Care and Repair_ Zips_tcm71-55916

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ippers

This reference leaet on zippers includes information on construc-

tion, selection, and care, as well as basic and special zipper appli-

cations. A zipper is a very important element in the construction of

a garment or project. lt not only serves to fasten and decorate but

also contributes to the design and quality of the nished item.

There are many different ways to install a zipper. You can

feel condent that each zipper technique in this leaet was

carefully researched and evaluated for ease of application

and nished appearance. The newest sewing aids were tested

and included if they helped when applying the zipper.

The prototype of todays zipper was actually a series of hooks and

eyes that closed mechanically. It was invented in 1891 by an engi-

neer named Whitcomb L. Judson. First used as a closure for mail

bags, tobacco pouches, and boots, Judsons zipper was eventually

adapted for use in clothing and marketed as the C-Curity Placket

Fastener. The early zipper was not an immediate success because

it was rather crude and tended to come open.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PageConstruction ..... .. ............................... 3

Coats & Clark Zippers .. .......... ............. ..... 4

Zipper Preparation ............................... .5

Centered Application .............................. 7

Lapped Application ................................ 8

Fly Front Application ............................... 9

Flat-Fell Application ............................... 9

Exposed Application .............................. 1 0

Exposed Zipper In A Pocket Application ............ . . 1 0

Separating Exposed Application .................... 11

Separating Covered Application .................... 11

Invisible Application .............................. 12

In 1913, Swedish-bern engineer Gideon Sundback developed a

zipper using metal teeth instead of hooks and eyes. This was the

prototype for todays zipper. Sundback is known as the father of

the zipper industry and was vice president of Talon until his death

in 1954.

Around 1940, research on coil zippers began in Europe. The rst

coil zipper was made of two interlocking brass coils. However,

these coils could be permanently bent out of shape, making it

impossible to operate the zipper. lt wasnt until after the discoveryof stronger, more exible synthetics that a viable coil zipper could

be designed. Coil zippers became an important part of the zipper

market in the early 1960s.

Today, there are many different types of zippers available to the

home sewer. Zippers are manufactured in a multitude of different

lengths and styles. This leaet will help you learn to install a zipper

and help you to select the zipper that best suits your project.

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Coats PLC

History of ippers


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ippers

A zipper consists of interlocking coils or teeth, attached to tapes, and

operated by means of a slider.

Basically, the coils or teeth hook together within the slider.

The inside of the slider is designed with curved edges. As the

slider is pulled up when closing a zipper, the coil or teeth are

spread apart, then interlocked within the slider as the tape

straightens. The coil or teeth from each side t alternately

between each other. (This procedure is reversed to open the

zipper.)

There are three types of zipper construction: coil, molded,

and stamped. Each type is manufactured in many sizes and

with different features; for example, separating or closed

bottom. Also, the zipper characteristics vary depending on

the manufacturer.

Coil

The coil is made of 100% polyester or 100%

nylon; polyester is stronger and more heat

resistant than nylon. The coil iseither stitched onto the tape or

woven into the tape while the

tape is being woven (1). Quality

coil zippers today are extremely

split resistant, and, therefore,

do not accidentally pull open.

The invisible zipper is a type of coil zipper.

However, it is manufactured so that after it

is stitched to the garment, the coil curls to the wrong side. From the

right side, it looks like a seam.

Molded

The teeth of the plastic molded

zipper are actually formed right

on the zipper tape (2).

Therefore, the teeth do not

separate from the tape. Most

often used for outerwear and

decorative purposes, the teeth

on molded zippers are larger

than those on all-purpose zippers.

Stamped

The stamped zipper has metal

teeth which are clamped onto

the zipper tape (3). The size of

the teeth vary depending on

the purpose of the zipper.

Parts of aZipper

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Constructions


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ippers

Coats & Clark manufactures a zipper for every use.

All Purpose

Polyester All- Purpose Zipper is a coil zipper that is soft, exible,

and lightweight yet very strong. The polyester coil is actually woven

into the polyester tape. This results in a zipper that is extremely split

resistant. (lt will not accidentally pull open.) Coats & Clark designs

its coil zipper with a at covered back so that the zipper is smooth

against the skin and protects undergarments. The Polyester All-Pur-

pose Zipper is suitable for fabrics of all weights and in skirts, pants,

dresses, and home decorating items.

Metal All-Purposeis a stamped metal zipper with a closed bot-

tom. A Metal All-Purpose Zipper is suitable in pants, skirts, dresses,sportswear and home decorating items.

Special Purpose

Brass Jean Zipper and Heavy Trouser Metal Zipperare stamped

brass metal zippers with a closed bottom. They are especially

designed for a y front application in jeans, work pants, and casual

skirts in medium-to heavyweight fabrics.

Trouser Zipper is a polyester coil zipper with a closed bottom. lt

is only available in an 11 length and is designed for use in mens

pants.

Robe Zipperis a coil zipper available in 30 and 36 lengths. lt

is recommended for construction or replacement.

Coverall Zipperis a metal zipper with both top and bottom

locking sliders for coveralls and overalls.

Extra Long Metal Zipperis a stamped brass zipper with a

closed bottom. lt is available in long lengths and is specially de-

signed for slipcovers and other home decorating items, as well

as various craft projects.

Seperating

Coats & Clark has stamped, molded and coil construction

separating zippers. Coats offers separating zippers suitable for

lightweight, medium-weight or heavyweight fabrics and zippers

with one slider or dual sliders.

Coil Seperating Zipper is exible and strong without being

bulky making it suitable for hand knit sweaters, childrenswear

and light to medium weight jackets.

Light Weight Seperating Zipperis recommended for bustiers,

lightweight jackets and sweaters. lt is ideal for silk-like and other

formal wear fabrics.

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Coats and Clark Zippers


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ippers

Medium Weight Metal Separating Zipperis recommended

for jackets, sportswear, and home decorating items.

Heavy Weight Metal Separating Zipperis suggested for

jackets and sportswear.

Sleeping Bag Zipperis a polyester coil zipper 100 long. lt

has a dual separating slider and can used for sleeping bag

construction or replacement.

Reversible Separating Jacket Zipperhas brass teeth and

a slider with a pull that ips to either side of the zipper.

Sporty

Coats sport zippers are constructed of molded plastic which

is lightweight yet strong and durable. The tape is designed

with extra fullness added so that when applied, it results in a

particularly smooth and straight zipper application.

Closed Bottom Molded is light in weight and decorative and

is often used in pockets of ski wear, in sleeve and pants vent

openings, as well as in pants and skirts.

Separating Moldedis a plastic molded separating zipper.

lts decorative appearance makes it suitable for ski wear and

outdoor wear as well as all types of jackets and vests, plus craft

items, accessories and home decorating items.

Dual Separating Parka Molded Zipperis a separating plastic

molded zipper with two sliders so that it can be opened fromboth the top and bottom. lt is especially suitable for longer

length jackets, coats, ski suits, and for all types of action sports-

wear.

Invisible

Invisible Zipperis a polyester coil zipper, is lightweight and ex-

ible yet strong. When stitched to a garment, it becomes hidden

in the seam and only the pull tab is visible. The invisible zipper is

used for pants, skirts, dresses, and home decorating items.

Selection

To choose the appropriate type of zipper, consider the gar-

ment design and the fabric type and weight. Refer to page 4 for

descriptions of the various types of zippers available.

To select the proper zipper length, check the pattern enve-

lope. Be sure to use a zipper that is long enough to preventstrain when getting in and out of the garment.

If unable to nd a zipper in the desired length, select a longer

zipper and shorten it following the instructions on page 5.

With an exposed zipper application, consider selecting a zip-

per in a contrasting colour.

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ippers

Preparation

Pre-shrink the fabric before beginning a project.

Press the zipper from the wrong side to remove any packaging

folds.

Length of Opening

Measure the zipper from the lower edge of the bottom stop to

the top of the slider with the zipper completely closed.

A zipper opening should always be a little longer than the length

of the zipper. To determine the length of the zipper opening, add

the following amounts to the zipper length:

For a skirt and pants with a waistband, add 7/a (2.2 cm).

For an edge nished with a facing, add 1 /a (2.8 cm).

For a side opening in a dress, add lfa (1 cm).

Mark the bottom of zipper opening on the project.

If the fabric is stretchy, loosely

woven, or cut on the bias, stabilize

the zipper opening by staystitching

14. (6 mm) from the raw edge.

For very stretchy knits or fabrics

cut on the bias, stabilize thezipper opening by fusing a strip of

interfacing that is stable in

the lengthwise direction to the

wrong side of the seam

allowances.

Finish the edges of the seam

allowances using an appropriate

seam nish.

If the seam allowances are less

than W (1.5 cm) in width, extend

them by stitching seam binding to

the seam allowances (4).

Reduce bulk in the zipper area, if

necessary. Trim interfacing in facing

areas 3/4. (2 cm) from the raw edge.

If a seam is crossed by the zipper,

trim the seam allowances in the zipper

area; clip the top seam allowance to

the stitching and press open (5).

When basting the zipper area

closed, stitch with the grain for most

applications. For example, for a

lapped or centered zipper application,

start stitching the seam at the

hem edge using a regular stitch

length. Backstitch at the bottom of

the zipper opening. Then, change

to a long stitch length and stitch to

the top edge. Clip the basting stitches

at the bottom of the zipper opening

and every 2 (5 cm) (6).

Shortening a Zipper

Zippers can safely and easily be shortened. If the edge will be

nished with a waistband or a collar, the zipper can be shortened

from the top or bottom. If the edge will be nished with a facing,

the zipper can only be shortened from the bottom.

To shorten a zipper from the top,rst install the zipper, placing

the bottom stop at the desired length. Open the zipper. Stitch

a bar tack by hand or machine over the teeth on one side of the

zipper in the seam allowance. Cut off the excess zipper even with

the raw edge (7).

To shorten a zipper from the bottom, close the zipper and measure

the desired length. [For an invisible zipper, add 1 (2.5 cm).] Whip-

stitch tightly across the coil or teeth 8 to 10 times with a double

thread (8). Cut the zipper 1h (1.3 cm) below the stitches. Install

the zipper.

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ippers

Zipper Feet

For most zipper applications, use the special zipper foot attachment

on your sewing machine (9). For an invisible zipper, use a special zip-

per foot designed for the particular brand zipper being used.

Topstitching

To insure straight topstitching, one

of the following stitching guide

lines can be used:

-Scotch Magic Tape in the 1 Vz or 3/4

(1.3 cm or 2 cm) width, depending

on the application.(1 0)

-A line of hand or machine basting

When installing a zipper, do all topstitching in the same direction,

either bottom to top or top to bottom, as specied in the instruc-

tions.

For a special couture look, topstitch the zipper by hand using the

pickstitch. Use a single strand of all-purpose or topstitching thread.

Make small half-backstitches approximately% (6 mm) apart (11).

Helpful Hints

When installing a zipper, keep the pull tab ipped up to make it

easier to stitch around the pull tab and slider.

To prevent the bump in the topstitching that occurs when stitch-

ing around the slider, stop topstitching just before the slider. Leave

the needle in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pull the slider

down to below the needle. (If necessary, remove the basting or tape

that is holding the seam closed at the top.) Lower the presser foot

and continue topstitching.

To avoid having to stitch around the slider at all, use a zipper thatis longer than desired. Install the zipper as usual. Be sure to open

the zipper, then follow the instructions for shortening a zipper from

the top.

Instead of basting the zipper in place, consider using a fabric

glue stick. Allow the glue to dry a few minutes before topstitching.

Use pointed tweezers to help remove basting threads from the

seamline after installing a zipper.

Zipper CareIf properly installed and cared for, a good quality zipper should

outlast a garment.

When pressing the zipper area, use a medium iron setting. Cover

the zipper with a press cloth to prevent a shine on the outside of

the project. Open the zipper when pressing over the top area to

prevent damage to the slider. Press curved seams over a pressing

ham. Do not press the zipper coil.

Keep the zipper closed during washing, drying, and dry cleaning

and while the garment is not being worn.

If the zipper teeth are stiff, lubricate them with a nonstaining

lubricant, household wax, or soap.

Keep the zipper teeth clean; do not allow a build up of dirt and

lint in the teeth.

If fabric or threads accidentally become caught in the teeth when

closing a zipper, gently pull the slider down and start again. Do not

try to force the slider up.

Centered Application

The two sides of the zipper

opening meet at the center of the

zipper.

Used at center seams.

NOTE:Two variations of the

centered zipper application are

given. One uses machine basting

and the other uses a glue stick to

position the zipper before stitching.

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ippers

Method 1

Machine Basting

1.Baste the seam closed in the zipper area. Clip basting; press

the seam allowances open.

2.Mark the bottom of the zipper opening on the seam allowanc-

es. Place the zipper foot on the sewing machine.

3.Turn the garment wrong

side up. With the bottom

of the garment away from

you, extend the right seam

allowance. Open the zipper.

Place the right zipper tapeface down on the seam

allowance with the bottom

stop at the marking and the

coil or teeth next

to the seamline; pin (12).

4. Starting at the bottom,

machine-baste the right zip-

per tape in place through the

zipper tape and the seam allowance only(12).

5.Close the zipper; keep the pull tab up. If desired, to help pre-

vent slippage, extend the left seam allowance, pin the left zipper

tape to it, and machine-baste in place.

6.Turn the garment right side up. Mark the bottom of the zipper

opening on the right side with a pin.

7.Spread garment at. For a topstitching guide, center

ScotchMagic Tape over the seamline.

8.Change to an average stitch length. To topstitch the zipper,

stitch across the bottom of the zipper, pivot, and continue along

the. guideline (15). At the top of the zipper, backstitch. Topstitch

the other side of the zipper in place, using the same technique(16).

9.Pull the thread ends to the wrong side and tie in a knot. Re-

move the basting along the seamline; press.

Method 2

Glue Stick Basting

1.Baste the seam closed in the zipper area. Clip basting; press the

seam allowances open.

2.Mark the bottom of the zipper opening on the seam allowances.

3.Turn the garment wrong side up; spread at. Close the zipper.Using a glue stick, apply glue to the face side of the zipper tape

(13). Lay the zipper face down on the seam allowances with the

bottom stop at the marking and the coil or teeth on the seamline

(14). (Keep the pull tab up.) Press down with your ngers to secure

it. Allow glue to dry for a few minutes.

4.Turn the garment right side

up. Mark the bottom of the

zipper opening on the right

side with a pin.

5.Spread the garment at. Fora topstitching guide, center

Scotch Magic Tape over the

seamline.

6.Change to an average stitch

length. To topstitch the zipper,

stitch across the bottom

of the zipper, pivot, and continue

along the guideline

(15). At the top of the zipper,

backstitch. Topstitch the

other side of the zipper in

place, using the same technique(16).

7.Pull the thread ends to the wrong side and tie in a knot. Remove

the basting along the seamline; press.

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ippers

Lapped Application

One side of the zipper openingforms a lap over the zipper,

covering it completely.

Used at side seams and center

seams.

NOTE: Two variations of the

lapped zipper application are

given. With one, the seam in the

zipper area is basted

closed before installing the

zipper and with the other, the

seam in the zipper area is open.

Method 1

Seam Based Closed

1.Baste the seam closed in the zipper area. Clip basting; press the

seam allowances open.

2.Mark the bottom of the zipper opening on the seam allowances.

Place the zipper foot on the sewing machine.

3.Turn the garment wrong side up. With the bottom of

the garment away from you,

extend the right seam allow-

ance. Close the zipper and

place it face down on the

seam allowance with

the bottom stop at the

marking and the coil or

teeth next to, not on, the

seamline (17); pin.

4.Starting at the bottom,

machine-baste the right zip-

per tape in place through thezipper tape and the seam

allowance only (17).

5.Change to an average stitch

length. Turn the zipper face up,

forming a fold in the seam

allowance but not in the tape.

Bring the fold close to the coil or

teeth but not close enough to

touch. Starting at the bottom of

the zipper, stitch along the fold

(18).

6.Turn the garment right side up. Mark the bottom of the

zipper opening on the right side with a pin.

7.Spread the garment at over the unstitched zipper tape. (Apleat is formed at both ends of the zipper opening.) For topstitch-

ing guide, place W (1.3 cm) wide Scotch Magic Tape over the

seamline with 3/8 (1 cm) on the unstitched or overlapside (19).

8. To topstitch the zipper, stitch

across the bottom of the zipper,

pivot, and continue along the

guideline (19). At the top of the

zipper, backstitch.

9.Pull the thread ends to the

wrong side and tie in a knot.Remove the basting along the

seamline; press.

Method 2

Seam Left Open

1.Stitch the seam below the zipper

opening, backstitch. Press the

seam allowances open. (Do not

baste the zipper opening closed.)

2.Place the garment wrong side

up on the ironing board. Press

seam allowances to the wrong

side of the zipper area: 1/2 (1.3

cm) on the left or underlap side

and % (1.5 cm) on the right or

overlap side (20).

3. Place the zipper foot on the

sewing machine.

4. Turn garment right side up. Slipthe closed zipper facing up

under the zipper opening. Place

the fold on the underlap side

next to, but not touching, the

coil or teeth, with the bottom

stop at the bottom of the opening.

Pin in place or use glue stick.

Starting at the bottom, stitch

along the fold; backstitch (21 ).

5. Lay the overlap side of the

opening on the zipper with the

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ippers

fold just covering the stitching.

Center (2 cm) wide Scotch

Magic Tape over the fold to hold

the opening closed and to providea topstitching guideline (22).

6.To topstitch the zipper, stitch

across the bottom of the zipper,

pivot, and continue along the

guideline (22). At the top of the

zipper, backstitch.

7.Remove the tape. Pull the

thread ends to the wrong side

and tie in a knot; press.

Fly Front Application

One side ofthe zipper opening

forms a wide lap over the

zipper, covering it completely.

Includes a facing which acts

as a y shield. In mens pants,

a separate y shield and y

shield extension are often

included.

These instructions are written

for a y front which laps

from right to left, usually

found in womens pants. For

mens pants, reverse the right

and left directions so that the

y laps from left to right.

Procedure

1.Before cutting out the pattern, check that the y frontfacing extends 1 (4 cm) beyond the center front or 13/4

(4.5 cm) for a Blue Jean Zipper (23). Adjust the pattern if

necessary. On the right front, hand-baste the curve for

a topstitching guideline 1 (3.2 cm) from the center

seam (23).

2.Starting 1 (4 cm) from the inseam, stitch the front

crotch seam to the zipper marking; backstitch. Machinebaste

the remainder of the seam closed (23). Clip basting

stitches; press seam open. Finish the raw edge of the left

facing with stitching or bias tape.

3.With the bottom of the zipper opening away from you,

extend the pants left facing. Place the closed zipper face

down on the facing with the edge of the tape along the

seam (24a); for a Blue Jean

Zipper place the edge of the

teeth along the seam (24b). Placethe bottom stop (6 mm) above

the marking for topstitching.

Starting at the bottom of the

zipper, machine-baste zipper

tape in place approximately

(6 mm) from the edge of the

tape, using a zipper foot.

4.Turn the zipper face up, folding

on the basting stitches; pin in

place to the left facing. Starting at

the bottom of the zipper,edgestitch along the fold of the tape (25). Remove pins.

5.Extend the pants right

facing. Place the zipper

face down over the

facing, and pin the

free zipper tape to the

facing only. Pin the

pants left facing back

on itself so that it will

not be caught in the

topstitching. Machinebaste

the zipper to the

pants right facing (26).

6.Spread the garment

at. On the outside,

pin the zipper to the

garment along the marking for topstitching. Starting at the

bottom of the marking, topstitch (27). Bring thread-ends to inside

and tie. Remove basting and pins; press.

7.On the outside of the garment, sew a bar tack at the bottom

of the zipper through all thicknesses.

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ippers

Flat Fell Application

This zipper application lookslike the continuation of a at

fell seam. lt is used to maintain

the design feature of the garment.

lt is usually used at a side seam.

Procedure

1.With wrong sides of fabric

together, stitch a 5/8 (1.5 cm)

seam from the hem to the bottom

of the zipper opening. Do not backstitch.

2. For a topstitching guideline, hand-baste along the seamline

of the garment front in the zipper area.

3.At the bottom of the zipper opening, clip the back seam

allowance (6 mm) beyond the seamline. Press the seam

allowance, which is now 7/8 (2.2 cm) to the wrong side (28).

4.Cut a piece of single fold bias tape the length of the zipper

opening; press tape open. Pin the tape to the front seam

allowance, right sides together. Stitch a (6 mm) seam.

Press the tape to the inside and edgestitch from the bottom

of the zipper opening to the top (29).

5. To position the zipper, place the fold of the back seam

allowance along the zipper coil. With a zipper foot, stitch

from bottom to top (30).

6.Lap the front side over the

zipper and stitch from bottom

to top following the topstitching

guideline (31).

7.To nish, from the at-fell

seam below the zipper. Stitch the

seam, overlapping the stitches

slightly at the zipper opening (32). Pull all thread ends to the

inside and tie securely.

Exposed Application


opening come to the edges

of the coil or teeth, leaving

it exposed. The zipper is

installed in a slash, not a seam.

Used where there is no

seam but a larger opening

is desired. Often used at the

center back neckline.

Recommended for knits only.

Procedure

1. Cut a piece of sheer weight non-woven interfacing 2

(5 cm) wide and 2 (5 cm) longer than the length of the

zipper coil or teeth.

2. On the interfacing, draw a rectangle down the center

(6 mm) wide and (1.8 cm) longer than the length of

the zipper coil. Draw a line down the center of the

rectangle, stopping (1.3 cm) from the bottom. To form

a triangle, draw diagonal lines to the corners (33).

3. Pin the interfacing to the right side of the garment,

matching center lines; baste center line (34).

4.Using 1 mm stitch length (20 stitches per inch), stitch

across the bottom of the rectangle and . (6 mm) up one

side. Then change to a 2 mm stitch length (12 stitches

per inch) and continue stitching to the neckline (35).

Repeat for the other side, overlapping stitches at the

bottom of the rectangle.

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ippers

5.Cut through the center line, stopping at the top of the

triangle. Clip into each corner, stopping 1/16 (2 mm) from

the stitching.

6.Turn the interfacing to the wrong

side of the garment; press. The interfacing

should not be visible on the

right side of the garment (36).

7.Pin the zipper in place (37).

8.Fold the bottom of the

garment up. Using a zipper

foot, stitch the fabric triangle

to the bottom of zipper (38).

9.On the right side of the garment

hold the zipper in place with

Scotch Magic Tape (39).

10.Extend the zipper and the

garment edge; stitch the

zipper to the fabric from the

bottom to the neckline a long

stitching line (40). Repeat

on the other side of the zipper.

11.Trim the interfacing close to the stitching.

Pocket Application


opening come to the edges

of the coil or teeth, leaving

it exposed.

Procedure

1.Cut the pocket from lining fabric as shown (41).

2.Mark the pocket opening

on the right side of the

garment and the wrong

side of the lining, following

the measurements in visual

41 . Zipper opening width

should be 1/4. (6 mm) for an

all-purpose zipper and 3/8

(1 cm-1 .3cm) for a Sport

Molded Zipper. Pin the garment to the lining, right sides together,

matching the markings.

3.Stitch around the opening. Slash through the center,

stopping (1.3 cm) from the ends. Clip into corners. Turn

the pocket lining to the inside and press.

4. Center the closed zipper in the opening. Using a zipper

foot, topstitch close to the edge around all sides (42).

5.Fold the pocket

lining up. Stitch the sides of the

pocket with a narrow seam (43).

6.Turn the garment right

side up. Fold the top section

down, exposing the

narrow seam allowance.

Using a zipper foot, stitchacross the top of the pocket

and seam allowance (44).

Separating Exposed Application

The two sides of the zipper opening

come to the edges of the teeth,

leaving them exposed.

Used to completely separate a

garment.

Procedure

1. Press the center front seam

allowances to the wrong side

along the fold line or seamline.

2. Place one side of the garment on

the zipper tape, with the bottom of the zipper where indicated on

the pattern and with the garment fold 1/8 (3mm) from the

zipper teeth (45). Pin in place or use glue stick. At the top

of the zipper tape, curve the end of the tape (46) or fold

it under (47).

3.

Us-

ing

a zip-

per

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ippers

foot, topstitch the garment to the zipper

tape close to the fold, starting at the top. Using an allpurpose

presser foot, stitch again 1f4. (6 mm) from the rst

line of stitching to help control the seam allowances (48).

4.On the unstitched zipper tape, use a dressmakers pencil

and mark all edges and seams that must match.

5.Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the other side of the garment,

matching seams and edges to the markings. Separate the

zipper before stitching.

Procedure for Handknits

Zippers in handknit garments are installed by hand.

A separating coil zipper zips easily without

snagging

yarns and is exible yet strong.

1.The length of the zipper from the top

stop to the bottom should be the

same or slightly shorter than the

opening. Shorten if necessary.

2.Pin zipper in position having the

edges of the sweater. next to but not

covering the coil. Fold top zipper tapes to

inside. Baste zipper in place.

3.Working on outside of sweater, backstitch

1 from zipper coil.

4.From inside, slipstitch the edges of zipper tape in place,

making sure stitches are not visible from the right side.

Separating Covered Application

The two sides of the zipper opening

meet at the center of the zipper,

covering it. The underside of thezipper is also covered by a facing,

providing added protection and

warmth. Used to completely separate a

garment opening.

Application also suitable for

reversible garments.

Procedure

1.Place both the garment fronts and the facings right sides

together. Baste along the

center front seamline of both

(49). Clip basting; press seam

allowances open. Set aside

the facings.

2. Turn the garment wrong side

up. With the top of the garment

away from you, extend the right

seam allowance. Open, but do

not separate, the zipper.

Place the right zipper

tape face down on the seam allowance with the bottom

of the zipper where indicated on the pattern and with the

teeth next to the seamline; pin (50).

3. Starting at the top, machine-baste the right zipper tape in

place through the zipper tape and seam allowance only (50).

4.Close the zipper. Extend the left seam allowance, pin the

left zipper tape to it, and machine-baste in place.

5.Turn the garment wrong side up. Place the facing on the

garment front with wrong sides together. Turn back the right

facing. Pin the seam allowance of the

right facing to the seam allowance of the

right garment with raw edges even (51).

Machine-baste seam allowances together.

6.Turn the garment right side up. Mark

a guideline for topstitching using

desired method. Starting at the top,

topstitch along both sides of the zipper, stitching through all layers (52).

Backstitch or bring thread ends to the

wrong side and tie. Remove the basting

along the seam line and press.

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ippers

Invincible Application

The zipper is hidden in the seam;

only the pull tab shows.

Can be applied to any area of the

garment.

Procedure

1.Place the invisible zipper foot on

the sewing machine. The Coats

Invisible Zipper Foot is specially

designed to accommodate the

small coil of the Coats Invisible

Zipper.

2.Open the zipper. Using a synthetic setting on the iron, press

the coils at from the wrong side so that the two rows of

stitching show.

3. Pin the right side of the zipper

face down to the right side of

the fabric, with the coil on the

seamline and the top stop of

the zipper (2 cm) below the

raw edge of the garment (53).

4. Line up the center marking of

the invisible foot with the

machine needle. With the right

groove of the foot over the

coil, stitch the zipper until the

foot hits the slider (53).

(Remove pins as you come to them.) Backstitch.

5.Pin the free zipper tape face down to the right side of the

remaining garment section. Be sure the zipper is not twisted

at the bottom. Place the coil on the seamline and the top

stop . (2 cm) below the raw edge (54).

6.Be sure the center marking of the foot is still lined up with

the machine needle. With the left groove of the foot over

the coil, stitch the zipper until the foot hits the slider (54).

Backstitch.

7. Close the zipper. Slide the zipper foot to the left so that the

needle is in the outer notch. Pin the garment sections right

sides together along the seam. Pull the end of zipper out of

the way and lower nee.dle by hand slightly above and to theleft of the last stitch. Lower foot and stitch seam for 2 (5 cm)

(55). Change to the regular presser foot and complete the

seam, overlapping the stitching.

8. With the zipper still closed, stitch the bottom of the zipper

tape to the seam allowance only.

Finishing

1.Install the zipper following the instructions for the lapped

or centered application.

2. Stitch the garment and facing shoulder seams.

3.Pin the facing to the garment edge, right sides together.

With the lapped application, turn the right end of the facing

back 5/8 (1.5 cm) and the left end of the facing back 1 (2.5 cm);

trim to (1.3 cm) (56a). With the centered application, turn

both ends of the facing back 5/8 (1.5 cm); trim to w (1.3 cm) (56b).

4. Stitch the facing to the garment. Grade and clip, except for

the unfaced seam allowance on the lapped application (57).

Understitch.

5.With the lapped application, press the facing and the unfaced

seam allowance to the inside. Turn the edge of the seam allowance

under 1/8 (3 mm). Slipstitch the seam allowance and facing in

place (58a). Wrth the centered application, press the facing to the

inside and slipstitch in place (58b).

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ippers

Lined Garments

1.Sew the lining sections together

leaving the seam open in the zipper

area. Fold the free edges ofthe lining

under and pin . (6 mm) from the

center of the zipper.

2.Slipstitch the lining to the tape.

3.To prevent the lining from catching

in the zipper, make a small running

stitch (6 mm) from fold (59).

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C PLC

Documents

Care and Repair_ Zips_tcm71-55916