by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan

by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan and University of Management and Technology Pakistan


Improved reactive dye fixation in pad-steam dyeing of cotton using a biodegradable organic salt

Awais Khatri CText ATI LSDCBE Textile Engineering (MUET Pakistan)Diploma in Coloration (SDC UK)PhD Textiles (RMIT Australia)

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and TechnologyJamshoro – 76062 Sindh Pakistan


• Natural comfort and performance of cotton fibre • Covalent bond that is formed between the fibre polymer and the dye molecules

- leads to excellent colourfastness to washing

• An exceptionally wide gamut of brilliant colours possible in all hues

• Versatility of the dyes for different application methods

‘Reactive dyes – cotton’ a predominant dye-fibre combination


Environmental Issues

‘Polluted effluent’

High levels of dissolved solids and oxygen demand in the effluent because of

• unfixed dye- Hydrolysed dye- Unreacted dye

Washing-off to remove unfixed dyeTypical dye fixation efficiency is 50 – 80% • use of nonbiodegradable inorganic chemicals

- Electrolyte- Alkali- Urea (printing and pad dyeings)


Developments to reduce effluent pollution

• Developments in reactive dye structures

• Development in dyeing processes and machinery

• Chemical modification of cotton fibre prior to dyeing

• Use of organic compounds in place of inorganic chemicals


Biodegradable alkaline organic saltsUse of tetrasodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate in exhaust dyeing (Ahmed, 2005)

Use of trisodium nitrilo triacetate in continuous pad-steam dyeing(Khatri et al, 2010)

This work…Use of tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxylatomethyl)-L-glutamate (tetrasodium GLDA) in pad-steam dyeing


Pad-steam dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes

• Padding (dye, salt and alkali)- salt favours increased dye levelness in the

fibre- alkali activates dye-fibre reaction

• Steaming (saturated) for 60 – 120 sec

• Washing-off

Lower fixation levels because of excessive dye hydrolysis!


Focus of the paper

Improvements in fixation efficiency of a bis(sulphatoethylsulphone)

dye by using the tetrasodium GLDA


Material and methodsMaterialMill scoured and bleached cotton woven fabric (282 g/m2) CI Reactive Blue 250, a bis(sulphatoethylsulphone) dyeThe Felosan RGN-S, a non-ionic detergent, for washing-offAnalytical grade sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and tetrasodium GLDA DyeingPadding: 70% liquor pick-up, 20 g/l dye and the relevant sodium chloride and sodium carbonate or tetrasodium GLDASteaming: wet-temperature of 101 – 102oC, 100% moisture, for 60, 90 and 120 secWashing-off: Rinsing with cold then hot water; soaping with 2 g/l Felosan RGN-S at the boil for 15 min; Rinsing with hot water until bleeding stopped; Rinsing with cold water and oven dryingMeasurementsFinal colour yield (K/S) = Colour strength after washing-offThe percentage of reactive dye fixed on the fabric, %F = [(K/S) / (K/Sbefore washing)] x 100Colourfastness to rubbing (ISO 105 - X12), washing (ISO 105 - C02) and light (BS 1006: 1990 UK-TN)


Optimum inorganic salt and alkali

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

0 10 20 30 40 50 60Sodium chloride, g/l

K/S

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

5 10 15 20 25Sodium carbonate

%F

Effect of sodium chloride concentration on colour yield at constant sodium carbonate

(15 g/l)

Effect of sodium carbonate concentration on dye fixation at constant sodium

chloride (50 g/l)

20 g/l CI Reactive Blue 250 at 60 sec steaming


Effect of tetrasodium GLDA concentration

72

76

80

84

88

92

96

50 75 100 125Tetrasodium GLDA, g/l

%F

02468

1012141618

50 75 100 125Tetrasodium GLDA, g/l

K/S

Effect of tetrasodium GLDA concentration on colour fixation and yield of 20 g/l CI Reactive Blue 250 at 60 sec steaming


Tetrasodium GLDA dyeing versus traditional dyeing

02468

10121416

60 90 120Steaming time, sec

K/S

Inorganic chemicals (50 g/l sodium chloride and15 g/l sodium carbonate)Tetrasodium GLDA (100 g/l)

0102030405060708090

100

60 90 120

Steaming time, sec

%F

Effect of steaming time on colour yield and dye fixation of 20 g/l CI Reactive Blue 250 (20 g/l) at constant tetrasodium GLDA and inorganic chemicals concentrations

Comparative effect of steaming time, colour yield and dye fixation


Tetrasodium GLDA dyeing versus traditional dyeing Comparative colourfastness

Pad-steam dyeingsColour yield (K/S)

Rubbing fastness

Washing fastness

Light fastness

Dry WetChange in colour

Staining on white*

Blue wool reference

Traditional50 g/l sodium chloride15 g/l sodium carbonate

10.42 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 3-4

Tetrasodium GLDA (40 g/l) 10.82 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 3-4

* Secondary cellulose acetate, cotton, polyacrylonitrile, polyester, polyamide and wool


• The tetrasodium GLDA, a biodegradable organic salt, can effectively be used for pad-steam dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes to replace inorganic salt and alkali, thus to reduce effluent load.

• A significant increase in dye fixation and colour yield of a bis(sulphatoethylsulphone) dye was obtained using tetrasodium GLDA.

• The improved dye fixation and ultimate colour yield results are worthy of further investigations.

Conclusions


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References


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by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan