Chapter 1 FINAL

CHAPTER ONEINTRODUCTION © 2010 Fairchild Books,

A Division of Condé Nast Publications

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C H A P T E R O N E

INTRODUCTION



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Copyright © 2010Fairchild Publications, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means–graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems–without written permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6

GST R 133004424



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Clothing has existed since prehistoric times. Why do people wear clothes?

Protection Status Modesty Decoration



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Decoration seems to be the most basic motivation for dress.



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• Function: Style must permit required activities • Availability of materials.

Type of dress worn may be limited by:

Southern Russian Slavs preparing hemp fibers.Filipino women weaving hats from bamboo fibers.



Dress can be divided between draped and tailored clothing.

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Draped clothing is made from woven lengths of cloth, loosely fitted, good for warm climates.

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Tailored clothing is cut and sewn, is close-fitting, and is good for cool climates.

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There are also clothes that combine draping and tailoring.

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Technology limits or expands options

• Made by hand

• Mechanized

• Powered by electricity

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Social mores and customs may limit or expand clothing choices

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In the study of historic costume, there are underlying themes related to dress

A theme is “a recurring or unifying subject or

idea.” (Webster 1988)

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Some themes that appear throughout the study of the

history of dress include:

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Social Life, Social Class

Structure, and Social Roles,

Including Those Related to

Gender14



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Changes and/or patterns in social Changes and/or patterns in social behaviorbehavior——what we might refer to what we might refer to

as “lifestyles”as “lifestyles”



The function of dress in the social context can include:

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Designation of gender differences

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Designation of status

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Identification of group membership

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Ceremonial use of clothing

President Grover Cleveland’s wedding as reproduced in Harper’s Weekly

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Certain themes grow out of the historical context, such as:

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Politics: Leaders as Style Setters



c. 1250 c. 1370 c. 1580

Politics: War and Conflict as Style Setters

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Economics: The trade of textiles and apparel



Technology: The production of textiles and apparel

Massachusetts Textile Mill Worker25



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Communication: The dissemination of styles



CROSS-CULTURAL INFLUENCES IN DRESS

As cultures come into contact, there is a reciprocal exchange of new ideas, resulting in

styles that are MIXTURES, and a process called CULTURAL AUTHENTICATION

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Mixtures are styles that incorporate components from several cultures

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The cheongsam combines traditional elements with Western cut and fit.



Cultural Authentication is the process “whereby elements of dress of one culture are incorporated into the dress of another.” Usually the culturally authenticated style is changed in some way. Only rarely are entire garments adopted. Erekosima and Eicher (1981)

Dashiki

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Geographic location, the natural environment, and ecology (the relationship of humans to their physical

environment) may emerge as themes that are evident in dress.

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Clothing is considered by some to be an art form

Isabella Clara Eugenia, Infanta of Spain, Duchess of Austria and Burgundy, Princess of Belgium.

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As an art form, it can be said to grow out of the ZEITGEIST.

Zeitgeist, a German word, describes the complex mixture of social, psychological, and aesthetic factors often called the “spirit of the times.”



Influenced by the Zeitgeist or spirit of the times, different art forms from the same era may display

similar qualities.

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Themes related to clothing as an art form include:



The relationship between costume of a

particular era and developments in the fine and applied arts.

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Individual artists and designers,

such as Gabrielle Chanel,

contribute to the view of costume

as art.

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Revival of interest in earlier styles

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Where does fashion fit into this exploration of dress?

What is Fashion?

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Fashion is a taste shared by many for a short period of time.

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Fashion is evident in many aspects of life.



A complex technological system has developed in the modern world that

facilitates:

DesignManufactureDistribution

Thereby making it possible for men and women of all

incomes to follow current fashions

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Technology: Design Development

• Line Creation• Line Development

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• Pattern design• Marker making• Fabric cutting• Control of work-in-process• Control of sewing machines• Warehousing and selection• Electronic data interchange• Computerized printing

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Technology: Systems for Manufacturing Apparel



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Technology: Distribution and Communication



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For Further Study

Pre-historic ClothingPre-historic Exeter:http://pub2.exeter.gov.uk/timetrail/01_prehistoric/growth.asp

Clothing Worn By the Ice Man: http://mr_sedivy.tripod.com/iceman4.html

Abstract Of Paper On Cultural Authenticationhttp://www.textilesociety.org/abstracts_2004/torntore.htm

Resources And Links On Folk Costumehttp://www.costumes.org/ethnic/1PAGES/ETHNOLNK.HTM

Fashion: http://www.fashion-era.com/sociology_semiotics.htm

Further Reading:Eicher, Joanne B., and Barbara Sumberg. 1995. World Fashion, Ethnic, and

National Dress. In Dress and Ethnicity: Change across Space and Time, edited by J. Eicher, 295-306. Oxford: Berg.



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Image Credits

Image of tattoo shirt, courtesy of www.bewild.com

Image of the Leno Loom, courtesy of www.sofcon.cz

Image of Tatting Lace, courtesy of www.fundysights.ca

Image of Jackie Kennedy, c. 1960, courtesy of www.imperialclub.com

Dashiki, courtesy of www.vintage70sclothing.com

Various images in this chapter courtesy of www.clipart.com

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Chapter 1 FINAL