Chapple, R. M. 2014 St Patrick and the Tale of the Non-disappearing Cross - Chapple Family Excursions in Downpatrick. Blogspot Post

8/10/2019 Chapple, R. M. 2014 St Patrick and the Tale of the Non-disappearing Cross - Chapple Family Excursions in Downp

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St Patrick and the tale of the non-disappearing cross | Chapple Familyexcursions in Downpatrick

Originally posted online on 17 March 2014 at rmchapple.blogspot.com

(http://rmchapple.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/st-patrick-and-tale-of-non-disappearing.html)

In celebration of St. Patricks Day 2012, I posted a short piece on this blog about how the verybeautiful gravestone of the Saint in the grounds of Downpatrick Cathedral is a recentfabrication, and not an ancient monument. The person behind this apparent deception wasthe rather larger than life characterFrancis Joseph Bigger(1863-1926) [see also:here|here]and you can read about the whole thing in:St. Patricks Gravestone: A Bigger fake!

Francis Joseph Bigger
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Schema of how the three cross fragments could have fit together

In that post I wrote: During the preparation of the grave site three fragments of a brokencross were recovered. Although searches were carried out to recover further portions, theywere in vain. Bigger notes that the fragments were placed in the cathedral for safe-keeping,until such time as more pieces could be located and a reconstruction attempted.

Ill admit that a part of me suspected that these pieces would, most likely, be pretty difficult tofind again. Ive heard more than my fair share of stories about items brought into churches for

safe keeping, never to be seen or heard from again. In many ways, this is to be expected most churches are still living buildings and all it takes is one cleric with more interest in thebreathing congregation than the historic buildings they curate for stuff like this to get movedabout and forgotten. In the century and a bit since the discovery of these three fragments Ireckoned that there was more than ample opportunity for these pieces to go missing. On theother hand, Id not been inside the cathedral for many years and couldnt remember even ifthere were and historic bits and pieces on display.
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Chapple Family excursion to St Patrick's grave 2014


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Lowest portion of the recovered cross. Decorated panel with spirals.A tang, possibly for fitting into a socket, is visible at the top.

This weekend (14-16 March 2014) I had my mother come stay with us. We didnt have anyparticular plans other than to spend some time together with her grandchildren, catch up onthe gossip from home, share some good food and some better wine. On Saturday morning theconversation turned to we really should get the kids out for a run about and we started to talkof destinations, sights to see, and places to visit. In amongst the various places that gotmentioned was Downpatrick, Co. Down. Once my mother said Ive never been there Id loveto go that settled it.
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Central portion of cross, decorated with roundel of low-relief-interlace.

Downpatrick is only about 20 miles from Belfast, on good roads all the way. Once wenegotiated the traffic in the town (and hoards of the local youth hefting boxes of Coors Lightbeer about it appears to have been on offer) we made our way up to the cathedral. We tookthe obligatory family photos by the graveside and began a slow meander around the graveyardto inspect and admire the other historic stones. While my children decided to play rollingdown the hill and not bashing into the gravestones, I noticed that the cathedrals front doorwas open. I just thought itd be nice if I found these pieces of the cross languishing quietly ina neglected corner, or behind a curtain vying for space with stacks of excess chairs. I neednthave worried! The three pieces of the high cross are there directly inside the west doorway.Theyre safe, well, and cared for, and they are presented on a specially constructed platformfor their protection and ease of viewing. Here they are: not missing, not lost still waiting forthe day when more pieces are recovered!


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Final pieces of cross, placed by Bigger under the head portion.Possibly decorated with low relief caving of square knot-work.


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Inside Downpatrick Cathedral. The east window.

Filled with the joy of all things Patrick, we decided to venture forth into the adjacent StPatricks Visitor Centre.Ive never been inside the building, but I do know the site well in1998 I worked on thearchaeological excavationthat was necessary before the building couldgo ahead. I dont propose to give an in-depth review of the place and the contents of theirdisplays, but I would like to offer a few notes. In the first place, the entrance fee wasremarkably reasonable - 12 for two adults, two children, and one senior citizen admittedly,we didnt avail ourselves of the option to use the headsets two excited young boys are enoughfun to look after without adding further impediments! The layout of the displays are stunning,though provoking, and present a well-rounded portrait of both Patrick the man and themythology that has grown up around him. The tour ends in an auditorium with the ubiquitousaudio-visual presentation. Before you go oh, not another of these, let me assure you that thisone is different! Its a 180 screen that includes a simulated helicopter ride over the chief

Patrick-related sites in Ireland (Downpatrick, Saul, Croagh Patrick, Slemish etc.) itsabsolutely stunning, but if it lasted even one minute longer, and the helicopter did even onemore swoop and dive, Id have lost my lunch! Speaking of lunch they have a lovely caf
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upstairs, thats incredibly reasonably priced. We had three cups of excellent coffee and twogenerous bowls of ice cream, and the lot came to around 7 an absolute bargain for this kindof attraction. My only regret about the place is that there was no display featuring thearchaeology of the site but then again (to the best of my knowledge) it has never beenpublished such a shame!

The site in 1998


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Bronze tweezers with blue glass decoration from the excavation of the Visitor Centre site

All in all, my advice to those interested in Patrick and his history from both near and far is to come to Downpatrick and see the sights for yourselves. Theyre beautiful, interesting

places, set in gorgeous countryside. Whats not to like?
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Inside the St Patrick's Visitor Centre


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Inside the exhibition hall, linking Ireland's prehistoric and christian heritages.

Unfortunately, this s the closest we're getting to theTuroe Stonefor the foreseeable future.
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Reproduction of what a High Cross may have originally looked like... in all its garish glory!


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St Patrick as a bridge of literacy between pagan past and christian present
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Tonsured monks tell the Patrick story.

Wishing all readers a very happy St Patrick's Day & hoping that you'll all come to NorthernIreland and visit the Saint in person at Downpatrick!

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Chapple, R. M. 2014 St Patrick and the Tale of the Non-disappearing Cross - Chapple Family Excursions in Downpatrick. Blogspot Post