LESVOS

8th-15th MAY 2003

Tour Report

CELTIC BIRD TOURS

84, Coity Road, Bridgend, Glam. CF31 1LT +44[0]1656 645709

Birds@celtictours.org.uk www.celticbirdtours.com

LEADER: Geri Foster Thomas PARTICIPANTS: Robin Perry, Sheila Ryde, Mike Sullivan, Peter Carpenter. DAY ONE, Thursday 8th May: Geri and Mike left Gatwick and Robin and Sheila left Manchester for Mytilini Airport on Lesvos, very early on Thursday morning. Meanwhile Peter, who had previously flown from Canada to Athens, was continuing the journey from the smog and noisy bustle of Greece’s capital to the crystal seas and skies of Lesvos. Peter was the first to arrive followed by Geri and Mike and then Robin and Sheila. The flight into Mytilini over the Turkish mainland was memorable with the high, rocky, snow-covered mountains contrasting with the emerald green jewel of Lesvos set in the azure blue Aegean Sea. The walk through the shimmering heat haze provided the first birds of the holiday with House Martins, House Sparrows and the ubiquitous Crested Larks. Geri and Mike had been to the island before. Mikes tales of baggage handlers throwing luggage through the window of a tin shed were amusing but alarming. Luckily the airport, although small, has improved vastly since Mikes first visit! While waiting for the Manchester flight to arrive, Geri, Pete and Mike viewed the first of many Yellow Legged Gulls from the beach opposite the airport and Geri picked up the first of many Red Rumped Swallows. Out going travellers at the airport included Glamorgan Bird Club members Mike Powell who passed on details of his weeks birding, good sites etc. and Neville Davies who had also kindly left a written account and maps at the reception of our hotel. Also at the airport to meet the party was Eleni Mantzorou from Eressos Travel, Celtic Bird Tours agents on Lesvos and with her guidance the group had soon picked up the minibus from Hertz and was on the way to our hotel in Skala Kalloni. On the way Collared Dove, Hooded Crow and Barn Swallow were seen, as were brief views of Middle Spotted Woodpecker and a number of the distinctive black crowned G.g.atricapillus sub-species of Jay. Luckily for those in the back of the bus, better views of these species were to be had later in the holiday. This highlighted the need to share out the allocation of the front seat!! The journey, past the Gulf of Geras and over the mountains at Lampou Mili, took us through some beautiful scenery. We had a short stop at Kalloni Salt pans to view Black Winged Stilts, Little Egrets and the Greater Flamingo flock, through the heat haze. There were also close views of marsh terns such as Whiskered Tern and White Winged Black Tern. However, it was decided to press on to our hotel, change into ‘birding gear’ and get out birding properly equipped. While crossing Kalloni East River Bridge, Robin thought he picked up the song of River Warbler, which he was familiar with from birding in Eastern Europe but none of the rest of us heard it. As we arrived at our hotel, Skala Kalloni 2, the entire party were impressed with the attractive façade and grounds of the Hotel but more so with its close proximity to the famous Kalloni Pool. We were quickly allocated our rooms, where breeding Spanish Sparrows, House Sparrows and House Martins were in evidence on the balconies and the liquid tones of the resident Nightingale could be heard from the grounds. We picked up our packed lunches and met by Kalloni Pool. Although the vegetation was dense in places there was still plenty of water in the pool and the air was filled with 40+ hawking Whiskered Terns and White Winged Black Terns feeding on the many flying insects. In fact the road alongside the pool was scattered with a glistening layer of damselfly wings discarded by the terns! Two Common Terns also flew over from the bay. Geri and Sheila also had brief views of a perched Black Tern, which was lost in the mêlée as the flock took off. This proved to be the only one of the trip although as this species has an earlier passage to the other marsh terns, there had been more reported in the week prior to our arrival. Another, very evident species, was the many pairs of breeding Black-winged Stilts, each pair fiercely defending its territory. We all quickly came to realize that the vegetation was full of birds with 3 Black Headed Wagtails, 6 Squacco Herons, 7 drake Garganey, 6 Glossy Ibis, 4 Little Stint, 1 Temminck’s Stint, 4 Ruff, 2 Wood Sandpipers, 8 Coot and a Moorhen seen. The Tamarisk bushes and fields around the pool also produced Cetti’s Warblers, Sedge Warblers, Great Reed Warblers, Olivaceous Warblers, a Willow Warbler singing and thanks to Robins knowledge of bird song and acute hearing, a Savi’s Warbler which although seen by other birders later, was ‘invisible’ to all of us! ‘Hoodies’, Goldfinch, Chaffinch, ‘jangling’ Corn Buntings, Blackbird and Crested Larks were also seen and Common Swifts and Red Rumped Swallow joined the hirundine flocks. After a shower, a nice buffet dinner and a couple of drinks with Gary Harper, a Welsh birder friend of Geri’s staying at the same hotel, we filled in our check lists and found that a total of 41 species had been recorded by us during the afternoon. By now the journey was catching up with us all so we turned in for an early night. DAY TWO Friday 9th May: As arranged over dinner the previous evening, we dragged our selves, at varying speeds, out of our comfortable beds for a 6:30 am start. Geri had been up before us and the back of the bus was decorated with the Celtic Bird Tours poster and a Welsh flag, resplendent with its Red Dragon! Geri had also arranged for Gary to accompany us before breakfast to show us the nest site of a pair of Masked Shrikes, one of the principle target species of the trip. Having checked all the ‘usual suspects’ at Kalloni pool and adding Sand Martin to the trip list, we set of for the Potamia Valley. As we passed the West River, Mike picked out a Great White Egret amongst the Little Egrets. Initially we thought there were two, but one proved to be a much rarer three- legged Great White Patio Chair! Thus started our ‘Chair List’, soon to be added to with a two- legged Lesser Blue Patio Chair! We probably had had too much sun and/or Mythos beer the previous day……..!!!

After a short journey we arrived at our destination and parked the bus by a river bridge, underneath which a pair of Red Rumped Swallows nested. We had excellent views and photos of them collecting mud from puddles on the track. As we walked up the rough riverside path, the bushes were alive with bird song and the river with calling Marsh Frogs and Striped Necked Terrapin. In addition to many species seen the previous day, we soon added 4 Woodchat Shrike and a male Red Backed Shrike to our list along with excellent views of singing male Cirl Buntings, 6 stunning male Black Headed Buntings, Blue Tit, Great Tit, and Greenfinch. We also all had excellent views of Olivaceous Warbler, which had been seen poorly the previous day and some had good views of a cracking male Orphean Warbler. Another warbler, briefly seen and heard, caused some debate and may have been a Marsh Warbler. Then to cap it all we spent a while admiring the obliging Masked Shrike pair at their nest on the lowest branch of an olive tree. The views obtained will stay with us all, as a treasured memory. As we made our way home, for a well-deserved, breakfast, we narrowly missed running over a large Balkan Green Lizard near our hotel. All were agreed that early morning was a cooler, more comfortable time to bird watch and the birds also seemed to be more vocal and less skulking. After breakfast, we made our way to Kalloni Salt Pans. There was less heat haze than the previous day and the Greater Flamingo flock gave stunning views. In addition, there were at least 100 Ruff, a mixed flock of hundreds of Little Stint with smaller numbers of Temminck’s Stints, 1 Greenshank, 30+ Avocet, similar numbers of Black-winged Stilts, 2 Green Sandpipers flew off before everyone could get on them and a pair of Stone Curlew nested on one of the banks. A female Marsh Harrier was also seen over the fields between the saltpans and the East River and a Turtle Dove was on the overhead lines. While we were watching this wildlife spectacle in the company of some other birders, Peter was suddenly violently sick and returned to the Bus have a drink and to rest. He bravely decided to continue birding and we drove on round the salt pans, stopping to add Grey Plover, Little Ringed Plover, breeding Little Tern, and a River Warbler, that was heard by Robin and then seen by Geri at the corner where a stream joins the channel, sadly people in the back of the bus missed the bird but every body saw the locally notable Dalmatian Pelican in the channel around the salt pans. We drove on down to the shore to view 3 Great Crested Grebes and 1 Black-necked Grebe from the stone jetty, on the mirror like sea. Peter had once again taken a turn for the worse and decided to stay in the bus. The rest of the group took a walk across the ‘flooded Sheep Fields’ although there was little sign of flooding left! Other birders present told us that a pair of Rufous Bush Chat had recently been displaying on the few bushes present, but we failed to find them. However there were still many other birds present around the damp flashes. We all had excellent views of Red-throated Pipit, Black-headed Wagtail and Blue-headed Wagtail and a possible Grey-headed Wagtail was seen by some, but there was no sign of the reported Tawny Pipit that had been with them. Geri heard 2 Zitting Cisticola but was unable to spot them. However, he did manage brief views of an elusive Short-toed Lark. There were also 11 Kentish Plovers present and some of the group also found Grey Heron, Shoveler and Common Shelduck on the back saltpans. Then, great excitement! A pair of Eleonora’s Falcons flew directly over us and spent a few minutes circling over the field before flying off east. We made our way back to Peter, seeing Bee-Eaters along side the footbridge over the saltpans exit channel. Pete, who had managed to catnap in the bus and was feeling slightly better however, it was decided to return to the hotel for lunch so that Peter could spend the afternoon recuperating. On the return journey, while Geri was taking an unintentional ‘short cut’ through the labyrinthine back streets of Kalloni, Sheila proved herself to have a better sense of direction than all the men put together and also managed to find an occupied White Storks nest on an old brick chimney, (but she cunningly suppressed her sighting of a Feral Pigeon until we were all safely back in the hotel). Pete retired to bed and the rest of us eat our lunches sprawled on sun beds on the beach outside the hotel. It’s a tough life but someone has to live it!!!!! After checking on the usual Squacco Herons etc on Kalloni pool, we decided to visit the Lower East River during the afternoon. It proved a good decision as a Baillon’s Crake was found in a small reed bed 15 yards upstream from the ford. This was a lifer for the majority of the group. There were also many Little Bitterns clambering around in the riverside vegetation. We sadly dipped on a Barred Warbler which was disturbed by a farmers tractor but saw Sedge Warbler, Reed Warbler and Great Reed Warbler, 2 White Stork were feeding in the river and a Black Stork flew over. On returning to our hotel the lure of the swimming pool and poolside bar proved too tempting for us and we spent a pleasant hour reliving all the days experiences with other birders staying in the hotel, and having a dip in the pool before returning to our rooms to shower and change for dinner. Mike impressed both the locals and us with his diving and swimming prowess. This break, after the heat of the day, was so enjoyable that we ended up repeating it daily for the rest of the week! Suitably refreshed and recuperated from his bout of sickness, Peter joined the rest of us for dinner, as did Common Pipistrelle (45Hz) and Soprano Pipistrelle (55Hz) identified using Geri’s Bat Detector. After filling in our check lists, we socialized with other birders over a few drinks before bed. One joker reported seeing a red bird with four legs. Geri asked if he had ticked it and told him ‘if you want to see good birds, follow the dragon’. DAY THREE Saturday 9th May: We had decided the previous night that we would return to the saltpans and sheep fields, before breakfast partially to pick up the species we had missed on the previous visit but mainly to help Pete catch up on some of the species missed due to illness. This time we were lucky to have excellent views of Rufous Bush Chat and Peter successfully clawed back a number of species including Red-throated Pipit. A Green Toad was found wandering over one of the wet patches. We also bizarrely added the resident Wheel Chair to our Chair List along with a group of 7 Mute Swan flying overhead.

After breakfast, we headed up to the north of the island after an abortive attempt to find the reported Long Eared Owl roost. We stopped at ‘the Bandstand’, a lookout point on the mountain road over looking Kalloni as Geri had found Ruppell’s Warbler here on a previous visit. A female ‘Ruppell’s’ was found, but was only briefly in view as was an Orphean Warbler. Cirl Buntings sang from the bushes another birder picked up a distant Eleonora’s Falcon over the mountain ridge and a large, black Agama Lizard that watched our every move from the top of a large rock. On the road outside Petra we saw a young couple viewing an olive grove and stopped to ask them if they were ‘on to anything good’. It turned out they had just stopped to recover their breath. They had already walked from their apartment in Anaxos and intended to walk to Molivos! Geri told them what a crazy idea that was in the heat of the day. They asked if we would give them a lift and after a short discussion in which it was pointed out that we intended stopping at a number of sites before getting to Molivos, they were happy to tag along so we agreed and Duncan and Pat joined our expedition. Geri stopped at a lay-by near a disco along the cliff top road in search of Ruppell’s Warbler. A Beech Martin was sadly found as a road casualty. We had good views of Black-eared Wheatear and Cretzschmar’s Bunting here and at the next lay-by, overlooking Molivos, we finally had cracking views of a singing male Ruppell’s Warbler on top of a rocky headland. As we didn’t all get on to the bird, Geri lead us down a track, leading out on to the headland. The bird was relocated singing from the top of a Cork Oak and we all had excellent views. This called for a celebration, so Sheila passed her camera to Duncan and we had a ‘Team Photo’ taken (see cover photo; copyright Sheila Ryde). We then moved on to the Reservoir inland from Molivos. Geri picked up a distant raptor in his ‘scope, which he thought could have been a Levant Sparrowhawk. There was very little on the water except for the usual Gulls but 3 more male Ruppell’s Warblers sang from the bushes, as did two beautiful male Subalpine Warblers. As we were watching these a Black Kite drifted lazily overhead and Common Kestrel was seen. We then continued on towards Molivos and stopped at a nest site for Sombre Tit and Western Rock Nuthatch but Great Tits had taken over the tits nest hole and the nuthatch nest had been abandoned since Geri’s last visit. A Sombre Tit was seen briefly by many of the group but Geri missed it! He did not however miss the roadside European Glass Snake, a peculiar, yard long legless lizard. Rumbling stomachs reminded us that it was time for lunch, so we drove up to Molivos Castle for food, a cold drink in the ‘Panorama Taverna’ and wonderful views. There were no Alpine Swifts with the circling Common Swifts but Duncan and Pat told us that there had been 80+ over a rocky out crop near Petra earlier in the day. Sadly, when we finally got there, they had moved on so we said good-bye to our new friends and headed back to our hotel. DAY FOUR Sunday 10th May: This morning our pre breakfast trip was to the Upper East River. After an abortive attempt to find an owl roost on the outskirts of Kalloni, we stopped at a Middle Spotted Woodpecker nest site in an electricity pole and watched the bird closely for 10 minutes. We then continued up the track to join another birder watching a pair of Western Rock Nuthatch at a nest site at the base of a dry stonewall. Good views were obtained of the black-throated form of Black-eared Wheatear, near the goat pen but there was no sign of the reported Finch’s Wheatear. We also failed to find any Cinereous Buntings although we did manage to see Cretzschmar’s Bunting and poor views of an Ortolan Bunting. We drove on up the track past a row of beehives, a possible Blue Rock Thrush was seen distantly by some and a male Ruppell’s Warbler sang from the top of a nearby bush. A Rufous Bush Chat pair also showed well and on returning to the goat pen, a singing Short-toed Lark was also seen. After breakfast, we took a short walk along the West River where a Long-legged Buzzard was seen from the farm. We then went in search of the junior school at Papiana, a well-known roosting site of Scops Owl. The sleeping owl was soon found in a row of poplar trees behind the school and successfully photographed by Robin. Peter also found our first Persian Squirrel running along the school wall. We then continued on to our next destination at Achladeri. On the way we stopped briefly at the saltpans looking for the reported Isabelline Wheatear at the entrance and a Tawny Pipit near the water treatment works. Neither was found but we did see a distant Lesser Grey Shrike though the heat haze. A dead Grass Snake was picked up on the road. We then moved on to “ Derbyshire” a well-watched area of wetlands at the road junction to Mytilini. However the pools were drying fast and the only species of note were Ruddy Shelduck and Kestrel. As we approached Achladeri, we decided to stop at a picturesque Taverna alongside a small bay. We ordered Greek salad and drinks and watched Common Terns and the world, go by. The Taverna quickly filled up with locals who had gathered to buy fresh fish from the local fishermen when they arrived with their catch. Soon the mouthwatering smell of freshly cooked seafood and herbs assailed us as the Taverna owner brought out dishes of giant prawns, barbecued Red Snapper and Sea Bream with large bowls of salad, fresh bread and Retsina. The attraction of our packed lunches diminished. However we decided to resist temptation and move on, otherwise no birding would take place that afternoon!

[Photo copyright: Sheila Ryde] Other birders had reported Kruper’s Nuthatch, another of our ‘Target birds’ opposite the entrance to Achladeri Army Camp but Robin, knowing the Greek soldiers aversion to foreigners with cameras near their bases, had a bad feeling about their sub- machine guns, his camera and the mental image of languishing in a grotty Greek jail cell! We decided that discretion was the better part of valor and moved on to a nesting site of the species a short distance down the road, even though Geri had been told that the young had fledged and abandoned the nest hole. We parked at a picnic site and wandered through the cool shade of the pine forest listening for bird song. We followed a stream uphill and found Spotted Flycatcher and a singing male Serin, two others sang, unseen nearby. We were joined by other birders from our hotel and decided to spread out to try to find the nuthatch family. Mike was taking photos of the beautiful Wild Gladioli’s and Wood Asphodel and Geri and Sheila were backtracking, looking for her glasses which had been dropped somewhere along our route, when Robin yelled for us to ‘come quickly’. We all converged on him standing in a small clearing near the abandoned nest hole, where two adult Kruper’s Nuthatches, feeding their two vociferous young, surrounded him! They seemed totally unaware of the awe struck group of birders below them. All present reveled in superb views of this enigmatic species. Well pleased with our success, we returned to the bus to eat lunch. While we were eating, one of our birder friends informed us that a family party of Short Toed Treecreeper was feeding in the trees around his parked car but hunger won and only Geri went with him to see them. Unfortunately they were not found again after lunch. Feeding Coal Tits, Long-tailed Tits and Cuckoo were a poor substitute.

[Kruper’s Nuthatch Photo copyright: Richard Brooks] Returning to Kalloni, we finally found the site of the Long-eared Owl roost and Sheila quickly found two roosting birds well camouflaged in the dark dense foliage. Robin got some wonderful photos as a shaft of sunlight lit up one of the birds. Richard Brooks also arrived to take photos as we left, well satisfied with a wonderful day. The day had been a rewarding but tiring one and after our usual routine. (Bar/pool/shower/lunch) most decided to go to bed early and to miss out Mondays pre breakfast trip but when the time came, the lure of Richard Brooks slide show, at the nearby Malemi Hotel, proved too much for Peter, Sheila and Geri. On returning to our hotel a group of birders had gathered to discuss conflicting reports of a possible Terek Sandpiper seen briefly at the mouth of the West River. As the Celtic Tours group had decided to have a late start and were already asleep, Geri arranged with Gary Harper and another birder, to check out the rumors for them selves. DAY FIVE Monday 11th May: By 6:10 the lads were out at the river-mouth watching a stunning Terek Sandpiper perched in a log on the shoreline! Gary stayed on the bird while Geri ran back to the hotel and roused the group from their beds, also alerting other birders staying in the hotel and more birding around Kalloni pool. In no time a major twitch had been organized and every one soon had excellent telescope views of this uncommon eastern migrant as it feed along the shore. What a start to the day! On returning to the Hotel, a Water Rail was heard on Kalloni pool. A small group of Mallard was also new for the trip list. After breakfast we set off to the west of the island. Our first stop was near Filia, where Robin rushed to save a Spur-thighed Tortoise from being crushed by an oncoming lorry. It rewarded him by ‘anointing’ his hands with Tortoise Poo much to the amusement of the rest of us. We then stopped at the rocky gorge nicknamed ‘The Grand Canyon’ by birders. Our target species here was Crag Martin and the group quickly got onto one hunting back and forth across the cliff face but a Roller seen briefly by some was not seen by the rest. We then carried on to the Eressos/Sigri junction where Geri had seen Isabelline Wheatear on a previous visit. After protracted searching, we finally caught up with a single obliging bird. A dead Hedgehog, at the roadside, was an addition to our mammals list. Travelling through increasingly barren terrain, we came to Ipsilou Monastery, sitting imposingly on top of a rocky outcrop on an isolated hill. Scanning around the surrounding countryside, we saw Stonechat and distant views of a pair of Rock Sparrows. A single-track road leading up through the lower tree covered slopes was mercifully ‘one way’. A Woodlark was seen at our first stopping place alongside an anti aircraft gun and radar. I wonder what the monks use those for? Nearby we saw a pair of Blue Rock Thrush that nest in the monastery wall. There had been reports of an Icterine Warbler just below the monastery on the footpath down but all we could find was a Blackcap. We also watched 3 Lesser Kestrels and 3 Eleonora’s Falcons catching and feeding on flying insects on the wing below us from the top of the hill. We drove slowly down the narrow road from the hilltop and saw many buntings, including Cretzschmar’s, Cirl and the ubiquitous Corn and Black- headed Buntings but no Cinereous Buntings! We also saw Linnet, Cuckoo, Rufous Bush Chats, another fleeting view of Rock Sparrow and a Long-legged Buzzard carrying a snake into its nest site on the cliffs. On reaching the bottom, Geri decided to do another circuit of the hill to try to find the elusive Cinereous Bunting and luckily we found a male singing from a treetop, below the road, half way up the hill.

The stop at Ipsilou had been very enjoyable with wonderful views and wonderful birds. The only disappointment was the poor views of Rock Sparrow. We decided that it would be worth checking the ‘Fossil Forest’ site where they had also been seen. On the way we had excellent views of a Little Owl, sitting on top of a shepherds hut. When we arrived there some birders reported having found a Rock Sparrow a short while before, but we were either unlucky or a mistaken identification had occurred because all sparrows present seemed to be House Sparrows including one that other birders were accepting as a Rock Sparrow! We decided to waste no more time and head for the west coast in time for lunch. The countryside we passed through was spectacular, with the treeless grassy hillsides reminiscent of The Brecon Beacons in South Wales but without the rain!

[Cretzschmar’s Bunting photo copyright Richard Brooks] When we arrived at Sigri, we relaxed on the quiet beach eating our lunch then retired to a nearby Taverna for a cold drink. While enjoying the beautiful view we noticed a Common Sandpiper feeding amongst the rock pools below us. After lunch we headed out towards Faneromeni, passing a small flock of Jackdaws as we left Sigri. The beautiful roadsides banks were covered in Yellow Broom, Pink and White Rock Roses (Cistus sp.) and Lavenders. We parked the bus amongst the Bamboos at the lower ford near Faneromeni beach. There were a number of birders present, looking for a Great Snipe which had been seen earlier before being flushed by a local on a moped riding down the river bed (which doubles as a road!). Little Egrets and Moorhen were still present feeding on the tiny frogs, which were present in thousands and the reeds held Great Reed Warbler. We decided to do some general birding in the area and to return later. We walked down the narrow stony track and were lucky to find a Roller among the small farm fields. When we returned the rest of the birders had left so we quietly walked ten yards upstream to give us a view around the corner and there on a shingle bank, in the middle of the river, was the Great Snipe preening. Patience pays off! It was getting late, so we headed for home. After dinner some of the group relaxed in the bar with our other birder friends and were joined by Geri’s friends from the Pembrokeshire group who were also staying in Skala Kalloni, a relaxing end to a wonderful day. First bird of the day: Terek Sandpiper. Last bird of the day: Great Snipe. WOW! DAY SIX Tuesday 12th May: The early morning trip today was to the inland lake near the Potamia Valley. Here we saw 3 Night Heron, although only one obligingly perched in sight and Little Grebe along with many other species seen elsewhere. We also took a walk along the upper West River, where we added more chairs than birds to our lists, the area being blighted with unsightly piles of rubble! A Marsh Harrier was seen distantly and the Long-legged Buzzard was on its regular perch in the large tree to the west of the little chapel. We had decided that a trip to the Napi Valley to see Olive Tree Warbler was a good idea but Geri had never visited this site. Sheila excelled herself in navigating us there so well. Instructions from other birders who had already visited there earlier in the week also helped us enormously. When we arrived, another guided Tour Group that we had met on numerous occasions around the island was already on the Olive Tree Warbler and we all had distant views of the bird. The other party moved on but we waited to get better views. We didn’t have to wait long before the bird flew to the top of a closer bush to sing.

[Olive Tree Warbler photo copyright: Richard Brooks] Further down the road we joined the other group to try to find Hoopoe that had been heard calling. It was heard distantly again but not seen. Sheila seemed doomed to dip on Hoopoe forever. However, most people (except Geri!!) saw a Sombre Tit. We parted company with our friends and traveled on up the valley towards Kapi, where we stopped alongside a pool to check for birds. At least 20 Yellow-legged Gulls were washing and drinking but nothing else was present. A car pulled up alongside us and we were surprised to see Duncan and Pat in their new hire car! We cut short our conversation when Geri saw a Hoopoe flying off towards a patch of Pine trees with its typical ‘butterfly flight’ on black and white wings. We all gave chase on foot and after a short while, were rewarded with excellent views of the Hoopoe. Sheila was very happy that her ‘bogey bird’ had finally been seen. A second, distant bird was seen flying into an army camp. As we left, we noticed a White Stork had landed in the pool to drink. As we watched another Hoopoe flew across! Just like buses, you wait hours for one and then three arrive together! We drove on down to Skala Sykamineas, a quiet and quaint little village with a picturesque harbor, surrounded by Tavernas and with a beautiful little white washed Greek Orthodox Church perched on top of a rock outcrop in the harbor. A pair of Audouin’s Gulls had been seen. The only bird present was a Shag, which was new for our trip list. It was time for lunch and Sheila and Geri decided to give the packed lunch a miss and eat in one of the Tavernas on the harbor side. After an enjoyable meal of freshly caught and grilled Sardines and Black Sea Bream, Greek salad and fresh bread, washed down with a bottle of Retsina (which the rest of the group helped us drink), we drove back up the hill to Sikamia to look for White Throated Robin at a site where they had been seen in 2000 but they were not there so we moved on and stopped again to Raptor watch in a valley leading up to the peak of Mount Lepetimnos. A group of 4 large Raptors were seen riding thermals just below the mountain peak. Although distant, Geri’s telescope was powerful enough to pick out the white wing patches and tail typical of juv. Golden Eagle on the largest bird but no detail could be made out on the 3 smaller birds. Geri was sure of his identification but the others were not convinced. There was some debate as to which route to take home but we ended up taking the mountain road through Pelopi, Ypsilometopo, and Stipsi. We stopped at one large crag where many Crag Martins were nesting and had excellent views of a Peregrine Falcon. Although few birds were seen the picturesque mountain villages and extensive views made it a memorable journey. After dinner we all walked up to the Malemi Hotel for part two of the slide show by Richard Brooks. Once again the photos were excellent and a Turkish Gecko was on the ceiling, hunting mosquitoes and other insects attracted to the lights. By the end of the evening we were all very tired and most made their way straight back to the hotel after buying photos and books from Mr. Brooks. Geri stayed to talk and drink with other birders and there the identification of the Golden Eagle was confirmed in conversation with another birder/photographer that had been raptor watching from the top of Mount Lepetimnos at the same time the group had been in the valley. He said it had been present for a few days and seen by many and that the other 3 birds had probably been Booted Eagles although a number of Short-toed Eagles had also been seen along with a heavy passage of Eleonora’s Falcons and a Levant Sparrowhawk.

DAY SEVEN Wednesday 13th May: The majority of the group had decided last night to have a late start but Mike and Geri had decided to use up every minute of the holiday and so went to visit the East River again. There were few birders about and the river was full of waders with at least 30 Ruff, 20+ Little Stints, 2 Temminck’s Stints and a Little Ringed Plover. There were also large numbers of Whiskered Tern, Common Tern, Little Tern and White Winged Black Tern at the river mouth. A Mediterranean Gull, seen by Gary Harper had flown before Mike and Geri got on to it. A singing Lesser Whitethroat was the only new addition to the bird list. After breakfast we headed up into the Potamia Valley, to look for the Olive Tree Warbler and Barred Warbler reported from there. It was found in the olive grove on the opposite bank to the Masked Shrike nest site and it showed well for some of the group at the top of a dead bush in the riverbed. Geri also refound the Barred Warbler a few yards upstream but the views although diagnostic, were brief and even though other birders present saw it, some of our group were too far away and missed it. We then went in search of a Sardinian Warbler near the new reservoir. It was heard but not seen. A Hoopoe also flew across the road and into the olive grove. We were reminded that birding and driving don’t always go together as we almost took a detour into a stream! Shaken but unharmed we went on our way. We then took the coast road along the west shore of The Gulf of Kallonis and headed straight for Tavari where there had been a passage of Yelkouan Shearwaters on the previous day. Luckily, there were still hundreds of Shearwaters streaming past. Sheila, Robin and Peter climbed the headland to watch and also had Rock Dove on the cliffs. Geri and Mike opted for a less strenuous ‘seawatch’, sitting on a bench on the beach. We then moved on to Skala Eressos, where there had been a dubious record of 50 ‘Pygmy Cormorants’ the day before. They turned out, as expected, to be 50 Shag but we decided to relax and eat our lunches here on the beach and then find a Taverna for a drink. After a slightly extended lunch break we set off to ‘bird’ our way back along the road via Messotopos and Agra. We stopped a short way out of Messotopus, to check a stand of Poplars for Golden Oriole and were joined by Gary Harper and his family, who were traveling past. Almost immediately after, a Short-toed Eagle flew over. We then followed it for a while, over the mountains, occasionally getting a glimpse of it in the distance. Just before we got to Agra we stopped at a fortified pass over a mountain ridge leading down into Agra town and from here we finally saw Alpine Swift hunting over the buildings of Agra. We joined the coast road at Apothikes where a Little Egret and Grey Heron were seen on the small marsh and stream near the sea. Although it was getting late, we stopped next at Devils Bridge and walked up to the tiny Chapel. There was no sign of most of the species reported from there on previous days. A family party of Stonechat and some Linnets were the only birds around the Chapel. A short stop at Parakila marshes was also disappointing with virtually no birds present and although a further stop at the Parakila River was more promising, no new species were added at either stop. Even so the drive along the coast in the evenings soft light was very enjoyable. Back at the hotel we completed our checklist for the day and after dinner followed our usual routine of a few drinks. We exchanged phone numbers with the friends we had made and headed for bed relatively early. DAY EIGHT Thursday 14th May: No pre-breakfast birding trip today! Sadly our holiday was finally at an end and Peters flight for Athens left early so Geri had arranged with Eleni that he and Mike would accompany Peter to the airport in the minibus and that a taxi would pick up Sheila and Robin from the hotel later in the day to prevent them having too long a wait at the airport. On the way to the airport a Lesser Grey Shrike was seen perched on a dead tree, to the east of the salt pans. Once Peter had been seen off on his flight to Athens, Mike and Geri checked in their bags and went out to the beach opposite the airport to look for a Black Redstart reported by another birder from our hotel. Unfortunately it had moved on. There were a number of other birders there, so together we did some sea watching. It soon became apparent that there was a steady passage south of Yelkouan Shearwaters but that there were also Cory’s Shearwaters passing in smaller numbers. There were also approximately 12 Dolphins feeding off shore, although they were too distant to identify specifically. The remainder of the morning was spent using up our Euros in the nearest bar where we watched a Spur-thighed Tortoise on the nearby waste ground. It had been planned that Eleni would see us of but she had been stuck in traffic and the Gatwick flight had been brought forward, eventually she arrived and Geri presented her with ‘y draig goch’ the Red Dragon flag of Wales that had held pride of place in the back window of our minibus for the past week. She also had mementos for Geri to take back to Wales. Meanwhile back at the hotel, Sheila and Robin found themselves with two taxis due to a translation error at hotel reception. The unwanted taxi sent away, they headed to the Airport passing a White Pelican on the way. Unfortunately it was only the tame one that has been residing at Kalloni Square since 1997. Eventually after a long wait at the airport, they too were airborne and heading for Manchester.

DAY NINE Friday 15th May: Day nine? There is no day nine! The holiday is over. Go home, go home now, do not pass go do not collect £200! Ah, but Mike and Geri didn’t feel like ending the holiday so they birded their way from Gatwick back to Wales, stopping off at Wraysbury Gravel Pits for Great Cormorant, Tufted Duck, Pochard, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Herring Gull, Black Headed Gull. Down Magna Carta Lane to see the nest building Ring-necked Parakeets (a lifer for Mike), Green Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Wood Pigeon, Mistle Thrush, Song Thrush, Common Treecreeper, Eurasian Nuthatch and then on to Reading services where a Hobby flew over and Pied Wagtail, Meadow Pipit and Skylark were seen. A petrol stop at Leigh Delamare provided Dunnock and Robin. Thus adding a further 20 species to their personal holiday lists! REFERENCES 1.Birding in Lesvos Richard Brooks Brookside Publishing ISBN 0-9527249-0-1 2.Birding on the Greek Island of Lesvos Richard Brooks Brookside Publishing ISBN 0-9527249-2-8 3. Lesvos Update 2002 Richard Brooks Brookside Publishing ISBN 0-9527249-6-0 4. Field Guide to the Birds of the Middle East R.F.Porter, S.Christensen, P.Schiermacker-Hensen T&A.D.Poyser ISBN 0-25661-076-3 5. Collins Bird Guide K.Millarney, L. Svensson, D. Zetterstrom, P.J.Grant HarperCollins Publishers ISBN 0-00-710082-5 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks are due to: Neil Donaghy for being a good boss!! Paul Parsons, Dave Lewis, Martin Hnatiuk and Neil Tovey for their trip report and particularly Paul Parsons for help with planning the trip itinerary. Neville Davies, Mike Powell, Jeff & Jan Morris, Bernie Starkey and particularly Gary Harper for up to date bird information while on the island The Staff of Hertz International (Mytilini) for efficient service. The Staff of Kalloni 2 Hotel for their warm welcome and courteous service. Eleni Mantzorou of Eressos Travel for all her help and support. And last but not least to: Richard Brooks for inspiring birders to go to Lesvos in the first place and for allowing the use of his excellent photographs! POST SCRIPT It is with deep sadness that I heard of the death of Mike Sullivan. He died at home suddenly on Wednesday 18th June, just over a month after the trip to Lesvos, which he enjoyed so much. His many friends in; the Cardiff Naturalists Society, the Glamorgan Bird Club and the South Wales Geological Society will miss him. Our condolences go out to his family. Geri Thomas Celtic Bird Tours

APPENDIX 1 SPECIES LISTS A. Bird List: 140 Little Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, Black-necked Grebe, Cory’s Shearwater, Yelkouan Shearwater, Little Bittern, Night Heron, Squacco Heron, Little Egret, Great White Egret, Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Black Stork, White Stork, Glossy Ibis. Greater Flamingo, Ruddy Shelduck, Common Shelduck, Mallard, Garganey, Shoveler. Black Kite, Short-toed Eagle, Marsh Harrier, Sparrowhawk, Levant Sparrowhawk, Long-legged Buzzard, Golden Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Common Kestrel, Eleonora’s Falcon, Peregrine Falcon. Water Rail, Baillon’s Crake, Moorhen, Coot. Black-winged Stilt, Avocet, Stone Curlew, Little Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Grey Plover, Little Stint, Temminck’s Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Ruff, Great Snipe, Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Terek Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper. Yellow-legged Gull, Common Tern, Little Tern, Whiskered Tern, Black Tern, White-winged Black Tern. ‘Feral Pigeon’, Rock Dove, (various types breeding in towns, and apparently pure breed rock doves on West Coast), Collared Dove, Turtle Dove. Cuckoo, Scops Owl, Little Owl, Long-eared Owl, Common Swift, Alpine Swift. Bee-eater, Roller, Hoopoe, Middle Spotted Woodpecker. Short-toed Lark, Crested Lark, Wood Lark, Sand Martin, Crag Martin, Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, House Martin, Red-throated Pipit, Yellow Wagtail (sub sp. Black-headed Wagtail and Blue-headed Wagtail). Rufous Bush Chat, Nightingale, Stonechat, Isabelline Wheatear, Black-eared Wheatear (both pale throated and black throated forms), Blue Rock Thrush, Blackbird. Cetti’s Warbler, Fan-tailed Warbler (aka: Zitting Cisticola), River Warbler, Savi’s Warbler, Sedge Warbler, Marsh Warbler, Reed Warbler, Great Reed Warbler, Olivaceous Warbler, Olive Tree Warbler, Subalpine Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Ruppell’s Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Barred Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Blackcap, Willow Warbler. Spotted Flycatcher, Long-tailed Tit, Sombre Tit, Coal Tit, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Kruper’s Nuthatch, Western Rock Nuthatch, Short-toed Treecreeper. Red-backed Shrike, Lesser Grey Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, Masked Shrike, Jay, Jackdaw, Hooded Crow, Raven, Starling. House Sparrow, Spanish Sparrow, Rock Sparrow, Chaffinch, Serin, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Linnet, Cirl Bunting, Cinereous Bunting, Ortolan Bunting, Cretzschmar’s Bunting, Black-headed Bunting, Corn Bunting. B. Mammal List. Total 6 Persian Squirrel, Beech Martin, Hedgehog, Common Pipistrelle (45Hz), Soprano Pipistrelle (55Hz), Dolphin sp. C. Herptile List. Total 10 Spur-thighed Tortoise, Stripe-necked Terrapin, Agama Lizard (dark and mottled forms), Balkan Green Lizard, Peleponnese Wall Lizard (or Balkan Wall Lizard?), European Glass Lizard, Turkish Gecko, Dice Snake. Marsh Frog, Green Toad. D. Invertebrate List. Total 10 Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail, False Apollo, Large White, Orange Tip, Small Copper, Common Blue, Meadow Brown, Small Heath. Broad –bodied Chaser.