By John Wildman

Incommon usage, the term "renova-tion" is applied to everything fromremodeling athletic facilities to restor-

ing old homes. By definition, renova-tion means "to reinvigorate, refresh, orrevive." Turfgrass renovation is a processof improving the turfgrass by measuresextraordinary to normal maintenance pro-cedures but short of removing the exist-ing grass and replanting. However,before beginning turf renovation it'simportant to determine what causedthe existing grass to decline and ifenough of the desirable species remainsto make renovation practical.

Any number ofmaladies can afflict tur-fgrasses to the point ofneeding renovation.

14 sporlsTURF

In the case of home lawns, for example,the most common problem is impropermowing. Homeowners typically mowtoo low and too infrequently and fail tosharpen their mower blades on a regu-lar basis. Other home lawn problems thatlead to renovation include improperirrigation, mistakes with fertilizers andpesticides, and buried construction scrap.

With professionally installed andmanaged turf, the problems tend to bemore complex. Turfgrass can deterioratedue to excessive thatch, tree root inva-sion, inadequate light, pest invasion,excessive traffic, adverse soil proper-ties (high soluble salts, low pH, etc.) oradverse soil properties such as com-paction and layering. Often a combina-

tion of the problems previously men-tioned is involved. Whatever caused theturfgrass to decline must be determinedand corrected or the renovation willprobably fail for the same reason.

Find the Source of TroubleDiscerning the cause of turfgrass

problems is tricky and can be done in lightof past history of the turf, as well as cur-rent observations. A soil probe is very use-ful in evaluating rooting depth and soilphysical conditions. Correct diagnosis andsubsequent soil amendments may alsorequire a soil test. The soil probe can beused to pull soil plugs for visual obser-vations as well as subsequent lab anal-ysis. Plugs should be pulled at randomfrom the entire area. Spots that are not

indicative of the general condition ofthe soil should be avoided. For example,it would not be appropriate to pull sam-ples near road beds or in localized wetspots. Plugs should be pulled to a depthof about 6 inches and the top and bottom1 inch removed.

Fifteen to 25 plugs are usually suffi-cient. The plugs should be spread out andallowed to air dry, screened using apiece of fiberglass house screen, andthoroughly mixed prior to submittingthem for lab analysis. Phosphorus andpotassium fertility and pH should beadjusted based on lab recommenda-tions.

Determining a renovation's feasibil-ity requires a thorough assessment of thesite. Virtually any turf grass can be ren-ovated. However, renovation is notalways the best choice. If the turfgrassis too thin or severe physical or chemi-cal problems exist in the soil, completeremoval and replanting may be more cost-effective and give better results. As a ruleof thumb, renovation should not beattempted unless about 60 percent of thearea is covered by the desirable species.However, with vigorous, stoloniferous andrhizomatous species such as bermuda-grass or creeping bentgrass, successfulrenovation is possible with stands thatare somewhat thinner. It is also possi-ble to renovate thinner stands withseeded turf grass varieties by reseedingas part of the renovation process. Soilproblems that may limit successful ren-ovation include: severe layering, exceed-ingly poor drainage, excessive solublesalts, or buildup of toxic chemicals in thesurface layer.

Tools for Correction

Once it has been determined thatrenovation is practical and existingproblems have been determined andcorrected, the renovation process canbegin. Note that some problems, such asexcessive thatch, will be corrected inthe renovation process and may requireprior attention. Of course, renovationshould always be done during the grow-ing season and should not be attempt-ed during periods of severe turfgrassstress.

Itwill be necessary to eradicate exist-ing weeds prior to beginning actual ren-ovation. This can be accomplished eitherby spot-spraying with a non-selective her-bicide or a broadcast application of selec-tive herbicide. In either case, an herbi-cide should be selected which either

has soil activity or translocates via thephloem (i.e., systemic herbicide) to facil-itate destroying underground parts ofperennial weeds. Some situations mayrequire more than one application ofherbicide. Thus, herbicide treatments willtypically need to begin one to threeweeks prior to renovation.

The exact method of weed controlwill depend on the species of weeds pre-sent, the extent of the weed problemand the herbicides selected, and shouldbe decided on a case-by-case basis. Helpin selecting the appropriate herbicides

is generally available through statecooperative extension services.

The first step in renovation is assem-bling the appropriate equipment. Thisarsenal should include:• Pickup or stake-body truck with highsides for hauling debris.• Heavy-duty vertical mower for thatchremoval.• Heavy-duty rotary mower for scalping.• Brush-type sweep for removing debris.• Turf vacuum (optional) for removingfiner debris and mat.

continued on page 16

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Turfgrass Renovationcontinued from page 15

- Hollow tine aerifier (optional) for corecultivation.- Steel drag mat or broom-type dragfor working in topdressing and seed.- Leaf rakes, brooms and pitchforks forclean-up.- Disc seeder (optional) if reseeding isplanned.- Two- to 3-inch plugging tool(optional) for transplantingplugs from healthy areas.- Irrigation marking flags orstakes to mark obstructions.

Process SequenceBegin by marking all obstruc-

tions, such as hose bibs, sprin-klers, electrical outlets andvalve boxes, with the marking flags.This will help prevent site damage as wellas damage to the renovation equipment.The turfgrass should then be scalped. Thisaccomplished by mowing at a height 30to 50 percent lower than the currentheight of cut.

Ideally a mower with baskets or a bag-ging attachment should be used to facil-itate catching clippings. Scalping is fol-

lowed by heavy verticutting. The verti-cutter should be set so the blades pen-etrate completely through the thatchlayer and at least 1/4-inch into theunderlying soil. Blade spacing dependson the species of turf grass involved. Ingeneral, longer internodes require widerblade spacings. Recommendations for ver-ticutter blade spacings for various turf-

necessary to verticut a second time.Debris should be removed prior to the sec-ond verticutting to prevent clogging anddrag on the equipment.

The second verticutting should beoriented at a right angle to the directionof the first verticutting. Debris should beremoved again using the sweeper afterthe second verticutting. Follow the

sweeper with a turfgrass vac-uum to remove fine mat if pos-sible. On bunch grasses, orgrasses that have stolons only,take care not to remove toomuch of the verdure. Enoughvegetative material mustremain to facilitate the recov-ery of the turf. Grasses withunderground rhizomes can bescalped and verticut much

more vigorously and still recover in a rea-sonable period of time. Be prepared,and prepare the customer for brown"unthrifty" turf immediately after the ren-ovation.

Coring (aerification) is an optional nextstep. This step should, definitely beincluded if a compaction or surface-lay-ering problems exist. If severe thatchproblems exists, the cores should be

As a rule of thumb, renovationshould not be attempted unlessabout 60 percent of the area is

covered by the desirable species.

grass species are as follows:- One to 3 inches - Bermudagrass,

creeping bentgrass, zoysiagrass, redfescue, bahiagrass, centipedegrass.

-Two to 3 inches - Kentucky blue-grass, St. Augustinegrass, carpetgrass.

-Three inches - Tall fescue.After verticutting, surface debris

should be removed using the sweeper. Inheavily thatched turfgrasses, it may be

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removed. Ifmost of the cores consist ofdesirable topsoil, they should be allowedto dry, broken up and scattered overthe surface using a steel drag mat. If thecores resist breaking up with a dragmat, they can be scattered with the ver-ticutter reset to skim the surface of theturf.

Lime and fertilizer should be appliedprior to topdressing or dragging in aer-ifier cores. This helps get the lime andphosphorous down into the soil profile.Rates should be based on soil test results.If soil test results are not available,apply 2 pounds of phosphorus and 1pound of nitrogen and potassium per 1,000square feet. Approximately one-half ofthe nitrogen and potassium should befrom a slow-release source, such as a sul-fur or resin-coated product. Determineif the soil is acidic using pH paper or ahomeowner-type pH kit. Apply dolomitelime to acidic sites at 50 pounds per1,000 square feet for sand soils or 100pounds per 1,000 square feet for finer tex-ture soils such as loams or clays.

Topdressing is an essential next step.It smooths the surface, helps digestremaining thatch and stimulates newgrowth. Approximately 0.75 cubic yards

of topdressing should be applied per1,000 square feet. This will provide a layerapproximately 1/4-inch thick. If aerifi-er cores are removed, an additional 2 to3 cubic yards of topdressing per 1,000square feet, depending on tine size andspacing, will be required to fill the aer-ifier holes.

Topdressing material should be ster-ile to prevent introduction of weeds andother pests and pathogens. It shouldbe similar in texture to the existing soilto prevent layering problems and screenedto remove foreign matter such as stones.

Topdressing should also be allowed todry after application and then draggedor broomed into the surface. If coresare not removed, topdressing and corescan be dragged simultaneously. If addi-tional seed is required, it may be appliedimmediately after topdressing anddragged or broomed in with the material.Alternatively, seed can be planted atthis time without using a disk seeder.

Any large areas that are very thin,completely bare or devoid of desirable turf-grass, will require replanting. Thisshould be accomplished by strippingthese areas and following normal estab-lishment procedures. Potentially, these

areas can be plugged from areas that havehealthy stands.Mtercare

When necessary replanting is complete,the entire area should be treated like anew planting. Many renovations faildue to improper post-renovation care.Newly renovated turf is weakened, openand prone to becoming hydrophobic.Light, frequent irrigation, 0.1 inchesapplied two or three times a day, will benecessary on dry, hot days. Irrigation fre-quency can be gradually decreased to nor-mal as the turfgrass becomes re-estab-lished. An application of 0.5 pounds ofwater-soluble nitrogen per 1,000 squarefeet, approximately two weeks afterrenovation, will also help speed therecovery process. Judicious monitoringfor insects of diseases will also be nec-essary because of the conditions creat-ed by high-fertility and frequent irrigation.

Renovation works! Properly plannedand executed, it's a cost-effective alter-native to replanting when possible. Thekeys are careful evaluation and takingthe process one step at a time.

Editor's note: John Wildmon is aninstructorat Lake City Community Collegein Lake City, FL.

Circle 110 on Postage Free Card

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May, 1993 17