Check your pattern for proper fit.pdf

7/28/2019 Check your pattern for proper fit.pdf

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Cooperative Extension Service

College of Agriculture andHome Economics

NEW

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Check Your PatternFor Proper Fit

Guide C-220

Susan Wright, Extension Clothing and Textiles

Specialist

This publication is scheduled to be updated and reissued 6/06.

To find more resources for your business, home, or family, visit the College of Agriculture and Home Economics

on the World Wide Web at www.cahe.nmsu.edu

To be certain your fashion will fit when it iscompleted, be sure your pattern measurementsare similar to those of your body. By comparingyour measurements plus ease to the actual mea-surements of the pattern pieces, alterationsneeded for good fit can be made before your pat-tern is cut out.

The amount of ease in a pattern will vary fromfashion to fashion and from one brand of patternto another. Because of this, your usual size 12pattern may not always fit you. Use this checkingprocedure to help insure proper fit in your fin-ished fashion.

I. Preparations for Taking Measurements

Have someone take your measurements whileyou stand in normal posture. Be sure to use a tapemeasure that doesnt stretch. Take snugnot

tightmeasurements. Record the measurementsas they are taken so they can be used in checkingpatterns for fit. Be sure to record the date themeasurements were taken.

Measurements should be taken over well-fit-ting undergarments. Help mark the location ofyour waistline by tying a cord around it. Tie an-other cord around the base of your neck to mark

the location of your neckline. A cord should alsobe tied around your chest above the bustline.Place it high under the arms and parallel to thefloor across the back. Leave these cords in posi-tion while taking all measurements.

Study current fashion magazines to see wherethe top of the armhole should be. For some sea-

sons the normal armhole may be fashionable. Inother years, the shoulder may be extended or itmay be high to create a narrow shoulder line.Have your helper mark the back, front, top, andbottom of the armhole (usually about one or twoinches below the armpit) with a pencil or chalk.

For the shoulder seam location, draw a linefrom the prominent bone at the top of the armalong the highest point of the shoulder to theneckline.

Mark the underarm seams with chalk or with arow of pins if you are wearing a full slip. These

lines should be about1

/2 inch back of the middleof the armhole in line with the shoulder seammarking. When your arms are hanging straight atyour sides, these lines should be hidden.

After all these preparations are made, you areready to begin taking you measurements. Use thefollowing illustrations and instructions for exactmeasuring procedures.


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Guide C-220 Page 2

II. Taking Your Measurements

As you work, be sure the tape measure is pulled snugly and that it is parallel or perpendicular to thefloor. Take each measurement at the location illustrated; detailed instructions for each measurement aregiven on the back of this leaflet. Write each measurement in the correct spacebe sure to take measure-ments for rightand leftsides where indicated. In some cases,frontand backmeasurements are required.

1 ______

2 a ______b ______

3 ______4 a ______

b ______5 a ______

b ______6 a ______

b ______7 R ______

L ______8 ______9 ______10 ______11 R ______

L ______12 R ______

L ______13 R ______

L ______14 R ______

L ______

15 R ______

L ______16 R ______

L ______17 R ______

L ______18 R ______

L ______19 ______20 R ______

L ______21 ______22 ______23 ______

24 R ______L ______

25 R ______L ______

26 R ______L ______

27 R ______L ______

28 a ______b ______


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Guide C-220 Page 3

Name ___________________________

Date ____________________________

I. Determining Alterations Needed

Transfer you measurements to the appropriate space. Measure your pattern at corresponding pointsand compare to determine alteration needed.

1. Above bust

2. Full bust: a: Front

3. Below bust

4. Waistline: a. Front

5. High hip/ a. Front

abdomen:

(2-3 below waist) b. Back

6. Full hip: a. Front

7. Waistline to hips R L

8. Back waist length

9. Chest width

10. Center front length

11. Bodice length over bust R L

12. Shoulder length R L13. Shoulder to elbow length R L

14. Elbow to wrist length R L

15. Upper arm circumference R L

16. Elbow circumference R L

17. Sleeve cap length R L

18. Shoulder to bust length R L

19. Bust width (point to point)

20. Underarm length R L

21. Back neck seam

22. Upper back width23. Back width across shoulder

blades

24. Back waist length over

shoulder blades R L

25. Armhole depth R L

26. Shoulder height R L

27. Side skirt length R L

28. Center skirt length a. Front

b. Back

b. Back

b. Back

b. Back

ItemYour Body

Measurements(inches)

UsualAllowance

for ease(inches)

TotalAmountNeeded(inches)

PatternMeasurement

(inches)

AlterationNeeded(inches)


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Guide C-220 Page 4

New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department ofAgriculture cooperating.

Reprinted June 2001 Las Cruces, NM5C

IV. MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES

1-3. BustTake these bust measurements: 1)Above bust; 2) At full bust; 3) Under bust.Keep tape parallel to floor across the back.Then, take front and back measurements atfull bust from side seam to side seam.

4. WaistlineMeasure snugly where the beltshould be. Take both front and back measure-ments between side seams.

5. High hip/abdomenMeasure at fullestpart, usually 2-3 below waistline. Keeptape parallel to floor.

6. Full hipsMeasure at fullest part of hips,keeping tape parallel to floor. View figurefrom both front and sides to see whether hipsare larger at the hip or thigh level. If in doubt,

take both measurements. Use the larger one.Record measurement from side seam to sideseam, across the front and from side seam toside seam across the back.

7. Record distance of full hip measurement fromwaistline. Usually, it is 6-10 below the waist.

8. Back waist lengthMeasure from theprominent bone at base of neck to waistline.

9. Chest widthAt a point about 6 down fromshoulder seam at neckline, measure from arm-

hole seam to armhole seam.

10. Center front lengthMeasure from base ofneck straight down to waistline.

11. Bodice length over bustMeasure fromthe neckline at shoulder seam over bust,straight down to waistline. Keep tape paral-lel to center front.

12. Shoulder lengthMeasure from base ofneck to top of armhole line.

13-14. Sleeve lengthMeasure from top of armholedown to the elbow with arm bent. Also mea-sure distance from elbow to wristbone.

15. Upper armMeasure around fullest part ofupper arm. This is usually at bottom of arm-hole. Also record distance of this measure-ment from top of armhole seam.

16. ElbowMeasure around elbow with arm bent.

17. Sleeve-cap lengthTie a cord around thearm, level with bottom of armhole. Measurefrom top of armhole seam to this cord.

18 Shoulder to bust lengthMeasure fromshoulder at neckline to bust point.

19. Bust widthMeasure from bust point tobust point.

20. Underarm length From the cord tiedaround the chest, measure underarm side downto waistline.

21. Back neck seamMeasure along back neck-line, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam.Stand tape on edge to measure a good curve.

22. Upper back widthMeasure across backfrom top of one armhole seam to the other.

23. Back width across shoulder bladesAt apoint 7 down from shoulder seam at neck-line, measure from armhole seam to arm-hole seam.

24. Back bodice length over shoulder bladesMeasure from middle of shoulder seam, overshoulder blades, to waistline. Keep tape par-allel to center back.

25. Shoulder heightMeasure from shoulderseam at top of armhole, down back to thecord tied around chest.

26. Armhole depthMeasure from shoulder seamat neckline down to the cord around chest.

27-28. Skirt lengthMeasure from waistline to thefloor center front, center back and on each side.

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Check your pattern for proper fit.pdf