Upload
others
View
4
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
1/27/12
1
Beyond Design
By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner
PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law
Line Development
Chapter 8 Beyond Design
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 3
Chapter Objectives
• Understand how line plan and trend forecast are interpreted into designs for focused groups with specific delivery dates
• Understand limitations of legal protection for design of apparel
• Understand difference between item lines and group lines
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 4
Chapter Objectives
• Understand parameters of line development
• Understand how line assortment is balanced for production
• Explore means used to communicate design ideas at various stages of the line development process
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 5
Approaches to Line Planning
• Each garment designed part of a group that will be merchandised together on a selling floor, online, or in a catalog
• Styles within each group must satisfy the brand’s range of customers—from the most conservative to the most fashion forward
• Garments must meet customer’s brand expectations in terms of styling, fit, quality, and price
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 6
Approaches to Line Planning
• Seasonal line – consists of the overall collection of garments that will be offered for sale by a division or firm at a given time
• Assortment plan – spells out expectations as to variety, volume, and distribution of the line, as well as balance of line (breadth and depth) – Helps designers to focus their efforts on items
most likely to succeed
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
1/27/12
2
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 7
Approaches to Line Planning
• Each group should express a clear point of view, focusing on a relevant theme within customer constraints
• Accurate communication and teamwork between merchandisers and designers = marketable line that supports brand goals
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 8
Approaches to Line Planning
• Companies that rely heavily on basics (Jockey Intl., Lands’ End) – Most specific plans – Historic seasonal data – Competitive edge from identifying right colors,
adopting most up-to-date fabric technology, or maintaining highest quality standards
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 9
Approaches to Line Planning
• Edgy product developers assume more risk in projecting what consumers will want
• Merchandisers and designers more collaborative with input from sales, marketing, and/or key retail buyers
• Constantly trying to shorten calendar
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 10
Approaches to Line Planning
• Minimize risk by finalizing specifics at last moment
• Commit to only minimum fabric order, manufacturing capacity early on
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 11
Original Designs
• Ideas may be sketched by hand or computer drawings
• Ideas may be draped – More common for higher price points requiring
a custom-fit or fluid silhouette
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 11 Chapter 8: Line
Development © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of
Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 12
Style Modification
• Bodies – Recurring styles from previous collections that sold well – Perfected patterns have been fit and graded;
changed to adapt for new details – Carryover bodies are very cost-efficient to
produce
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
1/27/12
3
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 13
Knockoffs • Garments adapted or modified from
products designed by other firms – Pictures or actual product off the rack – In U.S. legal - justified as paying homage to designers’
good ideas
• Private label product developers are rethinking the merits of this derivative approach as a business strategy – Many have set up sophisticated design departments to
develop their own silhouettes
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Please note: Book states that knockoffs are legal. There is a bill in Congress as this is written to copyright garment designs. Therefore anything written here could be out of date by late 2009.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 14
Knockoffs
• Fast fashion chains (Zara, H&M) thrive on their ability to take an idea seen on designer runways and interpret it – Capacity to interpret in 2-6 weeks
• Magazines (Lucky, InStyle) and Cable TV shows (The Look for Less) capitalize on the fast fashion promise
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 15
Knockoffs
• Runway designers addressing the problem with diffusion lines (lower-priced lines adapted from their signature lines, ex. Alexander McQueen)
• Co-branding or exclusive brand agreements with retailer (Stella McCartney)
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 15 Chapter 8: Line
Development © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of
Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 16
Legal Protection for the Design of Apparel
• Premise of fashion-basic elements constantly mixed and morphed into new combinations that reflect times
• In spite of the lack of intellectual property protection for fashion, fashion companies continue to make money
• Difficult to ascertain ownership of any design when fashion is so derivative
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 17
Copyright Protection
• Copyright law - provides legal protection for authors of non-useful, original compositions
• Denied to clothing because they are intrinsically useful articles; few exceptions
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 18
Copyright Protection
• In the U.S., any work done while employed by a developer is owned by employer, (not employee), unless specific language is written into contract
• The CFDA has been lobbying Congress to support a bill to offer copyright-like protection to clothing designs
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Please note: Book states that knockoffs are legal. There is a bill in Congress as this is written to copyright garment designs. Therefore anything written here could be out of date by late 2009.
1/27/12
4
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 19
Trademark and Trade Dress
• Best legal strategy for designers to challenge knockoffs
• Trademark - any word, name, symbol, device, or combination thereof …to identify goods (Nike “swoosh” logo); protects designer from unauthorized use
• Trade dress – totality of elements in which product is packaged and presented
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 20
Organizing the Line
• Product development teams are very focused so time is not wasted on items that may not be produced
• Item Line Development - created around goods that are intended to be sold alone, one piece at a time; sportswear referred to as separates
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 21
Organizing the Line
• Coordinated Group Lines - consist of items organized around fabric groups and intended to be purchased and worn together
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 22
Parameters of Line Development
• Pricing – Part of brand’s identity – Determine where product will be sold, brands
it competes with, range of fabrics used, and who can afford to shop for it
– Consumers tend to assume that price is also indicative of quality—this may or may not be true
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 23
Parameters of Line Development
• Pricing (cont’d.) – Affects volume that will be produced – Affects materials that can be used – Most seasonal lines include a few loss lead
items
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 24
Parameters of Line Development
• Fashion Level – Customers return to brand when successful in
finding apparel that matches their fashion point of view
– Balance between basic and fashion goods varies from brand to brand • Some brands rely on their fashion styles to
produce most of their volume • Other brands rely on their basics
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
1/27/12
5
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 25
Parameters of Line Development
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 26
Parameters of Line Development
• Timing Considerations – Merchandise budget, line plan must consider
seasonal timing as it pertains to product category
– Weather and seasonal shopping habits may make certain categories more important • Fall – coordinates • Spring – dresses • Back-to-school – children’s wear • Holiday (before Thanksgiving) gifts, dressier items
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 27
Balancing the Line
• Assortment Variety – style, size, color accounted for as stock-keeping unit (SKU)
• Assortment Volume – demand for certain styles, sizes, and colors; product developer does not sell equal numbers of each style
• Assortment Distribution – where each item will be sold
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 28
Communicating Design Concepts
• Concept Boards – Illustrate the line’s theme – Vary in complexity – Convey key colors, fabrics, silhouettes, and
details the designer has identified themes – Must communicate vision clearly – Once presented and approved, designing can
begin
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 29
Communicating Design Concepts
• Line Review – As group coalesces, once again presented for
line review with all silhouettes, color assortment, and fabrication
– Stakeholders make production decisions – Presentations in variety of forms
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 30
Communicating Design Concepts
• Flats – Once design reviewed and accepted into line,
technical design department develops spec flat or technical flat • Technical flats – define proportions, details, and
construction required for production • Complex details may be enlarged in a separate
callout that magnifies area for clarity for patternmaker or sewer
Chapter 8: Line Development
© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.