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Chapter 8: Woven Fabrics and Their Properties
Dates back 9,000 years ago in the Middle EastMost common method of forming fabricFabric is also called:◦ Cloth◦ Material◦ Piece goods◦ Goods
Properties of Fabric
Warp◦ Set of yarns that run lenghtwise on a piece of woven
fabric◦ Parallel to selvedge (ends)
Fill (weft)◦ yarns that run horizontally across the width of a piece
of woven fabric◦ Perpendicular to the warp yarns
Bias◦ A line or cut across a fabric that is not at right angles
to the side of a fabric
Fabric Face and Back, Top and Bottom
Face – front side of fabricBack – back side of fabricTop (up position)◦ Some fabrics are noticeably different when viewed
from the top and bottom◦ Corduroy, velvet, velveteen, fleece
Bottom (down position)
Characteristics of Fabric Face
FABRIC FACE:◦ Usually smoother and more lustrous◦ If printed, the print is usually clearer and brighter◦ When aesthetics finishes are applied, the finish is
more pronounced on the face◦ In stain and twill weaves, the floats of the weave are
on the face◦ In fancy weaves, the desing may be clear on the front
but not the back
Characteristics of Fabric Back
FABRIC BACK:◦ Knots and imperfections are usually on the back◦ If printed, the print is less distinct and duller ◦ Tentering marks are usually more noticeable on the
back.
(tentering is used to straighten the grain of the fabric)
Characteristics of Warp
Warp:◦ Run parallel to selveges◦ Usually thinner yarn◦ Stronger ◦ Have more twist◦ Greater in numbers◦ Straighter and more parallel◦ If filament and staple yarns used in fabric, the warp is
usually the filament yarn.
Characteristics of Weft / Fill
Weft / Fill:◦ 90 degrees / perpendicular to the selvege◦ Bulkier◦ Weaker◦ Less twist◦ Unbalanced◦ If filament and staple yarns used in fabric, staple is
usually used in the weft / fill.
Thread Count and Balanced Fabric
Thread Count◦ # of yarns in 1 square inch◦ Used to determine quality◦ Higher yarns per inch = higher quality fabric
Balanced Fabric◦ Has the same # of yarns in the warp / filling (weft)◦ Tends to be more durable◦ Sheeting is an example of a balanced weave
Characteristics of Woven Fabrics
Grain◦ Refers to the relationship between the warp +
fill/weft.◦ Perfect perpendicular = on grain / grain perfect
Selvage – we will get to in few slides
Very little stretch◦ Major difference between woven and knitted
fabrics
Parts of a loom
Warp beam◦ Cylinder where warp yarns are wound
Harness◦ Holds heddles in place – usually more than oneHeddles◦ Wire or cord with eyelets that hold warp yarns
in place
Shed◦ Where the filling yarn is inserted
Parts of a loom
Shuttle◦ Holds the filling yarn◦ This is thrown thru the shed
Reed/dents◦ Comblike device that pushes filling yarns into place
Beating◦ To beat the filling yarn with the reed into the
completed cloth
Cloth roll◦ Cloth that has been woven rolls up into a cylinder
Conventional Shuttle Looms Vs. Shuttleless Looms
Two main types of looms:◦ Shuttle looms
Noisy, only insert about 200 picks per minute
◦ Shuttless loomsQuieter and much faster
◦ 4 kinds of shuttleless looms:Air-jet looms*Projectile loomsRapier looms*Water-jet looms
4 Kinds of Shuttleless Looms (pg 124-125)
Air-jet loom◦ A jet of air propels the filling yarn across the shed
Projectile loom◦ A gripper carries the filling yarn across the shed
Rapier loom◦ A rapier (rod or tape) carries the filling yarn across
the shed
Water-jet loom◦ A high-pressure jet of water carries the filling yarn
across the shed
Selvages + Other Looms (pg 125)
Circular loomDouble-width loomMultiphase loomTriaxial loom
Selvages ◦ Runs parallel to the warp yarns◦ Forms the lengthwise edges of the woven fabric◦ In shuttleless looms – fringes on both sides◦ See figure 8.5 pg 125
Variables in Woven Construction
A great deal of variety may be created by manipulating the following:◦ Fiber content◦ Yarn type and twist◦ Fabric count◦ Coloration◦ Finishes
Basic WeavesPlain or tabby◦ Simplest◦ Most commonly used◦ weft goes over one warp and then under one warp.
Common Plain Weave FabricsSwatches #45 - #57
BatisteCalicoChallisChambrayChintzCretonneDuckGinghamMuslinOrgandyOrganzaPercalePrint ClothVoile
Plain Weave Variations
Ribbed◦ Unbalanced weave◦ Noticeable lines on surface
Basket◦ Two or more filling yarns interlaced with two
or more warp yarns
Seersucker◦ Slack-tension weaving
More info on each on following slides
Ribbed Weave Characteristics
Special effect created either in the warp or the weftRib may be very pronounced or not veryUnbalanced weaveWears more quicklyMore likely to exhibit yarn slippage
Rib FabricsSwatches #58 - #63
Bengaline – rib very pronouncedBedford cordBroadcloth – rib not very noticeableDimity - rib easily visibleGrossgrain - rib very pronouncedFaille – rib easily visibleOttoman – rib very pronouncedPoplin – sister to broadclothRepShantungTaffeta - rib not very noticeable
Basket Weave Construction
Loosely wovenIdentified by the number of yarns that are interlaced◦ 2 x 2 basket weave◦ 4 x 4 basket weave◦ 3 x 2 basket weave
Variation is the half basket weave◦ 2 x 1 half basket weave
Basket Weave CharacteristicsAppearance◦ Reversible unless the finish or print makes one side the face
Fray easilySnagStretchDue to loose construction, more flexibleWears more quicklyYarn slippageTendency to shrink when washedDifficult to sew
Basket Weave FabricSwatches #64 - 67
SailclothCanvasDuckHopsackingMonk’s clothOxford cloth◦ 2 x 1 half basket
Twill WeavesTwill◦ Creates diagonal lines on surface of fabric◦ Wales – lines created by weave◦ Float – a yarn that crosses over more than
one yarn at a time
Fabric Appearance◦ Reclining diagonal line◦ Regular diagonal line◦ Steep diagonal line
Twill Weave Appearance continued
Right hand twillLeft hand twillBroken twillEven or regular twillUneven twillWarp faceWeft face
Twill Characteristics
Yarns are compacted close together◦ Strong, durable construction
Hides soil lodged between diagonal linesReversible ◦ Except that twill line changes direction
Common Twill FabricsSwatches #68 - #72
ChinoDenimDrillFoulard or surahGabardineHerringbone twillHoundstooth checkJeanSerge
Satin WeaveRefers both to fabric name and weave structures
Satin◦ Weft or fill travels over four or more warp
yarns
Fabric Appearance◦ Satin – warp faced◦ Sateen – weft faced
Fabric Characteristics
Yarn floatsParallel floats so no diagonal lineAs few interlacings as possibleLustrous fabric
Special Weaves
Dobby Weave◦ Small, repeated geometric patterns
Leno Weave◦ Pairs of warp yarn twisted around filling yarns
Jacquard Weave◦ Intricately patterned
More info on each in the upcoming slides
Dobby Weaves
Dobby attachment added to 16-harness (or more) looms◦ Dobby loom
Patterns may have long floats, if so:◦ Snagging◦ Poor abrasion resistance
Dobby Weave FabricsSwatches #77 - #81
Birds-eye ◦ long floats create a small diamond pattern with a dot
in the center◦ Also called diaper cloth
Huck◦ Pebbly surface; used for toweling
Pique◦ Surface pattern; Waffle effect or cord effect
Shirting madras◦ Small geometric design in a striped pattern
Waffle weave◦ Dobby-weave fabric with honeycomb effect
Leno WeavesSwatches #90 - #91
Pairs of warp yarns are twisted around filling yarnsDoup (leno) harness added to a dobby loomAdds stability to open weave fabricsUsually used in conjunction with other weaves to improve appearance of fabric
Jacquard WeavesInvented in 1801 by Joseph-Marie JacquardOriginally used punch cards to control each individual threadIndividual thread control means ability to weave picturesToday, most jacquard looms are air-jet looms Fabrics may have long floats, subject to:◦ Snagging◦ Abrasion◦ May be less durable
Jacquard Weave FabricsSwatches #84 - #87
Brocade◦ Evening wear, draperies and upholsteryBrocatelle◦ Draperies and upholsteryDamask◦ Table linens, furnishings and apparelTapestry ◦ Upholstery, handbags and wall hangingsWilton Rugs◦ Cut pile rugs
Extra Yarn Weaves
Extra warp or filling yarns create designs resembling embroideryThree methods of incorporating extra yarns into cloth◦ Spot weaving◦ Swivel weaving◦ Lappet weaving
Spot WeavingSwatches #82 & #83
Extra filling yarns ◦ Design on fabric face◦ Long floats on fabric back
Sometimes the floats on the back of the fabric are trimmed and used as the front
Swivel WeavingMore durable than spot weavesSpecial attachments holds tiny shuttles with filling yarnsDesign yarns wrapped around warp yarns several times
Lappet Weaving
Extra warp yarns used to create a zigzag designSeldom seen in US except as imported Swiss braids
Woven-Pile WeavesSwatches #92 - #95
Created with three sets of yarns◦ Warp ground yarns◦ Filling ground yarns◦ Pile yarns
Either extra filling or extra warp yarns
Two fabrics types possible◦ Cut-pile fabrics◦ Uncut-pile fabrics
Characteristics of Woven-Pile Fabrics
Durability dependent on:◦ Fiber used in the ground fabric◦ Interlacing of the pile◦ Density of the pile◦ Height of the pile
Direction of pile important◦ Pile of each piece must face the same
direction
Four Methods for Creating Pile Weaves
Wire Method: velvet, frise (frieze)
Filling-Pile Method: corduroy, velveteen
Double-cloth Method: velvet, velour, plush, panne velvet, crushed velvet
Slack-tension or Terry Weave Method: terry cloth
Double Cloth, Double Weaves and Double Faced
Double Cloth – swatch #88◦ Melton◦ KerseyDouble Weaves (pocket cloth)◦ MatelasseDouble Faced◦ Appear the same on both sides◦ Some blankets◦ Double-faced satin◦ Double-faced coat interlinings