Burda's Instruction a-D

FALL 2014 burdastyle.com 67

project instructions

102- 082014-USLong jacket !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 32Finished back length: 371⁄2" (95 cm)

MaterialsCrushed linen, 54" (137 cm) wide, cut on bias: size 36: 33⁄4 yds (3.4 m); size 38: 37⁄8 yds ( 3.5 m); size 40: 4 yds (3.6 m); size 42: 41⁄8 yds (3.7 m); size 44: 41⁄4 yds (3.80 m)Stretch lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 13⁄4 yds (1.6 m) for all sizes Interfacing

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

PreparationTrace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Note different grainlines for main fabric and lining on pieces 1 and 2. Trace pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Cut the pocket pieces of main fabric and lining on straight grain (see cutting layouts).

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown in cutting layouts and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Linen:1 front with integrated yoke, cut 21 pocket piece, cut 22 back, cut 23 upper sleeve, cut 24 under sleeve, cut 25 collar, cut 2 as a bias piece (see layout)6 front facing, cut 27 back facing, cut 1 on folda) 2 belt carriers, a total of 8" (20 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances b) tie belt, a total of: size 36: 71" (180 cm); size 38: 723⁄4" (185 cm); sizes 40, 42: 75" (190 cm); size 44: 763⁄4" (195 cm) long, and 31⁄4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Lining: 1 front, cut 2 to lining line 1 pocket, cut 22 back, cut 2 to lining line3 upper sleeve, cut 24 under sleeve, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on pattern layout. Fuse interfacing to undercollar piece. Also interface hem allowances.

Construction Q Stitch center back seam. Press seam

allowances open. Stitch back darts and press toward center. Stitch front darts, beginning exactly at marked neck edge. Cut darts open to within 11⁄4" (3 cm) from the point. Press darts open, pressing dart points flat.

Q Stitch integrated back yokes of front pieces to back. Press seam allowances toward yokes. Stitch darts in front facings. Stitch shoulder seams of facing. Press seam allowances open.

Q Notched collar and front edges: With right sides together, pin facing to jacket, easing in a little extra fullness at lapel corners. Stitch facing to front and lapel edges, as far as seam mark. Leave facing lying on jacket, right sides together, for time being. Stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, easing a little extra fullness onto top collar and beginning and ending stitching exactly at attachment edge seamline. Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch undercollar to neck edge of jacket. Stitch upper collar piece to facing. Press collar attachment seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Pin collar attachment seams together exactly. Turn back facing up and stitch seam allowances together, close to collar attachment seam. Turn facing down again.

Q Inseam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances of pocket opening edges–pocket lining in front and linen pocket in back. Stitch linen pockets in place, along marked seamline. Stitch pocket lining pieces to seam allowances 1⁄4" (6 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces forward, trim evenly and stitch together.

Q Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place, leaving facing edges free.

Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2Pattern pieces 1 to 7Size 36 3333

Size 38 4444

Size 40 55

Size 42 6666

Size 44 7777 Cutting layoutsCrushed linen, 54" (137 cm) wide

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout, right sides together.

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

Selvedges

Selvedges

NZ_BS1311_102T

BS_067-100_Instructions_Fall_14_FINAL.indd 67 7/21/14 6:07 PM


68 burdastyle.com FALL 2014

103- 082014-USJacket !!!


Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 50Finished back length: 19" (48 cm)Sleeves: 6" (15 cm) shorter than normal

Materials Tweed, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 13⁄4 yds (1.6 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 36: 11⁄8 yd (1 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 11⁄4 yds I1.1 m) InterfacingNotions: 8 buttons; 2 flat inside buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Buttonholes and button markings on piece 21 are for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark top buttonhole same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom buttonhole is same for all sizes. Center other buttonhole exactly between. Mark new button positions accordingly.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Tweed:21 front, cut 222 side, cut 2

23 back, cut 1 on a fold24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 225 sleeve back with yoke, cut 226 under sleeve, cut 227 collar, cut 2 on fold28 front facing, cut 229 back facing, cut 1 on folda) 2 front hem bands: size 36: 111⁄4" (29 cm); size 38: 12" (30.5 cm); size 40: 121⁄2" (31.5 cm); size 42: 13" (33 cm); size 44: 131⁄2" (34 cm) long; 1 back hem band, size 36: 191⁄2" (49.5 cm); size 38: 201⁄2" (52 cm); size 40: 211⁄4" (54 cm); size 42: 223⁄8" (56.5 cm); size 44: 231⁄8" (58.5 cm) long, each 31⁄4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) 2 sleeve bands: size 36: 13" (33 cm); size 38: 131⁄2" (34 cm); size 40: 135⁄8" (34.5 cm); size 42: 133⁄4" (35 cm); size 44: 141⁄4" (36 cm) long, and 31⁄4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesLining: 21 front, cut 2 to lining line22 side, cut 223 back, cut 1 with 3⁄4" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 to lining line25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2 minus neck facing 26 under sleeve, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Interface outer half of waistband and outer half of each sleeve band.

Construction Q Stitch side pieces to fronts and back,

easing fronts from • to •. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch under sleeves to front and back sleeve (seam numbers 3 and 4). Stitch center seam on back yoke. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch front yokes to fronts from neck edge to corner. Clip yoke seam allowances into corners. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, from front corner to back corner (seam number 5), matching seam marks 6. Clip seam allowance of back yoke into corners. Stitch back yoke to back from corner to corner. Press seam allowances toward yokes and toward sleeves above underarm curves.

Q Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Stitch facing shoulder seams.

Q Gather lower sleeve edges to match sleeve bands. Stitch ends of each sleeve band together. With wrong sides

Q Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.

Q With right sides together, fold belt carrier strip lengthwise. Stitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) from folded edge. Turn strip right-side out and cut into 2 equal length pieces. Turn ends of belt carriers under to a finished length of 23⁄4" (7 cm). Stitch belt carriers to jacket as marked.

Q Sew lining: On lining backs, stitch center back seam allowances together. Stitch darts and seams. Set in sleeve linings.

Q Line jacket; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge, matching yoke attachment seams to seam marks on back facing. With wrong sides together, lay lining in jacket, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn lining hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length down and press.

Q With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Trim each end at an angle. Stitch edges together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew seam opening closed.

Green pattern line, sheets A1-A2Pattern pieces 21 to 29Size 36 AAAAA

Size 38 ===

Size 40 CCC

Size 42 67 67

Size 44 EEEEE

Cutting layout Tweed, 60" (152.5 cm) wide

Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

Selvedges

Fold

NZ_BS1309_103T




103.1- 082014-USCoat !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1k9sLFD

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 61Finished back length: 38" (97 cm)

MaterialsBouclé, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 23⁄4 yds (2.5 m); sizes 38, 40: 27⁄8 yds (2.6 m); sizes 42, 44: 3 yds (2.65 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40: 2 yds (1.8 m); sizes 42, 44: 25⁄8 yds (2.4 m)InterfacingNotions: 6 large sew-on snap fasteners


PreparationTrace pieces 1, 3, 4-6, 10, and 11 from pattern sheet. Trace front yoke with integrated sleeve up to band attachment line. Cut out all paper pieces.Snap fasteners marked on piece 10 are for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark top snap same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom snap is same for all sizes. Space other snaps evenly between.Front lining piece: Lay pieces 3 and 4 together; this creates a small space at side edge which will become a small pleat. See pattern layout.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Bouclé: 1 front yoke with sleeve, cut 2 3 upper front, cut 2 4 lower front, cut 2 5 back yoke with sleeve, cut 2 6 back, cut 2

10 front band with self-facing, cut 211 back facing, cut 1 on folda) 2 pocket pieces, 63⁄8" ! 63⁄8"(16 ! 16 cm)Lining: 1 front yoke with sleeve, cut 2 to lining line3, 4 upper and lower front, cut 2 to lining line5 back yoke with sleeve, cut 2 minus neck facing6 back, cut 2a) 2 pocket pieces, 63⁄8" ! 63⁄8" (16 ! 16 cm) Interfacing:Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout. Also interface hem allowances.

Construction Q With right sides together, pin each

pocket lining piece to pocket opening edge of lower front piece. Stitch to seam allowance, 1⁄4" (6 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces up and understitch close to attachment seams. With right sides together, lay each bouclé pocket piece on upper fronts between markings. Stitch to seam allowances 3⁄16" (5 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces down.

Q Stitch upper fronts to lower fronts, leaving pocket openings free. Press seam allowances open and press pocket pieces down. Trim pocket pieces evenly and stitch edges together.

Q Stitch center seams on back and back yoke. Press seam allowances open.

Q Yokes with integrated sleeves: Stitch each front yoke with sleeve to front piece, from seam number 6 to corner. Clip seam allowances of front yokes into corners. Stitch sleeve fronts to front armhole edges. Stitch back yoke with sleeves to back, from corner to corner. Clip seam allowance of yoke into corners. Stitch sleeve backs to back armhole edges. Press seam allowances of yoke attachment seams open. Press seam allowances of sleeve attachment seams toward sleeves.

Q Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q Stitch front bands to fronts. Press seam allowances open.

Q Neck edge: Turn self-facings to outside and stitch to back facing. With right sides together, stitch facing to neck edge. Trim seam allowances diagonally across front

together, fold and press sleeve bands in half. Stitch sleeve band edges together to lower sleeve edges, matching sleeve band seams to lower sleeve seams. Press seam allowances up.

Q On hem band, stitch side seams. Stitch hem band to lower jacket edge. Press seam allowances open.

Q On lining back, baste ease pleat. Press pleat to one side and baste to upper and lower edges. Stitch lining seams. Gather lower edge of sleeve lining. With right sides together, stitch lining to inside jacket facing edge. Press seam allowances toward lining.

Q With right sides together, pin facing and lining to jacket. Fold hem band half to outside and stitch inside hem band edges to lower facing edges (not to lining), right sides together. Clip seam allowance of waistband 3⁄8" (1 cm) from inside facing edge. Press seam allowances open toward front edge. Stitch along front waistband ends, front edges, and neck edges, up to seam mark. Leave facing and lining lying on jacket, right sides together, for the time being.

Q With right sides together, stitch collar pieces along outer edges, beginning and ending exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar right-side out and press. Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch undercollar to neck edge of jacket and stitch top collar to facing. Press seam allowances of collar attachment seams open. Turn facing and lining to inside and turn hem band right side out. Pin collar attachment seams together. Reach between outer fabric and lining to grasp collar attachment seam allowances and pull them out. Stitch seam allowances together close to seams. Push collar attachment seams in place again. Lay inside hem band edge flat over attachment seam. Stitch from right side along attachment seam, catching inner edge.

Q Pull sleeve linings into jacket sleeves. At each sleeve seam, turn lining edge under and pin to sleeve band attachment seam with a single straight pin. Reach between outer fabric and lining to first pull out lower edges of one sleeve. Remove pin but hang on to edges. With right sides together, stitch lower edges of sleeve and lining together. From jacket right side, pull sleeve out and sleeve lining into jacket sleeve. Stitch lining of other sleeve in same manner.

Q Turn open lining edge under and sew to waistband attachment seam.

Q Stitch buttonholes in right front. On left front, stitch top buttonhole for inside button. Stitch a buttonhole in each end of hem band, for inside button on the left. Lay jacket closed, matching center fronts. Sew buttons in place, to match buttonholes and as marked.




lengthwise and stitch across bottom. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge and pin to facing. Stitch facing to underlap, close to zipper attachment seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to end, catching underlap.

Q Waistband and center back seam: Stitch outer waistband pieces to upper trouser edge. Leave right waistband end extending from center front. Stitch left waistband to underlap and leave remainder extending. Press seam allowances of attachment seams toward waistband pieces. With right sides together, lay inside waistband pieces on attached waistband pieces and stitch upper edges together. Turn inside waistband pieces up and understitch close to seam. Trim extending right waistband end 3⁄8" (1 cm) before center front. Attach trouser hook to inside waistband piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) from right waistband end. Stitch center back seam on trousers and waistband. Press seam allowances open from upper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along curve. At front waistband ends, lay inside waistband on outside waistband and turn seam allowance on inside waistband edge up. Stitch across waistband ends. Turn waistband right-side out. Turn in underlap edges and sew together. Turn inside waistband edge under for 15⁄8" (4 cm) long, and baste, then lay remaining edge flat over attachment seam. From trouser right side, stitch along attachment seam, catching inside waistband edge. Attach fastener bar to waistband, to match hook location. Stitch buttonhole in left waistband end for inside button.

Q Press hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

104- 082014-USCoat !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1lHaVGz


MaterialsTweed, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 31⁄8 yds (2.8 m); size 40: 31⁄4 yds (2.85 m);

103B- 082014-USTrousers !!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1nwQ0bG

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 42Finished side length including waistband: 413⁄4" (106 cm)Waistband sits 3⁄8" (1 cm) below natural waistlineLeg hem circumference: 241⁄2" (62 cm)

Materials Jacquard, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 17⁄8 yds (1.65 m); size 38, 40, 42, 44: 21⁄4 yds (2 m) Interfacing Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 36, 38, 40: 5" (12 cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14 cm) long; 1 trouser hook fastener; 1 flat inside button


PreparationTrace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Lengthen piece 21 as indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening is marked for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark stitching line same distance from center front as for size 36, noting length of opening.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Jacquard:21 front trouser, cut 221 pocket, cut 4 22 back trouser, cut 223 waistband, cut 4a) left underlap: sizes 36, 38, 40: 5" (12.5 cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14.5 cm) long, and 3" (7 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesInterfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.

Construction Q Stitch back darts and press toward

center. Stitch forward side seams, leaving pocket openings free. Press seams open.

Q In-seam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances on inside of pocket opening edges. Stitch in place directly along marked seamlines. Above pocket openings, stitch pocket pieces close to seam. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch edges together. Baste upper pocket edges in place. At each end of each pocket opening, make a few stitches horizontally.

Q Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch center front seam from opening mark to inside leg seam.

Q Insert zipper: Press self-facings on opening edges to inside. On the right, stitch along center front and on left, stitch 3⁄16" (5 mm) before center front. Topstitch close to right opening edge. Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underlap), close to teeth. Pin opening closed, matching center fronts. Stitch loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving trouser piece free. Baste facing in place. Topstitch opening from upper edge to 11⁄4" (3 cm) before end as marked. With right sides together, fold underlap piece

corners. At neck edge, turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside and press edges.

Q Fold small pleat in each front lining piece and baste. Stitch lining seams.

Q Sew in lining; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn lining edge under along hem edge and press fold lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and pin to hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra lining length down and press lightly. On each sleeve, turn lining edge under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length down and press.

Q Stitch front coat edges along lines of band attachment seams.

Q Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew top halves of snaps to right front facing as marked, not exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay coat closed, matching center fronts. Mark placement of bottom halves of snaps on left front band. Sew bottom halves of snaps in place. Close pocket openings with one snap each.




Q Inseam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances of pocket opening edges, pinning pocket lining pieces to fronts and tweed pocket pieces to side pieces. Stitch pocket pieces in place, directly along marked seamlines. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch edges together.

Q Stitch sides to back. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch under sleeves to front and back sleeves (seam numbers 3 and 4). Stitch center back yoke seam. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch front yokes to fronts, from neck edge to corner. Clip yoke seam allowances into corners. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, from front corner to back corner (seam number 5), matching seam marks. Clip back yoke seam allowance into corners. Stitch back yoke to back, from corner to corner. Press seam allowances toward yokes and toward sleeves above underarm curve.

Q Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q With right sides together, pin facing to coat. Stitch along front and neck edges, up to seam mark. Leave facing lying on coat, right sides together, for time being.

Q With right sides together, stitch outer collar edges, beginning and ending exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar right-side out and press. Lay collar between coat and facing. Stitch undercollar to coat neck edge and stitch top collar to facing. Press seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Press front edges. Pin collar attachment seams together. In back, turn facing up again and understitch close to collar attachment seam. Turn facing down.

Q At hem edge, unfold facing. Press hem allowance to inside, then turn down again.

Q On lining back, stitch ease pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5 cm) long, and baste between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining seams.

Q Line coat; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edges. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn lining under along hem edge and press folded edge

sizes 42, 44: 33⁄8 yds (3 m) Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 21⁄4 yds (2.05 m); size 40: 21⁄2 yds (2.2 m); sizes 42, 44: 25⁄8 yds (2.25 m) Interfacing Notions: 8 buttons; 2 flat inside buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 21, 23, and 28 as indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all pattern pieces. Buttonholes and button markings on piece 21 are for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark top buttonhole the same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom buttonhole is at the same location for all sizes. Mark remaining buttonholes between. Mark new button positions accordingly.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Tweed:21 front, cut 221 pocket, cut 222 side, cut 223 back, cut 1 on fold24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 225 sleeve back with yoke, cut 226 under sleeve, cut 227 collar, cut 2 on fold28 front facing, cut 229 back facing, cut 1 on foldLining: 21 front, cut 2 to lining line21 pocket, cut 222 side, cut 223 back, cut 1 with 3⁄4" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 to lining line 25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2 minus neck facing26 under sleeve, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. Also interface hem allowances.

Construction Q Stitch side pieces to fronts, easing

fronts from • to •. Leave pocket openings free. Press seam allowances open.

104B- 082014-USDress !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1tqUSCR

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 43Finished length from waist: 253⁄4" (65 cm)

Materials Washed crêpe satin, 54" (137 cm): sizes 36, 38, 40: 3 yds (2.7 m); sizes 42, 44: 31⁄8 yds (2.75 m)InterfacingNotions: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Tape pieces 1 and 1a together as marked and lengthen as indicated. Lengthen piece 2 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Washed crêpe satin: 1 front with sleeves, cut 12 back with sleeve, cut 23 side, cut 24 lower sleeve, cut 25 back neck facing, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. On front piece, fuse a strip 123⁄4" (32 cm) long and 1" (2.5 cm) wide to wrong side of fabric, over pleat stitching line, up to pleat fold. Fuse small pieces of interfacing to wrong side of fabric, over corners

lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and pin to coat hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowances. Lay extra length of sleeve linings down and press.

Q Stitch buttonholes in right front. On left front, stitch top and bottom buttonholes for inside buttons. Sew buttons in place, to match buttonholes as marked.




Materials Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 13⁄8 yds (1.2 m) for all sizes InterfacingNotions: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace the facing from pieces 1 and 2 as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Stretch jersey:1 right front skirt, cut 11 right side front facing, cut 12 left front skirt, cut 12 left side front facing, cut 13 back skirt, cut 24 front facing, cut 1 on fold5 back facing, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Q Stitch front and back darts. Press darts

toward centers.

Q With right sides together, pin side front facings to corresponding front skirt panels. Beginning at side seam edge, stitch along marked seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facings over seam allowances and understitch close to seams. Turn facings to inside and press edges. Baste facings to side seam edges.

Q With wrong side facing right side and matching center fronts, lay right skirt front over left skirt front. Baste together along upper and side edges.

Q Sew invisible zipper at center back opening (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch side seams on skirt and facing.

Q Upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pin facing to upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn facing ends back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam allowances on skirt opening edges to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at

105A- 082014-USSkirt !!


Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 50Finished length: 233⁄4" (60 cm)

between front/back and sleeves. Also fuse strips 3⁄4" (2 cm) wide to wrong side of zipper opening edges.

Construction Q On front, lay pleat in direction of arrow

and baste. Press pleat fold. Topstitch as marked. Remove basting.

Q Side pieces and lower sleeve pieces: Stitch side pieces to front piece, from corner (seam number 1) and to back pieces, from corners (seam number 2). Clip seam allowances of front and back into corners. Stitch lower sleeve pieces to integrated sleeves of front and back (seam numbers 3 and 4). Press seams open. Stitch lower sleeve pieces to armhole edges of side pieces, from corner to corner, matching seam marks.

Q With right sides together, stitch back neck facings to neck edges of back pieces. Trim seam allowances. Turn facings up and understitch close to seams. Turn facings to inside. Press edges. Baste facing ends in place.

Q Sew invisible zipper to center back opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Begin at neck edge and leave ends of zipper tapes extending at the top. Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. Turn upper ends of zipper tapes under and sew to neck edge, together with seam allowances.

Q Turn the dress wrong side out. On front self facing, finish inside edge. With right sides together, pin back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Lay self-facing of front over the back and pin side facing ends to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances forward. Turn dress right-side out. Turn front facing to inside.

Q Press hem allowances on dress and sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2Pattern pieces 1 to 5Size 34 2222

Size 36 3333

Size 38 4444

Size 40 55

Size 42 6666

Size 44 7777

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up. Lay the asymmetric front skirt pieces on the right side of the fabric, with printed pattern side up. Lay the side facings on the right side of the fabric with their printed side down. Cut right and left pieces as opposites.

Cutting layoutStretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide

Selvedge

Selvedge

opening edges to inside. Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside, and hand-stitch to zipper tapes and seams.

Q At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn facings to inside again. Loosely hand-stitch inside facing edges in place. Sew facings to hem.

NZ_BS1309_105AT




106- 082014-USSkirt !!


Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 52Finished length: 233⁄4" (60 cm)

MaterialsSilk satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 15⁄8 yds (1.4 m) for all sizes InterfacingNotions: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Trace the facing from piece 2 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Silk satin:1 right front skirt, cut 12 left front skirt, cut 12 left side front facing, cut 13 back skirt, cut 24 front facing, cut 1 on fold5 back facing, cut 26 godet, cut 1 on foldInterfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.


toward centers.

Q With right sides together, pin side front facing to left front skirt panel. Beginning at side seam edge, stitch along marked seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing over seam allowances and understitch close to seam. Turn facing to inside and baste to side seam edge. Press faced edge.

Q With right sides together, fold godet on foldline. Stitch lower edges together. Trim seam allowances. Turn godet right-side out. Press lower edge but do not press folded edge. Baste open edges together. Stitch godet to right skirt front, from seam number 2 (side seam allowance and hem

allowance of skirt piece extend). Trim godet attachment seam allowances to 1⁄4" (6mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press away from godet. With wrong side facing right side, lay right skirt front over left skirt front matching center fronts. Baste together along upper and side edges.

Q Sew invisible zipper at center back opening (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge

Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2Pattern pieces 1 to 6Size 34 2222

Size 36 3333

Size 38 4444

Size 40 55

Size 42 6666

Size 44 7777

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up. Lay the asymmetric front skirt pieces on the right side of the fabric, with printed pattern side facing up. Lay the side facing on the right side of the fabric printed side down. Cut right and left pieces as opposites.

Cutting layoutSilk satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide

Selvedge

Selvedge

NZ_BS1309_106T

to zipper. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch side seams, leaving godet free at left side seam. Stitch side seams of facing. Press seam allowances open.

Q Upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pin facing to upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn facing ends back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam allowances on skirt opening edges to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at opening edges to inside. Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside, and hand-stitch to zipper tapes and seams.

Q At hem edge, unfold facing. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. At godet attachment seam, turn edge under and sew in place. Turn facing to inside again and sew in place over hem. Topstitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from faced edge.

108- 082014-USTop !"


Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 57Finished back length: 331⁄2" (85 cm)Sleeves: 11⁄4" (3 cm) longer than normal

Materials Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide, with a pattern repeat of 36" (90 cm): 3 5⁄8 yds (3.3 m) for all sizesAlternative: Solid stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 31⁄8 yds (2.75 m) for all sizesNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin sewing machine needle


PreparationTrace pieces 21-23, and 25 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 3⁄8" (1 cm); hem and sleeve hems: 15⁄8" (4 cm)




109- 082014-USBustier !!"


Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 56Finished length from waist: 43⁄4" (12 cm)

Extra pattern, shaded pinkSheet A1-A2, pieces 1 to 6Size 34 2222

Size 36 3333

Size 38 4444

Size 40 55

Size 42 6666

Size 44 7777

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Fine stretch jersey: 21 center front, cut 1 on fold22 center back, cut 1 on fold23 side piece with sleeve, cut 225 collar, cut 1 on foldFusible bias stay tape:Fuse to back shoulder seam edges.

ConstructionNote: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin machine needle to keep them flexible.

Q Front and back section seams: With right sides together, lay side pieces with sleeve onto center front. Pin front section seam from seam number 1 to hem edge. Stitch seams. Pin remaining edges of side and sleeve pieces to side edges of center back (seam number 2). Stitch seams. Neaten edges together and press toward centers.

Q Shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams: With right sides together, lay center

Cutting layoutsStretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide with pattern repeat

Selvedge

Selvedge

without pattern repeat

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up. Cut right and left pieces as opposites. match patterns if applicable.

Selvedge

SelvedgeNZ_BS1310_109T

Red pattern line, sheets C1-C2Pattern pieces 21 to 23 and 25Size 36 AAAAA

Size 38 ===

Size 40 CCC

Size 42 67 67

Size 44 EEEEE

NZ_BS1310_108T

front on center back, folding sleeves lengthwise. Stitch shoulder and sleeve as continuous seam – beginning at marked sleeve hem line, angle stitching to outer edge. Neaten seam allowances together and press toward back.

Q Stitch center back seam on collar. Press seam allowances open. With wrong sides together, fold collar on foldline. Stitch attachment edges of collar together to neck edge. Trim seam allowances to 1⁄4" (6 mm), neaten edges together, and press toward collar.

Q Turn hem allowances on top and sleeves to wrong side. From right side, use twin machine needle to stitch hems 11⁄4" (3 cm) from lower edges.




111- 082014-USTop !"

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1jbAOfZ

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 30Finished back length of top: 283⁄4" (73 cm)Shrug sleeves: 3" (7 cm) longer than normal

MaterialsFine jersey for top and shrug (made in one fabric), 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 21⁄8 yds (1.9 cm); sizes 40, 42: 21⁄4 yds (2 m) Fine jersey for the top, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 40, 42: 11⁄8 yd (.95 m)Fine jersey for shrug, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 11⁄8 yd (1 m); sizes 40, 42: 11⁄4 yds (1.05 m)Notions: Fusible stay tape, twin sewing machine needle



Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem and sleeve hems: 2" (5 cm)

MaterialsStretch gabardine, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 1 yd (.9 m) for all sizesLining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 11⁄8 yd (1 m)InterfacingNotions: Boning, 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) wide: 1⁄2 yd (.4 m); hook-and-eye tape: 1⁄2 yd (.4 m); elastic, 1⁄4" (6 mm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 34" (.85 m); size 38: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 40, 42: 40" (1 m); size 44: 42" (1.05 m); glue stick



Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide, Sizes 38 – 44

Cutting layouts

Gabardine, 60" (152.5 cm) wide, Sizes 34 – 44

Lining, 54" (137 cm) cm wide, Sizes 34, 36BS1310_109WS_Z

Selvedges

Fold

BS1310_109WS_Z

Fold

Selvedges

BS1310_109WS_Z

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

Selvedges Selvedges

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch gabardine:1 center front, cut 22 side front, cut 23 center back cut 24 side back, cut 25 front peplum, cut 26 back peplum, cut 2Lining and interfacing:Cut same as for gabardine. Fuse interfacing to corresponding gabardine pieces.

ConstructionSee detailed instructions for style 109-082014-US on Sew This! on page 106 of the magazine.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Top: 21 front, cut 1 on fold22 back, cut 1 on folda) back neck edge facing strip, size 34: 83⁄8" (21 cm); sizes 36, 38: 83⁄4" (22 cm); sizes 40, 42: 91⁄8" (23 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Shrug: 23 back with integrated sleeve, cut 2Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of armhole edges and back neck edge of top, and to wrong side of neck and lower edges of shrug.

ConstructionNote: Stitch seams on stretch fabrics with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin sewing machine needle to keep them flexible.

Top Q With wrong sides together, fold and

press facing strip for back neck edge lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to back neck edge so that folded edge lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch along neck edge seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge. Topstitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from neck edge.

Q With right sides together, baste back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Turn self-facing of front over back on foldline, and pin to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams. Pull back out of front. Lay facing on front. Press shoulder seams, but do not press neck edge fold. Baste facing to armhole edges.

Q On each armhole edge, press seam allowance to inside and turn edge under. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from armhole edge.

Q Stitch side seams. Trim seam allowances, neaten together, and press toward back. Hand-stitch top ends of seam allowances in place.

Q Fold hem allowance to inside and turn edge under. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 1" (2.5 cm) from lower edge.

Shrug Q Stitch center back seam. Trim seam

allowances, neaten together and press to one side.




112- 082014-USDress !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1tqTfoG


MaterialsRayon challis, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 21⁄2 yds (2.2 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 23⁄4 yds (2.5 m)InterfacingNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; elastic, 3⁄4" (1 cm) wide: size 36: 1⁄2 yd (.4 m); sizes 38, 40 ,42, 44: 5⁄8 yd (.5 m); 3 small buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Tape pieces 1 and 1A together as marked. Cut out all paper pieces. Loop marking on piece 1 is for size 36. For other sizes, move marking same distance from neck edge as for size 36.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); skirt attachment seam: 3⁄4" (2 cm); hem: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); sleeve hems: 15⁄8" (4 cm)

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Rayon challis:1 front, cut 1 on fold2 side front, cut 23 upper back, cut 24 lower back, cut 2

111.1- 082014-USJacket !!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1gUV2R6

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44on page 49Finished back length: 35" (88 cm)

Materials Sweater knit, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 34/36: 31⁄8 yds (2.8 m); sizes 38/40 and 42/44: 31⁄4 yds (2.9 m) InterfacingNotions: Fusible bias stay tape



CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Sweater knit:21 front, cut 222 back, cut 1 on fold23 sleeve, cut 224 front band, cut 425 back neck band, cut 2 on fold26 sleeve band, cut 227 pocket, cut 2a) hem band: size 34/36: 41" (104 cm); size 38/40: 441⁄4" (112 cm); size 42/44: 471⁄4" (120 cm) long, and 31⁄2" (9 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) 2 sleeve cuff bands: size 34/36: 71⁄2" (19 cm); size 38/40: 8" (20 cm); size 42/44: 83⁄8" (21 cm) long, and 8" (20 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances c) 2 belt carriers, a total of 63⁄4" (17 cm)

long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances d) tie belt, a total of: size 34/36: 61" (155 cm); size 38/40: 65" (165 cm); size 42/44: 69" (175 cm) long, and 31⁄2" (9 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout. Interface outer band pieces. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of front shoulder edges.

Construction Q Stitch shoulder seams on jacket, on

interfaced band, and on un-interfaced band. Press seams open.

Q Stitch sleeve band pieces to sleeves (seam number 4). Neaten seam allowances together and press toward bands. Stitch sleeve bands to armhole edges. Press seam allowances toward bands.

Q Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances toward back.

Q Wrong sides together, fold band in half lengthwise and press. Stitch hem band edges together to lower edge of fronts and back, stretching slightly to match. Press seam allowances up.

Q Stitch interfaced outer band to hem band, fronts, and back. Match seam mark on band to hem band attachment seam. Press allowances of hem band toward band. Above hem band, press seam allowances open, tapering allowance of front as you press. With right sides together, lay inside band on attached band. Stitch along front and neck edges. Stitch across bottom band ends. Trim seam allowances. Turn band right-side out. Lay inside band edge flat over attachment seam and baste in place. At hem band, turn inside band edge under and hand-stitch in place (taper seam allowance as you press to inside). From jacket right side, stitch along attachment seam, catching inner band edge.

Q Stitch seam on each sleeve band. Wrong sides together, fold sleeve band in half and press. Stitch sleeve band edges together to lower sleeve edge, stretching sleeve band to fit. Press seam allowances up.

Q Patch pockets: Press self-facing on each pocket upper edge to wrong side. Loosely hand-stitch inside facing edge in place. Press seam allowances on side and lower edges to inside. Pin pockets to jacket at placement lines and hand-stitch in place.

Q Belt carriers: With right sides together, fold strip for belt carriers lengthwise. Stitch

Q Press seam allowances on neck and lower edges to inside and turn edges under. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from each edge.

Q Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 3).

Q Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, turn in, and stitch in place using twin needle.

3⁄8" (1 cm) from folded edge. Turn right-side out. Cut into 2 equal lengths. Pin belt carriers to jacket as marked, turn in ends, and sew in place.

Q Fold tie belt lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch edges together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn right-side out. Sew opening closed.




5 flounce, cut 26 sleeve, cut 27 front facing, cut 1 on fold8 back facing, cut 1 on folda) bias strip for 3 loops: 6" (15 cm) long, and 3⁄4" (2 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Q Stitch center seams on upper and lower

back pieces. Press seam allowances open.

Q On front and upper back pieces, cut along center of upper darts to 3⁄4" (2 cm) before point. Gather lower dart edges between asterisks. Stitch darts. Trim dart seam allowances to 1⁄4" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press up.

Q Stitch shoulder seams on dress bodice and facing. Press seams open.

Q With right sides together, fold bias strip for loops lengthwise. Stitch 1⁄8" (3 mm) from folded edge. Turn right-side out. Do not press fabric tube flat. Cut fabric tube into 3 equal lengths and form loops.

Q Front slit and neck edge: With right sides together, pin facing to neck edge over marked center front slit. From wrong side, stitch closely around marked slit, on right side of slit leaving seam open between neck edge and seam mark. Stitch across bottom of slit, then continue stitching along marked neck edge. Slash slit between stitching lines and clip diagonally into bottom corners. On neck edge, trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. On right slit edge, lay loop between front and facing. Slide ends of loop through opening and pin to slit edge; loop size must match button. Sew seam opening closed. Turn facing to inside and press edges. Hand-stitch inside facing edge to seams.

Q Stitch upper back to front (seam number 2). Stitch lower back to side fronts (seam number 3).

Q Stitch center back flounce seam. Stitch flounce to lower edge of side fronts and lower back (seam number 4). Press seam allowances up.

Q On front, cut along center of small dart at corner between vertical and horizontal section seams, to 11⁄4" (3 cm) before point. Stitch side fronts to front, from seam number 5 to seam mark. Clip front seam allowance at seam mark. Stitch flounce to front below seam mark. Press seam allowances open.

Q Gather lower edge of front and upper back between asterisks. Stitch horizontal section seam on each side stitching from center back toward the front, then continue stitching to stitch small darts in front. Press seam allowances down and stitch as marked to form elastic casings. Cut elastic into 2 equal pieces. Insert elastic into casings and stitch ends in place, for a finished length of: size 36: 71⁄8" (18 cm); size 38: 71⁄2" (19 cm); size 40: 8" (20 cm); size 42: 83⁄8" (21 cm); size 44: 83⁄4" (22 cm).

Q Finish hem edge: Press hem allowance to wrong side. From fabric right side, stitch along folded edge with a short, closely spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim hem allowance close to stitching.

Q Sleeve with sleeve vents: Baste loops to front sleeve vent edges as marked. Turn sleeve hem allowances to outside and stitch to vent edges, exactly to marked end of vent. Turn hem allowance upper edge back and pin. Stitch sleeve seam from upper edge to slit mark. Turn hem allowance to inside, press, and hand-stitch in place.

Q Set in sleeves, gathering sleeve caps.

113- 082014-USTop !


Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 48Finished back length: 24" (60 cm)Sleeves: 15⁄8" (4 cm) longer than normal

Materials Knit lace, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40: 15⁄8 yds (1.4 m) sizes 42, 44: 13⁄4 yds (1.45 m) Small piece of lightweight woven fabric for bias strips, 14" ! 16" (35 ! 40 cm) Notions: Twin sewing machine needle



Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown

Cutting layout Knit lace, 60" (152.5 cm) wide

Fold fabric as shown in the cutting layout—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut right and left sleeves as opposites.

Selvedge

Selvedge

Fold

Blue pattern line, sheets D1-D2Pattern pieces 1 and 2Size 36 3333

Size 38 4444

Size 40 55

Size 42 6666

Size 44 7777

NZ_1309_113T

and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Knit lace:1 front and back, cut 1 on fold 2 sleeve, cut 2Woven fabric:Bias strip for neck edge, a total of: size 36: 243⁄4" (63 cm); size 38: 251⁄4" (64 cm); size 40: 253⁄4" (65 cm); size 42: 26" (66 cm); size 44: 261⁄2" (67 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances




ConstructionNote: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hem allowances with a twin machine needle to keep them flexible.

Q Stitch sleeves to front and back (seam number 1). Trim seam allowances to 1⁄4" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press toward sleeves.

Q Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances toward back.

Q Neck edge: Stitch bias strips together to form one long strip. With wrong sides together, fold and press bias strip lengthwise. Unfold bias strip again. Stitch ends together to a circumference of: size 36: 233⁄4" (60 cm); size 38: 24" (61 cm); size 40: 241⁄2" (62 cm); size 42: 243⁄4" (63 cm); size 44: 251⁄4" (64 cm). Fold strip again. Pin folded bias strip to neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch along marked seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias strip to inside. Topstitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from neck edge.

Q Press hem allowances on top and sleeves to inside. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 11⁄4" (3 cm) from lower edges of top and sleeves.

114- 082014-USBlouse !!"

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1olHCgw

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44on page 58Finished back length: 331⁄2" (85 cm)

Materials Challis, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 34/36: 21⁄4 yd (2.05 m); size 38/40: 23⁄8 yd (2.1 m); size 42/44: 25⁄8 yds (2.3 m) InterfacingNotions: 9 small flat buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet.

Buttonholes on piece 1 are marked for size 34/36. For sizes 38/40 and 42/44, mark top buttonhole same distance from neck edge as for size 34/36. Bottom buttonhole is same for all sizes. Space other buttonholes evenly between.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); sleeve vent edges: 11⁄4" (3 cm); hem: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); no seam allowance on vertical edge of front self-facing

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Challis:1 front, cut 22 back, cut 1 on fold3 yoke, cut 24 sleeve front, cut 25 sleeve back, cut 26 collar, cut 2 on fold7 collar stand, cut 2 on folda) 2 cuffs: size 34/36: 11" (27.5 cm); size 38/40, 42/44: 111⁄4" (29.5 cm) long, and 43⁄4" (12 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesInterfacing:Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Q For the inverted pleat, fold center back

right sides together. Stitch pleat lines together to arrow mark. Unfold back again. Press pleat centered over seam. Baste pleat to upper edge. Topstitch each side of pleat seam.

Q Yokes: Press yoke attachment seam allowances to inside. Lay turned-in yoke edges on front attachment edges (seam number 1) and back (seam number 2), and pin to seam allowances. Stitch yoke edges in place 3⁄16" (5 mm) from edge.

Q Turn hem allowances on front and back pieces to inside, turn in edges, press, and stitch.

Q Turn in self-facing on each front foldline and press. Stitch buttonholes in right self-facing. Lay folded facings to inside and press. Baste to neck edge and sew to hem edge. Topstitch front edges as marked.

Q Collar with collar stand: With right sides together, stitch collar pieces together along outer edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right-side out and press. With right sides together, lay collar stands with collar in between. Stitch along front and upper collar stand edges, beginning and

114A- 082014-USDress !!



Materials Rayon challis, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 13⁄4 yds (1.55 m); size 38, 40: 17⁄8 yds (1.75 m); size 42: 2 yds (1.8 m)



ending in front, exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar stand right-side out. Stitch outer collar stand piece to blouse neck edge. Press seam allowances toward collar stand. Turn in inside collar stand piece and baste to attachment seam. Topstitch collar stand close to all edges.

Q Sleeves: Stitch back sleeve seams above slit mark. Press seam and vent allowances toward sleeve fronts. At back vent underlap edges, press seam allowances to inside. At front vent edges and back underlap edges, turn seam allowance edges under to 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) wide and stitch. Stitch across top of vent, catching underlap. Fold pleat in lower edge of each sleeve and baste.

Q Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Neaten edges together and press toward sleeves.

Q Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Trim seam allowances, neaten edges together, and press toward back.

Q Cuffs: Stitch each cuff to lower sleeve edge. Press seam allowances of attachment seam and of other long cuff edge toward cuff. With right sides together, fold cuff lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn right-side out. Baste inside edge in place. Topstitch cuff close to all edges and also 3⁄8" (1 cm) from attachment seam.

Q Stitch one buttonhole in right end of collar stand and in front end of each cuff.




Blue pattern line, sheets A1-A2Pattern pieces 21 and 22Size 34 AAAAA

Size 36 ===

Size 38 CCC

Size 40 67 67

Size 42 EEEEE

Cutting layoutRayon challis, 60" (152.5 cm) wide

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up.

Selvedge

Selvedge

NZ_BS1309_114AT

Pleats on piece 21 are marked for size 34. For other sizes, mark pleats accordingly based on seam marks.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem: 11⁄4" (3 cm)

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Rayon challis:21 front, cut as 1 bias piece (see layout) 22 back, cut as 1 bias piece (see layout) a) 2 bias-cut straps: size 34: 141⁄2" (37 cm); size 36: 15" (38 cm); size 38: 151⁄2" (39 cm); size 40: 153⁄4" (40 cm); size 42: 161⁄4" (41 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowancesb) bias strip for neck edge: size 34: 373⁄4" (96 cm); size 36: 391⁄2" (100 cm); size 38: 403⁄4" (103 cm); size 40: 413⁄4" (106 cm); size 42: 431⁄2" (110 cm) long, and 11⁄4" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances

Construction Q On front piece, cut along each dart

center to 11⁄4" (3 cm) before point. Lay pleats in direction of arrows and baste to dart edges. Stitch darts. Trim dart allowances to 1⁄4" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press toward center.

Q Stitch side seams as French seams: Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together. Stitch seam allowances together 1⁄4" (6 mm) from edge. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together with the seam exactly along fold. Stitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) from folded edge, along marked seamline. Press seam allowances to one side.

Q With right sides together, fold straps lengthwise. Stitch 3⁄16" (5 mm) from folded edge. Turn straps right-side out and press. Baste straps to upper front edge, between seam marks.

Q Face the neck edge: With wrong sides together, fold and press neck edge bias strip in half lengthwise. Pin folded bias strip to neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Begin at one side seam and turn end of strip under. At corners of neck edge, make small folds in strip. Stitch bias strip in place. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Clip seam allowances at center front. Turn bias strip to inside. Topstitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from neck edge.

Q Pin back strap ends under upper back edge. Try on dress to determine correct strap length and hand-stitch ends in place.

Q Turn hem allowance to inside, press under half the width and stitch.

116- 082014-USCoat !!"


Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 28Finished back length: 411⁄2" (105 cm)Sleeves: 4" (10 cm) shorter than normal

MaterialsBrushed wool fabric, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 33⁄8 yds (3 m); size 44: 35⁄8 yds (3.3 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 21⁄8 yds (1.9 cm); sizes 40, 42: 21⁄4 yds (2.05 m); size 44: 23⁄8 yds (2.1 m)InterfacingNotions: 2 large sew-on snap fasteners


Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2 and D1-D2Pattern pieces 21 to 24Size 36 AAAAA

Size 38 ===

Size 40 CCC

Size 42 67 67

Size 44 EEEEE

NZ_BS1311_116T




116A- 082014-USJacket !!"

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1phDONj

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 44Finished back length: 26" (65 cm)Sleeves: 11⁄4" (3 cm) shorter than normal

MaterialsMatelassé, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 23⁄8 yds (2.1 m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 21⁄2 yds (2.2 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 36: 11⁄2 yds (1.3 m); sizes 38, 40: 15⁄8 yds (1.35 m); sizes 42, 44: 13⁄4 yds (1.60 m) InterfacingNotions: Fusible fleece; 2 large sew-on snap fasteners

Note: To make both jacket style 116A-082014-US and skirt style 118-082014-US in the same fabric (as shown in photo), you will need: sizes 36, 38: 31⁄4 yds (2.9 m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 33⁄8 yds (3 m) of matelassé. You will also need: size 36: 21⁄4 yds (2 m); sizes 38, 40: 23⁄8 yds (2.05 m); size 42: 25⁄8 yds (2.25 m); size 44: 33⁄8 yds (3 m) of 54" (137 cm) wide lining.

PreparationTrace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Trace front facing from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece, also tracing snap fastener markings. Cut out all paper pattern pieces.

ending exactly at sleeve and side seamlines.

Q Stitch sleeve darts. Press darts open, pressing dart points flat.

Q Stitch side seams, leaving seam allowances of sleeve attachment free and pockets open. Stitch sleeve seams, leaving seam allowances of attachment free. Press seam allowances open.

Q Inseam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances of pocket opening edges–pocket lining pieces in front and pocket pieces of main fabric in back. Stitch wool pockets in place, directly along marked seamline. Stitch lining pockets to seam allowances 1⁄4" (6 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces forward, trim evenly and stitch together.

Q Press hem allowances on coat and sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q Neck edge: Turn front self-facings to outside and stitch to back facing. With right sides together, stitch facing to neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside and press edges.

Q Stitch lining darts and seams. Turn lining hem allowance to wrong side, turn raw edge under, and hand-stitch so that lining is 3⁄4" (2 cm) shorter than coat.

PreparationTrace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.Upper snap fastener marking on piece 21 is for size 36. For other sizes, move top snap up same distance from neck edge. Bottom snap location is same for all sizes.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Brushed wool:21 front, cut 221 pocket, cut 222 back, cut 223 sleeve, cut 224 back facing, cut 1 on foldLining:21 front, cut 2 to lining line21 pocket, cut 222 back, cut 2 to lining line23 sleeve, cut 2 to lining lineInterfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.


allowances open.

Q Stitch sleeves to front and back pieces (seam numbers 2 and 4), beginning and

Fold fabric as shown in the cutting layout—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut right and left fronts as opposites. Note direction of nap.

Cutting layoutsBrushed wool, 54" (137 cm) wideSizes 36 – 42Fold

Selvedges Nap

Size 44Fold

Selvedges Nap

Q With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining in coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length of lining down and press. Sew facings over coat hem.

Q Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew upper snap halves to right front facing as marked, taking even stitches and exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay coat closed, matching center fronts. Mark positions of lower snap halves on left front. Sew lower snap halves in place as marked.




Snap fasteners marked on piece 1 (front facing) are for size 36. For the other sizes, move markings according to size lines.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Matelassé:1 front, cut 21 front facing, cut 21 pocket, cut 22 back, cut 1 on fold3 sleeve, cut 24 neck band, cut 45 back facing, cut 1 on folda) tie belt, a total of: size 36: 63" (160 cm); size 38: 65" (165 cm); size 40: 67" (170 cm); size 42: 69" (175 cm); size 44: 71" (180 cm) long, and 3" (7 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesLining: 1 front, cut 2, minus width of facing 1 pocket, cut 22 back, cut 1, minus width of facing and with 3⁄4" (2 cm) center back ease pleat3 sleeve, cut 2 Interfacing:Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. Interface inside neck band pieces and hem allowances. Fuse fleece to wrong side of outer neck band pieces.


Construction Q Stitch shoulder seams on jacket and

facings. Press seams open.

Q Stitch center back seams on neck bands. Stitch outer neck band unit to neck edge of jacket, clipping seam allowance of fronts into corners to do so. Stitch inside neck band to facing, clipping facing allowances into corners. Press seam allowances away from neck bands.

Q With right sides together, pin facing to jacket, and pin band edges together. Stitch along front edges and band edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing to inside and press edges. Pin band attachment seams together exactly. Turn facing forward/up again and stitch seam allowances together, close to band attachment seam. Lay facing on jacket again.

Q Stitch each sleeve to horizontal front and back armhole edges, from side seam edge to corner. Clip seam allowances of fronts and back into corners. Stitch sleeves

to armhole edges, from corner to corner. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams, leaving pocket openings free. Along curves, clip seam allowances several times. Press seam allowances open.

Q In-seam pockets: With right sides together, pin pockets to pocket opening seam allowance edges – pocket lining in front and matelassé pockets in back. Stitch pockets in place, directly along marked seamlines. Press pockets forward and stitch edges together.

Q At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside and then turn down again. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q On back lining, baste ease pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5 cm) long, and baste between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining seams.

Q Sew lining in place; hem jacket: Right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside jacket, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn lining edge under along hem edge. Press folded edge lightly, push up in a shallow curve, and pin to hem allowance. Hand-stitch facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Turn edge of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowances. Lay extra length of lining down and press.

Q Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew upper snap halves to right front facing as marked, taking even stitches and exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay jacket closed, matching center fronts. Sew lower snap halves to left front to match.

Q With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn belt right-side out. Press edges. Sew opening closed.

117- 082014-USJacket !!!


Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 26Finished back length: 201⁄2" (52 cm)Sleeves: 31⁄2" (9 cm) longer than normal

MaterialsNote: Both sides of the ponte knit show.Ponte knit, 60" (152.5 cm): 13⁄8 yds (1.2 m) for all sizes Stretch nappa leather for sleeves and bands. To make the jacket, you will need 2 leather skins with a total of 8 sq. ft. (1 sq. ft. = 30 ! 30 cm). Alternative: Stretch imitation leather, 54" (137 cm) wide: 1 yd (.9 m) for all sizesStretch lining, 54" (137 cm) wide, for the sleeves: 7⁄8 yd (.8 m) for all sizesNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; pre-folded satin bias tape, 3⁄4" (2 cm) wide: size 34: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 36, 38: 11⁄8 yd (1 m); sizes 40, 42: 11⁄4 yds (1.1 m); 1 two-way separating zipper, sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 20" (50 cm), size 44: 22" (55 cm) long; 2 large sew-on snap fasteners; textile glue; glue stick

Notes on leather (or imitation leather): We recommend that you first make the garment from inexpensive cotton fabric. Transfer any required alterations to the paper pattern before cutting out the leather. Avoid basting leather and ripping seams since the needle holes left are permanent. Press leather from the wrong side (cover with a pressing cloth), at a moderate temperature and without steam. Test-iron a scrap of the leather first.



Seam and hem allowancesCut leather bands without seam allowances.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:




Ponte knit: 1 center front with collar, cut 2 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 1 on fold 4 side back, cut 2 5 center front peplum, cut 4 6 side front peplum, cut 4 7 center back peplum, cut 2 on fold 8 side back peplum, cut 4Stretch nappa leather: 9 upper sleeve, cut 210 under sleeve, cut 2a) 4 front bands: size 34: 263⁄4" (68 cm); size 36: 27" (68.5 cm); size 38: 271⁄2" (69.5 cm); size 40: 273⁄4" (70 cm); size 42: 28" (71 cm) long, and 3⁄4" (2 cm) wide b) 2 collar bands: size 34: 32" (81 cm); size 36: 32 5⁄8" (82.5 cm); size 38: 33" (84 cm); size 40: 331⁄2" (85 cm); size 42: 341⁄8" (86.5 cm) long, and 3⁄4" (2 cm) wide c) collar attachment band: size 34: 121⁄4" (31 cm); sizes 36, 38: 123⁄4" (32 cm); size 40: 13" (33 cm); size 42: 131⁄2" (34 cm) long, and 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) wide Stretch lining: 9 upper sleeve, cut 210 under sleeve, cut 2Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of back neck edge, front shoulder edges, and armhole edges.

Construction Q Stitch right front section seam. Stitch

back section seams and side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q On outer peplum pieces, stitch right front section seam, back section seams, and side seams.

Q Stitch outer peplum unit to front and back, beginning and ending stitching at front edges, exactly on marked seamline. Press seam allowances open.

Q Separate zipper. Baste left zipper half (with pull) face up to side edge of center left front and peplum pieces so that zipper teeth lie on garment piece and the zipper tape lies on seam allowance. Zipper should end 3⁄16" (5 mm) above marked lower edge. Using the zipper foot, stitch left front section seam, catching zipper in seam. Press seam allowances to the side.

Q Stitch shoulder seams, beginning and ending at marked neck edge. Clip shoulder seam allowances into corner. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch center back seam on integrated collar pieces. Press seam allowances to one side. Trim lower seam allowance to 3⁄16" (5 mm) wide. Turn under edge of upper

seam allowance and baste. From garment right side, stitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from seam.

Q Stitch collar to back neck edge. Lay leather band over collar attachment seam allowances, leaving ends of band extending evenly. Stitch leather band to seam allowances only, close to the seam. Trim seam allowances under band. Lay leather band and seam allowances down. Stitch band ends in place, along lines of shoulder seams, and trim extending ends. Stitch lower band edge in place.

Q On inside peplum, stitch section seams and side seams. With right sides together, pin inside peplum to attached peplum. Stitch lower edges together, beginning and ending seam at marked front edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn inside peplum down and understitch close to seam. Turn inside peplum to inside and press edge. Lay inside edge flat over attachment seam. From jacket right side, stitch along attachment seam, interrupting stitching at zipper on left section seam. Clip seam allowance of left front next to seam allowance edge and directly at front section seam, close to horizontal seam. Bind seam allowances of horizontal seam together, with bias tape.

Q On front edges of peplum and fronts, trim away seam allowances, then continue along outer collar edges.

Q Turn upper end of right zipper tape under. Pin right half of zipper face up to front edge of right front and peplum so that teeth extend past edge. Zipper should end 3⁄16" (5 mm) above marked lower edge. Stitch zipper tape in place.

Q Using a glue stick, apply leather bands along front edges and collar edges of jacket, on both outer side and underside. Overlap band ends at collar corners. Edgestitch bands in place on right front edge, next to the zipper using zipper foot.

Q Stitch back sleeve seams. Topstitch upper sleeves close to seams. Stitch front sleeve seams. Spread seam allowances open and glue down with textile glue. Fold sleeve hem allowances to wrong side of leather and press hem edge. Do not yet turn sleeves right side out. Stitch seams on sleeve linings. With right sides together, stitch lower edges of sleeve linings to hem allowances of leather sleeves, matching raw edges. Glue sleeve hem allowances in place with textile glue. With wrong sides together, pull sleeve linings over leather sleeves, and stitch upper edges to seam allowances. Lay extra length of lining down and press. Turn sleeves right side out.

Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2Pattern pieces 1 to 10Size 34 3333

Size 36 4444

Size 38 55

Size 40 6666

Size 42 7777


Alternative:Stretch imitation leather, 54" (137 cm) wide

Selvedges

Fold

Cutting layouts Ponte knit, 60" (152.5 cm) wide

Stretch nappa leatherSince leather skins can vary greatly, no pattern layout is given for the leather.

Selvedges

Fold

NZ_BS1311_117T




Q Set in sleeves.

Q On left front band, sew lower snap halves in place, placing one snap level with peplum attachment seam and one snap 103⁄4" (27 cm) above. Close zipper. Sew upper snap halves to inside of peplum attachment seam and to seam allowance of section seam.

118- 082014-USSkirt !!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1olxXGW

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 44Finished length from waist: 241⁄2" (62 cm)Waistband sits at natural waistline

MaterialsMatelassé, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 7⁄8 yd (.8 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 7⁄8 yd (.7 m) Waistband interfacing Notions: 1 Invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long

Note: See jacket 116A-082014-US for the total fabric required to make both skirt and jacket from one fabric as shown in the photo.



Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); vent edges: 11⁄4" (3 cm); upper skirt edge and waistband: 3⁄8" (1 cm); hem: 15⁄8" (4 cm); lining: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:

Matelassé:1 front skirt, cut 1 on fold2 back skirt, cut 2a) waistband: size 34: 261⁄2" (67 cm); size 36: 28" (71 cm); size 38: 293⁄4" (75 cm); size 40: 311⁄4" (79 cm); size 42: 323⁄4" (83 cm); size 44: 341⁄4" (87 cm) long, and 21⁄2" (6 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesLining: 1 front skirt, cut 1 on fold2 back skirt, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.


toward centers.

Q Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q With wrong sides together, fold and press waistband in half lengthwise. Unfold waistband. Stitch waistband to upper skirt edge. Press seam allowances open.

Q Sew invisible zipper to center back opening edges and outer waistband half (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from vent to zipper. Press seam allowances open.

Q On lining, stitch darts, center back seam, and side seams, leaving openings for zipper and vent. With right sides together, stitch lining to inside waistband edge. Press seam allowances toward lining. Fold waistband half to inside. With wrong sides together, pull lining into skirt. Pin waistband attachment seams together exactly. From skirt right side, stitch along seam. Turn under edges of inside waistband half and lining and sew to zipper tapes.

Q Press hem and vent allowances to inside and hand-stitch sew in place.

Q In the areas of the vent, trim away a generous section of lining, rounding off top corners. Narrowly hem edges. Turn hem allowance of lining to wrong side, turn edge under, and stitch lining 3⁄4" (2 cm) shorter than skirt.

119- 082014-USFur collar !"

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1ni95CD

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42on page 27

MaterialsFake fur with long pile, 54" (137 cm) wide: 1⁄2 yd (.35 m)Ponte knit, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 1⁄2 yd (.35 m).Fine jersey, 60" (152 cm) wide, for lining: 1⁄2 yd (.35 m)


Cutting Fake fur/fine jersey:Collar: size 34: 303⁄4" (78 cm); size 36: 321⁄2" (82 cm); size 38: 331⁄2" (85 cm); size 40: 35" (89 cm)l size 42: 361⁄4" (92 cm) long, and 12" (30 cm) wide Ponte knit:2 connecting pieces, size 34: 63⁄4" (17 cm); size 36: 71⁄8" (18 cm); size 38: 71⁄2" (19 cm); size 40: 8" (20 cm); size 42: 83⁄8" (21 cm) long, and 12" (30 cm) wide

ConstructionNote: When stitching seams, push hairs of fur away from seam, toward collar piece.

Q Lay connecting pieces right sides together. Stitch short edges together (at top and bottom), with a stretch stitch, stretching edges slightly. Turn right-side out and press edges. Pin open edges together.

Q With right sides together, baste connecting piece to one side edge of fur collar. Lay lining on collar right sides together over connecting piece, and pin. Stitch along upper and lower collar edges (long edges), beginning and ending at side edge without connecting piece, exactly at marked seamline and not stitching across seam allowances. Turn collar right-side out. Stitch connecting piece to open side edge of fur collar. Turn lining edge under and hand-stitch to attachment seam.




Construction Q Lay pleats in upper front in direction of

arrows and baste.

Q With wrong sides together, fold and press facing strip for back neck edge lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to back neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece, 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch facing strip in place. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge. Topstitch 1⁄4" (6mm) from neck edge.

Q With right sides together, baste back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Turn front self-facing onto back at foldline, and pin to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams. Pull back out of front. Lay facing on front. Press shoulder seams, but do not press folded edge. Baste facing to armhole edges.

Q Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, beginning and ending exactly at marked sleeve seamlines. At seam ends, turn seam allowances of sleeves back and pin in place. Stitch each side seam, from sleeve attachment seam to lower edge. Remove pins. Stitch sleeve seams.

Q Stitch side seams on lower front and back pieces.

Q Stitch upper front and back to lower front and back, easing upper section. Press seam allowances down and stitch as marked to form casing, leaving 2" (5 cm) open to insert elastic. Insert elastic in casing. Sew ends of elastic together to a circumference of: size 36: 26" (66 cm); size 38: 273⁄4" (70 cm); size 40: 291⁄4" (74 cm); size 42: 303⁄4" (78 cm); size 44: 321⁄2" (82 cm). Sew seam opening closed.

Q Turn hem allowances of dress and sleeves to inside. Stitch 1" (2.5 cm) from lower edges of dress and sleeves with twin sewing machine needle, catching hem allowances.

119A- 082014-USTop !"

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/Rfv12g

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 42Finished length from waist: 10" (25 cm)Sleeves: 21⁄2" (6 cm) longer than normal

MaterialsStretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 17⁄8 yds (1.7 m); sizes 38, 40: 2 yds (1.8 cm); sizes 42, 44: 21⁄8 yds (1.9 m)Notions: Elastic, 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 7⁄8 yd (.8 m); size 44: 1 yd (.85 m); fusible bias stay tape; twin sewing machine needle


PreparationTrace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Note hem line for view A. Cut out all paper pieces. Pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked for size 36. For other sizes, mark pleat arrows accordingly.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); lower edges of pieces 21 and 22: 3⁄4" (2 cm); upper edge of piece 24: 3⁄4" (2 cm); hem and sleeve hems: 11⁄4" (3 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Stretch jersey:21 upper front, cut 1 on fold22 upper back, cut 1 on fold23 sleeve, cut 224 lower front, cut 1 on fold24 lower back, cut 1 on folda) back neck edge facing strip: sizes 36, 38: 121⁄4" (31 cm); size 40: 123⁄4" (32 cm); size 42: 13 (33 cm); size 44: 131⁄2" (34 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowancesFusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of armhole edges, back shoulder edges, and back neck edge.

120- 082014-USDress !!


Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 45Finished length from waist: 263⁄4" (68 cm)

Materials Silk organza, 45" (114.5 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 31⁄2 yds (3.20 m); sizes 40, 42: 35⁄8 yds (3.3 m)

Red pattern line, sheets D1-D2Pattern pieces 21, 22 and 24Size 34 AAAAA

Size 36 ===

Size 38 CCC

Size 40 67 67

Size 42 EEEEE

NZ_BS1312_120T

Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long; 1 small ball button


PreparationTrace pieces 21-22 and 24 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams, edges, and hem: 3⁄8" (1 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Silk organza:21 front, cut 1 on fold22 back, cut 224 front skirt, cut 1 on fold24 back skirt, cut 2a) tie belt: size 34: 65" (165 cm); size 36: 67" (170 cm); size 38: 69" (175 cm); sizes 40, 42: 71" (180 cm) long, and 83⁄4" (22 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) bias binding neckline strip: size 34: 193⁄4" (50 cm); size 36: 201⁄4" (51 cm); size 38: 201⁄2" (52 cm); size 40: 21" (53 cm); size 42: 211⁄4" (54 cm) long, and 11⁄4"




(3 cm) wide, including seam allowances c) 2 bias binding armhole strips: size 34: 181⁄8" (46 cm); size 36: 19" (48 cm); size 38: 191⁄4" (49 cm); size 40: 201⁄4" (51 cm); size 42: 201⁄2" (52 cm) long, and 11⁄4" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances

Construction Q Sew shoulder seams as French seams:

Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together. Stitch seam allowances together 1⁄8" (4 mm) from the edge. Begin and end stitching exactly at marked seamlines of neck and armhole edges. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together with the seam lying exactly along the fold. Stitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from folded edge, along marked seamline, not stitching across seam allowances at neck edge and armhole edges. Press seam allowances toward back.

Q Gather upper skirt edge and lower front and back edges between asterisks: front to: size 34: 111⁄8" (28 cm); size 36: 12" (30 cm); size 38: 123⁄4" (32 cm); size 40: 131⁄2" (34 cm); size 42: 141⁄4" (36 cm); and each back to: size 34: 51⁄2" (14 cm); size 36: 6" (15 cm); size 38: 63⁄8" (16 cm); size 40: 63⁄4" (17 cm); size 42: 71⁄8" (18 cm).

Q Stitch front skirt to front piece. Stitch back skirts to back pieces. Neaten edges of seam allowances together and press allowances up.

Q Sew invisible zipper to center back opening edges, between opening marks (see instructions on page 66). Turn top ends of zipper tapes under and sew to seam allowances. Above zipper, press back opening seam allowances to inside, turn edges under, and stitch in place. Trim lower zipper tapes 3⁄4" (2 cm) below opening and bind ends with a fabric scrap. Clip seam allowances at end of opening.

Cutting layoutSilk organza, 45" (114.5 cm) wide


SelvedgesSelvedges

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

Sew center back seam as a French seam (see above), from lower edge to zipper opening.

Q Bind neck edge: Trim away seam allowance of neck edge. With wrong sides together, fold and press binding strip in half lengthwise. Pin folded binding strip to inside of neck edge, leaving end of strip extending past left back opening edge 11⁄4" (3 cm) for loop. Stitch binding strip in place 3⁄16" (5 mm) from edge. Turn binding up and turn right end under. Fold binding strip out over neck edge and baste over attachment seam. Edgestitch binding in place, also stitching edges of extending section closed. Lay the extending end in a loop and sew to inside back edge. Stitch right end of binding closed.

Q At each armhole edge, trim away seam allowance. Bind armhole edges.

Q Sew side seams as French seams (see above). Sew upper ends of seam allowances to armhole edges by hand.

Q At each side seam, stitch a thread loop 3" (7 cm) long over waistline seam. For each loop, stretch 3–4 threads and cover them closely with hand buttonhole stitching.

Q Tie belt: With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving a section of seam open for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew seam opening closed.

Q Finish hem edge with closely spaced zigzag: Press hem allowance to wrong side. From right side, stitch along folded edge with closely spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim hem allowance close to stitching.

Q Sew button to right back slit edge, to match loop.

120.1- 082014-USSkirt !"


Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 57Finished length: 153⁄4" (40 cm)Upper skirt edge sits at natural waistline.

Materials Sequin fabric, 54" (137) wide: 1 yd (.85 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 5⁄8 yd (.5 m) for all sizesNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-4 from pattern sheet. Trace yoke pieces from skirt panels as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Sequin fabric:1 center front yoke, cut 1 on fold2 side front yoke, cut 23 center back yoke, cut 24 side back yoke, cut 2a) 2 skirt panels: size 34: 471⁄4" (120 cm); size 36: 473⁄4" (121 cm); size 38: 481⁄2" (123 cm); size 40: 493⁄4" (126 cm); size 42: 50" (127 cm); size 44: 503⁄4" (129 cm) wide, and 10" (25 cm) longLining: 1 center front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold2 side front skirt panel, cut 23 center back skirt panel, cut 24 side back skirt panel, cut 2Fusible bias stay tape:Fuse to wrong side of upper edge on skirt lining pieces.

Construction Q Stitch side front yokes to center front

yoke. Stitch side back yokes to center back yokes. Stitch side seams of yoke. Press seam allowances open.

Q Sew invisible zipper to back edges of yoke (see instructions on page 66). Leave zipper tapes extending past lower edge.




Q Stitch lining seams, leaving walking slits 43⁄4"(12 cm) long in side seams and leaving slit for zipper opening in back.

Q Face upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pull lining over skirt and pin to upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn lining edge under 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge and pin to upper edge. Turn skirt seam allowances at opening edges to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over lining. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances on opening edges to inside. Turn lining up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn lining to inside and sew to zipper tapes.

Q Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Hem lining 3⁄8" (1 cm) shorter than skirt. Narrowly turn under edges of walking slits and sew in place.

120A- 082014-USTrousers !!"

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1kuk88m

Burda sizes 72, 76, 80, 84, 88on page 27Finished side length: 48" (122 cm)Waistband edge sits 3⁄4" (2 cm) below waistlineLeg hem circumference: 12" (30 cm)

MaterialsCrêpe, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 72: 21⁄8 yds (1.9 m); size 76: 21⁄4 yds (1.95 m); sizes 80, 84, 88: 21⁄2 yds (2.2 m)Interfacing Notions: 2 large sew-on snap fasteners; small piece of lining fabric to cover snaps


PreparationTrace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Tape pieces 21 and 21a together as marked. Lengthen piece 22 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces. Pleat arrow on piece 21 is marked for size 72. For other sizes, remark the pleat arrow according to size lines.

Q Mark 5 pleats on each skirt panel—pleat width: size 34: 3" (7.5 cm); size 36: 31⁄8" (7.7 cm); size 38: 31⁄4" (8 cm); size 40: 33⁄8" (8.5 cm); size 42: 31⁄2" (8.7 cm); size 44: 35⁄8" (9 cm), pleat depth: 6" (15 cm) – begin and end with one pleat width. Lay pleats in skirt and baste to upper skirt edge. Pleats should run from right to left around the body.

Q Stitch side seams on skirt panels. Stitch skirt panels to yoke. Clip allowances of yoke attachment seam 3⁄8" (1 cm) to each side of zipper. Press seam allowances of yoke attachment seam up and press down at zipper.

Green pattern line, sheet C1Pattern pieces 1 to 4Size 34 2222

Size 36 3333

Size 38 4444

Size 40 55

Size 42 6666

Size 44 7777

NZ_BS1310_120T


Cutting layoutsSequin fabric, 54" (137 cm) wide

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide

Selvedges

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Crêpe:21 front trouser, cut 222 back trouser, cut 2 23 back yoke, cut 224 pocket, cut 4 a) right waistband, size 72: 181⁄2" (47 cm); size 76: 191⁄2" (49.5 cm); size 80: 201⁄2" (52 cm); size 84: 211⁄4" (54 cm); size 88: 223⁄8" (56.5 cm) long; left waistband, size 72: 191⁄4" (49 cm); size 76: 203⁄8" (51.5 cm); size 80: 211⁄4" (54 cm); size 84: 221⁄4" (56 cm); size 88: 231⁄8" (58.5 cm) long, and each 31⁄4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Interfacing: Fuse to wrong side of waistband pieces.

Construction Q Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser

pieces right sides together. Stretch inside leg edges above seam mark by pressing with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they match corresponding edges on front trouser pieces.

Q Stitch darts in back trouser pieces and press toward center.

Q Stitch back yokes to back trouser pieces. Press seam allowances toward yokes.

Q Work from inside to stitch pleats in front trouser pieces, from upper edge to pleat arrow. Lay pleats in direction of arrows and press. Baste pleats to upper edge.

Q Stitch side seams, leaving pocket openings free. Press seams open.

Q Inseam pockets:w Work from inside to pin pocket pieces to pocket opening seam allowances, right sides together. Stitch pocket pieces in place, close to side seam and exactly along seamline at pocket opening edge. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch edges together. Baste upper pocket edges in place.

Q Stitch inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open. Stitch center front and center back seam as a continuous seam. Press center seam open from each upper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along curve.

Q Clip right trouser front as marked on pattern. Neaten cut edges, press narrowly to wrong side, and stitch in place. With wrong sides together, fold left trouser front on foldline. Lay folded edge on right piece, so that marked center front lies on center seam. Baste all three fabric layers




together along upper edge. Fold right front on foldline, wrong side in. Baste both fabric layers together on upper edge.

Q Waistband: Stitch waistband ends together. Stitch waistband to upper trouser edge, matching seam to center back. Press seam allowances of attachment seam and other long waistband edge toward waistband. With right sides together, fold waistband lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn waistband right-side out. Baste inside edge in place. From right side of trousers, stitch along waistband attachment seam, catching inner edge. Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew one upper snap half to inside of right waistband end. Sew bottom snap half to left waistband end. Space each 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from waistband end. Lay right trouser piece over left piece, matching center fronts. Mark snap positions on waistband. Sew snaps in place as marked.

Q Press hem allowances to inside, turn edges under, and hand-stitch in place.

121A- 082014-USJacket !!


Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44on page 31Finished back length: 301⁄2" (77 cm)

Materials Note: Both sides of fabric show in finished garment.Poplin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 34/36: 23⁄4 yds (2.5 m); size 38/40: 27⁄8 yds (2.55 m); size 42/44: 27⁄8 yds (2.6 m)InterfacingNotions: 2 buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet.Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:

Poplin:21 front, cut 1 22 back, cut 1 on fold23 sleeve front, cut 224 sleeve back, cut 225 standing collar, cut 2 on folda) tie belt: size 34/36: 60" (150 cm); size 38/40: 64" (160 cm); size 42/44: 68" (170 cm), and 11⁄2" (4 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesb) 2 cuffs: size 34/36: 91⁄8" (23 cm); size 38/40: 91⁄2" (24 cm); size 42/44: 10" (25 cm), including 11⁄4" (3 cm) for underlap, and 13⁄4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of outer collar piece and outer cuff halves. Note: On piece 21, the left front fabric wrong side becomes the right side. Transfer pattern marks accordingly.

Construction Q Front edges: Press right front hem

allowance to right side of fabric, from upper edge to 4" (10 cm) before slit mark, turn edge under to a width of 1⁄4" (6 mm) and edgestitch in place. Press left front hem allowance to wrong side of fabric, from upper edge to 4" (10 cm) before slit mark, turn edge under to a width of 1⁄4" (6 mm), and edgestitch in place.

Q Fold front on marked foldline so that right fabric side is visible on right front half and wrong fabric side is visible on left front half. Pin front edge of right front to left front.

Q Back hem edge, side seams, and slits: Press hem allowance on lower edge of back piece to inside, turn edge under to a width of 1⁄4" (6 mm), and edgestitch in place. Lay back on front, right fabric sides of right front half and back piece lie together. Stitch each side seam from upper

Selvedge Selvedges

Fold

FoldFold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Lay the front piece on the right side of the fabric, with pattern printed side facing up. Cut right and left sleeve pieces as opposites.

Cutting layouts Poplin, 60" (152.5 cm) wideSizes 34/36 to 42/44

Selvedge

Black pattern line, sheet B1-B2Pattern pieces 21 to 25Size 34/36 CCC

Size 38/40 67 67

Size 42/44 EEEEE

NZ_BS1311_121T

edge to slit mark. Press seam allowances open. Neaten seam allowance edges from upper edges to end of seams. Press slit allowances on back and remaining allowances on front pieces to inside, as far as top of slit, turn edges under to a width of 1⁄4" (6 mm), and edgestitch in place. Stitch horizontally across top of slit.

Q Lower sleeve seams: With right sides together, lay sleeve front pieces on sleeve back pieces. Stitch lower sleeve seams (seam number 2). Press seam allowances open and neaten edges.

Q Set in sleeves. Trim seam allowances to 1⁄4" (6 mm), neaten edges together, and press toward sleeve, from upper edge to beginning of underarm curve.




122A- 082014-USDress !!



Materials Stretch satin, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 11⁄8 yd (1 m); sizes 40, 42: 11⁄2 yds (1.25 m) Lining for bodice, 54" (137 cm) wide, cut on bias: 5⁄8 yd (.5 m) for all sizes InterfacingNotions: 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces. On pieces 1-4 note different grainlines for main fabric and lining. At walking slit (on piece 6), note different lines for right and left edges, but first cut skirt pieces the same size, from double layer of fabric.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Stretch satin:1 center front, cut 1 on fold2 side front, cut 23 center back, cut 1 on fold4 side back, cut 25 skirt front, cut 1 on fold6 skirt back, cut 2a) 2 straps: size 34: 161⁄2" (42 cm); size 36: 17" (43 cm); size 38: 171⁄4" (44 cm); size 40: 173⁄4" (45 cm); size 42: 181⁄8" (46 cm) long, and 11⁄4" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances Lining: 1 center front, cut 1 on fold2 side front, cut 23 center back, cut 1 on fold4 side back, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Q Shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams, slit: With right sides together, lay front on back, folding sleeves lengthwise. Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams, up to slit mark. Press seam allowances open. Neaten edges of seam allowances from upper edge to slit mark. Press slit allowances to inside, turn edge under to 1⁄4" (6 mm), and edgestitch in place. Stitch horizontally across top of slit.

Q Cuffs: Gather lower sleeve edges to: size 34/36: 8" (20 cm); size 38/40: 83⁄8" (21 cm); size 42/44: 83⁄4" (22 cm).

Q With right sides together, pin interfaced cuff halves to lower sleeve edges, leaving underlap extending at back vent edge. Stitch cuffs to sleeves. Press seam allowances toward cuffs. Press seam allowance on opposite cuff edge to wrong side. With right sides together, fold cuffs in half and stitch narrow edges together. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn cuffs right-side out. Press. Pin inside cuff halves over attachment seam, pinning edges together on underlap. Topstitch cuffs close to attachment seam, stitch underlap together close to edges. Stitch buttonhole at front cuff ends. Sew button on underlap to match.

Q Standing collar: With right sides together, stitch interfaced collar to neck edge (seam number 5). Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press seam allowances toward collar. On un-interfaced collar piece press seam allowance on attachment edge to wrong side, then turn down flat again. With right sides together, lay un-interfaced collar piece on interfaced collar piece. Pin front edges together, turning seam allowances of attachment seam down flat again to do so. Stitch along front edge and upper edges of collar. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn collar right-side out. Turn edge of inside collar piece under and pin over attachment seam. From garment right side, topstitch collar close to attachment seam catching inside half.

Q With right sides together, fold tie belt in half lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving 2" (5 cm) open for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Press. Sew seam opening closed.

Black pattern line, sheet D2Pattern pieces 1 to 6Size 34 3333

Size 36 4444

Size 38 55

Size 40 6666

Size 42 7777

NZ_BS1312_122T

Sizes 40, 42

Selvedges

Fold

Cutting layoutsStretch satin, 54" (137 cm) wide

Sizes 34 – 38

Selvedges

FoldFold

Fold

Selv.

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layouts—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer.

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wideSizes 34 – 42

Selvedge

Fold

Selvedge




Construction Q Stitch side fronts to center front. Stitch

side backs to center back. Press seams open.

Q Stitch center back skirt seam, leaving walking slit open. Press seam open and press slit facing of left skirt back to inside. Turn right slit underlap toward left skirt back and press seam allowance of right skirt back to inside, tapered above slit, to avoid needing to clip it. Trim left slit facing to 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide. Press right slit facing to inside. Stitch darts in skirt and press toward center.

Q Stitch skirt front to bodice front and stitch skirt back to bodice back. Press seam allowances up.

Q Sew invisible zipper to left opening edges above mark (see instructions on page 66). Stitch left side seam from lower edge to zipper. Stitch right side seam. Press seam allowances open.

Q With right sides together, fold each strap lengthwise. Stitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from folded edge. Turn straps right-side out and press. Baste straps to upper front edge above section seams.

Q On lining, stitch section seams and right side seam (as mirror image of dress seam).

Q With right sides together, pin lining to bodice edge. At zipper opening, turn lining back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam allowances on dress opening edges to outside and pin to bodice edge, over lining. Stitch along upper edge. Trim seam allowances and clip at center front. Turn seam allowances inside at opening edges. Turn lining up and understitch close to seam. Turn lining edges under and sew to zipper tapes and skirt attachment seam. Pin back strap ends under back edge. Try on dress to determine correct strap length. Hand-stitch strap ends in place.

Q At hem edge, unfold facings of walking slit. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn slit facings to inside again and hand-stitch to hem. Topstitch left skirt back at an angle as marked, catching underlap.

123A- 082014-USDress !!"



Materials Chiffon, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 72: 31⁄8 yds (2.75 m); sizes 76, 80: 31⁄4 yds (2.90 m); sizes 84, 88: 33⁄8 yds (3 m) Lightweight satin crêpe, 54" (137 cm) wide, to back chiffon pieces and as lining: size 72: 3 yds (2.7 m); sizes 76, 80: 31⁄8 yds (2.8 m); sizes 84, 88: 31⁄4 yds (2.9 m) Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Draft skirt pattern as follows:

On a large sheet of paper (the upper edge and the right edges must form a right angle), stretch a tape measure from the upper right corner to mark the radius (R)

Black pattern line, sheet A1-A2Pattern pieces 21 to 24Size 72 AAAAA

Size 76 ===

Size 80 CCC

Size 84 67 67

Size 88 EEEEE

NZ_BS1312_123T

Radius for waist edge (R):size 72: 91⁄4" (23.5 cm), size 76:

93⁄4" (24.8 cm)size 80: 101⁄4" (26.1 cm), size 84:

103⁄4" (27.4 cm)size 88: 111⁄4" (28.6 cm)

Radius for hem line (R1):size 72: 36" (91.5 cm), size 76:

361⁄2" (92.8 cm)size 80: 37" (94.1 cm), size 84:

371⁄2" (95.4 cm)size 88: 38" (96.6 cm)

Diagram – skirt panel


for the waist edge and hem line (R1). Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting layoutsChiffon, 54" (137 cm) wideSelvedges

Selvedges

Fold

Satin crêpe (lining), 54" (137 cm) wide

Selvedges

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

Straight Grain




CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Chiffon:21 upper front, cut 222 lower front, cut 1 on fold23 back, cut 224 sleeve, cut 2a) skirt panel, cut 1 on a fold (see diagram)b) 2 sleeve vent facings, cut on bias: 4" (10 cm) long, and 11⁄4" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowancesc) 2 back tie bands: size 72: 311⁄2" (80 cm); size 76: 321⁄2" (82 cm); size 80: 33" (84 cm); size 84: 34" (86 cm); size 88: 341⁄4" (88 cm) long, and 21⁄2" (6 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesSatin crêpe (lining):21 upper front, cut 422 lower front, cut 2 on fold23 back, cut 4a) skirt panel, cut 1 on fold (see diagram) c) 2 back tie bands, size 72: 311⁄2" (80 cm); size 76: 321⁄2" (82 cm); size 80: 33" (84 cm); size 84: 34" (86 cm); size 88: 341⁄4" (88 cm) long, and 21⁄2" (6 cm) wide, excluding seam allowance d) 2 sleeve bands with integrated tie bands, cut on bias: 40" (100 cm) long, and 11⁄4" (3 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesFusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of neck edges on two upper front and back pieces lining pieces.

Construction Q With wrong side facing right side, lay

upper fronts, lower front, back pieces, and tie bands of chiffon on corresponding pieces of lining and baste edges together. Treat these pieces as one for construction.

Q Stitch shoulder seams on dress and lining separately. With right sides together, lay lining on upper front and back pieces. Stitch along neck edges. Turn lining up and understitch close to seam. Turn lining to inside and press neck edges. Baste remaining edges together. Gather lower edges of upper front pieces between asterisks to 23⁄8" (6 cm). At upper points of lower front and lining lower front, fold seam allowance down horizontally and press. Baste upper front pieces to lower front with neck edges meeting at center front. With right sides together, lay lower front lining piece on lower front piece, catching upper front pieces. Stitch from each seam number 1 to center front. Trim seam allowances. Turn lining to inside and baste lower edges together.

124A- 082014-USDress !!"



Materials Crêpe, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 17, 18, 19: 21⁄4 yds (2 m); sizes 20, 21: 21⁄2 yds (2.2 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 11⁄2 yds (1.3 m) for all sizesNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible zipper 24" (60 cm) long; 6 small fabric-covered buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 1-9 from pattern sheet.Lining: Overlap seamlines and cut as follows: For the lining front, tape pieces 1 and 2 together. For the skirt front lining, tape pattern pieces 4 and 6 (without pleat) together. For the skirt back lining piece, tape pattern pieces 5 and 7 together. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Crêpe:1 front, cut 1 on fold2 front yoke, cut 23 back, cut 24 front skirt yoke, cut 1 on fold5 back skirt yoke, cut 26 front skirt, cut 1 on fold7 back skirt, cut 28 sleeve, cut 2

Q With right sides together, fold tie bands lengthwise. Stitch each along long edge and across one end. Trim seam allowances. Turn tie bands right-side out and press. Baste tie bands to side seam edges of back pieces, below seam marks.

Q Sleeve vents: With right sides together, pin each sleeve vent facing piece to sleeve over marked slash line. From wrong side, stitch close to both sides of slash mark. Slash between stitching lines. Turn facing to inside. Press vent edges. Turn facing edges under and baste in place. Topstitch close to vent edges and 3⁄16" (5 mm) from vent edges.

Q Gather sleeve cap on each side of marked line to: size 72: 23⁄8" (6 cm); size 76: 25⁄8" (6.5 cm); size 80: 23⁄4" (7 cm); size 84: 3" (7.5 cm); size 88: 31⁄4" (8 cm). From a scrap of remaining fabric, cut two backing strips, each 4" (10 cm) long and 3⁄4" (2 cm) wide. Press long edges under 1⁄4" (6 mm). On inside, lay backing strips over gathers and turn lower ends under. From right side, stitch between lines of gathering stitching. Remove gathering threads. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, beginning and ending exactly at marked sleeve seamlines. At seam ends, turn seam allowances of sleeves back and pin. Stitch each side seam from sleeve attachment seam to lower edge. Remove pins. Stitch sleeve seams. Trim seam allowances to 1⁄4" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press to one side. Press side seam allowances open.

Q Gather lower sleeve edges to: size 72: 12" (30 cm); size 76: 121⁄4" (31 cm); size 80: 123⁄4" (32 cm); size 84: 13" (33 cm); size 88: 131⁄2" (34 cm). Stitch sleeve bands to lower sleeve edges, leaving tie bands extending evenly at sleeve vents. Press seam allowances of attachment seams toward sleeve bands. With right sides together, fold tie bands lengthwise and stitch edges together. Trim seam allowances. Turn tie bands right-side out and press. Turn inside sleeve band edges under and sew to attachment seams.

Q With wrong side facing right side, lay chiffon skirt over skirt lining. Baste upper edges together and baste back edges together, from upper edge to opening mark. Stitch skirt to bodice. Press seam allowances up.

Q Sew invisible zipper to center back edges, above opening mark (see instructions on page 66). Begin at upper edge and leave zipper tapes extending at the top. Clip chiffon seam allowances at end of opening. Stitch center back seams on chiffon and lining separately, from lower

edge to zipper opening. Turn top ends of zipper tapes under and sew to neck edge.

Q Finish dress and lining hem edges separately with closely spaced zigzag: Press hem allowance to wrong side. From right side, stitch along folded edge with closely spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim hem allowances close to stitching.




Blue pattern line, sheet B1-B2Pattern pieces 1 to 9Size 17 3333

Size 18 4444

Size 19 55

Size 20 6666

Size 21 7777

NZ_BS1312_124TCutting layoutsCrêpe, 60" (152.5 cm) wideSizes 17 – 19

Cut from a double layer of fabric right sides together.

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wideSizes 17 – 21

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

Sizes 20, 21

Selvedges

Fold

9 cuff, cut 4a) 2 sleeve vent bias binding strips: 8" (20 cm) long, and 11⁄4" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowancesLining: 1 front, cut 1 on fold2 front yoke, cut 23 back, cut 24/6 front skirt lining5/7 back skirt liningInterfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. Interface outer cuff pieces. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong sides of shoulder seam edges of front yokes, neck and armhole edges, back slit edges, and attachment edges of skirt yoke pieces.

Construction Q Stitch back darts and press toward

center. Stitch bust darts and press down. Stitch front yokes to front (seam number 1). Stitch side seams and shoulder seams of bodice. Press seam allowances open.

Q On front skirt panel, fold inverted pleat in direction of arrow and baste. Do not press pleat folds. Stitch side seams on skirt. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch side seams on skirt yoke. Stitch yoke to skirt (seam number 10), clipping seam allowance of skirt at center front. Stitch yoke to bodice (seam number 9), clipping seam allowance of yoke at center front. Press seam allowances toward yoke.

Q Sew invisible zipper to center back opening edges, above seam mark (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch lining darts and seams, leaving opening for zipper.

Q Neck edge: With right sides together, pin lining to dress neck edge. At zipper opening, turn lining back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to neck edge. On dress, turn opening edge seam allowances to outside and pin to neck edge, over lining. Stitch along neck edge. Turn opening edge seam allowances to inside. Turn lining up and understitch close to seam. Turn lining to inside and hand-stitch to zipper tapes. Baste lining to armhole edges.

Q Cut sleeve vents open as marked. Spread cut edges open to a straight line and stitch to one long edge of binding strip, as narrowly as possible. Press binding strip over attachment seam into vent, then fold

to 1⁄4" (6 mm) wide, turn edge under and sew to attachment seam. On inside top of vent, stitch diagonally across binding. On each front vent edge, turn binding to inside and baste to lower sleeve edge.

Q Lay sleeve pleats in direction of arrows and baste. Stitch sleeve seams.

Q Cuffs: Stitch outer cuff pieces to lower sleeve edges. Press seam allowances toward cuffs. Press seam allowance on upper edge of each inside cuff piece to inside. With right sides together, stitch each inside cuff to side and lower edges of outer cuff. Trim seam allowances. Turn cuffs right-side out. Baste inside edges in place. Topstitch cuffs close to attachment seams. Stitch buttonholes as marked.


Q Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Hem lining 3⁄4" (2 cm) shorter than dress.

124B- 082014-USDress !!"


Green pattern line, sheets C2 and D1-D2Pattern pieces 21 to 25Size 36 AAAAA

Size 38 ===

Size 40 CCC

Size 42 67 67

Size 44 EEEEE

NZ_BS1310_124-1T




Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 60Finished length from waist: 263⁄4" (68 cm)Sleeves: 3" (7 cm) longer than normal

Materials Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide, with a pattern repeat of 291⁄4" (74 cm): sizes 36, 38: 3 pattern repeats, 88" (2.22 m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 4 pattern repeats, 117" (2.96 m)Note: Dress can also be made from solid fabric.Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm) long; twin sewing machine needle


PreparationTrace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Pleat arrows on pieces 21 and 24 are marked for size 36. For other sizes, mark pleat arrows between respective pleat lines. 125-

082014-USCoat !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1t0qCMU

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 59Finished back length: 371⁄2" (95 cm)Sleeve: 2" (5 cm) longer than normal

MaterialsBrushed wool fabric, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 34: 31⁄4 yds (2.9 m); sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 33⁄8 yds (3 m) Faux shearling, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 7⁄8 yd (.8 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 13⁄4 yds (1.6 m) for all sizesInterfacingNotions: 1 large fabric-covered button; 5 large sew-on snap fasteners


PreparationTrace pieces 1-10 from pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 2 and 7 as indicated. Trace hem bands from pieces 1 and 2 as separate pattern pieces. Cut piece 1 apart

Cutting layouts Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Sizes 36, 38Selvedge

Selvedge

Cut with right side up on a single fabric layer. The pieces shown with a broken outline should be placed on the fabric printed side facing down.

Sizes 40 – 44

Selvedge

Selvedge

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem: 11⁄4" (3 cm); sleeve hems: 2" (5 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Fine stretch jersey:21 upper front, cut 222 upper back, cut 1 on fold23 back yoke with sleeve, cut 224 lower front, cut 125 lower back, cut 1 on foldFusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of neck edge on inside upper front, and to yokes on attachment and neck edges.

ConstructionNote: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin machine needle to keep them flexible.

Q With right sides together, lay upper fronts together. Stitch along neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Lay seam allowances toward inside piece and understitch close to seam. Lay pieces wrong sides together. Baste together along side and lower edges. Lay pleats in upper and lower front in direction of arrows and baste. Stitch darts in upper back pieces. On outer piece, press dart toward center and on inside piece, press to the side. With wrong sides together, baste upper back pieces together, and treat as one layer for construction. Stitch darts in lower back. Press darts toward center.

Q Sew and attach yoke: Stitch center back yoke seam. Trim seam allowances to 1⁄4" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together and press to one side. Press seam allowances on front neck edges of yoke to inside, from pleat to seam number 1. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) from

edges. Lay shoulder pleats in direction of arrows and baste, then baste seam allowance on back neck edge to inside. Topstitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) from neck edge with twin needle catching pleats. In front, stitch yoke to upper front, from each seam number 1 to side edge. In back, stitch yoke to upper back (seam number 2).

Q Stitch right side seam and sleeve seam on upper piece as continuous seam. Stitch right side seam of lower piece. Stitch lower section to upper section. Press seam allowances up. Topstitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) on each side of seam.

Q Sew invisible zipper to left side edges, between opening marks (see instructions on page 66). Stitch left sleeve seam and side seam as continuous seam to zipper. Stitch left side seam from lower edge to zipper.

Q Turn dress and sleeve hem allowances to inside. From right side, use twin needle to stitch hems 1" (2.5 cm) from lower dress edge and 5⁄8" (4 cm) from lower sleeve edges.




on the marked seamline to make front and front band. Cut piece 2 apart on the marked seamline to make back and back yoke. To cut the lining, tape the cut-apart back pieces together again. Cut out all paper pieces.Button marking on piece 1 is for size 34. For other sizes, remark button according to size lines. Snap fasteners marked on piece 7 are for size 34. For other sizes, mark top snap same distance from upper edge as for size 34. Bottom snap is same for all sizes. Space other snaps evenly between.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Brushed wool: 1 front, cut 2 1 front band, cut 2 2 back, cut 1 on fold 2 back yoke, cut 1 on fold 3 side hood, cut 4 4 upper sleeve, cut 2 5 under sleeve, cut 2 7 front facing, cut 2 8 back facing, cut 1 on fold 9 welt, cut 410 pocket, cut 2a) 2 center hood pieces: size 34: 203⁄4" (52.5 cm); size 36: 21" (53 cm); size 38: 211⁄4" (54 cm); size 40: 211⁄2" (54.5 cm); size 42: 203⁄4" (55 cm) long, and 43⁄8" (11 cm) wideb) tie belt: size 34: 61" (155 cm); size 36: 63" (160 cm); size 38, 40: 65" (165 cm); size 42: 67" (170 cm) long, and 41⁄2" (11 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesFaux shearling: 1 front hem band, cut 2 2 back hem band, cut 1 on fold 6 sleeve band, cut 4Lining: 1 front, cut 2 to lining line2 back, cut 1 on fold minus neck facing and with 3⁄4" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 4 upper sleeve, cut 25 under sleeve, cut 210 pocket, cut 2 to lining lineInterfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Interface hem allowances on wool fabric pieces.

Construction Q Stitch back yoke to back. Press seam

allowances open.

Q With right sides together and hem band pointing up, stitch upper edge of back

hem band to back. Lay hem band down over seam. Baste side and lower edges in place. Also stitch hem band to hem allowance, close to marked hem line. Stitch front hem bands to fronts in same manner.

Q Sew welt pockets on fronts: With right sides together, stitch each interfaced welt to an un-interfaced welt piece, leaving attachment edge open. Trim seam allowances. Turn welts right-side out. With right sides together, stitch welts to fronts along marked attachment lines–welts point down. Lay each wool pocket piece on front, opposite welt, and stitch in place, 3⁄4" (2 cm) from welt attachment seam. This seam should be 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) shorter at side end than the welt attachment seam. Slash between stitching lines and clip diagonally toward each last stitch. Do not cut into pocket pieces. Pull pocket pieces to inside and press welts over pocket openings. Stitch pocket lining pieces to welt attachment seam allowances. Pull small triangles of fabric at pocket opening ends to inside and stitch to pocket pieces. Trim pocket pieces evenly and stitch together. Hand-stitch narrow edges of welts in place.

Q Stitch front bands to fronts. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch shoulder seams on coat and facing. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch each side hood piece to center hood piece. Press seam allowances open. Cut hood darts along center 31⁄4" (8 cm) long. Stitch outer hood to back neck edge, beginning and ending exactly at side dart line. Press seam allowances open. Stitch lower hood edges to fronts, from seam number 2 to corner. Clip seam allowance of fronts into corners. Stitch side hood edges to front, from corners to shoulder seam, then continue stitching, to stitch darts. Press seam allowances of hood attachment and darts open, pressing points of darts flat. Stitch inside hood to facing in same manner.

Q With right sides together, pin facing to coat, pinning hood edges together. Stitch along front and hood edges. Turn facing to inside and turn hood right-side out. Pin hood attachment seams together exactly. Lay facing forward/up again and understitch as far as possible, close to hood attachment seam. Turn facing back in place.

Q Stitch side seams and sleeve seams.

Q Stitch seams of sleeve bands. Stitch outer sleeve band pieces to lower sleeve edges, matching band seam to front sleeve

seam. Press seam allowances open. With right sides facing, lay inside bands on attached bands. Stitch lower edges together. Turn inside bands to inside. Lay inside edges of bands over attachment seams, not turned in. From garment right side, stitch along seamline, catching inner edge.


Q At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside, then turn down again. Turn facings to inside again.

Q Sew lining: On lining back, stitch ease pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5 cm) long, and baste pleat between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining seams. Set in sleeve linings.

Q Sew in lining; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn lining edge under along hem edge and press fold lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and pin to hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. On each sleeve, turn lining edge under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length down and press. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to inner band edges.

Q With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Trim ends at an angle. Stitch edges together, leaving a section of seam open for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew seam opening closed.

Q Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew top halves of snaps to right front facing as marked. Take even stitches and exit needle on right side of fabric. Lay coat closed. mark positions of bottom halves of snaps on left front. Sew on bottom halves of snaps. Sew large button to right front as marked.




center back seam on trousers and waistband. Press seam open from upper edge to beginning of curve. In front, turn inside waistband edge under 2" (5 cm) long, and baste. Lay remaining edge flat over attachment seam. From right side, stitch along attachment seam, catching inner edge. Stitch buttonhole in right waistband end. Stitch buttonhole for inside button in left waistband end.


Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Q Stretch seam edges: With right sides

together, lay back trouser pieces together. Press inside leg edges above seam mark, with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they match corresponding edge of front trouser piece.

Q Hip yoke pockets: With right sides together, stitch pocket pieces to pocket opening edges of front trousers. Turn pockets up and understitch close to seams. Turn pocket pieces to inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes at placement lines. On inside, stitch pocket pieces together. Baste pocket pieces to wrong side of trouser fronts, first trimming away allowance of right pocket piece along center front.

Q Stitch darts in back trouser pieces. Press darts toward center.

Q Stitch side seams and inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q Zipper: Press self-facings on opening edges to inside. Stitch along center front on right and stitch 3⁄16" (5 mm) before center front on left. Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underlap), close to teeth. Pin opening closed, matching center fronts. Stitch loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste facing in place. Topstitch opening from upper edge to 11⁄4" (3 cm) before end as marked. With right side together, fold underlap lengthwise and stitch across bottom end. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge and pin to opening facing. Stitch facing to underlap, close to zipper attachment seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to end, catching underlap.

Q Waistband and center back seam: Stitch side seams on waistband units. Stitch outer waistband units to upper trouser edges, leaving right waistband end extending past center front. Stitch left waistband end to underlap. Press attachment seam allowances toward waistband units. Trim extending right waistband end to 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) before center front. With right sides together, lay inside waistband units on attached outer waistband units, and pin edges together. Stitch across front waistband ends and along upper waistband edges. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. In back, turn inside waistband units up and press upper waistband seams open 4" (10 cm) long. Stitch

127A- 082014-USTrousers !!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1phEGS1

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 61Finished side length: 42" (106 cm) Waistband sits 3⁄8" (1 cm) below natural waistline Leg hem circumference: 14" (35 cm)

Materials Stretch gabardine, 60" (150 cm) wide: size 36: 15⁄8 yds (1.40 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 17⁄8 yd (1.7 m) Lining, for pocket, 12" ! 18" (30 ! 45 cm) InterfacingNotions: 1 zipper, 7" (16 cm) long; 1 button, 1 flat inside button


PreparationTrace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Note hem lines for view A. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening is marked for size 36. For other sizes, lay facing on front edge and mark inside edge as stitching line.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Stretch gabardine:21 front trouser, cut 2

126A- 082014-USTrousers !!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1mbFasn

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 56Finished side length, including waistband: 45" (115 cm)Leg hem circumference: 24" (60 cm)Note: These trousers are cut wider at the waistband to allow them to slip down during wear. If you don’t want this to happen, try on the trousers and make trousers and waistband fit correspondingly tighter.

MaterialsStretch suedecloth, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 13⁄4 yds (1.6 m); sizes 42, 44: 21⁄2 yds (2.15 m) Lining, for pocket pieces, 12" ! 20" (30 ! 50 cm) InterfacingNotions: 1 zipper, 7" long; 1 button; 1 flat inside button


PreparationTrace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 1 and 3 as indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening is marked for size 34. For sizes 36 - 44, mark stitching line same distance from center front as marked for size 34, noting opening length.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Stretch suedecloth:1 front trouser, cut 22 side hip yoke with pocket, cut 23 back trouser, cut 24 front waistband, cut 45 back waistband, cut 4a) left underlap piece: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 63⁄4" (17 cm); sizes 42, 44: 71⁄2" (19 cm) long, and 3" (7 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesLining: 1 pocket, cut 2




22 side hip yoke with pocket, cut 223 back trouser, cut 224 waistband, cut 425 right opening facing, cut 1, and as underlap, cut 2Lining: 21 pocket, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of right opening facing piece.

Construction Q Stretch seam edges: With right sides

together, lay back trouser pieces together. Press inside leg edges above seam mark, with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they match corresponding edge of front trouser piece.

Q Stitch back darts. Press darts toward center back.

Q Hip yoke pockets: See style 126A-082014-US, but do not trim away front seam allowance of right pocket piece.

Q Stitch side seams and inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open. Stitch center front seam from opening mark to inside leg seam.

Q Zipper: With right sides together, stitch right opening facing to right opening edge. Turn facing to inside and press edge. Press allowance on left opening edge (underlap) to inside, 3⁄16" (5 mm) before center front. Stitch zipper under edge, close to teeth. Pin opening closed, matching center fronts. Stitch loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste facing in place. Topstitch opening from upper edge to 11⁄4" (3 cm) before end as marked. Stitch underlap pieces together along curved long edge. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge and pin to seam allowance. Stitch opening edge seam allowance to underlap, close to zipper attachment seam. Close zipper. Topstitch to end of opening, catching underlap.

Q Waistband and center back: Stitch outer waistband pieces to upper trouser edges, leaving right waistband end extending past center front. Stitch left waistband end to opening underlap and leave remainder extending. Press attachment seam allowances toward waistband pieces. Trim extending right waistband end to 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) before center front. With right sides together, lay inside waistband pieces on attached outer waistband pieces, and pin edges together. On lower edges of front

waistband ends, turn seam allowances up and pin. Stitch across front waistband ends and along upper waistband edges. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn waistband sections right-side out. In back, turn inside waistband up again and press seams on upper waistband edges open 4" (10 cm) long. Stitch center back seam on trousers and waistband. Press seam open from upper edge to beginning of curve. Do not press allowances flat along curve. In front, turn inside waistband edge under, as far as zipper. Lay remaining edge flat over attachment seam. Sew underlap edges together. From right side, stitch along waistband attachment seam, catching inner edge. Stitch buttonhole in right waistband end. Stitch buttonhole for inside button in left waistband end.


134- 082014-USBlouse !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1gUSqmc

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 37Finished back length: 24" (60 cm)

MaterialsBlack Duchesse satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 44: 3 yds (2.7 m); size 46, 48, 50, 52: 31⁄8 yds (2.8 m) White Duchesse satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 3⁄4 yd (.6 m) for all sizesInterfacingNotions: 4 sew-on snap fasteners


PreparationTrace pieces 1-12 from pattern sheet. Cut piece 2 apart on the marked seamline to create upper and lower left front pieces. Cut all paper pieces. Pleat arrows on pieces 2, 3, 4, and 7 are marked for size 44. For other sizes, mark pleat arrows between respective pleat lines. Snap fasteners marked on piece 2 are for size 44. For other sizes, remark snaps according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); 3⁄4" (2 cm) on lower edge of piece 2; 15⁄8" (4 cm) for hem on peplum and sleeves

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown in cutting layouts and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Black satin: 1 right front, cut 1 2 lower left front, cut 1 3 right back, cut 1 4 left back, cut 1 5 right front peplum, cut 2 6 left front peplum, cut 2 7 back peplum, cut 2 on fold 8 upper sleeve, cut 2 9 under sleeve, cut 210 right front facing, cut 112 back facing, cut 1White satin: 2 upper left front, cut 111 left front facing, cut 1Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.


open. Lay pleats in back in direction of arrows and baste.

Q Stitch dart in upper left front. Press dart down. Stitch upper left front to lower left front. Press seam allowances open.

Q Work from inside to stitch pleats in fronts, as far as each arrow marking. Lay pleats in direction of arrows and baste.

Q Stitch shoulder seams on blouse and facings. Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch side seams on outside and inside peplum pieces. Lay peplum pieces right sides together. Stitch along front edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn peplum right-side out and press edges. Baste upper edges together. Neaten hem edges together. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Lay pleats in upper peplum edge in direction of arrows and baste.

Q Stitch peplum to lower front and back edges from seam number 9 to seam number 10, clipping seam allowance of left front into corner; seam allowances of fronts extend in front. Press seam allowances up.

Q With right sides together, lay facing on fronts and back, and pin in place. On left




front, turn lower edge seam allowance to outside and pin to front edge. Stitch along front and neck edges. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn facing and left front seam allowance to inside on lower edge. Press edges. Hand-stitch hem allowance in place. Sew inside facing edge to seams.

Q Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.


Q Sew 2 upper snap halves to inside of right front edge. Lay right front over left front, so that right front edge meets attachment seam of peplum and neck edge meets placement line. Mark positions of lower snap halves on left front. Sew lower snap halves in place as marked. Fasten front edge of left front to inside of right side seam with 2 snaps.

135- 082014-USBlouse !!!



Materials Jacquard with a 28" (70 cm) pattern repeat, 54" (137 cm) wide: 37⁄8 yds (3.5 m) for all sizes Note: Top can also be made in solid or overall print fabric.

InterfacingNotions: 4 sew-on snap fasteners



137- 082014-USJacket !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT:

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52on page 35Finished back length: 261⁄2" (67 cm)

Materials Taupe crêpe, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 44, 46: 17⁄8 yds (1.7 m); size 48: 2 yds (1.75 m); sizes 50, 52: 21⁄4 yds (2 m) Black crêpe, 54" (137 cm) 7⁄8 yd (.7 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 1 ⁄5 8 yds (1.35 m) for all sizes

Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2 and D1 Pattern pieces 1 to 12Size 44 3333

Size 46 4444

Size 48 55

Size 50 6666

Size 52 7777

NZ_BS1310_135T

Fold fabric as shown in the cutting layout—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Lay the asymmetric pieces on the right side of fabric with printed pattern sides up. Match pattern repeats.

Pleat arrows on pieces 2, 3, 4, and 7 are marked for size 44. For other sizes, mark pleat arrows between respective pleat lines. Snap fasteners marked on piece 2 are for size 44. For other sizes, remark snaps according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); 3⁄4" (2 cm) on lower edge of piece 2; 15⁄8" (4 cm) for hem on peplum and sleeves

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown in cutting layouts and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Jacquard: 1 right front, cut 1 2 left front, cut 1 3 right back, cut 1 4 left back, cut 1 5 right front peplum, cut 2 6 left front peplum, cut 2 7 back peplum, cut 2 on fold 8 upper sleeve, cut 2 9 under sleeve, cut 210 right front facing, cut 111 left front facing, cut 112 back facing, cut 1Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction See style 134-082014-US, omitting left Q

front section seam.

Cutting layout Jacquard, 54" (137 cm) wide

Selvedges

Selvedge

Fold




InterfacingNotions: 2 large sew-on snap fasteners, shoulder pads



CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown in cutting layouts and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Taupe fabric: 1 front, cut 2 2 center back, cut 2 3 side back, cut 2 5 peplum front, cut 2 6 center back peplum, cut 1 on fold 7 side back peplum, cut 2 8 upper sleeve, cut 2 9 under sleeve, cut 210 front facing, cut 211 back facing, cut 1 on foldBlack fabric: 4 collar, cut 4Lining: 1 front, to lining line, cut 2 2 center back, minus width of facing and with 3⁄4" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 3 side back, cut 25 peplum front, to lining line, cut 26 center back peplum, cut 1 on fold7 side back peplum, cut 28 upper sleeve, cut 29 under sleeve, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Also interface hem allowances of sleeves.

Construction Q Stitch center back seam, back section

seams, side seams, and shoulder seams.

Press seam allowances open.

Q Gather lower edges of front and back pieces between asterisks.

Q Stitch back section seams and side seams of peplum. Press seam allowances open. Stitch peplum to front and back pieces. Press seam allowances up.

Q Stitch center back collar seams. With right sides together, stitch collar pieces along outer edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right-side out and press. Baste collar edges together to neck edge.

Q Facing: Stitch facing shoulder seams. With right sides together and collar between, pin facing to jacket. Stitch along hem edge, front edges, and neck edge. On hem edge leave the last 11⁄4" (3 cm) open before facing ends. Turn facing to inside and turn hem allowance to inside. Press edges. Hand-stitch hem allowance in place. At neck edge, turn facing up forward/up and understitch as far as possible, close to seam.

Q Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place

Q Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps. Sew shoulder pads in place.

Q Sew lining: On center back lining pieces, stitch center seam together, 3⁄8" (1 cm) from edge. For the ease pleat, stitch along center back, at top and bottom for 2" (5 cm), and baste between. Press pleat to one side. Gather lining pieces and stitch together as for crêpe jacket.

Q Sew lining in place: Stitch lining to inside facing edge, turning lower facing edges down to do so. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside jacket, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn lining edge under along lower jacket edge, press fold lightly, and push upward in a shallow curve. Pin lining to hem allowance. Hand-stitch remaining open facing edges and lining to hem allowance. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to

HELPFUL HINT

For each snap half, cut a small circle of lining fabric slightly larger than the snap half (1). Sew a line of short running stitches along the edge of the lining piece (2) and do not cut thread. Lay the snap half face down on the lining circle wrong side. Pull the thread so that the lining covers the snap smoothly. Use the thread to sew the edges of the lining together, with crisscross stitches (3). Hide the thread end securely.

Cover snap fasteners with lining 1

2

3

hem allowances. Lay extra length of lining down and press.

Q Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew upper snap halves to right front facing as marked, taking even stitches and exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay jacket closed, matching center fronts. mark positions of lower snap halves on left front. Sew lower snap halves in place as marked.

138- 082014-USWrap Skirt !"

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1vOAzRT

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 35Finished length from waist: 251⁄4" (64 cm)Waistband sits at normal waistline

Materials Silk velvet, 45" (114.5 cm) wide: 13⁄4 yds (1.5 m) for all sizes Crêpe, 54" (137 cm) wide: 7⁄8 yd (.7 m) for all sizesInterfacingNotions: 1 large sew-on snap fastener, 1 flat inside button


PreparationTrace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Trace the facing from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); inside facing edge: 3⁄8" (1 cm); hem (pieces 22 and 23): 15⁄8" (4 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown in cutting layouts and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Velvet:21 right front skirt panel, cut 122 left front skirt panel, cut 123 back skirt panel, cut 2




Crêpe:21 right front facing, cut 1a) waistband, with 33⁄4" (9.5 cm) each for overlap and underlap: size 44: 41" (104 cm); size 46: 421⁄2" (108 cm); size 48: 45" (114 cm); size 50: 471⁄4" (120 cm); size 52: 493⁄4" (126 cm) long, and 2" (5 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesInterfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.


allowances open.

Q With right sides together, pin front facing to right front skirt panel. Stitch along hem and front edge. Turn facing over seam allowances and understitch close to seam. Turn facing to inside and baste to upper edge.

Q Stitch right side seam, turning facing on lower edge of skirt front down again to do so. Stitch left side seam. Press seam allowances open.

Q Turn front facing to inside again and press hem allowance to inside. Hand-stitch

139- 082014-USLong Top !"


Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52on page 34Finished back length: 391⁄2" (100 cm)Sleeves: 15⁄8" (4 cm) shorter than normal

Materials Stretch lamé, 40" (100 cm) wide: 3 yds (2.7 m) for all sizes Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide, for hem band: 3⁄8 yd (.3 m) for all sizesNotions: Fusible bias stay tape, twin sewing machine needle



Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem on hem band: 11⁄4" (3 cm); sleeve hems: 3⁄4" (2 cm)

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown in cutting layout and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Stretch lamé:1 front, cut 1 on fold2 back with integrated sleeve, cut 2a) bias facing strip: sizes 44, 46: 13" (33 cm); sizes 48, 50: 131⁄2" (34 cm); size 52: 133⁄4" (35 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Stretch jersey:Hem band, size 44: 34" (86 cm); size 46: 351⁄2" (90 cm); size 48: 373⁄4" (96 cm); size 50: 401⁄4" (102 cm); size 52: 421⁄2" (108 cm) long, and 83⁄8" (21 cm) wide Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of neck edge and sleeve attachment edges of back pieces (as far as seam number 3).

Construction Q Stitch bust darts in front. Press darts

down.

Q Front neck edge: With wrong sides together, fold and press facing strip lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to front

HELPFUL HINT

A wide variety of velvet is available today—silk velvet, cotton velvet, corduroy velvet, panné velvet or stretch velvet. The care of these different fabrics varies greatly as does their handling during sewing. Ask about the fiber content and care of your fabric at purchase. Remember the following information when working with velvet:

Q Velvet should not be stored flat. It is better to hang the fabric by attaching the selvedges to a clothes hanger.

Q On delicate velvet, do not rip finished seams since needle holes are permanent. We recommend first making the garment from inexpensive cotton. Then transfer any required alterations to the paper pattern before cutting out the velvet.

Q The color of velvet fabrics will be deeper and more intense when the fabric is cut against the nap. Run your hand over the fabric to determine the nap direction. The pile will lie flat when stroked with the nap and will be raised when stroked against the nap. The direction of the nap is noted on the pattern layout. Place all pattern pieces for one garment on the fabric in the same direction.

Q Should the pile fibers come off the cut edges of the fabric, neaten the edges immediately after cutting.

Q Use tailor‘s tacks to mark velvet. Use fine thread to hand-baste long stitches on a double layer of fabric, along the edge of the pattern piece, leaving a loop of thread in back of each stitch. Pull the fabric layers apart and carefully clip the threads between the layers.

Q Use only a fine needle and thread for basting. Also use a fine sewing machine needle with a sharp point.

Q To prevent velvet from slipping during stitching, insert the pins across the seamline and then stitch slowly up to them and remove. If your velvet has a deep pile, baste on each side of the seamline. It is important to stitch all seams in the same direction.

Q Choose an ironing temperature based on the fiber content. As a rule, press only from the wrong side and always test press a scrap of fabric first. Cotton velvet can be steamed at a wool setting. Velvet made from of silk, rayon or synthetic fibers should be pressed with low heat (setting for synthetics/silk) and without steam. Glide the iron over the fabric without pressure to prevent the pile from flattening. It is imperative that any pressing is done on a soft, textured surface. We recommend covering your ironing surface with a piece of velvet (pile side up) or with a thick terry cloth towel. Special surfaces for pressing velvet are available at fabric stores.

Q Sew-in interfacings are best for velvet. Use organza to interface delicate velvets.

Velvet

facing and hem allowance in place. Press seam allowance on left front skirt panel front edge to inside and stitch in place.

Q Gather upper edge of each skirt panel between asterisks to: size 44: 71⁄2" (19 cm); size 46: 8" (20 cm); size 48: 81⁄2" (21.5 cm); size 50: 91⁄8" (23 cm); size 52: 93⁄4" (24.5 cm). Lay pleats in right skirt front in direction of arrows and baste to upper edge.

Q With wrong sides together, fold and press waistband in half lengthwise. Unfold waistband again. Stitch waistband to upper skirt edge. Press seam allowances of attachment seam toward waistband. Fold waistband lengthwise, right sides together. On waistband ends, turn seam allowance on inside waistband edge up. Stitch across waistband ends. Turn waistband right-side out. Turn inside waistband edge under and baste over attachment seam. From outer side of skirt, stitch along attachment seam.

Q Stitch a buttonhole for inside button in left waistband end. Sew top half of snap to underside of right waistband end, taking even regular stitches and exiting needle on right side of waistband. Sew lower snap half to left waistband end to match.




neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece, 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch along neck edge seamline. Trim seam allowances and clip at center front. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge. Topstitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from neck edge.

Q Stitch center back seam. Neaten seam allowances together and press to one side.

Q Stitch sleeves to front (seam number 1). Press seam allowances toward sleeves. Press seam allowances on remaining neck edges to inside, turn in, and stitch 1⁄4" (6 mm) from edge.

Q Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams. Trim seam allowances, neaten together, and press toward back.

Q Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, turn in, and baste. From right side, use twin needle to stitch hem in place.

Q Stitch narrow edges of hem band together. Placing the band seam at the top right side seam, stitch hem band to lower front and back edges, stretching edges to match. Press hem allowance to inside. From right side, use twin needle to stitch hem 1" (2.5 cm) from lower edge.

Green pattern line, sheets B1-B2Pattern pieces 1 and 2Size 44 3333

Size 46 4444

Size 48 55

Size 50 6666

Size 52 7777

NZ_BS1310_139T

When working with shiny fabric, all pattern pieces should be cut in the same direction. Cut the front first from a double layer of fabric, right sides together. Cut remaining fabric apart to half the length. Lay both fabric pieces right sides together, in same direction as the front piece was cut, to cut out back piece.

140- 082014-USLeather trousers !!


Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 34Side length below waistband: 403⁄4" (103 cm) Waistband sits at normal waistlineLeg hem circumference: 13" (33 cm)

MaterialsStretch nappa leather. To make this style in size 46, you will need 4 leather skins with a total of 33 sq. ft. (1 sq. ft. = 30 ! 30 cm). Please ask your leather dealer about requirements for larger sizes since leather skins can vary greatly. We recommend taking the paper pattern with you when buying the leather.Alternative: Stretch imitation leather, 54" (137 cm) wide: 13⁄4 yds (1.6 m) for all sizes

Selvedges

Cutting layoutStretch lamé, 40" (100 cm) wide

Selvedges

Selvedges

Fold

Cut E

dges

Red pattern line, sheets A1-A2Pattern pieces 21 to 24Size 44 AAAAA

Size 46 ===

Size 48 CCC

Size 50 67 67

Size 52 EEEEE

NZ_BS1310_140T

Stretch lining, 54" (135 cm) wide: sizes 44, 46: 13⁄4 yds (1.6 m); size 48: 21⁄8 yds (1.9 m); sizes 50, 52: 21⁄4 yds (2.05 m) Fusible interfacing for leather Notions: 1 zipper: 7" (18 cm) long, 1 trouser hook and bar set, 1 flat inside button, textile adhesive, glue stick

Notes on leather (or imitation leather): We recommend that you first make the garment from inexpensive cotton fabric. Then transfer any required alterations to the paper pattern before cutting out the leather. Avoid basting leather and ripping seams since the needle holes are permanent. Press leather from the wrong side (cover with a pressing cloth), at a moderate temperature and without steam. Test press a scrap of the leather first.


PreparationTrace pieces 21-22 from pattern sheet. Cut pieces 21 and 22 apart on marked seamline. Tape these pieces together again to cut lining.




Stitching line at zipper opening is marked for size 44. For sizes 46-52, mark stitching line same distance from center front as for size 44, noting length of opening.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Leather/imitation leather:21 front trouser, divided, cut 222 back trouser, divided, cut 2a) right waistband: size 44: 163⁄4" (42.5 cm); size 46: 171⁄2" (44.5 cm); size 48: 183⁄4" (47.5 cm); size 50: 20" (50.5 cm); size 52: 211⁄8" (53.5 cm) long; left waistband with 2" (5 cm) underlap, size 44: 183⁄4" (47.5 cm); size 46: 191⁄2" (49.5 cm); size 48: 203⁄4" (52.5 cm); size 50: 22" (55.5 cm); size 52: 231⁄8" (58.5 cm) long, and each 2" (5 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) left underlap piece, sizes 44, 46, 48: 63⁄4" (17 cm); sizes 50, 52: 71⁄2" (19 cm) long, and 21⁄2" (6 cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesLining: 21 front trouser (whole), cut 222 back trouser (whole), cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on pattern layout.

Construction Q Stitch darts in front and back trouser

pieces. Cut each dart open along center to 11⁄4" (3 cm) above point. Press dart open and glue dart allowances in place with textile adhesive. Press dart points flat.

Q Stitch horizontal seams on front and back trouser pieces. Spread seam allowances open. Topstitch close to each side of seams.

Q Stitch side seams. Stitch inside leg seams, slightly stretching back trouser pieces. Spread seam allowances open and glue in place.

Q Stitch center front seam from opening mark to inside leg seam.

Q Zipper: Shorten zipper if needed. Press self-facings on opening edges to inside. Stitch along center front on right and stitch 3⁄16" (5 mm) before center front on the left. Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underlap), stitching close to teeth. Pin opening closed, matching center fronts. Stitch loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving trouser piece free. Glue

right facing in place with glue stick. With wrong sides together, fold underlap lengthwise, and stitch across bottom end. Lay underlap under left opening edge and glue to facing with glue stick. Stitch opening facing to underlap, close to zipper attachment seam. On right front trouser piece, topstitch opening edge as marked, from upper edge to 11⁄4" (3 cm) before end. Lay opening closed and topstitch to end, catching underlap.

Q Waistband and center back seam: With wrong sides together, fold each waistband piece in half lengthwise and press upper waistband edge. Unfold waistband pieces again. Stitch right and left waistbands to upper trouser edges, stitching waistband underlap to trouser underlap piece and leaving remainder of waistband underlap extending. Press seam allowances toward waistband pieces. Stitch center back seam on trousers and waistband. Spread seam allowances open from upper edge to beginning of curve, and glue in place with textile adhesive. Attach trouser hook to inside half of right waistband, 3⁄4" (1 cm) from end. Right sides together, fold waistband at each end. Stitch across right waistband end. On left end underlap, turn

seam allowances down again. Stitch along lower underlap edge and across end. Turn waistband right-side out. Turn inside waistband edge under and baste in place 2" (5 cm) long. Lay remaining edge flat over attachment seam. From right side, stitch along attachment seam. Attach fastener bar to waistband, to match hook location. Stitch a buttonhole for inside button in left waistband end. Sew button to inside waistband.

Q Stitch darts and seams of lining, leaving opening 3⁄4" (2 cm) longer than on main fabric. Stitch lining to lower waistband edge as far as possible, matching side seams. Pull lining into trousers. At zipper opening, turn lining edges under and pin to zipper tape on the right and to underlap attachment seam on the left. Hand-stitch remaining opening edges of lining to waistband. Sew lining opening edges in place 43⁄4" (12 cm) long and leave remainder loose.

Q Turn hem allowances to inside and glue in place with textile adhesive. Turn lining hem under and hand-stitch in place so lining is 3⁄4" (2 cm) shorter than trousers.

Cutting layouts Stretch nappa leatherSince leather skins can vary greatly, no pattern layout is given for the leather.

Alternative: Stretch imitation leather, 54" (137 cm) wideSizes 44 – 52


Lining, 54" (137 cm) wideSizes 44, 46 Sizes 48 – 52

SelvedgesSelvedges

FoldFold

Selvedges

Fold


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Detailed Hand-SewingSometimes you have to step away from the machine for accuracy and precision

BY AMANDA KAUFMANN

DOING IT RIGHT

THE FINE POINTHand-sewing needles come in different sizes and shapes designed for various types of sewing. The needle type is defined by its length, the size and shape of its eye, and whether the point is sharp or blunt. All-purpose needles are meant for most projects, and they’re medium length and sharp. Short needles are used for hand quilting, hemming, and other finishing techniques, while longer needles are used for basting, embroidery, and darning. Needle thickness corresponds to the weight of the fabric, with thin needles meant for light- to medium-weight fabrics, and thick needles designed for upholstery and other heavy

QUALITY AND CONTROLSo why sew by hand when you have a perfectly good sewing machine? One reason: hand-sewing gives you more control. This comes in handy if you’re trying to make a hem actually invisible, if you’re sewing very narrow pieces of fabric, if you’re shaping a garment, or if you just need your stitches to be as precise as possible. Plus, hand stitches are less likely to leave a mark on fragile fabrics if you need to take them out.

There are also times when hand sewing may be the preferred option, such as when attaching hook and eyes and shank buttons, adding beading and other embellishments, and showcasing embroidery designs.

Hand sewing is also portable — you can do it anywhere.

fabrics. Wider or longer needle eyes allow for thicker thread types, including upholstery thread, embroidery floss, and yarn for crewelwork.

PROPER PREPARATIONWhen you’re getting ready to start hand-sewing, it’s best to sit with the bulk of your fabric resting on a table in front of you. If you’re right-handed, you want to hold the fabric edge with your left hand and the needle in your right hand. As you sew, you will most likely move from right to left, depending on the stitch. The opposite is true if you are left-handed.

To thread your needle, insert one end of thread through the eye and pull through the length that you estimate you will need for your project. Work with a reasonable length

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sewing basics


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of thread — if it’s too long, it can knot and tangle. Although not always convenient, there’s nothing wrong with rethreading mid-seam.

If you are sewing double-threaded stitches, bring the ends of the thread together and tie them into an overhand knot. If sewing with a single strand of thread, make sure that the short end of the thread is at least 5” (12.5 cm) out of the needle’s eye to prevent it from falling out while sewing. You can either tie a knot at the end of the long length of thread, or you can secure the thread to the fabric by making several stitches on top of each other. Don’t be afraid to leave a thread tail coming out of your knot—just cut it away after you start sewing.

HAND-SEWING STITCHES

BASIC STITCHESThe most basic stitch is the running stitch. It is used to piece fabric together as well as for embroidery. After “knotting on” (securing the end of the thread to the fabric), insert the tip of the needle into the fabric 1/8” (3 mm) away and bring the needle point back up through the fabric another 1/8” (3 mm) from there, !” (6 mm) away from the

starting point. Pull through and repeat.The backstitch is a variation of the

running stitch, but is much stronger. After knotting on, pick up a 1/8” (3 mm) stitch. Pull the thread all the way through and insert the needle into the fabric 1/8” (3 mm) back (at your starting point). Pull the thread through and insert the needle into the fabric 1/8” (3 mm) ahead of all stitches, which is !” (6 mm) from the current thread position. To repeat, pull through and insert the needle 1/8” (3 mm) behind.

The whipstitch is another basic variant of the running stitch and is useful for joining two edges of fabric together, either for a very small seam allowance or for mending a hole in one’s clothes. It can also be sewn on the right side of the fabric as a decorative way to join seams. Knot-on and insert the needle from underneath, going through all layers of fabric until the needle comes out of the top fabric layer. Pull through and repeat by bringing the needle back to the bottom layer and inserting it 1/16” (2 mm) from where it was before, pulling through to the top layer. When using heavier threads, space stitches farther apart.

TEMPORARY STITCHESTemporary stitches are divided into two categories: basting and marking stitches. A basting stitch is meant to hold pieces of fabric together to check a garment’s fit or to keep them in the right position during construction. Hand basting stitches can also be used instead of pins when designing on a dress form as it allows you to take the garment easily on and off the dress form and reduces pinholes. A marking stitch, such as thread tracing or tailor's tacks, is used to show where pieces of fabric meet, such as pleats, tucks, and seam edges as well as dart and buttonhole

"Use fusible web to quickly attach facings to seamlines, like at shoulders, waistlines, and other turn-backs. Just cut a small square, insert it between the layers, and fuse." —!"#$% &'(#)( *(")+)#&(,*, &)-.#"-%! )$"&,(

FROM THE EDITOR

Threadless "sewing"If you don’t have the patience or the time to hand-sew a hem or baste fabric pieces together, and you just need a quick and simple (often temporary) solution, there are myriad no-sew products you can choose from, each suited to different purposes.

FUSIBLE WEB Available in rolls of various widths, pre-cut sheets, and by the yard, fusible web bonds two pieces of fabric together when inserted between them and ironed. Use this for fast hemming, securing trims, and appliquéing.

FUSIBLE ADHESIVELike fusible web except in sheet form, fusible adhesive can turn any fabric into an interfacing, or it can be trimmed to shape for appliqué work.

FABRIC GLUEFabric glue can be temporary or permanent, so check the label.

Use it to attach beads, sequins, and other embellishments to garments. It’s also great for

holding appliqué edges in place for hand stitching,

and holding notions, like buttons, in place for stitching.

Available in liquid and stick form.

FRAY PREVENTERFray preventer is liquid and designed to stop fabric edges and threads from fraying.

Like all sewing products, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use.

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Running stitch



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placements. Consider them the thread version of a marking pencil.

Basting and thread tracing are both simply running stitches, but with longer stitch lengths for speed and ease of removal. To thread trace, follow the lines that you would mark with a pencil through a single layer of fabric using a thread color that will be easily visible. You may also baste two layers together, such as the fashion fabric and underlining, to save some time.

Tailor’s tacks mark your fabric using thread. They mark two layers of fabric simultaneously while they are still attached to the pattern piece, and they’re also suitable for marking fabrics such as whites or very delicate sheers, where other marking methods may damage the fabric. To do a tailor’s tack, take a doubled length of thread, unknotted, and enter through the pattern piece at the desired point, going through all layers of fabric and leaving a 1” (2.5 cm) tail of thread. Reinsert the needle 1/8” (3 mm) away into the bottom layer of the fabric, pulling through all layers to the top. Repeat the first step, making sure to leave a 1-2” (2.5-5 cm) thread loop on top (i.e. don’t pull tight). Then, repeat the second step so that you end up with a thread loop that connects all layers. Cut the top loop and gently pull off the pattern piece. Separate the fabric layers enough to snip the threads between, making sure not to pull the fabric off of the tailor’s

tack on either side.

INVISIBLE STITCHESThe blind hem stitch is used for hemming tailored garments, making the hem secure on the inside and “invisible” on the right side, as its name suggests. Press under the hem allowance, turn under the edge 1/4” (6 mm) and knot-on within the hem seam allowance. Insert the needle into the garment, picking up only a couple of the fabric’s threads. Then, insert the needle into the hem folded edge, travel through the fold !” (6 mm) to "” (1.3 cm), and bring the needle out of the fold. To repeat, pick up a couple threads of the garment fabric where you exited the fold and continue around the entire hem.

The slipstitch is like the blind hem except that it is worked from the right side of the garment (like when closing a hole in a seam, or attaching a facing to a zipper tape). Knot-on to the folded seam allowance of one piece of fabric, and insert the needle into the other piece of fabric, making a running stitch !” (6 mm) in the folded-under seam allowance. If the second piece doesn’t have a folded-under seam allowance (like on a zipper tape), just make sure that the stitch runs underneath the first fabric layer so that it won’t show on the right side. Pull the thread through and insert the needle directly back into the first folded-under seam allowance, repeating

until done.The blind catchstitch is a variation of

the blind hem that provides stretch and more durability through its crisscross movements. It is particularly good for hemming heavy fabrics or fabrics with a bit of stretch. Knot-on to the hem seam allowance. Insert the needle into the garment "” (1.3 cm) away, pointing the tip back towards the starting point and picking up a few threads. Pull through and cross back to the forward direction, inserting the needle into the hem #” (2 cm) to 1” (2.5 cm) from original starting point. With the needle in the hem, change direction and make a "” (1.3 cm) stitch in the opposite direction, towards the starting point. Pull through, change direction, and insert needle into the garment, picking up a couple of threads.

AMANDA KAUFMANN is a New York-based writer and editor. Since 2006, Amanda has worked as a freelance reporter, freelance columnist, book editor, website content editor, proofreader, and fact-checker. She is constantly in the pursuit of learning something new, and loves to share what she has learned with others. Amanda also writes for LoveSewing.com.

columnist, book editor, website

Keeping your needles sharpYou know that little strawberry dangling from the top of your tomato pincushion? That’s not just for decoration — it’s for sharpening your pins and needles! Simply push them through the emery-! lled strawberry several times to sharpen the points.

Tailior's tack

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Blind catchstitch

sewing basics

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Blind hem stitch


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Look at your sewing machine and you’ll likely see some stitches you haven’t used. Beyond the basics that work for everyday sewing, depending on the model, there may be stitches awaiting your creativity.

STRAIGHT STITCHUsed for joining seams, the straight stitch is the workhorse stitch. For seaming, use a length of 2- 2.5 mm, backstitching at the beginning and end for security. Lengthen the stitch slightly and perhaps change to a heavier thread for topstitching an edge. If you maximize the length, a straight stitch is ideal for basting and gathering, whereas a shortened length is perfect for staystitching when you need to minimize stretch or distortion.

ZIGZAG STITCHA straight stitch gone sideways, the zigzag stitch is perfect at a narrow width to sew seams in knits that need flexibility. Mid-width, it’s ideal for overcasting the raw edge of a seam allowance. Shorten the length so stitches are close together, and it becomes a satin stitch, suitable for appliquéing. The zigzag can also be used for embellishing, mending, or attaching trims, elastic, and ribbons. The zigzag is ideal for couching (when sewn over yarn or heavy threads to secure them in a decorative pattern), which is often done with invisible thread. A zigzag sewn in one spot (using minimal to no stitch length) creates a bartack, used to reinforce pocket tops and other areas of stress.

STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH The straight stretch stitch is formed with two stitches forward and one stitch back in a single line. It allows your fabric to stretch and give without your seam threads breaking. Use it for reinforcing areas with

extra stress, like pant crotch seams or armholes; the seam can still be pressed open flat. The straight stretch stitch also makes a prominent topstitch thanks to the extra thread density.

MULTI-STEP ZIGZAG STITCHAlso called a three-step zigzag or mending stitch, the configuration of a multi-step zigzag stitch is designed to hold edges together, like those of a tear in your fabric. With multiple stitches going both right and left, this stitch is ideal for repairs, but also to sew on elastic and tame raw fabric edges for finishing.

BLINDHEM STITCHCombined with clever folding, the blindhem stitch creates a machine-sewn hem that is held in place with only small “bites” into the outer garment fabric. The blindhem is a combination of multiple straight stitches and single zigzag stitches, and a stretch blindhem offers a combination of small zigzags and a larger one for use on knits that need flexibility. The amount of fabric you catch with the single zigzag determines how much of the hem thread shows on the right side, so to keep it “blind”, your goal is to catch as little of the fabric as possible with that single zigzag. The blindhem stitch can also be used for appliqué, with the single zigzag catching the appliqué itself, while the stitches in between remain on the base fabric. A shell edge also uses the blindhem stitch.

Explore the multitude of stitches on your sewing machine

Stitch Variety

BY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG

ABOVE

Machine-stitched blind hemBELOW

Shell edge using blindhem stitch

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Get Playful!O Unless your machine has pre-set parameters for each

stitch, try getting a different look by lengthening or shortening it, or widening or narrowing it.

O Varying the thread can change even the most mundane stitch into something really fun. Try a 12-weight thread or buttonhole twist for stand-out stitching, rayon for lustrous sheen, or metallic for a dressier look. Invisible thread is an option when you’re looking for decreased visibility. Be sure to choose a corresponding needle size and type to the thread selection.

O Twin needles come in multiple widths and sew two parallel rows of stitching simultaneously. A twin needle can enhance your stitch's ho-hum appearance, and offer creative opportunities with even straight stitching.

“If your machine doesn't have any fancy stitches, specialty presser feet are the next best thing. There are feet for everyday sewing tasks such as hemming, binding, or sewing buttonholes, as well as fun techniques like sewing pintucks, pleats, and gathers... even adding fringe! If your local fabric orsewing shop doesn’t carry a big selection of specialty feet, look online. I'd be lost without my gathering foot!”—!"!#! $!"%&, !%%'%(!#( )*'(+,

FROM THE EDITORSTRETCH ZIGZAGSimilar to the straight stretch stitch, only with width, the stretch zigzag uses two stitches forward and one back, creating a bold zigzag appearance that offers extra give. Good for decorative uses, it mimics rickrack, and can also be used to attach flat trims like bias tape and braids, or for topstitching and seam accents.

FEATHER STITCHLooking like chicken footprints, the feather stitch is used decoratively to attach laces and trims, and also for highlighting seams on pieced projects. It’s sometimes used between two finished fabric edges to create an openwork area called fagoting.

OVERLOCK OR OVERCAST STITCHDesigned to mimic a serger stitch, the overlock/overcast stitch is ideal for finishing raw edges. Configurations vary by machine brand, but all finish a raw fabric edge, and sometimes require a special foot. The overlock/overcast stitch can also be used on stretch fabrics to attach ribbing or to sew a narrow seam and finish the raw edges in one pass.

SCALLOP STITCHUsed as an edge finish or sewn within a project as a decorative detail, scallop stitches are simple

The stitches on your machine can be used for utilitarian purposes and decorative purpose alike, so think outside the box to change the look of your stitch.

to do. The stitch combines varying zigzag widths and placements in a scallop pattern, and when the stitch is sewn close to the edge of your fabric, the excess fabric can be carefully trimmed down in order to create a clean, scalloped edge. Scallop stitches sewn off a finished edge, with only the scallop point catching the fabric, create a picot edge finish.

Since there’s a single bobbin creating a zigzag on the underside, twin needles create a ! exible hem for knit garments, and you’ll see them called for frequently in BurdaStyle designs.

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sew this!


Step-by-Step Project

THE CUTTING LAYOUTS……show how pattern pieces are to be laid out on the fabric and lining fabric and how to pin them in place. 1 Center front 2 Side front 3 Center back 4 Side back 5 Front peplum6 Back peplumAlso cut all pieces from lining fabric and interfacing.

THE BUSTIER PATTERN PIECES……are shaded pink on the pattern sheet to make them easy to ! nd. Lay pattern paper over the pattern insert and pin it in place. Trace all pattern pieces in the desired size, and transfer all markings. The arrows for side pleats on pattern pieces 5 and 6 and the arrow for the center fold on piece 6 are all marked for size 34. For sizes 36 to 44, mark the pleat arrows correspondingly, for your size.SEWING HINT: To find the correct size, measure your bust: size 34 = 311⁄2" (80 cm); size 36 = 33" (84 cm); size 38 = 34 3⁄4" (88 cm); size 40 = 31⁄4" (92 cm); size 42 = 37 3⁄4" (96 cm); size 44 = 391⁄2" (100 cm)

Not all bustiers are alike — this one has a peplum, which makes it rather special

Bustier

SHOPPING LIST: • Fine stretch gabardine, 60" (150

cm) wide: 1 yd (.9 m) for all sizes• Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes

34, 36: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 11⁄8 yds (1 m)

• Interfacing

NOTIONS• Boning, " " (1.3 cm) wide: " yd

(.45 m)• Hook-and-eye tape: " yd (.45 m)• Elastic, # " (6 mm) wide: sizes 34,

36: 34" (.85 m); size 38: 36" (.9 m); sizes 40, 42: 40" (1 m); size 44: 42" (1.05 m)

• Glue stick • Sewing thread• Pattern paper • Pencil• Scissors • Measuring tape/ruler • Straight pins • Tailor’s chalk • Hand-sewing needle• Zipper foot

BS1310_109WS_Z

BS1310_109WS_Z BS1310_109WS_Z

BS1310_109WS_TBS1310_109WS_T

Not all bustiers are alike — this one has a peplum, which makes

Bustier

SHOPPING LIST: • Fine stretch gabardine, 60" (150

cm) wide: 1 yd (.9 m) for all sizes• Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes

34, 36: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 1

• Interfacing

NOTIONS• Boning, " " (1.3 cm) wide: " yd

(.45 m)• Hook-and-eye tape: " yd (.45 m)• Elastic, # " (6 mm) wide: sizes 34,

36: 34" (.85 m); size 38: 36" (.9 m); sizes 40, 42: 40" (1 m); size 44: 42" (1.05 m)

• Glue stick • Sewing thread• Pattern paper • Pencil• Scissors • Measuring tape/ruler • Straight pins • Tailor’s chalk • Hand-sewing needle• Zipper foot

Peplum length is approx. 4 !" (12 cm)

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33

44

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77

Size 34Size 36Size 38Size 40Size 42Size 44

Gabardine, 60" (152.5 cm) wide, Sizes 34 – 44

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide, Sizes 34, 36

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide, Sizes 38 – 44

Extra pattern, shaded pink,Sheet A: pattern-pieces 1 to 6

Selvedges

Fold

Selvedges

Fold

Selvedges

Fold

Selvedges

Selvedges

Fold

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5Lay the center back pieces right sides together. Pin and stitch the center back, matching seamlines. Unfold the unit. Lay the side back pieces on the center back

unit. Pin and stitch side back seams. Lay the side fronts on the center front, right sides together. Pin and stitch side front seams. Press all seams open.

CENTER BACK SEAM AND SECTION SEAMS

4For sizes 34 and 36, cut out the lining pieces as explained in step 1. For sizes 38 to 44, fold the lining in half lengthwise.

Lay pieces 1 to 4 on the fabric, pin in place, and cut out. Fold the remaining lining widthwise, place pieces 5 and 6 on it, pin in place and cut out. Transfer seam and foldlines to the lining pieces.

CUTTING OUT LINING

Right side of fabric

1Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, with the right sides together. Lay all pattern pieces on the folded

fabric, according to the cutting layouts. Pin in place. Cut out fabric pieces.

CUTTING GABARDINE, ALL SIZES

2Fold the interfacing in half lengthwise, with the adhesive side facing in. Place pattern

pieces 2 and 4 on the interfacing and pin in place. Cut. Fold remaining interfacing widthwise. Place pattern pieces 1, 3, 5, and 6 on it and cut out. Fuse interfacing pieces to wrong side of corresponding fabric pieces.

INTERFACING

Right side of lining

3Use tailor’s chalk to transfer markings to wrong sides of pattern pieces. Hand baste the

fold and pleat lines to make them visible on the right side of the fabric.

TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO FABRIC

Interfacing


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7Lay the back peplum pieces right sides together, and pin the center back seam. Stitch, then

unfold the back peplum. Lay the front peplum on the back peplum unit and pin the side seams. Stitch the seams. Press the seams open. Sew the peplum lining pieces together in the same way.

SEW THE PEPLUM

HOOK TAPE

10 Lay the hook tape on the right front edge right side, with the hook side facing down. The upper hook is 3⁄16" (5 mm) below the marked upper edge and the

last hook is 3⁄8" (1 cm) above the foldline. The hooks lie on the bustier front, next to the marked front edge. Trim the lower end of the tape 3⁄16" (5 mm) below the last hook and turn end under. Stitch along the front edge, using a zipper foot. Fold the seam allowance with the tape to the outside and pin the upper end in place.

9 Working from the peplum right side, baste the upper edge pleats in the direction of the arrows. Stitch the lower edge of the bustier to the upper edge of the

peplum, right sides together. Press seam allowances up. Trim front edge seam allowances to 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide.

LAY PLEATS, ATTACH PEPLUM

8Place the gabardine and lining peplums right sides together. Pin together lower and front edges,

as far as the fold line. Stitch the lower edge. Stitch the front edge from the foldline down, stopping 3⁄8" (1 cm) before the lower edge seam. Beginning at the foldline, stitch diagonally to the edge of the seam allowance. Trim seam allowances and clip into the corners. Turn peplum right-side out and press. Baste the open edges together.

LINE THE PEPLUM

6Lay each bustier front on the bustier back, right sides together. Pin and stitch the side

seams. Press seams open. Lay boning tape along each side seam, beginning at marked upper edge seamline. Trim at marked seamline on lower edge. Glue the boning to the seam allowances. Sew boning edges to the seam allowances only.

SIDE SEAMS, BONING



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12On the lining pieces, stitch seams as for steps 5 and 6 without the boning. Lay the lining on the bustier, right sides together, and pin upper edges.

On the right front edge (over the hook tape), trim away lining seam allowance. On the left front edge, leave lining extend-ing. Stitch seam. Trim seam allowances. Turn the lining up and press seam allowances toward lining. Stitch the lining to the seam allowances, stitching close to the seam.

SEW LINING, STITCH LINING TO UPPER EDGE

11 Use the same number of eyes as hooks and trim the tape 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) below the last eye. Turn tape ends under, and sew in place. Place the eye tape

on the left front edge fabric right side, with the eyes facing down. The upper eye is 3⁄16" (5 mm) below the upper edge. The eyes lie on the bustier front, next to the marked front edge. Stitch along the marked front edge, stitching carefully across the eyes (use the hand wheel). Turn seam allowances to wrong side.

EYE TAPE

14Topstitch 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from the lower peplum edge, to form casing. Insert elastic into casing, for size 34: 311⁄2" (80 cm); size 36: 33" (84 cm);

size 38: 343⁄4" (88 cm); size 40: 361⁄4" (92 cm); size 42: 373⁄4" (96 cm); size 44: 391⁄2" (100 cm). Stitch the ends of the elastic in place, 3⁄8" (1 cm) from the front edges. Turn in the peplum along the fold. Fold the peplum to the inside, along the marked foldline. Hand-stitch front ends to peplum attachment seam. Sew lower peplum edge to side seams.

CASING FOR ELASTIC

13On the left center front and upper edges, turn the lining to the inside. Turn the lining edge under and pin to the eye tape and to the peplum attach-

ment seam. Hand-stitch in place. On the right front edge, fold the hook tape to the inside and pin it in place, over the lining. From the right side and using a zipper foot, topstitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) from the right front edge catching the inner tape edge.

SEWING LINING IN PLACE


Documents

Burda's Instruction a-D