 4,75 cm

10-11 = FW (front width) = 15 cm

Draw point 8 from line 8 and mark point 12.

12–13 = 0,5 cm

Connect points 7 and 13 with a straight line and extend the line to the left.

13–14 = 1,5 cm

8–15 = 1/4 (8–13)

15–B= 1 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 11 down to the model length line, and up slightly above the height of point 1.

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In the intersection of the belt line and the midline of the front, mark point 16.

16–17 = FL (front length) = 34,5 cm

From point 10, draw a vertical line upwards, and from point 17, draw a horizontal line, and mark the intersection of these two lines by point 18.

17–19 = NCW = 7,25 cm

17–20 = NCW (neck cut width) + 1 cm = 8,25 cm

Connect points 19 and 20 with a straight line, this is a line representing the neckline of the front section.

18–21 = 2,5 cm

19–22 = 7–14 (measured on back)

10–A = 1/4 (10–21)

From point 9, draw a vertical line to the model length line and mark point 23.

23–24 = 23–25 = 3 cm

In a dotted line connect points 9, B and 14, this line represents the line of the backing arms,

and then also connect the dots 9 and 25 with a curved line, this line represents the side seam line of the dorsal part.

The dotted line connects points 9, A and 22, this line represents the line of the arm of the front of the jacket,

and then connect the dots 9 and 24 with a dotted line, this is the line representing the side seam line of the front of the jacket.

The dotted line connects points 5 and 25 and this line represents the length of the back of the jacket.

11–26 = 1,5 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 26 down to the length of the model, and up at the height of point 20, and then mark points 27 and 28.

27–29 = 5 cm

Draw a straight horizontal line through point 29 to the sleeve line, this is the cut line of the front of the jacket.

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29–30 = 4,5 cm

30–31 = 9 cm

28–32 = 5,5 cm

32–33 = 7 cm

First connect the points 30 and 32, then also the straight line connect the points 31 and 33, these are also the cutting lines of the front. Draw the pocket and the pocket-lid cover according to the dimensions given in the sketch.

1–34 = 6 cm

Draw a horizontal line through point 34 and cut the back of the sleeve at

mark item 35.

35–36 = 1,5 cm, measured below point 35.

Dots 34 and 36 Connect by a dashed line, this line represents the line of cutting of the back.

36–37 = 5 cm to the right of point 36 along a curved line.

25–38 = 8 cm, measure to the right of point 25 along a curved line.

Connect points 37 and 38 in a straight line and this line is the line of cutting of the back.

Lower the shoulder line at the front by 1,5 cm.

Raise the shoulder line at the back by 1,5 cm.

Thicken the contours as well as the cutting lines and also the pocket and lid-pat lines.

Description of sleeve pattern construction:

Height of round sleeve = 1/3 SH (Sleeve Height)-1 cm = 11 cm

SL (Sleeve length) = 3/8 BH (body height)- (3 to 5) cm = 48 cm

Sleeve line scope = 21 cm

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1–2 = height of round sleeves = 11 cm1–3 = EL = 48.5 cm

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3-3a = CF (cuff width) = 4 cm

Draw horizontal lines through points 2 and 3a.

1–4 = 1–5 = ½ scope of round sleeve – 0.5 cm = 19 cm

Connect dots 4-1 and 1-5 with straight lines.

3–6 = 3–7 = 1/2 SL (sleeve length) = 10.5 cm

Connect points 4 and 6 with a straight line and then points 5 and 7.

4–8 = 1/2 (1–4) –1 cm

4–9 = 1/2 (4–8)

1–10 = 1/2 (1–8)

1–11 = 1/2 (1–5)

1–12 = 1/2 (1-1)

5–13 = 1/2 (5–11)

9 –14 = 0,8 cm

10 –15 = 1,2 cm

12–16 = 2 cm

11–17 = 1,5 cm

13–18 = 0,5 cm

Connect points 4.14, 8, 15, 1, 16, 17, 18 and 5 with a straight line, this is a sleeve round line.Connect the dots 4 and 6 with a dashed line and then the dots 5 and 7, the curls represent the lines of the inner seams of the sleeves.

5–19 = (9–36) +1 cm, measure 9 to 36 on the basic structure of the back.

One centimeter is added to avoid seams.

7–20 = 5 cm

In a straight dashed line connect points 19 and 20, this is the line of cutting the sleeves.

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20–21 = 8 cm, this distance represents the depth of the opening-spike on the sleeve.

Bold outline sleeve contours.

Description of collar cut design:

Draw a right angle and mark point 1.

1–2 = Scope of the neck cut back length = 9 cm

2–3 = Scope of the neck cut front length= 12 cm

1–4 = 1 cm

4–5 = 7 cm

Draw a vertical line from point 3, then a horizontal line from point 5, and mark the intersection of these lines with point 6.

2–7 = 0,5 cm

3–8 = 0,5 cm

Connect points 4, 7 and 8 with a straight line.

6 –9 = 1,5 cm

Connect points 5 and 9 with a straight line and extend it to the left.

9-10 = 2 cm, measured along a curved line to the left of point 9.

Connect points 8 and 10 in a straight line.

Bold collar contour lines.

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Picture 11. Basic construction of a jacket for girls Picture 12. Construction of sleeves of a jacket for girls

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Picture 13. Construction of the collar of a jacket for girls

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Picture 14. Modeling, completing and adding stitches to front and back of a jacket for girls

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21 cm

Picture 15. Modeling, completing and adding stitches to sleeves of jacket for girls

0,8 cm

0,8

cm

0,8cm1X

0,3 cm

1X

0,8 cm

Picture 16. Modeling and completing a collar of a jacket for girls

54

4.2.4. Construction preparation of pants for boys

12cm

13.5 cm

13 cm

13 cm

10cm

7.5

cm

2 cm1 cm

3,5 cm

11 cm

8cm

2 cm3 cm

2 cm

4c m

7 cm

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6cm

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8cm

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4 cm

1,5 cm 1 cm

20cm18

cm

1,5 cm 2 cm11 cm 4 cm 8 cm

5 cm

Picture 17. Technical sketch of boys pants

Picture 17 shows men's children's pants with all the details required to construct the same, and Picture 18 shows the cut designs. Modeling and completing the cut is shown in Pictures 19 and 20. Belt displacement with the pants body is shown in Picture 21.

55

Size 10/140

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

L = 140 cm

BL = 66 cm

HL = 76 cm

Model Length = 5/8 BH (body height) – (2–5) cm = 88,5 cm

SD = 1 / 4 HL (hip line) +(2–5) cm = 23,5 cm

SD = Model Length – SD = 65 cm

KH (knee height) = 1 / 2 Seat Line + 1 / 10 Seat Line = 36,25 cm

Scope of knee line = according to sketch = 39cm

Scope of leg length = according to the drawing = 28 cm

The measure of the body at the ankle of a 10-year-old child is 18 cm.

Description for front and back sock construction:

First draw the initial vertical line on the left side of the paper and mark point 1.

1-2 = SD = 23,5 cm

1-3 = LM = 88,5 cm

3-4 = KH = 39 cm.

2-5 = 1/20 HL + 3cm = 6.8cm

From points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, draw normal lines to the right, relative to the initial vertical line.

5-6 = 1 / 4 HL= 19 cm

6-7 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm = 4.8 cm

From point 6 raise the normal with respect to the flank line to the intersection with the belt line.

5-8 = 1/2 (5-7) = 12 cm

From point 8, draw a normal line starting from the belt line and ending at the model length line.

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9-10 = 1/2 scope of knee line -2 cm = 16 cm, measure half the distance on the knee line to the left and right of the midline of the front sock.

11-12 = 1/2 scope of leg length -2 cm = 12 cm, measure half the distance on the model length line left and right of the center line of the front sock.

Connect with straight lines the points (5 and 9), (9-11), (11-12), (12-10) and (10-7).

In the intersection of line 10-7 and line of seat mark point 13.

The intersection of the vertical line passing through point 6 and mark the belt line with point 14.

14-15 = 1 cm

Connect the straight lines of points 6 and 15, connect the curve with lines 6-13 to form a front seat line.

With respect to the line joining points 6 and 15, and from point 15, draw a short normal due to the formation of a lazy pants belt.

15–16 = 1/4 BL (belt line) = 16,5cm

16–17 = 1 cm

Use the dotted line to connect dots 15-17 to form the front sockets belt line.

Use the dotted line to connect points 17-5, then 5-9, thus forming the line of the side seam of the front foot.

Connect dots 10-13 with a dashed line.

Draw the front pocket according to the drawing by measuring from point 17 to the right along the belt line 11 cm, then measuring 4 cm below. Below point 17, measure 8cm along the side seam line and merge this point with the vertical line of the front pocket.

The small right pocket is also drawn on the basic construction of the trousers according to the sketch and in this case about 2 cm below the belt.

Above points 9 and 10, measure 4 cm upwards and downwards and then measure 6 cm above the centerline of lines 9-10 above and below.

Using a curve, form a curved line above and below the knee line by joining the marked auxiliary points.

The main lines of the front sockets are left to bold.

57

Then bold the lines of the slanted "gun" pocket, the small pocket and the crooked cut above and below the knee.

From point 7, measure 10 cm to the right and mark point 5 and transfer point 8.

Draw vertical lines through points 5 and 8 and transfer points 2, 9, 10, 11 and 12.

Connect dots 9, 11, 12 and 10 with straight lines.

2–18 = (0,5–3) cm

8–19 = 2 cm

19–20 = 1/20 hip size + 1 cm = 4.8 cm

Connect in a straight line points 18 and 20.

Normal to line 18-20, and from point 20 to draw the normal. A rear seat line will form on this line.

21–22=1/4 hip size +1cm=20 , point 22 is obtained by lifting the line 18-20 along the line of the rear seat in parallel, by intersecting the hips by 20 cm. Mark point 22 on the seat line.

19–23=19–22

Mark point 24 in the middle of the knee.

With respect to line 9-11, weigh 2 cm to the left and draw a new auxiliary line. Also, with respect to line 10-12, measure 2 cm to the right and draw another auxiliary line.

Connect the left auxiliary line with point 22 and extend it to the intersection with the belt line and mark point 25.Connect the right auxiliary line with the straight line from the knee line with point 23.

Connect with the dotted line points 24 and 25.

24–25=(24–26) + 3 cm

Connect points 25-26 in a straight line.

26–27 = 0,5 cm

27–28 = 1 / 4 belt size + 1.5 cm (for stitching) = 18 cm, to be measured by the auxiliary line.

28–29 = 1 cm, measured above point 28.

Mark point 30 on the right knee line at the right.

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30–31 = 10–13 (measure 10–13 on front sockets)

Draw a short normal length of 5 cm in the middle of the belt line (between straps 27 and 29). Then weigh 0.75cm left and right with respect to this line to form a small stitch.

It is necessary to bold the main contours of the tail sock cut by connecting it with the straight line of point 27-20, then with the wrong line connect the points 20-31, 31-30, again with the right line the outer auxiliary line below point 30, the length of the back sock, the left line to the knee line , then the curve line to point 22, the curve line from point 22-29, then the belt line from point 29 to the entire stitch, then continue to point 27.

Parallel to the line of the belt, and 5 cm below it, draw a line of the rear saddle. According to the sketch, the two lines are parallel.

The pocket on the back of the sock draws toward the sketch and it is parallel to the back seat. The pocket is 13 cm wide and 12 cm long in the middle.

At the knee height, the pants are cut horizontally.

Also, the inside lines need to be bold, such as the horizontal suture on the knee line, the pocket with the pat, and the cut line of the back satel.

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Picture 18. Basic construction of pants for boys

31

30

29 2726

25

2cm

2 cm

24

232221

18

linija pojasa

linija dužine modela

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11 12

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linija sedišta

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2019

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Picture 19. Modeling, completing and adding stitches of front sock of pants for boys

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Picture 20. Modeling, completing and adding stitches of back sock of pants for boys

62

17 cm 17 cm

16cm

16 cm

16 cm17 cm 17 cm16 cm4,5 cm6 cm 6 cm

9.5

cm

Picture 21. Measuring belt line parts of pants for boys

63

4.2.5. Construction preparation of a boy shirt

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X X

10 cm3 cm

9.5 cm

8cm

9 cm

10cm

4 cm

Picture 22. Technical sketch of shirts for boys

9cm 11 cm

5 cm

3 cm

6 cm

6 cm

Picture 22 shows a technical sketch of a boys shirt,Picture 23 front and back structures, Picture 24 sleeves with cuff and collar with pin. Modeling and completing are shown in Picture 25 and 26.

Size 10/140

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

L = 140 cm

B (bust) = 74 cm

BL = 66 cm

HL = 76 cm

SCL (sleeve cut length) = 1 / 10 B +9 cm +1 cm= 17,9 cm

EL (elbow length) = 1/4 BH – (2–3) cm = 32,5 cm

64

HD (hip depth) = EL + 20 cm = 53 cm

LM = HD = according to the sketch

NCW (neck cut width) = 1/20 chest scope +2 cm = 5,7 cm

FL (front length) = EL + 0,5 cm = 33,5 cm

Back width (BW) = 1/4 B -1 / 16 B + (2–4) cm = 17 cm.

SCS (sleeve cut scope) = 1 / 8 B + (1–2) cm = 10,25 cm.

Front width of chest/bust = 1 / 4 B–1 / 16 B + 1 cm = 15 cm

Description of the construction of the cut for the front and back:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1–2 = SCL (sleeve cut length) = 17,9 cm

1–3 = EL= 32,5 cm

1–4 = LM = HL = 53 cm

Draw horizontal lines from points 1,2,3 and 4.

1–5 = NCS (neck cut scope) = 5,7cm

5–6 = 2 cm

Connect points 1 and 6 with a dashed line, this line represents the neckline of the back.

2–7 = BW = 17 cm

Draw a vertical line from point 7 and mark a point and a cross section with a horizontal line passing through point 1 mark with a point 8.

8–9 = 0,5 cm

Connect points 6 and 9 with a straight line and extend the line to the left of point 9.

9–10 = 1,5 cm

7–11 = 1/3 Neck cut

11–B = 1 cm

65

7–12 = SCS (sleeve cut scope) = 10,25 cm

12–13 = Front width of chest = 15 cm

13–14 = 1/2 (2-13)

Mark point 15. Draw a vertical line through points 13 and 15.

15–16 = FL = 33,5 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 12, draw a horizontal line through point 16, and mark the intersection of these lines with point 17.

16–18 = NCW (neck cut width) = 5,7 cm

16–19 = NCW (neck cut width)+ 1 cm = 6,7 cm

Connect points 18 and 19 with a straight line.

17–20 = 3 cm

Connect points 18 and 20 in a straight line and extend to the right.

18–21 = 6-10 on the back, this line represents the neckline of the front.

12–22 = 1/4 SCS (sleeve cut scope) + 0.5 cm = 3 cm

22–A = 1 cm

In a dotted line connect points 10, B, 14, A and 21, the ovaline represents the line of the sleeve notch of the front and back.

Draw a vertical line through point 14.

Mark points 23 and 24.

Point 25 is obtained by measuring 1.5 cm from right 23 and 1 cm above.

Point 26 is obtained by measuring 1.5 cm from left 23 and 1 cm above.

24–27 = 3 cm

From point 27, measure left and right 0.75 cm and mark points 28 and 29.

In a dotted line connect points 14, 25 and 29, this line represents the side seam line of the back.

66

Also, by connecting the dots 14, 26 and 28 with a curved line, this line represents the side seam line of the front.

Draw a vertical line at 1.5 cm parallel to the line joining points 15, 13 and 19 and mark point 30 (this distance is an accessory for the clasp).

In a dotted line connect points 4 and 29, this line represents the line of length of the front.

Also, by connecting the dotted lines 28 and 30, this line represents the line of length of the dorsal part.Lower shoulder seam at front 3 cm and raise back at 3 cm.

1–31 = 9 cm. Draw a horizontal line through point 31. It's a line of cutting back.

Draw a buttonhole on the front 3 cm wide (screwed part in the picture).

Draw a pocket and a patna according to the sketch.

Bold contour lines of the front and back of the shirt.

Draw the position of the holes (the holes on the shirt are vertical).

Description of sleeve pattern construction:

SL = 3/8 BH– (3–5) cm = 48 cm.

Height of the scope of the sleeve = 1/3 BH (body height ) –1 cm = 12 cm

Scope of sleeve length = 20 cm

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1–2 = height of sleeve scope = 12 cm

1–3 = SL = 48 cm

3–3a = CW = 6 cm

Draw horizontal lines from points 2 and 3a.

1–4 = 1-5 = 1/2 scope of sleeve expression –0.5 cm.

1–6 = 1/2 (1–5)

Connect points 4.1 and 5 with straight lines.

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3a–6 = 3a–7 = 1/2 scope of sleeve length + 2,5 cm (for falta) = 12,5 cm.

Connect dots 4 and 6 with straight lines and then dots 5 and 7.

6–6a = 0,5 cm.

7–7a = 0,5 cm.

Connect points 4, 6a, 3a, 7a and 5 with the dashed lines.

4–8 = 1/3 (1-4).

4–9 = 1/2 (4-8).

1–10 = 1/2 (1-8) –1 cm.

1–11 = 1/3 (1-5) – 1 cm.

9–12 = 0,5 cm

10–13 = 1,5 cm

11–14 = 2 cm

Connect the dots 4, 9, 8, 13, 1, 14 and 5 with a dashed line.

4-A = 14-A (frontal merit merit)

Measure 1.25 cm to the left and right of point 3a and draw a fold.

Measure 2 cm from the drawn seam, then draw another 2.5 cm seam.

7–15 = 5 cm.

Draw a vertical line through point 15.

15–16 = 10 cm. This distance represents the opening on the sleeve-spike.

Bold outline sleeve contours.

Draw a cuff sleeve according to the picture on 24.

Description of collar cut design:

Draw a right angle and mark point 1.

1–2 = 1/2 scope of neck cut (front) + 1/2 scope of neck cut (back) = 17 cm.

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2–3 = front buckle accessory = 1,5 cm

1–4 = 1/2 scope of neck cut SNC (back)

1–5 = 1 cm

5–6 = 3 cm

6–7 = 1 cm

7–8 = 5 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 3 and draw a horizontal line through point 8 and mark the intersection of these lines with point 9.

2–10 = 3 cm (draw a vertical line through point 2 and measure 3 cm above point 3 and mark point 10).

3–11 = 0,7 cm

Connect the dots 5, 11, 10 and 6 with the dashed lines.

9–12 = 1 cm.

Connect points 7 and 10 with a slightly curved line, then connect points 10 and 12 with a straight line, and connect points 12 and 8 with a straight line.

Bold collar contour lines.

69

Picture 23. Construction of front and back part of a shirt for a boys

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Picture 24. Construction of sleeves and a collar of a shirt for boys

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Picture 25. Modeling and completing back part of shirt for boys

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Picture 26. Modeling and completing of collar and sleeves

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4.2.6. Preparation for construction jackets for boys

8 cm

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7 cm

8 cm

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12 cm7 cm

8cm

10cm 3 cm

4 cm9.5 cm

10 cm

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9 cm

Picture 27. Technical sketch of jackets for boys

5 cm

Picture 27 is showing technical mark ups of a jacket for boys. Picture 28 is the construction of front and the back. Picture 29 sleeves, picture 30 the collar. Modeling and completing is shown on pictures 31, 32 and 33.

Size: 10/140

Main and auxiliary measures of the body:

BH =1 40 cm

B = 73 cm

BL = 76 cm

HL = 76 cm

SCL = 1/4B+3 cm = 21,25 cm

EL = 1/4 BH -1cm = 34 cm

74

LM = EL+16 cm=50 cm

BW =2/10 B+2-3 cm=17,6 cm

Scope of sleeve cut (SCS)= 1/8 chest scope +5,5 cm=14,5 cm

FW=2/10 B+2-3 cm=17,1 cm

SNC (scope of neck cut) =1/20 chest scope +3,5 cm= 7,15 cm

FL=EL+3 cm=37 cm

Description of construction front and the back:

Draw a vertical line and mark a dot 1.

1– 2 = length of sleeve cut = 21,25 cm

1– 3 = EL = 34 cm

1– 4 = LM = 50 cm

Out of dots 1,2,3i 4 draw horizontal lines.

1– 5 = SNC (scope of neck cut) =7 ,15 cm

5– 6 = 2 cm

Dots 1 and 6 connect with a curve line.

2– 7 = BW = 17,6 cm

Out of dot 7 draw a vertical line and mark the dot 8.

8– 9 = 1,5 cm

Connect the dots 6 and 9 and long the line to the left.

9– 10 = 1,5 cm

7– 11 = 1/3 sleeve height SH

11– B = 1 cm

7– 12 = CUT (Scope of sleeve) = 14,5 cm

12– 13 = Front width (FW) = 17,1 cm

75

13– 14 = 1/2 (2-13)

Mark the dot 15. Through dots 13 and 15 draw a vertical line.

15– 16 = FL = 37 cm

Through dot 12 draw a vertical line and through dot 16 draw a horizontal line then interception of these lines mark with dot 17.

16– 18 = scope of neck cut = 7,15 cm

16-19 = scope of neck cut+1 cm = 8,15 cm

Dots 18 and 19 connect with a curve line.

17– 20 = 3,5 cm

Dots 18 and 20 connect with a straight line and long it to the right.

18– 21 = 6-10 on the back side.

12– 22 = 7– 11

22– A = 1 cm

Using a curve line connect the following dots 10, B, 14, A and 21.

Through dot 14 draw a vertical line.

Mark the dots 23 and 24.

From dot 23 measure left and right 1cm and mark the dots 25 and 26.

From dot 24 measure left and right 0,5 cm then mark the dots 27 and 28.

Using a curve line connect the dots 14, 25 and 27.

Using a curve line connect the dots 14, 16 and 28.

On 1,5 cm parallel with the line which connects dots 15, 13 and 19 draw a vertical line and the interception of these lines and belt line mark with dot 29.

Using a straight line connect the dots 4 and 27 and then 28 and 29.

Shoulder stitch on the front lower down 3 cm and back side rise up 3cm.

Thicken the contour lines of the front and the back.

1– 30 = 8 cm

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Through dot 30 draw draw a horizontal line and mark the dot 31.

31– 32 = 2 cm

Dots 30 and 32 connect with a curve line. That is the line of back cut.

32– 33 = 4,5 cm

4– 34 = 11,5 cm

Dots 33 and 34 connect with a curve line. This is another back cut line.

19– 35 = 8 cm

Through dot 35 draw a horizontal line and mark the dot 36.

This is the line of front cut.

35– 37 = 5,5 cm

37– 38 = 9,5 cm

29– 39 = 6,5 cm

39– 40 = 7,5 cm

Using straight lines connect the dots 37 and 39 and then 38 and 40. These are also lines of the front cut.

Thicken the lines of front and back cut.

Draw a pocket and make a lid for the pocket sack.

Draw a batten on a front side.

Description of the construction of sleeve:

Height of the sleeve scope= 1/2 sleeve height – 2/10 sleeve height +2 cm = 13 cm.

Sleeve length = 3/8 body height – 3 and 5 cm = 49 cm

Scope of the length of the sleeve = 24,6 cm

Draw a vertical line and mark the dot 1.

1– 2 = SHS (height of sleeve scope) = 13 cm

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1-3 = SL (sleeve length) = 49 cm

3-3a = CF (cuff width) = 4 cm.

Through dots 2, 3a and 3 draw a horizontal line.

1– 4 = 1– 5=1/2 scope of sleeve CUT-0,5 cm = 21,8 cm

3a– 6 = 3a– 7= 1/2 scope of sleeve length = 2,3 cm

4– 8 = 1/3 (4– 1)

4– 9 = 1/2 (4– 8)

1– 10 = 1/2 (1-8)

1– 11 = 1/2 (1– 5)

1– 12 = 1/2 (1– 11)

9– 13 = 0,8 cm

10– 14 = 1,2 cm

12– 15 = 2 cm

11– 16 = 1,5 cm

Using curve lines connect the dots 4, 13, 8, 14, 1, 15, 16 and 5 and using a straight line connect the dots 4 and 6 and then 5 and 7.

7– 17 = 6 cm

5– 18 = 14-32 measure the back side.

Dots 17 and 18 connect with a straight line. That is the line of sleeve cut.

16– 19 = 8 cm, this distance represents the length of opening on the sleeves.

6– 6a = 7– 7a = 0,7 cm

Description of the construction of the collar:

Draw a right angle and mark a dot 1.

1– 2=1/2 scope of the height of the expression =19,5 cm

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1– 3 = scope of the height of the expression LD=10 cm

1– 4 = 1 cm

4– 5 = 7 cm

Through dot 2 draw a vertical line and through dot 5 draw a horizontal line. The interception of these lines mark with a dot 6.

3– 7 = 0,5 cm

2– 8 = 0,3 cm

6– 9 = 1 cm

9– 10 = 2 cm

Draw contour lines of a collar interception of dots 4, 7 and 8 with a curve line and then lines 8 and 10 draw with a straight line and dots 10, 9 and 3 connect with a curve line.

Picture 28. Basic construction of a jacket for boys

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Picture 29. Sleeve construction for the jackets for boys

Picture 30. Construction of collars for the boys1

2 34

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cm6 cm 6 cm1X

Picture 31. Modeling, completing and adding stitches to front and back of a jacket for boys

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Picture 32. Modeling and completing sewing parts of sleeves of jackets for boys

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Picture 33. Modeling and completing collars of jackets for the boys

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4.3. Construction of Women Clothes

4.3.1. Construction preparation of women's pants model 112 cm

5 cm

4,5 c

m

3 cm

6cm

1 cm

1 cm 2cm

15,5 cm13

cm

12,5

cm8,5 cm

Picture 1. Tehcnical sketch of pants for women

On this picture number 1 we can see a technical scetch of pants Model-1 and on picture 2 is the construction of the front side and back side of the sock of same pants. Modeling and construction of these pants is showed on pictures 3 and 4. The construction of tailored belt is presented on picture 5 and modeling and construction of socks with a tailored belt is shown on picture 6.

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Size 29

Main and auxiliary measures of the body:

BH = 170 cm

BL =73,66 cm = 74 cm

HL =99,06 cm = 99 cm

SCL (scope of the knee line) = 42 cm

LLL(length of the leg line) = 32 cm

SL = LM – DS= 78,25 cm

Description for the construction of the sweing front leggings:

Draw a vertical line and mark the dot 1.

1– 2 =DS = 1/4 HL = 24,75 cm

1– 3 = LM = 5/8 BH– 3 cm = 103 cm

3– 4 = SH (step height) = 1/2 step line SL + 1/10 SL = 47 cm

2– 5 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm= 6 cm

From dots 1,2,3,4 and 5 draw horizontal lines.

5– 6 = 1/4 HL – 2 cm = 22,75 cm

6– 7 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm = 6 cm

5– 8 = 1/2 (5 – 7)

Through dot 8 draw a vertical line and mark the dots 9 and 10 on a line in the middle of the front leggings.

9– 11 = 9 – 12 = 1/4 LKC (length of the knee sock) – 1 cm = 7 cm

10– 13 = 10 – 14 = 1/4 SKC – 1 cm = 9,5 cm

Using straight lines connect the dots 5-13,13-11, 11-12, 12-14 i 14-7and then mark dot 15.

Through dot 6 draw a vertical line and mark dots 16 and 17.

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16 – 18 = 1/3 (15 – 16)

Connect dots 15 and 18.

6 – 19 = 1 cm

17– 20 = 2 cm

Using a straight line connect the dots 20-19 and then continue merging with a curve line dots 19-15.

20 – 21 = ¼ belt line – 1 cm = 17,5 cm.

21– 22 = 1 cm

Using a curve line connect dots 20 and 22.

Draw a lateral bent by connecting dots 13, 5 and 22.

Using a curve line connect dots 14 and 15.

Since these are trousers with lowered waist to measure:

20 – 23 = 5,5 cm

22 – 24 = 6 cm

Connect the curve line dots 23-24.

Thicken the contour lines of the front side of the pants.

According to the sketch, draw a pocket curve, undercoat and pocket bag.

Description for tail sock construction:

7– 5 = 10 cm, draw a vertical line through dot 2 and mark the dots 5, 8 and 10.

Draw a vertical line which goes through dot 8 and then move the dots 11, 12, 14 and 14 and then move the lines which connect those dots.

11 – 25 = 12– 26 = 2 cm

13 – 27 = 14 – 28 =2 cm

Using straight lines connect these dots: 27– 25, 25– 26 i 26 – 28.

2 – 29 = 4 cm

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8 – 30 = 3 cm

30 – 31 = 1/20 hip line + 5 cm = 10 cm

30 – 32 = 30 – 33 = 19 cm

Using straight line connect the dots 28 and 33.

28 – 34 = 14 – 15 ( the distance between the socks 14 i 15 measure on a front sock).

Using a curve line connect the dots 28 and 34.

Using the straight line connect the dots 27 and 32 and continue the line until the interception of the belt line and mark the dot 35.

Using a straight line connect the dots 29 and 31.

From dot 31 in accordance with the line 29 – 31 draw a normal line.

10 – 36 = (10 – 35) + 5 cm.

Using a straight line connect the dots 36 and 35.

36– 37 = 1 cm

37– 38=1/4 hip line + 1 cm+ 1,5 cm (to stitch) = 21 cm.

Measure 1 cm above dot 38 and mark the dot 39.

Using the straight line connect dots 37 and 39. On the middle of the belt mark up a normal line and draw a stitch width 1,5cm and 6 cm long.

Draw a lateral bent of the back side by merging the dots 25, 27, 32,39.

25– 39 = 11– 22 (lateral bents of the back and the front should be the same size/length).

37– 40 = 6 cm.

39 – 41 = 6 cm.

Using a straight line connect the dots 40 and 41.

40– 42 = 5 cm

41– 43 = 2,5 cm

Using a straight-line connect dots 42 and 43. (This line represents the line of back sock cut). Parallel with this line and under it 2 cm draw a contour of the pocket.

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Thicken the contour lines of the back-side of the pants.

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Picture 2. Construction of pants for Women Model-1.

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Picture 3. Modeling and completing front sock/leg of pants for women. Model 1.

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Picture 4. Modeling and compeleting back sock/leg of pants for Women. Model 1.

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Description of the construction of the belt pattern:

1– 2 = (23– 24) on the front + (40 – 41) on the back = 43 cm.

2– 3 = 10 cm.

Using a curve line connect the dots 1 and 3.

1– 4 = (40– 41), measure on a basic construction.

4 – 3 = 23 – 24, measure on a front sock.Length of the belt – dot 3 can move so that the measure of the belt can be appropriate to the scope of both sock belts.

1 – 5 = 3,8 cm, because of the width on a maschine.

From dot 3 normal line to the lines 3 and 4, draw a line up.On it measure the distance same as between the dots 1-5. Mark the dot 6.

Draw a parallel curve line with the lines 1-3 from dot 5.

Thicken the contour belt lines.

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4 5

6

Picture 5. Construction of tailored belt of pants for women. Model-1

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1,5 cm

Picture 6. Modeling and completing tailored belt of pants for Women. Model 1.

6 cm

4,5cm

23 cm 23 cm

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cm

20 cm 20 cm

23 cm 23 cm

6 cm

6 cm

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Picture 7. Measuring the belt with cutting parts of sports pants. Model 1

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4.3.2. Construction preparation of women's pants model 2

5cm

3 cm

6cm

1 cm

16.0 cm

1,5 cm2,5 cm

10 cm

7 cm

2 cm

4 cm

12.5

cm8.5 cm

13cm 1 cm

Picture 8. Tehcnical sketch of woman's model pants. Model 2.

On this picture number 8 it is shown scheme of the pants Model-2 and on a picture 9 the construction of the front and back sock of same pants. Modeling and construction of this pants are shown on pictures 10 and 11. The construction of the tailored belt is shown on a picture 12 and modeling and completing on picture 13. Measuring belt socks with a tailored belt is shown on a picture 14.

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Size 29

Main and auxiliary measures:

BH = 170 cm

BL= 73,66 cm =74cm

HL = 99,06 cm = 99 cm

SKC (Scope of the knee sock)= 41 cm

SKL (Scope of the knee length) = 39 cm

Opis za konstrukciju kroja prednje nogavice:

Draw a vertical line and mark the dot 1.

1 – 2 =seat length = 1/4 HL = 24,75 cm

1 – 3 = Model length = 5/8 BH – 3 cm = 103 cm

3 – 4 = Knee height = 1/2 step length SL + 1/10 SL = 47 cm

2 – 5 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm= 6 cm

From dots 1,2,3,4 and 5 draw horizontal lines.

5 – 6 = 1/4 HL – 2 cm = 22,75 cm

6 – 7 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm = 6 cm

5 – 8 = 1/2 (5 – 7)

From dots 8 draw a vertical line and mark the dots 9 and 10 on a middle front sock.

1 = 9 – 12 = 1/4 SSL (scope of sock length) – 1 cm

10 – 13 = 10 – 14 = 1/4 SKS (scope of the knee sock) – 1 cm

Using straight lines connect 5-13, 13-11, 11-12, 12-14 i 14-7, ant then mark the dot 15.

Through dot 6 draw a vertical line and mark the dots 16 and 17.

16 – 18 = 1/3 (15 – 16).

Connect dots 15 i 18.

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6 – 19 = 1 cm.

17 – 20 = 2 cm.

Using straight lines connect dots 20-19 and then continue the connection of dots 19-15 with a curve line.

20 – 21 = 1/4 belt size- 1 cm = 17,5 cm.

21 – 22 = 1 cm.

Using a curve line connect dots 20 i 22.

Draw a lateral bent by merging dots 13, 5 and 22.

Using a curve line connect the dots 14 and 15.

Given that this is a model with a lowered waist to measure:

20 – 23 = 5,5 cm.

22 – 24 = 6 cm.

Connect with a curve line dots 23-24.

Thicken the contour lines of the front side of the pants.

According to the sketch, draw the curve of the pocket, the undercoat, the pocket bag and the pocket on the back foot.

Description for tail sock construction:

7 – 5 = 10 cm, draw a vertical line through a point 5 and mark the points 2 i 8.

Draw a vertical line passing through point 8, then convey points 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 and draw lines connecting those points.

11 – 25 = 12 – 26 = 2 cm.

13 – 27 = 14 – 28 =2 cm.

Connect the dots with straight lines 25 i 27, and then 26 i 28.

2 – 29 = 2 cm.

8 – 30 = 2 cm.

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30 – 31 = 1/20 hip size + 3 cm = 8 cm.

31 – 32=1/4 hip size +1 cm = 25,75 cm.

30 – 33 = 30 – 32 = 18 cm.

Using straight line connect the dots 28 i 33.

28 – 34 = 14 – 15 (measure the distance between points 14 and 15 on the front foot construction).

Connect points 29 and 31 in a straight line and then draw a normal line with respect to this line from point 31.

Connect points 27 and 32 and extend the line up to the intersection with the belt line. Intersect these two lines to mark point 35.

10 – 36 = (10 – 35) + 5 cm.

Using straight line connect dots 36 i 35.

36 – 37 = 1 cm.

37 – 38 = 1/4 belt size +1 cm+ 1,5 cm (to stitch) =21 cm.

Measure 1 cm above point 38 and mark point 39.

Draw points 37 and 39 in a dotted line. In the middle of the distance between points 37 and 39, draw a normal line and draw a stitch 2 cm wide and 6 cm long.

Draw the lateral suture of the back by joining points 27, 29, 32, and 39.

27 – 39 = 13 – 22.

Draw the back seam seam in a straight line by joining points 34, 31 and 37.

Considering that this is a model with a dropped waist, to measure:

37 – 40 = 6 cm.

39 – 41 = 6 cm.

Using a straight line conncet dots 40 i 41.

40 – 42 = 5 cm.

41 – 43 = 2,5 cm jointed with the dotted line at points 42 and 43, this line represents the cutting line of the rear legs.

Draw a contour of the pocket parallel to this line and 2 cm below it.

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Bold contour lines of the back of the pants.

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Picture 9. Construction of pants for Women Model-2

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Picture 10. Modeling and completing front sock of pants for women. Model 2.

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Picture 11. Modeling and completing the back sock of pants for women. Model 2.

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Belt Structure Description:

1 - 2 = (23 - 24) front side+ (40 - 41) back side=43,4 cm.

2 - 3 = 10 cm.

Using a curve line connect dots 1 i 3.

1 - 4 = (40 - 41), to measure on the basic structure.

4-3 = 23-24, measured on front foot. The length of the belt, ie point 3, can be adjusted to fit the belt circumference of both socks.

1 - 5 = 3.8 cm, due to the width of the appliance.

From point 3, normal to line 3-4, draw the line upwards. On it, measure the distance as between points 1-5. Mark point 6.

Draw a parallel curve line with line 1-3, and from point 5.

Bold outline belt contours.

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4 5

6

Picture 12. Construction of tailored belt of pants for Women Model-2

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Picture 13. Modeling and completing of tailored belt of pants for women Model-2

23,4 cm 23,4 cm

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cm

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Picture 14. Measuring the belt line with cutting parts of sports pants Model-2

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4.3.3 construction preparation of women's skirts

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Picture 15. Tehcnical sketch of the skirt

The technical sketch of the skirt is given in Figure 15. The construction of the model is shown in Figure 16, the modeling in Figure 17, the tailoring of Figure 18, the construction, modeling and completion of the belt in Figure 19, and the modeling and completion of the sections 20. a trimmed belt is shown in Figure 21.

Size 29

Main and auxiliary measures:

BH = 170 cm

BL = 73,66 cm = 74 cm

HL = 99,06 cm = 99 cm

Description of skirt design:

Mark point 1 and draw the initial vertical line.

12 = 1/8 BH = 21, 25 cm

13 = LM = 2/8 BH+7 cm = 49,5 cm

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From dots 1, 2 and 3, pull the normals to the right.

24 = 1/2 HL + 0,5 cm = 50 cm

Through dot 4 draw a vertical line.

25 = 1/2 (24) = 25 cm

Through dot 5 draw a vertical line.

16 = 1/2 belt size + 0,5 cm = 37,5 cm

In the intersection of the belt line and the midline of the back (line passing through point 4) mark point 7, and in the cross section of the belt line and side seam line (line passing through point 5) mark point 8.

excess in the waist (13 cm) is eliminated by subtracting a certain amount at the side seams (points 9-10 = 8 cm) and the remaining 5 cm is allocated to the front and rear sutures.

8 – 9 = 8 – 10 = 4cm

99a = 10 – 10a = 1 cm

The drawing of the upper part of the front side seam is drawn by joining points 5 and 9a, and at the back, points 5 and 10a are joined. Joining points 9a and 1 with a curved line forms the belt line of the front of the skirt. In the same way, the belt line of the back of the skirt is drawn, ie they are joined by the dotted line of points 7 and 10a.

10a 11 = 1/2 (710a)

Draw the normal from the point 11 on the belt line and the back seam 3 cm wide and 13-15 cm long.

9a12=1/2(19a)

From point 12, lower the normal to the flank line. At point 12, draw a front sash 2 cm wide and 8-10 cm long.

Since this is a skirt with a lowered waist, measure:

113 = 7 cm

9a14 = 7 cm

Dots 13 i 14 merge with a curve line.

10a15 = 7 cm

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716 = 4,5 cm

Dots 15 and 16 connect with a straight line.

1517 = 17 cm

1618 = 4 cm

Connect points 17 and 18 with a curved line (this line represents the cut line of the back of the skirt). Also, it is necessary to draw all the cuts and contours of the front and back pockets with the pocket bags. Bold contour lines of the front and back of the skirt.

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Picture 16. Construction of the skirt

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Picture 17. Modeling of the skirt

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Picture 18. Completing of the skirt

Belt Structure Description:

12 = (1314) front side + (1516) back side = 43,5 cm.

23 = 10 cm

Using a curve line connect 1 i 3.

14 = (1516), measure on a basic construction.

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43 = 1314, measure on the front foot. The length of the belt, ie point 3, can be adjusted to fit the belt circumference of both socks.

15 = 3,8 cm, due to the width of the appliance.

From point 3, normal to line 34, draw the line upwards. On it, measure the distance as between points 15. Mark point 6.

Draw a parallel curve line with line 1-3, and from point 5.

Bold outline belt contours.

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3

4 5

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Picture 19. Construction of the tailored belt for the skirt

6 cm1,5 cm

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Picture 20. Modeling and completing the tailored belt for the skirt

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23 cm

20,5 cm 20,5 cm

23cm

23 cm 23 cm

20,5 cm 20,5 cm

6 cm

6 cm

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Picture 21. Measuring the belt with the cutting parts of the skrit

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4.3.4. Construction preparation of women's shirt

* NOTE: The construction description applies exclusively to elastin denim

3 cm 5,5 cm

8,5 cm

13,5 cm

10cm

12 cm

12cm

10.5 cm

5.5 cm

5,5 cm 14cm

12,5 cm

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5 cm6 cm 7

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Picture 22. Technical sketch of women's shirt model

The technical representation of the women's shirt is given in Figure 22. The construction of the front and back is shown in Figure 23, the sleeves of Figure 24, the collar with the figure in Figure 25. Modeling and completing of the shirt are presented in Figures 26, 27 and 28.

Size 38

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH= 170 cm

B (Bust) = 91 cm

BL = 73,66 =74 cm

HL = 99,06 cm = 99 cm

LM = 73 cm

NW (neckline width) = 1/ 20 B + 3 cm = 7,5 cm

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LSC (length of sleeve cut) = 1/10 B + 10.5,cm -1cm = 18,6 cm

EL (elbow length) = ¼ BH – 1= 41,5 cm

Belt length = back length+ 20 cm= 61,5 cm

Front length = back length + 1/20 B -0,5 cm = 44,5 cm

Back width = 1/8 B + 5,5 cm + 1 cm =17,9 cm

NW = 1/8 B +2-3 cm = 14 cm

Front line = 1/4 B – 4 cm = 19 cm

Description of the front and rear tailpiece construction:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1 – 2 = LSC = 18,6 cm

1 – 3 = EL = 41,5 cm

1 – 4 = HL = 61,5 cm

1 – 5 = LM = 73 cm

2 – 6 = 1/2( 1 do 2) = 9,3 cm

From dots1, 2, 3, 4, 5 i 6 draw lines to the left at right angles (draw a dashed line from item 6).

1 – 7 = NW = 7,5 cm

7 – 8 = 2 cm

2 – 9 = Beck width = 17,9 cm

9 – 10 =1/2 NW = 7cm

From point 9 raise the normal to the intersection with the neckline and mark the point 11 in the intersection.

11 – 12 = 2 cm

Connect points 8 and 123 in a straight line and extend the line to the left of point 12.

12 – 13 = (1,5 – 2) cm

109

9 – 14 =1/4 sleeve height – 2,6cm = 3,5cm

14 – B = 1cm

Draw a horizontal line through point 6 and mark point 15.

15 – 16 = 15 – 17 = 0,75 cm.

15 – 18 = 6,5 cm

Connect the dots 16, 18 and 17 in straight lines to form a sewing thread.

Draw a vertical line through point 18, and to intersect these lines and belt lines, mark point 19.

19 – 20 = 19 – 21 = 1,5 cm

19 – 22 = 19-23 = 15 cm

Draw a stitch on the back by joining points 22, 20, 23, 21 and 22.

Draw a vertical line from item 10 and mark points 24 and 25.

From point 24, measure 1 cm up and 2.5 cm to the right, and mark point 26.

25 – 27 = 6 cm

27 – 28 = 3 cm, measure to the left of point 27.

Draw the line of the sleeve cutout of the back by joining points 10, B and 13.

Draw a side seam of ice by joining points 10, 26 and 28.

10 – 29 = 10 cm

29 – 30 = 1/2 ŠRI = 7 cm

Increase normal through point 30.

30 – 31 = front width = 19 cm

31 – 32 = 1/10 chest scope + 2,2cm = 11,3 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 32 and mark point 33.

33 – 34 = front length = 44,5 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 31. Draw a horizontal line through item 34 and mark the intersection of this line and the vertical line passing through item 31 with item 35.

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35 – 36 = NW= 7,5 cm

35 – 37 = NW + 1 cm = 8,5 cm

Draw a cutout front notch by joining points 36 and 37 in a straight line.

30 – 38= SH (shoulder height) – 2 cm

From dot 38 draw a bend with a center in dot 30.

38 – 39 = 5,5 cm

39 – 40= shoulder length width – 0,5 cm

40 – 41 = 34 – 36

32 – G = 1,5 cm

Using straight line connect dots G i 41.

G – 42 = G – 41

Using straight line connect dots 36 i 42.

30 – A= (9 – 14) + 1 cm = 3,5 cm

Draw the line of the sleeve cutout of the front by joining the dots 29, A i 39.

33 – 43 = 33 – 44 = 1,5 cm

33 – 45 =33-46 = 15 cm

Draw the front seam by connecting the points 45, 46, 46, 43 and 45.

Draw a vertical line through item 29 and mark items 47 and 48.

From point 47, measure 1 cm up and 2.5 cm to the left and mark point 49.

48 – 50 = 6 cm

50 – 51 = 2 cm

Draw the side seam of the front by joining points 29, 49 and 52.

31-52 = 1,5 cm (this value represents the front clasp accessory).

Draw a vertical line through point 52 and mark points 53 and 54.

5 – 55 = 1/4 (5 – 25) + 1 cm

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Connect points 28 and 55 in a straight line.

28 – 56 = 1/2 (28 – 55)

Draw the hemline of the dorsal junction by joining the points 5, 55, 56 and 28 to connect the dashed line, this is the line.

Mark point 57.

57 – 58 = 1/4 (48 – 57)

Connect points 51 and 58 in a straight line.

51 – 59 = 1/2 (51 – 58)

Draw a front line hem line by joining points 53, 57, 58, 59 and 51.

Draw a dashed line from the point G at right angles to line G - 41 (line to open a new seam) and mark point 60.

Lower the front shoulder height by 1 cm and increase the rear shoulder height by the same amount.

Draw the position of the breast pocket, the pat-cap as well as the front and back cords according to the sketch.

Mark the holes for the holes and draw the locking strip (screwdrivered).

Description of sleeve pattern construction:

EL = 3/8 BH – 2,5cm = 61 cm

SCW (sleeve cut width) = 1/8 chest scope – 1cm + 1cm = 11cm

HS (height sleeve) = (sleeve height back line + sleeve heightfront line)/2 = (17,2 cm + 14,5 cm)/2 = 31,7/2 = 15,85 cm

height of round sleeve = sleeve height – (1/3 sleeve height - 1 cm) = 15,85cm(5,3-1 cm) = 11,5 cm.

height of sleeve length = 21 cm

112

Draw a vertical line and mark the dot 1.

1 – 2 = Height of sleeve length = 11,5 cm

1 – 3 = SL (sleeve length) = 65,5 cm

3 – 4 = 5 cm (cuff width)

Through dots 1, 2 i 4 draw horizontal lines.

1 – 5 = 1 – 6 = 1/2 scope of sleeve cut -0,5 = 19,75 cm

Connect points 1 and 5 in a straight line as points 1 and 6.

4 – 7 = 4 – 8 = 1/2 SSL (scope of sleeve length) +2 cm = 11.5 cm.

Connect points 5 and 7 with a straight line and also connect points 6 and 8 with a straight line.

5 – 9 = 1/3 (1-5) + 1 cm = 7,6 cm

5 – 10 = 1/2 (5-9)

1 – 11 = 1/2 (1-9)

6 – 12 = 1/3 (1-6)

1 – 13 = 1/3 (1-12)

10 – 14 = 0,8 cm

11 – 15 = 1,5 cm

13 – 16 =2 cm

12 – 17 = 1 cm

Draw a sleeve ball by joining points 5, 14, 9, 15, 1, 16, 17 and 6.

Curve lines 5 and 7, then 6 and 8 so that the curved lines are away from straight lines joining the same points up to 1 cm.

8 – 18 = 6 cm

Draw a vertical line (point aperture on the sleeve) through point 18.

18 – 20 = 3 cm

20 – 21 = 2 cm (fold-flare width)

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Bold outline sleeve contours.

Description for cuff structure design:

1 – 2 = scope of sleeve length +1,5 cm (buckle extension) = 22,5 cm.

Draw vertical lines from points 1 and 3.

1 - 4 = 2-3 = 5 cm (cuff width)

Draw the contour lines of the cuff.

Description of collar cut design:

Draw a horizontal line and mark point 1.

1 – 2 = 1/2 scope of necklineback length

2 – 3 = front buckle accessory = 1,5 cm

1 – 4 = (1–8a) scope of neckline back length

Draw a vertical line through point 1.

1 – 5 = 3,5 cm

5 – 6 = 3 cm.

6 – 7 = 5,5 cm (collar width).

Draw horizontal lines from points 5 and 7.

Draw a vertical through point 2 and mark point 8.

8 – 9 = 8 – 10 = 1cm

Draw a vertical point 10 and mark a section with a horizontal line passing through point 7 by point 11.

11 – 12 = 2,5 cm

3 – 13 = 0,8 cm, measure above point 3

Draw contour lines of the well - counts by joining points 1, 4, 13, 9 and 5.

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Draw the contour lines of the collar by joining the points 6, 9, 12 and 7.

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Picture 23. Basic construction of women's shirt with stitches

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Picture 24. Constructiton of sleeves and cuffs of women's shirt with stitches

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Picture 25. Construction of the collar of women's shirt with stitches.

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Picture 26. Modeling and completing women's shirt with stitches

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Picture 27. Modeling and completing women's shirt with stitches

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Picture 28. Modeling and completing the sleeves and cuffs of women's shirt with stitches

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4.3.5. Construction preparation of women's blouses

Picture 29. Tehcnical sketch of women's blouse

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The technical representation of the model is given in Figure 29, the front and back construction in Figure 30, the sleeves in Figure 31, the modeling in Figure 32. The front and back components are presented in Figure 33. The design of the sleeve-length bows and the modeling are shown in Figures 34 and 35. The completion of the sleeves is shown in Figures 36 and 37.

Size M

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH = 170 cm.

B (bust) = 91 cm.

BL = 73,66 = 74 cm.

HL = 99,06 cm = 99 cm.

SL (Shoulder length)= 30 cm

SCL (Sleeve cut length) = 1/10 belt line + 10.5 cm +1 cm= 18,9 cm

Back length = 1/4 BH – 1 cm = 41,5 cm

LM = depends on current fashion styles = 61 cm

Bust height = 1/4 B +3 cm = 25,75 cm

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Shoulder length = depends of the model = 20 cm

SNC (Scope of neckline cut) = 1/10 B + 2 cm = 4.4 + 3 = 7.5 cm

Back scope = 1/8 B + 5.5 cm + 1 cm = 17.9 cm

SSC (Scope of sleeve cut) = 1/8 chest scope + 0.5 cm = 11.9 cm

Front width =1/4 B – 4 cm + 1.5 cm = 20.25 cm

Front height = back length + 4 cm = 45,5 cm

Height of shoulder scope= 1/3 (Shoulder height front length + Shouder length model length)-2,5 cm =9,8 cm

Description of the construction of the rear and front:

1 – 2 = SSC = 18,9 cm

1 – 3 = back length = 41,5 cm

1 – 4 = LM = 61 cm.

From points 1, 2, 3 and 4, draw horizontal lines to the left.

1 – 5 = neckline cut width+1 cm = 7,4 cm

5 – 6 = 2 cm, measure above dot 5.

Draw the neckline of the back end by joining the wrong border of points 1 and 6.

2 – 7 = back width = 17,9 cm.

Draw a vertical line from item 7 and mark item 8.

8 – 9 = 1 cm, measure below point 8.

Connect points 6 and 9 in a straight line and continue to the left.

9 – 10 = 1,5 cm, to the left of point 9.

7 – 11 = 2/3 neckline cut width=7,9 cm

Draw a vertical line from item 11 and mark point 12.

7 – 13 = 1/4 (7 – 9), measure above point 7.

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13 – B = 1,5 cm

Draw the sleeve cutout of the back section by joining the curved line of points 10, B and 11.

11 – 14 = 10 cm

14 – 15 = 1/3 sleeve cut width = 4 cm.

15 – 16 = front width = 20,25 cm.

16 – 17 = 1/10 chest scope +1 cm = 10,1 cm.

17 – G = 1,5 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 16.

Draw a vertical line through point 17 and mark point 18 on the waist line.

18 – 19 = front height = 45,5 cm

Draw a line through point 19 normally and mark the point 20 on the center line of the front.

20 – 21 = 1/20 chest scope – 1 cm = 3,5 cm

Connect points 16 and 21 in a straight line.

21 – 22 = neckline cut width +1 cm = 7,5 cm

21 – 23 = neckline cut width +2 cm = 8,5 cm

Draw a vertical line from item 15.

Draw the neckline of the front by joining points 22 and 23

15-24= Shoulder height back length – 1 cm

Connect points 22 and 24 in a straight line and extend to the right.

22 – 25 = convey shoulder width of back (6-10)

15 – A=1/4 sleeve cut width = 4 cm

Draw the sleeve cutout of the front by joining the curved line of points 14, A and 25.

Draw a vertical line from item 14 and mark dot 26.

14 – 27 = 5 cm.

Draw the opening line of the thorax by joining points 16 and 27.

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Raise the shoulder line of the back by 1 cm and lower the front by 1 cm.

Bold front and back contour lines.

Auxiliary measures for the sleeve:

Height of round shoulder = 1/3 scope of sleeve cut – 4 = 9,6 cm

Scope of sleeve cut = MEASURES ON CONSTRUCTION 27 – A – 8 i 7 – 19 – 18 = 41 cm

Sleeve length = 20 cm

Design of sleeve pattern:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1 – 2 =height of round shoulder = 9,8 cm

1 – 3 = shoulder length = 30 cm

From points 1, 2 and 3, draw horizontal lines to the right.

2 – 4 = 1/2 height of round shoulder – 0,5 cm = 20,5 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 4.

4 – 5 = 1/2 height of round shoulder – 0,5 cm = 20,5 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 5 and mark point 6.

3 – 7 = 1 cm

Connect points 2 and 7 in a straight line.

6 – 8 = 1 cm

Connect points 5 and 8 in a straight line.

2 – 9 = 1/2 (2-4)

2 – 10 = 1/2 (2-9)

4 – 11 = 1/2 (4-9)

11-16=1 cm

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4-12=1/2(4-5)

4-13=1/2 (4-12)

5-14=1/2 (5-12)

10-15=1 cm

11-16=1 cm

13-17=1 cm

14-18=0,5 cm

Draw a sleeve ball by joining points 2, 15, 9, 16, 4, 17, 14, 18 and 5.

Bold outline sleeve contours.

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Picture 31. Construction of women's blouse sleeves

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Picture 32. Opening the bust cut of women's blouse

Picture 33. Modeling neckline of women's blouse

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Picture 34. Modeling and completing and adding stitches to women's blouse

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Description of sleeve modeling

Parallel to the vertical line passing through point 4, but 3 cm to the left of it draw a vertical line and mark points B and C.

7-D = 3 cm

Draw a horizontal line through point D and mark points E and F.

6 - G=1,5 cm

Extend the line connecting points 6 and 7 to the right.

6-H=4 cm

E-I=9 cm

E-J=7 cm

F-K=9 cm

F-L=6 cm

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Picture 35. Modeling of front sleeve of the women's blouse

Parallel to the vertical line passing through point 4, but 3 cm to the right of it draw a vertical line and mark points B and C.

6-D = 3 cm

Draw a horizontal line through point D and mark points E and F.3=G=1,5 cm

Extend the line connecting points 6 and 7 to the left.

3-H=4 cm

E-I=9 cm

E-J=7 cm

F-K=9 cm

F-L=6 cm

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Picture 36. Modeling of the back sleeve of women's blouse bluzu

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Picture 37. Adding the stitches to women's blouse sleeves

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4.3.6. Construction preparation of women's dress model-1

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Picture 38. Technical sketch of women's dress Model-1

The technical sketch of the dress is shown in Picture 38, the front and back construction in Picture 39, the sleeves in Picture 40. Modeling of the front cut of the sheets 41, the interior of the neckline in Picture 42, the completion of the cut in Pictures 43, 44 and 45.

Size M

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH = 170 cm.

B (bust) = 91 cm.

BL = 73,66 =74 cm.

HL = 99,06 cm = 99 cm.

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SCL (sleeve cut length) = 1/10 B + 10.5 cm + 1 cm = 9,1 cm + 10,5 cm + 1 cm = 20,6 cm

Back length = 1/4 BH – 1 cm= 41,5 cm

LM = depends of the model= 90 cm

SL (Shoulder length) = depends of the model = 20 cm

NCW (Neckline cut width) = 1/10 B + 2 cm = 6,5 cm

Back width = 1/8 B + 5,5 cm + 1 cm = 17.9 cm

Sleeve cut width = 1/8 B + 0,5 cm = 11 cm + 0,5 cm = 11,9 cm

Front width =1/4 B – 4 cm + 1,5 cm = 20,25 cm

Front length = back length + 4 cm = 45,5 cm

Description for tailoring the front and back of the dress:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1–2 = Length of sleeve cut = 20,3 cm

1–3 = back length = 41 cm

1–4 = HL = 61,3 cm

1–5 = LM = 90 cm

Draw horizontal lines from points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.

1–6 = NCW = 7,5 cm

6–7 = 2 cm

Draw the neckline of the dorsal junction by joining points 6 and 7.

2 – 8 = Back width = 17,9 cm

Draw a vertical line from item 8 and mark a section with a horizontal line passing through point 1 by point 9.

9–10 = 1 cm

Connect points 7 and 10 with a straight line and extend the line to the left of point 10.

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10–11 = 1,5 cm

8–12 = 2/3 sleeve cut width = 7,9 cm

Draw a vertical line from item 12 and mark points 13 and 14.

8–15 = 1/4 Shoulder height back size

15–B = 1,5 cm

Point 16 is obtained by weighing 1 cm to the right of point 13 on the belt line and then 1 cm above.

Draw the lateral suture of the dorsal joint by joining the straight line of points 12 and 16, and connect the points 16 and 17 with a straight line.

17–17a = 1 cm.

First, form a right angle at point 17a and then draw a line of length for the rear model by joining the dashed line of points 5 and 17a.

Draw a sleeve cutout of the back by joining points 11, B and 12.

12–18 = 15 cm

18–19 = 1/3 neckline cut width = 4 cm

19–20 = front width = 20,25 cm

20–21 = 1/10 chest scope +1 cm = 10,1 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 21 and mark point 22.

22–23 = front height = 45,5 cm.

Draw a vertical line through point 20 and draw a horizontal line through point 23, mark the intersection of these lines with point 24, and mark point 25 with the length of the model.

23–26 = NCW = 7,5 cm

Connect points 20 and 26 in a straight line.

26–27 = NCW + 1 cm = 8,5 cm

Draw a line of neckline of the front of the front of the front by joining the wrong line of points 23 and 27.

27–28 = 10 cm.

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27–29 = 2 cm.

Connect points 28 and 29 with a straight line.

Draw a vertical line through point 19 and mark a cross section with a horizontal line passing through 24, 26 and 23 with point 30

19–31 = (8 –10) –1 cm

Connect points 23 and 31 in a straight line and extend obliquely to the right.

23–32=Shoulder width back side = (7–11) to be measured on the back side.

19–A = 1/4 Sleeve cut width –1 cm = 2,9 cm.

Draw the line of the sleeve cutout of the front by joining points 18, A and 32.

Draw a vertical line from item 18 and mark points 33 and 34.

Point 35 is obtained by weighing 1 cm to the left of point 33 on the belt line and then 1 cm above.

34 –36 = 3 cm, to the right of point 34.

Draw the side seam of the forefoot first by joining the straight line of points 18 and 35 and then connecting the points 35 and 36 with a straight line.

36 – 36a = 1 cm.

First, form a right angle at point 36a and then draw a line of length of the front model by joining the dashed line of points 25 and 36a.

18 – 38 = 5 cm.

Draw a line for opening the thorax by twisting points 20 and 38.

Lower the pedestal shoulder line 1 cm

Raise the shoulder line of the back 1 cm

Draw a pocket.

Bold front and back contour lines.

Description for sleeve construction:

Height of round sleeve =1/3 scope of sleeve cut -4 cm = 9,6 cm

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Scope of sleeve cut = to be measured on a construction 32-A-18 i 12-B-11 = 41 cm

Sleeve length = 20 cm

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1–2 = scope of sleeve height = 9,6 cm

1–3 = sleeve length = 20 cm

From points 1, 2 and 3, draw horizontal lines to the right.

2 – 4 = 1/2 scope of sleeve cut = 20,5 cm

4 – 5 = 1/2 scope of sleeve cut = 20,5 cm

Draw a dotted line through point 4.

Draw a vertical line through point 5 and mark point 6.

3 – 7 = 1 cm

Connect points 2 and 7 in a straight line.

6 – 8 = 1 cm

Connect points 5 and 8 in a straight line.

2 – 9= 1/2 (2-4)

2 – 10 = 1/2 (2-9)

10 –11 = 1 cm

4 – 12 = 1/2(4-9)

12 – 13 = 1 cm

4 – 14 = 1/2 (4-5)

4 –15= 1/2 (4-14)

15 –16 = 1 cm

5 –17= 1/2 (5-14)

17 –18 = 0,5 cm

Draw the so-called. sleeve ball by joining points 2, 11, 9, 13, 4, 16, 14, 18 and 5

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Picture 39. Basic construction of women's dress Model-1

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Picture 40. Construction of the sleeves of women's dress Model-1

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Picture 41. Opening the chest cut of women's dress Model-1

Picture 42. Modeling of neckline of women's dress Model-1

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Picture. 43. Modeling, completing and adding stitches to front side and straightening the neckline cut and pockets of women's dress. Model 1.

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Picture 44. Modeling and completing and adding stitches of back side of women's dress Model 1

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Picture 45. Adding stitches to sleeves of women's dress Model-1

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4.3.7. Construction preparation of women's dress model 2

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Picture 46.The technical sketch of the dress Model-2

The technical sketch of the dress is shown in Fig. 46. The construction of the front and back of Fig. 47, the collar in Fig. 48, the modeling of the front and back in Fig. 49, and the sewing pattern in Figures 50, 51 and 52.

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Size: Breast circumference/scope: S

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH = 168 cm

B (bust) =88 cm

BL = 72 cm

HL = 97 cm

NCW (Neckline cut width) = 1/20 B (bust) + 3 cm =7,4 cm

Sleeve cut length = 1/10 B (bust) + 10,5 cm + 4 cm -5 cm =24,7 cm

Back length = 1/4 BH – 1 cm = 41 cm

Hip length = back length + 20 cm = 61 cm, or as wanted

Front length = back length + 1/20 chest scope = 45,5 cm

Back width = 1/8 + 5,5 cm + 1 cm = 17,5 cm

Sleeve cut width = 1/8 chest scope – 1,5 cm + 3 cm = 12,5 cm

Front width = 1/4 chest scope + 2,5 cm = 20,5 cm

Front length of sleeve = 1/4 body height + 4 cm = 46 cm

Description of the back and front cut patterns:

Mark point 1 and draw the initial vertical line.

1-2 = SCL (sleeve cut length) = 24,7 cm

1-3 = back length = 41 cm

1-4 = HL = 61cm

1-5 = LM = 90cm, measure below point 1 on the vertical line.

Draw the normals to the left of points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.

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From normal point 6, lower the normal to the length of the model, mark point 7 in the cross section.

1–8 = 1/2 (1-2)

Connect points 8 and 6 in a straight line.

In the intersection of this accessory line with the breast line, mark point 9.

1–10 = neckline cut width – 1 cm = 8,4 cm

. Draw a curve of the neckline of the back with a curve.cm21110

9–12 = back width = 17,5 cm

12 – 13 = 1/2 sleeve cut width – 0,5 cm = 5,75 cm

Raise the normal from the point 12 to the neckline, mark the point in the section 14.

14 – 15 = 2 cm

Merge points 11 and 15 and extend the line obliquely to the left.

11 – 16 = shoulder width = 13 cm

12 – 17 = 1/4 shoulder height = 1/4 (12-16)

17 – B = 0,75cm

From point 13, lower the normal to the flank line. In the intersection of this auxiliary line and the belt line, mark point 18, and with the flank line point 19.

13 – 21 = 1/2 (13 – 9)

From point 21, lower the normal to the flank line.

Weigh 18 cm to the left of point 13 and mark point 22.

22 – 23= 1/2 sleeve cut width + 0,5 cm = 6,75 cm

23 –24 = front width = 20,5cm

24 – 25= 1/10 chest scope + 0,5 cm = 9,8 cm

From point 22 lower the normal to the flank line and mark point 26.

From points 23 and 25, raise the normals upwards and lower them to the flank line.

From point 24, raise the normal upwards and lower it to the length of the model.

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Mark points 27, 28 and 29.

25 – G = (2-3) cm. Point G indicates the top of the chest.

29-30 = front length = 44,5 cm

Normally draw the normal passing through point 30 on the center line of the front, so that point 31 is obtained on the center line of the front.

31 – 32 = neckline cut width = 7,4 cm + 1,5 cm = 8,9 cm

31 – 33 = neckline cut width + 2 cm= 9,4 cm

Connect points 32 and 33 with a curve. This line represents the neckline of the front.

23 – 24 = Shoulder height – 2cm

Place the center of the carpenter at point 23 and then draw the bow from point 34 to the right. Also, place the center of the conifer at point G and draw the bow from point 30 to the right.

34 – 35= 1/20 chest scope = 4,4 cm

shoulder width back =11-16 (measured on the back side)3635

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Connect points 37 and G with a straight line.

G – 37 = G-38

Connect points 32 and 38 in a straight line.

23 – 39 = (12-17) + 2 cm

23 – A = 1/4 Sleeve cut width = 2,9 cm 27-40 = 1/4 BL - 1 cm =17 cm.

40-41 Weigh the excess belt and transfer to point 29 where a front suture is formed. The height of the suture above and below point 29 is 15 cm each and the width is 2.5 cm.

Mark the point 42 in the intersection of the belt line and the vertical line from point 22. Form the point 43 1cm above the belt line and 1cm to the left of the auxiliary vertical line passing through point 42.

(40 – 44) = 1/2 BL + 7 cm = 44 cm, (BL = Belt size) a value of 7 cm is an accessory for comfort.

Measure from points 40-43 at the front of the belt line and from points 20 to 44 at the rear.

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Mark point 45 on the belt line, and in the intersection with the vertical auxiliary line starting from point 21. Transfer the excess in the belt measured at the distance between points 6 and 44 to point 45, half the distance to the left of point 45 and half to the right. The stitch should be 15cm above and below the waistline.

Mark point 46 at the intersection of the midline of the front and the flank line.

The intersection of the vertical line joining points 6 and 7 and the flank lines mark point 47.

46 – 48 = 1/4 OB + 2,5 cm = 26,75 cm (OB = Hip size) measure to the right of point 46 on the flank line. A value of 1 cm represents an accessory for comfort.

47 – 49 = 1/4 OB + 2,5 cm = 26,75 cm, (OB = Hip size) measure to the left of point 47 on the flank line. A value of 1 cm is an accessory for comfort.

28 – 50 = (46-48) + 2cm.

7 – 51 = (47-49) + 2 cm

46 – 48 = 49 – 47

24 – 52 = 2 cm, buckle accessory.

Draw a vertical line through point 52 up to the neckline and down to the length of the model.

The front arm is formed by a curve connecting points 35, 39, A and 22.

The dorsal arm is formed by a curve connecting points 16, B and 13.

The anterior lateral suture is formed by joining the points 22, 43, 48 and 50, and the posterior lateral suture by joining the points 13, 20, 49 and 51.

28 – 53 = 1 cm, measure below point 28 (added because of chest).

50 – 54 = 1 cm, measure above point 50.

51 – 55 = 1 cm, measure above point 51.

Connect points 53 and 54 with a curved line.

Use dashed lines to connect points 7 and 55.

Draw a horizontal line through point A.

A – 56 = 6 cm

56 – 57 = 8 cm

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53 – 58 = 10,5 cm

58 – 59 = 8 cm

Draw lines of total width (both sutures) around the drawn lines as a suture at point 29 (suture at point 29 is eliminated.

8 – 60 = 3 cm

Draw a horizontal line through point 60. It is a straight line cutting the back.

Draw a vertical line through points 21 and 45 and then draw a stitch 2 cm wide and 30 cm overall (15 cm above the waistline and 15 cm below the waistline) at 45.

Draw a pocket and cover-patna. The pocket is symmetrically positioned relative to the cutting lines.

Draw a zipper for a 4 cm wide front fastener (screwdrivered).

Bold contour lines.

Description of collar cut design:

Draw a right angle on a dot 1.

1 – 2 = Scope of neckline cut back side = 10 cm

2 – 3 = scope of neckline cut front side = 13 cm

1 – 4 = 1 cm

4 – 5 = 7 cm

Draw a vertical line from point 3, and a horizontal line from point 5, and mark the intersection of these lines with point 6.

3 – 7 = 1 cm

6 – 8 = 1,5 cm

Connect points 7 and 8 in a straight line.

Draw the contour lines of the collar.

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Picture 47. Basic construction of women's dress Model-2

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Picture 48. Modeling of the collar for the dress Model-2

Picture 49. Eliminating stitches on women's dress Model-2

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Picture 50. Modeling, completing and adding the stitches to front part of the dress Model-2

149

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Picture 51. Modeling, completing and adding the stitches to back side of the dress Model-2

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Picture 52. Modeling and completing of the collar for the dress Model-2

0,8 cm

151

4.3.8. Construction preparation of women's jacket

5 cm

11 cm 11 cm 13 cm

17cm

12 cm10 cm

13 cm

13 cm

13cm

10,5

cm

11 cm

13 cm4.5 cm6.5 cm

11 cm7cm

7cm

7cm

7cm

7cm

Picture 53. Technical sketch of women's jacket.

Figure 53 shows a technical sketch of the jacket, the front and back design of Figure 54, the sleeves of Figure 55, the collar of Figure 56. Modeling and completing the jacket pattern are presented in Figures 57, 58 and 59.

Size: S

Main and auxiliary body measurements:

BH = 168 cm

B (bust) = 88 cm

BL = 72 cm

HL= 98 cm

SCL (sleeve cut length) = 1/10 chest scope + 10,5 cm + and extra 5 cm = 24,3 cm

Back length = 1/4 Body height – 2 cm = 40 cm

HL = back length + 20 cm = 60 cm

LM = HL - 12 cm = 48 cm

152

NCW (Neckline cut width) = 1/20 chest scope + 4,5 cm = 7,9 cm

Back width = 1/8 B + 6 cm + extra 3 cm = 20 cm

Scope of sleeve cut = 1/8 B – 1 cm + extra 1,5 cm = 11,5 cm

Front width = 1/4 chest scope – 4 cm + extra 3,5 cm = 21,5 cm

Front length = length of the model + 1/20 chest scope – 1,5 do 2 cm = 42,5 cm

Sleeve length = 3/8 body height = 63 cm

Shoulder height = (shoulder height of the back + shoulder height of the front) / 2

Shoulder height scope = shoulder height – (3/10 shoulder height + 1 cm) = 14,9 cm

Scope of shoulder length = 26 cm.

Description of the construction of the front and back of the jacket:

Mark point 1 and draw the initial vertical line.

1 – 2 = length of sleeve cut = 24,3 cm

1 – 3 = LM = 40 cm

1 – 4 = HL= 60 cm

1 – 5 = LM = 48 cm

1 – 6 = width of neckline cut = 7,9 cm

6 – 7 = 2 cm

Connect points 1 and 7 with a straight line.

2 - 8 = back width = 20 cm

From point 8, draw a vertical line to the neckline and mark point 9.

9 - 10 = 1 to 1,5 cm

Connect points 7 and 10, then extend the line to the left.

8 – 11 = 1/4 shoulder height

11 – B = 1 cm

153

10 – 12 = 2 cm

8 –13 = width of sleeve cut = 11,5 cm

Draw a vertical line from item 13.

13 – 14 = front width = 21,5 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 14 and mark point 15.

15 - 16 = front length = 42,5cm

Draw a horizontal line through point 16 to the intersection with a vertical line passing through point 13 and mark point 17.

16 – 18 = neckline cut width =7,9 cm

16 – 19 = neckline cut width + 1cm = 8,9 cm

Connect points 18 and 19 with a curve.

17 – 20 = 4 cm

Connect points 18 and 20 in a straight line and extend the line to the right.

18 – 21 = (7 do 12) - 0,5 cm

8 – 22 =1/2 (8 do 13)

From point 22 lower the normal to the flank line and mark points 23 and 24.

Points 25 and 26 are symmetrically 1.5 cm to the left and right of points 23 and 1 cm above the belt line.

Points 27 and 28 are located symmetrically 0.75 cm to the left and right of point 24.

13 - A = 4.5 cm

The arm is formed by a curve joining points 12, B, 22, A and 21.

The anterior lateral suture is obtained by connecting the points 22, 25 and 27.

The back side seam is obtained by connecting the points 22, 26 and 28.

1 - 29 = 1/2 (1 - 2) + 1cm

Draw a horizontal line from item 29 and mark item 30.

30 – 31 =1/2 (29 –30) – 1 cm

154

Draw a vertical from point 31 and mark points 32 and 33.

Points 34 and 35 are symmetrically 1.5 cm to the left and right of point 32.

Points 36 and 37 are symmetrically 1 cm to the left and right of point 33.

30 - 38 = 1 cm

29 - 39 = 4 cm

Use dashed lines to connect dots 30-39 and then dots 38-39.

Mark item 40.

Use dashed lines to connect points 36, 34, 40, 35 and 37.

19 – 41 =10 cm

Draw a horizontal line from item 41 and mark item 42.

42 - 43 = 0,5 cm

43 - 44 = 1 cm

Connect dots 42-41 with dashed lines and then 41-44.

43 - 45 = 5 cm

45 - 46 = 10 cm

14-47 = 2 cm, buckle accessory.

Mark point 48.

48 - 49 = 1 cm

Connect points 27 and 49 with a straight line.

49 - 50 = 13 cm

50 - 51 = 3 cm

51-52 = 1 cm

Connect points 46 and 50 in a straight line and mark point 53.

53-54 = 53-55 = 0,5 cm

155

Connect points 46, 54 and 50 with a dashed line and then connect points 46, 55 and 50 with a dashed line.

Connect points 45 and 5 with a straight line and mark point 56.

56-57 = 1 cm.

Connect the dots 45, 57 and 52 with a dashed line.

Lift the back shoulder 1cm, and the front shoulder lower 1cm.

Draw a breast pocket and a pat-lid according to the sketch, also draw holes for the holes according to the sketch

Draw the contour lines of the front and back.

Draw the nails for the pocket opening.

Draw a molding on the front (4 cm wide).

Description of sleeve pattern construction:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1 – 2 = scope of shoulder length = 14,9 cm

1 – 3 = sleeve length = 63 cm

1-4= cuff width= 4 cm

Draw horizontal lines through points 2, 3 and 4.

1 – 5 =1 – 6 = 1/2 scope of sleeve cut – 0,5 cm = 24 cm.

Connect dots 1 and 5 with straight lines, then 1 and 6.

4 – 7 = 4 – 8 = 1/2 Shoulder length width = 13 cm

Connect dots 5 and 7 with straight lines, then 6 and 8.

1– 9 =1/2 (1 – 5) + 0,5 cm

4– 10 =1/2 (4 – 9)

Draw a line normal to the line joining points 4 and 8 through point 10.

10– 11 =1 cm

156

1– 12 =1/2 (1– 9)

Draw a line normal to the line joining points 1 and 8 through point 11.

12 – 13=1,5 cm

1 – 14 = 2/3 (1 – 6) - 1,5 cm

6 – 15 = 1/2 (5 – 14)

15 – 16 = 0,5 cm

1 – 17 = 1/2 (1 –14) – 1 cm

Draw a line normal to the line joining points 1 and 14 through point 17.

17 – 18 = 2 cm

Draw a ball of sleeves by connecting the dots 5, 11, 9, 13, 1, 18, 14, 16 i 6.

8– 19 = 7,5 cm

6– 20 = (22 – 38) + 1 cm (it is measured on the back).

Connect the dots in a straight line19 i 20.

With respect to the straight line joining points 19 and 20, draw two curved lines with a maximum distance of 2 cm from each other.

19 – 21 = 8 cm

Use dashed lines to connect points 5 and 7, then 6 and 8.

4 – 22 = 0,5 cm

In a dotted line, connect points 6, 21 and 7.

Draw the contour lines of the front and back of the sleeves.

Description of collar construction:

Draw a right angle and mark point 1.

1 – 2 = Scope of neckline cutbackside

2 – 3 = Scope of neckline cutfrontside

157

1 – 4 = 1 cm

4 – 5 = 10 cm

Draw a vertical line from point 3 and a horizontal line from point 5, and mark the intersection of these lines with point 6.

3 – 7 = 1 cm

6 – 8 = 1,5 cm

Connect points 7 and 8 in a straight line.

Bold collar contour lines.

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Picture 50. Basic construction of the women's jacket

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Picture 51. Construction of the sleeves of women's jacket

Picture. 52 Construction of the collar of women's jacket

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Picture 53. Modeling, completing and adding the stitches of women's jacket

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26 cmPicture 54. Modeling, completing and adding the stitches to sleeves of women's jacket

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Picture 55. Modeling, completing and adding the collar of women's jacket

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161

4.4. Man's clothes

The following abbreviations were used in the construction of men's clothing:

VT = BH

OP = BL

OB = HL

DM = LM

DK = SL

DS = SD

VK = KH (Knee height)

PŠP = FWP (Front width of paints)

ZŠP = BWP (Back width of paints)

PŠS = FSL (Front seat line)

ŠS = Seat line

ZŠS = BSL (Back seat line)

ONK = Scope of knee line

OND = Scope of sock length

ORILD = Scope of sleeve cut back side

ORIPD= Scope of sleeve cut front side

VRLD = Shoulder height back side

VRIPD = Shoulder height front side

162

4.4.1.Structural preparation for men's Model-1 pants5 cm

16,5 cm

13,5

cm

1,5 cm 8 cmPicture 1. Technical sketch of men's pants

16.5

cm

12,5

cm

1,5 cm17

cm

9cm

6cm

10,5 cm 5 cm 2 cm

6,5c

m

3 cm 6 cm

3,5 cm 5 cm

2 cm

3cm

6 cm

Picture1 shows a technical sketch of the Model-1 trousers, and Pictures 2 show the construction of the front and rear socks of the same trousers. Modeling and completing the tailoring of these trousers is shown in Pictures 3 and 4. The cross-section of the waistband with a tailored belt is shown in Picture 5.

Size 34/34

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH = 180 cm

BL = 86,36 cm = 86 cm

HL = 104 cm

163

LM = 5/8 BH – (2 to5) cm = 110cm

Step length (SL) = 4/8 BH (body height) – (3 to 5) cm = 87cm

Seat Depth = LM – Step length = 23 cm

KH (knee height) = 1/2 Step length + 1/10 Step length = 52 cm

Front width of pants = 1/4 HL – (1 to 2) cm = 24 cm

Back width of pants= 1/4 HL + (3 to 5) cm = 29 cm

FSL (front seat line) = 1/20 HL + (0,5 to 1) cm = 6,2 cm

Seat line = 1/4 HL – (2 to 4) cm = 24 cm

Back seat line= (Seat line– Front seat line) – (7 to 8) cm = 10 cm

Scope of knee line = 46 cm

Scope of sock length = 38 cm

Description of construction of front and rear socks:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1 – 2 = SD = 23 cm

1 – 3 = LM = 110 cm

3 – 4 = Knee height (KH) = 52 cm.

2 – 5 = 1/20 HL + (0 until 1) cm = 5,8 cm

Draw horizontal lines to the right from points 1, 2, 3,4 and 5.

5 – 6 = Front width of pants = 24 cm

6 – 7 = 0,5 cm

6 – 8 = Front seat line = 6,2 cm.

8 – 9=1/2 (5-8).

10 – 11 = 1/2 Scope of knee line – 2 cm = 21 cm.

12 – 13=1/2 Scope of sock length– 2 cm = 17 cm.

164

Merge points 10, 12 and 5. Then merge points 13, 11 and 8.

Mark point 14.

Draw a vertical through point 6 and mark point 15.

15 – 16 = 1/3 (6 – 15).

Connect dots 14 and 16.

Mark dot 17.

17 – 18 = 1,5 cm.

Connect dots 18, 7 and 14.

18 – 19 = 1/4 BL – (1 until 3) cm = 19,5 cm

19 – 20 = 1 cm.

Draw a side seam by joining points 10, 5, 10 and 12.

Given that this is a model with a lowered waist to measure:

20 – 21 = 5cm.

18 – 22 = 5cm.

Connect points 21 and 22 with a straight line.

Draw a semicircular pocket, underlay pocket, small pocket and pocket bag toward the skis

To bold the contour lines of the front sock.

From point 14, weigh 10cm to the right and draw point 2 and a vertical line passing through it. Then transfer points 10, 11, 12, 13 and 8 with the lines connecting them.

10 – 23 = 2 cm.

11 – 24 = 2 cm.

12 – 25 = 2 cm.

13 – 26 = 2 cm.

Connect dots 23 - 25,25-24 with straight lines, then 24 and 26.

2 – 27= 3,5cm.

165

9 – 28= 2cm

28 – 29 = 1/20 HL + (4 until 7) cm = 10,7 cm.

28 – 30 = 1/4 HL + 5 cm = 31 cm.

28 – 31= 28 – 30.

Connect points 27 and 29 in a straight line and then draw a normal line from point 29 on a previously drawn line.

Connect points 24 and 31, and the intersection of this line and the seat line mark point 32.

Connect the points 23 and 30 and extend the line to the belt line, and mark the lines and waist lines with point 33.

Mark 34 on the knee line.

34 – 35= (34 – 33) + (1 – 3) cm = 67 cm.

Connect dots 35 and 36.

35 – 37 = 1/2 belt size + (1 until 3 cm) + 1,5 cm (to stitch) = 25 cm.

In the half of the line joining points 35 and 37, draw a sash 1.5 cm wide and 6 in length.

Draw the contour of the curve of the line passing through points 23, 30 and 37 (form the line of the lateral suture).

24 – 38 = (11 – 14 ) measured at the front.

Connect points 24 and 38 in a straight line.

Given that this is a model with a lowered waist to measure:

35 – 39 = 5 cm.

37 – 40 = 5 cm.

Connect points 39 and 40 in a straight line.

39 – 41 = 7 cm.

40 – 42 = 3 cm.

166

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Picture 2. Basic construction of men's pants Model-1

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Picture 3. Modeling and completing the front legs of women's pants Model-1

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Picture 4. Modeling and completing the back legs of women's pants Model -1

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Picture 5. Belt measuring with cut pieces of men's pants Model -1

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4.4.2.Structural preparation for Model-2 men's pants

4 cm

3 cm

Picture 6. Technical sketch of men's pants Model-2

2,5 cm

20cm

5cm

6cm

10 cm 4 cm 2 cm

8cm

3,5 cm 7 cm

4,5 cm 4 cm

10 cm

3 cm

2cm

17,5

cm

18cm

20 cm

9,5 cm

Picture 6 shows a technical sketch of the Model-2 trousers, and Pictures 7 show the front and rear legs of the same trousers. Modeling and completing the tailoring of these trousers is shown in Pictures 8 and 9. Cross-sectioning of the waistband with a tailored belt is shown in Picture 10.

Size 34/33

Main and ancillary measures:

BH = 180 cm

BL = 86 cm

171

HL = 104 cm

LM = 5/8 BH – (2 to 5) cm = 110 cm

Step length = 4/8 BH – (6 to 7) cm = 84 cm

SD = LM – Step length = 26 cm

Knee height = 1/2 Step length + (4 to 6) cm = 46 cm

Front width of pants = 1/4 HL + (1 to 4) cm = 27 cm

Back width of pants = 1/4 HL+ (3 to 4) cm = 30 cm

Front seat line = 1/20 HL +(0,5 to 1) cm = 6 cm

Seat line = 1/4 HL – (2 to 4) cm= 24 cm

Back seat line = (Seat line – Front seat line) – (6 to 9) cm = 9 cm

Scope of knee line = 50 cm

Scope of sock length = 44 cm

Description of the front and back sock construction:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1 – 2 = SD = 26 cm

1 – 3 = LM = 110 cm

3 – 4 = KH = 46 cm

2 – 5 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm = 6,2 cm

Draw horizontal lines from points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.

5 – 6 = 1/4 HL + 1 cm= 27 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 6.

6 – 7 = 0,5 cm

6 – 8 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm = 6,2 cm

5 – 9 = 1/2 (5-8)

172

Mark the point 10 on the knee line.

10 – 11 = 10 – 12 = 1/4 Scope of knee line– 0,75 cm = 11,75 cm

13 – 14 = 1/2 Scope of sock length – 1,5 cm = 20,5cm

Connect points 5, 11,13, 14 12 and 8 in straight lines.

Mark the point 15 on the seat depth line.

Draw a vertical line through point 6 and mark points 16 and 17.

16 – 18 = 1/3 (6 – 16)

Connect dots 15 and 18.

17 – 19 = 1,5 cm

Connect dots 19 and 7 with straight line, and connect points 7 and 15 with a straight line.

19 – 20 = 1/4 BL – 1cm = 20,5 cm

20 – 21 = 1cm

Connect points 19 and 21 with a straight line.

Draw the line of part of the side seam by joining points 11, 5, and 21.

Since these are pants with lowered waist, measure:

19 – 22 = 5 cm

21 – 23 = 5 cm

Connect the dots 22 and 23 by the dashed line.

Draw a semicircular pocket, a small pocket, a hem of a semicircular pocket and a pocket bag according to the sketch.

Bold outline the front sock lines.

From point 8, weigh 10cm to the right and draw point 2 and the line passing through it. Then transfer points 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 and the lines joining points 11 -13, 13 - 14, 14 - 12.

11 – 24 = 1,5cm

12 – 25 = 1,5cm

13 – 26 = 1,5cm

14 – 27 = 1,5cm

173

Connect the dots 24 - 26, 27 - 25 with straight lines,

2 – 28 = 5 cm

9 – 29 = 1 cm

29 - 30 = 1/10 HL + 2 cm = 9,4 cm

30- 31 = 1/4 HL + 6 cm = 32 cm

29 – 32= 29 – 31

Connect points 28 and 30 with a straight line and then draw a normal line with respect to this line from point 30.

Connect points 25 and 32 in a straight line.

25 - 33 = (12 - 15) at the front.

Connect points 30 and 33 with a straight line.

In a straight line, connect points 24 and 31, then extend the hoop to the belt line and mark point 34.

10 – 35 = (10 – 34) + 5 cm = 72 cm

Connect points 34 and 35 in a straight line.

35 – 36 = 1/4 BL +1 cm +1,5 cm = 24 cm

Draw the line of part of the side seam by joining points 24, 31 and 37.

Given that this is a model with a lowered waist to measure:

35– 38 = 5 cm

37 – 39 = 5 cm

Connect lines 38 and 39 in a straight line.

Merge points 25 and 33 and form the contour line of the step part.

38 – 40 = 7 cm

39 – 41 = 3,5 cm

Connect points 41 and 42 in a straight line.

Draw a pocket on the back of the sock according to the sketch.

Bold contour lines of the rear sock.

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Picture 7. Basic construction of men's pants Model-2

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Picture 8. Modeling, completing, adding seams andhem of the front legs of men's pants Model-2

176

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Picture 9.Modeling, completing, adding stitches and hem of the back legs of men's pantsModel-2

177

24,5 cm 24,5 cm

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Picture 10. Belt measuring with cut pieces of men's pants Model-2

178

4.4.3. Structural preparation for Model-3 men's pants

5c m

Picture 11. Technical sketch of men's pants Model-3

15 cm

17cm 14

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13cm

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9cm

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Figure 11 shows a technical sketch of the Model-3 pants, and figures 12 of the front and rear sockets of the same pants. Modeling and completing the tailoring of these trousers is shown in Figures 13, 14 and 15. The cross-section of the waistband with a tailored belt is shown in Figure 16.

179

Size 34/32

Main and auxiliary body measurements:

BH = 180 cm

BL = 86 cm

HL = 104 cm

Pants length=5/8 BH (body height) – (2 to 5) cm = 110 cm

Step length =4/8 BH (body height) = 81 cm

SD= pants length – step length = 23 cm

KH (Knee height) = 1/2 step length + (6 to 10) cm =5 2 cm

Front width of pants = 1/4 HL +1cm = 26,6 cm

Back width of pants = 1/4 HL + (3 to 5) cm = 30,6cm

Front seat line = 1/20 HL + (0,5 to 2) cm = 6,7cm

Seat line = 1/4 HL – (2 to 4) cm= 24cm

Back seat line = (Seat line-Front seat line) – (5 to 10) cm =(24-6,7) – (5 to 10) cm = 17,3-(5 to10) cm =7 ,8cm

Scope of knee line = 42 cm

Scope of sock length = 30 cm

Description of front sock construction:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1–2 = SD = 23 cm

1–3 = pants length = 110 cm

3–4 = KH = 52 cm

2–5 = 1/20 HL + 1 cm = 5,5 cm

Draw the horizontal lines from points 1,2,3, 4 and 5.

180

5–6 = front width of pants = 26,6 cm

From point 6 pull the normal up to the waist line and down to the seat depth line and mark points 7 and 8.

6–9 = 0,5cm

6–10 = front seat line = 6,7 cm

5–11 = 1/2 (5-10)

Draw a vertical line through point 11 and mark points 12 and 13.

12–14 = 12–15 = ¼ scope of knee line –1 cm = 9,5 cm

13–16 = 13–17 = 1/4 scope of sock length –1 cm = 6,5 cm

Connect dots 10, 15, 17, 16, 14 and 5 in straight lines.

Mark the intersection of the horizontal line passing through point 2 (seat depth lines) and the line joining points 10 and 15 with point 18.

7—19 = 1/3 (7-6)

Connect points 18 and 19 in a straight line.

8–20 = 2 cm

In a straight line, connect points 20 and 9 and draw the contour of the curve from point 9 to point 18.

Use dashed lines to connect points 15 and 18.

20–21 = 1/4 waist line – 1 cm = 20,5 cm

21–22 = 1 cm

Draw the front belt belt line by connecting points 20 and 22 with a curved line.

Connect points 22, 5 and 14 along the dotted line.

Connect points 18 and 15 along the dotted line.

In the sketch of the model of the pants, the belt is lowered so that points 20 and 22 should be lowered as follows:

20–23 = 5 cm

22–24 = 5 cm

181

Connect the dots 23 and 24 with the dashed line (front belt lower belt line).

In the sketch of the model, the pants are shortened so that points 16 and 17 should be raised as follows:

16–25 = 6,5 cm

17–26 = 6,5 cm

From point 10, measure 10 cm to the right and mark points 2 and 5 and draw a vertical line through these points, then convey points 11 and 12 and draw a vertical line through these points. Finally transfer points 14, 15, 16 and 17 and connect the points 14-16, 15 -17 in straight lines.

14–27 = 2 cm

15–28 = 2 cm

16–29 = 2 cm

17–30 = 2 cm

2–31 = 3 cm

11–32 = 2 cm

32–33 = 1/20 HL + 4 to 7cm = 10 cm

32–34 = 1/2 (back width of pants + back seat line) = 19,2 cm

32–35 = 32–34

Connect the points 27 and 34 with a straight line and mark the intersection of this line and the waist line with point 36.

12–37= (12-36) + 5 cm

Merge points 36 and 37.

37–38 = 1/4 BL +1,5 cm +1 cm = 24 cm

38–39 = 1 cm

Connect points 37 and 39 in a straight line.

Draw a stitch 1.5 cm wide and 6 cm long between the points 37 and 39 in the middle of the distance.

Connect points 27, 34 and 39 with a curved line.

182

Connect points 28 and 35 in a straight line.

28–40 = 15–18 (measure 15–18 on front construction).

Connect points 28 and 40 with a dashed line.

Connect points 33 and 40 with a dashed line.

As with the front sock, lower the belt as follows:

37–41= 5 cm

39–42 = 5 cm

Connect points 42 and 41 in a straight line.

Given that the front sock is 6.5 cm shorter, the rear sock should be shortened by the same amount.

29–43 = 6,5 cm

30–44 = 6,5 cm

According to the sketch, the front sock is cut into several pieces, so that we can measure the model according to the sketch as follows.

14–45 = 14–46 = 15–47 = 15–48 = 5 cm

Connect points 46 and 48 in a straight line.

12–49 = 11 cm

Connect points 45, 49 and 47 with a straight line.

46–50 = 48-51 = 6 cm

Connect points 50 and 51 in a straight line.

18–52 = 5 cm

Draw a horizontal line from item 52 and mark items 53 and 54.

53–55 = 4 cm

Connect points 52, 55 and 54 with a straight line.

41–56 = 6,5 cm

42–57 = 4,5 cm

183

Connect points 56 and 57 in a straight line.

Draw a semicircular pocket on the front sock, draw a front pocket pocket, front pocket bag, draw a pocket position on the back sock, bold outline lines of the front and back socks.

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Picture 12. Basic construction of men's pants Model-3

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Picture 13. Modeling men's pants Model -3

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Picture 14.Completing, adding seams and hem at the front legs of men's pants Model-3

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Picture 15. Completing, adding seams and hem at the back legs of men's pants Model-3

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26 cm 26 cm

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cm23,5 cm

23,5 cm26 cm 26 cm23,5 cm

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Picture 16. Belt measuring with cut pieces of men's pants Model-3

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4.4.4. Structural preparation for Model-4 men's pants

4,5 cm

3 cm2,5 cm

3,5 cm13 cm

Picture 17. Technical sketch of men's pants Model-4

3,5 cm

5cm

17,5 cm

13cm

8,75 cm 8,75 cm

3cm

2,5 cm

15cm

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Figure 17 shows a technical sketch of Model-4 pants, and figures 18 of the front and rear sockets of the same pants. The construction of the front and back pockets is presented in Figure 19. Modeling and completing the tailoring of these trousers is shown in Figures 20 and 21. The cross-section of the waistband with a tailored waistband is shown in Figure 22.

Size 34/33

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH = 180 cm

BL = 86 cm

HL = 104 cm

Scope of knee line =46 cm

SCOPE OF SOCK LENGTH = 38 cm

LM = 5/8 BH (body height) – (2 to 5) cm = 110cm

SD= 1 / 4 hip line = 26 cm

Step length = 4/8 BH (body height) – (3 to 5) cm = 84 cm

KH (Knee height) = 1/2 step length - 1/10 step length = 50,4 cm

Front width of pants =1/4 hip size-1cm = 25 cm

Back width of pants = 1/4 hip line + 1 cm = 27 cm

Front seat line = 1/20 hip line +3 cm = 8,2 cm

Construction of front and rear socks:

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1-2 = 1,5 cm

1-3= SD = 26 cm

3-4 =s tep length = LM-SD = 84 cm

4-5 = KH (knee height) = 1/2 step length + 1/10 step length = 50,4 cm

190

3–6 = Front seat line = 8,2 cm

From points 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, draw horizontal lines to the right.

6–7 = front width of pants= 25 cm.

Draw a vertical line through point 7 and mark points 8 and 9.

7–10 = 1/20 HL = 5,2 cm

6–11 = 1/2 (6-10)

Draw a vertical line through point 11 and mark points 12 and 13.

12–12a = 12-12b = 1/4 scope of knee line -1cm = 10,5 cm

13–13a = 13-13b = scope of sock length-1 cm = 8,5 cm

Connect dots 6, 12a, 13a, 13b, 12b and 10 with straight lines.

Mark point 14.

8–15 = 1cm

Connect points 8 and 7 with a straight line and points 7 and 14 with a straight line.

Connect points 1 and 15 with a straight line.

15–16 =1/4 BL+ 2 cm = 23,5 cm

Mark the intersection of the center line and the belt line with point 17, and draw the stitch by measuring left and right by point 1 cm.

17–18 = 9 cm

12b–19 = 1/2 (12b–14), and from point 19, draw a horizontal line of length and then draw a curved line between points 12b and 14.

Connect points 16-6-12a with a dashed line.

From point 10, measure 10 cm to the right, then draw the front again and mark points 3, 11, 12, 12a, 12b, 13a and 13b.

12a–20 = 2cm

12b–21 = 2cm

13a–22 = 2cm

191

13b–23= 2 cm

Connect points 20, 22, 23 and 21 in straight lines.

11–X = 2 cm

X–24 = 1/4 back width of pants = 6,8 cm

3–3a=3 cm

Connect points 3a and 24 in a straight line.

From point 24, draw a line at right angles to the line joining points 3a and 24.

24–25 = back width of pants = 27 cm

Connect points 20 and 25 in a straight line, and a cross section with a belt line indicates point 26.

12–27 = (12-26) + 2cm, point 27 is obtained in section with a line starting from point 24.

Connect points 26-27 in a straight line.

27–28 = 1/4 belt line +2 cm = 23,5 cm

28–29 = 1 cm

Connect points 27 and 29 in a straight line.

X–30 = X–25

Connect points 21 and 30 in a straight line.

21–31 = (12b–14) measured at the front.

Connect points 21 and 31 with a straight line. The line joining points 23, 21 and 31 is the step line of the back of the sock.

Connect points 29, 25 and 20 with a dashed line.

27–32 = 1/2 (29-27)

From point 32, draw a line normal to the line joining points 27 and 29.

32–33 = 5 cm

At point 32, measure left and right 1 cm each and draw a seam on the back of the pants.

The model is with a lowered waist so you should measure:

192

15–34 = 4 cm

16–35 = 4 cm

Connect points 34 and 35 with a straight line.

29–36 = 4 cm

27–37 = 4 cm

Connect points 36 and 37 in a straight line.

36–38 = 3 cm

37–39 = 5 cm

Connect points 38 and 39 in a straight line.

Bold contour lines of the front and back of the pants.

Draw pockets on the front and back.

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Picture 18. Basic construction of men's jeans pants Model-4

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Picture 19.Modeling men's pants Model-4

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Picture 20. Completing the front legs of men's pants Model-4

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Picture 21. Complete, add seams and hem the back of the men's pants Model-4

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24,5 cm

23,5 cm

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Picture 22.Belt measuring for Men's pants Model-4

198

4.4.5. Structural preparation for men's shirts

13 cm

6,5 cm

6,5 cm

6 cm9 cm

5,5 cm

13 cm

7,5 cm

11 cm

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cm

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Picture 23. Technical sketchof a men's shirt

199

Figure 23 shows a technical sketch of the men's shirt, and figures 24 of the front and back of the men's shirt, figure 25 of the sleeve structure, and of figure 26 of the collar construction. Modeling and completing are shown in Figures 27, 28,29,30 and 31.

Main and ancillary measures of the body:

BH = 172cm

Chest scope (BUST) B =1 00 cm

WL (Waist line) = 88cm

HL(hip line) = 106 cm

Neck scope = 40 cm

SCL (Sleeve cut length) = 1/10 B (bust) + 12cm + 3 cm = 25cm

EL (Elbow length) = 1/4 BH+2 cm = 45 cm

LM= l /2 BH - 9 cm = 77 cm

NCS (Neckline cut scope) = 1/6 neck scope +1,4 cm = 8 cm

Front height = SCL -1 cm = 24 cm

Back width = 2 /10 BL - 1 cm+2 cm = 21 cm

Sleeve cut width = l /10 BL+2 cm=16,5 cm

Front width = 2 /10 BL - 1 cm+1 cm =20 cm

Description of the construction of front and back cut:

Draw a vertical and mark point 1.

1-2 = SCL =25 cm

1-3 = EL =45 cm

1-4 = LM =77 cm

From points 1, 2, 3 and 4, draw horizontal lines to the right.

2-5 = back width = 21 cm

200

5-6 = sleeve cut width =16,5 cm

6-7 = front width =20 cm

Draw a vertical line from item 5 and mark point 8.

2–9 = 1/2 (2–7)

Draw a vertical line from point 9 and mark points 10 and 11.

1–12 =neckline cut scope = 8 cm

12–13 = 2 cm

Draw a notch cutout of the back by joining points 1 and 13 with a curved line.

8–14 = 2 cm

Connect points 13 and 14 in a straight line and extend to the left of point 14.

14–15 =1,5 cm

5–16= 1/4 sleeve cut length = 6,25 cm

16–B = 1,5 cm

Connect the dots 9, B and 15 with a straight line, this is the back sleeve cutout line.

Draw a vertical line from dot 6.

6–17 = front height = 24 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 7, and draw a horizontal line through point 17, mark the intersection of these lines with point 18.

18–19 = neckline cut scope = 8 cm

18–20 = neckline cut scope + 1 cm = 9 cm

Connect points 19 and 20 with a dashed line, this is the front neckline.

17–21 = 4 cm

Connect points 19 and 21 in a straight line and extend it obliquely to the right.

19–22 = (13–15)

6–A = 1/4 sleeve cut width –1 cm = 3,1 cm

201

In the dotted line connect points 9, A and 22, this is the front sleeve cutout line.

10–23 = 10–24 = 1 cm

11–25 = 6 cm

Straight line to connect points 9 and 23, then 23 and 25, this is the line of the side seam of the back.

Straight line to connect points 9 and 24 and then 24 and 25, this is the side seam line of the front.

4–26 = 1/4 (4–11)

Connect points 25 and 26 in a straight line.

25–27 = 1/2 (25-26)

Connect points 4, 26, 27 and 25 in a straight line, this is the back line.

Mark point 28.

28–29= 1/4 (11-28)

Connect points 25 and 29 in a straight line.

25–30 = 1/2 (25-29).

Connect points 28, 29, 30 and 25 in a straight line, this is the front hemline.

1–31 = 7 cm

Draw a horizontal line from point 31 and mark point 32.

32–33 = 11 cm

32–34 = 1,5 cm

Connect points 33 and 34 with a straight line.

20–35 = 28–36 = 1,5 cm, attachment for clasp.

Lower the shoulder seam line 1,5 cm and lift the back seam line 1,5 cm.

Draw the holes for the holes and the front pocket.

Bold front and back contour lines.

202

Description for sleeve pattern construction:

Scope of sleeve cut = scope of sleeve cut back side + scope of sleeve cut front side = 50 cm.

Shoulder height scope = 1/3 scope of sleeve cu t– (4 – 6) cm = 12,56 cm

Scope of sleeve length = 27 cm

Sleeve length = 67 cm

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1–2 = shoulder height scope = 12,56 cm

1–3 = sleeve length = 67 cm

3–4 = 5,5 cm (cuff width)

Draw hotizontal lines through points 2 and 4.

1–5 = 1/2 scocpe of sleeve cut -0,25 cm = 24,75 cm

1–7 =1/2 scope of sleeve cut -0,25 cm = 24,75 cm

1–6= 1/2 (1–5 )

1–8 = 1/2 (1–7)

4–9 = 4–10 = 1/2 scope of sleeve length+1,5 cm= 15 cm

10–11 = 7 cm

11–12 = 12 cm (the length of the cut-out on the sleeve)

4–13 = 2,5 cm

13–14 = 3 cm (flare width).

On the basic structure, measure the distance 9-A and transfer to the sleeve, (measure on the sleeve circle from point 5 to point 6).

203

Design of collar cut:

Draw a right angle and mark point 1.

1–2 = neckline cut scope back side+neckline cut scope front side=22,5 cm

1–3 = neck scope back side

1–4 = 1,5 cm

4–5 = 3,5 cm.

5–6 = 5 cm

Draw a vertical line from point 2, and draw a horizontal line from point 6, mark the intersection of these lines with point 7.

2–8 = 3,5 cm

8–9 = 0,5 cm

2–10 = 0,3 cm

3–11 = 0,7 cm

2–12 = 1,5 cm

12–13 = 0,6 cm

Connect the dots 4, 11, 10, 13, 9 and 5 with a dashed line.

7–13 = 0,3 cm

In a dotted line, connect points 6 and 13 and continue to the left.

13–14 = 1,5 cm

Connect points 14 and 9 with a curvature.

Bold collar contour lines.

204

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Picture 24.Basic construction of a men's shirt

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Picture 25. Sleeve Design for Men's Shirts

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Picture 26. constructionCollar

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1,5 cm Picture 27.Drawing details on a men's shirt

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Picture 28. Modeling, completing, adding seams and hem on the fronts of a men's shirt

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Picture29. Modeling, completing, adding seams and hem to the back of the men's shirt2 cm

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Picture 30. Modeling, completing adding to the sleeves of a man's shirt

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Picture 31. Completing and adding seams on a a collar of men's shirt

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4.4.6. Structural preparation of men's jackets

2 cm

9,5 cm

7cm

14 cm

8 cm

12 cm

4 cm

14 cm

9 cm

18 cm7 cm

Picture 32. Technical sketch of a man's jacket

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10.5 cm

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cm

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m

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4 cm

211

Figure 32 shows a technical sketch of a men's jacket, and figures 33 of the front and back sections of the men's jacket, Figures 34 sleeves and figure 35 of the collar. Modeling and completing, shown in Figures 36, 37 and 38 and 39.

Main and ancillary measures:

Size M

BH = 180 cm

Chest scope (B) = 102 cm

BL = 92 cm

HL (hip line) = 109 cm

EL = 1/4BH+1 cm = 46 cm

SCL (Sleeve cut length) = 1/10 chest scope + 12 cm = 22,2 cm

HL = 3/8 (BH) body height = 66 cm

Front height = sleeve cut length –2,5 cm = 25,7 cm

Neckline cut scope = 1/20 chest scope + 3,5 cm = 8,6 cm

Back width = 1/10 chest scope +13 cm = 22,2cm

Sleeve cut width = 1/8 chest scope + (5–7) cm = 17,5cm

Front width = 2/10 chest scope + 3 cm = 23,4 cm

Description of the construction of front and back cut:

Nacrtati vertikalnu liniju i obeležiti tačku 1.

1–2 = SCL = 22,2 cm

1–3 = EL= 46 cm

1–4 = HL= 66 cm

4–5 = belt width = 4 cm

Draw horizontal lines from points 1,2,3,4 and 5

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1–6 = Nekcline cut scope = 8,6 cm

6–7 = 2 cm

Connect points 1 and 7 with a straight line, that is, the neckline of the back.

2–8 = back width = 22,2 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 8 and mark point 9.

9–10 = 2 cm

10–11 = 2,5 cm

8–12 = 1/4 shoulder height back side

12–B = 1 cm

8–13 = Sleeve cut width = 17,5 cm

13–14 = front width = 23,4 cm

Draw a vertical line through point 14.

14-15 = 1/2 (13-8) + 1,5 cm

Draw a vertical line from dot 13.

13–16 = front height = 25,7 cm

Draw a horizontal line from item 16 and mark item 17.

17–18= neckline cut scope = 8,6 cm

17–19 = neckline cut scope +1 cm = 9,6 cm

Connect points 18 and 19 with a straight line, that is, the front neckline.

16–20 = 6,5 cm

Connect points 18 and 20 in a straight line and extend to the right.

18–21 = ŠRLD (7–11 mereno na leđnom delu)

13–22 = 1/3 sleeve cut width– 0,5 cm = 3,5 cm

22–A = 1 cm

The dotted line connects points 11, B, 15, Ai 21. This is the line of the front and back arms.

213

Draw a vertical line from item 15 and mark item 23.

23–24 = 2,5 cm, then connect points 15 and 24 in a straight line.

23–25 = 2,5 cm, then connect points 15 and 25 in a straight line.

14–26 = 2 cm (buckle accessory).

Draw a vertical line through point 26 and mark point 27.

27–28 = 1 cm

At point 28, form a right angle and then connect points 24 and 28 with a dashed line.

19–29 = 14 cm

Draw a horizontal line through point 29, which is the cutting line of the front.

29–30 = 9,5 cm

30–31 = 8 cm

28–32 = 12 cm

32–33 = 2 cm

Connect the dots 30 and 32 with straight lines, followed by 31 and 33. These two lines indicate the cutting points of the front of the jacket.

1–34 = 14 cm

Draw a horizontal line through point 34 and mark point 35.

35–36 = 1,5 cm

Connect points 34 and 36 with a curve and a line. This line is a line of cutting of the back.

36–37 = 9 cm

5–38 = 9 cm

Connect points 37 and 38 in a straight line, and then connect them with curved lines, so that a 2 cm total width is formed on the belt line.

Draw a breast pocket with a lid-pat on the sketch, then draw a pocketed pocket as well as a pocket of base material and lining. The pocketed pocket is parallel to the line joining points 31 and 33 and is 15 cm long.

Mark holes for holes.

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Draw a dashed line parallel to the line passing through points 19, 26, 27 and 28 on the right, and draw the part between these two lines (the screwed part is the lapel jacket).

Lower the shoulder seam by 1 cm and lift the back by 1 cm.

Bold contour lines like all internal lines (cuts and other cut pieces).

Description of sleeve pattern construction:

Shoulder height = (shoulder height back side + shoulder height back side) /2

Shoulder height scope = 2/3shoulder height = 16,4 cm

Sleeve length = 3/8 BH (body height) - 2 cm = 64 cm

Scope of sleeve cut = scope of sleeve cut back side+ scope of sleeve cut front side

Scope of sleeve cut length = 28 cm

Draw a vertical line and mark point 1.

1–2 = shoulder height scope

1–3 = sleeve length = 64 cm

3–4 = cuff width = 3,8 cm.

1–5 = 1/2 scope of sleeve cut–2 cm

1–6 = 1/2 scope of sleeve cut – 2cm

4–7 = 1/2 scope of sleeve length = 14 cm

4–8 = 1/2 scope of sleeve length = 14 cm

7–7a = 1 cm

8–8a = 1 cm

Connect dots 5 and 7a with straight lines, then 6 and 8a.

5–9 = 1/3 (1-5) + 2 cm = 11,25 cm

5–10 = 1/2 (1-9)

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10–11= 0,5 cm

1–12 = 1/2 (1-9)

12–13 = 1,5 cm

1–14 = 1/3 (1-6)

14–15 = 2 cm

6-16= 1/2 (6-14)

16–17 = 1 cm

6–18 = (15-36) (measure on the back side) + 0,5 cm

8a–19 = 7 cm

Connect the points 18 and 19 in a straight line. This is the line for cutting the sleeves.

19–20 = 11 cm

Bold outline sleeve contours.

Description of collar cut design:

The right angle is first formed and the point 1 is marked.

Measure the circumference of the neckline of the back and the circumference of the neckline of the front without the attachment.

Neckline cut scope back side = (1–7), measured by the bend in the neckline of the back + 1 cm

Neckline cut scope front side = (18–19), measured by the curve on the neckline of the front.

To the left of the origin, measure the value of half the circumference of the neckline and mark point 2.

1–2 = 1/2 (1–7) + 1 cm + (18–19)

1–3 = 1 cm

3–4 = 7 cm

Raise normal from point 2.

2–6 = 8 cm

216

2–5 = 1 cm

6–7 = 1,5 cm

1–8 = (1–7) + 1 cm

To thicken the outline of the collar.

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

1315

1617 18

2021

2324 252728

30 31

32 33

343536 37

38

11

12B

7cmPodžep - pomoćni materijal

22 A

4cm

1 cm

1 cm

14

19

29

26

5cm

11cm

39

40 41

1 5cm

Picture 33. Basic construction of men's jacket

217

+

2

3

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5 6

7 8

1

9

12

13

14

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1710

11

18

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7a 8a

2 cm

8cm

28 cmPicture 34. Basic sleeve construction for men's jacket

3

4

12

67

58

Picture 35.Men's jacket collar construction

218

0,8 cm1,8 cm

0,8 cm

0,9 cm

1,1

cm

1,5

cm

1,8 cm

1,1 cm

0,9

cm

1,1 cm

1,8

cm

1,8

cm

1,8 cm 1,8 cm

1,8

cm1,1 cm

0,9

cm

1,1 cm

1,5

cm

1,5

c m

1,5 cm1,5 cm

2X

2X

2X

0,8 cm

0,8

cm

0,8

cm

2X

2X

2X 2X 2X

0,9 cm

1,1

cm

1,5

cm

1,8 cm

2X

2X

2X 2X

2X 2X 2X

4X

2X

2X

1X

17cm

18cm

9.5 cm

126

cm

6cm

6cm

0,9 cm

7 cm

5 cm

3 cm

Džep kesa osnovni materijal

7 cm

Picture 36. Modeling, completing, and adding bends of the front of a man's jacket

219

1,8

cm

1,8 cm

0,9

cm1 ,

1cm

1,1 cm

2X 0,9

cm

1,1 cm

1,8 cm

1X

0,8 cm

1,1

cm

1,1

cm

0,9 cm

0,9 cm 0,9 cm

0,9

cm

1X

Picture 37. Modeling, completing, and adding bends of the back of a man's jacket

220

1,1 cm 1,1 cm

2,7

cm

1,8

cm

1,8

cm

1,1cm

0,9

cm

1,1 cm

0,9

cm

2X 2X

2,7

cm

6 cm 6 cm

9,5

cm2X

28 cmPicture 38. Modeling, completing and adding seams for men's jackets

0,8 cm

0, 8cm1X

0,8 cm

0,8cm

Picture 39. Modeling and completing a collar mens jacket

1X

0,3 cm

0,4 cm

221

Contents

Foreword

INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................................................................4

1. CLOTHES MADE OUT OF JEANS........................................................................................................5

1.1. History of jeans clothing...............................................................................................................................5

1.2.Manufacture of jeans clothing.....................................................................................................................71.2.1. Structural preparation of jeans clothing.....................................................................................8

1.2.1.1. Construction of model cut .......................................................................................................8

1.2.1.2. Cutting modeling ...................................................................................................................10

1.2.1.3. Completing cuts .....................................................................................................................10

1.2.1.4. Enlarging and downsizing the cuts ........................................................................................11

1.2.1.5. Creating outline pictures .......................................................................................................11

1.3. Children's denim clothing and proportions ........................................................................................12

2. FINISHING JEANS CLOTHES ............................................................................................................16

2.1. The effect of worn jeans using a laser ...................................................................................................16

2.2 Machines for making a worn appearance...................................................................................................20

2.3. Washing, staining and stoning machines ..................................................................................................232.4. Washing machines.......................................................................................................................23

2.5. Leonardo Printing and Spraying Machines ..............................................................................................24

2.6. Sprayer –Eco-spray robot ..............................................................................................................................25

3. ISO STANDARDS AND THEIR APPLICATION IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JEANS CLOTHING..........................................................................................................................................26

4. CNSTRUCTION, MODELING AND COMPLETE JEANS CLOTHING ....................................27

4.1. Tables of body measures............................................................................................................................27

4.2. Construction of children's clothing.............................................................................................................304.2.1. Construction preparation of children's pants.............................................................................30

4.2.2. Construction preparation of the girl's pants............................................................................37

4.2.3. Construction preparation of girls for girls................................................................................45

4.2.4. Construction preparation of pants for boys .............................................................................54

4.2.5. Construction preparation of a boy shirt ...................................................................................63

4.2.6. Preparation for construction jackets for boys .........................................................................73

4.3. Construction of Women Clothes...............................................................................................................824.3.1. Construction preparation of women's pants model 1..............................................................82

4.3.2. Construction preparation of women's pants model 2.............................................................91

4.3.3 construction preparation of women's skirts ............................................................................100

222

4.3.4. Construction preparation of women's shirt ...........................................................................107

4.3.5. Construction preparation of women's blouses .......................................................................1194.3.6. Construction preparation of women's dress model-1............................................................130

4.3.7. Construction preparation of women's dress model 2 ............................................................141

4.3.8. Construction preparation of women's jacket .........................................................................153

4.4. Man's clothes ..............................................................................................................................................163

The following abbreviations were used in the construction of men's clothing:......................................1634.4.1.Structural preparation for men's Model-1 pants.......................................................................164

4.4.2.Structural preparation for Model-2 men's pants.......................................................................172

4.4.3. Structural preparation for Model-3 men's pants......................................................................180

4.4.4. Structural preparation for Model-4 men's pants......................................................................190

4.4.5. Structural preparation for men's shirts ....................................................................................200

4.4.6. Structural preparation of men's jackets ...................................................................................212

LITERATURE

[1] https://www.ucl.ac.uk/anthropology/people/academic-and-teaching-staff/daniel-miller/manifesto-study-denim

[2]. http://edukacija.rs/magazin/history-mode-evolution-texas-i-dzinsa

[3] D. Ujevic, D. Rogale, and M. Hrastinski. "Clothing Design and Modeling Techniques", Faculty of Technology Zagreb, 2004.

[4] Fashion Designs, Construction and Modeling Clothes - Different models

[5] https://pavlebasic.me/2018/03/08/ beauty-farmers-clickers-lasers/

[6] .www.global-tradeyu.com

[7] EN 13402-1 Designation of clothing sizes - Part 1: Terms, definitions and procedure for measuring body

[8] EN 13402-2 Designation of clothing sizes - Part 2: Primary and secondary dimensions

[9] EN 13402-3 Designation of clothing sizes - Part 3: Body dimensions and intervals