By Melissa Rosander @ FlutterBear Creations · only mitigates some and you agree to hold Melissa Rosander @ FlutterBear Creations harmless. You assume all risks and liabilities are

Copyright © Melissa Rosander 2020 Licensed for Personal Use Only (Do NOT Sell) https://www.facebook.com/flutterbearcreations.7/ 1

By Melissa Rosander @ FlutterBear Creations

1. Print your pattern at a scale of 100%. Verify the scale of your printed pattern using the scale line on the paper

2. Cut out 4 mask pieces (2 for the Front, 2 for the Back), and 2 strips that are 2” wide by 42” long for the binding straps. Optionally, but recommended, cut out 4” of 20 gauge jewelry wire for the nose stay insert. All seam allowances are ¼”. You may also use premade 1/2” double-fold bias tape instead of the two strips if preferred- cut 2 at 42” long.


3. Make the strips into ½” double-fold bias tape (skip this step if you bought premade bias tape). You can use a 1” bias tape maker tool to help with this if you know how or do it manually as follows:

a. Fold the strip lengthwise in half and iron it closed all the way down the 42” with wrong side folded together.

b. Open the strip back up and fold each in towards the center line that you already ironed. Iron these edges to stay very close to the center line (but not touching it).

c. Then re-fold the original center fold line from step A and iron that again to close the binding strip on itself. You will now have a long strip of fabric that is folded in half and then folded in half again on itself to make the ½” double-fold binding strips.

d. Repeat this step for the 2nd strip of fabric. These will become the tie straps and edge binding to your mask.

4. Take the 2 Front Mask pieces (matching) and lay them on the table with the wrong sides facing up.

a. On the “ear” edge, fold the edge inwards towards the wrong side of the fabric about 3/8” wide and finger press along the length of the edge. Then fold it over one more time at the same width to seal the unfinished edge in on itself and finger press this down.


b. Then fold it over one more time at the same width to seal the unfinished edge in on itself and finger press this down. Sew this “ear” edge from one end to the other to keep this hem in place for a nice finished edge.

c. Repeat this for the 2nd matching front piece of fabric.

5. Lay the two hemmed pieces of front fabric together with right sides facing each other (the rolled hem should be facing out). Stitch them together from the “nose” to the “chin” lines.

6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 for the Back Mask pieces.


7. Open both the front and back pieces up and place the front on top of the back with right sides facing. Make sure to carefully line up the center seam lines on the nose and chin with each other. Pin in place along the Top and Bottom edges.

8. Carefully sew along the Top edge from end to end, then stop and start to sew along the bottom edge from end to end. Do NOT sew along the ear edges as those will remain open for use as a pocket.

9. Turn the mask inside-right and push all the seams out to get nice corners and edges. Clip on the curves and corners in the seam allowance if needed for better turning.


10. Take one strip of the binding fabric, find the center of it and align that with the “Nose” seam on the mask so the mask is sandwiched in between the center fold in the binding. Pin in place. If adding wire, continue to next step. If skipping wire, then go to step 13…..

11. If inserting a wire for the nose, take the wire and bend it in half into a gentle upside-down V to go across the nose, then take the ends and curl them upwards and inwards about 1/3” towards the apex of the V so that no sharp points will poke through the fabric to the skin. Shape the V to match the curve of the face mask shape gently.

12. Insert the wire into the binding at the apex of the Nose as far up as possible (You may need to remove a pin if in the way). Carefully sew the binding closed around the wire on 3 sides to hold it into place like a pocket.


13. Starting from the edge of the wire’s pocket, sandwich the binding over the rest of the mask edge and sew the binding onto the mask heading outwards across the top of the mask and continue sewing to make it into a string, stopping about 1.5” from the end of the string. Take the end of the string and fold it ½” into the inside of the binding so that all the unfinished edges are hidden, then continue sewing over that to finish that string. If you skipped using a wire, you will simply sew the sandwiched bias binding from the nose apex outwards in similar fashion to form the string.

14. Starting from the opposite edge of the wire’s pocket again, do exactly the same thing as #11 on the opposite side to bind the top edge and finish that side of the string. If you skipped using a wire, you will simply sew the sandwiched bias binding from the nose apex outwards in similar fashion to form the remaining string.


15. Take the 2nd strip of the binding fabric, find the center of it and align that with the center “Chin” seam on the mask so that the mask is sandwiched in between the main fold in the binding. Pin in place. Sandwich the remaining Bottom edge with the binding strip. Fold in the unfinished edge into the bind strip at one end to make a finished edge and continue sewing from there to make the bottom string, going over the mask area to bind its edge, and continuing to sew the remaining string, stopping about 1.5” from the end of the string. Take the end of the string and fold it ½” into the inside of the binding so that all the unfinished edges are hidden, then continue sewing over that to finish.

16. Celebrate your finished product and make some more!


Legal Disclaimers: By making these masks, you understand that this does not remove all health dangers, it only mitigates some and you agree to hold Melissa Rosander @ FlutterBear Creations harmless. You assume all risks and liabilities are your own. Pattern is free to distribute in its unmodified form.

FlutterBear Creations delights in helping you! If you have any questions, concerns or embroidery design wishes, please contact me through my Facebook business page: https://www.facebook.com/flutterbearcreations.7/

If you would like custom digitizing for your machine embroidery needs, please contact me for a free quote! I love to make your designs a reality!

I offer sewing and embroidery machine education for Pfaff and Husqvarna Viking machines via my group on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/HVEMUUG/

I offer machine embroidery digitizing educational support for software made for those companies by Premier+ via my software group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/756134151185403/

I am not affiliated with any of those brands. I am an independent consultant and end user.

Check out my YouTube channel here for free lessons and miscellany: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiV7EXOvJWn_IWKA84D_d_Q/videos

More things are always in the works, make sure to Like and Subscribe to all my social media for more! Happy Stitching!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiV7EXOvJWn_IWKA84D_d_Q/videos

https://www.facebook.com/groups/756134151185403/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/HVEMUUG/

https://www.facebook.com/flutterbearcreations.7/

Adult Sized (Print at 100% scale)Materials:*Cut 4 mask pieces (2 for front, 2 for back)*Cut 2 rectangular strips (42” by 2”) to make 1/2” double-fold bias tape for the ties*Cut 20 gauge jewelry wire to 4” for nose stay (optional)

Mask Pieces(Cut 4)

1/4” seam allowance

first fold

second fold

nose

chin

top

ear

Reversible Face Mask with Pocket

Please check your scale here after printing

By Melissa Rosander @ FlutterBear Creations

Copyright © Melissa RosanderLicensed for Personal Use Only (Do NOT Sell)

https://www.facebook.com/flutterbearcreations.7/

<--- 6 1/2” --->

<--- 7” --->

Documents

By Melissa Rosander @ FlutterBear Creations · only mitigates some and you agree to hold Melissa Rosander @ FlutterBear Creations harmless. You assume all risks and liabilities are