Cara June 2016

ROBBIE KEANE ON EURO 2016& LIVING THE DREAM IN LA

KeaneWEMEETDUBLIN’S

BREWCREW

SHORETHINGDublin’s SeaSwimmingScenesters

COFFEECREDO

CZECHMATEPrague’s New

Bohemians

EAT PLAY LOVESmitten in

San Francisco

DAM FINEHipster Hunting

in Amsterdam

ROBBIE KEANE ON EURO

KeaneEdge

CARA

Magazine

June20

16Robbie

KeaneCoff

eeConnoisseurs

CoastalD

ublinSan

FranciscoPrague

Amsterdam

SantaMonica

SurfSpots

June 2016

COMPLIMENTARYCOPY

WELCOME TO IRELANDFROM AIB CORPORATE BANKING

Mick MurrayHead of AIB International

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Simon ScroopeHead of AIB Corporate Banking

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June 2016

CONTENTS

Check in08 ARRIVALS We greet new arrivals

at Dublin’s Terminal 2

11 CHECK IN What’s hip and hot this month

22 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK With Faye O’Rourke of indie band Little Green Cars

24 WEEKENDER Eoin Higgins gets comfy in the Cotswolds

26 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s pick of print and digital reads

28 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins delves in to Düsseldorf

30 PAGE TURNERS Daragh Reddin goes on the literary festival beat

32 THE MUNCH BUNCH Lucy White samples this month’s food festivals

34 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO HARTFORD Rich Visco’s lowdown on the Connecticut capital

Features36 KEANE INTERESTS

Ken Early meets Irish and LA soccer star Robbie Keane

42 HOT SHOTS Aoife McElwain chats to Dublin’s coffee connoisseurs

50 THE TIDE IS NIGH Brendan Mac Evilly dips into Dubliners’ favourite bathing spots

60 FOOD OF LOVE Nathalie Marquez Courtney feasts on San Francisco delights

78 CZECH BAITS Jamie Blake Knox peruses Prague

88 PRETTY COOL Caroline Foran explores amazing Amsterdam

4260

Coffee Connoisseurs

Golden Greats

Regulars70 YOU SAY, WE SAY Our pick

of your favourite festivals

98 5 SURF SPOTS Lauren Heskin catches the waves

106 48 HOURS IN SANTA MONICA Fionn Davenport hangs out at the end of Route 66

125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Inflight news and entertainment

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Screenwriter Glenn Montgomery at Sundance

Business109 BUSINESS & LIFE

Emma Sturgess on work and play in MediaCityUK

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Jockey turned trainer Joseph O’Brien

118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes on go-to gadgets, events and hotels

120 SLEEPS & EATS Lauren Heskin finds a Roman sweet spot

122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Paul Hackett, CEO of ClickandGo.com, shares insights

88Canal Life

50Dive in

Alaïa • Alexander McQueen • Bottega VenetaBrioni • Canali • Céline • Chloé • Christian Dior

Dolce & Gabbana • Ermenegildo ZegnaGivenchy • Gucci • Hermès • Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs • Michael KorsSaint Laurent Paris • Stella McCartneyTom Ford • Valentino • Victoria Beckham

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Armani • Aveda • Bobbi Brown • Charlotte TilburyCrème de la Mer • Dior • Jo Malone London

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Bláithín Ennis • Cloon Keen AtelierFoxford Woollen Mills • Heidi Higgins • J.W. Anderson

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... the very best Irish brands ...

ROBBIE KEANE ON EURO 2016& LIVING THE DREAM IN LA

KeaneWEMEETDUBLIN’S

BREWCREW

SHORETHINGDublin’s SeaSwimmingScenesters

COFFEECREDO

CZECH MATEPrague’s New

Bohemians

EAT PLAY LOVESmitten in

San Francisco

DAM FINEHipster Hunting

in Amsterdam

ROBBIE KEANE ON EURO

KeaneEdge

June 2016

COMPLIMENTARYCOPY

EDITORIALEditor Lucy White

Deputy Editor Eoin HigginsJunior Editor Lauren HeskinSub-editor Sheila Wayman

Contributors Fionn Davenport, Ken Early, Caroline Foran,Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Ingmar Kiang,Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Daragh Reddin,Emma Sturgess, Rich Visco, Sheila Wayman

ARTArt Director Clare Meredith

Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan

ADVERTISINGAdvertising Manager

Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622;[email protected]

Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan+353 (0)1 855 3855; [email protected]

ADMINISTRATIONEvents & Communications Manager

Deirdre Purcell, +353 (0)1 271 9615;[email protected]

Financial Controller Brett WalkerAccounts Manager Lisa DickensonCredit Controller Angela Bennett

Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards

Editorial Director Jessie CollinsEditor at Large Laura George

Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill

BOARD OF DIRECTORSChairman Patrick Dillon Malone

Directors Laura George, Robert Power,Gina Traynor, Raymond Reihill, Sam Power

PRINTING Boylan Print GroupORIGINATION Typeform

Caramagazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications,Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin,

Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9622;image.ie, email [email protected].

Company registration number 56663

© Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material andopinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the

views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGEPublications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising

content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissionswill not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights

are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without priorpermission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and

supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the PressOmbudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

IMAGE Publications LtdPUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014

Jamie Blake Knox is an award-winningtravel and history writer, who has also

published articles on a range of other

subjects. For his Cara debut he went

back to Prague, see page78 – a city he

lived in while studying as a doctoral

student. His interests include art

galleries, ecclesiastical kitsch, Barcelona

Football Club, James Joyce and craft

beer. He lives in Dublin with his partner

Caoimhe and their cute but increasingly

malevolent cat Koschka.

Aoife McElwain is a food writer andcoffee enthusiast – making her just the

woman for our People story on page 42.

She writes for The Irish Independent,

The Irish Times and Totally Dublin

magazine and is one half of forkful

(forkful.tv), a website that shares

seasonal recipes and videos.

She is also a creative events planner,

and hosts the Sing Along Social

(facebook.com/singalongsocial) and

slow:series (slowseries.com).

Brendan Mac Evilly is the author of AtSwim, part guidebook, travelogue and

analysis of our relationship with the

sea, which was republished this month

by the Collins Press – see his piece on

Dublin sea swimmers for Cara on page

50. His writing has appeared in The

Irish Times, The Sunday Times and The

Stinging Fly among others. He is now a

freelance arts organiser, writer and runs

CreativeCareers.ie, a cultural jobs website.

He lives and sea-lounges in Dublin.

ON THE COVERRobbie Keane photographed by AnthonyWoods, assisted by Sean Cahill, on locationat Castleknock Hotel & Country Club.

CONTRIBUTORS

Welcome to our

new issue!We are

all yours. Feel free to

take thismagazine away

for your onward journey.

Wewould also love your

feedback and travel

photos via Twitter

@CARAMagazine.

6 | | AERLINGUS.COM

TOUCHDOWNThe Aer Lingus College Football Classic(September 3) brings the excitement ofAmerican Football home, find out more

at collegefootballireland.com.

HAVE A NICE DAYAer Lingus have announced further

expansion in transatlantic capacity withthe reintroduction of an early morningDublin to New York service operating

from June 9 to August 31, 2016.

LA CONFIDENTIALGuests can now fly directly from

Dublin to LAX airport, with five flightsper week. These were launched as partof Aer Lingus's transatlantic expansion,which includes new routes to Newark,New Jersey and Hartford, Connecticut

from September 2016.

CARAMagazine June 2016

elcome onboardand thank you forchoosing to fly withAer Lingus today.June is a very

significant month for Aer Lingus.We have just celebrated our 80thbirthday and we will host the72nd IATA AGM and World AirTransport Summit in Dublin fromJune 1-3. IATA (the International AirTransport Association) is the tradeassociation for the world’s airlines,representing 260 airlines worldwide.Its mission is to represent, lead andserve the global airline industryby promoting safe, efficient andsustainable global connectivity. TheAGM is the world’s largest gatheringof airline leaders and so, for the first

three days of June, Dublin becomesthe “capital of global aviation”.

This is the second time in the historyof Aer Lingus that we have been thehost airline for this prestigious meeting.We first hosted the IATA AGM backin 1962, when aviation was a muchmore niche pursuit than it is today.That year we carried less than 800,000guests whereas this year we willcarry 12 million. The 1962 event wasaccommodated in Dublin’s GreshamHotel. This year, more than 1,000delegates will travel to Dublin’s RDSfor the AGM.

Aviation has come a long way inthe intervening 54 years. The sector inIreland is in rude health and contributesmore than €4 billion to the economyand supports 26,000 jobs. It is crucialto the continued growth of our tourismindustry, providing air access for morethan eight million overseas visitors.

Aer Lingus is proud to host thisglobal airline meeting in our capitalcity, and to showcase our growingDublin gateway. I’d like to extend awarm welcome to you and thank youagain for travelling Aer Lingus.

Stephen KavanaghChief Executive Officer, Aer Lingus

Follow us on Twitter@AerLingus

Aer Lingus CEO, Stephen Kavanagh, looks forward to Dublin hosting theIATA Annual General Meeting and World Air Transport Summit this month.

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WHO? Oscar Fredriks and ChristofferBaumgarten FLYING IN FROM ... ManchesterOSCAR SAYS … “We’re supposed to be herefor work but we mainly just want to trythe Guinness ...”

WHO? Gwen Tilley and Carol SchoberFLYING IN FROM ... MunichCAROL SAYS … “We just spent eight days inMunich and Salzburg and it was glorious. Theweather was so warm, we had a great time.”

WHO? Andrea Kresky and Simone KernFLYING IN FROM ...Munich ANDREASAYS … “We’re on our holidays in Ireland –make sure to say we’re sisters!”

WHO? Neasa, Joan, Dimitri and JasperCoen FLYING IN FROM ... London NEASASAYS … “We’re heading off to Kelly’s Hotelon Rosslare Strand to chill out beside thesea for a week.”

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hands and newbies.

WHO? Melanie RöhFLYING IN FROM ... HamburgMELANIE SAYS … “I’m heading to Galwayfor a language course and then hopefullyI’ll have a few days to see the rest ofthe country.”

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AIR MAXMadrid’s infamous bullfighting ring, Plaza de Torosde Las Ventas, plays host to this year’s Red BullX-Fighters event, where fans and participantsconverge to experience the best of competitiveFMX (freestyle motocross) on June 24. Expectsome truly epic head-to-head fights as the world’sFMX elite battle it out to win this year’s title.In 2013, Tom Pagès was crowned the Red BullX-Fighters World Tour champion with a heart-stopping performance in Madrid. A year later,the French innovator was able to pull off his firstsignature ‘Bikeflip’ scoring his second consecutivevictory in the world’s most exciting FMX event.In 2015 Pagès proved the impossible is possiblewith an historic Madrid hat-trick, wowing crowdswith his premier freestyle motocross antics.Will someone be able to stop the Frenchmanin his tracks in 2016? Tickets from €35 atredbullxfighters.com.

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Check in Find out what’s on, where and when in June 2016

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12 | | AERLINGUS.COM

La Bastide de Marie,Ménerbes Amongst

sloping rows of vineyard inthe heart of Provence lies LaBastide de Marie. The stone

farmhouse perfectly capturesFrench country elegance withmuted tones, rugged antiquefurnishings, local flavours and,of course, beautiful Frenchwine. Lounge by one of two

pools or cosy up by the grandfireplace. Rooms from €380.

labastidedemarie.com

The PIG near Bath,Somerset Tucked away ina quiet corner of the MendipHills, The PIG’s shabby chic

aesthetic of raw timbers, variedtextures and simple design

envelopes a space that is alsofilled with creature comforts.Enjoy a quiet meal in theirgreenhouse restaurant or

wander down to the pottingsheds for a luxurious massage.

Rooms from £155.thepighotel.com

Castle Hill Inn,Rhode Island One of thearchitectural gems of Newport,the Castle Hill Inn lies on thewestern-most point of the

peninsula. Built in 1875, the inn isconsidered one of the country’s

most picturesque escapes,renowned for the peace of

its craggy shores, Adirondackchairs looking out on panoramicsea views and foodie delights.

Rooms from $485.castlehillinn.com

Tinakilly CountryHouse Hotel, Wicklow

This Victorian Italianatemansion sits on nearly

six hectares of beautifullymanicured gardens on the edgeof the Irish Sea. With food and

wine menus that are almostas delightful as the house’sold-world charm, this place

emanates whimsical romancefrom the floorboards to therafters. Rooms from €120.

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Compiled by Lauren Heskin, Eoin Higgins, Ingmar Kiang, Sheila Wayman and Lucy White.

STAY

4 ROMANTIC RETREATSFall in love again in one of these love nests …

Beach LifePhotographer MassimoVitali has his vital,voyeuristic prints lashedup around London’sRonchini Gallery untilJune 18 in his first soloshow in the capital forfive years. The exhibitionfeatures a series ofsurreal Italian beachpanoramas taken in thelight of drastic politicalchange in Italy. Regardedas one of the mostinfluential contemporaryphotographers workingtoday, Vitali is well knownfor his unique, large-scale,coloured photographsof beachfront leisurescenes.ronchinigallery.com

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DOUBLE BUBBLEApparently, we should all forget whatever badnews is floating around these days and celebrate,in time-honoured tradition, with somethingblonde, long-stemmed and bubbly. Not in a RodStewart kind of way, of course, but by downing aglass of life-affirming bubbles. This month seesthe maiden voyage of London mixer-uppersBubbledogs (bubbledogs.co.uk) as their van takesto the highways to serve signature hotdogs andchampagne to outposts near and far. Wonderif they are thinking of visiting Dublin anytimesoon ... Simultaneously, new champagne and cafébar, The Fizzy Tarté (thefizzytarte.com) has openedits effervescent doors in Bowness-on-Windermerein the Lake District, specialising in champagne,cocktails, upmarket coffee and a French stylepatisserie; and following a frenetic first month, isexpecting a bumper summer. Cin cin!

Bigger and better

Already the world’s most-visited museumof contemporary art, the Tate Modernin London re-launches on June 17 aftera £260 million revamp. Though itsexisting premises were hardly pokey, the10-storey extension increases displayspace by 60 per cent, creating the UK’smost important new cultural buildingsince the construction of the BritishLibrary in 1998. Architects Herzog & deMeuron’s intriguing design makes this amust-see for fans of art and architecturealike. tate.org.uk

DRINKS

ART

SAY CHEESE

FOOD

Organised by food writerand pizza expert DanielYoung, The London PizzaFestival returns to BoroughMarket on June 5. Thiscelebration of all thingscheesy and doughy willfeature appearances fromthe UK’s best pizza chefs– pizzaioli, if you will –all of whom are featuredin Young’s new book,Where To Eat Pizza: TheExperts’ Guide to the BestPizza Places in the World.youngandfoodish.com

By their Edwardian attire yewill know them – the Joyceanenthusiasts wandering the

streets of Dublin on Bloomsday,June 16. In the writer’s nativecity, a whole festival (June 11-16)revolves around re-enacting thefictional Leopold Bloom’s day-longodyssey through the capital in 1904,as recounted in James Joyce’schallenging novel, Ulysses. You don’thave to have read it to join the party

but, spoiler alert, fried kidneysand liver are on the menu forbreakfast. bloomsdayfestival.ie

CULTURE

Bloomsday

TOP TAPAS The gods of small-but-perfectly-formed dishes

have decreed that the third Thursday of June shal

l be known

asWorld Tapas Day – this year, the day falls onJune 16.

Restaurants and bars worldwide will salute the hum

ble bar

snacks that grew up to becomeMichelin-quality delicacies.

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What can you tell us about yournew role? It has a revolutionaryangle and is the first all-Irishproduction at The Globe. Kate hasa controversial final speech about“a woman’s place”. I’m excited towork on it in the current climate,particularly with director CarolineByrne and in light of the Wakingthe Feminists movement withinIrish theatre.

Howwell do you know London?I trained at RADA and livedand worked in London when Igraduated so I know the city well,but in the past few years I’ve beenmainly working in Dublin, so I’mlooking forward to rediscoveringthe city. I’ll be living in buzzingBrixton where I have closefriends. The restaurants and theatmosphere are amazing andnearby Brockwell Park will be averdant spot for line-learning.

The life of an actor is peripateticand unpredictable. Is this ablessing or a curse? I’m learning touse my “resting” time to create myown work or develop new skills.Acting can be all consuming but

Dublin actress Kathy RoseO’Brien is used to living outof a suitcase, dividing her timebetween Ireland, the US and theUK. She’s about to throw rootsdown in London this summer,however, as she takes on a three-month stint at The Globe Theatreplaying Katherina – or here, Kate– in Shakespeare’s The Tamingof the Shrew (until August 6;shakespearesglobe.com). O’Brienis a TCD theatre graduate andhas performed at the Gate (LittleWomen, Hay Fever), the Abbey(The Plough and the Stars, Alicein Funderland) and twice workedwith novelist Joseph O’Connoron his play Handel’s Crossing(Fishamble) and in an adaptationof Ghost Light.

when you’re out on stage, live, witha company of actors, there’s simplynothing like it.

Is the Irish theatre/TV/film industry competitive orsupportive for young actors?Late last year I think a lot of actors,particularly women, felt bothrelieved and supported by theWaking the Feminists campaign.Something wasn’t right with theamount of roles on offer. Often weare all competing for one or tworoles, especially on screen. Thearts are a mirror, and if you don’t

see yourself represented thenself-doubt and insecurity can’t failto grow.

If you could tread the boardsanywhere in the world, wherewould it be? I’d love to performin a different language. I speakSpanish and listen to a lot ofFlamenco music – all that pain andpassion. So what about Medeain Spanish and in Madrid? Thatsounds wonderfully terrifying!

What do youmiss most abouthome? Sandymount beach. It’s

near to where I live and is a greatplace to clear your head anddream big.

Howwill you spend yourdowntime? I’m going to go tosome music festivals – Citadel inVictoria Park has a brilliant line-up.I love Maribou State and SusanneSundfør. I’ll go dancing on a night offif Kiasmos are performing in Brixton.And I’ve always wanted to see anoutdoor movie at Somerset House.But maybe since we perform semi-outdoors in The Globe I’ll be sick ofoutdoor entertainment ...

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DADDY DEARESTA johnny-come-lately to the calendarcompared to the more traditionalMother’s Day, at least Father’s Day onJune 19 is the same date both sidesof the Atlantic. If steak sandwicheswashed down with WicklowWolfbeer are to his taste, there’s theGentlemen’s Tea at Dublin’sMorrison Hotel, served noon-6pm(morrisonhotel.ie). His US-basedbrothers can enjoy a special BeerBrunch Cruise (hornblower.com). Spotthe common theme ... That said, alie-in the morning may be all Irish menwant this Father’s Day – the Republicof Ireland play Belgium in Euro 2016the evening before. But perhaps themore energetic will trot off to theKildare Thoroughbred Father’s DayRun, at the scenic Irish National Stud(thoroughbredrunkildare.com).

FATHER’S DAY

MUTTMINDERS

FEIS PLEASE

PETS

MUSIC

An innovative solution for dog-owning travellers, HouseMyDogoffers a choice of minders in Irelandand Britain to care for your pooch

while you’re away. The servicepromises individual attentionfor your pet, at rates lower than

traditional kennels. All mindersare vetted, with experience and

ratings viewable online.housemydog.com

Long before X-Factor,Ireland had its own

competition foremerging talent: heldannually since 1896,

Feis Ceoil attractsclassical musicians

and singers fromall over Ireland. Its

120th anniversary iscelebrated at the LittleMuseum of Dublin,with recitals and anexhibition runninguntil June 19. Chief

among the artefacts ondisplay is the bronze

medal, above, awardedto James Joyce in thetenor competition of1904. littlemuseum.ie

ART

Blow inDanny Lyon’sMessage to the Future opens on June 17, at NewYork’sWhitney Museum of Modern Art, with a retrospective

highlighting the photographer’s thought-provoking photographs,right, films and ephemera. Meanwhile, the contrast betweena “sculpture garden”, as a cultivated setting for artworks, and“garden sculpture” as an ornamental object, is explored in

Virginia Overton’s new project, opening June 10. Expect to seewindmills, ponds planted with aquatic flowers and greenery onthe museum’s terrace, while sculptures by the Nashville-born

artist transform an adjacent gallery.whitney.org

SPORT

SEA TO SUMMITA bunch of ultra-fit runnerstraverse Tenerife the hardway in one of Europe’stoughest mountain races,over 97 kilometres, onJune 11. For those a littleless sound of lung and limb,there are shorter optionsof 66km, marathon and20km, with a mere eight-kilometre challenge theday before. Let’s hope theviews from the volcanicslopes of Mount Teide provea distraction from the pain.tenerifebluetrail.com

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FOOD FLIGHTFOOD

Having sharpened his knife in London’sArbutus and Harwood Arms restaurants,Dubliner Barry FitzGerald recently madea stab at the bistro-deluxe genre – with amodern Irish twist – in his home town:Bastible (bastible.com) is the hottest mealticket in Dublin, right now. Here, the cheftakes us on his ultimate grazing day trip.

BreakfastTartine Bakery, San FranciscoSan Francisco – a city I knowwell, having spent an excitingsummer there during college– is renowned for its artisanbakeries. I remember my firsttaste of proper sourdoughbread very vividly. My dreambreakfast would be at Tartinesurrounded by the deliciousaromas of fresh baking. Theircroissants are out of this worldand I’m a sucker for cheese atbreakfast time (or any time, forthat matter) so I would orderthe croque monsieur. Justthat. And some strong coffee.tartinebakery.com

LunchLes Déserteurs, ParisRecommended to me by a chefliving in Paris last year, I tookmy fiancée there and we hada super lunch. It’s genuinely aproduct-driven menu by theexcellent chef Daniel Baratier –simple and delicious food. Thenthere are the incredible winesserved by passionate sommelierAlexandre Céret. The lunchmenu changes regularly and thebig flavours that are producedby the tiny, open kitchen arereally impressive. Desserts areexcellent too but if they havethe 24-month-aged Comtecheese, which is then sealedin a bag of wheat for anothermonth, order it. It’s the perfectending to a really great lunch.+33 1 480 695 85

DinnerL’Enclume, CartmelOften, really indulgentmeals are even better whenyou have to travel to them.Approaching Cartmel is anexperience in itself, withthe fantastic Lake Districtcountryside to take in. ChefSimon Rogan’s team’s approachto sourcing ingredients isexemplary. They rear theirown livestock and grow allthe restaurant’s vegetableson their farm. I’m not normallyone for a long tasting menu butthis one remains one ofmy most memorable mealsto date. The venison tartarewith charcoal oil has beenwidely copied, but neverbettered. His famous grilledsalad with truffle custard isa showstopper too.lenclume.co.uk

DrinksThe Dolphin pub, LondonI spent six great yearsworking in London but a chef’santi-social work hours forceus to think outside the boxfor a post-shift tipple. Wheneverywhere else inEast London is closing youcan pretty much guaranteeThe Dolphin is still serving.It’s lively on weekends,without being too self-consciously hip. The alesaren’t bad either and theyeven pour a good Guinness.dolphinhackney.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHBYEOINHIGGINS

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LONDON “I had one of the best mealsof my life at Simon Rogan’s The Frenchrestaurant at Manchester’s The Midlandhotel years ago and, unsurprisingly, thelunch I had in his Fera eatery at London’sClaridge’s exceeded expectations.Flavours were multifaceted, smoky andsurprising, each dish presented like awork of art by charming staff.”LucyWhite, Dublin

RHODE ISLAND “The population ofNarragansett more than doubles eachsummer with Bostonians flocking to itsserene waters, beaches and charming, laid-back restaurants. We stayed in a cove houseon Harbour Island, which had its own privatepier – what a view.” Nancy Rock, Mullingar

PARIS “Deciding that I wanted to shootthe Eiffel Tower at sunrise, I grabbed anearly morning Metro to Trocadéro. I founda quiet perch just above the fountains rightas the sun started to peek up from belowthe horizon.” Gavin Hartigan, Galway

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin toBoston twice daily, and from Shannon daily.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Corkto Paris daily.

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin,Cork, Shannon and Belfast to LondonHeathrow, and daily flights from Dublin andKnock to London Gatwick.


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You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) andAer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies andholiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, shareit and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

finderCASCAIS “I have visited Cascais, outsideLisbon a few times over the past few years,and I keep going back. The annual classicand vintage car show always brings anotherlayer of glamour to the town.”Eoin Higgins, Dublin

ST IVES “This shot was taken while onlocation for a shoot for Irish equestrianbrand, Horseware, on misty Carbis Baybeach with four beautiful Connemaraponies.” Alex Calder, Wicklow

LONDON “I spotted this quintessentialLondon pub on a trip there last year.I didn’t go in but a friend worked in theSherlock Holmes Museum, which soundedlike immense fun.” Jenna Meade, Carlow

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon daily.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquaysix times per week.

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork,Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, anddaily flights from Dublin and Knock toLondon Gatwick.

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MY FAVOURITE CITY FOR AWEEKEND BREAK ... Berlin. We hada show there and a great night outafterwards. I’ve always wanted to goback. In terms of musical history, someof my heroes recorded there, likeBowie, such an amazing city ...

MY FAVOURITE PLACE TO GIG ... Besideshome I’d have to say Chicago. We also had anamazing time playing at Lollapalooza there.I loved being in the middle of the city during afestival. It’s a big city but it feels comfortableto walk around in.

MY FAVOURITEOVERSEAS HOTEL ...The Beverly Laurel in LA.We’ve stayed there quite abit and I always look forwardto it. It’s in a great spot andit is really affordable. It’s anold-school LA hotel withrooms all around the pool.It’s also got a great dinerattached to it.

MOST SURPRISINGCITY ... Moscow. I’m notsure what I was expectingbut it was one of the besttrips I’ve ever had. I lovedthe contrast between thebuildings of the Sovietera and the beautifulImperial-style buildings.The people were sowarm as well. I met someamazing characters there.

MY FAVOURITE MUSIC FESTIVAL OUTSIDEIRELAND … Definitely Slottsfjell, it’s on the tip of aNorwegian fjord, in July, so the weather is perfect.Instead of camping, most people sail there anddock their boats in the harbour. When you wake upin the morning there are hundreds of people out onthe decks having barbecues and drinking beer.

FAYE O’ROURKE sings with Irish band LittleGreen Cars, who recently released their secondalbum Ephemera to critical acclaim. They have

just finished a 35-date US tour and arereturning to Ireland to play a headline show

in Dublin’s Iveagh Gardens on July 23. Fayeopens up her passport to LucyWhite.

MY TRAVELNOTEBOOK

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FAYE O’ROURKE Green Cars, who recently released their second album

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“Holiday heaven would haveto be staying somewherelike Telluride in Colorado.We played a showthere recently andit was just the mostpic turesque place.I’ve never skied bu tI’d like totry my handa t it.”


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GO SMART | COTSWOLDS


ith the themetune to AntiquesRoadshow playingon an internal, andseemingly eternal,

loop since “The Cotswolds” wasmentioned, neither myself nor mytravelling companion could wait toget to our destination and discoverwhat this part of England was reallyabout. And finally get that tenaciousditty out from between our ears.

Expecting copious cream teas,mucky Land Rovers, fusty oldethings and no small amount oftweeness – as well as tweed – therewas also a slight sheen of Hobbitonsurrounding our expectations. Thethought that we might find a familyof Sackville-Baggins’s running achandlery somewhere along theway was never far from mind. Wewere, after all, heading to a region soimpossibly bestowed with charm toseem almost fictional.

First stop, a 1,000-year-old inn inthe Middle Earthy-sounding villageof Stow-on-the-wold. Less thanan hour’s drive from BirminghamAirport,The Porch House (doublerooms from £99; porch-house.co.uk),as the inn is currently known, ishewn from the gorgeous, golden-hued Cotswold stone for whichthe area is famous – mined from a

The InnCrowdGreen rolling hills and friendly locals are the perfectbackdrop to two Cotswolds boltholes, finds Eoin Higgins.

W

Jurassic limestone bedrock that isalso the foundation for a rare type ofgrassland that is home to oodles ofinteresting flora and fauna.

The Porch House is not onlyfamous for its advancing yearsthough. It was crowned EnglishPub of the Year in 2015 by the AA,and New Pub of the Year 2016 byThe Good Pub Guide. It’s easy to seewhy: beautiful, individual roomswith ancient exposed beams andfreestanding baths; a restaurant thatserves up top-notch gastro pub grub,and a thirst-quenching selection ofcrafty brews and smartly chosenwines conspire to make this a veryrestful, sybaritic bolthole.

After a night at The Porch, anda superb supper – the CotswoldLamb Rump was a knockout –we head further south to a more

out of the way inn.The PloughInn (double rooms from £120;theploughinnkelmscott.com) isnestled in sleepy Kelmscott, a tinycountry village down a single laneby-way off the main Lechlade Road.It would be gross understatementto describe this pub with rooms assimply cosy – an open fire with asnoozing, fireside sighthound (nohobbits, sadly), more uber-comfortfood than you could shake atastefully distressed fork at (try themushrooms on toast, or the moreishdevilled kidneys), and a selectionof compact, yet warmly inviting,rooms make The Plough a veritablebuttered crumpet of an inn. Greatstaff, and locals, too and not anannoyingly jovial theme tunewithin earshot ... bliss!

WHAT TO PACK

Clockwise fromleft: the summery

beer gardenat The Plough;“golden-hued”,

The Porch House’s1,000-year-oldexterior; the

beautifully well-worn interiors at

The Porch House.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork toBirmingham daily, and from Shannon sixtimes per week.

Sun Buddies Type 02Edie sunglasses, €143at matchesfashion.com

Sandqvist Bob WaxedCanvas Backpack, €200 atIndigo & Cloth, Dublin 2

Inis Meáin Mussellinen-knit sweater, €185at Inis Meáin Knitting

Company, Aran Islands,Co Galway

Patience by DanielClowes, €23.80 atChapters Bookstore, Dublin 1

Editions de ParfumsFrédéric Malle, CologneIndelebile, from €120 atParfumarija, Dublin 2

Regatta GreatOutdoors

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shop online @ blarney.comBLARNEY | BUNRATTY | TIPPERARY

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WORDSONAWING If youmissed theMothStorySLAM inDublin’s SugarClub in April, here’sanother chanceto participate – orlisten – in Boston,New York, Chicago,LA and other UScities. The formatdevised by thislong-runningNYC-based groupis simple: preparea five-minute truestory to tell (not read)to an audience.June’s themes areFathers, Grudges, orBorders, dependingon the venue.$10 admission.themoth.org

SURFING1778-2015BY JIM HEIMANN(TASCHEN, HARDCOVER)

The first Europeans knew ofsurfing was when Captain Cookdropped anchor in Hawaii in1777, the ship surgeon leaving

this beautiful description of watching wave-riding:“I could not help concluding that this man felt themost supreme pleasure while he was driven on sofast and so smoothly by the sea”. This “supremepleasure” is now a global phenomenon, fromBundoran to Dakar, with 20 million practitioners.It “arrived” in Ireland in the 1970s, when twoCalifornian hippies undertook a global safari todiscover untouched surfing places. This lavishbook is wonderfully illustrated as you’d expect –900 photos, drawings and paintings – with someexcellent essays by surfing journalists.

iPAD

ELECTRICOMICS

Comic books maximisethe possibilities of digital:reading on your tablet isn’tlike reading on the page.Winner of last year’s DigitalComic App of the Year,Electricomics, set up by AlanMoore, offers four stories byestablished writers (includingMoore’s own Big Nemo)and hosts links to numerousothers – check out ongoingseries RedGhost andS James Abbott’s adaptationof Yeats’ poemWhen you areOld. Coming soon: a creatortool for users to create andself-publish digitally. Free todownload.

SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican catches some waves, as wellas the latest reads, downloads and podcasts.

FICTION VINEGAR GIRL by Anne Tyler(Hogarth Press, hardcover/ebook, June 16)The sage of Baltimore announced her retirementafter her last novel, but she’s been temptedback by the Hogarth Shakespeare project toretell The Taming of the Shrew. Tyler updatesthe story of acerbic Kate forced into marriageand capitulation. Check also Margaret Atwood’sretelling of The Tempest and Howard Jacobsonon The Merchant of Venice later this year.

PHOTOGRAPHY LOST IRELAND 1860-1960 by William Derham (Hyde Park Editions,hardcover) Drawing on a variety of archives,William Derham, curator and guide at DublinCastle, reminds us of the built heritage thatwe’ve lost: bridges, Dutch Billys, dry-stone huts,market houses. Particularly evocative are theTurkish Baths in Lincoln Place, which feature inUlysses, and the magnificent Powerscourt Houseburnt to the ground in 1974.

TRAVEL VOYAGER: TRAVELWRITINGS byRussell Banks (Ecco Press, hardcover/audio)Now in his seventies, the award-winning novelistand poet looks back on a lifetime of travel inthese ten essays: from interviewing Castro inCuba to eloping to Edinburgh with his fourthwife; from mountaineering in the Himalayas tosailing the “bright green islands and turquoiseseas” of the Caribbean. As much about thejourney within as the landscapes.

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GO SMART | DÜSSELDORF


Good Reasons

KOOL KUNSTSplattered with morethan 100 galleries – a lotfor a population of lessthan 700,000 – themetropolis holsters agun-slinging arsenalof artistic ammo,including the modernand contemporaryKunsthalleDüsseldorf. Thesharpest shooter,however, is theKunstsammlungNordrhein-Westfalencollection of 20th-and 21st-centuryart, exhibited in threevenues across the city:K20 Grabbeplatz, K21Ständehaus and theboxy Schmela Haus.

WONDER BARS Home of bleepingtechno pioneers Kraftwerk,Düsseldorf, not surprisingly, is a citythat pulses with an electric clubscene. Home too to an area knownas “the world’s longest bar” (imagine

lining shots up on that), theAltstadt (old town) iswhere you’ll also findthe strangely baconflavoured Altbier, thecity’s native brew.

WALK THISWAY As the name suggests,the Rheinuferpromenade provides a wigglywalkway along the regal Rhine, with plentyof sit-down spots to take a load off. Always

a relaxing promenade, but particularlywhen the sun shines and Düsseldorfers take

time out to chill. You might also discoverhow friendly the locals are in the chatty

queues for the many Herr Whippy vans and(sometimes pricey) cafés along the way.

Düsseldorf, like mostplaces these days, isproud of its very owngentrified “quarter”,

containing all thetrappings any

self-respecting,millennial might

want – nay, demand– from a city break.Flingern-Nord hasmore cutting-edgeart galleries, hip

haberdashers, tiny recordstores, boho brunches,

vegan butchers andvintage mobile phoneshops than you could

shake a self-consciouslyironic selfie-stick at.

STARCHITECTUREConfident, formidable,photogenic ... but enoughabout me ... the city’sgorgeous buildings, especiallyaround the Düsseldorf-Hafendistrict where the curvy paper vibesof Frank Gehry’s Neuer Zollhofcomplex nestle, are a picture-perfectbackdrop – whether you’re aninspiring Instagrammer or studiousSnapchatter.

... to delve in to Düsseldorf. Eoin Higginswets his whistle by the Rhine.5

SMART FLIERSAERLINGUS flies from DublintoDÜSSELDORF daily, andfromCork, twice weekly.

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coastal Dublin suburb (June 16-19;dalkeybookfestival.org). Meldingthe highbrow and the humorous,this year’s four-day event will bedominated by two intellectualheavyweights: beleaguered Greekfinance minister turned celebrityeconomist Yanis Varoufakis, andMalcolm Gladwell, author of TheTipping Point.

Finally, an offshoot of Wales’celebrated Hay Festival of Literatureand Arts, the bijou Hay FestivalKells, in the heritage Co Meathtown, enters its fourth year (June23-26; hayfestival.com). A trio ofcontemporary Irish novelists leadthe pack: Patrick McCabe, KevinBarry and Lisa McInerney.

iction, philosophyand football”are some of thealliterative subjectsup for discussion at

the 45th annual Listowel Writers’Week (June 1-5; writersweek.ie),one of the most convivial events inKerry’s cultural calendar. BestsellingBritish writers Joanne Harris andLouis de Bernières will grace thestage alongside Dutch author and2010 IMPAC winner GerbrandBakker, while the redoubtableAC Grayling will also hold court.And soccer nuts will be limberingup to meet broadcaster RichardSkinner who’ll discuss The BusbyBabes, his biography of the ill-fatedManchester United squad.

Elsewhere, the BorrisHouse Festival of Writingand Ideas (June 10-12;festivalofwritingandideas.com), amajor strand of the Carlow ArtsFestival, features some of the mostdistinguished names from theliterature world, UK performancepoet Kate Tempest and MartinAmis – the perennial badboyof British letters – chief amongthem. Homegrown talent includesestablished names such as JohnBanville and Joseph O’Neill joining

newcomers Sara Baumeand Danielle McLaughlin.Meanwhile, fans ofAmerican literature will bethrilled by the inclusionof Michael Chabon,Pulitzer Prize-winner forThe Amazing Adventures ofKavalier & Clay. There’s plenty toattract non-fiction fans, with talksand readings from Christina Lamb,who co-wrote Malala Yousafzai’smemoir, I Am Malala, andvenerated actor and Orson Wellesbiographer Simon Callow.

During the same weekend, thegrand Lutyens Library in HowthCastle, Co Dublin, is the venue forthe Howth Midsummer LiteraryArts Festival (howthliteraryfestival.com). Local authors there this yearinclude Rooney Prize-winningnovelist Claire Kilroy and IrishTimes columnist Hilary Fannin.Meanwhile, the enduring legacyof the great polemicist, JonathanSwift, will be teased out in a specialevent featuring contributions fromhistorian Brendan Twomey andeconomist David McWilliams.

“The best little festival in theworld,” is how Salman Rushdiedescribed the Zurich DalkeyBook Festival, in the agreeable

Page TurnersWith literary festivals taking place throughoutthe country this June, Ireland is a veritablebookworm’s paradise, finds Daragh Reddin.

“F

STATESIDE CEREBRALS

One of the American Midwest’s largest and most venerated culturalevents, Chicago’s Printers Row Lit Fest, is an annual celebration of thearts that’s equal parts book fair and literary powwow. The predominantlyoutdoor festival was founded in 1985 with the aim of increasing footfallin the Printers Row neighbourhood (once the city’s nerve centre forpublishing); with The Chicago Tribune helming the event in recent yearsit’s little wonder that the calibre of participants is invariably high. Bigwigson this year’s bill, June 11-12, include two-time Pulitzer Prize-winnerMarilynne Robinson, children’s book behemoth RL Stine and Hollywoodrenaissance man Ethan Hawke. printersrowlitfest.org

Clockwise fromtop, Salman

Rushdie and DavidMcWilliams at

the Zurich DalkeyBook Festival, aperformance at

Listowel Writers’Week, perusing

at the HayFestival Kells.

Where Champions Meet…Where Champions Meet…Recently renovated & refurbished,The K Club features 140 bedroomsand brand new conferencing &events facilities.

For more information call+353 (1) 601 7200or email [email protected]

www.kclub.ie

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SLIGOSó Sligo Food FestivalJune 16-19This shindig is bang onthe zeitgeist with itsfermentation workshop– kimchi being this year’sbone broth. Other DIYdelectables include wildfood tutorials, food anddrink tastings, cookingcompetitions, the WorldIrish Stew Championships,children’s activities, abarbecue closing partyand other appetite-satingshenanigans acrossSligo town and county. Asession on “mindful eating”sets the tone on theopening morning. sosligo.ie

MAYOWestport Food FestivalJune 24-26Six years young,Westport’s culinary love-in is chock-a-block withpleasing quirks, includinga bike tour for gallivantinggrazing, seaweed andmushroom foraging,and a craft beer relayrace ... Take care not toover-eat at the openingnight banquet (WestportHotel, €45 per head),where a four-course feastusing the best of Mayoingredients will be served;a weekend food villageat the Octagon awaits.westportfoodfestival.ie

DUBLINTaste of DublinJune 16-19Those greedy of gut willbe spoilt for choice at the11th Taste of Dublin festivalin the Iveagh Gardens.Learn tips and tricks fromthe likes of Danni Barry(Ireland’s only Michelin-starred female chef),Chapter One’s Ross Lewis,Lynda Booth of Blackrockcookery school, and NiallSabongi, sustainableseafood champion andKlaw head honcho.Expect also food stalls,interactive demos, craftbeers and wine bars.tasteofdublin.ie

NORTHERN IRELANDOpen Farm WeekendJune 18-19Get your wellies outfor this two-day eventcelebrating local foodproducers. More than21,000 visitors turnedout last year, meetingfarmers on their hometurf to learn, taste andbuy their daisy-freshwares as part of a drive toreconnect the public withfood at source. That 2016is designated NorthernIreland’s Year of Foodmeans that this month’sturnout is expected tobe exceptionally high.openfarmweekend.com

MEATHSolstice SupperJune 21Raise a tankard of mead– or more likely a Pagan’sPillar Sparkling CopperAle or cask whiskey – atBoyne Brewhouse’sMidsummer’s Night Brewevent in Drogheda. Thebrewery has teamed upwith Eastern Seaboardrestaurant for a candlelitsoirée inspired by theseason’s ancient traditions.Cue locally sourced,artisan produce, craftbeers and classic cocktailsas the sun sets on thelongest day of the year.Tickets at eventbrite.ie.

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TheMunchBunchElasticated waistbands ahoy!LucyWhite chomps through thismonth’s best Irish food festivals.

lower cholesterolProven to

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MORE ABOUT RICH

Rich Visco was born inDerry but left NorthernIreland as an infant. Inhonour of his Irish past,Rich runs a breweryand tasting room calledShebeen Brewing Coin Connecticut, USA.You can sample morethan nine different beersthere, including an IrishPale Ale, and tour theworking brewery.(1 Wolcott Road,Wolcott, +1 203 514 2336;shebeenbrewing.com)

Connecticut features more than 300museums, ranging from art to history.One standout is THE MARK TWAINHOUSE in downtown Hartford, whereTwain lived when he wrote his most

important works. Free parking and closedMondays. (351 Farmington Avenue,

+1 860 247 0998; marktwainhouse.org)

Think you know desserts and cupcakes?Wait till you try HARDCORE SWEETin Oakville. They have several hundreddifferent kinds of cupcakes, from hot

chocolate to red velvet to beer infused. It’sa must for the adventurous dessert lover.(Oakville and Manchester, +1 860 417 6660;

hardcoresweetcupcakes.com)

Derry-born Rich Visco shows us thesights of the Connecticut capital.

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

SMART FLIERSAER LINGUS recentlyannounced a new servicebetween Dublin andHARTFORD startingSeptember 28, 2016.

DON’TMISS

HARTFORD

A quintessential summer’s day in Connecticut isspent watching boats at ABBOTT’S LOBSTER INTHEROUGH while you enjoy local and fresh seafood.(117 Pearl Street, Noank, +1 860 536 7719;abbottslobster.com)

A great history of Connecticut’s naval legacy canbe found at the SUBMARINE FORCEMUSEUM,including a tour of the first nuclear submarine USSNautilus. Free admission, closed Tuesdays. (CrystalLake Road, Groton, +1 800 343 0079; ussnautilus.org)

BEAR’S SMOKEHOUSE in downtown Hartford andWindsor features local craft beers and wood-smoked, authentic, Kansas City style barbecue. Fromribs to brisket, there isn’t anything on the menu notworth trying. (+1 860 724 3100; bearsbbq.com)

The state is home to more than 40public and private colleges anduniversities. Founded in 1881, theUNIVERSITY OF CONNECTICUTis one of the most beautiful campusesin the state and certainly worth a visit.Selling fresh ice cream made fromcampus cows’ milk, the UConn DairyBar is recommended too, especially inthe summer. (uconn.edu)

The Greater Hartford Area boasts more than40 locally-operated breweries and brewpubs.There’s even an app to help you find and trackyour journey on the CT BEER TRAIL . From

creative beers, such as Shebeen’s Cannoli Beer,to various American IPAs, the area showcases

some amazing breweries. (ctbeertrail.net)

W W W . N E W B R I D G E S I L V E R W A R E . C O M

# N S B l u e B o x

WITH NAOMI CAMPBELL


KeaneINTERESTS

Football has taken Robbie Keane on an extraordinary lifejourney, from Tallaght to California. With Euro 2016 still to playout, we find out how he came to be the all-time record Irish

scorer and hear about his family life in Los Angeles.

Robbie Keane’s first time on a plane was to flyfrom Dublin to London for a trial at West HamUnited. He was 14. Twenty-one years later, aftera career that’s taken him from the Dublin suburbof Tallaght to LA, via London, Liverpool and

Milan, well: “I’ve done a lot of air miles since I started playingfootball, put it that way.” No wonder he is one of Aer Lingus’brand ambassadors.

Keane has been making the transatlantic trip from LosAngeles to Dublin every couple of months since he signedfor LA Galaxy and moved to the West Coast with his wifeClaudine and their older son Robert in 2011 (sibling Hudsonis just eight months old). With 67 goals for Ireland, Keane isthe world’s highest international goal scorer among currentlyactive players. Barring injury, he will captain the Ireland squadat Euro 2016 in France (June 10 to July 10), which will be histhird international tournament.

He knows, though, that at age 35, the achievements of19 years in the Irish jersey no longer guarantee him a startingplace in the team. How will he handle it if the tournamentkicks off and he finds himself on the bench?

“Just like I’ve handled it over the last few games,” he says.“The team is bigger than any individual. I’m at a certain pointin my career now, where this is what ... kind of happens.And I’m okay with that. If you’d asked me five years ago,I probably would have said no. But as you get older, you are

WORDS KEN EARLY PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONYWOODS

INTERVIEW


more understanding. But I’m notgoing there just to be a cheerleader.I’m there to help as much as I can.First and foremost, I’m there toplay. Either to start or, if I’m on thebench, to come on and score andhelp Ireland progress.”

Part of his job as captain will beto help the less-experienced playersadjust to the demands of a biginternational tournament. “You tryto keep the intensity off them, keeprelaxed around the hotel, stuff likethat. It’s natural for younger playersto feel that nervous energy.”

Well, most of them do. Keanewas only 21 when he played at hisfirst tournament, the 2002 WorldCup in Japan and Korea, whichwould make him younger thanany of the players who are likelyto represent Ireland at Euro 2016.And he didn’t seem nervous at all.

“The thing is, when you sayyoung players ... me and Duffer[Damien Duff, Keane’s friend andformer international team-mate] –we were proper young players whenwe came in. Seventeen, 18 yearsold. And that’s when you have no

fear. When you get a bit older, intoyour mid-20s, it changes. Most ofour players are 25, 26, but withno real experience of playing ininternational tournaments. Mostof them have played a lot in the[English] Premier League and I’mhoping that will help them, playingin big games.

“There’s nothing like playingin tournaments for your country.Naturally we’ll have a few nerves –like Sweden will, like Belgium will,like Italy will. It’s about how youtake that on as a player. And that’sup to individuals.”

Duff recently suggested thatone of Keane’s roles would be tonegotiate with the manager, MartinO’Neill, and his assistant, RoyKeane, for a bit of downtime forthe squad. “Martin and Roy aren’tstupid,” he said. “I’m sure Robbiesaid ‘give us a couple of nights out’.The Irish players like to drink and,if you give us a couple of beers, thenwe’ll live off that for a week.”

“Did he say that?” Keane asks.“Ha ha. Well, the subject hasn’tcome up yet. I do think we’ve

KEANE ON LAPLACES TO EAT “LA is really arestaurant scene, if you like. Whetherit’s Monday or Saturday, everyone goesout to eat, places will be busy. WhenI like a place I’ll stick to it for a while.One we’ve been going to recently isIl Pastaio, a little Italian in Beverly Hills(400 North Canon Drive, +1 310 2055444). There’s Boa, which is a famoussteakhouse in West Hollywood (9200Sunset Boulevard, +1 310 278 2050).And another great place is Nobu,above, overlooking the water in Malibu(22706 Pacific Coast Highway, +1 310 3179140). That’s a must.”

THINGS TO DO “It depends whoyou’re with. If you’re with kids, goto Universal Studios, definitely(universalstudioshollywood.com), andDisneyland (disneyland.disney.go.com)is only half an hour away. There’s a lotto do for kids in LA. For adults,MalibuBeach is good andManhattan Beach isgreat for shopping.”

STAPLES CENTER FOR LALAKERS (NBA) & LA KINGS (NHL)“For basketball, I enjoy sitting courtsideat the Staples Center (staplescenter.com), top, watching the movements ofthe players, listening to them talking.With the ice hockey, I go a lot with myson. That’s a very entertaining gameto watch live. The speed of the game,when you’re right down on the ice,they’re whacking each other, banginginto the glass ... we quite enjoy that.”

SMART FLIERSAER LINGUS flies direct fromDublin to LOSANGELES fourtimes per week.

Above, mellowmoments – part

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at Euro 2016is to help the

less-experiencedplayers adjust tothe demands of abig international

tournament.“You try to keep

the intensityoff them.”

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INTERVIEW

got, as a nation, for some reason,a reputation – it’s not fair on theplayers we have now because thegame has completely changed. Sowhen people say, ‘oh, the Irish teamlike a drink’ – it’s really comingfrom the Jack Charlton [a previousmanager] days.

“You hear, say, [Tony] Cascarinotalking about it all the time. It putsthings in people’s heads. I mentionCascarino because I saw him onTV, talking about it. Every teamthat I’ve played for, the managerwill give them a night out. Everyteam. Ireland just got cast as thedrinkers. And it’s not fair on theplayers because that’s not the reality.Of course every player would liketo relax and, if they have a beer waybefore the games, it’s no harm. It’sabout doing it at the right time.”

Ireland’s bad results in Euro2012 and the 2014 World Cupqualifiers had led to concerns thatthe Irish game was beginning to

struggle. Few young Irish playerswere showing the kind of naturalskills that Keane already had whenhe made his international debutaged 17. As a father of two, Keanehas seen how kids today dividetheir time between countless after-school activities, making it harderfor them to find the time to practisetheir skills.

“I think the reason is – andwe’re all guilty of it when we havekids – it’s all the stuff kids can doindoors. It’s definitely got to dowith computer games but it’s notjust that. It’s like, kids have got toomuch to do now. They have a lotgoing on. They pick what they’ll do– oh I’ll do this today, I’ll do thattoday – for us it was just football,football, football.

“We had an Atari when I was akid. But you’d get it at Christmasand you’d play it for a few days,then you’d be bored. You’d be backout on the road. I just remembereverybody was always out on theroad playing. Always. Whetherit was raining or not, we wouldalways be outside. As soon asI finished school – bag in, straightout. On the road, playing football.”

What about homework? “Ha.Sometimes. Your Ma would callyou in for dinner then you’d bestraight back out again, until shecalls you in late in the evening.

“You can take the kids outevery day, you’re not worriedif it’s going to be raining orsnowing. That’s somethingI really like about LA”

You don’t see that as much now.When it’s a nice day out like today,you’re driving past fields and they’reempty. I would have loved a fieldlike that when I was younger!Mostly for me it was on the road.Playing on the road.”

Didn’t it get a bit too easyplaying against the kids from hisstreet? “Didn’t matter, I just loveddoing it. I was better than all ofthem, yeah, but I just could not putthe football down. I used to playwith my brother, he was four yearsolder than me. So physically hewas a lot stronger than me. I’d playagainst him and his mates, so I wasplaying at their level. That helpedme as a player. Made me stronger.It’s just something that we loveddoing. It has definitely changedwith the technology the kids have.

“That’s one of the thingsI like about LA. It’s an outdoorplace; you can take the kids outevery day, you’re not worried if it’sgoing to be raining or snowing orwhatever. That’s something I reallylike about it.”

And of the long-haul commuteevery few months: “I actually quiteenjoy it,” he says, “because you canjust switch off from everything.Turn the phone off, watch a movie... maybe it can be stressful if you’rewith the kids, carrying loads ofstuff, but if I’m on my own, I findit quite relaxing.” A couple of yearsago, the disgraced former FIFApresident, Sepp Blatter, a man whohas spent even more time in the airthan Keane, gave his personal traveltips to the magazine Global Player.“How can you sleep during trips?That is a personal thing,” Blattersaid. “For me, the humming noiseof the engines at take-off is the bestpossible sleeping pill.”

Keane also finds it easy to sleep:“A couple of glasses of red winewill get you off no problem. That’swhat I usually do ... no more thanthat.” Blatter’s other cardinalrule for flights: “I don’t work. Nodocuments, no interviews. And I’mvery determined about it.”

“‘I don’t work’?” Keane responds.“Was he talking about on the jobthere or ...?”

Above,Keane givingit a go at the

UEFA EuropeanChampionship

2016 QualifyingRound at Dublin’s

Aviva Stadiumlast September,

in which theRepublic of

Ireland defeatedGeorgia.

©IN

PHO/R

YANBYRNE

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The GUINNESS® word and HARP device are trademarksand are used under license. Please remember to drinkGUINNESS® responsibly. © Guinness & Co 2016

PEOPLE | COFFEE


The GovernorsWHO Niall Wynn and Dave ReganWHAT Proprietors at Proper Order Coffee

The story of Proper Order Coffee is filledwith the influential characters of Dublin’scoffee community. Dave Regan, far right,started out as a chef but when Colin Harmonof 3fe served him a coffee that had a flavourdescriptor of Toffee Apple, it changed thecourse of his career. It was Harmon whohelped Regan train for the Irish Brewers’Cup in 2012, which he won. Regan wenton to work at Vice Coffee Inc. and in LoveSupreme, after a stint in Prufrock Coffee inLondon. Niall Wynn, right, was working asa barista at Coffeeangel under Karl Purdywhen he met Regan, and they discovered ashared interest in competitive coffee.

“It sounds strange but training for thesecompetitions can get quite stressful,” saysWynn. “We did quite a bit of training forthe championships together. We ended uprepresenting Ireland in the World Latte ArtChampionships in 2015. Throughout trainingand competing, whenever we had an idea ordid something well we’d say ‘proper order’.”

When they opened Proper Order Coffeeshop in January of this year, they wantedto represent what was best in seasonality.Instead of locking themselves into using oneroaster, they rotate between companiessuch as Square Mile, Koppi and Drop.

They’re excited about the World BaristaChampionships in June. “Anything thathelps Dublin up its coffee game to the nextlevel should be welcomed by everyone inthe industry. It will put the spotlight firmlyon Dublin’s coffee culture where baristasare constantly pushing and making a careerout of what has traditionally been seen as ashort-term job.”


SHOTSHot

pecialty coffee culture inDublin is made up of muchmore than just a well-brewedcup of coffee. It starts withroasters sourcing beans

directly from sustainable farmers. Thenthere are the baristas and the competitionsthey enter, and finally there are theindependent coffee shops championing localand specialty roasters. The hidden ingredientin their cups of coffee is community.

It’s a big year for this community inDublin. This month, World of Coffee(worldofcoffee-dublin.com) is taking placein the capital for the first time. More than10,000 coffee delegates from around theworld are expected to descend on thecity for three days of competitions andconversations, on June 23-25. NataliaPiotrowska, founder of Coffee ConsultancyEvents (coffeeconsultancyevent.com), willrepresent Ireland on the world stage at thisyear’s World Barista Championships, amajor draw at World of Coffee. Meanwhile,Gary Hollywood is the Irish Aeropress

champion representing Ireland.In the last decade, there has been a surge

in the value placed upon a well-crafted cupof coffee. So why has specialty coffee foundsuch a welcoming home in Ireland? “Whenyou give people something great, they tendto love it. Beneath that is a sneaky journey oftaste development that keeps you looking formore quality, more taste andmore variety,”says Dublin roaster Fergus Brown of RoastedBrown (roastedbrown.com).

Travel has had an impact too, says KenFlood of Love Supreme (lovesupreme.ie)coffee shop in Stoneybatter. “Irish people aremoving home from places like Australia andthe US and are bringing the specialty coffeeway of life back with them.”

“Ireland is in a really lucky position,”says Karl Purdy, founder of the Coffeeangel(coffeeangel.ie) chain of cafés. “We can lookeast, but we can also look west. We cantake what North America do well, and lookat the heritage and history and traditionof Europe, and make something distinctlyIrish out of it.”

S

The Irish are well known for their love of tea butit’s coffee that’s having a moment. To coincidewith this month’s World of Coffee expo, wemeet some of Dublin’s coffee connoisseurs.

WORDS AOIFE McELWAIN PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS

PEOPLE | COFFEE


The ArtisanWHOMonika PalovaWHAT Roaster and barista at 3fe

In an industrial warehouse in the depths of Dublin’s Docklands, tworoasters work side by side roasting one of Ireland’s best-knownspecialty beans. When I first seeMonika Palova, she has her earnext to the drum of a coffee roasting machine, listening for the firstcrack of the coffee bean.

“We get our beans from our roaster friends at Has Bean,”explains Palova. Steve Leighton, of UK-based Has Bean, is co-ownerof 3fe alongside Colin Harmon. The beans are sourced by Leightonfrom farmers around the world.

At 3fe (3fe.com), Palova and her roasting partner, Simon Ledzius,roast beans without software, relying on their senses. The greenbeans go into the roaster and, after about ten minutes, they start tochange, going from green, to yellow, to light brown. “Then the coffeestarts cracking, due to the release of steam and gases. From therethings move very fast and we have to pay a lot of attention to hit theexact moment when the coffee is ready to go out.”

What does it take to be a great roaster? “As a roaster, a driveto do things the right way and the same way every week is incrediblyimportant,” Harmon tells me. “The variables are always changing butpeople expect consistency. We rely so much onMonika and Simonto bring that accuracy to what we do. They are unwavering in theirfocus on delivering on that promise every week.”

TheMentorWHOGerO’DonohoeWHATCo-founder atFirst Draft Coffee

Ger O’Donohoe will be a familiarface to those who frequent TheFumbally Café, in Dublin 8. “Thecoffee scene in Ireland is run bypassion first and foremost,” hesays. “We are always learning andevolving.” Alongside his businesspartner, fellow barista and IrishBrewers’ Cup Champion, RashelWinn, he started First Draft Coffeein 2015 (firstdraftcoffee.com), afterseeing a need for an independent,barista training school.

Why has coffee become sopopular? “When the Irish started tocome back from abroad, particularlyfrom Australia and London in theearly 2000s, they missed thatalternative third place. In Ireland ithas been the pub, but we’ve seen thecafé take that place slowly. I don’t

think the pubs are in any danger,but I think the popularity certainlyshows a want for an alternative,” saysO’Donohoe.

The duo felt the care of thecoffee community first hand, throughthe support shown toWinn duringher recent battle with cancer.A fundraising drive earlier thisyear by members of the Irish andinternational coffee communitiesto helpWinn and her family wasthoroughly heart-warming, and atestament to the close-knit natureof this community. “The supportgenuinely pulled her through anawful and complicated period,” saysO’Donohoe. “We were speechless atthe show of support, encouragementand love.” Winn passed away on April15, 2016, aged 29, and her loss willbe keenly felt at this year’s BaristaChampionships, and among the Irishcoffee community for a long timeto come.

In Ireland

rsa.ie

PEOPLE | COFFEE


The ContenderWHOMonika WiniarekWHATManager at Coffeeangel

When I meet Monika Winiarek in thePembroke Street branch of Coffeeangel(coffeeangel.com), she shows me thesmall bag of beans sent to her by the IrishAeropress Championships. Between herreceiving the beans and competing inthe Irish heats, she has to come up with arecipe. “I try to find a recipe that reflectsthe most interesting characteristics of thecoffee, while also trying to create a cup thatis unique to my own taste and will hopefullystand out at the competition.”

Winiarek’s early interest in specialtycoffee blossomed when she startedworking with Karl Purdy, Irish BaristaChampion and owner of Coffeeangel, in

2010. Since opening in 2004, Coffeeangelhas seen many of Dublin’s best baristastamping and frothing behind its counters.“It was working with the Coffeeangelteam that inspired me to work hard athoning my skills as a barista and learningmore about every aspect of coffee culture,”explains Winiarek.

She entered her first Aeropresscompetition in Dublin in 2014 and wasplaced first, going on to represent Irelandin the World Aeropress Championship heldin Rimini, Italy that year. “The benefits ofplacing in a coffee competition not onlygive the barista a sense of achievement,”explains Winiarek. “It’s also a way oflearning more about origin and process ofproducing the quality coffees they love towork with.”


The DirectorsWHO Peter Sztal and Frank KavanaghWHAT Founders at Cloud Picker

Peter Sztal, left, and Frank Kavanagh, right,left their former careers in graphic designand banking to pursue their passion forspecialty coffee, and ultimately launchedCloud Picker in 2013 (cloudpickercoffee.ie), having run a successful café in ScienceGallery at Trinity College Dublin since 2010.

Their cosy warehouse on Sheriff Streetis packed full of bags of green beans, theirroasting machine, boxes waiting to be

packed with roasted coffee beans, and anadaptable demonstration space where theirteam train new customers, who includeOxmantown and Forest Avenue. CloudPicker roast their beans weekly to order andpack by hand, sourcing their coffee fromfarmers who hand pick the coffee cherriesfrom the tree rather than using machinery.“We’re called Cloud Picker because, onour first visit to a coffee farm, we had togo up through the clouds to see the coffeepickers,” explains Sztal. He shows mevideos of the coffee picking, washing and

fermenting phases that the couple saw ata farm they visited in Guatemala last year.“What excites me about coffee,” says Sztal,“is the fact that I don’t know everythingabout it. I enjoy the perpetual study.”

The duo see specialty coffee as slowlybecoming mainstream. “In order for it togrow, the industry needs to open up. Wecan’t be elitist. After all, it’s new to all of us,so there is no room for looking intothe cup when making a coffee. We needto look up and embrace the customer andtalk to them.”

An Extra ShotIt’s a testament to the energyof the specialty coffee scene inIreland that we had far too manypeople to talk to for this piece.Instead, we limited our scope tocapturing a snapshot of what’shappening in the capital. WithinDublin, there are a host of otheroutstanding contributors suchas coffee shops like Clement &Pekoe (clementandpekoe.com)and Kaph (kaph.ie), roasters likeTwoFifty Square (twofiftysquare.ie) and Full Circle Roasters(facebook.com/FCRlaunch),and innovative coffeetechnology designers like Marco(marcobeveragesystems.com).

The activity is no lessenthusiastic outside the capital,where you’ll find independentroasters like Ariosa in Meath(ariosacoffee.com), Badger &Dodo (badgeranddodo.ie) inCork, Bell Lane in Westmeath(belllane.ie) and Bailies inBelfast (bailiescoffee.com)helping baristas to better theirbrews. Coffee shops and caféssuch as Established in Belfast(established.coffee) Canteenin Limerick (wearecanteen.com), Coffeewerk + Press(coffeewerkandpress.com)in Galway and Filter in Corkare all raising the coffee barin their own neighbourhoodsaround the island.

The GraduateWHO Lesley NolanWHAT Barista at Vice Coffee Inc.

Lesley Nolan first caught the specialtycoffee bug while travelling in Australia.When she arrived back in Dublin in2013, she started working with TomStafford of Vice Coffee Inc. on MiddleAbbey Street (vicecoffeeinc.com). “Tomand the team taught me everythingI now know. It takes patience and timeto train someone with little experienceso I am very grateful.” Stafford, DaveRegan of Proper Order Coffee and

Bruno Ferreira Silva helped Nolan trainfor the 2014 World Brewers’ Cup inRimini, Italy, after she came first in theIrish heats. “Everyone has their ownreasons for competing,” says Nolan.“For me, it’s the overall experienceand learning.”

In the championships, baristas haveto choose a theme and a bean, andthen build a presentation and brewingmethod around it. It all takes time,dedication and practice. “There’s a realbuzz on the day of competitions. Youmeet all the other competitors, soakup the atmosphere and then get towork preparing all your equipment inthe space allocated to you. Cleaning,grinding and tasting while reciting yourpresentation in your head a milliontimes over, crossing your fingers thatyou don’t forget the most importantparts of your speech.”

Nolan is currently retraining inholistic health and wellbeing therapies.“That’s one of the things I love aboutbeing a part of the coffee community.Everyone has a range of differentpassions and you get to know somereally interesting people. But coffee willalways be a part of my life. It’s a love ofmine that I don’t want to leave behind.”

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DESTINATION | DUBLIN’S COASTLINE


THE TIDE IS NIGHWhen the sun shines, Dubliners come out to play

at coastal spots that are bathed in tradition.

WORDS BRENDAN MAC EVILLY PHOTOGRAPHS AISLING McCOY


Bay watch - all around the sweeping curve of Dublin Bay, Dubliners have their

favourite bathing spots.



the perfect split image of sea and sky, in which thepeaking waves appear as mountains.“After a couple of years, you start to realise this is a

cult. If I went without a swim for three or four days I’dstart to get withdrawal symptoms.” He still feels thebenefits of his regular swim though, “it clears the mindcompletely, slows down the breathing”. Gary joins amotley crew whose addiction to these cold waters isakin to religious ritual, but they are joined by hundredsif not thousands who flock to the sea on a hot day, toclear a hungover head or to cool off from the city heat.Whether yours is a 20-minute Trojan swim or

a 20-second screaming splash,you can walk back towards DunLaoghaire along the seasidepromenade with your head heldhigh. Go for a whipped ice creamat the famous Teddy’s (teddys.ie) orsample the foods of a contemporaryIrish market in the People’s Parkon a Sunday afternoon, wherecharcoal-barbecued burgers, hogroasts or falafels can be followedby fresh coffee and homemadebrownies (dlrcoco.ie/markets).Less than two kilometres south

of Sandycove is the historic Dalkeyvillage, home to some of Dublin’swealthier residents, and a greatstarting point for a stroll along

Fair old Dublin, city by the sea, catchesthe light like a shining jewel when thesun comes out. Dubliners, in shock at thesudden flood of light, doff as many items ofclothing as decency allows, slap on the suncream and head for the sea.

The Victorian fashion for “taking the waters” for healthand well-being never wore off on the Dubs. Its coastaltowns and villages, developed through the 19th century asseaside resorts, remained popular with holiday makers intothe 20th century, and day-trippers into the 21st.The DART – a two-tonne, snot-green snake

of a commuter train – rumblesalong an electric rail line aroundDublin’s coastline to any numberof bathing spots.The most popular is the Forty

Foot in Sandycove, ten kilometressouth of the city, where people fromall walks of life dive extravagantlyfrom the rocky ledges or wadeslowly in by the steps, enteringdeep water that has been swumin for centuries. Among its manyswimmers is esteemed artist andphotographer Gary Coyle, who hasbeen sinking into the Irish Sea on amore-or-less daily basis for the past16 years. Armed with a camera,Gary takes the plunge to capture

Above, takingthe plunge atthe Forty Footin Sandycove.Below, left to

right, Susan Yek,Han Ying Khokand Han Yuo

enjoy that post-swim feeling.

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Clockwise fromtop left, Aaron andElliot Garrett enjoyTeddy’s ice cream;Sarah-Jane Murphyat the Forty Foot;Shane Robertson ofthe White Tea café;no diving allowed atSeapoint; delish fishat The Magpie Inn.

EAT AT…DALKEY Breakfast orbrunch on The Magpie Inn’sfirst-class full Irish breakfast,with many of the ingredientslocally sourced. The menuchanges throughout the dayand gives a good showing ofcontemporary Irish cuisine,with dishes such as freshSligo mussels marinièreserved with toastedsourdough bread, or saltand chilli langoustines inginger beer batter. (115/116Coliemore Road, 01 2023909; magpieinn.ie)

DUBLIN4 There’s nothinglike fish and chips to followa dip in the sea. Hop off theDART at either LansdowneRoad or Grand Canal Dockand nip in to my favouritefish ‘n’ chip shop, Ezio’s.Their fish box offers a fullmeal for even the hungriestamong us at exceptionalvalue, only €5.80. (12 BathAvenue, 01 667 6618)

DUN LAOGHAIRE Nestledabove the Brian S Nolanfurnishings shop, WhiteTea purveys excellent andwholesome soups, saladsand tarts served, withzeitgeisty self-awareness,on mismatched chinacrockery. And before youcommend yourself forbeing virtuous, check outthe homemade sweets – donot leave without a slab ofcarrot cake or frangipanitart. (102 George’s StreetUpper, 087 361 5600)

HOWTH The harbour islined with great seafoodrestaurants but I alwaysfind myself arriving at thewrong time of day – tooearly for dinner, too late forlunch. Thankfully the HowthMarket is open from 9amto 6pm, seven days a weekand offers every kind offare in all the right portions.(Harbour Road, 01 839 4141)


STE

VE

MCC

AR

THY

Ireland’s answer to the Amalfi coast. On the VicoRoad, where the homes of Bono and Enya overlook thewaves, a small gap in the wall leads to a footbridge overthe DART line and down the hillside to Ireland’s lastbastion of the nude bather – Hawk Cliff. This is myfavourite spot to swim, not for the nudity mind, but thepanoramic vistas, or a chance encounter with a pod ofdolphins, porpoises, or a lone seal.

Travelling north out of the city, Dublin’s swimmersare equally blessed. The DART will take you to Howthvillage, where a vibrant fishing industry suppliesthe numerous seafood restaurants that face the busyharbour. On Burrow Beach – aka the “Hole in theWall Beach” for the narrow, sandy walkway betweentwo mansions that leads onto this idyllic shoreline –you’ll be a long time wading out to sea before the watergets deep. The combination of hot sand and shallowwater will make the sea that bit warmer as the tidecomes in.

But the peninsula’s best offering is the “Bog of FrogsWalk” (irishtrails.ie), a ten-kilometre trek througha hillside thick with golden, flowering gorse. Thisthree-hour hike brings you by the Baily Lighthouse,past the adrenaline junkies taking death-defying leapsfrom Puck’s Rock and the Lion’s Head, towards thesouthernmost tip of the peninsula, where a more sereneswimming experience awaits. The Jameson family, ofIrish whiskey fame, added a wall to the natural rock

DRINK AT…DONABATE There’s an unfortunatelack of beachside bars in Dublin but,at the Waterside House Hotel, aspacious bar patio leads directly ontoa quiet beach in the shadow of yetanother Martello tower. Enjoy your pintin view of Lambay Island, Howth Head,Ireland’s Eye and Malahide Harbour.(Donabate on the Beach, 01 843 6153;watersidehousehotel.ie)

HOWTH Its predecessor TheCock Tavern didn’t have a greatreputation so it is with open arms thatthe peninsula (natives and tourists)welcomes The Harbour Bar. Openfires and snugs are cosy for post-swimpints, while its microbrewery-in-progress has so far launched HowthLager, with rumours of a self-brewedgin debuting this summer. (18 ChurchStreet, 01 839 5876)

SKERRIES Joe May’s is the firstplace that any proud Skerries personwill want to drag you to for a pint, tooverlook the sea, listen to the lappingwaves and hear the unmistakableclinking of sailboat masts. This isbecause Skerries boasts the easternshoreline’s only west-facing beach –and is therefore the only beach onwhich you’ll catch a sunset.(23 Harbour Road, 01 849 1241)

Below, the shelteredwater of Dun LaoghaireHarbour is an ideal spotfor learning to sail.


3 DELIGHTFULDIVERSIONSDUBLIN The last stronghold of theidler and flâneur, the city’s art gallerieswelcome you through their doors freeof charge. The best among them isThe Hugh Lane – big enough to findsomething you like, small enough thatyou won’t spend time rushing from onepiece to another without taking thetime to appreciate what’s in front ofyou. (Charlemont House, Parnell SquareNorth, 01 222 5550; hughlane.ie)

HOWTH Another Martello museum–YeOldeHurdyGurdyMuseum ofVintage Radio – tells a different storyentirely and throws the visitor backto the glory days of radio, when thistower was a wireless station, receivingthe first transmissions betweenHowth and Holyhead. Its idiosyncraticname gives a flavour of the higgledy-piggledy collection of high-end tatand genuine antiques that awaitsvisitors. Collections include stamps,telegrams and, mysteriously, “valves”.(6 Balscadden Road, 086 815 4189;hurdygurdyradiomuseum.wordpress.com)

SANDYCOVE Before James Joyceset sail for the Continent, he spent afew nights in the Martello tower thatovershadows the Forty Footy bathingplace, where the opening of Ulysses isset. Today, the James Joyce Tower is amuseum, run by a group of enthusiasticvolunteers, with a broad array of Joycememorabilia on display. Worth a visitfor the rooftop views alone.(Sandycove Point, 01 280 9265;jamesjoycetower.com)

Clockwise fromtop left, stepback in time atVico Road; JohnDuris at Seapoint;Han Luo leapsin at the FortyFoot and JamesJoyce’s deathmask on display inthe James JoyceTower.

Now at Dublin Airportconnecting passengers canget a personal assistantIt’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service thatacts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight toyour connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:

DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English,Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano.

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over a century ago. It still holds the water from theincoming tide, creating a tidal pool for the perfect mid-trek dip.

For a true taste of country life, a commuter trainwill take you further north to Skerries, a picturesqueand tight-knit fishing town on the northern edge ofCo Dublin. Here I met novelist Kevin Curran whoswims daily during the warmer months of the year. Hecomes to the sea for “a sense of openness and unlimitedhorizon. The ocean gives you space to think, to fill withyour own thoughts.”

It was Kevin who introduced me to the Frosties,a group of locals who swim come rain, hail or shine.And despite the group’s name, they don’t mind thecold. Even in winter months, they prepare for the“Frosties Freezer” – a short and bracing sea race held onDecember 21. And on Christmas Day there are no lessthan four swims organised along the Skerries coastline.The eccentricity required for this kind of pursuit givesa little taste of the madness to follow when you re-enterthe city for an evening’s revels ...

SLEEP AT…DUBLIN If you’ve missed Bono in Killiney and LarryMullen Jr at his home in Howth, perhaps you might spotthem at their very own riverside Clarence Hotel. This Dublinlandmark, at the trendier end of Temple Bar, is a perfectvantage point for September’s River Liffey Swim, in whichhardy citizens have been racing beneath its bridges since1920. (6-8 Wellington Quay, 01 407 0800; theclarence.ie)

DUN LAOGHAIRE If the sea water is too cold, the on-sitepool and spa at the Royal Marine Hotel might be more toyour liking. A four-star hotel since 1828, Queen Victoria issaid to have wolfed down a 16-course breakfast in the RoyalMarine shortly after setting foot in Ireland. No swimmingfor at least an hour, Vic! Doubles from €179. (Marine Road,01 230 0030; royalmarine.ie). Also with terrific sea views isThe Haddington – formerly a clutch of four Georgian housesbefore being converted to a hotel in the 1950s. There’snothing old and fusty though about this boutique hotel, itsinteriors understatedly contemporary. Gorge on authenticpizzas in its Olivetto restaurant, or raise a chilled aperitif onthe outdoor terrace overlooking the pier. Doubles from €65.(9-12 Haddington Terrace, 01 280 1810; thehaddington.ie)

SUTTON In the early 1800s, the British built a series of“bombproof” forts – Martello towers – along Ireland’s coastto defend against Napoleonic invasion. Situated on HowthHead, the circularMartello Tower Sutton offers luxury self-catering, with 360-degree views from the rooftop kitchen-cum-dining room. A seven-night stay costs €1,600.(Red Rock, 086 164 2671; martellotowersutton.com)

Clockwisefrom top, LindaMcCormackbehind the barat Joe May’s inSkerries; drinkson the terrace atThe Haddingtonin Dun Laoghaire;room with a viewat Martello TowerSutton; the hardyFrosties swimyear round atSkerries and oneof their regulars,Theresa Murphy.

t’s been quite a journey from Ireland’s oldestweaving mill to being voted one of the 100 mostinspirational stores in the world… Here’s what thejudges of the respected Trade magazine Retail Weekhad to say:“….What began as a small Irish woollens shop at theoriginal Mill has evolved into a mixture of Heal’sfor homewares, Selfridges Food Hall, Betty’s tearooms, Ghost for womenswear and Daisy & Tomfor kid’s clothes and toys. Avoca sells their ownbrand products as well as carefully chosen piecesfrom a wide range of upmarket brands withoutlooking piecemeal. Each of the 11 stores throughoutIreland have the feeling that each item has beenlovingly bought by a single buyer and manages tomake something traditional feel contemporary. Themerchandise is laid out as though you are lookingaround the house of a friend with very good taste”.Ok…. it did take 290 years to achieve…Today the Avoca shops, cafés and Food markets arewell known throughout the world as being the best inIreland. Please come and see for yourself. The visitorcentre in Avoca Village, Co. Wicklow offers a chanceto see the weavers at work and a glimpse into thebeautifully coloured and historical world of Avoca.

I

Best 100 ShopsOutsideLondon

AvocaMill&TourCafé,Store,WeavingMill&VisitorCentreAvocaVillageCo.Wicklow

AvocaSuffolkStreetCafé,FoodMarket&StoreSuffolkStreetDublinCityCentre

AvocaKilmacanogueHQ,Cafés,FoodMarket,GardenCentre&StoreKilmacanogueBray,Co.Wicklow

AvocaMalahideCastleCafé,Foodmarket&StoreMalahideCo.Dublin

AvocaMoll’sGapCafé&StoreKenmareRingofKerryCo.Kerry

MountUsherGardensCafé,Foodmarket&StoreAshfordCo.Wicklow

AvocaPowerscourtCafé,FoodMarket&StorePowerscourtHouseEnniskerryCo.Wicklow

AvocaLetterfrackStoreConnemaraCo.Galway

AvocaRathcooleCafé,FoodMarket&StoreRathcooleN7NaasRoadCo.Dublin

AvocaMonkstownFoodMarket&SaltCaféMonkstownCrescentCo.Dublin

DESTINATION | SAN FRANCISCO


Gold stars – San Francisco’sfood scene, including at Liholiho,opposite, is as famous as itsGolden Gate Bridge, above.

FOODOFLoveThis writer was lured to San Francisco for its vibrantfood scene. But what happens if you leave your heart

in San Francisco – and bring back a new fiancé?

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY



Clockwise from above, one of the dishes inCalifornios 16-course tasting menu; Tulipnafloral bouquet; Californios chef-owner ValCantu, and a beatificmacaron selection.

ike Tony Bennettcroons in his classic1960s ballad, I Left MyHeart in San Francisco,I too fell hard whenI first visited TheGolden City five yearsago with my then-

recent boyfriend – smitten with itscute cable cars bobbing through thefog, pastel houses and beautiful Bayviews. But the thing I loved mostwas the food: the tamale trucks,the smoothest coffee, the fresh snapof just-in-season asparagus. Likeparting lovers, I promised to return.

Of course I’m not the only onehaving a love affair with the city’sfood: San Franciscans are obsessed.Named by US food bible BonAppetit magazine as “The Best FoodCity in the Country Right Now”,San Francisco has become a bywordfor everything that’s hot in thefood scene: inventive, in season andeminently photogenic. A whopping26 new restaurants were announcedthe month before my visit. Forgetdinner and a show – here, dinner is

the show. It’s standard to see linesforming at 4.30pm for a restaurantthat doesn’t open until 6pm, orfor restaurants to book out monthsin advance.

San Francisco’s foodie threadstretches far back – you can draw adirect line from the Gold Rush of1848 (which would swell the city’spopulation from 1,000 to 25,000) tothe snap-happy brunchers of today.People from every corner of theglobe arrived seeking their fortune,bringing with them new culinarytraditions that are still going strong.Combine this with the city’s lushsurrounding farmland and a busy

newcastledesign.ie0404 65000BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Handcrafted Cabinetry



port and you have the perfect recipefor foodie paradise.

I make for Californios (311522nd Street, +1 415 757 0994;californiossf.com), deep in theheady Mission neighbourhood.Spearheaded by chef-owner ValCantu, the tiny, 26-seat restaurantfeatures luxe decor and crisp, whitelinen tablecloths – unusual infamously casual California. Alsoatypical is that the 12- to 16-coursetasting menu ($125) is the onlydining option, and only revealedat the end of the meal. Young,passionate staff delicately usetweezers in the calm, open kitchen,creating visual feasts inspired byCantu’s Mexican heritage.

Another foodie darling is TheProgress (1525 Fillmore Street,+1 415 673 1294; theprogress-sf.

SLEEP AT …TECHSAVVY Celebrating SanFranciso’s legendary counter-culturetradition, the new Hotel Zeppelinblends playful, psychedelic styling withthoroughly modern amenities, includingbeloved SF brands such as SightglassCoffee and Dynamo Donuts, in-roomNetflix, a playroom decked out withan oversized electronic bingo boardand a partnership with buzzed-aboutconcierge app Scout. Rooms from$345. (545 Post Street, +1 800 662 1142;viceroyhotelsandresorts.com)

GREATVISTAS Even though it’s justacross San Francisco’s most famousbridge, Cavallo Point Lodge feelsworlds away – its suites are dottedamong stately pine trees on NationalPark grounds. The rooms come withfireplaces and rocking chairs – all thebetter to drink in that beautiful view.Rooms from $265. (601 Murray Circle,Fort Baker, Sausalito, +1 415 339 4700;cavallopoint.com)

STYLECENTRAL A modern boutiquehotel right around the corner fromUnion Square, Hotel Zetta is aluxurious base from which to explorethe Bay Area. Rooms are decadentlyspacious for a downtown location,with a salvage chic design ethosresulting in lots of found art and fundetails (our room featured portraitsmade of old floppy disks). Rooms from$295. (55 5th Street, +1 415 543 8555;viceroyhotelsandresorts.com)

com). Set in a former movie theatre,it’s aesthetically impressive, witheverything from chairs, lightfixtures and dishes custom-madeby local craftspeople. Warm andfriendly chef-proprietors StuartBrioza and Nicole Krasinskihave created a set sharing menu($58 per person), the highlights ofwhich include grilled beef tartaredished up with green garlic-smokedoyster aioli, kohlrabi, and puffedrice. The mood is mellow and youquickly see why eating here hasbeen described as “the best dinnerparty ever”.

Speaking of which: hobnob atLazy Bear (3416 19th Street,+1 415 874 9921; lazybearsf.com).Chef-owner David Barzelay startedit as a pop-up in 2009 in anunderground venue that became

This page, Golden Gate Bridge fromLands End Trail. Opposite, clockwisefrom top left, The Progress’ Stuart

Brioza and Nicole Krasinski; Mexicanmouthfuls in the Mission neighbourhood;a cosmo cocktail masterclass; snappedsquares of Dandelion chocolate; RaviKapur, chef-partner at Liholiho, and

grilled Spanish octopus at The Progress.


SMART FLIERSAER LINGUS flies from Dublinto SAN FRANCISCO daily.

so popular a lottery system had tobe introduced to handle demandfor tickets. It now has a home inthe Mission, in a venue that’s bothrustic and sleek. Tickets (from $145)are bought in advance and sell outwithin minutes. The night kicks offwith cocktails on the mezzanine,where mingling with fellow dinersis encouraged, driving home theidea that you’re at a dinner party,not a restaurant. “Nibbles” are alsoproffered: a shot glass contains awhipped, scrambled egg mousselayered with bacon oil, maple syrupand house-made hot sauce. Fordinner we sit at communal tablesbeside the open kitchen to whichwe’re invited to wander up, wineglass in hand, and chat to the chefs.

Another pop-up gone permanentis Liholiho Yacht Club (871

Sutter Street, +1 415 440 5446;liholihoyachtclub.com), which servesHawaiian-tinged fare. Step overthe welcoming blue and white“Aloha” tiles and enter chef-partnerRavi Kapur’s domain, where theplaylist is achingly hip, the mooddecidedly chill and the food is funand inventive. Kapur deftly remixesHawaiian classics, such as tunapoke, and creates new signaturedishes, such as rich beef tonguenestled in poppy-seed steam buns.

If the choice of eateries provesoverwhelming, book a food tour.I tried Gourmet Walk ($85 for athree-hour tour, +1 415 312 1119;gourmetwalks.com) in eclecticHayes Valley, whose foodie credhas been given a boost throughspeciality shops, street food cafésand covetable macarons. Highlights

included “made to order” ice creamat Smitten (432 Octavia Street,+1 415 863 1518; smittenicecream.com),where patent-protected machinesuse liquid nitrogen to churn out theunctuous goodness in minutes, andalso upscale Vietnamese sambos atDragonEats (520 Gough Street,+1 415 795 1469; dragoneats.com).Next on our list was theDogpatchneighbourhood – the Brooklynof San Francisco and home to



INSTA-WORTHY EATS ...BAKERY Jostle your way through iPhone-wielding snappersat Mr. Holmes Bakehouse. Home of the headline-grabbing“cruffin” (croissants baked in muffin tins, then rolled in sugar andfilled with pastry cream), other quirky favourites here includesushi-themed croissants and jalapeño and jam brioches. Expecteverything to be sold out by 11am on a weekend. (1042 LarkinStreet; mrholmesbakehouse.com)

ICECREAM It takes a while to reach the front of the queueat long-time favourite Bi-Rite Creamery but you won’t bedisappointed. Flavours include green tea and honey lavender,and favourite staff combos are listed on exterior walls so youcan ponder while you wait. Tip: for those in a hurry, there’s aseparate speedy window for soft serve. (3692 18th Street,+1 415 626 5600; biritecreamery.com).

COFFEEHIT There’s no doubt about it: San Francisco’s coffeegame is strong. Pick your café based on what bit of the beanscene appeals to you most – for photo-friendly latte art, tryRitual in the Mission. (1026 Valencia Street, +1 415 641 1011;ritualroasters.com)

Clockwise fromtop left, rainbow

roots at the FerryBuilding Market;

city views at dusk;the “cruffin” at

Mr. Holmes, andice cream at

Bi-Rite Creamery.

Healy Mac’s multi-award-winning Irish Bar & RestaurantMalaysia • Indonesia • Ireland • Spain

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the SFMade movement, whichchampions local manufacturers andproducers. There, old industrialbuildings are now portioned intomicro-factories/stores that makeand sell everything from brightbackpacks to decadent chocolate.

One early morning I bravedthe fog and ventured to theEmbarcadero and Ferry BuildingMarketplace (outdoor marketson Tuesdays, Thursdays, andSaturdays, +1 415 983 8030;ferrybuildingmarketplace.com).While I blearily rubbed sleep outof my eyes and sought out thenearest coffee stand, I spotted

some of the city’s most renownedsous chefs stocking up on fresh,organic produce and chatting tofarmers and suppliers about edibleflowers. It’s a must-visit for any self-respecting foodie.

As the end of my trip approached,Ben – that very same boyfriendfrom five years ago – joined me fora day of soaking up the sights. Wemade one final pit stop – AlamoSquare, with its famous PaintedLadies, a row of postcard-perfectVictorian houses now bathed inglorious Californian sunlight. Andfor a city filled with surprises, Iwas in for my biggest one of all:Ben pulled a ring out of his hoodiepocket and asked me to marry him(spoiler alert: I said yes). I was giddywith love and excitement – not justat our engagement but also at therealisation that we now have theperfect excuse to visit San Franciscotime and time again. Safe to say, theBay Area hasn’t seen the last of us.

Clockwisefrom far left,the Missionneighourhood;bright backpacksin the Dogpatchneighbourhood;our writerNathalie and beauBen having thepost-engagementgiggles; edibleflowers at theFerry Market,and trader EmilyNathon.

SMARTTIPS

WHEELYGOOD Hit the

food trucks on a Friday night

at Off The Grid (5pm-10pm;

offthegridsf.com), a weekly

outdoor food market on the

grounds of the Fort Mason

Center, with a distinct party

vibe. The pork buns at The

Chairman are well worth

standing in line for.

RAINBOWBRIGHTS Kicking

off from San Francisco’s

historic City Hall, this year’s

SF Gay Pride Parade, June

25-26, is a wild, weekend-long

extravaganza of music, food

and festivities, with more

than 300 exhibitors and 20

stages. sfpride.org

HAMSOLO Do a self-made

food tour by downloading the

brilliant Detour app (detour.

com), whose collection of ten

rich, immersive audio tours

were created by award-

winning food producers

based in key SF locations.

Find out more ways to Fly Smart

by visiting aerlingus.com.

SMART EDIT | FESTIVALS


You say, we say ...

Our edit of your favourite arts, culture and floral fests.10SUMMERFESTIVALSto brighten your day

ne of themanyexcellentthings aboutsummer

is the festivals. Nowthat the weather is clement– mostly – we’re all invitedto head out into the greatoutdoors to listen to arias inamphitheatres, coo at showgardens, nod approvinglyat urban installations, androck out with the greatunwashed. Once upon atime, festivals were aimedsquarely at young folk – whonow have their own kidsthat they want to sling overtheir backs on a trip to thefood tent, or pogo with atthe silent disco. We are nowa generation of festival goersof all ages, persuasions, andbrand of Wellington boot.

So, without furtherado: Paint a flower onyour cheek, raise anartisanal cocktail, and leafthrough our compilationof your favourite arts andculture fests.

O

Body & Soul, Co WestmeathDidn’t she do well? Avril Stanley first launched Body & Soul as a chill-out enclave at ElectricPicnic festival, combining music, poetry, visual arts and wellness. In 2009 it became a festival inits own right on the grounds of Ballinlough Castle, Co Westmeath, and is now one of Ireland’sbest-loved summer shindigs. B&S regular Amanda Kavanagh, editor of IMAGE Interiors & Living,has particularly fond memories of 2014: “I remember snaking through the crowd and finding myfriends just as John Grant took to the stage. Lovely sunny afternoon. Nothing like heading for anafternoon massage after you’ve lugged all your camping gear to the campsite either.” This year,check out The Gloaming, Mercury Rev, Santigold and much more besides. bodyandsoul.ie

1

ALL

ENK

IELY


Flower Carpet, BrusselsAssembled by 100 volunteers in under four hours, this isflower arranging on a colossal scale. A huge carpet madeup of more than 600,000 begonias takes up most of thehistoric Grand-Place in Brussels, creating a patchwork ofbright petals that needs to be seen to be believed. Thedisplay, open to viewing for a brief window every twoyears – this year the carpet will be on display for fourdays from August 12 – you can amble around its perimeterbut the best views are from the balcony of the town hall.Backdropped by the magnificent Gothic architectureof the square, the carpet has been described as“breathtakingly majestic, and let’s not ever forget Godivachocolatiers around the corner!” They’re both absolutemust-see spots. flowercarpet.be

2

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin Brussels daily.LABORIVER

Jazz Age Lawn Party, Governor’s Ball, NYCProbably the best dressed festival in the worldreturns to Governor’s Island this July 11-12 and August13-14. There, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’dwandered on to the set of aGreat Gatsby rebootat this family friendly homage to all-things 1920s.From gals in flapper frocks, to gents in three-piecesuits and straw boaters, there’s no limit to the razzledazzle, with craft cocktails, dance shows, Charlestonclasses and live jazz from the handsomeMichaelArenella and His Dreamland Orchestra. Reported

the great Bill Cunningham for The New York Timeslast year: “For many, it’s an escape from present dayreality to what is perceived as sophistication andfreedom that the flappers in the Roaring Twentiesbrought to America.” jazzagelawnparty.com

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Aer Lingus flies to New York up to three timesdaily, and from Shannon daily.P

HOTO

GRAPHSBYFILIPWOLA

K



Outside Lands,San FranciscoLocated in the gorgeous Golden GatePark, you’ll never confuse this festivalwith any other. “Outside Lands is rightbang in the middle of San Francisco,you can watch the final set and stillcatch last orders in town,” accordingto David Milligan, an annual attendee.“The festival attracts some of the bestbands in the world to play and the partyatmosphere mixed with the relaxedvibes of San Francisco’s bar scenemake it a truly unique experience”. Andif the music isn’t your thing, there’salso Beer Lands, Wine Lands and aplethora of food trucks that make upthe area known as “Gastromagic”. Theyalso have a green programme that runsalongside the festival to make it aseco-friendly as possible. So Californian.sfoutsidelands.com4

5

Aer Lingus flies from Dublinto San Francisco daily.

TINAHEL

LIER

JORGEN

SENPHOTO

GRAPHY

London Design FestivalRunning every year to coincide with Fashion Week, the London DesignFestival aims to bring innovative, dynamic design to the sites and soundsof the capital and boy, does it confound and astonish. Taking over majorlandmarks, the festival welcomes hundreds of creative and vibrant designprojects and workshops. The festival also places emphasis on smaller artistsand studios with pop-up events and unique spaces scattered around the citycentre. This year’s event kicks off September 17-25. londondesignfestival.com

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast toLondon Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2+3531 6707238WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM

OPEN 7 DAYS2 COURSE LUNCH €17.003 COURSE LUNCH €19.00

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A LA CARTE MENUEXTENSIVE WINE LISTGREAT COCKTAILS



6Wilderness, OxfordshireCould this be the most genteel music festival ever? Located in Cornbury Park,Oxfordshire, the Surrey and West London massive descend on a sublimely sylvanlocation of woodland and boating lake. It’s where music (artists this August 4-7include Robert Plant, The Flaming Lips and the Wilderness Orchestra’s tribute toDavid Bowie) really plays second fiddle to more diverse attractions, among themwild swimming, cricket matches, literary debates, outdoor theatre, dance, yurtbuilding workshops, a pop-up spa and tofu hugging (probably). “I love the foodelement, especially the long-table banquets,” says Danielle Riley, who has beento Wilderness for each of its six years, “They have Long Table Banquets and chefAngela Hartnett curates a forum.” wildernessfestival.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Birmingham daily, and from Shannonsix times per week.


XXXX

EdinburghFringe Festival“When the Edinburgh Fringe Festival rolls intotown it completely transforms the city,” saysJenny McKeever. The naughtier sister of theEdinburgh International Festival (August 5-29),the Fringe’s atmosphere is as electric andeclectic as the artists and revellers it attracts.“If you can’t decide where to start with thefestival’s colossal calendar”, advises Jennyof this year’s event August 5-29, “take a walkdown the Royal Mile and get some inspirationfrom people handing out flyers, or simplylounge in The Meadows [park] if the weatheris behaving”. edfringe.com

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8

Chelsea Flower Show“The RHS Chelsea Flower is a gardener’s Mecca”, according to Mary Heskin, a green-fingered gardener inGalway. The fanciest bouquet in the RHS’ garden shows, Chelsea’s displays, designed by the world’s mostrenowned gardeners and horticulturalists are utter fantasy and the Pimm’s and champagne bars scatteredthroughout only add to the air of affluence in London’s wealthiest neighbourhoods. However, all pretence ofappearance quicky dissipates once the Chelsea bell rings on the final day and every plant, pot and sculpturegoes up for sale. “There’s plenty for us mere weekend gardeners too!” assures Mary. The crowd are sodelighted to be there that it makes for a wonderful few days away from the chaotic capital. rhs.org

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and dailyflights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Edinburgh daily.DANNYNORTH

RHS/NEILHEP

WORTH



Bloom DublinThis family-friendly festival is theperfect opportunity to check outDublin’s Phoenix Park – Europe’slargest urban park. Bloom has a realeasy-going feel as people meanderup and down pathways looking atthe planting schemes and unusualspecies of its show gardens. “It’s nota stroller roller derby either”, saysMary Heskin, “you don’t have tospend the entire day edging aroundprams”. There’s plenty of space to sitdown and soak up the atmospheretoo, whether it’s listening to the liveorchestra or tasting your way throughall the culinary bites our little islehas to offer. It’s the ideal afternoonretreat from the hubbub of Dublincity. bloominthepark.com

9

10OVER

TO YOUIn the next issue

we share your RooftopWonders (bars, restaurants,farms, etc) in Aer Lingusdestinations. Have yoursay@CARAMagazine,using the hashtag#CaraYSWS.

9 Arena Opera Festival, VeronaIn fair Verona this June 24 to August 26is the 94th Arena Opera Festival, heldin one of the world’s most impressivetheatres – the Arena di Verona. “Ifyou only ever see one opera in yourlifetime,” recommends David Hallam,“watch it here. The setting and acoustics

are magical.” Dating back to the firstcentury, concert venues don’t get muchmore evocative than this; where oncesome 30,000 Romans were packedinto this structure, it now comfortablyseats 15,000. The amphitheatre hostslive performances all year round (acts

include Björk, Radiohead, One Directionand, er, Spandau Ballet) but it is theannual opera festival when it reallycomes into its own. This year welcomesbig hitters Carmen, Aida, La Traviata,Turandot, Il Trovatore and ballet starRoberto Bolle and friends. arena.it

Aer Lingus flies from Dublinto Verona four times per week.

NICKBRADSHAW

“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We sourcethe best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simpletechniques to extract the most flavour, while giving youthe information you need to add nutrition and structureto your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demandfor freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, whileproviding a healthy but affordable eating approach.”

- Dylan McGrath

“Quite simply a menu designed to support the very best of homegrownproduce. The food is assembled in an uncomplicated way that relieson its freshness to shine through as a real hero. We are committed tobringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce,at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort andcommitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are aninspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolvingwith a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidlydeveloping food island”. - DylanMcGrath

“This exciting City CentreTapa

s bar layout

positioned in the new hub of Dublin’s

dining

scene is a sharing concept that

I have designed

to allow simple, seasonal, innovation in sm

all

tapas style bursts of flavour. So

whether you’re

going to the theatre, coming back from show or

just enjoying the company of friends,

this casual

experience is always fun and e

ngaging to be

mulled over or eaten on the run”

.

- Dylan McGrath

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com

“This exciting City CentreTapa

s bar layout

Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland.Tel: +353 (0) 1 7079596

17 South Great Georges StreetT: 01 707 9596

Fade St Social,

4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2

T:01 6040066fadestreetsoc

ial.com

Taste at Rustic is an exciting new restaurant in the heartof Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrathto explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the roomcooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain andSouth America.

“I love the flavour release of some of these cookingtechniques. I find something special in the use of theirimmediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”.- Dylan McGrath

DESTINATION | PRAGUE



CZECHBaitsPrague may be this year’sEuropean Capital of Sport but it’sbest known for its arts, culture – andfantastic pilsner. We see what’s newin this most historic of capitals.

WORDS JAMIE BLAKE KNOXPHOTOGRAPHS SEAN BREITHAUPT AND YVETTE MONAHAN

This page, Klara Pavlikova withDelphina in Letná Park. Opposite,

Prague Castle from the miniEiffel Tower on Petrín Hill.



ew cities in theworld can capturethe imaginationquite like Prague.The wildly eccentric

Emperor Rudolf II made Prague thecapital of the Holy Roman Empireand the city is scenically situatedon a bend of the Vltava river. Forcenturies, it has been contested byrival dynasties and denominations.It has withstood Slavic hordes,endured a succession of Habsburgs,resisted occupation by the Nazisand survived domination by theSoviets. All of this tumultuous pastis reflected in its unique culturalheritage and architecture.

Trying to negotiate Prague’smost iconic landmarks at the heightof summer can be a challengethough. There are usually densecrowds of tourists and it’s not hardto figure out what draws them. TheOld Town has the Baroque domeof St Nicholas’ Church, the soaringpointed spires of the Church ofOur Lady before Týn, and – touristtrail centrepiece – the beautiful

F15th-century Astronomical Clock.The Hradčany district and castlecomplex also contains St VitusCathedral, a Gothic wonder thatholds some stunning stained-glass windows crafted by thecelebrated Czech Art Nouveaupainter Alphonse Mucha. It can allseem too romantic for words andit’s not surprising that it attractslarge crowds. But there’s no needto panic. Prague is full of otheramazing attractions, which are offthe main drag.

Fortunately, Prague is anunusually compact city. Publictransport is cheap and easy tonavigate, the trams zipping alongat a rate of knots. You’ll also noticethat the metro is located deep, deepunderground. This was so thatit could be used as shelter in theevent of nuclear war. Thankfully,that danger has passed – andmeans that in the summer heat, theunderground offers some relief fromthe sun.

Once you’ve done a pilgrimageof the historic landmarks, the

The historicpedestrian

Charles bridge asit crosses over the

Vltava river.

Žižkov district is well worthexploring. This is the burial placeof Prague’s most famous literary son– novelist Franz Kafka. Residentssometimes refer to it as the“Republic of Žižkov”, and they areonly half-joking because the areahas always enjoyed an identity thatis quite distinct from its neighbours.Originally, it was a workers’ districtthat served the heavy industry ofthe 19th century. Today, it buzzeswith nightlife. In fact, it has thehighest concentration of barsanywhere in Europe. These rangefrom small and cosy taverns to chiccocktail bars, and there’s one tosuit just about every taste. Manyof the older buildings have beenreconstructed but the district hasretained an edgy feel, becoming ahaunt for students, writers, artists,musicians and assorted bohemians– all drawn to its cool clubs, smartrestaurants and cheap rents.

There is also a great deal ofarchitectural variety here. Thefaded grandeur of the late-19thcentury apartment blocks,



SLEEP AT …OLD WORLDE It would be easy tomistake the Questenberk Hotel for achurch – colossal Baroque statues ofJesus and assorted saints greet youas you enter. Built in 1620 as lodgingsfor monks of the Strahov Monastery,it still contains many of its originalartworks and features. The monks’cells have been tastefully renovatedand each room has its own distinctcharacter. And it is only a few minutes’walk from Prague Castle. Rooms from€104. (Úvoz 15/155 , +420 220 407600; questenberk.cz)

CHIC Housed in a 16th-centurybuilding in the heart of ancient Prague,Bishop’s House is bringing paredback elegance to a new level. Softlighting and sleek design. Rent a bike at

reception and take a cycle aroundthe old town or head to the CharlesBridge just a few metres away andpeople-watch as the river ebbsby. Rooms from €140. (DražickénoNámestí 6/62, +420 257 532 320;hotelbishopshouse.cz)

CHI CHI The recently openedHotel Josef in the historic centreelegantly blends in with the richnessof its surroundings. The interiors arebright with wall-length windows andminimalist but comfortable features.For joggers, it also offers morningromps around the city (Tuesday andFriday, 7.30am) or, if you prefer to runsolo, staff will recommend a series ofroutes. Rooms from €99. (Rybná 20,+420 221 700 111; hoteljosef.com)

Soviet constructivist buildingsand the splendid colour of theArt Deco former theatre and nowmultimedia arts centre, the PalácAkropolis (palacakropolis.cz), allshare the same streets. Cute cafés,vintage boutiques and pop-up shopsabound and there always seemsto be something new to do andsomewhere new to visit.

Top, PeterVeidner at the

Palác Akropolisrestaurant, and

doggie heaven inŽižkov district,

above.


3 VITALVISITS ...NAKED TOUR Originallyhailing from Kildare, MarcusBradshaw, above, offers fun,off-the-beaten-track walksfor independent travellerson a wide variety of themes.His tours are meticulouslyresearched and nuanced, hisdelivery relaxed and full of wit.He has lived in the city for yearsand is a fountain of fantastic tipsand helpful recommendations.(+420 778 030 508;nakedtourguideprague.com)

JELENÍ PRÍKOP Also known asDeer Moat, it was designed toallow the Habsburg emperors tohunt deer from the safety of thecastle. Meanwhile, few peopleknow that it’s possible to walkalong the bottom of the moat.In the heat of summer, thisprovides some welcome cooland shade. To one side, thereis the summer palace – on theother the huge castle complexlooms high above you.

KAMPA GALLERY Set in thegrounds of the old Sova’s millon a small island beside CharlesBridge, it houses pieces by thecelebrated Cubist sculptor OttoGutfreund, along with one ofthe world’s most comprehensivecollections of work by Czechabstract painter FrantišekKupka. It spans his workinglife and is a riot of colourand emotional expression.(Museum Kampa, U Sovovýchmlýnu 2, +420 257 286 147;museumkampa.com/en)

illuminated with dramatic shaftsof light, it looks truly spectacular.

It is at night that Žižkovreally comes into its own. Theatmosphere is so chilled andrelaxed that people often bringtheir pets along to some of thenightclubs and it’s not unusual tosee them grooving on the dancefloor accompanied by their dogs.Seriously. And although technicallyin nearby Jiřího z Poděbrad Square,BeerGeek (Vinohradská 988/62,+420 776 827 068; beergeek.cz) isdefinitely worth the short journey. Ithas some 30 beers on tap, includingsome of the very best in town. Aftersampling their nectar, I recommendrustic brewhouse Pivnice USadu (Pospíšilova 1528/2, +420222 727 072; usadu.cz), whichserves traditional Czech fooduntil late and is perfect for night-time revelry. Also recommended

At 216 metres tall, it’s hardto miss the Žižkov TelevisionTower. This, a striking symbolof Communist-era paranoia, wasspecifically designed to blockTV transmissions from thedecadent West (ironically, it wasnot completed until 1992, threeyears after the collapse of theSoviet bloc). It holds the dubiousdistinction of being named asthe “Second Ugliest Building inthe World” by virtualtourist.comand I confess that I first sharedthat view – until it won me over.Adorned with bizarre statues ofbabies crawling up and down itstowers – all the work of Prague-born surrealist sculptor DavidČerný – visitors are welcome to itsobservatory, restaurant and evenhotel (towerpark.cz), each offeringextraordinary panoramas. Atnight, when the whole building is

Clockwise fromtop left, the

controversialŽižkov TelevisionTower; students

amble through theHradcany district;cherry blossoming

in the Žižkovneighbourhood,and the Baroque

ceiling in theLoreta Church of

the Nativity.



EAT AT ...RELAXED At Wine FoodMarket, centre left andright, which is nestled inan old warehouse, yousit at communal woodentables surrounded by awide variety of fresh foodstalls. If you’ve begun totire of the local cuisine,then order some excellentpizza and pasta. As youenjoy the food, you mayalso become aware of somerather surreal statues bythe acclaimed sculptorDavid Cerný, lookingdown from the ceiling andrafters. (Strakonická 948/1;winemarket.cz/magazin)

HIP Vinohradský Pivovaris one of Prague’s newestadditions to the thrivingmicrobrewery scene. Mostof this historic buildingwas destroyed by fire butthe basement managed

to survive. With itswhitewashed vaulted ceilingsand simple, clean decor, itmay seem like the lair of aBond villain. The menu keepsto the basics, offering heartydishes, which are goodvalue for money, and a greatselection of beers. (Korunní106, +420 222 760 080;vinohradskypivovar.cz)

HEALTHY Czech foodis not renowned for beingvegetarian friendly but ifall the meat is getting a bittoo much, head to LehkáHlava, top right. Situated ina 14th-century townhouseon one of the shorteststreets in the city, this smallrestaurant offers excellentvegetarian fare served inquirky, beautifully decoratedand colourful rooms.(Boršov 2/280, +420 222220 665; lehkahlava.cz)

DRINK AT ...CHILLED Rooftop terraceT-Anker serves up a greatrange of beers – from bothlocal microbreweries andforeign drafts. Locatedonly a short distance fromthe Old Town, and with themajestic looming Gothicspires of Our Lady beforeTýn only a stone’s throwaway, this is the perfectvantage point to watch thesun set over the city. (ODKotva, 5th floor, Republiky656/8, +420 722 445 474;t-anker.cz)

HIP Positioned nearthe unconventionalbut spectacular ŽižkovTelevision Tower,Bukowski’s pub is locatedin the heart of one of thetrendiest neighbourhoods.

It is full of peculiarfurnishings and is wildlypopular with locals andexpats. Stays open until theearly hours – but beware ofthe cocktails! (Bor ivojova689/86, Praha 3-Žižkov)

CHIC The smallBonvivant’s CTC, left, isunassuming on the outsidebut has a dazzling interior.The tin ceiling is stunninglyornate and contrasts sharplywith the black-and-whitechequerboard floors. Theambience is relaxed andtimeless but they take theircocktails very seriously. Thebartender wears a white labcoat and creates designercocktails and tapas.(Bartolomejská, 305/3 ,+420 775 331 862)

Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around thecorner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and acrossthe road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is oneof Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade hasflourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome andyou can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs,nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

● Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving onlythe finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, LonelyPlanet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irishfood in Dublin’

● Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week

● Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

● Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught inIreland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweriesas possible, rotating and guesting beers

● Pour Your Own Pint tables

● Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

● For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar whereyou’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts

● HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with majorinternational league games.

● Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten forquality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast,pictured below.

*This special offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

Really Good FullIrish Breakfast only

*

€6.95

M.J. O’NeillSuffolk Street, Dublin 2Tel. 01 679 3656www.oneillsbar.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pmFri: 8.00am-12.30amSat: 8.00am-12.30amSun: 8.00am-11.00pmSatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to findReal Irish Food in Dublin

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week

Molly Malone Statueopposite O’Neill’s

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top BeerGarden & Smoking Area

The Head Chef Dave carving from aselection of freshly roasted meats

at the Carvery



is a trip to DOX art gallery(Poupětova 1, +420 295 568 123;dox.cz), in Holešovice. It’s locatedin a reconstructed former factoryand specialises in contemporaryCzech art, architecture and design.The buildings retain a sense oftheir industrial heritage, with highwindows and facades of exposedbricks alternating with strips ofwhite plaster. This is one of thecoolest, most cutting-edge galleriesin the city, with a constant flowof unconventional and thought-provoking events and exhibitions.

If the excesses of the nightbefore begin to catch up on you,retire to the Riegrovy Sadypark. This is famed not only

for its wonderful views, shadedpathways and monuments, butalso for its legendary beer garden(praguebeergarden.com). There,it’s easy to forget that it’s less than30 years since this city emergedfrom behind the Iron Curtain.One of its recent presidents wasjailed as a dissident by the oldregime but, since then, Praguehas emerged as one of the mostexciting capital cities in Europe.It lies at the heart of the continentin more ways than one, and thisbeautiful park is an ideal placeto order a glass of the local beer,sit back in the sunshine andcontemplate Prague’s compellingtransformation.

SMARTTIPS

AERLINGUS flies from

Dublin to PRAGUE five

times per week.

PRAGUEPROMS It was in

the lavishly decorated Art

Nouveau Municipal House

that the Czechoslovak

Republic was declared in

1918. It hosts a series of

concerts organised by the

Czech National Symphony

Orchestra, Prague Proms.

Tickets are relatively cheap

and it runs from June 21 to

July 26. pragueproms.cz

BEERCHEER Now in its

fourth year, the wonderfully

named Tasting Festival

of Small and Mini Czech

Breweries celebrates

some of the country’s best

microbreweries and is an

absolute must for beer

enthusiasts. Running June

17-18, the atmosphere is

relaxed, and there are

plenty of food stalls.

pivonanaplavce.cz

Clockwise from top left, Mario Pollujansky at CaféLouvre; the view from Letná Park beer garden; the

entrance to the Loreta, and the tram that runs throughthe Hradcany district. Below, DOX gallery’s café.

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DESTINATION | AMSTERDAM


Canal life,Blauwburgwal,in Centrum.


COOLPRETTYAmsterdam is the gift that keeps ongiving. From its historical sites to itshipster ’hoods, the Dutch city neverceases to amaze and excite.

WORDSCAROLINE FORAN PHOTOGRAPHSMARK DUGGAN

ust a few hoursinto Amsterdam’sconcentric streetsand you’ll be lustingafter your very own

rickety canal house. Cyclists cruiseby in every direction without anysense of urgency – despite theirindustrious past, the Dutch don’tdo stress – and the constant chirrupof bike bells provides the citywith its unmistakable soundtrack.The tummy-gurgle-inducingscent of poffertjes (mini Dutchpancakes) percolates through itscobblestoned streets, while canals,lined with picture-perfect tulipsand houseboats, demand attention.Amsterdam is strikingly bothold and new, with cutting-edgearchitecture set against a backdropof merchants’ houses so seeminglyfragile, you fear they might blowover in a gust of wind.

The city’s vices are as welldocumented as its virtues, ofcourse, but there’s something elsethat keeps visitors coming back:its inclusive charm. Amsterdam

J



SLEEP AT…

CLASSY No amount of nights willbe enough at the five-star PulitzerHotel, above. Comprising 25 restored,

conjoined canal houses, the decor isinspiring and its breakfasts to die for.You’ll also be hard pushed to find a hotelbed as comfortable. Rooms from €309.(Keizersgracht 224, +31 20 523 5235;pulitzeramsterdam.com)

HIP Amsterdam’s W is an architecturalfeast for the eyes. It is also incrediblycomfortable and very lively, thanks to its“Happenings” series, when notable DJstake to the decks of its top-floor bar andoutdoor terrace with its heated pooland great panoramic views. Rooms from€440. (Spuistraat 175, +31 20 811 2500;wamsterdam.com)

ARTY Art’otel is mind-bendinglycool – it even has a full-time curator.Bedrooms feature kooky-cool art too,as well as the essential comfy bed andsnug bathrobe. Rooms from €350.(Prins Hendrikkade 33, +31 20 719 7200;artotelamsterdam.com)

BOUTIQUE The deep blue shadesof traditional delftware are evidentthroughout the Andaz. Meticulousdesign imbues every single elementhere, and their canal-side location – andcocktails – are also tip top. Rooms from€423. (Prinsengracht 587, +31 20 5231234; andaz.hyatt.com)

is small but not too small; it’sgentrified but not unbearablyso. There’s scarcely a street thatisn’t Instagrammably pretty andthe pace of life is more relaxedthan most capitals, yet still, thecity remains a bustling hub ofcommerce and culture.

Amsterdam’s modest rootsas a quiet fishing village on theAmstel River were irrevocablychanged with the right to freepassage through its waters in the14th century. It fast became a key,prosperous trade port later enablingthe storied Golden Age, whenVermeer, Rembrandt and Boschstrutted their stuff. The diamondand spice trade of the 19th centurybrought more fame and fortuneuntil the economic crisis post-WorldWar I and the German occupationof World War II (a visit to theAnne Frank House and the JewishHistorical Museum are must-dosfor the first-time visitor) pausedthe party.

And so we arrive at modern-day Amsterdam, home to 780,000inhabitants, with residents hailingfrom more than 180 countries.Here we must seek out the nativesor, more pointedly, its hipsters. Love’em or loathe ’em, the H-squad arealways a good barometer of what’s

Clockwise from top, the cool rooftopswimming pool at the W Hotel; cyclistsenjoying the dappled sunshine atVondel Park, and charming buildingson Haarlemmerstraat.

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EAT AT…UPSCALE Nestled within the PulitzerHotel, Jansz is a worthy contenderfor a special occasion. Its interiors aremodern and elegant, the atmospheredelightfully laid-back-Dutch. And thefood’s not bad either: every morselpacks a satisfying punch. A three-course dinner for two with drinks costsaround €150. (Reestraat 8, +31 20 5235282; janszamsterdam.com)

VALUE Touted by locals as the bestThai restaurant in all of Amsterdam(and, in my mind, the world),Rakang, right, never fails to exceedexpectations. With a cosy, artistic

interior, friendly staff and an affordablemenu, prepare for the fact that afterRakang, no meal will ever taste as good.Sorry. (Elandsgracht 29-31, +31 20 6275012; rakang.nl)

BUDGET Positioned somewherebetween a thick American pancakeand a thin French crêpe, the Dutchpancake should be eaten to bebelieved. At Pancakes Amsterdam– whether choosing sweet or savoury– you’re in for a treat. Expect aqueue on weekends, but it’s worthit. (Berenstraat 38, +31 20 528 9797;pancakesamsterdam.com)

Clockwise from above, Babiche van Beurden at thesweet retreat, Pluk Café; great service at Jansz

restaurant; a calm moment overlooking Prinsengracht;Airto Cramer head bartender at Tales & Spirits.


DRINK AT…COCKTAILS No whistle-stop hipstertour of the city is complete withouta cocktail, or four, at the cosy Tales& Spirits, right. With its old-schoolspeakeasy vibes, both the service andthe quality of cocktails here are secondto none. Expect a story behind everycreation – and order the Zombie if youdare ... (Lijnbaanssteeg 5, +31 6 55356467; talesandspirits.com)

WHISKEY For those who like to ordertheir malt without the headache ofchoosing from a menu, Jordaan’s JDWilliam’s Whisky Bar has the paredback, unfussy coolness you’ve longed

for. Cue straight-up whiskey froma family-run establishment, plentyof locals, always a seat andalmost no stags or hens. Hurrah.(Prinsenstraat 5, +31 20 362 0663;jdwilliamswhiskybar.com)

AL FRESCO If you’re looking toget acquainted with the locals, payStruik a visit. It’s a small enough baron the inside, but outside its benchesoverlook the canal. Street art andcool people make it one of Jordaan’smost bustling and creative hotspots,with DJs mixing music most nights.(Rozengracht 160)

hot and what’s not. So, where dothey eat Eggs Benedict and drinkwhiskey sours from inconvenientlyshaped jars?

For the Dutch equivalent ofWilliamsburg or Shoreditch,hightail it to Jordaan and its trendyneighbour De 9 Straatjes, whereAmsterdam’s coolest creativesspend their time being, well, cooland creative. Jordaan was one ofthe first areas in the city to enjoyaesthetic rejuvenation duringthe Golden Age, when upwardlymobile folk required a suitably

picturesque place to live. Famously,it was defined by the area in whichyou could always hear the bellsof Amsterdam’s biggest church,Westerkerk (Prinsengracht 281) –as described by Anne Frank in herdiaries. Nowadays, it’s populatedby well-to-do 20/30-somethings.Jordaan’s inhabitants might havebeards and/or tattoos but they dresswell, curating their wardrobes fromindie boutiques and vintage stores.They shop locally, eat locally, andthey don’t drink overly complicatedcoffees (there isn’t a Starbucks insight). They’re also very welcomingof tourists into the higgledy-piggledy streets of speciality shopsand quirky restaurants.

Graze at Noordermarkt’sOrganic Farmer’s Market on aSaturday, or indulge at the tinybut atmospheric, and pretention-free, Vlaming Eten & Drinken(Lindengracht 95, +31 20 6222716; eetcafevlaming.nl). No self-respecting taste bud could fail tobe impressed by its sesame-seed-encrusted tuna steak. And youdon’t need a long-haul flight forthe taste of Thailand: just go toRakang (Elandsgracht 29-31, +3120 627 5012; rakang.nl), whereinteriors are cute, colourful andquirky, staff are second-to-none and



MUST VISITS…

1HOLLANDFESTIVAL Featuringinternational performing arts fromevery corner of the globe, this

cultural and innovative delight hasbeen running since the 1940s. Theatre,music, spoken word, opera, ballet,street-performances and plenty morethis June 4-26. hollandfestival.nl

2RIJKSMUSEUM Two words:awe inspiring. Not just thetimeless masterpieces and

modern collections that live insideit but the building itself. With ever-changing exhibitions, there’s alwayssomething new to behold – and

don’t forget your token snap by the“I amsterdam” sign, right, outside.(Museumstraat 1, +31 20 674 7000;rijksmuseum.nl)

3CANALCRUISE There’s anoverwhelming number ofcompanies operating canal

cruises from the main port (in frontof the central train station) but ourtried and tested boat trip is theLovers option – don’t worry, there’s noawkward kiss-cam or anything naff likethat (in fact we don’t know why it gotthat name). (Prins Hendrikkade 25,+31 20 530 1090; lovers.nl)

you’ll have arguably the best padThai you’ve ever eaten.

As for Dutch pancakes withmore topping options than youcan probably handle, PancakesAmsterdam (Berenstraat 38, +3120 528 9797; pancakesamsterdam.com) is where it’s at, washed downwith innovative cocktails afterwardsat Tales & Spirits (Lijnbaanssteeg5, +31 6 5535 6467; talesandspirits.com) or for a more informal sup, atthe industrial-chic JD William’sWhisky Bar (Prinsenstraat 5, +31

20 362 0663; jdwilliamswhiskybar.com). Make time for some self-gifting at the Monday fleamarket, Noordermarkt, and getsome headspace just off bustlingRozengracht, at Galerie FonsWelters (Bloemstraat 140-C,+31 20 423 3046; fonswelters.nl),which showcases art worksby emerging, local artists.

It would be easy to getcompletely absorbed by this buzzy’hood and never venture intoAmsterdam proper but, if you’re

Clockwise from below, Americanstyle brunch at Pancakes! café;shredding at the skate park on

Marnixstraat; a customised bikein Jordaan; Nicolette Bosschieter,

proprietor of Pancakes! café.

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a first-time visitor, you’ll want tosee the star attractions. Get yourbearings on, of course, a canalcruise (see “3 Must visits”, page 94).No debut trip to Amsterdam wouldbe complete, either, without a strollaround Museumplein, home tosome of the world’s most laudedmuseums: the Rijksmuseum(Museumstraat 1, +31 20 674 7000;rijksmuseum.nl) and StedelijkMuseum (Museumplein 10,+31 20 573 2911; stedelijk.nl).

It’s an incredibly chic district,with plenty of upmarket diningand designer shops, the luxuriousHouse of Bols: Cocktail &Genever Experience (PaulusPotterstraat 14, +31 20 5708575; houseofbols.com) and thecity’s internationally renownedorchestral concert venue, thestunning home of the RoyalConcertgebouw Orchestra (Jacob

SMARTTIPS

AERLINGUS flies from

Dublin to AMSTERDAM

four times daily, and from

Cork daily.

SIGHTSEEING If you’ve big

plans to cover some serious

museum ground, you’ll save

heaps with an I amsterdam

City Card, which you pay

for upfront before enjoying

free access to loads of

star attractions. Buy at the

airport, Centraal Station or at

the Museumplein. From €55

for 24 hours through to €85

for 96 hours. More info from

iamsterdam.com.

CINE Throughout June,

Amsterdam plays host to

open-air cinema on the

“beach” at the waterside

café, Pllek. Screenings run

every Tuesday after sunset,

the programme offering a

mix of cult classics, arthouse

gems and world cinema.

Tickets €5. (Tt. Neveritaweg

59, +31 20 290 0020; pllek.nl)

Obrechtstraat 51, +31 20 305 1010;concertgebouworkest.nl).

In summer, feel the sandbetween your toes on one ofAmsterdam’s many urban beaches.Take the short ferry from CentraalStation to Pllek (Tt. Neveritaweg59, +31 20 290 0020; pllek.nl), thehippest of bars on the hippest ofman-made beaches, completewith live music, DJ sets andopen-air cinema.

The next day, rejuvenate in the47-hectare Vondelpark; home toan open-air theatre, the mostexquisite rose garden with morethan 70 different species, a skaterental shop and several cute cafésand restaurants.

We could dedicate an entire issueto Amsterdam’s diversity but thatwould spoil its magic. It’s muchbetter discovered IRL (that’s hipsterspeak for “in real life”, BTW).

Clockwise fromtop left, sunnycyclist crossingthe bridge at

Vondel Park; insidethe spectacularRijksmuseum;blossoming atVondel Park,

and art spying atBinnen Oranje

Straat.

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SMART EDIT | SURFING

LaurenHeskin catches some ofthe best waves at home and away.

5SWEETSURFSPOTS

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BUNDORANYou’d be forgiven for thinking thatBundoran was a sleepy sort of town –until you reach the beach. This is Ireland’sfirst true surfers’ hub, with some of themost consistent waves on the west coast,welcoming surfers all year round to itschilly waters and smooth waves.

SURF AT There are a few spots aroundBundoran town where you can expecta few peaks. For beginners, BundoranBeach right in the heart of town is theperfect place to find your feet, dittoTullen Strand, a short walk away. Formore experienced surfers – and in anortherly swell – paddle out to the reef atthe southern end of the beach. It breaksleft and right and if the wash is too bigto get beyond, leave from the pier. In apumping westerly swell get yourself toMullaghmore, Co Sligo, where you’ll findthe pros cruising some monster waves.For gear rental, lessons, or weatherreports, call into Surfworld (surfworld.ie),run by surfer Ritchie Fitzgerald.

STAY AT Located in the heart ofBundoran with an awesome view ofthe bay, TurfnSurf Lodge (turfnsurf.ie) offers activity packages that’llhave adrenaline junkies twitching.For those hoping to merge surfingwith an historical element, swapthe Atlantic wilds for the luxuriousgardens and award-winning spa ofLough Eske Castle (solishotels.com/lougheskecastle).

CHILL AT Surf’s up all year roundbut the best time to hit the townis when Sea Sessions (June 24-26;seasessions.com) draws surfers andmusic lovers. It’s a small enough festivaland thankfully doesn’t attract hardcoreravers. Think chilled beers, great tunes,and probably rain – it is Donegal afterall. Why not switch it up and considerventuring to Lough Key National Park(loughkey.ie) and get your adrenalinefix by swinging through the trees of thecanopy walk?


Ciaran Haresnapesurfing in Bundoran.



Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bordeaux daily.

FRANCE

BORDEAUXThe Aquitaine area is not onlyknown for its famous Bordeauxreds – it’s also the home of Frenchsurfing. The Atlantic rips intothe Bay of Biscay and there areplenty of surf spots trickled alongit, some just a short hop fromBordeaux with all the amenitiesand waves for surfers and everyskill level.

SURF AT Stop by nearbyLacanau, a relatively sleepyspot that has a lovely beach breakthat runs both ways. The waveis clean and consistent, ideal forbeginners but can build up to 10metres so it’s worth experiencedsurfers having a look too. A shorttrip north is Le Pin Sec with alovely right-running wave thatcan quickly build into a tubeas the tide rolls in. If you wantto make a complete trip out ofit, journey south to Hossegor,

where big wave surfing is king.But take note, surfing the mainbeach La Graviére is no easyfeat – it’s often only accessibleby Jet Ski and waves are tall, fastand break in the shallows – a pro’sonly territory. Consider yourselfwarned.

STAY AT Accommodation is fairlysparse once you leave the bubbleof Bordeaux. The brilliantly namedYelloh! Village Les Grand Pins(Plages Nord, Lacanau, +33 56 0320 77; yellohvillage.co.uk) offerschalets and camping right on thebeach. If you heart sank at theword ‘camping’, fear not, this isnot regular camping, this is five-star stuff. Think heated aquaticarea with slides, Jacuzzi, lap pooland zen pool all steps from theocean. For something slightlymore romantic in Hossegor,check out the charming Hôtel

Les Hortensias du Lac for viewsof the lake and a quick walk tothe famous beach (1578 Avenuedu Tour du Lac, +33 58 43 9900;hortensias-du-lac.com).

CHILL AT You can’t ventureinto French wine country andnot enjoy a few glasses. Thelargest wine tourism attraction inthe world, the Bordeaux WineFestival (bordeaux-wine-festival.com), kicks off June 23-26 so getpractising your swirling and sniffingskills for their tasting trails andworkshops. From October 4 theannual Quicksilver Pro France,part of the Men’s Samsung GalaxyWorld Championship Tour, comesto the region. Rock up and you’llfind the quiet maritime forest wideawake with tourists, locals andsurf enthusiasts there to watchthe pros compete in this two-daytournament.A

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CORNWALL

NEWQUAYLong renowned for its distinctive culture,gorgeous coastline, Poldark, and, of course,the famous pasty, Cornwall in Britain’s south-west is beloved by local and internationalsurfers alike, as much for its friendlyatmosphere as for its consistent surf.

SURF AT Generally, surf is best on thenorth shore, with Fistral considered oneof the UK’s best surfing beaches. Thewhite water that sweeps the long sandyshore is ideal for beginners, with plenty ofroom and enough wave power left to giveany potential addict their first thrill. Moreseasoned surfers can leap from the rocks in

the south-west corner for a lovely long leftalong the rocky reef. Keep an eye out for thefickle big wave, Cribbars, off the headlandat the north-east end. It needs a clean, six-metre swell and an onshore breeze to breakbut when it does, expect to see plenty ofpros wandering around the hilly village ofNewquay.

STAY AT For modern luxury head toWatergate Bay Hotel (watergatebay.co.uk), where you’ll find cosy rooms and acalm atmosphere. Meanwhile, the four-starHeadland Hotel’s self-catering holidayhomes (headlandhotel.co.uk) look right onto

the Fistral swell and have all the privacy ofyour own place with the added advantageof the attached surf school, Surf Sanctuary,and access to the hotel’s luxurious spa,indoor swimming pool and whirlpool.

CHILL AT For good, simple food, head toWAX in Watergate Bay. Along with crackingsea views, the vibe is mellow and you can trythe local ciders. Bush Pepper (bushpepper.co.uk) in Newquay village is part of the newfood movement that’s accompanying thesurfing renaissance. No-frills decor and asimple, yet tasty menu courtesy of Aussiechef Chris Brookes.

Aer Lingus Regional flies from Dublin to Newquay six times per week.


CALIFORNIA

HALF MOON BAYCalifornia is probably the first place that comesto mind when you think of surfing, and there areplenty of mellow waves to be found along theWest Coast. Only a short drive from San Franciscoairport is Half Moon Bay, the artist-enclave turnedsurfers’ pilgrimage.

SURF AT The town of Princeton-by-the-Sea has alovely wide right for intermediates that rolls off theharbour jetty and into the main beach and there’sare a few small, easy-peelers just north of PillarPoint. And then there’s Mavericks. One of the mostmythical big wave breaks in the world, Mavericksbreaks off Pillar Point with plenty of viewing spotsfrom the shore. It needs a huge west-north-westswell and easterly breeze to build but once it’sworking, it is off the Richter scale. The Titans ofMavericks surf competition runs from here (themost recent in February), usually waiting until theswell is 12 metres or more, and pro surfers fromaround the world arrive to surf it with only a fewdays’ notice.

STAY AT Live the true Californian lifestyle andcamp if you can. There are loads of great statebeaches and parks along the coast. Half MoonBay State Beach (parks.ca.gov) has camping andbarbecue facilities just steps from the ocean andthere’s usually some white water for playing aroundon body boards. Keep an eye out for the low-flyingpelicans; they’re not afraid of you.

CHILL AT There’sa scenic coastal trailthat’s a 10-kilometreround trip fromtown, or else have a wanderaround the town’s local galleries. If you want to makea weekend out of it, head to Santa Cruz. Surf breaksright in front of the western headland, known as SteamerLane, and a surfing museum is housed in the lighthousenearby. For seafood, an absolute must is Phil’s FishMarket (philsfishmarket.com) at Moss Landing. The greywarehouse lot gives way to live music, shared dining andthe greatest chowder you’ll ever devour, served in asourdough bread bowl.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

town, or else have a wander around the town’s local galleries. If you want to make



Aer Lingus flies Dublin to Lisbonnine times weekly.

PORTUGAL

ERICEIRAThe coastal fishing town of Ericeira ishome to the first surfing reserve in Europewith water babies coming to cruise thewaves on every kind of board.

SURF AT The Ericeira region has eightkilometres of beach with a wave foreveryone. The Reef has right-handedbarrelling breakers for the advancedsurfer, particularly with a heavy north-west swell. Big wave surfers should headto Coxos. Known as one of the bestwaves in Portugal, during a monsternorth-west swell it peaks perfectly for aright-hander, ideal for short boards andthose wanting to try tricks. Despite itsname, Praia do Norte is further southand, with lifeguards on duty, is a greatspot to get the hang of the sport.

STAY AT For a great holiday and perfectsurf spot it’s got to be Chill in EriceiraSurfhouse (chillinericeira.pt). The bright,fun rooms have sea views, a private surfschool and communal barbecue dinners,ideal for laidback schmoozing.

CHILL AT With an easy-goingatmosphere, killer cocktail list and greattunes, Jukebox, a small bar in Ericeiratown, is the perfect place to hit after thesun sets. If your limbs are feeling tight,consider trying Five Deep Breaths Yoga(fivedeepbreaths.com) run by Nadiafor some wind-down movements in theBoardriders Quiksilver store.

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Fionn Davenport finds the best placesto hang out at the end of Route 66.

48 hours inSANTAMONICA

Don't miss ...MUSIC AL FRESCO The city’s mostcompelling landmark – and the officialend of Route 66 – Santa Monica Pierhosts a series of free twilight summerconcerts covering all kinds of musicalstyles. Pack a picnic, take a seat onthe sand and listen to the music aswaves crash in the distance:7-10pm every Thursday, July 7 toSeptember 8. (santamonicapier.org)

BEACHCLUB The 100-roomhouse thatWilliam Randolph Hearstcommissioned Julia Morgan to buildfor his paramour Marion Davies inthe 1920s became a fancy hotel andbeach club in 1947, before falling intodisrepair. Enter local philanthropistWallis Annenberg, who provided

millions of dollars for its repairon the condition thatAnnenbergCommunity BeachHousewould be free and open to all. Open8.30am-5.30pm. (415 Pacific CoastHighway, +1 310 458 4904;beachhouse.smgov.net)

PEDAL POWER Bikes are thebest way to explore Santa MonicaBeach’s 14-kilometre cycle path,which is part of a 42-kilometre trailthat runs the length of the city southto Torrance State Beach. Most hotelshave bikes you can borrow, but youcan also rent them. Half/full-day$25/30. (Santa Monica Bike Center,1555 Second Street, Unit A, +1 310 6568500; smbikecenter.com)

Santa Monica Pier inLA’s eternal sunshine.


Eat at ...FUN Bar Pintxo is small, crampedand boisterous – a convincing piece ofBarcelona on Santa Monica Boulevard.Book a table or a pew at the bar and eatyour fill from a tasty menu of Spanish-style small plates (tapas and pintxos).The paella for four is a treat. Plates $7-17.(109 Santa Monica Boulevard, +1 310 4582012; barpintxo.com)

FISHY Sugarfish embodies theprinciples of Kazunori Nozawa, whopopularised omakase-style sushi insouthern California and earned admirersfor his ban on phones and loud talking inhis restaurant. No such strictures here,but the “Trust Me” omakase selectionsprepared by Nozawa’s son, Tom, surelymake his father proud. Sushi selectionsfrom $22. (1345 Second Street, +1 310 3933338; sugarfishsushi.com)

FANCY The Fairmont Miramar’spoolside restaurant, FIG (named afterthe famous tree at the front of thehotel), is one of the best in Santa Monicathanks to the inventiveness of chefYousef Ghalaini, who turns his expertiseon local produce, sourced primarilyfrom the twice-weekly farmers’ marketon Arizona Street, into a tantalisingMediterranean menu. Mains $27-45(101 Wilshire Boulevard, +1 310 319 3111;figsantamonica.com)

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SMART FLIERSAER LINGUS flies from Dublinto LOSANGELES four timesper week.

Clockwise fromtop, ready-and-waiting bartendersin Palihouse; thelocal stone fruitsalad at FIG;thirst-quenchingcocktails at TheBungalow, andseaside living atthe Fairmont.

Drink at ...TRENDY The indoor/outdoor bar atThe Bungalow, on the grounds of theFairmont Miramar, draws them in fromall over the city (expect a queue atweekends), where they trade tall talesand selfies over cocktails and beers in afabulous setting, right by the beach and– if you’re there on time – in perfect viewof a scene-stealing sunset. (FairmontMiramar, 101 Wilshire Boulevard,+1 310 899 8530; thebungalowsm.com)

DIVE BAR Hard to imagine authorand legendary barfly Charles Bukowskifitting into a place that serves delicateplates of ahi tuna, but retro 1960s-styleBarkowski (named after the LosAngeles-born author) is suitably dark ifnot really dingy; it does have daily HappyHour and serves about 50 differentkinds of beer. (2819 Pico Boulevard,+1 310 998 0069; barkowski.com)

SPEAKEASY Access the BasementTavern through a door in a parking lotbehind the American Apparel storeon Main Street and step back into theRoaring 1920s. Settle into a cosy booth,order a craftsman cocktail and enjoy thenightly live music – often blues,jazz or bluegrass. This is so LA.(2640 Main Street, +1 310 396 2469;basementtavern.com)

Sleep at ...ECO-CHIC Asian chic blended withsolid craftsmanship is the style at thegorgeous Ambrose boutique hotel.Priding itself on being more sustainablethan other properties in town, it runsa composting programme, recycles75 per cent of its waste and all of itspaper products are produced from 100per cent recycled paper. Rooms from$220 (1255 20th Street, +1 310 315 1555;ambrosehotel.com)

SWANKY The historic 1927 EmbassyHotel has been given a trendy revampand renamed Palihouse, but its publicspaces and 36 huge rooms haveretained much of their SpanishColonial Revival style and charm.Service is exceptional, as you’d expect

from a hotel frequented by LA’strendsetting style merchants.Rooms from $300. (1001 ThirdStreet, +1 310 394 1279;palihousesantamonica.com)

SWOON A sultry, sophisticated classicwith luxurious casita-style bungalows,two supremely elegant main wingsand luscious gardens, the wonderfulFairmont Miramar Hotel andBungalows was the favourite getawayfor Marilyn Monroe, Jean Harlow anda host of the Hollywood elite. Garbolived here for four years: did her “DoNot Disturb” sign read “I want to bealone”? Rooms from $400. (101 WilshireBoulevard, +1 310 576 7777;fairmont.com/santa-monica)

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ONBUSINESS Making travel work for you

Studio CityEmma Sturgess mingles with cast and crew in MediaCityUKand Salford Quays in Greater Manchester.

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ontroversial atits inception butnow a thrivingpart of the UK’sbroadcast and culture

economy, MediaCityUK and theneighbouring Salford Quays makefor a fascinating destination.

Coronation Street and the BBCBreakfast sofa (not as comfortableas it looks) are both here, of course,but so are hundreds of smalleroperations, providing state-of-the-art solutions to the BBC, ITV andindependent production companies.

Served by frequent tramsconnecting to Manchester andthe airport (it’s 15 minutes to thecity centre), this waterfront hubalso houses education (more than

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SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin

toMANCHESTER five times

daily and fromCork up to three

times daily.

The colourful streetssurrounding the soaringMediaCityUK building.

1,500 students are taught at theUniversity of Salford) and digitalenterprise. The Landing, designedas a place for micro-businesses andSMEs to mix it with the big boys,is a particular magnet for gamingcompanies, thanks to its interactivemedia labs.

With all its soaring glass andshiny water (dipped into oftenfor triathlons and watersports),MediaCityUK might seem a bit ...sterile. No chance, says Jonathan“Ozzie” Oswald, head honchoat visiting street food trailer TheHip Hop Chip Shop. “There’s aproper buzz about the place. A realcommunity spirit. People reallylike to get behind the independentbusinesses in the area. Sometimes itfeels like everyone is too nice – I’mconvinced we may be part of somesort of Truman Show!”

Truman or not, the show goeson at MediaCityUK – and youdon’t have to be “the talent” to getinvolved. Theatre at The Lowry,audience tickets at the BBC andexhibitions at the Imperial WarMuseum North all form part of thecultural patchwork of an area thatflourishes on air and off.

SMART MONEYAcross the water from MediaCityUK, you can’t movefor bargains at the Lowry Outlet Mall. It looks andfeels like a conventional shopping centre – with acinema, busy food court, even a gym – but everything’sreduced. The big-name draws are M&S, Clarks, Nextand Gap, but specialist stores, including Antler,Tefal and ProCook, more than justify a targetedbetween-meetings raid for that coveted bit of kit.Events include food and craft markets and chocolatetrails at Easter. (The Quays, Salford, +44 161 848 1850;lowryoutlet.co.uk)


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Clockwise, from top left, Penelope’s Kickin’Chicken salad, the Hip Hop Chip Shop’s boombox

trailer, and their Meat Junkie meal, Love ConquersAll’s rustic decor, one of Damson’s delicious dishes

and its kooky dining room.

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EAT AT…BACKSTAGE A stylish caff for castand crew, Penelope’s Kitchen istucked into the guts of MediaCityUKbut open to all-comers – as long asthey don’t take pictures. Robustlunches, including chilli bowls, falafeland halloumi kebabs, are servedin takeaway boxes and eaten atcommunal tables. For afters: foosball.(The Pie Factory, 101 Broadway, +447866 166 798; penelopesmcr.co.uk)

ELEVATED Indie of ambition Damsonhas great views of the campus (andthe big screen) from its first floordining room, but what’s on the platealso commands attention. Localsuppliers get their day in the sun inmodern European dishes such as seabass tartare with Ashcroft’s beetroot,and the wine list does them justice.(Orange Building, +44 161 751 7020;mediacity.damsonrestaurant.co.uk)

STREET Good-humoured, The HipHop Chip Shop’s street food trailer is inresidence until the end of June, addingbeats and batter to The Greenhouseplaza. Customers are welcome to eattheir Feastie Boys or Ms Fat Buttyboxes, featuring sustainable fish andtriple cooked chips, in the shelter ofnearby bar Love Conquers All. (OutsideThe Greenhouse, Broadway, +44 754958 4695; thehiphopchipshop.com)

LAID-BACK Charming Pokusevski’spulses during the lunchtime rush, buteach scrubbed table also acts as adesk-from-desk and after-work wind-down station for local media bodsin no hurry to catch the tram home.Tapas, pizza and beer on tap makesfor a relaxed atmosphere, and thecoffee’s not bad either. (Unit 2, BridgeHouse, MediaCityUK, +44 161 713 3749;pokusevskis.com)

WHEELYGOODAt Love Conquers All,

revolveMCR offer a full bike service, free

lights and hot drink for the price of a

basic service. revolvemcr.com


Business

From top, teatimeat King Street

Townhouse, roomwith a view at

Hilton Deansgate,Hotel Football

overlooking OldTrafford and acosy corner onThe Ainscow’sroof terrace.

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SLEEP AT ...QUIRKY Stuffed with design detail, theKing Street Townhouse, a short hop awayin Manchester, feels like a cosy tearoom –with beds. The infinity pool on the seventhfloor offers the city’s most sought-afterdip. The hotel team also run the privatemembers’ lounge and screening room,On The 7th, at MediaCityUK. Rooms from£180. (10 Booth Street, Manchester, +44 161667 0707; eclectichotels.co.uk)

SOARING The emblem of newManchester, Beetham Tower is the city’shighest building: the views from theHilton Manchester Deansgate, whichpart-occupies the tower, make this Hiltonthrillingly unique. Catch the express lift fora champagne breakfast at Cloud 23, wheretable 79 offers a spectacular outlook.Rooms from £199. (Beetham Tower, 303Deansgate, +44 161 870 1600; hilton.com)

SPORTY Not far from MediaCityUK,overlooking Old Trafford, Hotel Footballis headed by the stars of ManchesterUnited’s “class of ’92”. Guests canappreciate sleek retro design and tastefulnods to the beautiful game, and a CaféFootball menu masterminded by MichaelWignall. There’s Sky Sports in everybedroom too. Rooms from £76. (99 Sir MattBusby Way, Manchester, +44 161 751 0430;hotelfootball.com)

GREAT VALUE On the border betweenManchester and Salford, The Ainscowoccupies the once-neglected BrownBrothers building, a landmark in theregenerating Chapel Street area. Guestrooms are fitted into the quirks of thespace and come at a keen price for thestyle. If the sun’s out, head to the roofterrace. Rooms from £71. (Trinity Way,Salford, +44 161 827 1650; theainscow.com)


Downtime at ...EXHIBITION Housed in DanielLibeskind’s dramatic building,Imperial War Museum North hasa sobering permanent exhibitionand a series of cleverly curatedtemporary shows. Currentexhibition Fashion on the Ration:1940s Street Style exploreshow fashion adapted during theprivations of 1940s Britain. (TheQuays, Trafford Wharf Road,+44 161 836 4000; iwm.org.uk)

TOURS It takes a bit of advanceplanning, but apply for ticketsto be in the audience or tourthe BBC Studios and you’ll beat the heart of what happensat MediaCityUK. Tours includethe opportunity to make yourown news and weather bulletin,while tickets are available for TVand radio shows and the BBCPhilharmonic Studio.(bbc.co.uk/showsandtours)

ART They called it The Lowryfor a reason; the arts centrehouses an extensive collectionof LS Lowry’s work, from thestalk-like figures for which he wasbest known, to his more difficultand complex portraits. A shortfilm explores his life, inspirationand the challenges of the definingrelationship of his life – with hismother. (Pier 8, Salford Quays,+44 843 208 6000; thelowry.com)

FOOD The Lowry Outlet FoodFestival (June 24-26) takes overthe plaza. Guests this year includeBake Off winner Nadiya Hussainand spicy saucemaker Levi Roots,both giving demonstrations.There will also be appearancesby local chefs, a live musicstage, a plethora of stalls anda kids’ cookery zone. (TheQuays, Salford, +44 161 848 1850;lowryoutlet.co.uk)


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Play at …LAUGHABLE Alongside theatre,The Lowry has another life as acomedy venue, attracting touringtalent to its contemporary spaces.In June, it will host Edinburghaward-winnersMax and Ivan: TheEnd, Sophie Willan talking aboutlife in care, and James Veitch,who spent an enlightening yearresponding to scam emails. (Pier 8,Salford Quays, +44 843 208 6000;thelowry.com)

POPULAR The area’s cherishedpub, The Dockyard, offers monthlylive music and Reboot, a funk, souland disco DJ night (June 18). Thelively house pub quiz will havetwo outings this month, both aspart of a giant cross-city eventfor Manchester Beer Week (June10-19) and in its regular slot on June21. (DockHouse, + 44 161 713 3810;dockyard.pub)

FRESH In summer, The Shacksets up outside at MediaCityUKand things shift into a more relaxedgear. Customers have deck chairs,bean bags and blankets at theirdisposal, with Jamaican-style foodand craft beer and fruit slush todrink. This month, soccer’s Euro2016 will be the focus of (hopefully)sun-drenched attention.

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GRAHAMCORCORAN

FREE BITESMuch-admiredNorthern supermarketBooths

runs freeweekend tastings of wine and locally sourced food

at its next-generationMediaCityUK store. booths.co.uk

Above, work, rest or play outsideMediaCity UK; sun catches the

facade of The Lowry, right,in Salford.

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Former champion jockey Joseph O’Brien, 22, givesus a slice of his new career as a racehorse trainer.

A DAY IN THE LIFE

6am I usually have a cup of coffeebefore going out into the yard to tackup. I’m typically walking around thebarn with the other horses shortly after7am and then we take them throughtheir daily exercise routine up untilaround 8.30am. If it’s a work morning– as in a serious gallop rather than aroutine canter – I could ride three orfour horses before running back intothe house for a quick breakfast, ifI’ve time. I’ve been doing these earlystarts for years and have no idea howold I was when I first got on a horse –probably a few weeks’ old. I was borninto this environment. My mum and dad[Anne-Marie and Aidan O’Brien] werechampion trainers; it’s our way of life.

9am I like to be driving out ofBallydoyle around this time to makethe 30-minute journey to our yard atOwning Hill in Co Kilkenny. There I lookafter a mixture of National Hunt andFlat horses and take them through theirdaily exercise routines. Declarationtime is 10am for the next day’s racing soI go through any declarations we mighthave, check ground conditions anddeclare jockeys.

Noon Entries close at around noon, fivedays before each race meeting, so I gothrough what horses we want to enterfor the weekend and the followingweek.We also might have one or twofor schooling over hurdles or fences,or a few two-year-olds to put through

starting stalls. I’ll have a look at thehorses before they leave to goracing. And if I am racingI would aim to be thereabout one hour beforeour first runner to walkthe track, tack up ourrunners and meet theowners and jockeys.

3pm I have lunch prettylate and it’s usually just aquick 15 minutes – I’ll have acup of tea and a sandwich. Last yearI would’ve been very restricted diet-wise but as a trainer life is much easiermentally and physically.

6pm I usually get home from racingbetween 6pm and 7pm, dependingon where the racing is and how manyrunners we have. If it’s Dundalk wewould not get home until around11.30pm, as the last race is usually 9pm.But generally I’m in bed by 10pm – afterwatching Netflix! I have just finishedwatching Peaky Blinders, which isawesome, and a series called Powerthat’s really good. But I can’t stay uptoo late as I’ve always an early start. Wehave horses running all the time, threeor four days a week. We’ve had multiplewinners this year. The horses arerunning well and they’re healthy andlong may that last. My job is seven daysa week but we usually go on holiday fora week in November – that’s my nextday off! But I love what I do.

From above,Peaky Blinders,a fun distractionwhen it’s timeto relax for theevening; race dayexcitement atThe Curragh;fetlocks flowing.

CAREER GOLD I was lucky enoughto win the Irish Derby in 2012 and2014 on the champion three-year-oldsand dual Derby winners Camelot andAustralia. In addition to the Dubai DutyFree Irish Derby Festival (June 24-26),another great racing weekend is therecently introduced Longines IrishChampions Weekend at Leopardstownand the Curragh (September 10-11),where the best horses from all overEurope travel to compete at the highestlevel. These two weekends are some ofthe most exciting racing festivals to befound anywhere in the world.

IF YOU’RE AT THE CURRAGH ... The NationalStud in Co Kildare is a lovely place to visit and gives agreat insight into Ireland’s racing heritage.

THERACES

Tickets to the DubaiDuty Free Irish Derby

taking place on June 25 atThe Curragh racecourse

are available to buyat curragh.ie

Creating linksM&A corporate deals

Payzone Group

Eversheds advised PayzoneGroup on the sale of the entireissued share capital of PayzoneIreland Limited to SemeralLimited.

Leanort Limited

Eversheds advised the ownersof the Xtratherm Group on itsrecent successful sale toUnilin B.V.

Cairn Homes

Eversheds advised Cairn Homeson its €105m acquisition ofArgentum Property.

Huawei

Eversheds advised Huawei onthe acquisition of the telecomssoftware and technologybusiness of Amartus.

Venn Life SciencesHoldings Plc

Eversheds acted for Venn LifeSciences in the acquisition ofKinesis Pharma BV.

Musgrave Group

Eversheds advised Musgraveon its acquisition of thefoodservice business, AlliedFoods Limited.

System Dynamics Group

Eversheds representedSystem Dynamics Groupin the sale of SystemDynamics to Deloitte.

Cairn Homes

Eversheds advised CairnHomes, on their acquisition, inconjunction with Lone Star, ofProject Clear, a Dublin-basedloans portfolio worth €503m.

©Eversheds Ireland is a member of Eversheds International Limited.

eversheds.ie

Tetrarch Capital

Eversheds has acted forTetrarch on a number ofhotel acquisitions such asCitywest Hotel, Conference &Event Centre, Dawson Hotel,Killashee Hotel, Mount JulietHotel and Mount WolseleyHotel, Spa & Golf Resort.

Gerard RyanPartner, Head of Corporate & Commercial+353 1 6644 [email protected]

Business


EVENT An intensive rebootfor senior leaders and businessowners, Below the Line’sExecutive Leadership Retreat

(June 20-22; btleadership.com) aims to helpbusiness folk tap intotheir potential and getcreative juices flowing.Best of all, it takesplace in Delphi Valley

in Leenane, Co Galway, adestination sure to inspire.

ACCESSORY With securecompartments for laptops,cameras and tablets, and asturdy water-repellent exterior,Lowepro’s streetwear-inspiredcollection StreetLine (prices startfrom $99, lowepro.co.uk) is the idealcarry-on for short-haul trips. Perfectfor the urban explorer.

STAY “Work hard and play hard”should be the motto of Dubrovnik’sthree-star Hotel Lero (14 Ul. IvaVojnovica), a stroll away fromscenic Bellevue Beach and a20-minute walk to the city’s historiccentre. Free Wi-Fi and spaciousrooms with sea views are par forthe course and the hotel can evenorganise a bespoke tour of the cityif you want to impress your clients.For great holiday packages, visitholidayswithaerlingus.com.

GADGET Salt water-safe and dust proof,the Sony WS413 Walkman (4GB from€99/8GB from €119; sony.ie) will survive theelements on your travels – even laps of thepool after a tough day of meetings.Wirelessand with a secure fit, there’s no need toworry about it slipping while you work out.

BUSINESSTRAVELHOT LISTLisa Hughes selects go-to gadgets,executive events and best stays.

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EVENT Inspirefest (Bord Gáis EnergyTheatre, Dublin, June 30 to July 2;inspirefest.com) is back with the latest viewson technology, science, design and the arts.This year’s line-up includes Jules Coleman,co-founder of Hassle.com; equality advocateSinead Burke and JudithWilliams, globalhead of diversity at Dropbox.

APP CityButler city guidesare packed with handpickedrecommendations ofhotels, restaurants, shops and morebut the app’s star feature is that youcan use it to book anything, from localSIM cards to transport or anythingelse you might need during yourstay. Pretty handy.Download forfree in the AppStore or trythe desktopversion atcitybutler.co.

6BOOK Already abestseller, former senioradvisor for innovation toHillary Clinton, Alec Rosshas penned The Industriesof the Future (Simon &Schuster) an engrossingguide to what’s next for theworld, ranging from robotsto cybersecurity, the nextSilicon Valley and the trendsthat will emerge in the nextten years. A must-read forbusinesspeople acrossall sectors.

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8CHECK IN Planning a summer event inLondon? Check out the Park Plaza CountyHall (1 Addington Street, +44 844 415 6760;parkplaza.com). As well as the ExecutiveLounge for working on the go, the UrbanTerrace is open for BBQs and informalcorporate events until September.

7

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Visit us on www.dornangroup.com

Interested in being part of our winning team:www.dornangroup.com/careers

Dornan is an Irish owned, International engineering and contracting company, specialisingin the provision of;

· Mechanical· Electrical· Instrumentation Services

We have extensive experience across a wide range of construction sectors.

Our growth is primarily driven by repeat business from our clients, demonstrating theirconfidence in Dornan to deliver projects where Safety and Quality are the priority.

Building tomorrow’s infrastructure

for our global clients

Business


MIDNIGHT TRYSTSDon’t have time to visit Rome’ssites during the day, or simplycan’t stick the heat and the

crowds? The VaticanMuseumsopen their doors every Fridaynight fromMay to October

(except for August), while a liveorchestra performsmusicalmasterpieces to accompany

you around the Sistine Chapel,the Pontifical Villas and all theVatican’s treasures. A rite ofpassage for Romans before

security got tight, you can nowlegally sneak into the Colosseumunder cover of dark with guidedtours on Monday, Thursday,Friday and Saturday nights.

WHAT&WHERE Located in thecity’s most desirable neighbourhood,Campo Marzio, The First LuxuryArt Hotel merges history withsimple sophistication, just steps fromRome’s must-see monuments. (Viadel Vantaggio, +39 06 4561 7070;thefirsthotel.com)

THE BUSINESS From its 19th-century foundation, The First has beenrevamped into an artistic sanctuarythat fuses luxurious hospitality with theneighbourhood’s architectural charm.Each of the rooms have been individuallycurated by contemporary Italian artists,with hand-selected wall art, furnishingsand fabrics to give every space a senseof warmth and personality, while floor-to-ceiling marble bathrooms, slick TVsand iPad/iPod docking stations giverooms a contemporary sheen.

Only two streets in from theweaving Tiber River, the locale isalso home to some of Rome’s finestboutiques and most quintessentialcafés. Take to the hotel’s panoramicrooftop patio and bar to watch the sunset over the city’s magnificent skyline asthe daily tourist humdrum recedes intocool, calm night. Rooms from €465.

DOWNTIME Simply walking in Romeis a history lesson in itself, with ancientstructures, museums and preservedartwork on every street. Campo Marziois home to the Aurelian northerncity gates at Piazza del Popolo, andincludes theMausoleum of AugustusCaesar, Basilica of Santa Maria delPopolo, the Spanish Steps and CastelSant’Angelo within its boundaries. Itis also within a 15-minute walk of thePantheon. If you need to rest yourfeet, pick a café on a hectic streetand watch the fashion-forward localsbreeze by, or pack a picnic and headfor Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome’slargest public park with panoramicviews over the city.

ROMANHOLIDAYLauren Heskin samples the sweet lifeat The First Luxury Art Hotel in Rome.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Rome 12 times per week. Guests travelling from Rome can travel onwards to New York,Boston, Chicago or Los Angeles, with the benefit of pre-clearance of US customs and border protection at Dublin airport.

Hotel

DINNER BUZZ Its wine list full ofsurprises, a casual yet comfortableatmosphere – and location just aroundthe corner from the First Luxury ArtHotel – Ristorante Ad Hoc is a coolspot to unwind with colleagues andclients after hours. With plenty ofRoman flamboyancy on display –minus the kitsch – Ad Hoc’s kitchencreates a perfect taste of Italy and, asclichéd as it may sound, the tiramisu isan absolute must. (Via di Ripetta,+39 06 323 3040, ristoranteadhoc.com)

Business


1 Build partnershipsWhenwe started the businessback in 2010 we identified

INM [the media group] and AerLingus as key partners to thebusiness. We worked hard atbuilding both the commercial andpersonal relationships. In 2011 weset up the holidays programmefor Aer Lingus under the brandHolidays with Aer Lingus; weretained the tender for that brandin 2014. In 2013, INM invested inour business and they now own30 per cent. Focusing on thosetwo key partnerships has provedsuccessful for the business.

2 It takes longer than youthinkWhen we startedin 2010, we assumed that

we’d break even in two years andsell 10,000 holidays in year one.That didn’t happen and it didn’thappen in 2011 or 2012 either. Itwas 2013 before we broke evenand it was that same year thatthe brand started to becomerecognised. So even though wewere part of the High PotentialStart-Up programme withEnterprise Ireland, it still tookway longer than we expected toget that breakthrough for thebusiness and the brand.

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

3Take your brain for awalk or a swim Everysingle day presents

challenges and I have learntthat I come up with the bestsolutions away from my desk.So take your brain for a walk;give yourself some time tothink of solutions in a differentenvironment. I swim with theAer Lingus Masters SwimmingClub and some of my best ideascome when I’m ploughing up anddown the pool. Then all I need isa waterproof pen and paper!4 Stick to the knitting

Sometimes saying “no” isthe right decision. Looking

at new opportunities is reallyimportant but so too is keepinga focus on the core companygoals. We got distracted at timesover the last five years by lookingfor the “next big thing”. Thosedistractions cost time and moneyand consume valuable resources.5 Take a holiday You’d

expect me to say thisgiven that I run a holiday

company, but I take my holidaysand I encourage all my team to dolikewise. We all work longer days,given our connectedness,so time off and downtime arereally important.6 High challenge – high

supportWe’ve got anethos in the business of

“high challenge – high support”.This means we are demandingin terms of the pace of work,standards and results butwe’re also very good in termsof providing the resources toachieve our objectives. Thiscarries over to when anyone hassomething going on outsideof work; we do all we can toprovide as much care, supportand back-up where we can andwhere it’s appropriate.

PAUL HACKETT is the CEO and co-founder ofClickandGo.com, Ireland’s fastest growing travelcompany, which also powers Holidays with Aer Lingus,the Aer Lingus holidays brand. Founded in 2010, thecompany employs 35 staff in its office in Dublin.

DESTINATION Barcelona has tobe top of my list of cities for doingbusiness. You can work all day andthen get to enjoy the city in theevening. It’s got a great mix of cityand beach and the sun shines formore than 300 days of the year.

Paul’sSMARTCITY

SLEEP AT The four-star AxelHotel & Urban Spa is a fun hotelwith a nice pool and spa. It’s only ashort walk to Plaça Catalunya andLas Ramblas. In the immediate areathere are plenty of restaurants andbars, and the metro is just a shortwalk from the hotel. axelhotels.comor holidayswithaerlingus.com

EAT AT Disfrutar from the teamwho worked at elBulli. It’s locatedin front of the Ninot Market inEixample, a short walk from theAxel. It opened in December 2015and has won awards for its food andinterior design, both of which arestunning. disfrutarbarcelona.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin toBarcelona twice daily, and fromCork four times per week.

Make your next vacation in Ireland extraordinary in a Unique Holiday HomeExperience exclusive luxury self-catering breaks in beautiful private homes.

www.uniqueirishhomes.ie

UNIQUE IRISH HOMES

PrivateSafe Deposit BoxesFrom Less Than

Per Week!C4

Safe Deposit Box Rental in Ireland & ScotlandIreland - Tel:(01) 254 7900 • www.MerrionVaults.ie Scotland - Tel:0141 3431305 • www.GlasgowVaults.co.uk

www.storyoftheirish.ie

Open from 10:30 - 7:00pm with Shows Every Hour.Duration 60 Minutes

A GUIDED TOUR THROUGH 10,000 YEARS OF IRISH HISTORY

Celtic Gods will take you on a journey from 8,000 BC topresent day in Ireland’s only cinematic theatre.

Experience their cultural triumphs, feel their defiance asthey fight against annihilation and watch them rise up

from their cultural ashes.Opposite Hop on/off Bus Stop

Smithfield, Dublin 7E: [email protected]: +353 (0) 1 873 3537

InflightSit back, relax and letAer Lingus look afteryour inflight comfortand entertainment.Enjoy delicious food,the latest movies, a widerange of shopping andnews from Aer Lingus.

Zoolander

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Flying with Aer Lingus

126Welcome aboard

127 Your comfort and safety

140 Flight Connections

144 Our Route Networks

148 Connecting to Wi-Fi

Inflight Entertainment

130 Movies to North America

131 Movies from North America

132 Our Classic Movie Selection

135 Television On Demand

138 Radio On Demand

139 Music On Demand


Passengerswith wheelchairrequirementsIf you require a wheelchairto help you reach or departfrom the plane, then we’rehere to help you. Yourcomfort and safety are ourpriority, so please let usknow at least 48 hours inadvance and we will lookafter you. When contactingus you will need yourbooking reference number.

In touch withAer LingusIf you are availing of Wi-Fion your flight today, why notlet us know what you’re upto on board and where youare going. Share your photosif you’d like, because wewould love to hear fromyou on Facebook, Twitterand YouTube.

Why not try speakinga few words of the nativelanguage while youare visiting Ireland!

Fáilte Welcome

Dia dhuit Hello

Slán go fóill Goodbye

...is ainm dom My name is...

Conas atá tú? How are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good

Sláinte! Cheers

Go raibh maith agat Thank you

Gabh mo leithscéal Excuse me

Cara Friend

Take a photo and postit to our Facebook page.Let us know how you’reenjoying your flight.

Chat to us on Twitterwhere you’ll also find thelatest flight information.

View our videos ofmilestone events,festivals, sponsorshipsand campaigns.

WelcomeaboardFlying with Aer Lingus meansyou will experience excellentcustomer service, comfort and, ofcourse, safety. There’s plenty foryou to enjoy on board and, on thefollowing pages, you will discoverhow we’ll be taking care of you.After all, we’re here to help youmake the most of your flight.If you have any special requests,be sure to let us know.

Assistance Contact Details

[email protected]

Ireland (0818) 365 01109:00–17:00Mon–Fri10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays

UK (0871) 718 20 21Europe +353 1 886 8333USA (516) 622 4222

What cities doAer Lingus fly toand connect to?See page 144 forfull route maps


To use your mobile phoneand all other portableelectronic devices duringtaxi, take-off or landing,they must be switched to‘flight mode’ or the ‘flightsafe’ setting.

If you wish to use your phoneduring your flight, please makesure you select flight safe modebefore your phone is powered off.Please note, if your device does nothave a flight safe mode it maynot be used on your flight.

After landing and only whencrew have advised that it is safe todo so, you are permitted to use yourmobile phone, provided it is withineasy reach. You must remain seatedwith your seatbelt fastened andfollow the instructions of thecabin crew.

Your comfortand safetyWhen you fly with us, you want to knowthat we’re looking after your comfortand safety at all times. We are. It isour number one priority and our creware trained to ensure you reach yourdestination as relaxed as you need to be.In return, we ask for your attention whenit comes to safety announcements andknowing when, and how, to turn on yourmobile, smartphone or portable device.

Are you ready fortake-off and landing?

Is your mobile phone and/or other portable electronicdevice in ’flight mode’?

Is your seatback fully upright?

Is your armrest down?

Is your tabletop stowed?

Have you stored your bags inthe overhead locker or underthe seat in front of you?

Airplane Mode

ON

You can use portableelectronic equipmenton flights but somedevices can interferewith aircraft equipment,creating potential safetyrisks. Knowing how toset up your device forflight use and whento switch it on andoff are therefore veryimportant. Please notethat certain devices maynot be used.

Devices permittedat any time

Devices powered by micro

battery cells and/or by solar cells;

hearing aids (including digital

devices); pagers (receivers only);

heart pacemakers.

Devices permittedin flight only*

Laptops, portable CD-players,

Mini-disk players, GPS handheld

receivers, electric shavers and

electronic toys. For the comfort

of other passengers, audio

devices should be used with a

headset. If using laptops inflight

please select flight safe mode

before takeoff.

*Not permitted during taxi/take-off/initial climb/approach/landing.

Devices prohibitedat all times

Devices transmitting radio

frequency intentionally such

as walkie-talkies, remote

controlled toys;wireless

computer equipment (eg

mouse, keyboard); PC printers,

DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk

Recorders in the recording

mode; digital camcorders when

using CD write facility; portable

stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/

FM); TV receivers; telemetric

equipment; peripheral devices

for handheld computer games

(eg supplementary power packs

connected by cable); wireless

LAN (WLAN).**

**Laptops with built-in WLAN(eg Centrino) may be used duringflight, provided the WLAN optionis turned off and subject to therestrictions associated with theuse of laptops detailed above.

To avail of our Wi-Fiand Mobile Network,on our A330 aircraft,

devices must be switchedoff flight mode – onceour crew advise it is

safe to do so.


Here are a few tipsto make your journeymore comfortable and

reduce jet lag.

KEEP MOVINGOn longer flights particularly, try to

change your sitting position regularlyand avoid crossing your legs. Takea walk in the cabin once the seatbelt sign is off as this will get your

circulation going and refresh your legs.

EAR CARECabin pressure changes can be

painful, particularly if you have a cold,sinusitis or existing ear problems. If youexperience these problems during theflight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

DRINK UPKeep yourself hydrated throughoutthe flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CAREIf you are a regular contact lens

wearer, it is a good idea to bring yourglasses with you in case your eyes

feel dryer than usual.

TIME ZONESHelp beat jet lag by setting yourwatch to your destination’s time

when you arrive on board. This willhelp you adjust to the new time

zone faster.

Please pay attention to the cabin crew whilethey demonstrate the use of safety equipmentbefore take off, and we strongly recommendthat you read the safety instruction card inthe seat pocket in front of you.

In linewith Irish Government regulations,Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electroniccigarettes policy on board. These are notpermitted in any part of the cabin.

For your Safety

Airbus 319

Fógra Sábháilteacht

Pour votre Sécurité

Für ihre Sicherheit

Para su Seguridad

Per la vostra Sicurezza

Please do not remove from Aircraft

Airplane ModeON

Airplane ModeON


Airplane ModeON


Airplane Mode

ON

Airplane Mode

ON

For your Safety

Airbus 330-200

Fógra SábháilteachtPour votre SécuritéFür ihre SicherheitPara su Seguridad

Per la vostra SicurezzaSäkerhet ombordSikkerhet om bordSikkerhed om bord

Your comfortand safetyA safe flight for everyoneIt is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyoneon board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Please pay attention to instructionsgiven to you by the cabin crew.

Do not consume any alcohol broughtonto the aircraft by you or anotherpassenger (including Duty Free alcoholpurchased from Boutique). It is illegalto do so.

Do not interrupt cabin crew whilethey carry out their duties and do notinterfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear thatAer Lingus may refuse to allow apassenger on board if it is thoughtthat too much alcohol has beenconsumed.

Similarly, behaviour or languagetowards other passengersor crew members that is deemedto be threatening or abusivewill not be tolerated.


Kids

Action

Action

Drama Sci-Fi

DocumentaryComedy Drama

Room117minsAmother and son‘s lasthope of escaping theirkidnapper. Stars BrieLarson, William HMacy,Joan Allen

Pride andPrejudice andZombies108minsThe quest of lovethrough an outbreak ofa deadly virus. Stars LilyJames, Lena Headey

Kung FuPanda 385minsPomust face twohugely epic, butdifferent threats.Stars Jack Black, BryanCranston, Lucy Liu

Dad‘s Army100minsA platoon deal witha new journalist anda German spy. StarsCatherine Zeta-Jones,Toby Jones, Bill Nighy

The 5th Wave113minsThe tale of a bravewomanwho facesextraterrestrials. StarsChloë GraceMoretz,Liev Schreiber, MaikaMonroe

Gods of Egypt127minsRival gods competein an epic battle tosave Egypt. StarsGerard Butler, NikolajCoster-Waldau,Brenton Thwaites

45 Years93minsA letter from the pastshadows a weddinganniversary. StarsCharlotte Rampling,Tom Courtenay,Geraldine James

PeggyGuggenheim:Art Addict96minsA portrait of a patron ofthe arts extraordinaire.Stars Peggy Guggenheim,Marina Abramovic

El Americano:The Movie98minsCuco sets off on anadventure to defendhis family. Stars EdwardJames Olmos, RicoRodriguez

EddieThe Eagle105minsEddie‘s journey tobecome Britain’s firstOlympic ski-jumper.Stars Hugh Jackman,ChristopherWalken

Youth124minsA retired orchestraconductor receives agreat invitation. StarsMichael Caine, HarveyKeitel, Rachel Weisz

Deadpool 106 mins

WadeWilson is a former Special Forces operative who now works asa mercenary. His world comes crashing down when evil scientist Ajaxtortures, disfigures and transforms him into Deadpool. Deadpool useshis new skills to hunt down the man who nearly destroyed his life.Stars Ryan Reynolds, Morena Baccarin and Ed Skrein.

Aer Lingus presents a variety ofrecently released movies for yourenjoyment on board your flightto North America. Welcome tothe international multiplex cinemain the sky!

MoviesFlights toNorth America

R

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General

Parental Guidance

Parental GuidanceNot suitable forchildren under 13.

RestrictedNot suitable forchildren under 18.

Available inEnglishFrançaisDeutschItalianoEspañol

Closed Caption English

G

PG

PG13

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FR

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CCEN

PG13 PG13

EN

EN ES

PG13 PG13

EN CCEN

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KidsDrama

Action Comedy

Comedy

Jane Gota Gun97minsA woman tries to saveher husband from amurderous gang. StarsNatalie Portman, EwanMcGregor, Joel Edgerton

The Runner89minsA congressmanhas personal andprofessional troubles.Stars Nicolas Cage, SarahPaulson, Connie Nielsen

A Perfect Day106minsA group of aid workerswork to resolve a crisis.Stars Benicio Del Toro,Tim Robbins, OlgaKurylenko

How tobe Single109minsNew York is full oflonely hearts seekingthe right match. StarsRebel Wilson, AlisonBrie, Dakota Johnson

Hail Caesar!106minsThe life of a studiofixer in Hollywood’sGolden Age. StarsJosh Brolin, GeorgeClooney, ScarlettJohansson

The Choice110minsA relationship that istested by life‘s definingevents. Stars BenjaminWalker, Teresa Palmer,Maggie Grace

TheDressmaker118mins

A glamorous womanreturns to her smalltown in Australia. StarsKateWinslet, LiamHemsworth

Alvin and theChipmunks:The Road Chip92minsChipmunks fearthe future as Davecontemplates marriage.Stars Jason Lee

Zootopia108minsThe animals must worktogether to uncover aconspiracy. Stars JasonBateman, GinniferGoodwin, Idris Elba

Londonhas Fallen99minsThere is a plot to kill theworld's most powerfulleaders. Stars GerardButler, Morgan Freeman,Aaron Eckhart

Triple 9115minsA gang of criminalsand a bunch of corruptcops plan a murder and aheist. Stars Casey Affleck,Chiwetel Ejiofor, AnthonyMackie

Zoolander 2 102 mins

Former models Derek Zoolander and Hansel find themselves thrust backinto the spotlight after living in seclusion for years. Invited to a majorfashion event in Rome, the estranged friends are surprised to see howmuch the business has changed. Derek and Hansel are lured back intomodeling again, in Rome, where they find themselves the target of asinister conspiracy. Stars Ben Stiller, Penelope Cruz and OwenWilson

MoviesFlights fromNorth AmericaAer Lingus presents a variety ofrecently released movies for yourenjoyment on board your flightfrom North America. Welcome tothe international multiplex cinemain the sky!

PG13PG13 R R

EN FR DE IT ES

EN DE ITEN FR DE ESEN FR DE EN FR ES

PG PGRR

EN FR DE

PG13

EN DE EN FR

PG13

RR

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

General

Parental Guidance

Parental GuidanceNot suitable forchildren under 13.

RestrictedNot suitable forchildren under 18.

Available inEnglishFrançaisDeutschItalianoEspañol

Closed Caption English

G

PG

PG13

R

EN

FR

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IT

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CCEN

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Irish Shorts and Features

Our ClassicMovie Selection

We also provide a selection ofclassic movies available on flightsto and from North America.Timeless favourites such asMichael Collins and Raging Bullare available, as well as a selectionof Irish short films and features.

A TerribleHullabaloo9minsStars SeanFitzgerald

AnBronntanas110minsStars MichelleBeamish, CharlotteBradley

Cloudlands10mins

Graniteand Chalk12minsStars Aoife Duffin,Liam Carney

Kiss Kiss,Bang Bang103minsStars RobertDowney Jr, ValKilmer

EN FR DE IT ES

Love &Other Drugs112minsStars JakeGyllenhaal,Anne Hathaway

EN FR DE IT ES

The Heat117minsStars SandraBullock, MelissaMcCarthy,Demián Bichir

EN EN EN EN

I Am Jesus7minsStars SteveWilson,Paul Buckland,JosephMoylan

EN

PG13 PG13

Goodfellas146minsStars RobertDe Niro, RayLiotta, Joe Pesci,Lorraine Bracco

RRR Gran Torino116minsStars ClintEastwood, BeeVang, ChristopherCarley, Ahney Her

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13Juno96minsStars Ellen Page,Michael Cera,Jennifer Garner,Jason Bateman

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13Jimmy’sHall109minsStars BarryWard,Simone Kirby,Andrew Scott

EN

Bride Wars89minsStars Kate Hudson,Anne Hathaway,Candice Bergen

EN DE IT EN FR DE IT ES

RRMichaelCollins133minsStars LiamNeeson, JuliaRoberts

EN

Mr. Yeatsand theBeastly Coins12minsStars Moe Dunford,Donal Courtney

EN

The Girlwith theMechanicalMaiden15minsStars DominicWest

EN

You‘reUgly Too81minsStars Aidan Gillen,Lauren Kinsella,SimonMcQuaid

EN

WeddingCrashers119minsStars OwenWilson, VinceVaughn

EN FR DE IT ES

Birdman119minsStars MichaelKeaton, ZachGalifianakis,Edward Norton

EN FR DE IT ES EN FR DE IT ES

RHorribleBosses98minsStars JasonBateman, KevinSpacey

The Hobbit:The Battleof the FiveArmies144minsStars IanMcKellen

PG13

EN FR DE IT ES

The Hobbit:Desolationof Smaug161minsStars MartinFreeman

PG13

EN FR DE IT ES

Robots91minsStars PaulaAbdul, Halle Berry,Lucille Bliss, TerryBradshaw

The BookThief131minsStars GeoffreyRush, EmilyWatson

TheDeparted151minsStars LeonardoDiCaprio, MattDamon

PG13

EN FR DE IT ES EN FR DE IT ES EN FR DE IT ES

The Wolf ofWall Street180minsStars LeonardoDiCaprio, MargotRobbie

R

R R

R R R

EN FR DE IT ES

Taxi Driver113minsStars RobertDeNiro, JodieFoster, SybilShepard

EN FR DE

R

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13The Rocker102minsStars ChristinaApplegate,RainnWilson

EN FR DE IT ES

I AmLegend101minsStars Will Smith,Alice Braga,Charlie Tahan

EN FR DE IT ES

Ice Age:Dawn of theDinosaurs94minsStars Simon Pegg,Queen Latifah

PG

EN FR DE

Raging Bull129minsStars RobertDe Niro, CathyMoriarty, Joe Pesci,Frank Vincent

R R R Sunshine107minsStars CillianMurphy, MichelleYeoh, Troy Garity,Rose Byrne

EN FR DE IT ESEN FR DE IT ES

R

PG13 PG13 PG13 PG13

PG PG13

PG


Business Documentary

Comedy Drama

Lifestyle

News & Events

Sport

Kids

KC Undercover

This month Bloomberg‘s Inside, investigatesChevron and its global business. Also fromBloomberg is Studio 1.0, where host EmilyChang sits down with Dropbox‘s CEO andco-founder Drew Houston and Cities AndClimate Changewhich gives an exclusivetalk with OECD Secretary-General AngelGurria and UN Special Envoy for Cities andClimate Change. Meanwhile, EuroNewsbring us Business Planet, Real Economyand Urban Visions – all of which cast a coldeye over economics, technology and energydevelopments.

On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows.Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new showson TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama,Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes.

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010,and has become somewhat of a culture-defining series. Now, with four consecutiveEmmy Awards for Outstanding ComedySeries and a Golden Globe for Best ComedyTV Series,Modern Family returns withSeason 6. Those with a more anarchic senseof humour might appreciate a new episodeofWilfred. Also on board are episodes ofNew Girl, The Big Bang Theory, SiliconValley and Last Man Standing.

Crossroads is a documentary series thatrevels in folksy transports and the spirit thatlives within them. Also available on boardare How Do They Do it?, which looks intohow screws, marmalade and printed dressesare made, and National Geographic‘s Access360 World heritage, which features MountFuji and its transition from a spiritual journeyto an adventure sport attraction. For moreon Ireland and Irish culture tune into SugarCrash, that looks into Ireland's sugar habitsandMen In Black, that follows the highs andlows of life as a man behind the whistle.

As we witness a golden age in TV drama,Aer Lingus offers engaging choices withboxsets of True Detective, Treme and TheWalking Dead on offer, as well as episodesfrom the highly acclaimed series, TheWireand new episodes of, Gotham, The Sopranosand Bones.

Step into the world of food with AmericanFood Battle andMade In Italy with SilviaColloca. Find out the secrets behind the Inuittribe‘s customary dish.

For tips on improving your health watch Cook,Eat, Burnwhere Donal Skehan shares healthyrecipes and embarks on adventure sports.

For fans of culture and art Culturefox TV offersa guide to Irish culture and events, whilst CityChic documents certain cities and their culture,art and fashion – this week focuses on London.

In addition to our extensive selection of TVshows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weeklynews updates, as well as updates from theworld of sport.

Sports fans shouldn‘t miss Countdown toRio, which takes a look at everything that youneed to know about the Olympic Games.

Also on board areMaradonna (a must-watch for football fans!), The Contendersand HSBC: GolfingWorld 2016, foreverything golf-related.

Kids will surely enjoy KC Undercover, asKC tries to convince her parents that herbrother, Ernie, is ready to become a spy. Kidsmay also enjoy charming animated series FlipFlap or an imaginative episode of Rocka-ByeIsland, Randy Cunningham: 9th Grade Ninjaor Learn To Draw.

Studio 1.0

Silicon ValleyMaradonna

Cook, Eat, BurnSugar Crash

Television On Demand


Drama Boxsets

The second season of TrueDetective began airing in June2015 on the HBO network.Season two comprises eightepisodes and there are a lot ofbig names in this season’s cast,with a principal cast of ColinFarrell, Rachel McAdams,Vince Vaughn, Taylor Kitschand Kelly Reilly.

Colin Farrell is Ray Velcoro, acompromised detective in theall-industrial City of Vinci, LACounty. Vince Vaughn playsFrank Semyon, a criminal and

entrepreneur in danger oflosing his life’s work, whilehis wife and closest ally(Kelly Reilly), struggles withhis choices and her own.

Rachel McAdams is AniBezzerides, a Ventura CountySheriff’s detective often at oddswith the system she serves,while Taylor Kitsch plays PaulWoodrugh, a war veteran andmotorcycle cop.

Season two takes place inCalifornia and follows theinterweaving stories of the

officers from three cooperatingpolice departments.

A bizarre murder bringstogether three law-enforce-ment officers and a careercriminal, each of whommustnavigate a web of conspiracyand betrayal.

Ultimately season 2 of TrueDetective offers immensedrama as we see a joining ofthree law enforcement groups,multiple criminal collusions,and billions of dollars.

Tremewas created by DavidSimon, creator of The Wireand Generation Kill and EricOvermyer, writer-producer ofHomicide and Law & Order.

Treme is set in post-KatrinaNew Orleans and documentsthe struggles of a diverse groupof residents as they rebuild theirlives and their city.

Treme takes its title fromthe name of one of the city‘soldest neighbourhoods, ahistorically important sourceof African-American musicand culture. The large castof Treme includes Wendell

Pierce, Khandi Alexander, RobBrown, Steve Zahn, Kim Dickens,Melissa Leo, Lucia Micarelli,Michiel Huisman, David Morse,India Ennenga and Jon Seda.

The story consists of a diversegroup of residents strugglingto rebuild New Orleans in themonths following HurricaneKatrina.

Life in New Orleans is gettingbetter, but it‘s not happeningfast enough to keep residentsfrom wondering whetherthings would be easier orbetter elsewhere. Crime is onthe rise in New Orleans and

the ability of whether the policedepartment can keep up withthe rise in crime is questionable.What keeps the city afloatthrough all of this is its culture.

Mardi Gras Indian chief AlbertLambreaux (Clarke Peters) issewing in preparation for MardiGras. The social aid and pleasureclubs are getting ready to hitthe streets in their colourful,fast step finery. And thoseloveable rogues, Davis McAlary(Steve Zahn) and AntoineBatiste (Wendell Pierce) havecooked up a new set of schemeson and off the bandstand.

TheWalking Dead is anAmerican horror–dramatelevision series. The sixthseason premiered on in October2015 comprising of 16 episodes.

Season six was developed fortelevision by Frank Darabont.It is based on the eponymousseries of comic books byRobert Kirkman, Tony Moore,and Charlie Adlard.

In the first part of the season wesee Rick and his group leadingthe Alexandria communitythrough a series of crises.

These include the threat of alarge herd of walkers and anattack by dangerous scavengersknown as the Wolves.

The second half of season6 involves Rick and hiscompanions discovering moresurvivor communities. Theymake allies of the agrarianHilltop colony and adversariesof the Saviours, which are ledby the ruthless Negan.

With no hope of safety inAlexandria, Rick and his bandof survivors soon discover alarger world beyond whatthey understood it to be.

In this new reality, thereare new dangers, newopportunities and newcomplexities to face.

To claim their place in thisnewfound landscape, thegroup must become thethreat themselves. This meansbecoming as terrifying as anyof the adversaries they'veencountered.

Season six is notable forintroducing some eminentcomic characters such as Heath,Denise Cloyd, Scott, Dwight,Paul ‘Jesus‘ Rovia, Gregory,and Negan.

True Detective SEASON 2

Treme SEASON 4

TheWalking Dead SEASON 6

TheWalking Deadis a TV series which

follows a group tryingto survive a zombie

apocalypse

True Detectiveis a gritty Americananthology crimedrama televisionseries created byNic Pizzolatto

Treme depictsthe struggles of

NewOrleans residentsrebuilding their lives

post-Katrina

OURTOP TVCHOICE

Television On Demand


The EoghanMcDermott ShowAbove average radio…pop culture, cranialacrobatics and he’ll eventhrow in the odd song.

Radio Nova:Marty Miller60 minutes of great guitarmusic on board yourAer Lingus flight today.Presented by Marty Miller.

Documentary on OneIn 1975, Fran O’Toolewas killed in the MiamiShowband Massacre.In 1968, Mick Meaneydreamed of breaking theworld record for beingburied alive.

Best of MoncrieffMoncrieff is a lively mixof funny, engaging andirreverent issues.

CL ASSIC AL INDIE

KIDS POETRY

POP ROCK TALK R ADIO

POP

IRISH

Blue of the NightThe Blue of the Night is amusical journey spanningcenturies, genres andsoundscapes. Presentedby Carl Corcoran.

Fitzpatrick HotelsAn hour long compilationof songs that will suit anymusic taste. Brought toyou by The FitzpatrickHotel Group USA.

TXFM‘s Indie HitsTXFM brings us the bestindie hits of the moment,featuring artists such asColdplay, Grimes and Blur.

Ceol na nGaelA traditional musicprogramme presentedby Seán Ó hÉanaigh.Ceol traidisiúnta agusceol tíre den scoth.

Irish Pulse BroadcastIrish Pulse brings yousome of the most popularhits in Ireland right now.Listen out for Bressie,Kodaline and many more!

Happy DaysJoin Emma O’Driscoll fora fun packed show withstories, songs and fungames.

Irish Poetry CornerBrian Munn selectsand reads verses fromrenowned Irish poets.

Cooper & Luke –The Big Breakfast 98fmJoin Copper and Luke onboard your Aer Lingusflight for music and fun.

Pop ChartsPop Charts features themost up-to-the-minutepop hits! Listen to songsby Omi and Kodaline.

Louise McSharryAll your future favouritesin one place, from hip hopto rock and roll. Presentedby Louise McSharry.

RadioOn DemandOn Demand Radioallows you to selectand view yourfavourite radioshows.

EASY LISTENING

Kodaline have released theirhighly anticipated second albumComing up for Air. The Irish grouphave experimented more with theirsound on this album and have createdhits such as Honest and The One.

Aer Lingus are proud supporters ofKodaline, flying the band across ourEuropean and North American networkas they perform to sell-out audiences.

Exclusively to Aer Lingus guests,you can hear the guys give a track-by-track introduction to their latestalbum. Get to know the Dublin quartetand the stories behind their creativeprocess and success!

SPOTLIGHT: KODALINE

Our boardingmusiccontains a number

of contemporary Irishartists including Kodaline,VanMorrison, Paddy Casey,Boyzone, Hozier, The Script,

HomeTown,Westlife,Sinéad O‘Connor, Bressie

and Christy Moore.


ALL TIME FAVOURITES

ELEC TRO

OPER A

ALTERNATIVE

IRISH

POP

CL ASSIC AL

JA ZZ

RNB

COUNTRY

METAL

ROCK

Annie Lennox DivaIggy Pop Arista HeritageSeries: Iggy PopLeonard Cohen I‘m Your ManMott the Hoople All the YoungDudes (Legacy Edition)

Boots AquariaFoo Fighters Saint CeciliaNatalie Press Side by SidePatti Smith HorsesPink Floyd Pulse (Live)The Strokes Is This It

Khatia BuniatishviliKaleidoscopeDenis Matsuev EncoresMariss Jansons & WienerPhilharmoniker New Year‘sConcert 2016

Blake Shelton Reloaded:20 #1 HitsDolly Parton Just becauseI‘m aWomanLoretta Lynn Full CircleOld Dominion Meat and Candy

Faithless Sunday 8 PMFatboy Slim PalookavilleGalleon So I beginSaint Etienne Smash TheSystem Singles 1990–99ZHU & AlunaGeorgeGenesis Series

Damien DempseyThe Rocky RoadHermitage Green Save Your SoulKodaline Coming Up for AirKodaline In a Perfect WorldVan Morrison InarticulateSpeech of the Heart

Jaco Pastorius Jaco(Original Soundtrack)Miles Davis The Bootleg Series,Vol 3: Miles At the Fillmore 1970Thelonious Monk The CompleteColumbia Live Albums CollectionStacey Kent Tenderly

Bring Me the HorizonThat’s the SpiritBullet for My Valentine FeverJudas Priest Redeemer of SoulsMegadeth Th1rt3enMotörhead TheWörld is YoursYashin The Renegades

Leonard BernsteinWest Side StoryPaul Potts One ChancePuccini Il TabarroVerdi Opera’s Greatest Duets

Fleur East Love, Saxand FlashbacksKloe Teenage CrazeRachel Platten WildfireZayn Mind of Mine(Deluxe Edition)

Chris Brown RoyaltyJohn Legend Love in the FutureKid Ink Summer in theWinterStevie Wonder A Time 2 LoveYo Gotti The Art of Hustle(Deluxe Version)

Cage the ElephantTell Me I‘m PrettyDavid Bowie BlackstarJeff Buckley You and IJacob Whitesides Faces on FilmKings of Leon Only By The Night

Music On DemandBrowse through our selection of musicand create your own playlist from acollection of over 1,000 albums.

Annie Lennox

Hermitage Green

Khatia Buniatishvili

Jaco Pastorius

Loretta Lynn

Yashin

Paul Potts

Pink Floyd

ZHU & AlunaGeorge

Kloe Yo Gotti Jeff Buckley


DUBLIN

Follow the signs for ‘BaggageReclaim’. After clearing passportcontrol, your baggage belt will bedisplayed on the screens. Collectyour bags, exit through Customsand proceed to Aer LingusCheck-in Terminal 2.

Our staff are on hand for any queriesyou might have. Here you can:

– Collect your onwardsboarding pass

– Check your next boardinggate and flight status Duty free purchases containing

liquids over 100ml must be ina sealed and tamper-proof bagwith the receipt inside.

Enjoy refreshments in oneof the restaurants or cafés.

DEPARTURE GATE

Where areyou flying to?

Follow signsfor FlightConnections

PassportControland SecurityScreening

WELCOME TODUBLIN AIRPORT

YES NO

Are your bags checked throughto your final destination?

Followsigns for USPreclearance

Hand Baggagesearch

Aer Lingus FlightConnections Desk

GateInformationScreens

Follow signsfor FlightConnections

Our Gold Circle Membersand Business Class guestsare welcome to visit the GoldCircle Lounge. You can work,eat, drink or even grab ashower between flights.

GATES 401– 42615minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–42615minutes walk to gate

GATES 101–33520minutes walk to gate

DUBLIN

Have all yourrequired formsfilled out.

USA ALL OTHERDESTINATIONS

Flight Connectionsat Dublin Airport

Dublin Airportprovides FREE Wi-Fi

throughout theTerminal


Flight Connectionsat T2 Heathrow Airport

If you have anyqueries about yourconnecting flightat any of our NorthAmerican destinationsplease ask us.

We will do everythingwe can to get you towhere you need to be.

Flight Connections forNorth American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow,please follow the purple signsfor Flight Connections

Which Terminal are you flying from?For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you.Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If youare flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screeningand enter the departures lounge.

Security screeningYou will pass through security screening at this point. Yourhand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UKand EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml arenot allowed through security.

Departure LoungeCheck the screens in the departure lounge for when yourgate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.


Halifax

St. John’s

Philadelphia

Pittsburgh

Grand Rapids

Traverse

CharlotteGreenville

Harrisburg

Raleigh–Durham

NantucketMartha’s VineyardProvidence

Hyannis

RichmondNorfolkGreensboro

Washington (National)

Baltimore

Charleston

Savannah

Atlanta

JacksonvilleNew Orleans

Dallas(Fort Worth)

Austin

Phoenix

Las Vegas

Salt Lake City

Portland OR

Seattle

Boise

Columbia

Calgary

Edmonton

WinnipegVancouver

Denver

Long Beach Santa AnaBurbank

Santa Barbara

San LuisObispo

Oakland

San Jose

Sacramento Reno

San Diego

Houston

San Antonio

Oklahoma City

Wichita

TulsaNashville Knoxville

St Louis

Springfield

Des Moines

Cedar Rapids

Omaha

Memphis

Little Rock

Louisville

Indianapolis

Lexington

Cincinnati

Dayton Columbus

Minneapolis

Duluth

MilwaukeeMadison

Tampa

Fort Myers

West Palm BeachFort Lauderdale

Miami

Cleveland

Akron Canton

Detroit

BuffaloRochester

SyracuseAlbany

Burlington

Quebec

OttawaMontreal

Saskatoon

Regina

Victoria

Portland ME

Fargo

Sioux Falls

Fort Wayne

Aguadilla

San Juan

Ponce

Newark

New York (JFK)

Boston

Toronto

Chicago

San Francisco

Washington (Dulles)

Los Angeles

Hartford

Orlando

With US Customs and Border ProtectionPre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports,you will save time and avoid queues in the US.Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

Our European and North AmericanRoute Network

Aer Lingus European andNorth American Network

Aer Lingus Regional routes(Operated by Stobart Air)

Aer Lingus Regionaland mainline routes

Aer Lingus partner destinations(Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations(JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada)

Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland,the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast networkand partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in NorthAmerica. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

We are the bestchoice for connecting

Europe to North America.

You can travel from Dublindirect to nine US destinations,

or to Canada, and benefitfrom up to 100 onwardconnectionswith our

partner airlines.


Kerry Cork

Knock

BelfastDonegal

Glasgow

AberdeenInverness

Edinburgh

Newcastle

ManchesterLiverpool

Leeds BradfordDoncaster

East MidlandsBirmingham

Bristol

SouthamptonExeterNewquay

Cardiff London (Gatwick)

Paris

Amsterdam

Hamburg

Berlin

Frankfurt

Dusseldorf

Zurich

Munich

StuttgartVienna

Prague

Warsaw

Budapest

Brussels

Jersey

Rennes

Nantes

Bordeaux

BilbaoSantiago deCompostela

Barcelona

Palma

Rome

Bologna

Pisa

Venice

VeronaMilan(Linate)

Milan(Malpensa)

Dubrovnik

Pula

Naples

Catania

Corfu

AthensIzmir

Bourgas

AlicanteMurcia

Madrid

Malaga

Lisbon

LanzaroteTenerife

Gran Canaria

Fuerteventura

Faro

ToulouseMarseille

Montpellier

Perpignan

Lyon

Geneva

Nice

London (Heathrow)

Isle of Man

ShannonDublin

Try our newonline route map

You can view our destinationsand book your flight directlyfrom our route map. Perfectfor viewing from your ipad,it is built using Google mapsso no need to install anysoftware, just browse

and book!

Connect withease from any

of our Europeandestinations to ourNorthern Americannetwork via Dublin

or Shannon.


Cape Town

Johannesburg

Muscat

Sydney

Melbourne

Perth

Bahrain

Abu Dhabi

ondonHeathrow

Singapore

Kuala Lumpur

Dubai

LondonHeathrow

Dublin

Our Middle East, Australasia andSouth African Route Network

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi(Operated by our codeshare partnerEtihad Airways)

Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow(Operated by our codeshare partnerBritish Airways)

You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the MiddleEast, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi.Visit aerlingus.com for more information.


2 ConnectLaunch or refresh the browser toconnect to the Aer Lingus portal. Youcan browse aerlingus.com for freealong with some of our partners’ sites.

3 PurchaseInternet AccessClick the ‘Buy Internet Access’ buttonand choose a tariff that offers either onehour of browsing or a full flight pass.

4 PaymentSelect your payment method which isprocessed via a secure connection. Creditcard, roaming, iPass, PayPal or DeutscheTelekom accounts are accepted.

5 Usernameand PasswordEnter a username and password.You need to remember these if youwish to change device.

6 ConnectedYou can now browse, emailand surf the internet… enjoy!

1 Switch onOnce the safety belt sign has beenswitched off, turn on your deviceand connect to the Telekom HotSpotNetwork. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95

Wi-Fi on boardOn our A330 aircraft you can stay intouch with everything that matters,even when you’re in the air. Here’s howto connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

NEW

LOWER

PRICES

2 AeromobileWait for the AeroMobile networksignal to appear. If your device doesnot connect automatically, manuallyselect the AeroMobile networkthrough network settings.

3Welcome SMSOnce connected you will receive awelcome SMS from AeroMobile.You may also receive a pricingmessage from your mobile operator.International roaming rates apply.

4 ConnectedYou can now use your phone for SMS,MMS, email and browsing the internet.

** Voice calls are disabled and are notpermitted during flight. Remember tomanage your settings to avoid automaticdata download and roaming charges.

1 Switch onSwitch on your mobile when it issafe to do so, keeping it on silent orvibrate mode. Ensure you switch offflight safe mode.

Mobile Networkon boardWith our on board mobile network,AeroMobile, you can use your phonefor text, email and internet browsing,just like you would on the ground**. Stayconnected even as you cross the Atlantic.

International roaming rates apply fromyour mobile phone operator

Stayingconnectedon board*

*A330 aircraft only.148 | | AERLINGUS.COM

A trip to Dublin would not be completewithout visiting Tom Monaghan in his

store in Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Way.Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmereand has been in business for over 55years, selling a wide range of classic

cashmere in the latest styles and coloursfor both men and women.

As we are celebrating our 55th yearTom would personally love to meet you

in-store and offer you an extra 10%discount in addition to your tax free

rebate on your horizon tax free card forall non EU residents

( terms and conditions apply)

Monaghan’s Cashmere,Royal Hibernian Way,

Dawson Street, Dublin 2,Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ie

MONAGHAN’SCASHMERE STORE

Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store”Frommers Travel Guide

Mdiscount in addition to your tax freeMdiscount in addition to your tax freerebate on your horizon tax free card forMrebate on your horizon tax free card for

all non EU residentsMall non EU residents( terms and conditions apply)M( terms and conditions apply)

Monaghan’s Cashmere,MMonaghan’s Cashmere,Royal Hibernian Way,MRoyal Hibernian Way,

Dawson Street, Dublin 2,MDawson Street, Dublin 2,Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451MPhone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ieMwww.monaghanscashmere.ie

Mr. Tom Monaghan

ExpEriEncE TiTanic BElfasTa must see visitor attraction in Belfast, northern ireland

BOOK yOur TicKETs aT TiTanicBElfasT.cOM

June Offer £2.50 Off sOuvenir phOtO On presentatiOn Ofaer Lingus bOarding pass

[email protected] |www.mcgettigans.com

an irishwelcome,whereveryougo. experiencethebestof irelandathome&abroad

uae | ireland |singapore |usa |uk

DELIVERING REAL BENEFITS

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LONG HOURS, LONGFLIGHT OR HOLIDAYNOT LONG ENOUGH?

“D&C has set the benchmark for casual Italian diningin the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine

“Dunne & Crescenzi has changed the way theIrish eat” - Tom Doorley

“Pioneering & reigning” - The New York Times“D&C has set the benchmark for casual Italian diningin the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine

Valued collection of casual Italian restaurants

14-16 South Frederick St.Dublin 2

Ph:+353 (1) 6759892

11 Seafort Avenue,Sandymount, Dublin 4Ph:353 (1) 6673252

Bar Italia OrmondQuay

Ph: +353 (1) 8741000

L’O cinaDundrum

Ph: +353 (1) 2166764

L’O cinaKildare

Ph: +353 045 535850

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estaurant Guide

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M A R C O P I E R R E W H I T E

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51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2Ph: 0035316771155

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LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK1 Belmont Ave, D 4

Ph: [email protected]

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE

This beautiful silver pendant by Irish Designer MagsHarnett, is symbolic of so many Irish people who haveemigrated from Ireland. She has used the lettering from

the Book of Kells to inscribe a line from a poem byJohn Locke “But the heart will sigh for the absent land.”

The pendant is available exclusively in Mc CormacksJewellers, a family owned store for over half a century,

centrally located on Grafton Street.

51 Grafton Street, Dublin 200353-1-6773737

www.celticdublin.comA treasure trove of Irish Celtic JewelleryA treasure trove of Irish Celtic Jewellery

This beautiful silver pendant by Irish Designer Harnett, is symbolic of so many Irish people who have emigrated from Ireland. She has used the lettering from

the Book of Kells to inscribe a line from a poem by John Locke “

The pendant is available exclusively in Mc Cormacks Jewellers, a family owned store for over half a century,

centrally located on Grafton Street.

This beautiful silver pendant by Irish Designer Harnettemigrated from Ireland. She has used the lettering from

the Book of Kells to inscribe a line from a poem by John Locke “

The pendant is available exclusively in Mc Cormacks Jewellers, a family owned store for over half a century,

McCormacks Celtic Jewellers

A Dublin Landmark…One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.Doheny &Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports andmedia personalitieswith bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green,a must for any trip to Dublin.

A Dublin Landmark…

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: [email protected]

Doheny & Nesbitt4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T , D U B L I N

Live musicEvery Sundayand Mondayfrom 8pm

Food served allDay, BreakfastLunch & Dinner

Private functionrooms available

Votedoverall

in Ireland inthe hospitalityIreland awards

best pub

• Over30GreatStops!!• EntertainingLiveCommentary• Fáilte Ireland trainedguides

Dublin Sightseeing greenbusdublin

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→ Travel Information Desk (T1)→ Dublin Sightseeing Team at Airlink Bus

Stop (T1&T2)→ On-board your Airlink Express Bus

€6ONE WAY

€10RETURN

AIRPORTSPECIAL

€17Airport Special is a 48Hour Ticket. Available at Airlink Terminus (T1 & T2),and Travel Information Desk (T1)

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290x220mm_PW_Cara_2015:Layout 1 30/03/2015 09:13 Page 1

For a real treat one should experience theworld famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’sHOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’stroop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course

evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person.

• AWARDWINNING KITCHEN

• TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT

• CORPORATE EVENTS

• PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland lTel: (01) 295 5647 Email: [email protected]

www.jfp.ie

Hooley Nights

HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s

SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITYAWARDWINNING A LA CARTE MENU

www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub

Johnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the DublinMountains has it all, a living museum of Irish

History andTradition where unique pieces from oldfarm implements to Historical antiquities adorn everywall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la cartemenu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playingtraditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kindof Irish welcome is not to be missed.

Situated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centreand 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry

Villages why not take our private shuttle bus whichwill collect you from an array of Dublin City orCounty Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie(01 8221122) for 5 each way.€

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

&

27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2. • Ph: +353 (0)1 675 9744INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING

@Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen orwww.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Ireland’sWhiskeyExperts!

93 NEW STREET, KILLARNEY, CO. KERRY

WWW.IRISHWHISKEYEXPERIENCE.NET

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Thenewhomeof IrishWhiskey!

6 Irishwhiskeymasterclassesdaily from 10.30am –6pm

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boutiqueLUXURY SHOPPING AT DISCOUNTED PRICES MAY – NOVEMBER 2016

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There’s a timepiece for everyoccasion in this month’s Boutique.

SCANDINAVIANMINIMALISMPractical AND smart,

this Skagan watch has

a streamlined dial set

in a brushed titanium

face and a stainless steel

mesh strap. Ideal for

peeking out from a crisp

shirtsleeve.

SPORTS LUXEThe perfect gym buddy, this

Adidas Questra Mid-Alarm

Chronograph watch has scratch-

resistant glass, a tough outer

casing and a stopwatch for the

ultimate performance piece.

RETRO COOLThe yellow face of

this Sekonda Sports

Chronograph watch gives it

a contemporary edge to the

classic gents watch. Dress it

up or down, this timepiece

is sure to stand out.

TRADITIONALBEAUTY

This Sekonda Oxblood

Watch is not only nailing

this season’s key colour but

its design is so simple and

classic that it can be worn

from day to night.

312

GLITTERINGNIGHT OWLNeed some sparkle that will

really make an impact? This

three-piece set from Sekonda

can be worn all together for

plenty of night-time dazzling.

4

OFFICEROMANCENeed a watch

that’s classic and

functional with a

stylish twist? This

mesh wristwatch

from Sekonda keeps

things minimal with

just a hint of sparkle

on the dial. Perfect to

take you from meetings

to after-work drinks.

Watch it!

5 6

TRIP OF A LIFETIME | SUNDANCE


“It’s true what they say about the lightin the desert – magic unlike any other”

s a screenwriter,having a filmpremiere at theSundance FilmFestival is one of

those pinch-me moments – anactual dream come true. My secondfeature film Mammal – co-writtenand directed by my great friendRebecca Daly – was bestowed justthat honour earlier this year at the2016 festival in Park City, Utah. Soit was that I got to realise anotherdream, long nurtured since myteenage self began staging plays inthe parish hall of a small NorthernIrish town – I finally packed mybags and with my husband Leonardin tow headed to LA, our first stopon what was to be an incredibletwo-week adventure. And the placeI’m pretty sure most, if not every,filmmaker hopes to land some day.

The sunny warmth of LAprovided a most welcomeescape from January in Ireland.Determined not to let a littlething like jet lag get in the way, weheaded out and immediately fell inlove with the city and its rhythms.We stayed in an apartment justoff Hollywood Boulevard, a trulysplendid thoroughfare of distressedglamour. But to really see LA youhave to drive, so drive we did. WellLeonard did, for our safety and thatof the good citizens of LA.

In our few days we managedto pack in most of the wondersof La La Land – a spin up to theHollywood sign; driving by thegilded gates of those Beverly Hillsmansions; strolling the Malibubeaches; watching the sun set from

APLACE INTHE SUNHowMammal screenwriter GlennMontgomery shone at this year’sSundance Film Festival.

Santa Monica pier;dinner in SoHoHouse where wespotted a few very,very famous patrons;trying to fit our handsinto the prints of thosestars immortalised incement outside the formerMann’s Chinese Theatre(now TCL ChineseTheatre) and realising alot of those movie star hands wereeerily small. The best night out wasdinner in Pump, the hottest of gayhotspots in West Hollywood. Wehad the added pleasure of beingseated at the table next to Pump’sindomitably fabulous landlady,Lisa Vanderpump. She doesn’t dophotographs – unless you catch heren route to the loo. So rather thanimpede her next dash to the littlegirl’s room, we took a snap of theback of her head. It will be treasured.

After five days we packed upthe car – a jeep-type affair – andhit the road to Park City for themain event. We planned to do the1,000-plus-kilometre trip over twodays, to stop and see as much as theroad had to offer. A best forgottenovernight in a dodgy motel withscratchy sheets – I found its squalorquite romantic in a seedy way, myLeonard didn’t agree – inspired usto get on the road at sunrise andhead into the Nevada desert. Theaim was to hit Las Vegas for lunch.

It’s true what they say aboutthe light in the desert – its magicis unlike any other. Driving in astraight line, as you do on mostAmerican roads, can be boring

I’m sure but not on thishighway. As we neared theUtah state line, I’d alreadybeen struck by the sheervastness of Nevada with itsred-planet-like terrain andrandom casinos poppingup out of the dust like neonoases. But crossing into Utah

made me realise that I had neverreally had my breath taken awaybefore. Not really. Ever. Becausebreath taking is the only way todescribe the landscape in which wenow found ourselves. It felt like theedge of the world, another world, ina far-off galaxy. Huge snow-coveredblue mountains as far as the eyecould see under even bluer skies.No photograph, no words, can dojustice to the sheer, immense beautythat is this part of the world. Wedrove in a state of wonder and awe– another good reason for those verystraight roads.

The closer we got to Park City themore the snow fell – real snow, notthose flurries we get in Ireland. Theskiing is great according to Rebeccaand her clan. They took to the slopeswith gusto. I prefer to live out suchphysical undertakings in my scripts.Park City is a small enough city. Butdespite the minus-20 temperatures,it’s one of the warmest and friendliestcities I’ve ever visited. And Sundanceis a very laid-back festival.

Much too cold for black ties here.Everyone shivers up the red carpet intheir snow boots and Canada goosecoats. We managed an all-too-briefvisit to the beautiful nearby Salt LakeCity before the premiere of the film.Which went well. Really well. I hopeI’m asked back again some day.

Do you have aTrip of a Lifetime

story aboutan Aer Lingusdestination?

Please send it [email protected] at notmore than 600

words with aportrait shotof yourself.The editor’s

decision is final.

A

Top, cast and crewfrom Mammal at

Sundance; Glenn,right, and Leonardliving large in The

Golden State.

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Documents

Cara June 2016