4
An Old Farmer’s Almanac resource. Copyright © 2006 by Yankee Publishing Inc., Dublin, NH 03444 • Almanac.com TO BULBS BULBS Although bulbs may require a bit more atten- tion than some other plants, they certainly rival perennials and annuals for beauty and variety. Use them in rock gardens, as bor- ders in perennial gardens, or for a mass of color under a row of trees. Available in a range of colors, bloom times, and growing conditions, bulbs will enhance any garden or landscape project. If you plant both ten- der spring bulbs and hardy fall bulbs, you will be rewarded with a bounty of colorful flowers from spring through fall. PLANNING When planning a bulb garden, consider the height, color, bloom time, and hardiness-zone rating of each flower. But don’t be afraid to experiment. By planting in warmer micro- climates (areas that are protected from exposure to winds and extreme cold), you may be able to grow bulbs that are designated as only marginally hardy for your zone. RECOGNIZING BULB TYPES There are four types of bulbs—true bulbs, corms, rhizomes, and tubers. Although differ- ent in appearance, they all store nutrients and moisture in their fleshy tissue. True bulbs (e.g., allium, narcissus) are often an inverted heart shape, and they contain scales, which are individual sections that store nutrients. Corms (e.g., crocus, gladiola) are thickened underground stems that contain the nutri- ents needed to produce new leaves, roots, and flowers. They resemble true bulbs but are shorter and thicker. Rhizomes (e.g., anemone, calla lily) are thickened roots that grow horizontally. Tubers (e.g., cyclamen, dahlia) are flat, oval-shape roots that contain nutrients needed for new growth. Check to see if what you are planting is ten- der or hardy. In cold climates, tender bulbs need to be lifted and stored over the winter so that they don’t freeze; hardy bulbs stay in the ground. In warm climates, hardy bulbs need to be lifted and stored in a cold place over the winter for a dormant period; ten- der bulbs stay in the ground. PLANTING Plant bulbs in fine, crumbly soil with proper drainage. Use a shovel to turn and loosen the soil if it has not been turned over recently. Otherwise, use a trowel or bulb planter. Dig two to three inches below where the base of the bulb will sit. (A good rule to remember is to dig a hole that is about three times the height of the bulb.) Work in an organ- ic fertilizer such as aged manure or compost. Place the bulb into the hole with the pointed side up, and settle it in the bottom of the hole; plant flat tubers such as anemones and cyclamen sideways. (The base of the bulb should be in contact with the ground before filling the hole. An air pocket underneath the bulb can inhibit root growth.) Plant several bulbs close together if you want a cluster of colorful flowers. Water thoroughly (except dahlias) unless heavy rain or a hard freeze is expected. After the ground freezes, apply a layer of mulch—straw, salt-marsh hay, or oak leaves—about two inches thick. (Mulching before the ground freezes may provide an inviting home for small rodents.) FERTILIZING There are three times of year when it is important to fertilize flowering bulbs: when planting bulbs, to encourage root growth when sprouts appear above the soil, to help the foliage and flowers when the flowers die at the end of the sea- son, to give a needed boost to the bulb itself Tip for Better Blooms To get a head start with spring-planted bulbs, start them in indoor pots in early spring and then plant them in the garden when the ground has thawed. BUYING Buy only bulbs that are firm to the touch and free of blemishes. Discard any bulbs that are soft or show signs of growth, such as a green sprout. Don’t worry if the outer skin is loose; it won’t damage the bulb and may actually promote faster rooting once the bulb is planted. Remember that bigger bulbs produce bigger blossoms. (continued) The Old Farmer’s Almanac G ARDENER S G UIDE

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An Old Farmer’s Almanac resource. Copyright © 2006 by Yankee Publishing Inc., Dublin, NH 03444 • Almanac.com

TO

BULBSBULBSAlthough bulbs may require a bit more atten-

tion than some other plants, they certainly

rival perennials and annuals for beauty and

variety. Use them in rock gardens, as bor-

ders in perennial gardens, or for a mass of

color under a row of trees. Available in a

range of colors, bloom times, and growing

conditions, bulbs will enhance any garden

or landscape project. If you plant both ten-

der spring bulbs and hardy fall bulbs, you

will be rewarded with a bounty of colorful

flowers from spring through fall.

P L A N N I N G

When planning a bulb garden, consider theheight, color, bloom time, and hardiness-zonerating of each flower. But don’t be afraid to

experiment. By plantingin warmer micro-climates (areas that

are protected fromexposure to winds and

extreme cold), you maybe able to grow bulbs that

are designated as only marginallyhardy for your zone.

R E C O G N I Z I N G B U L B

T Y P E S

There are four types of bulbs—true bulbs,corms, rhizomes, and tubers. Although differ-ent in appearance, they all store nutrients andmoisture in their fleshy tissue.

■ True bulbs (e.g., allium, narcissus) are oftenan inverted heart shape, and they containscales, which are individual sections thatstore nutrients.

■ Corms (e.g., crocus, gladiola) are thickenedunderground stems that contain the nutri-ents needed to produce new leaves, roots,and flowers. They resemble true bulbs butare shorter and thicker.

■ Rhizomes (e.g., anemone, calla lily) arethickened roots that grow horizontally.

■ Tubers (e.g., cyclamen, dahlia) are flat,oval-shape roots that contain nutrientsneeded for new growth.

■ Check to see if what you are planting is ten-der or hardy. In cold climates, tender bulbsneed to be lifted and stored over the winterso that they don’t freeze; hardy bulbs stay inthe ground. In warm climates, hardy bulbsneed to be lifted and stored in a cold placeover the winter for a dormant period; ten-der bulbs stay in the ground.

P L A N T I N G

■ Plant bulbs in fine, crumbly soil withproper drainage.

■ Use a shovel to turn and loosen the soil ifit has not been turned over recently.Otherwise, use a trowel or bulb planter.

■ Dig two to three inches below where thebase of the bulb will sit. (A good rule toremember is to dig a hole that is aboutthree times the height of the bulb.)

■ Work in an organ-ic fertilizer suchas aged manure orcompost.

■ Place the bulb intothe hole with thepointed side up,and settle it in thebottom of the hole; plant flat tubers suchas anemones and cyclamen sideways.(The base of the bulb should be in contactwith the ground before filling the hole. Anair pocket underneath the bulb can inhibitroot growth.)

■ Plant several bulbs close together if youwant a cluster of colorful flowers.

■ Water thoroughly (except dahlias) unlessheavy rain or a hard freeze is expected.

■ After the ground freezes, apply a layer ofmulch—straw, salt-marsh hay, or oakleaves—about two inches thick. (Mulchingbefore the ground freezes may provide aninviting home for small rodents.)

F E R T I L I Z I N G

There are three times of year when it isimportant to fertilize flowering bulbs:

■ when planting bulbs, to encourage rootgrowth

■ when sprouts appear above the soil, tohelp the foliage and flowers

■ when the flowers die at the end of the sea-son, to give a needed boost to the bulb itself

Tip for Better Blooms■ To get a head start with spring-planted bulbs,

start them in indoor pots in early spring and

then plant them in the garden when the

ground has thawed.B U Y I N G

■ Buy only bulbs that are firm to the touchand free of blemishes. Discard any bulbsthat are soft or show signs of growth, suchas a green sprout.

■ Don’t worry if the outer skin is loose; itwon’t damage the bulb and may actuallypromote faster rooting once the bulb isplanted.

■ Remember that bigger bulbs producebigger blossoms.

(continued)

The Old Farmer’s AlmanacG A R D E N E R’S G U I D E

Page 2: bulbguide-5081

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An Old Farmer’s Almanac resource. Copyright © 2006 by Yankee Publishing Inc., Dublin, NH 03444 • Almanac.com

Page 3: bulbguide-5081

An Old Farmer’s Almanac resource. Copyright © 2006 by Yankee Publishing Inc., Dublin, NH 03444 • Almanac.com

N A T U R A L I Z I N G

Many bulbs are described as “good fornaturalizing.” This means that once they areplanted, they will come up year after yearand spread informally. When planting bulbs,create a natural effect by gently tossing ahandful of bulbs onto the area and plantingthem where they land. In a large area, suchas a lawn, use a sharp spade to dig up a sec-tion of turf about one to two inches thick.Roll or lift the turf to one side. With a bulbplanter, make a hole for each bulb, insert thebulbs, and then replace the turf.

R O D E N T P R O O F I N G

■ Plant a clove of garlic with each bulb tokeep voles from eating newly plantedbulbs.

■ Place a section of screen or chicken wireover newly planted bulbs to keep squirrelsand other small rodents away from them.When new growth emerges, remove thescreen or chicken wire.

■ Line the bottom of each planting hole withchipped stone. Position the bulb in thehole, and then add more stone until all butthe top of the bulb is buried, making surenot to cover the pointed tip of the bulb. Fillany gaps with soil.

■ Plant several bulbs together in a wire-meshbasket or plastic colander. Dig a trench orhole large enough to accommodate thecontainer, making sure that the depth isappropriate for the bulbs. Place the con-tainer into the trench, and position and sta-bilize the bulbs. Fill with soil. For bulbsthat you will lift in the fall, you can easilyjust dig up the whole container.

D E A D H E A D I N G

Remove dead blossoms to encourage newblossoms and leaf growth. Once the oldblossoms are removed, the plant is no longerable to produce seeds. Preventing the flowerfrom producing seeds allows the bulb tobecome larger, which will produce largerblooms for the next season. If you are natu-ralizing bulbs, leave the blossoms on the

stem to die, so that they will produce seedsand continue to multiply.

Leaves should be left uncut, however,even after the plant has bloomed. Do not cut,pull off, knot, or bend the leaves. Wait forthem to turn yellow or brown. Then gentlypull or cut off old leaves.

L I F T I N G

In a cold climate, lift tender bulbs, and in awarm climate, lift hardy bulbs. Remember tolift bulbs in the fall once the leaves haveturned yellow or brown. All bulbs need to bedried before storing. Follow these simplesteps and you will be able to replant the bulbsnext spring for another season full of colorfulblooms.

■ Use a garden fork to dig up the bulbs, andshake off any loose dirt.

■ Gently separate small bulblets from theparent bulb with your fingers. If a bulbletcan not be removed easily, do not try tobreak it apart. It means that it is not readyto be separated.

■ Use a sharp knife to remove any remainingfoliage, cutting as close to the top of thebulb as possible.

■ Place bulbs on a slightly raised wire rack orscreen to dry, spacing them for adequate aircirculation. Invert any corms that have ahollow stem so that the moisture can drain.

■ When the bulbs are dry, brush off anyremaining loose dirt.

S T O R I N G

TENDER BULBS

In cold areas, tender bulbs need to be storedover the winter and replanted the followingspring. This is so that they don’t freeze in theground, but they will still need a cool placefor dormancy. Recommended storage optionsinclude:

■ Place bulbs into a wooden produce boxfilled with loose, clean, porous material,such as sawdust, Styrofoam packingpeanuts, wood shavings, or coarse peatmoss. Or wrap bulbs in newspaper andplace them into a plastic bag punched withholes, a brown paper bag, or a mesh bag,such as a recycled onion bag. Never storethem in an airtight container.

■ Store bulbs in a cool, dry location, such asa garage or basement, ideally between 40°and 50°F.

■ Check the bulbs every few weeks to makesure that they are not rotting. If a bulbshows any signs of decay, throw it outbefore it infects the remaining bulbs.

HARDY BULBS

In warm areas, bulbs such as tulips, daf-fodils, and crocuses need an artificial coldperiod to simulate winter and to trick theminto dormancy. The dormant period is whenthe bulb rests and stores the nutrients it willneed when it is replanted the following spring.

■ Use boxes or bags as described above tocontain and protect the bulbs.

■ Place them into a refrigerator (not a freez-er) for about eight weeks.

■ Check the bulbs as described above toavoid decay or rot.

D I V I D I N G

The best time to divide bulbs is during theirdormant period. Most hardy bulbs that willstay in the ground throughout the winter canbe dug up before the ground freezes, separat-ed (using the same method described for lift-ing bulbs), and then replanted immediately.

Crocus sativus, an autumn-blooming

crocus, is the source of saffron. Each

flower contains three stigmas. These

are picked by hand and dried, becom-

ing the saffron filaments used in cook-

ing. It takes more than 75,000 of the

flowers to make just one pound of saf-

fron filaments.

The Latin name for daylilies, Hemero-

callis, means “beautiful for one day.”

Daylilies can truly be thought of as the

“beginner’s bulb.” They are hardy

perennials bothered by few insects or

diseases, and they are able to survive

in less-than-ideal conditions. Although

they can tolerate very little water, they

will flourish if well watered. And though

they can withstand shade, they do best

when they receive five to six hours of

sunshine. Left on their own, they will

spread to bushy plants boasting new

blossoms every day. When new stems

develop above the old crowns, and the

plants are pushed up above the soil, it

is time to divide them.

Bulb Bits

Tip for Better Blooms■ Plant gladioluses at frequent intervals for

blooms throughout the summer. In the South,

plant every two to three weeks from January

through May. In the North, plant every two to

three weeks from April through June. Glads

will also perform better if they are replanted

in a new location each spring.

Tip for Better Blooms■ Cut dahlias frequently if you want continuous

blooms for flower arrangements throughout

the summer. If you want fewer but larger flow-

ers, remove all but the top bud. This will force

the production of prizewinning blossoms.

Page 4: bulbguide-5081

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11W

ell-d

rain

ed/m

oist

IY

66

Sprin

g8–

12N

orth

of Z

one

9, p

lant

in sp

ring,

lift

in fa

ll

Beg

onia

Beg

onia

10–1

1W

ell–

drai

ned/

moi

stI

Y12

–15

1–2

Sum

mer

to la

te fa

ll8–

18W

ill ro

t eas

ily if

pla

nted

too

deep

Blu

ebel

lH

yaci

ntho

ides

4–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

/ferti

leI

Y4

3–4

Sprin

g 8–

20Ex

celle

nt fo

r bor

ders

, roc

k ga

rden

s and

nat

ural

izin

g

Cap

e co

wsl

ipLa

chen

alia

9–10

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

st/s

andy

IY

21

Sprin

g6–

12N

orth

of Z

one

9, p

lant

in sp

ring,

lift

in fa

ll

Chr

istm

as ro

se/h

elle

bore

Hel

lebo

rus

4–8

Neu

tral–

alka

line

IY

181–

2Sp

ring

12H

ardy

, but

requ

ires s

helte

r fro

m st

rong

, col

d w

inds

Cra

nesb

ill

Ger

aniu

m4–

9W

ell-d

rain

ed/fe

rtile

IY

44

Sprin

g to

ear

ly su

mm

er8–

12H

ardy

; sui

tabl

e fo

r roc

k ga

rden

s, b

orde

rs, a

nd g

roun

d co

ver

Cro

cus

Cro

cus

3–8

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

st/fe

rtile

IY

43

Early

sprin

g5

Nat

ural

izes

wel

l in

gras

s

Daf

fodi

lN

arci

ssus

3–10

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

st/fe

rtile

IY

66

Early

sprin

g14

–24

Plan

t und

er sh

rubs

or i

n a

bord

er

Des

ert c

andl

e/fo

xtai

l lily

Ere

mur

us5–

9W

ell-d

rain

ed/s

andy

/ferti

leI

Y24

6Sp

ring

36–8

4Pr

ovid

e w

inte

r mul

ch in

col

der z

ones

Dog

’s-to

oth

viol

et/tr

out l

ilyE

ryth

roni

um3–

9W

ell-d

rain

ed/m

oist

/ferti

leI

Y4–

63

Sprin

g6–

24A

good

cho

ice

for s

prin

g gr

ound

cov

er u

nder

dec

iduo

us sh

rubs

Elep

hant

’s e

ars/

pigs

quea

kB

erge

nia

3–8

Wel

l-dra

ined

IY

12–2

41–

2La

te sp

ring

8–18

Use

in w

oodl

and

gard

ens o

r as a

gro

und

cove

r; m

ulch

in fa

ll

Friti

llary

Fri

tilla

ria

3–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

/san

dyI

Y3

3M

idsp

ring

6–30

Diff

eren

t spe

cies

can

be

plan

ted

in ro

ck g

arde

ns, w

oodl

and

gard

ens,

or b

orde

rs

Fum

ewor

tC

oryd

alis

solid

a5–

7W

ell-d

rain

ed/m

oist

/ferti

leI

Y4–

53

Sprin

g6–

12G

reat

for w

oode

d ar

eas;

nat

ural

izes

eas

ily

Glo

ry o

f the

snow

Chi

onod

oxa

3–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

stI

Y3

3Sp

ring

4–10

Self-

sow

s eas

ily; p

lant

in ro

ck g

arde

ns, r

aise

d be

ds, o

r und

er sh

rubs

Gra

pe h

yaci

nth

Mus

cari

4–10

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

st/fe

rtile

IY

3–4

2–3

Late

win

ter t

o sp

ring

6–12

Use

as a

bor

der p

lant

or i

n w

ildflo

wer

and

rock

gar

dens

; sel

f-so

ws e

asily

Iris

, bea

rded

Iris

3–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

IY

44

Early

sprin

g to

ear

ly su

mm

er3–

48N

atur

aliz

es w

ell;

good

cut

flow

er

Iris

, ret

icul

ata

Iris

5–8

Wel

l-dra

ined

/ferti

leI

Y2–

44

Late

win

ter t

o ea

rly sp

ring

2–6

An

exce

llent

cho

ice

for r

ock

gard

ens

Iris

, Sib

eria

nIr

is4–

9W

ell-d

rain

edI

Y4

4Ea

rly sp

ring

to m

idsu

mm

er18

–48

An

exce

llent

cut

flow

er

Lord

s and

ladi

esA

rum

6–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

st/fe

rtile

IY

124–

5M

idsp

ring

to m

idsu

mm

er6–

18N

eeds

full

sun

to fl

ower

wel

l

Orn

amen

tal o

nion

Alli

um3–

10W

ell-d

rain

ed/m

oist

/ferti

leI

123–

4La

te sp

ring

to e

arly

sum

mer

6–60

Usu

ally

pes

t-fre

e; a

gre

at c

ut fl

ower

Qua

mas

hC

amas

sia

3–10

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

stI

Y6–

94

Sprin

g 12

–30

Nat

ural

izes

wel

l nea

r stre

ams o

r pon

ds

Sham

rock

/sor

rel

Oxa

lis

5–10

Wel

l-dra

ined

IY

4–6

2Su

mm

er

2–12

Gre

at a

s a w

oodl

and

grou

nd c

over

Sibe

rian

squi

ll/sp

ring

squi

llSc

illa

sibe

rica

5–8

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

st/fe

rtile

IY

8–10

3–4

Late

win

ter t

o sp

ring

6–28

Goo

d fo

r ind

oor f

orci

ng

Snow

drop

Gal

anth

us3–

9W

ell-d

rain

ed/m

oist

/ferti

leI

Y3

3Sp

ring

6–12

Bes

t whe

n cl

uste

red

and

plan

ted

in a

n ar

ea th

at w

ill n

ot d

ry o

ut in

sum

mer

Snow

flake

Leuc

ojum

5–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

st/s

andy

IY

44

Sprin

g6–

18N

atur

aliz

es w

ell

Sprin

g st

arflo

wer

Iphe

ion

unifl

orum

6–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

loam

IY

3–6

3Sp

ring

4–6

Frag

rant

; nat

ural

izes

eas

ily

Star

of B

ethl

ehem

Orn

ithog

alum

5–10

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

stI

Y2–

54

Sprin

g to

sum

mer

6–24

Nor

th o

f Zon

e 5,

pla

nt in

sprin

g, li

ft in

fall

Strip

ed sq

uill

Pusc

hkin

ia sc

illoi

des

3–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

IY

63

Sprin

g4–

6N

atur

aliz

es e

asily

; mak

es a

n at

tract

ive

edgi

ng

Tulip

, Dar

win

hyb

ridTu

lipa

4–8

Wel

l-dra

ined

/ferti

leI

Y6

6M

idsp

ring

30Ex

celle

nt fo

r bor

ders

, roc

k ga

rden

s, a

nd n

atur

aliz

ing

Tulip

, dou

ble

early

Tulip

a4–

8W

ell-d

rain

ed/fe

rtile

IY

3–4

4Ea

rly sp

ring

8–12

Exce

llent

for b

orde

rs, r

ock

gard

ens,

and

nat

ural

izin

g

Tulip

, dou

ble

late

Tulip

a4–

8W

ell-d

rain

ed/fe

rtile

IY

66

Mid

sprin

g18

–20

Exce

llent

for b

orde

rs, r

ock

gard

ens,

and

nat

ural

izin

g

Tulip

, frin

ged

Tulip

a4–

8W

ell-d

rain

ed/fe

rtile

IY

66

Late

sprin

g24

Exce

llent

for b

orde

rs, r

ock

gard

ens,

and

nat

ural

izin

g

Win

dflo

wer

Ane

mon

e 3–

9W

ell-d

rain

ed/m

oist

IY

3–6

2Ea

rly su

mm

er3–

18Pl

ant b

enea

th sp

ring-

flow

erin

g sh

rubs

and

allo

w to

nat

ural

ize

Win

ter a

coni

teE

rant

his

4–9

Wel

l-dra

ined

/moi

st/fe

rtile

IY

32–

3La

te w

inte

r to

sprin

g2–

4Se

lf-so

ws a

nd n

atur

aliz

es e

asily

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