Chamomile ExtractChamomile tea has many benefits for skin, hair, eyes & over-all health. It has been used for centuries as an herbal remedy. Many people use it as a natural skin lightener. An extract from matricaria (Chamomilla recutita) is reported to contain an endothelin inhibitor. Unlike other natural skin lighteners that contain tyrosinase inhibitors (i.e. licorice & bearberry extracts), chamomile contains an endothelin inhibitor. Endothelin inhibitors are reported to work faster than tyrosinase inhibitors on account of the fact that their mechanism of action is outside the melanocyte cell membrane. Tyrosinase inhibitors on the other hand have to cross four barriers (the stratum corneum (outer epidermal layer), deeper epidermal layers, the melanocyte membrane and the melanosome membrane) Endothelin antagonists (inhibitors) are known to cause a four-times accelerated inhibition of the melanin synthesis compared to other plant based melonogenesis inhibitors. The EA compounds do not enter the melanosomes and cause cell cytoxicity to inhibit the tyrosinase or the oxidative processes. These compounds penetrate into deeper layers of the epidermis to inhibit endothelin protein, which is a safe method of skin lightening. Kojic Acid Kojic acid is a natural product and normally used as a food additive and preservative, a skin-whitening agent in cosmetics, a plant growth regulator. Kojic Acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice. Mild inhibitor of the formation of pigment in plant and animal tissues, used also to preserve cosmetics as well as food. Common usage:1 - 3% concentration. Licorice Root ExtractLicorice root has many medicinal uses, it has been traditionally used to reduce inflammation and to soothe irritated skin. The primary antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds found in Licorice Root are the glycosides - glycyrrhizin and glycyrrizinic acid, flavonoids, and saponins. Recent research has demonstrated the powerful anti-inflammatory and hydrating characteristics of Licorice Root in the successful treatment of eczema. Other studies have demonstrated the skin lightening effects of Licorice Root Extract. It is suggested that Licorice Root Extract reduces hyperpigmentation by blocking tyrosinase, a skin enzyme responsible for the pigmentation process. Mulberry ExtractMulberry root bark extract was found to be a potent inhibitor of tyrosinese enzyme. The major constituent was identified and found to be fourteen times more potent than hydroquinone.Independant laboratory testings proved that 4.4% Albacan™ containing 0.0375% of Paper Mulberry compound was as potent as 1.2% Arbutin or 1% Kojic acid. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)Studies have proven in the recent years that niacinamide is a powerful ingredient that yields many skin care benefits. Commonly known as Vitamin B3, Niacinamide at 2% has been shown to reduce water loss in the skin and retain fatty acid levels (younger, plumper, firmer skin). It has also been proven at high concentrations (between 3-4%) to be a very effective acne reducer. Clinical research has shown niacinamide (Vit B3) to be just as effective as the topical antibiotic Clindamycin at treating acne. Obviously Niacinamide doesn't run the risk of resistance, since it is not an antibiotic. Niacinamide is also an excellent skin lightening agent that works by disrupting the transfer of melanosome from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte. There was a study done by Procter & Gamble that proved that the combination of niacinamide and glucosamine (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) demonstrated significant skin lightening in patients. This revelation was pretty big, and was presented at the 2006 American Academy of Dermatology. Here is an interesting link showing before & after pictures of patients as well as details regarding the research Rumex Extract “Tyrostat”Rumex Extract is derived from the rumex plant that grows wild and is found abundantly all over Canada. Rumex extract is a highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor. Significantly outperforming hydroquinone and arbutin, while maintaining efficacy comparable to kojic acid. It works great in synergy with other tyrosinase inhibitors like kojic acid and arbutin. The Canadian company “Fytokem” is a major producer of rumex extract. “Tyrostat” is the name brand of their rumex extract. Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)Is a high purity solvent and carrier which offers a safe, effective penetration enhancement for active ingredients in personal care products. Sunless tanners, facial and eye-zone treatments, skin lightening creams, skin serums, anti-acne formulations and make-up removers are just some of the products whose effectiveness are greatly improved with the use of Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI). Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) Benefits:•Enhanced penetration of actives to the epidermis, reaching areas that would otherwise go untreated•Improved shelf stability of active ingredients•A lower level of skin irritation with a reduction in the required concentration level of aggressive actives•A long history of safe usage Dipropylene Glycol (DPG)Humectant, solvent and carrier for cosmetic ingredients. DPG is the solvent of choice for fragrance, hiar & skin applications due to its low odor, low toxicity and low skin irritation potential. Sodium SulfiteSodium sulfite is a soluble compound of sodium. It is also used as a anti-oxidant/preservative to prevent dried fruit from turning brown due to oxidation, and for preserving meats. It is used in water treatment as an oxygen scavenger agent, in the photographic industry to protect developer solutions from oxidation. It also is used in lots other applications including food preservatives & making dyes. Jojoba OilJojoba (pronounced ho-HO-ba) is a botanical extract of the seed of the jojoba tree (Simmondsia chinenis). What’s interesting about it is that it isn’t actually an oil, but rather what they call a wax ester. This wax ester is the most similar to human skin oil (sebum). It is theorized that applying jojoba to the skin can “trick” the skin into thinking it is producing enough oil, thus balancing oil production. The bottom line for us is that jojoba oil is non-comedogenic so we can use it without fear.Over time the use of Jojoba oil significantly changes the appearance of pore size and moisturizes the skin. It also makes a great makeup base. Jojoba oil has some amazing properties since it is suitable for all skin types and penetrates the skin readily and for this reason is frequently used in skincare and cosmetic products. Jojoba - the miracle oil for softening the skin is used to promote a softer more supple skin, while being non-greasy. Jojoba oil is easily absorbed by the skin and is great to promote a silky smooth skin. Jojoba oil will help to nourish the skin and prevent dryness. A fine penetrating odourless oil which has the consistency of a liquid wax. Jojoba Oil is stable and long lasting. It is a good conditioner for all skin types, especially mature skins. Jojoba is also effective for dryness and dandruf and can be massaged on its own into the hair and scalp. The best choice to use as a perfume base because it is the least greasy of the carrier oils. More about JojobaIn reality Jojoba oil is not an oil but a liquid wax, and is pronounced "ho-ho-ba", and only became important in the 1970s when whaling was banned, since Jojoba oil has almost the same properties as the oil obtained from the sperm whale. Since Jojoba oil is composed of wax esters, it is an extremely stable substance and does not easily deteriorate. Analysis of jojoba oilJojobaThe structure of jojoba oil closely resembles that of your own skin sebum, and because of this it has a natural affinity to the skin, and is readily absorbed without making the skin feel greasy or tacky nor does it clog the pores and helps to balance the production of sebum - your skin's own lubricating medium.A typical chemical analysis of jojoba oil includes palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, and arachidic, eicosenoic, behenic, and erucic and lignoceric fatty acids. It contains myristic acid which also has an anti-inflammatory action. Jojoba oil has the ability to minimize fine lines and wrinkles, promoting skin suppleness while assisting with the rejuvenation of the skin and forms a non-greasy, non-tacky layer with exceptional trans-epidermal water control. Jojoba oil is well tolerated by people with skin problems and does not aggravate acne, and also helps to break down sebum in plugged-up pores. Dermatological tests on jojoba oilIn dermatological tests done, using jojoba oil, by Christensen and Packman, it was shown that jojoba oil increases the skin's suppleness by 45% and after 8 hours the effect was still present.It was also found that jojoba oil softens and smoothes the skin with fine line reduction. In one test 20 women's skin compliance increased with 37% after 30 minutes and remained for a hour.Continued use of jojoba oil results in reducing superficial facial lines. Reduction of such lines was 26%, 18% and 11% after 1, 4 and 8 hours in conducted tests. Jojoba oil was also tested for hypoallergenic reactions. Two out of 50 people with known allergic skin types showed reactions to Jojoba. This reaction on the inherently hyper-allergic skins cleared completely after 24 hours.Tests at Michigan University showed that five of the most common skin bacteria plus certain skin fungi couldn't survive in jojoba oil. Professor Zille of Port Elizabeth University carried out studies on the anti-bacterial effects of jojoba oil and the results were presented at a Coshem Congress held in Mintek, which found that jojoba oil destroys the bacteria staphylococcus and pseudomonas within 1 hour and 15 minutes.Studies on jojoba oil at the Ben Gurion University in Israel have shown that jojoba oil relieves the symptoms of psoriases. So, not only does jojoba oil have amazing emollient and lubricating properties, but also include a range of therapeutic qualities as well. * Jojoba Oil is used medicinally. It contains vitamins E and B complex. It also has the minerals silicon, chromium, copper and zinc. It has a very high percentage of iodine, almost 81.7%. The iodine concentration gives the Jojoba oil a great power to heal. EXTERNAL USE: * Jojoba Oil can help heal acne, athlete's foot, cuts, mouth sores, pimples and warts. The oil also helps to remove build up around hair follicles. This enables it to help with dandruff, hair loss and dry scalp. * Jojoba Oil is high in Vitamin C, as well as possessing sulfur, copper, cobalt and has traces of tin. It has a volatile oil, which gives Juniper its characteristic flavor. * Jojoba is a natural, very valuable wax. Since it is liquid it is often also called Jojoba oil. * Jojoba is widely used in different personal care and cosmetic products helping to treat dry skin. * Jojoba soothes and helps to remove wrinkles and stretch marks. * Jojoba acts as a tonic, emollient and moisturizer. * Jojoba is a an evergreen desert shrub whose seeds contain an odorless, colorless, liquid wax used in cosmetics, lubricants, etc. * Jojoba is liquid wax highly penetrating and closely resembles human sebum.Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant. Fantastic. Prolongs shelf life

http://www.drmajeed.com/articles/2009MultifunctionalSkinToneLighteners.pdf

http://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2006-06/msl-sfn063006.php

http://www.eurekalert.org/multimedia/pub/1367.php?from=80784