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Chapter 14

Principles of Hair Design

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“The optimist sees opportunity in every danger; the pessimist sees danger in

every opportunity.”

– Winston Churchill

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Objectives

• Describe the possible sources of hair design inspiration.

• List the five elements of hair design.

• List the five principles of hair design.

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• Understand the influence of hair type on hairstyle.

• Identify different facial shapes and demonstrate how to design hairstyles to enhance or camouflage facial features.

• Explain design considerations for men.

Objectives (continued)

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Inspiration

• Inspiration: can come from anywhere at any time

• Visual understanding: what styles work best with different face shapes

• Strong technique and skills: explore new possibilities; develop customized styles

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Elements of Design: Lines

• Horizontal

• Vertical

• Diagonal

• Curved

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Repeating Curved Lines

• Curved lines repeating in opposite directions to create a wave

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Designing with Lines

• Single line • Parallel lines

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• Contrasting lines

• Transitional lines

• Directional lines (forward or backward movement)

Designing with Lines (continued)

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• Form: outline or silhouette of the style

• Space: area surrounding the form or area the hairstyle occupies

Designing with Lines (continued)

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Design Texture and Tools

• Styling tools

• Chemicals

• Designing with wave patterns

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Color

• Color psychology (creates texture and lines, ties design elements together, evokes reactions)

• Creating dimension with color (warm colors create volume, cool colors recede)

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• Creating lines with color (color can attract the eye)

• Color selection (tone should be compatible with skin tone).

Lines and Tones

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Proportion

• Proportion: Relationship between objects relative to their size

• Body proportion (hair and body portion must be compatible)

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Balance

• Symmetrical

• Asymmetrical

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Rhythm

• The regular, recurrent pattern of movement in a style

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Emphasis

• Wave patterns

• Color

• Change in form

• Ornamentation

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Harmony

• The most important principle in hair design; the orderly and pleasing arrangement of shapes and lines– Form with interesting lines

– Pleasing color and textures

– Balance and rhythm to strengthen design

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Physical Characteristics

• Shape of head

• Features

• Body posture

• Influence of hair types– Texture

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Guidelines for Hair Types

• Fine, straight hair (no body or volume)

• Straight, medium hair (more versatility in styling)

• Straight, coarse hair (hard to curl and carries more volume)

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• Wavy, fine hair (looks fuller with layering)

• Wavy, medium hair (offers most versatility)

• Wavy, coarse hair (can appear unruly if not shaped properly)

Guidelines for Hair Types (continued)

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• Curly, fine hair (responds well to mild relaxers)

• Curly, medium hair (creates a wide silhouette)

• Curly, coarse hair (needs heavy styling products)

Guidelines for Hair Types (continued)

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• Very curly, fine hair (best cut short)

• Extremely curly, medium hair (chemical relaxers and hair pressing are good options)

• Extremely curly, coarse hair (chemical relaxing recommended with other thermal services)

Guidelines for Hair Types (continued)

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Facial Types

• Oval

• Round

• Square

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Facial Types (continued)

• Triangular

• Oblong

• Diamond

• Inverted triangle

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• Convex profile

• Concave profile

Facial Profile

• Straight profile

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Special Considerations: Top Third of Face

• Wide forehead

• Narrow forehead

• Receding forehead

• Large forehead

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• Crooked nose

• Wide, flat nose

Middle Third of Face

• Close-set eyes

• Wide-set eyes

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• Long, narrow nose

• Small nose

• Prominent nose

Middle Third of Face (continued)

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Lower Third of Face

• Round jaw

• Square jaw

• Long jaw

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• Receding chin

• Small chin

• Large chin

Lower Third of Face (continued)

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Head Shapes

• Not all are round

• Design for volume and lack of volume

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Styling for Eyeglasses

• Consider eyeglass arms.

• Consider hair length around ear.

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Hair Parts and Fringe

• Triangular

• Diagonal

• Curved

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• Diagonal

• Zigzag

Style Parts

• Center

• Side

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Designing for Men

• Styles

• Mustache and beard shapes

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Summary and Review

• What are some of the possible sources a hair designer might use for inspiration?

• What are the five elements of hair design?

• What are the five principles of hair design?

• What influence does hair type have on hairstyle?

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• List and describe the seven facial shapes and explain how hair design can be used to highlight or camouflage facial features.

• How do the elements and principles of hair design apply to men?

Summary and Review (continued)

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You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.

Congratulations!