Butterflies of the Balkans - Bulgaria, Macedonia and Greece

Sunday 3rd

- Sunday 17th

July 2016Trip report by Dr. Mario Langourov

Tour leader: Dr. Mario Langourov1

Tour participants: Mr. Kenneth BaileyMr. Stephen MeredithMr. Peter ChaddMr. Adrian HoskinsMr.Patrick Nash

Bulgaria, 3rd

– 5th

, 19th

and 13th

– 17th

July 2016

Macedonia, 5th

– 9th

July

Greece, 9th

– 12th

July

Day 1 Sunday 3rd

July

Bulgaria – Outbound from Sofia; en route to Rila Monastery.

Weather: sunny with some clouds, still & warm (~23ºC).

Before noon I welcomed three of the participants at the Terminal 1 and together we went to Terminal 2, where the others were. Before we head for our first hotel, located near the Rila Monastery, we stopped not far from Sofia. There, among the fresh greenery, we found mud puddling Lesser Purple Emperor (Pic. 2) and Purple Emperor, and on the surrounding bushes - Map Butterfly, Holly Blue, Speckled Wood. On the road landed and posed Great Banded Grayling. When we swerved off the main road, we decided to stop and that allowed us to expand the list of the day with Scarce Swallowtail Adonis Blue Purple-shot Copper. On the branches of the bushes we saw Sloe Hairstreak and Ilex Hairstreak, along the stream landed Zephyr Blue andSandy Grizzled Skipper (Pic. 3). Lattice Brown looked for the deep shadows under the overhanging branches, while Large Blue and Checkered Blue prefered the proximity of its food plants. But we are low on time and we have no choice, but to set off to the hotel.

Day 2 Monday 4th

July

Rila Mts.

Weather: AM sunny with cloudy periods; PM cloudy with sunny periods, warm (~22ºC).

Our first site for the day was the deep river valley - a site where the highly attractive Purple Emperor and Poplar Admiral are nearly guaranteed. The first butterfly, which we saw is exactly one of our goals - Poplar Admiral! It sucked salts and described the wide circles around us, returning back to the starting point and gave us the opportunity to shoot it from different angles. Before we go further we faced with Aesculapian snake and paid it some attention. We moved to the flowering meadows to enjoy the numerous of Scarce Copper, Sooty Copper, High Brown Fritillary, Large Wall Brown and many others. We saw one of the few

Orange-Tip during the tour, and the only Scotch Argus. Taking the road, we saw the typical flight of Poplar Admiral – we stoped and found it – landed on the road, where it was besieged by our cameras(Pic. 4). We finished the photo session, adding to the list Black-veined White, Dark Green Fritillary, Large Grizzled Skipper. We retired to the hotel, where after light lunch we headed to the higher areas of the mountain. Among bushes and flowering plants we managed to find various of Fritillaries, including Fritillary, Twin-spot Fritillary, Pearl-bordered Fritillary. In wet meadow we found one of our target species - Balkan Copper(Pic. 5), and Arran Brown. there was little time for the gorgeous Rila Monastery, listed in UNESCO World Heritage List. In the yard over our heads flew swifts, which unfortunately, were too fast for Patrick and he did’t manage to shoot them. It was аbout time to retire to the comfort of the hotel and enjoy the dinner, after that we took the deserved rest after a successful day.

Day 3 Tuesday 5th

July

Rila Mt; Kresna Gorge.

Weather: sunny and hot to very hot (28ºC÷32ºC).

We set off to the Kresna Gorge – here we met several Common Gliders, and soon posed Southern White Admiral. On the flowers of the thistles stayed for long Swallowtail. We found a meadow with flowering Horehounds, which are very attractive to many types of Blues - Little Tiger Blue (Pic. 6), Eastern Baton Blue (Pic. 7), Long-tailed Blue. Along the rocks flew, with its typical flight, Krueper's Small White, while the shadows are preferred by patrolling Comma. Before noon, the temperature rised, and we visited considerably dry terrain. There were particularly numerous of Great Banded Grayling and Lesser Spotted Fritillary, and on the flowers of the surrounding plants we saw Scarce Swallowtail, Mallow Skipper. We enjoyed a pleasant lunch in the shade of centuries old Oriental Plane trees over the foaming Struma river and took en route to Macedonia. After easily crossing the border we stopped in a roadside village, just to enjoy the numerous Lesser Kestrels and because we didn’t have much time, we headed to the town of Prilep and our hotel.

Day 4 Wednesday 6th

July

Macedonia – Babuna Mt; near Kavadartsi.

Weather: sunny and very hot (~36ºC).

First we visited the slopes of Babuna mountain, where we met various of Graylings, including numerous of Great Banded Grayling, аlso Great Sooty Satyrs and Hermits. On the flowers of Elders Balkan Marbled White competed for a spot. Especially numerous were the Blue Argus (Pic. 8) posing on the grass stems and rarely flying in short distances. Later we saw the first of many Macedonian Grayling (Pic. 9), alongside it flew Cardinal and Mountain Small White. In a small valley we found Delattin's Grayling, and among the surrounding vegetation and on the flowers we saw more Chapman's Blue, Blue-spot Hairstreak. On top of a hill I found hilltopping Eastern Greenish Black-tip (Pic. 10), and we paid to it some attention. The heat was unbearable and drove us to a cool restaurant nearby. After lunch we headed to the heavily mediterranian area near Kavadarci, where the heat covered the ground… These extremely rich of species habitat was completely destroyed because of the construction of a highway, but still among the poor survivals of Mediterranean vegetation we found many Little Tiger Blue and Eastern Baton Blue. We didn’t have any choice, but to visit the surroundings of a nearby creek, where we faced with great many mud puddling butterflies. We spend the next half hour crawling on the ground, trying to cover all types and shoot the most interesting of them. It is worth to note Anomalous Blue, Reverdin's Blue, Osiris Blue, Southern Small White, Marbled Skipper.Before we return to our hotel to the list for the day we added Eastern Rock Grayling, Eastern Wood White, Balkan Green-veined White.

Day 5 Thursday 7th

July

Weather: sunny with cloudy periods; warm (25ºC).

Our first stop was near Bitola, where our attention was drawn by flowering meadows in the north foothills of Pelister (Baba) Mountain. Here on the flowers landed various of Fritillaries (Twin-spot, Silver-washed, Dark Green, High-brown, Marbled), Black-veined White, Purple-shot Copper, Pearly Heath. We saw and the first for the tour Orbed Red Underwing (Hungarian) Skipper. Returning to the parked bus, my attention was attracted by something moving among the leaves of a tree. I looked at it and found that it is very local Lesser Lattice Brown! We changed the Mediterranean habitat with a mountain one as we drove to Galitchitsa mountain. On the flowering Elders we found Ilex Hairstreak, Sloe Hairstreak, Swallowtail and Scarce Swallowtail, and on the ground landed Lattice Brown (Pic. 11) and Woodland Grayling. We had picnic lunch in a lovely secluded spot with clear mountain water and after that we admired butterflies around us. Especially numerous were Ripart's Anomalous Blue, Turquoise Blue, Meleager's Blue and on the flowers -Niobe Fritillary, Southern White Admiral. In the mountain meadows in the high area we found more Blue-spot Hairstreak (Pic. 12), Eros Blue, Idas Blue, Mazarine Blue, Spotted Fritillary, Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Knapweed Fritillary, Heath Fritillary, Lulworth Skipper. Strangely, unlike last years when Esper's Marbled White was mass, this year we saw only single exemplars. On the way back we took time to admire the panoramic view - from here you can see the Ohrid and Prespa Lakes, but it was high time to set off to the hotel, located on the shore of the lake.

Day 6 Friday 8th

July

Macedonia – Galichitsa Mt.

Weather: sunny and warm, still (23ºC).

After breakfast we headed back to Galichitsa to devote that day to exploring the mountain zones. The weather was beautiful and the mountain meadows were full of live and among many others we found AlconBlue, Amanda's Blue, Mountain Argus. During the tour, this was the only place where among profusely flowering geraniums we found Geranium Argus, and Grecian and Ripart’s Anomalous Blue provided us a great opportunity to compare them. During our pleasant walk we saw one of our target species - Freyer's Fritillary (Pic. 13), together with Yellow-banded Skipper, and around us flew Small Tortoiseshell, Clouded Yellow and Berger's Clouded Yellow. A beautiful area provided us great conditions for a picnic lunch. Among several single lower trees I faced with Lesser Lattice Browns – it flew between the branches and we spent another half hour in chasing and shooting. We moved our attention to the main target and in the surroundings we found the first Apollo, Eros Blue (Pic. 14), Zephyr Blue, but still not Russian Heath. Very common in this area are Sandy Grizzled Skipper, patrolling the high grasses. In the end, just before departure, I noticed a Russian Heath and we spent quarter of an hour with it. We returned to the hotel and after dinner we took a deserved rest.

Day 7 Saturday 9th

July

Macedonia – Galichitsa Mt, Vardar Valley; Greece – Kerkini Lake.

Weather: sunny and very hot, still (36ºC).

Before our transfer from South Macedonia to Greece we decided to take a look again to the highest site of Galichitsa. In sheltered decreases in the are among fresh greenery we saw more exemplars of yesterday observed species - Apollo, Niobe Fritillary, Turquoise Blue, Ilex Hairstreak, but Esper's Marbled White (Pic. 15) were still single. Rapid transition on the highway and we stopped in a crowded roadside restaurant, where we enjoyed a pleasant lunch in the shade of centuries old plane trees, just above the Vardar river. Not far from here we decided to look for Small Bath White, but I didn’t manage to catch any of them. However, numerous and cooperative were Eastern Bath White, which all managed to shoot. Reaching the Doiran lake, we crossed the border and headed to the hotel, situated near the Kerkini lake and in addition to the

Day 8 Sunday 10th

July

Bulgaria – Southern Struma Valley; Greece – Kerkini Lake.

Weather: sunny and very hot (35ºC).

There are keen birders in the group and before breakfast we headed to the flood, where a number of waders concentrate to feed - Egrets, Herons, Spoonbills, Glossy Ibis, Pigmy Cormorants, Dalmatian and White Pelicans, different Gulls and Terns. This amazing crowding is a magical view (Pic. 16) and we barely managed to break away, and we were even a little late for breakfast. After breakfast, we crossed the border and started to explore the southern parts of Struma Valley. By one of its tributaries butterflies are everywhere and extremely diverse - Scarce Swallowtail, Southern Small White, Balkan Green-veined White, EasternBath White, Sooty Copper, Red Admiral, Peacock, Painted Lady. We found and the first of the tour Gatekeeper. On the sandy riverbank sucked salts numerous of Dingy Skipper, Chapman's Blue, Lang's Short-tailed Blue and Long-tailed Blue, the last listed varied in size so, that there was even smaller than the previous type. It was too hot and we sett of for a lunch at a roadside restaurant, on the walls there we saw Kotschy's Gecko. On the walk after lunch we added to the list for the day several Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Orbed Red Underwing Skipper, Oriental Marbled Skipper and Mallow Skipper. Unfortunately, we didn’t find Lesser Fiery Copper yet. We returned at the southern foothills of Belasitsa mountain, where we stopped near the shores of Lake Kerkini and among coastal vegetation we saw many Large Copper (Pic. 17), Lang's Short-tailed Blue, Short-tailed Blue, Holly Blue. Late afternoon we retired to our hotel to rest after the long and pretty hot day.

Day 9 Monday 11th

July

Greece – above Sidirokastro; Vrondous Mt; Bozdag (Falakro) Mt.

Weather: sunny and warm (26ºC).

On the road again, but first we explored the valley north of Sidirocastro, between the mountains of Alibotoush and Vrondous. In a dry river valley we found the first Freyer Grayling (Pic. 18), retaining mainly on the branches of the surrounding trees, but some moved down to the sand and stones of the dry riverbed. On a low branch I saw a crowding of six exemplars, sucking juices from the stem! Here they cohabit with Eastern Wood White, Little Tiger Blue, Large White. In the flowering bushes near a fountain and among other species we admired to Hermit, Lattice Brown, Lang's Short-tailed Blue. We continued to Bozdag mountain, crossing the Vrondous mountain. We enjoyed a picnic lunch in the shade of old Alders near ripplе brook and a fountain with cold mountain water. Then we looked around and that brought us relatively common species, and over our heads flew Sombre Goldenring and Broad-bodied Chaser. In the early afternoon we reached the lower site of Bozdag mountain, where was full of life. On the ground for salts landed different species Blues Blues - Anomalous Blue (Pic. 19), Grecian Anomalous Blue (Pic. 19), Ripart’sAnomalous Blue, Zephyr Blue, Turquoise Blue, Amanda's Blue, Meleager's Blue and in the shady bushes we saw Eastern Short-tailed Blue, Short-tailed Blue, Niobe Fritillary, Queen of Spain Fritillary and Gatekeeper.Time passed and we turned to our hotel. There we were warm welcomed by the owners with delicious traditional food.

Day 10 Tuesday 12th

July

Greece – Bozdag (Falakro) Mt.

Weather: sunny and warm to hot (20ºC÷30ºC).

We started from the top part of the mountain (above 2000 m. a.s.l.) to take advantage of the good weather.There are too little and mostly common species Eastern Large Heath Small Small Tortoiseshell

Mazarine Blue and many Painted Ladies. Down to the slopes, over the roadside rocks among others we found Black Ringlet (Pic. 20), Safflower Skipper, Great Sooty Satyr (Pic. 21), Geranium Argus, Mountain Argus. In a small mountain valley we found the local endemic Phalakron Blue, alongside with Eros Blue, Purple-shot Copper, Brimstone, Yellow-banded Skipper, Heath Fritillary. We stopped again after a few kilometers and near small trough pond we saw Escher's Blue (Pic. 22), Nettle-Tree Butterfly, Mountain Small White, Grecian Anomalous Blue, Alcon Blue, Eastern Rock Grayling. After having our picnic in roadside bowerwith great panoramic view to the valleys, we explored the surroundings, which brought us Higgins's and Phalakron Anomalous Blue, Dusky Meadow Brown, Chalk-hill Blue, Hermit, Dusky Meadow Brown, Cardinal, Glanville Fritillary. We moved down to the foot of the mountain and finished the day in the company of Eastern Baton Blue, Little Tiger Blue, Geranium Bronze. Here we found, also the so wanted by Patrick, Lesser Fiery Copper, which about a half an hour was chased in the surrounding meadows.

Day 11 Wednesday 13th

July

Bulgaria – South Pirin Mt; Papaztchair.

Weather: sunny and warm (22ºC÷25ºC).

We crossed the border and soon we were in the southern foothills of Pirin Mountain. The weather was favorable again - sunny and warm, but the first side, that we visited was strangely empty and completely different with previous years. On the flowers of the surrounding plants we found Scarce Swallowtail, Purple-shot Copper, Scarce Copper, Weaver's Fritillary, Map Butterfly, Southern White Admiral. After our lunch in a pleasant restaurant we headed to the near mountain pass. The richness of species here was significant and in addition to dragonflies and many orchids we found many interesting butterflies. Near a small stream, over which patrolled Sombre Goldenring, were landed Nettle-Tree Butterfly and Purple Emperor, and scared of us Camberwell Beauty flew out. Subsequently, it returned to the same place and stayed briefly. Of a moist sand were gathered and thirstily sucked salts different types of Blues - Amanda's Blue, Turquoise Blue, Meleager's Blue, Chalk-hill Blue, Small Blue, Adonis Blue…Abreast of one another, ideal for comparison, posed the similar types Higgins' Anomalous Blue and Ripart's Anomalous Blue, away from them we saw Eros Blue. Among the surrounding vegetation flew Arran Brown, Woodland Grayling and Lang's Short-tailed Blue, on the stones basked Large Wall Brown. We shot them in various angles around half an hour and it was time to head north to our next hotel, located in the picturesque village of Dobarsko.

Day 12 Thursday 14th

July

Pirin Mt.

Weather: sunny and warm; still (22ºC÷25ºC).

We went again at above 2000 meters – our first goal is Vihren hut, where we took downhill to Bunderitsa.Our main goals were different alpine butterfly species, including Ringlets and Fritillaries. Especially numerous were Ottoman Brassy Ringlets, rarely among them came and shy posed Large Ringlet, Arran Brown, Bright-eyed Ringlet. There were numbers of Eastern Large Heath - very common in this area, among the stones we found Nothern Wall Brown. Freshness into the landscape imported Orange-Tip, flying aroundus. For the first time during the tour we faced with Clouded Apollo (Pic. 24) and Balkan Fritillary, presented by many specimens. With shouts and whistling flew around Nutcrackers and Crossbils, but we pay more attention to our feet, which allowed us to see Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Mazarine Blue, Large Grizzled Skipper. One of the stars of the day become the extremely cooperative Phalakron Blue (Pic. 25) and we spent a quarter of an hour with it. In the coolness of the highest mountain we had lunch and observed a number of mud puddling butterflies. The afternoon we spent at the wet meadows in the low zone of the mountain and complemented the list with a number of species, including Eastern Wood White, Pearly Heath, Ilex Hairstreak, Sooty Copper, Reverdin's Blue, Idas Blue, Knapweed Fritillary. On the flowers were the largest of Fritillaries – Cardinal and Silver-washed Fritillary, and from the surrounding branches flew down Red Admiral In wide meadow Cross Gentians were laden with eggs of Alcon Blue, and soon we found the

first specimens that cohabit here with Large Blue. Among patch of flowering plants we saw the first Balkan Copper – big pleasure of Patrick, for whom Coppers are target species. All were in the bus, when I saw some quite cooperative Graylings and the participants returned for a brief photo session. In Dobursko we enjoyed the sunset over Pirin, while tasting traditional dishes.

Day 13 Friday 15th

July

Rila Mt.

Weather: cloudy and rainy in the mountain; sunny and warm lowlands (16ºC÷26ºC).

Crossing the Rila mountain, we stopped near a mountain stream, where we found four types of Coppers, including very fresh exemplars Balkan Copper. We went again at above 2000 meters but the sky was sulky, it was about to rain. But we continued on the path, leading us higher and higher in the mountain. Around us flew Bulgarian Ringlet, Ottoman Brassy Ringlet, Arran Brown, Bright-eyed Ringlet, Balkan Fritillary (Pic. 26), Eastern Large Heath. It started to rain and we took back. When the main group were near the bus, we didn’t find there the two, who went first. After three-quarters of an hour they appeared, it turned out that they have gone astray and wandered in the vicinity ... We continued, hoping for a better weather in the valley. Our decision was very felicitous – it was really sunny and warm there and butterflies were active. First among the branches we saw Common Glider, then Orbed Red Underwing (Hungarian) Skipper, Dingy Skipper, Marbled Fritillary, Comma. Later in clouds of Marbled White and Weaver's Fritillary we found Provençal Short-tailed Blue and Short-tailed Blue, but the main attraction were some very fresh Dryad. Among the beautiful flowering vegetation we observed just metamorphosed to imago - female Brown Hairstreak (Pic. 27), which was very cooperative. In the late afternoon we reached the hotel, nestled in a virgin forest in the northern foothills of the Rila Mountains.

Day 14 Saturday 16th

July

Rila Mt; Iskar Valley.

Weather: AM cloudy with brief sunny spells, cool; PM sunny and warm, still (12ºC÷23ºC).

Despite cloudy sky and unfavorable forecast we decided to take the cabin lift to the high area of Rila mountain. Against the clounds around the backdrop of the Balkan champion (Musala Peak, 2925 m) we made a group photo for memory (Pic. 1). Our main goal here was Cynthia's Fritillary, and the beginning wasn’t very promising - thick cover of clouds and cool. Sometimes the happiness smiled in form of short sunny smiles, made their way through the clouds. In these moments, like from the ground appeared several Ringlets. Most numerous were precisely one of our target species here Nicholl's Ringlet (Pic. 28), followed by Large Ringlet and Bright-eyed Ringlet. Ken found and fresh female Cynthia's Fritillary (Pic. 29), thanks to the weather all managed to take excellent photos. A little tired but very happy we went down to the valley, where it was sunny and warm. Near the river we found many Scarce Swallowtail, Dark Green Fritillary, Map Butterfly. Around puddles, remaining from yesterday's rain gathered Argus, Lang's Short-tailed Blue, Silver-studded Blue, Marbled Skipper. At the end of the day we retired to the hotel to enjoy the farewell dinner and satisfied rest.

Day 15 Sunday 17th

July

Transfer to Sofia Airport.

We took the road to Sofia, and still we had time to stop again along Iskar river, but participants prefered to head to the airport. The tour time flew imperceptibly and we said goodbye with the intention to meet again in the coming years.

The final balance - two weeks spent in the most interesting and picturesque places in the Balkans and over again 150 species of butterflies!

Pic.1. At Rila Mts. Left to right: Mario, Stephen, Peter, Adrian, Ken, Patrick

Pic.2. Lesser Purple Emperor (Apatura ilia) Pic.3. Sandy Grizzled Skipper (Pyrgus cinarae)

Pic.4. Purple Emperor (Apatura iris) Pic.5. Balkan Copper (Lycaena candens)

Pic.6. Little Tiger Blue (Tarucus balkanicus) Pic.7. Eastern Baton Blue (Pseudophilotes vicrama)

Pic.8. Blue Argus (Aricia anteros) Pic.9. Macedonian Grayling (Pseudochazara cingovskii)

Pic.10. Eastern Greenish Black-tip (Euchloe penia) Pic.11. Lattice Brown (Kirinia roxelana)

Pic.12. Blue-spot Hairstreak (Satyrium spini) Pic.13. Freyer's Fritillary (Melitaea arduinna)

Pic.14. Eros Blue (Polyommatus eros) Фиг.15. Esper's Marbled White (Melanargia russiae)

Pic.16. Kerkini Lake Pic.17. Large Copper (Lycaena dispar)

Pic.18. Freyer’s Grayling (Hipparchia fatua) Pic.19. Two Grecian Anomalous Blue (Polyommatus aroaniensis) and Anomalous Blue, in the middle

(Polyommatus admetus)

Pic.20. Black Ringlet (Erebia melas) Pic.21. Great Sooty Satyr (Satyrus ferula)

Pic.22. Escher's Blue (Polyommatus escheri) Pic.23. Apollo (Parnassius apollo)

Pic.24. Clouded Apollo (Parnassius mnemosyne) Pic.25. Phalakron Blue (Polyommatus andronicus)

Pic.26. Balkan Fritillary (Boloria graeca) Pic.27. Brown Hairstreak (Thecla betulae)

Pic.28. Nicholl's Ringlet (Erebia rhodopensis) Pic.29. Cynthia's Fritillary (Euphydryas cynthia)