This  Month’s  Contents  

     

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Beta

Remembering Eila Weisman – 2

CO Winter Outing – 2 State of the Union – 3

Plants You Should Know – 3 Trillium

Pictures and a Paragraph – 4 Arkansas

Upcoming Events – 5 Parking Sticker Info – 5

Holy Boulders Events – 6 Mountaineering – 7 & 8

Terms

Campfire Cook’n – 9 Cornbread Cakes

Western Outing – 10 AAC Press Release – 11

Devil’s Lake Leads – 13 Reprint and Update

Cut out for Guidebook

Arkansas Photos – 14 CMC Rope Leaders – 15

CMC Board – 15

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Graber gets AMP’d And shares his experience

By: Al Graber

The AMP Program is excellent training for both new comers and climbers of old to the alpine climbing world. I trained pretty hard in preparation, but thought I was still not in enough shape for the climbing schedule on the program’s itinerary. This ended up being the case and I wasn't alone, but it isn't impossible. The program is made to test your limits and push you passed them. Everyone led climbs at higher levels than they were used to; which was a huge confidence booster later on the last climb of the program (Sharkstooth 5.6). I recommend the AMP Program to anyone that wants to take their climbing ability passed the crags and

April  2013   Volume  83.04  Photo by: George Naxera

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into the mountains. The program mentors are very knowledgeable and will take you to another level in a safe way. If you plan on going through the program I recommend you do as much traditional “Trad” climbing as you can before the program. The more you know going in, the more you will learn from the mentors. As far as fitness goes, you can't train too hard. I felt I was in the best shape I could get in and once we got going I wished I had trained a little harder. If you have climbed Sharkstooth and Long’s Peak before you will do them again in the program, but much faster. You will have a personal speed ascent for those climbs! I also recommend getting up to altitude earlier to acclimatize, it's worth it!!

Chicago Mountaineering Club Since 1940

Continued on page 2

     

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CMC CO Winter Outing April  11  -­‐15  

 Description: Our goal is to climb the Decalibron in CO, which stands for DEmocrat, CAmeron, LIncoln and BROss. The four CO 14ers are located in the Front Range. The entire circuit route is above 12K and most of it is above 13.5K. It’s not a technical climb but it does require a high level of fitness, as this is an endurance climb. We’ll camp in the backcountry three nights. The team will have an opportunity to expand its winter mountaineering experience at a moderately high altitude and a chance to bag four CO 14ers.

Team: Andy Ashta

Dobri Danchev Gregg Kane

Umair Lateef George Naxera Jim Pasterczyk

There will be a presentation of this expedition at the

May General Meeting.

Remembering Eila Weisman It is with great sadness that we announce that longtime CMC member Eila Weisman passed away on March 13, 2013. Eila joined the CMC in 1963. Her husband Jack Weisman was President of the CMC from 1975 to 1976. The CMC extends its deepest condolences to Eila's family.

Picture from the 1965 CMC outing at Clear Lake (Courtesy of: Olle and Sue)

Please share your CMC memories, stories, and photos of Eila. cmcsecretary

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Some of the things we worked on were rappelling, what to pack for an alpine climb, first aid, self-rescue, and much more. I don't want to reveal everything. We did a ton of hiking and we trad climbed everyday. So like I said earlier, the more trad you know the less time they will have to spend showing you how and instead can focus on your weak spots or on new techniques. I hope more CMC members take the program because this was a great learning experience. There is nothing better than hiking into an alpine climb in the dark and climbing 6 pitches to the top of huge rock tower and safely getting back down before dinner for a cold beer at camp.

Congratulations Al! Well done!

Graber AMP’d - Continued from page 1

Exciting news for CMC members! The Chicago location of Moosejaw is offering club members

discounts: 5% off anything Non-Moosejaw, like Black

Diamond, Petzl, etc. Moosejaw branded item are 25% off,

And anything already on sale will be an additional 10% off.

Thanks Tony!

     

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The CMC would like to thank the Mountaineering Foundation of Chicago (“MFC”) for it's generous support, helping two CMC members to complete the Alpine Mentoring Program. Their support helped the CMC to send three climbers to the AMP Summer Alpine session, held in Colorado in 2012 by Jim Detterline and Bill

Karam. George Naxera conducted the winter/cold weather camping and snow skills session at Devil’s Lake in January 2012, and Dave Kenealy conducted the ice climbing session in Canada in February 2013. Through the efforts of many individuals and both organizations this program was made possible. Mike Edens and Al Graber received their AMP patches at the recent annual dinner. Thanks to all. Ting Sutana – Sergeant-at-Arms has decided to give-up beautiful Chicago winters and move to California. The pressure of keeping the CMC Board members in line became too great so she is stepping down from her position. Dave Kenealy has been sent to Sergeant training as he has been appointed to the position after an extensive vetting process. We wish Ting the best in California and hope she is able to find a comfortable couch to house us dirt bag climbers that will no doubt be visiting her. By-Laws Amendments Another round of amendments will be discussed at the April Board Meeting and upon approval by the Board, presented at the General Meeting. A special mailing detailing the proposed amendments will be sent to all members (in the same fashion this newsletter was received) for their review. Members can vote on the proposed amendments at the May General Meeting. Members must be present to vote.

State of the Union

Plants You Should Know

By: Jamie Norris

Common Name: Trillium, Wake-robin, Tri Flower,

Birthroot Scientific Name: Trillium (many species)

Trillium is a genus of 40-50 species of spring ephemeral perennials, native to the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere. Originally called Trillium because of the 3 leaves (actually bracts), 3 sepals, and 3 petals. The different species have mostly white or red flowers, but they can be pink, purple, or yellow. The two most commonly seen Trillium around Devil’s Lake are the large white flowered Trillium with solid green leaves and the smaller burgundy colored ones with mottled leaves. The seeds of Trillium are spread by ants or mice and picking the flower and leaves usually does long term damage to the plant. The white Trillium is the emblem and official flower of the province of Ontario, Canada and the official wildflower of Ohio. Keep an eye out for Trilliums while hiking this spring, they should be showing up within the next month or so.

     

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STAY CONNECTED Members can join the club’s email listserv to easily communicate and plan activities. If you are club member and would like to join the listserv just send an email to:

If you already joined the listserv and just forgot exactly how to send a message, it is easy! Just send an email like you normally would to this email address:

ChicagoMountaineering@yahoogroups.com If you want to reply to a message you receive, just hit “Reply” like you normally would for any regular email.

Not yet a member? Besides asking WHY NOT? You are welcome to keep up with activity through the club’s Facebook page.

Pictures and a Paragraph 1

Climbing in Arkansas By Daniela Pavlova

Eager to explore some climbs after the 10-hour drive, Keith and Julia Bielat and I headed over to Sam’s Throne (a mostly trad-climbing area). The thick fog, freshly fallen snow, and ice covered ground forced us to turn around after about 40 minutes of hiking. We headed into the little town of Jasper and met up with Chris and Sue Gregory for a cup of organic coffee and pie. Later at the cabin Michelle and Justin Rich arrived and we all had a delicious homemade spaghetti dinner and went to bed excited for the next day.

The weather Sunday morning quickly disappointed us and our expectations to climb. However, the group headed out to hike and scope out climbs that the fog had covered the day before. Bundled up we rappelled down a climb imagining how Julia, Keith, and Linda Hills climbed this very route in shorts and t-shirts exactly one year ago. That night the number in our cabin quickly multiplied when David Simek, Grace Romanelli, and Jeff Colombo, drove all the way from the Red River Gorge because weather conditions there were even worse. The Witkos crew - Jacek, Aleks, and Hubert also joined us. Monday the group wasn’t taking no for an answer, so despite the freezing temperatures we climbed alongside icicles. By Tuesday the weather was on our side and we

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continued to sport climb at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Everyone was excited and able to finally enjoy the beautiful sandstone. We weren’t able to get to many of the climbs so we decided to go back to HCR on Wednesday, instead of trying Sam’s Throne. The weather had done a 360 and the sun made everyone happy. Everyone had great personal accomplishments, and as a group we decided that for a first outing of the season we are in amazing shapes. Before we left there was already talk of coming back to Arkansas, so it’s safe to say that this place is a favorite.

Julia  in  the  cold,  fog,  and  snow  on  Saturday   Daniela  on  Wednesday  

     

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Upcoming  Events  CMC Board and

General Meetings

@ Molly Malone’s - 7652 Madison Street, Forest Park, IL

 Meetings are on second Monday of the month.

Board meeting starts at 6:30 (Open to all)

General Meeting at 8:00 April 8th May 6th

No meetings in the summer.

CMC Calendar

4/7 – VE Indoors Climbing* 4/8 – Board and General Meeting

4/11 – Holy Boulders Fundraiser (Chicago) 4/11 – 4/15 – CO Winter Outing**

4/13 – 4/14 – Banff Film Festival 4/20 – 4/21 – Southern IL** & Devil’s Lake Outings*

5/4 – 5/5 – Devil’s Lake Outing* 5/6 – Board and General Meeting

5/18 – 5/19 –Palisades* and Devil’s Lake Outings* 5/25 – 5/27 – Devils Tower, WY**

5/24 – 5/26 – Western Outing Prep** 6/1 – 6/2 – Devil’s Lake Outing*

6/7 – 6/9 – Western Outing Prep** 6/15 – 6/16 – Devil’s Lake Outing* 6/29 – 6/30 – Devil’s Lake Outing* 7/20 – 7/21 – Devil’s Lake Outing*

7/15 –7/21 – Western Outing** 8/3 – 8/4 – Devil’s Lake Outing*

8/17 – 8/18 Old Timers/New Climbers Devil's Lake* 8/31 – 9/1 – Devil’s Lake Outing* 9/14 – 9/15 – Devil’s Lake Outing* 9/28 – 9/29 – Devil’s Lake Outing*

10/12 – 10/13 – Devil’s Lake Outing*

*

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stopping in state parks and recreation areas. Some state forest and trail parking areas also require a sticker. Buy your sticker either when you get to the park or in advance.

WI State plates - $25 WI State plates, over 65 - $10

Out-of-State plates - $35 2nd parking sticker – half price (same household)

http://dnr.wi.gov/topic/parks/admission.html

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Wisconsin State Park – Parking Sticker

A vehicle admission sticker is required on all motor vehicles

62 or Over? Check out the USGS Lifetime Pass for $10

A $10.00 lifetime pass that provides access to more than 2,000 recreation sites managed by five Federal agencies, with up to 100% of the proceeds being used to improve and enhance visitor recreation services. Full detail at: http://store.usgs.gov/pass/senior.html

CMC Merchandise Contact the Sergeant-of-Arms for

Price and Availability

     

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 We  need  you  to  contribute  to  this  

Newsletter!      

Have you been on an adventure? Give us a brief report.

Have you read a good book or watched a video related to club activities? Tell us about it.

Do you have an interest in a complementary skill that club members could learn from?

How-to take photos outdoors, videos of climbers, campsite cooking, astrology, gear

reviews, etc.

Do you know of an upcoming event you want to share?

Got a recipe to share?

Please consider going paperless… Get the newsletters, faster, enjoy them in their true colors, and save a tree…  

Email  me  to  make  the  change:  cmcsecretary@cmcwebsite.org  

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Holy Boulders Happenings in April Holy Boulders is the latest bouldering area in southern Illinois to become somewhat protected. The CMC had never climbed there until Leif Faber, of the Illinois Climbers Association, gave a few members a tour last fall. There are two events in April regarding Holy Boulders:

Fundraiser Moosejaw Mountaineering

Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 5:00-8:00pm 1445 W. Webster Ave (Webster and Clybourn)

Chicago, IL 60614 phone: (773) 529-1111

Moosejaw will be donating 10% of the days’ sales and there will be free food and drink.

Adopt-a-Crag

Saturday, April 13, 2013 –9:00am Sign-in Holy Boulders

Macedonia Road, Southwest of Pomona, IL Although located near Shawnee National Forest, southwest of Carbondale, the Holy Boulders site was on private land. The landowners have allowed climbing since 2004, but recently put it up for sale, threatening public access. The Access Fund worked with local climbers and the landowners through a multi-phased conservation project to preserve access. On Monday, October 15, 2012, they announced that they had successfully acquired the Holy Boulders site, allowing public access for climbers. “Areas like the Holy Boulders that are so special—it’s really important for us to take initiative and try to protect these areas for future generations,” said professional climber Matt Segal in a press release. The Access Fund is still working to find a long-term owner. They obtained temporary ownership of the Holy Boulders with funds from their revolving loan program,

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which allows them to take quick action on threatened areas. They hope to raise an additional $185,000 from the climbing community for a permanent title, which will be transferred to a long-term owner. $51,000 has been raised as this newsletter goes to press. The Holy Boulders feature beautiful pockets and crimps on grippy standstone that’s often compared to the climbing at Fontainebleau, France.

Concerned climbers can find more

information, directions, a guide, and make a donation at:

www.accessfund.org/holyboulders  

     

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Mountaineering

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Belay Station Tips

Whether you’re a rock, sport, ice, or alpine climber – at some point you’ll be on a multi-pitch climb and crammed onto a small belay station with your partner. There might be a lot going on, and no room for it to go on in, and a general feeling of potential screw-ups will be in the air. Here are a few mainly non-technical tips to keep things running smooth. Read a good climbing book for the technical tips. • The leader should plan a space and clip-in point for

the second climber – prior to bringing the second up.

• When the second arrives, his FIRST task should be to clip in to the main anchor or cordelette “shelf” with a locking carabineer. (Ask an expert what a main anchor shelf is.)

• Keep everything clipped in to something.

• As you unthread your belay device, be very focused on NOT dropping it.

• Always keep the rope tied off – don’t rely on your partner to simply hold it.

• Be busy at the belay – it’s a time to get things done and be efficient about it.

• Don’t release your grip on transferred gear until your partner acknowledges that they have it in their grasping paws.

• When leading the next pitch off the belay, always protect the belay by clipping the rope through pro already in place for the anchor, or by immediately placing pro just a few feet up. If you do that and then do fall in the first few moves, it won’t be a factor two fall that comes directly onto your belayer’s harness as you hurtle past in a screaming blur.

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Fumbling and Bumbling Dropping stuff on a climb has the potential to create all kinds of problems. Two of the most frequently dropped items are belay devices and nut picks. These are “one of a kind” items on your rack. Make sure it’s not a problem for you if you happen to fumble some hardware at the belay. First of all, when you drop anything, don’t try to search for the right word to describe the situation – you’re not Hemingway. Just yell “ROCK”! Don’t try to yell “nut pick”, “Gri-gri”, etc. Those words don’t roll right off the tongue, and there will be a moment’s delay while you think about it. “ROCK!” is a universally known and recognizable signal – a single strong syllable that gets the job done immediately. After the fumble, what to do? If you’ve dropped your belay device, you can always use the Munter Hitch to continue on. Know this knot well! Even better, avoid dropping your device by keeping it on your locking ‘biner while you thread the device, and simply clip the small bight of rope after you thread the device without removing the device from the locker. When unthreading, don’t unclip your belay device and then yank the rope out of it. Unclip the rope from the locker and immediately reclip the device’s cable loop without taking the cable out of the mouth of the locking ‘biner. Make this a habit, even when top-roping. Dropping a nut pick is a pain. If each climber carries one, the second can always use the sole remaining nut pick. Or keep it tied to your harness with a length of tent-pole shock cord – it might get tangled now and then, but your nut pick will remain with you – not with the party below you!

Speed Up Your Alpine Climb In my homeland, it’s often a long way from the hard shining summit to the fresh lager in the disco futbol lounge. So, you don’t want to waste time and miss the match. How to speed up the alpine climb? Here are a few tips that apply to the approach, technical portion of the climb, and the descent:

Photo by: G. Naxera

     

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Alpine knee - To use your knee as a way to gain ground on a climb. (CMC Rule: Climber using a knee owes belayer one beer per occurrence) Cairn - A distinctive pile of stones placed to designate a summit or mark a trail, often above the treeline. Choss - Loose or "rotten" rock. Jib - A particularly small foot hold, usually only large enough for the big toe, sometimes relying heavily on friction to support weight. On-sight - A clean ascent, with no prior practice or beta. Pinkpoint - To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging), but with pre-placed protection and carabiners Clean - To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Redpoint - To complete while placing protection on a lead climb after making previous unsuccessful attempts, done without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging). Hangdog - While lead climbing or on top rope, to hang on the rope or a piece of protection for a rest. Send - To cleanly complete a route. i.e. on-sight, flash, redpoint. Zipper fall - A fall in which each piece of protection fails in turn. In some cases when the rope comes taut during a fall, the protection can fail from the bottom up, especially if the first piece was not placed to account for outward and/or upward force. Pseudo Leading - To climb a wall top rope having another rope connected to the climber, for practice of Lead climbing clipping. The other rope is normally not connected to any belayer below and is only there to practice the clipping. Usually practiced while learning how to Lead Climb. Psychological protection - A piece of protection that everyone knows will not hold a fall, but makes the climber feel better about having gear beneath them anyhow.

moun·tain·eer·ing /ˌmountnˈi(ə)riNG/

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms

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• Don’t stop moving. Even at a rest stop, do the essential things first, like refilling the goat bladder with water and changing socks. Then rest. Don’t rest and then do the essentials afterwards or the rest stop will take much longer. With parties of any size, it will be VERY much longer.

• Avoid arranging or joining large climbing parties.

• Learn the standing rest – 30 second breaks at an occasional switchback or on a broad ledge. It reduces the need for a real rest stop.

• Keep essentials close at hand. Lippensalve (chapstick), water purification pills (leave the heavy time-wasting pump at home) and so forth should be in your pocket, not in your pack, since they may be used frequently. Any time you go in your pack, consider putting a small snack in your pocket to eat while you walk. Sunglasses should be on your head or in a girly-man neck retaining cord.

• Purify water while you walk. At a refill source, drink what is left in the Nalgene, refill and drop the tabs in, and throw it in your pack – wait 30 minutes and it’s all good. Even handier is to put your Nalgene in the outer crampon pouch if you pack is so equipped. Purify while walking!

• Learn the axe tuck! Why keep putting your axe away and taking it out on mixed ground? Snow, rock, snow, rock, etc. Just tuck it between your pack and shoulder blades at an angle (spike first, pick to the side over the pack strap) and cross the rocky terrain with both hands free. Then pull it out again like Robin Hood grabbing a fresh arrow! Have your partner put the axe away permanently on your pack when no longer needed. Removing your pack to do so takes time and invites too long a break. Keep moving!

• Learn to put on and remove crampons in a minute or two. Keep them on when crossing rocky areas in between snowfields. You can always sharpen them after the climb.

• Eat, drink, and apply sunscreen while belaying, but put the belay first. Never lose sight of the main task. Keeping your pack open and next to you while belaying allows you to get stuff done while your partner is thrashing up that 2 hour pitch.

• Feel the pressure. Alpine climbing requires that a gentle pressure always be felt moving you forward. This mild sense of urgency should always be present in the subconscious. In the homeland we call this

. When you hit the trail back out, the pressure can ease gently. Keep moving!

     

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Campfire Cook’n

Cornbread Cakes by Chris Young

A “Southern Classic”

Ingredients: 1 Cast-Iron Fry pan 2 cups of cornmeal, 1 tsp. of baking soda, 1 tsp. of salt, 1 tsp. of sugar, 1 egg and 1 1/2 cups of buttermilk (milk if you do not have buttermilk, or water as a last resort) 1 small bottle of cooking oil 1 jalapeno ( ) Pre-trip preparation: Add the following into a 1 gallon zip lock plastic bag; Cornmeal, Baking Soda, Salt, Sugar. Pack for the trip. When you’re ready to make the cakes, add 1 egg and buttermilk to the bag, seal it up and mix. (Option: 1 Jalapeno - Finely chop the jalapeno and add to the batter – More you add the more zip you get.) Cook time: Add oil to coat a cast-iron fry pan and heat it up. Approx. 300 degrees. Over medium heat (red coals) or your camp stove, heat enough oil or grease to coat the bottom of the cast iron skillet. Don’t get the oil too hot …. If it smokes pull it off of the heat source to cool it down. Cut the tip off of the zip lock bag and use it to pour the batter into the heated cast-iron fry pan. Squeeze out the batter as you would for a pancake. Fry it until the cornbread cake turns golden brown.

The Banff Mountain Film Festival is coming to Chicago on April 13/14.

“The Banff Mountain Film Festival, a program of The Banff Centre, is the largest, and one of the most prestigious, mountain festivals in the world. Hot on the heels of the festival held every fall in Banff, Alberta, the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour hits the road. Traveling to exotic landscapes and remote cultures, and bringing audiences up-close and personal with adrenaline-packed action sports, the 2012/2013 World Tour is an exhilarating and provocative exploration of the mountain world. From approximately 350 films entered into the annual festival, award-winning films and audience favourites are among the films chosen to travel the globe.” Portage Theatre - 4050 N. Milwaukee Ave.,

Chicago, IL 60641

Saturday 4/13 at 7pm & Sunday 4/14 at 6pm

Tickets available online: $16.52/day

(includes fees) http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/315049 Too many films to list here. Details can be

found at:

     

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Al Graber, Expedition Chair and AMP Program graduate, is planning the next Western Outing. The 2013 Western Outing will be at The Grand Teton National Park. The dates are July 15th to the 21st.

To date 26 people have expressed interest in the outing.

Now is the time to confirm. The cost to stay at the American Alpine Club (“AAC”) Climbers’ Ranch is $48 for AAC members and $75 for non-members. If you are not a member of the AAC and are a member of the CMC, you can get 10% off a membership through the end of April with promo code: CMCLOVE. The Western Outing Committee members have reserved 20 spots with their own funds. As such, interested parties must send or deliver funds to Al no later than May 30th. If you don't pay by this time you can still go on the outing, but you will be responsible for reserving your own spot at the AAC Climbers’ Ranch or arranging other accommodations. There are 17 spots still available on a first come, first serve basis. There will be two preparation weekends at Devil’s Lake: 5/24-5/26 & 6/7-6/9. If you have limited experience in placing protection for traditional “trad” lead climbing and/or seconding a lead climber, it is highly recommended that you make these weekends. Just about all of the climbing we will be doing is going to be multi-pitch and trad. We will be practicing the skills used for this type of climbing at the lake. You can send money for the AAC Climbers’ Ranch to me at the address below, or deliver it to a committee member at a General Meeting or an outing at the lake.

Allen Graber 11001 S. Harding Ave.

Chicago, IL 60655

The Western Outing Committee consists of: Al Graber, Mike Edens, Matt Haraburda, and Tony Rubino. The club plans a Western Outing every-other-year. The Expedition Chair is charged with planning and leading this Outing. If you are thinking of joining the club the Western Outing makes you immediately eligible for membership. (Instead of the typical three outing requirement) Any questions can be sent to Al at: cmcexpedition

Panoramic view from Jackson Hole Valley Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teton_Range  

     

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10 Year Anniversary of Grand Teton National Park Human Waste Pack Out Program Posted on: January 25th, 2013 by edemarco

By Erin DeMarco, AAC Conservation and Advocacy Intern

Editor Note: Having the advantage of already receiving the most current I have read the wonderful article written by our Expedition Chair, Al Graber. With that article in mind and the planned Western Outing to the Tetons the following AAC press release seemed perfectly fitting.

The central massif of the Teton Range in Wyoming is an alluring destination for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. Its ridgeline is symbolic; it’s the Manhattan skyline of the American West. The alpine and sub-alpine regions of Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) boast a near pristine ecosystem, where “the same species of flora and fauna that have existed since prehistoric times can still be found.”

According to the Grand Teton National Park Wilderness Climbing Ethics website (tetonclimbingethics.blogspot.com), much of the mountainous high country of GTNP that we enjoy as climbers is “recommended wilderness.” Recommended wilderness is managed by the National Park Service as if it were Designated Wilderness (which is protected by Congress) in case Congress someday enacts the legislation necessary to include the area in the National Wilderness Preservation System. To this end, GTNP has educated its visitors in Leave No Trace techniques.

In the interest of the climbing community, the American Alpine Club is dedicated to preserving and protecting the mountains that we treasure. One of the Leave No Trace principles that the AAC is working to support in GTNP is that of disposing of human waste properly.

As climbers approach the rocky alpine region of GTNP, digging a cat hole to dispose of human waste isn’t possible, and when the temperature drops, the decomposition process slows down. In 2002, GTNP implemented a mandatory pack-it-out program in the Lower Saddle camp area above Garnet Canyon. By 2007, rangers, guides, and visitors alike embraced this model of pack-it-out, and the AAC saw the opportunity to expand the program to the popular Lupine Meadows trailhead, which many climbers and hikers use as a portal to the high country.

To accomplish this goal, the AAC received a grant from , a local chapter of , which is an international coalition of businesses whose donations are put toward environmental organizations and their projects. Over forty local businesses in Jackson Hole and the surrounding areas donate one percent of their sales to , which then aggregates the funds and grants them to projects whose aim is to sustain and better the Teton region. In 2007, a portion of these funds was granted to the AAC, and by 2008 the AAC was giving away Restop bags to climbers, hikers, campers, and other park visitors. The AAC was also able to use the funds to create informational signs on the importance of packing out human waste.

The program has been successfully administered by park rangers at the Jenny Lake ranger station, where Restop bags are given out free of charge, and where educational signs are posted. Restop bags are also available at the AAC’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch in Moose, WY, which provides affordable and accessible lodging for climbers visiting GTNP. According to the May 2012 report, between 2,500-3,000 human waste bags are distributed each year to users around GTNP, and the Climbers’ Ranch will continue to give out waste bags in the 2013 season.

Not headed to the Tetons for your next climbing trip? Don’t forget to bring along your own waste bags. You can pack it out and protect pristine climbing areas wherever you choose to travel: visit the AAC online store to get Restop bags at the discounted member price.

The AAC is very proud of the progress so far, and of the partnership that has grown between climbers and Grand Teton National Park thanks to this project. Support for this endeavor from 1% for the Tetons was critical to getting the project off the ground, diverting human waste, protecting water sources from contamination, and maintaining the aesthetic integrity of GTNP. The use of human waste bags is also cost effective—the elimination of eight to twelve helicopter flights per season required to remove the toilet buckets from the Lower Saddle area being only one benefit of the pack-it-out model.

However, GTNP Ranger Scott Guenther, former AAC president Jim McCarthy, and AAC Conservation committee co-chair Ellen Lapham still note substantial concerns: program monitoring could be expanded to improve its implementation, and some bags are being forgotten or intentionally left behind which puts the natural habitat of the park’s wildlife at risk. For the future, the AAC hopes to secure long-term funding for the program through other sources, and especially encourages climbers to embrace the pack-it-out model by bringing their own waste disposal bags. http://inclined.americanalpineclub.org/2013/01/10-year-anniversary-of-grand-teton-national-park-human-waste-pack-out-program/

     

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The Chicago Mountaineering Club Would Like to Invite Interested Members to Explore the World of Alpine Climbing

Through Its ALPINE MENTORING PROGRAM

Purpose: To provide exposure to alpine climbing for interested climbers from the Midwest. Open to all CMC members who are rope leaders or show equivalent interest (the commitment to the CMC is a primary concern) and who possess the ability to be a group leader, and can demonstrate self-sufficiency.

Currently there are only four people in the world that possess the prestigious AMP patch. Two of our very own CMC members, Mike Edens and Al Graber, who had to earn it the hard way through tough training with Jim, Bill, George Naxera, and Dave Kenealy. Two others did it the easy way, by being world-class mountaineers and receiving honorary AMP patches: Steve House (below) and Barry Blanchard (at CMC Annual Dinner) Final Note: This is not an educational program or training program. It is merely intended to provide the participant with exposure to alpine environments and alpine experiences not normally afforded to a climber from the Midwest.

News courtesy of Climbing magazine. Read more at http://www.climbing.com  Subscribe at climbing.com/subscribe. Explore Climbing magazine’s digital editions at climbing.com/apps.

Magazine News ROCK CLIMBING

Stanhope Frees Titan's Finger of Fate ���� Will Stanhope has free climbed the Finger of Fate route on the Titan, the 900-foot colossus of the Fisher Towers in Utah. This may be the second free ascent of the eight-pitch, soft-rock tower. Exponential Spring Break: Up to 64 Routes in a Day ����Rob Pizem, a teacher in Grand Junction, Colorado, decided to try something unusual for his spring break: an "exponential" week in which he would climb increasing numbers of routes at six different Colorado areas, starting with a single climb (a first free ascent) and ending with 64 different routes on Day 7. Megos Finishes La Rambla (5.15a) Second Try���� 3/30/13 - Barely a week after his historic 5.14d onsight of Estado crítico, 19-year-old Alex Megos has climbed La Rambla (5.15a), his first of the grade, in Siurana, Spain. Collins, Goodman Complete New Route in Venezuela���� Jeremy Collins and Pat Goodman teamed up with James Q Martin and José Miranda to complete an 11-pitch new route in Venezuela that they had started one year earlier. In Gold Blood (5.12c R A0) climbs a very steep line up Acopan Tepui in the Gran Sabana of southeastern Venezuelan.

MOUNTAINEERING / ICE CLIMBING Bold New Routes on Everest Planned This Spring���� Three separate pairs of climbers are preparing to attempt bold new routes on the world's highest peak this spring. Although few details of their plans have been announced, the climbers are some of the most successful Himalayan mountaineers alive.    

Jim Detterline Bill Karam

     

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1

5.4 New Box – Balanced Rock Wall

Queen’s Throne – Cleo’s Amphitheater Cleopatra’s Needle - Cleo’s Amphitheater

The Spine – Gill’s Buttress Double Overhang – Rainy Wednesday Tower

Kenosis – Doorway Rocks / Lower Major Mass Jungle Gym – Doorway Rocks (Could be 2-3 pitches)

Chez's Chimney – Old Sandstone Area B-Minor Mass – Doorway Rocks / Lower Minor

Mass (Could be 2-3 pitches)

5.5 Sunken Pillar – Balanced Rock Wall

The Bone – Pork Chop Buttress Handle With Care – Great Chimney

Equinox – September Wall Condor Corner – Condor Corner

Can-Can – The Frigate

5.6 Lost Temple Corner – Lost Temple Rock

Push Mi Pull Yu – Bill’s Buttress Angels Crack – Doorway Rocks Pretzel – Pseudo Hawk’s Nest

False Perspective – Misery Rock Berkeley – Briton’s Buttress Jacob’s Ladder – Pork Chop

Briton's Crack – Briton's Buttress Foreplay – Rainy Wednesday Tower

Coatimundi Crack – Bill's Buttress False Alarm Jam – Rainy Wednesday Tower

Lost Face 5.6 – Lost Face Bucket Brigade – Hawk's Nest

Pigeon Roof – Doorway Rocks / Miner Mass The Great Crack – Prospect Point Tower

Cleopatra's Needle/ inside SW corner - Cleo's Amphitheater

2

5.7 Family Jewels (3 stars) – Four Brothers Peters Project – Many Pines Buttress

Charybdis – Hawk’s Nest Dippy Diagonal – Doorway Rocks Birthday Crack – Birthday Rocks

Flying Indian – Tree Tower Ramses I and II – Poison Ivy Wall

Bishop – Prayer Wall Lost Face 5.7 Finger Crack – Lost Face

5.8

Sun-Top – Sun-Top Tower Lost Face Overhang II – Lost Face

Birch Tree Crack – Pedestal Buttress Curving Crack – Old Sand Stone The Chopper – September Wall

American Beauty Crack – Old Sandstone Area Everleigh Club Crack – Old Sandstone Area

Pillows Edge – Misery Rock

5.9 TM Overhang – Doorway Rocks

Devil’s Lake Leads

Started by Alex Andrews, in the now famous CMC Newsletter of February 2006, I present the now upgraded list with additions by the legendary Hideo Watanabe. But first the original article:

Let’s first address the obvious: If you do not currently lead traditional climbs (placing protection on the move from the bottom up) you must make the decision to do so completely on your own. Some people do not want to lead, should not lead, etc. We are not recommending you lead climb at Devil’s Lake. Lead climbing is inherently much more dangerous that top roping. However if you would like to lead but haven’t yet, follow the traditional path. First hone your climbing skills and build strength top roping. Learn how to set up bombproof anchors by watching and working with experienced climbers to set up top rope anchors. Take a course in anchor construction from a professional guide group. Become an expert at constructing anchors. Cajole an experienced trad leader into letting you second. Gain experience pulling protection following an experience lead climber. It’s the traditional apprenticeship way of learning. You see how others place protection when you remove it, and you learn from them. Consider taking a course on lead climbing from an outfit like the Colorado Mountain School or American Alpine Institute. Practice placing protection while standing on the ground. Test it. See what holds and what doesn’t. Ask an experienced climber to review your placement choices. Develop an instinct for it. And when you are ready to lead… Former Devil’s Lake Hardman, Alex Andrews, shares some of his past favorite moderate lead climbs at Devil’s Lake. (Check the guidebook for locations.)

     

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CMC Rope Leaders Keith Bielat

Randy Shaw Chris Gregory

Justin Rich

Al Graber

Mike Edens

Matt Haraburda

Brad Stoakes Jamie Norris

Rob White

Dave Kenealy

Wayne Martin

No Picture (yet)

Pete Mayer Mary Blandino

Ronn Fieldhouse

President – George Naxera

cmcpresident@cmcwebsite.org

Vice-President – Keith Bielat cmcvicepres@cmcwebsite.org

Secretary – Justin Rich cmcsecretary@cmcwebsite.org

Treasurer – Matt Haraburda cmctreasurer@cmcwebsite.org

Sergeant-at-Arms – Dave Kenealy cmcsergeantatarms@cmcwebsite.org

Expedition Chair – Al Graber cmcexpedition@cmcwebsite.org

Technology Chair – Matt Sickler webmaster@cmcwebsite.org

Outings Chair – Randy Shaw cmcoutings@cmcwebsite.org

Safety Chair – Chris Gregory cmcsafety@cmcwebsite.org

Publications Chair – Sue Gregory: cmcpublications@cmcwebsite.org

Programs Chair – Tony Rubino: cmcprograms@cmcwebsite.org

Grounds Chair – Bill Dietrich cmcgrounds@cmcwebsite.org

Conservation Chair – Todd Cornilsen cmcconservation@cmcwebsite.org

Librarian – Pieter Fockens

Directors at Large: Jamie Norris, Dave Kenealy, Bill Dietrich

CMC Board Members

     

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From: Chicago Mountaineering Club c/o Justin Rich 3721 N. Kenmore Ave Apt 2 Chicago, IL 60613

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