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Cetiol® CC
The Benchmark for Dry Emollient
Internal
BASF Personal Care2
INCI: Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Spreading value: 1600 mm2 / 10 min
Sensory feeling: dry, velvet skin feel
Skin compatibility: excellent
Stability: hydrolysis stable
Origin: vegetable (fatty alcohol)
Biodegrability: yes
Personnel data
BASF Personal Care3
What can it do for you?
Deodorants / APs
Sun CareSkin Care
Face Care
BASF Personal Care4
Advantages
Skin
Ca
re
Fast spreading emollient
Smoothes the skin
Dry, velvet skin feel
Superior skin compatibility
Good emulsifiability
BASF Personal Care5
Smoothness
Time
Cetiol® PGL
Cetiol® J 600
Cetiol® CC
Fast spreading emollient
Skin
Ca
re
BASF Personal Care6
Smoothness
Time
Cyclomethicone
Cetiol® CC
Spreading cascade of fast spreading
emollients
Skin
Ca
re
BASF Personal Care7
Emollient INCI Spreading Value
[mm2/10 min]
Cyclomethicone > 1600 high
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 1600
Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 1600
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 750 medium
Cetiol® PGL Hexyldecanol/Hexyldecyl Laurate 750
Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 700
Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 550
Cetiol® J 600 Oleyl Erucate 350 slow
Almond Oil Prunus Dulcis 200
Spreading Values
Skin
Ca
re
BASF Personal Care8
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Irritation Score (Erytheme)C
eti
ol®
CC
IPM N-Hexadecan
Skin compatibility was tested as well on Japanese skin.
Method: Human Patchtest, 20 % AS in cosmetic alcohol
Skin
Ca
re
Superior skin compatibility
BASF Personal Care9
Ingredients INCI w/w%
Eumulgin® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 4.5
Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin
Emollient 16.0
Carbopol 2 % Carbomer 15.0
KOH 20 % Kaliumhydroxide 0.6
Water Aqua 63.9
Emulsifiability of different emollients
Skin
Ca
re
BASF Personal Care10
magnification 400 x
50 µm
Droplet Size: E
Droplet Size: D
Droplet Size: C
Droplet Size: B
Droplet Size: A
Good emulsifiability
Standard formulation
with Eumulgin® VL 75
Skin
Ca
re
BASF Personal Care11
Ingredient INCI Droplet Size
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides A
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate B
Eutanol® G Octyldodecanol B
Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether C
Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride C
Paraffinum Liquidum C
Cyclomethicone D
Emulsifiability of different emollients
with Eumulgin® VL 75
Skin
Ca
re
BASF Personal Care12
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emulgade® PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5
Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5
Amphisol K Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 0.5
Cutina® GMS-V Glyceryl Stearate 1.0
Novata® AB Cocoglycerides 1.0
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 5.0
Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 1.0
Siliconoil Wacker AK 350 Dimethicone 0
Carbopol 980 Carbomer 0.3
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 6.0
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0
KOH 20 % Potassium Hydroxide 0.6
Perfume, Preservative q.s.
Water Aqua 74.1
O/W Cream with Cetiol® CC
Rec. DE 99/239/6
Skin
Ca
re
BASF Personal Care13
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0
Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 1.0
Zincum N29 Zinc Stearate 1
.0
Cetiol® A Hexyl Laurate 6.0
Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0
Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 1.0
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 8.0
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0
MgSO4.7H2O Magnesium Sulfate 1.0
Perfume, Preservative q.s.
Water Aqua 69.0
W/O Lotion with Cetiol® CC
Rec. DE 99/244/3
Skin
Ca
re
BASF Personal Care14
Ingredients INCI w/w %
I Eumulgin® S 21 Steareth 21 1.0
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 10.0
DC 200, 100 cs* Dimethicone 5.0
Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 3.0
Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 2.0
Mirasil C-DPDM** Cyclomethicone (and) Diphenyl Dimethicone 1.0
Phenonip*** Phenoxyethanol (and) Parabens 0.4
II Aqua qsp 100
Pemulen TR 1**** Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.3
Glycérine Glycerin 2.0
Pluriol E 1500***** PEG 1500 2.0
III Dry Flo Plus****** Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.0
Sodium Hyaluronate (sol. 1%) 5.0
Cooling Agent 10******* Menthoxypropandiol 0.5
IV Ethanol 10.0
Parfum Eau de Pêche 0.2
*: Dow Corning; **: SACI; ***: SIPCA; ****: BF Goodrich; *****: BASF; ******: National Starch; *******: Takasago
Skin
Ca
re
Refreshing Fluid with Cetiol® CC
Rec. 2C01966.212
BASF Personal Care15Su
n C
are
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
Dispersing performance for pigments
Increase of UV absorption
SPF enhancing capacity
Balanced sensory due to spreading ability
Advantages
BASF Personal Care16
Sp
read
ing
fast
slow
Solubilitylittle high
Cetiol ®AB
Cetiol® OE Cetiol® CC
Myritol® 331
Cyclomethicone
Solubility for crystalline UV filter &
Spreading performance
Su
n C
are
BASF Personal Care17
Solubility [%]
0
5
10
15
20
25C
eti
ol®
CC
Cyclo-
methicone
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Myritol® 331
Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
Cetiol® AB
Su
n C
are
BASF Personal Care18
Myritol® 331
0
5
10
15
20
25
30C
eti
ol®
CC
4-Methylbenzylidene CamphorSolubility [%]
Cyclo-
methiconeCetiol® AB
Su
n C
are
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C
BASF Personal Care19
METHOD:
Titanium dioxide was dispersed into the emollient under
stirring without homogenisation
(80 parts Emollient + 20 parts Titanium Dioxide
(Titanium Dioxide T 805, Degussa))
The pigment dispersion was assessed by microscope
examination and viscosity behaviour
A C
Dispersing performance for pigments
Su
n C
are
BASF Personal Care20
Emollient Viscosity Homogeneity
(mPas)
Myritol 331 / Cocoglycerides 14 000 A
Cetiol® CC / Dicaprylyl Carbonate 9 000 B
Cetiol PGL / Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 9 000 B
Paraffinum Liquidum 8 000 C
Cetiol OE / Dicaprylyl Ether 3 000 C
Cyclomethicone 3 000 C
Viscosity &
Homogeneity of Pigment Dispersions
Su
n C
are
BASF Personal Care21
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emollient 16.0
Neo Heliopan E 1000 Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 6.4
Neo Heliopan BB Benzophenone-3 1.6
Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 1.0
Carbopol® ETD 2001 Carbomer 0.3
Eumulgin® VL 75 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, 3.5
Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 3.0
Water Aqua 67.5
KOH 20 % Potassium Hydroxide 0.7
Perfume, preservative q.s.
Formula for SPF determination
Rec. DE 97/062/1
Su
n C
are
BASF Personal Care22
Result: In a given formulation the substitution of Mineral oil by
Cetiol® CC increases the SPF in vitro by > 100 %. Myritol® 331 &
Cetiol® AB have shown similar results.
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
SPF in vitro (Labsphere)
Paraffinum Liquidum
Ceti
ol®
CC
SPF enhancing capacity
Su
n C
are
BASF Personal Care23
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Eumulgin® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 4.0
Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin
Lanette® E Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 1.0
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 12.0
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.0
Neo Heliopan AV Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5
Neo Heliopan 303 Octocrylene 9.0
Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 5.0
Veegum Ultra Magnesium Aluminium Silicate 1.5
Keltrol T Xanthan Gum 0.5
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 3.0
Hydagen® B Bisabolol 0.5
Water Aqua 46.0
Perfume, Preservative q.s.
O/W Sun Lotion with Cetiol® CC
SPF 20 (in vivo*) Rec. DE 99/095/10
Su
n C
are
BASF Personal Care24
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.0
Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2.0
Beeswax 3.0
Zincum N 29 Zinc Stearate 1.0
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 11.0
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.0
Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 15.0
Isostearic Acid 1.0
Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 2.0
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0
Water Aqua 44.5
MgSO4·7 H2O Magnesium Sulfate 1.0
Hydagen® B Bisabolol 0.5
Perfume, Preservative q.s.
*: COLIPA, on 5 volunteers
W/O Sun Blocker with Cetiol® CC SPF
30 (in vivo)* Rec. DE 99/095/14
Su
n C
are
BASF Personal Care25
Solubility of emollient in propellant
Solubility of perfumes in emollient
Solubility of perfume/emollient mixture in propellant
Benefit
Preconditions
Positive influence on sensorics
Reduced whitening
AP
/De
o A
ero
so
ls
“Care effect“ as claim possible
Usage of emollients in AP/Deo aerosols
BASF Personal Care26
Miscible with propellants (up to ratio 1:1)
Enhances solubilization of perfumes in alcohol / solvent free
products
Cetiol® CC / perfume mixture miscible with propellant
(up to ratio 1:1)
Cetiol® CC
Specific suitability for AP/Deo aerosols
AP
/De
o A
ero
so
ls
BASF Personal Care27
Test procedure:
• 10 volunteers
• Defined application in armpit
• Evaluation of market relevant parameters
• Comparison of formulation with Cetiol® CC
against those based on IPM and Cyclomethicone
Sensory assessment by expert panel
AP
/De
o A
ero
so
ls
BASF Personal Care28
Ingredients INCI
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 13.0 - -
IPM Isopropyl Myristate - 13.0 -
DC 245 Cyclomethicone - - 13.0
Miglyol Gel B Caprylic/Capric Tryglyceride (and) 4.0 4.0 4.0
Stearalkonium Hectorite (and)
Propylene Carbonate
Reach 501 Aluminium Chlorohydrate 6.0 6.0 6.0
Hydagen® C.A.T. Triethyl Citrate 2.0 2.0 2.0
Propellant Butane/Propane 75.0 75.0 75.0
Preservative q.s. q.s. q.s.
IT/01/140/
- 1 - 3 - 4
AP/Deo aerosols
Test formulations for sensory assessment
AP
/De
o A
ero
so
ls
BASF Personal Care29
Tackiness much low
Whitening much low
Dry less much
Skin softness less much
Waxy much less
Cooling effect low high
General impression worse better
Absorption slow quick
Oily much less
Skin smoothness less much
1.0 1.0 2.00.02.0
N = 10
Sensorial comparison
Cetiol® CC vs. IPM - application axilla
AP
/De
o A
ero
so
ls
BASF Personal Care30
Tackiness much low
Whitening much low
Skin softness less much
Waxy much less
Cooling effect low high
General impression worse better
Absorption slow quick
Oily much less
Skin smoothness less much
1.0 1.0 2.00.02.0
Dry less much
N = 10
Sensory comparison
Cetiol® CC vs. DC 245 - application axilla
AP
/De
o A
ero
so
ls
BASF Personal Care31
Deo spray with Cetiol® CC
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Miglyol Gel B Caprylic/Capric Tryglyceride 4.0
(and) Stearalkonium Hectorite
(and) Propylene Carbonate
Reach 501 Aluminium Chlorohydrate 3.0
Hydagen® C.A.T. Triethyl Citrate 1.4
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 13.0
Hydagen® DCMF Chitosan 0.3
(4% aqueous solution
with Glycolic acid)
Perfume 1.0
Preservative q.s.
Propellant Butane/Propane 77.2
Rec. IT 00/42/11
AP
/De
o A
ero
so
ls
BASF Personal Care32
Very good perfume and propellant solubility
Improved sensory performance against
Cyclomethicone and Isopropyl Myristate
Summary
Silicon oil free as claim possible
Cetiol® CC
The new emollient for AP/Deo aerosols
AP
/De
o A
ero
so
ls
BASF Personal Care33
METHOD:
Development of benchmark formula which is similar in
terms of ingredients & percentage to standard market
formulations
Substitution of emollient in this formula to evaluate
their cleansing properties
Product quantity: 1.0 g Milk
Defined application
Evaluation in comparison to benchmark
ADVANTAGES:
Skin
Cle
an
sin
g
Improvement of cleansing abilities of make-up remover
Advantages
BASF Personal Care34
Skin
Cle
an
sin
g
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.0
(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5
Mineraloil Paraffinum Liquidum 7.5
IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 7.5
Water Aqua 78.5
Perfume, Preservative q.s.
Benchmark formula for
Skin Cleansing Test
Skin
Cle
an
sin
g
BASF Personal Care35
Reference Formula for
Skin Cleansing Test
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.0
(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5
Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum 6.0
IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 6.0
Emollient 3.0
Water Aqua 78.5
Perfume, Preservative q.s.
Skin
Cle
an
sin
g
BASF Personal Care36
Method
Lipstick
Foundation
Mascara
Rest time:
10 minutes
Skin
Cle
an
sin
g
BASF Personal Care37
Cegesoft® C 24
Cetiol® LC
Myritol® PC
Benchmark
Cyclomethicone
Cetiol® A
Make-up remover efficacy
reduced improved
Cetiol® CC
Cetiol® OE
Skin
Cle
an
sin
g
BASF Personal Care38
BASF Personal Care39
This document, or any answers or information provided herein by BASF, does not constitute a legally
binding obligation of BASF. While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are
presented in good faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided for your guidance only. Because many
factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the
suitability of a product for your particular purpose prior to use. It does not relieve our customers from the
obligation to perform a full inspection of the products upon delivery or any other obligation. The claims and
supporting data provided in this publication have not been evaluated for compliance with any jurisdiction’s
regulatory requirements and the results reported may not be generally true under other conditions or in
other matrices. Users must evaluate what claims and information are appropriate and comply with a
jurisdiction’s regulatory requirements. NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,
INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, ARE
MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION SET FORTH,
OR THAT THE PRODUCTS, DESIGNS, DATA, OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT
INFRINGING THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALL THE
DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA, OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR
TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE.
BASF Personal Care40
BACK-UP CHARTS
BASF Personal Care41
O/W - Rec. 99/239/6 (with Cetiol® CC) vs. Rec. 99/239/4 (with Cyclomethicone = 0-Line);
n = 10 human volunteers, pair comparison test
Pick-up
Consistency
Peaking
Cushion
Distribution
Absorption I
Absorption II
Smoothness
Tackiness
Oiliness
Waxiness
Powdery
good
high
high
much
easy
fast
fast
high
little
little
little
much
less good
low
little
little
difficult
slow
slow
little
much
much
much
little
21012
Skin
Ca
re
Dry, volatile silicone oil like skin feel