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Calculating the toxicity footprint of Swedish clothing consumptionSandra Roos1, Rickard Arvidsson2, Christina Jönsson1
1 Swerea IVF, Sweden2 Chalmers University of Technology, Sweden
Financial support from the Mistra Future Fashion programme, the SUPFES project and Swerea IVF is gratefully acknowledged.
Toxicity is a major environmental challenge of the textile industry
Photo by Greenpeace
Photo by China Daily/Reuters
Kooistra et al., 2006© WWF / Mauri RAUTKARI
2%
98%
Arable land
25%
75%
Insecticide use
cotton
Conventional cotton is a known culprit
Fibre production
Dyeing and finishing
Use
End-of-life
Retail
– but is it enough to buy organic cotton?
Yarn production
Fabric production
Sewing
A = inventory including chemicals has been made but only shown as aggregated results,
Polyester Cotton Poly-
propyle
ne
Viscose/
modal
Polya-
mide
Acrylic Lyocell Wool Elastane
Life cycle phase:
Raw material extraction
Pesticides/fertilizers N/A Q1, q3, A2 N/A - N/A N/A A4 A5 N/A
Monomers and additives A2,q6,A7 N/A q6,A7 N/A A2,q6,A7 A2,q6A7 N/A N/A A2
Fibre spinning additives A2,q6,A7 N/A q6,A7 q6 A2,q6,A7 A2,q6,A7 A4,q6 N/A A2,q8
Production processes
Yarn spinning lubricants A2,q8 A2,q8 q8 q8 A2,q8 A2,q8 q8 q8 A2,q8
Sizing agents A2,q8 A2,q8 q8 q8 A2,q8 A2,q8 q8 q8 A2,q8
Knitting lubricants A2,q8 A2,q8 q8 q8 A2,q8 A2,q8 q8 q8 A2,q8
Scouring, desizing etc. A2,q8 A2,q8 q8 q8 A2,q8 A2,q8 q8 q8 A2,q8
Reactive continuous dyeing N/A Q9,Q10 q8 q8 N/A N/A q8 q8 N/A
Reactive exhaust dyeing N/A Q11 q8 q8 N/A N/A q8 q8 N/A
Disperse, direct, acid etc. dyeing q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8
Spin dyeing q8 N/A q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 N/A q8
Wet coating q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8
Dry coating q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8
Waste water treatment q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8
Printing processes q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8 q8
Transport biocides - - - - - - - - -
Use
Exposure to skin from wearing - - - - - - - - -
Leakage during washing - - - - - - - - -
Wet cleaning agents ---------------------------------- A12,Q13,Q14,A15--------------------------------------
Dry cleaning agents ----------------------------------------- A15,Q16-------------------------------------------
End of life
Emissions from incineration, landfill
leakage or recycling processes
q17 q17 - - - - - - -
Q = quantitative LCI in the reference
q = qualitative discussion in the publication(q8 = Textile BREF)
N/A = not applicable.
Create LCIs
Create CFs
LCIs needed to know
which chemicals to
develop CFs for
CFs needed to know which
chemicals that are relevant
to inventory
CAS REGISTRY has reached 100 million
chemical substances…
Create LCIs
>15,000 different chemicals
are used in the textile industry
LCI = Life Cycle InventoryCF = Characterisation factor
Create LCIsFunction-based nomenclature for
inventory data
=> generalisations can be made
UsersWet
treatment
Recipes
often trade secret
Garment
making
Fabric
production
Fiber
production
Brands and
retailers
Yarn
production
Material
distribution
Waste
collectors
Recycling
Textile input
chemicals
production
Base chemicals
production
New products with
unknown content
User exposure
+ Possible
emissions from
laundry
Em
iss
ion
s
to a
ir ,
wa
ter,
so
ila
nd
ind
oo
ra
ir:
Solvents
Carbon disulfide
Surfactants
Monomers
Catalysts
Spinning oils Needle oils
Sizing agents
Detergents
Lubricants
Stabilizers
Bleach
Dyestuff
Salts
Softeners
Finishing agents
Prints
COD
Stain removal
Spray bleaching
Finishing agents
Biocides
Container gas
Fuel combustion
(transports occur
between all steps)
Transport
Waste
treatmentRaw material
extraction
Pesticides
Fertilisers
Crude oil
Fracking agents
Textile production processes
Possible emissions
if inadequate waste
treatment
Step I. USEtoxendorsed databases
Step III. WOE approach: estimated
data + experimental
data from Step II
Step II. Experimental data
from other data
sources
Complete data set
and
MDQ?
CF-MDQ
CF-MDQ
CF-MDQ
Data gap
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
No, no data
available
Complete data set
and
MDQ?
Complete data set
and
MDQ?
CF non-MDQ
No, some data
available
MDQ = Minimum Data QualityWOE = Weight -of-Evidence
Data source selection strategy for LCIA=> consistent development of CFs can be made Create CFs
Roos, S., Holmquist, H., Jönsson, C., Arvidsson, R. (2017) USEtox characterization factors for textile chemicals based on a transparent data source selection strategy. The International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, First Online: 01 June 2017.
Calculating the toxicity footprint of Swedish clothing consumptionSome particular conditions for Swedish clothing consumption are shown below.
Yearly consumption per Swede:10 kg 6 000 SEK50 pcs
European landfill ban on combustible waste
implemented in 2002
Results: Freshwater ecotoxicity impacts from the Swedish apparel sector over one year
(cradle to gate)
Cotton…
0,0E+00
5,0E+09
1,0E+10
1,5E+10
2,0E+10
2,5E+10
Fibreproduction
Yarnspinning
Fabricproduction
Wettreatment
Garmentproduction
Background processes Foreground processes
Results: Freshwater ecotoxicity impacts for black shirts – cotton vs. polyester
14%
56%
4%
22%
0%
Climate change potential from the different life cycles of a garment
Fibre production
Garment production
Distribution
Consumer transport
Laundry
Disposal
fibre production
yarn spinning
fabric production
wet treatment
finishing
sewing
distribution and retail
use
maintenance
waste treatment
3%
14%
56%
4%
22%
0%
Climate change potential from the different life cycles of a garment
Fibre production
Garment production
Distribution
Consumer transport
Laundry
Disposal
fibre production
yarn spinning
fabric production
wet treatment
finishing
sewing
distribution and retail
use
maintenance
waste treatment
14 %
3%
14%
56%
4%
22%
0%
Climate change potential from the different life cycles of a garment
Fibre production
Garment production
Distribution
Consumer transport
Laundry
Disposal
fibre production
yarn spinning
fabric production
wet treatment
finishing
sewing
distribution and retail
use
maintenance
waste treatment
70 %
3%
Conclusions and future work
• There is an enormous amount of chemicals used in the textile industry –
generalisation can be made via functionality thinking
• Characterisation factors are complex to develop, a data source selection strategy is
recommended in order to keep consistency
• Results show that dyeing and finishing of textiles is a larger burden to the environment
than is the cotton cultivation
• The yarn spinning, weaving and dyeing cause the major climate impacts in the textile
life cycle
Scientific Work for Industrial Use
www.swerea.se
Thank you!
Questions?