Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Post Base
Beam
Post
Stair Tread
Stair Stringer
Concrete Pier(underground)
Concrete Footing(underground)
Ledger Board
Outside JoistBlocking
Header Joist
Joists
Deck Boards(Decking)
Cleared GravelArea for Deck
Balusters
Railing Post
Railing CapRails
CONTENTS
2 Getting Started
4 Parts of a Deck
5 Span Tables
6 Ledger Board
10 Foundation Layout
12 Footings / Piers
14 Posts / Beams
16 Joists
18 Decking
24 Stairs
28 Railings
32 Finishing andMaintenance
Non-incised and incisedpressure-treated wood.
– 1 –
WELCOMEThis booklet illustrates the most common basic techniques of outdoor deckconstruction using pressure-treated wood in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska.This information is provided as a guide for working with pressure-treated wood.
What is pressure-treated wood?Most pressure-treated wood used in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska is madefrom western hemlock and white fir lumber (known collectively as hem-fir). Thelumber is treated in a vacuum/pressure cycle which forces a preservative intothe wood. The process chemically binds the preservative to the wood fibers,permanently fixing it into the wood. This protects the wood from rot, decay, andinsect attack. The treating process does not protect the wood from the effectsof weathering—in particular cracking, splitting, and checking from sun exposure.
Why does some pressure-treated wood have inciser marks?Incised pressure-treated wood is for use where lumberwill make direct contact with the ground (or be close to it).The inciser notches allow preservative to penetrate deeperinto the wood providing increased protection. Incised pressure-treated wood is commonly used for fence posts and the undersidestructural support members of outdoor decks and stairs.
What kinds of pressure-treated wood are available?Until recently most residential pressure-treated wood was made withchromated copper arsenate (CCA). An industry-wide phase out of CCAproduction began in 2001. The majority of residential pressure-treatedwood available today is treated with the more environmentally friendlyalkaline copper quaternary (ACQ). Check tag at board end to identify treatment.
Should I let my deck “season” for 3-4 months before sealing?No, a high quality water repellent should be applied immediately after completingan outdoor deck (providing the wood is dry). The USDA Forest Products Laboratoryhas shown that not sealing a deck immediately after construction reduces the lifeof the wood by as much as 20% due to weathering.
© 2002 Jerry Henness
SWT HOW TO is a trademarkof Superior Wood Treating
Build A Deck With Pressure-Treated Wood isintended as a guide for working with pressuretreated wood. The author and sponsors assumeno responsibility for any damage to property, orany injuries suffered, or any losses incurred asa result of following directions offered in thisbook. Consult your local building dept. for allapplicable structural requirements in your area.
Stack pressure-treated lumberimmediately after delivery forair drying with the first boards
needed on top.
Wear safetyprotection.
– 2 –
GETTING STARTEDThe construction specifications used in this booklet follow the most common coderequirements for outdoor decks in the United States, however a local buildingdepartment should be consulted first for restrictions and permits.
SAFETY FIRSTAs with any construction project, building a deck requires care andcaution to avoid accidents. Always wear eye protection when usingpower tools or striking objects such as nails. A dust mask shouldbe worn whenever using a saw. Gloves should be worn wheneverapplying stains, sealers, and wood preservatives. After working withpressure-treated wood, wash hands before eating.
ORDERING LUMBERThe framing substructure of an outdoor deck should be built exclusively withpressure-treated wood, preferably ground contact lumber (incised). The deckingboards and railings can also be made from pressure-treated wood or from anaturally rot resistant wood such as cedar or redwood.
Allow for waste and natural imperfections in wood by adding about 10% to theamount of lumber required for your deck when ordering lumber. Waste can beminimized by designing a deck to take standard lengths of lumber in two footincrements. When designing a deck allow for trimming the ends of deck boards.A 20 foot deck may need to be 19 feet 8 inches in actual length.
When possible, lumber should be ordered toarrive on the site 2–3 weeks before constructionis to begin. Lumber should be sorted and stackedimmediately after delivery for air drying. Spacersare placed between the layers to allow even airflow. Weights should be set on the top boards abovethe spacers and the whole stack should be protectedfrom sun and rain with a weighted tarp or plywood sheetleaving the sides open for air flow.
Lumber Dimensions
CHECK LUMBERLumber may not have perfectly square ends from the mill. All lumber should bedouble-checked and trimmed where it structurally needs to be square or whereit will be in an exposed location.
Additionally, the actual width of lumber may vary due to moisture content anddifferent milling lots. The ends of pressure-treated wood tend to swell slightly fromthe treatment process. When butting deck boards, put the ends of boards togetheror cuts from the middle sections of boards together for a perfect fit.
TREAT CUT ENDSThe pressure treating process usuallypenetrates the wood about 1/4–1/2 inchesdeep. Cutting and drilling treated woodexposes untreated interior areas of thelumber which need additional protection.
A wood preservative (preferably anend-cut solution) should be brushed oncut ends and drilled holes of pressure-treatedlumber during construction when the cuts andholes are made. Ideally 2–3 coats should beapplied, waiting 2–3 minutes between coats.This is an important step under the terms of mostpressure-treated wood warranties.
USE GOOD QUALITY FASTENERSUse only hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails, bolts,nuts, and washers. It is tempting to buy the cheapest fastenersyou can find, however non-galvanized fasteners quickly rust and leaveunsightly streaks and stains on wood and concrete. Future repairs or alterationsbecome more difficult due to the rusted bolts, nuts, and washers fusing together.The wet climates of Western Washington and Southeastern Alaska will, with time,rust non-galvanized fasteners even when they are out of direct weather. Whenchoosing deck screws look for a multi-coated screw that is specially made forpressure-treated wood decking.
– 3 –
Check board ends for square.Trim if necessary.
Brush on an end-cut solutionon all cut ends and drilled holes
of pressure-treated wood.
Check board widths for a good fit.Pressure-treated lumber will vary.
Actual
3/4" x 3 3/4"
3/4" x 5 3/4"
1 1/2" x 3 1/2"
1 1/2" x 5 1/2"
1 1/2" x 7 1/4"
1 1/2" x 9 1/4"
1 1/2" x 11 1/4"
3 1/2" x 3 1/2"
5 1/2" x 5 1/2"
Nominal
1 x 4
1 x 6
2 x 4
2 x 6
2 x 8
2 x 10
2 x 12
4 x 4
6 x 6
Beam
Post
Ground Line
Frost Line
SIDE VIEW (Deck Width) FRONT VIEW (Deck Length)
Joist Span Cantilever
Joist Spacing
BeamOverhangBeam Span
Beam
Joist
Deck as shown: 10'x16'Deck height: 35" above the groundRailing height: 38" above the decking
Joists: 2x8sDeck Boards: 2x6sRailing Posts: 4x4sBalusters: 2x2s
Beam: 4x8Deck Posts: 4x4sPier Diameter: 8"Footings: 12"x12"
Stair Tread
Stair Stringer
Concrete Pier(underground)
Concrete Footing(underground)
Ledger Board
Outside Joist
Blocking
Header Joist
Joists
Deck Boards(Decking)
Cleared Area for Deck
Balusters
Railing Posts
Railing CapRails
Half-Post
– 4 –
PARTS OF A DECK
Maximum Post Heights (Hem-Fir #2 and better)
4 x 4
4 x 6
6 x 6
Post Size
up to 12 ft. high
Load Area in Sq. Ft. (joist span x beam span)36 sq. ft. 48 sq. ft. 60 sq. ft. 72 sq. ft. 84 sq. ft. 96 sq. ft. 108 sq. ft. 120 sq. ft. 132 sq. ft.
up to 10 ft. high
up to 12 ft. high
up to 8 ft. high
up to 10 ft. high
up to 12 ft. high
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
Maximum Beam Spans Between Posts (Hem-Fir #2 and better)
6 ft.
7 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
6 ft.
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
9 ft.
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
8 ft.
10 ft.
6 ft.
7 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
9 ft.
10 ft.
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
9 ft.
10 ft.
11 ft.
6 ft.Joist Span
4 x 6
3 x 8
4 x 8
3 x 10
4 x 10
3 x 12
4 x 12
Beam Size
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
9 ft.
10 ft.
11 ft.
12 ft.
5 ft.Joist Span
6 ft.
7 ft.
9 ft.
10 ft.
11 ft.
12 ft.
12 ft.
4 ft.Joist Span
6 ft.
7 ft.
7 ft.
9 ft.
7 ft.Joist Span
8 ft.Joist Span
9 ft.Joist Span
10 ft.Joist Span
11 ft.Joist Span
12 ft.Joist Span
up to 9' 3"
up to 11' 4"
24 in.Joist Spacing
up to 8' 11"
up to 11' 4"
up to 13' 10"
16 in.Joist Spacing
up to 10' 0"
up to 13' 1"
up to 16' 0"
12 in.Joist Spacing
2 x 6*
2 x 8
2 x 10
Joist Size
Maximum Joist Spans (Hem-Fir #2 and better)40 lbs per sq. ft. live load, plus 20 lbs. per sq. ft. dead load
12 inch joist spacing is recommendedfor diagonal decking patterns.
*2x6 joists should only beused on low level decks.
12"
– 5 –
SPAN TABLESThese span tables are specifically for hem-fir pressure treated lumber (#2 and better).Hem-fir is the primary material used for outdoor deck framing in the Pacific Northwestand Alaska. It is recommended that 2x4 or 2x6 decking be used with these tables.
For a solid feeling deck, with little or no bounce, avoid using the maximum distancesallowed for in the tables. Decks over 6 feet high require joist spacing no greater than16 inches on-center for a solid feeling deck. 2x6 joists are for low level decks only.
HOW TO USE THE TABLESA 10x16 foot deck with a 2 foot cantilever has a joist span of 8 feet.The Maximum Joist Spans chart shows that either 2x6 joists with 16inch spacing or 2x8 joists with 24 inch spacing can span the 8 feet.
According to the Maximum Beam Spans chart, joist spans of 8 feetrequire at least a 4x8 beam with posts no farther apart than 6 feet.Dividing the length of the deck (16 feet) bythe 6 foot maximum beam span shows2.66 spans required. Rounding2.66 spans up to 3 spans meansa total of 4 posts are needed.
The end posts should be setin a little from the ends of thebeam. Spacing the 4 postsapart 4 feet 9 inches on-centergives just about a foot of beamoverhang on each side.
For the maximum post heightmultiply the joist span by thebeam span: 8'x4'9"=38 squarefeet. As long as the deck isnot over 12 feet high, 4x4posts can safely be used.
Top of ledger board shouldbe about 2 inches below
bottom of threshold. 1 1/2 inches are left offeach end of the ledger
for outside joists.
Marked positions for joists.
Cleared area for deck shouldslope away from house andbe covered with landscape
fabric and gravel.
Ledger Board
Ledger boards that are not at the samelevel as a rim joist can usually be securedto the framing studs of the house. Consult
your local building department for restrictions.
Decks placed just undera doorway will almost
always line up with the rimjoist of the house.
– 6 –
LEDGER BOARDThe first part of a deck to be installed is usually the ledger board—which anchorsthe deck to the house and is used as a reference for the deck framingand foundation layout. The ledger boardshould be straight with no bow and isusually the same size lumber as thejoists (2x6, 2x8, or 2x10).
The length of the ledgerboard equals the total lengthof the deck, less 11/2 incheson each end for outsidejoists. These outside joistsoverlap the ledger boardand are nailed to it.
The ledger board must be firmlysecured to the framing of the house—notjust the siding. Outdoor decks (especiallycantilevered decks) can pull away from a houseover time and possibly fail if not secured firmlyto the framing members of the house.
Ledgers placed directly under an outside doorusually lag into the solid rim joist of the house.Houses with engineered I-beam rim joistsrequire solid blocking behind the rim joist toaccept lag screws or carriage bolts. Secondfloor decks may line up with a rim joist ormay need to be lagged into theframing studs of the wall.Consult your localbuilding departmentfor restrictions.
Ledger Board being marked for layout.
Ledger Board after installation.
Outside Joistposition.
Joist position marks.Lag bolts are placed in pairs between
joists when securing to a solid rim joist.
Measure back the 11/2 inches ofjoist thickness for joist positions.
Outline the ledger location first,then determine what framing lieswithin the wall for secure placement
of the ledger board fasteners.Lag Screw
Ideal for installations where accessis only on one side.
Hex-head BoltFor use were there is access to both sides.
Allows for maximum tightening.
Carriage BoltA rounded head over a square shank
draws flush with surface for a clean look.
2 1/2" Deck ScrewPhillips or square drive deck screws
provide more holding power than nails.
16d (3 1/2") Casing NailA narrow head makes these nails ideal fordecking where appearance is important.
16d (3 1/2") Common NailGeneral purpose nail for all framing.
11/2" Joist Hanger NailFor use with hangers, brackets,
connectors, and angles.
Decks being built off of an existing doorway should have the top edge of theledger board installed about 2 inches below the lower lip of the doorway threshold.This puts the finished height of the deck (with 11/2 inch deck boards) low enoughto prevent water from being drawn into the house.
A 4-foot level or water level andchalk line are used to create a leveloutline of the ledger board location.With the outline in place the framingwithin the wall should be determinedto allow secure placement of theledger board fasteners.
JOIST LAYOUTThe joist layout can be markedon the ledger board before or afterinstallation. Care should be taken that the joistlocations do not interfere with the lag bolts used to securethe ledger board to the house. This is only a problem where a solid rim joist is notavailable and the lag bolt placement is dictated by the locations of framing studs.The entire joist layout can be shifted to avoid interference if necessary.
– 7 –
COMMONFASTENERS
Use only hot-dipped galvanizedor stainless steel fasteners.
Ledger board attached to lap siding.
Penciled outline on lap sidingshowing area to be cut out.
Extra 2 inches cutout for decking.
Extra 1 1/2 inches cutout for outside joists.
Avoid over-cutting the cornersof the cut out area by using achisel to finish the corners off.
– 8 –
The type of house siding dictates the method for attaching the ledger board. In general,lap sidings like clapboard, wood shingle, aluminum, or vinyl need to be cut away to allowthe ledger board to be secured directly to a flat surface. With all sidings the ledger installationstarts with an exact outline of the ledger board on the wall. This is the time to find any objectsthat may be in the way (like a water spigot, dryer vent). Ledger boards can be notched aroundobjects or even divided into two sections if necessary but care should be taken that all sectionsremain level and in line.
LAP SIDINGWhen installing a ledger board to a house with lap siding add anextra 11/2 inches on each end of the ledger outline for the outsidejoists and an extra 2 inches on top for the decking. This entireoutline will need to be cut away with a circular saw down to thedepth of the siding only, leaving the sheathing beneath intact.
Ledger board attached to flat siding.
Ledger board attached to concrete.
Galvanized flashing is installedbehind the siding above the
ledger position to deflect waterover the ledger board.
Caulking or galvanized flashing shouldbe installed below the ledger board.
– 9 –
Ledger installations that require the house siding tobe cut away will require some type of flashing orcaulking to be installed. This is necessary toprevent water from getting behind the ledgerboard and siding.
Galvanized flashingshould be installedabove the ledgerwith a vertical sectionbehind the siding and a horizontalsection over the ledger to deflect water.Flashing or caulking needs to be installedbelow the ledger to prevent water fromseeping behind and below. Any predrilledholes in the wall should also be caulked.
FLAT SIDINGLedgers can be attached to flat siding with hot-dipped galvanized washer spacersto stand the ledger away from the house about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. This space preventswater or debris from becoming trapped between the deck and the house.
MASONRY OR CONCRETE WALLSPressure-treated wood ledger boards can be bolted directly to a masonry orconcrete wall provided that masonry anchors are set in the wall to receivethe lag screws. Predrilled pilot holes in the ledger board are used to markthe anchor locations on the wall.
ATTACHING THE LEDGER BOARDThe ledger board is installed by first tacking and bracing it into position on thewall. Pilot holes are then predrilled (to only the width of the board) with a 3/8 inchdrill bit. All holes must be at least 1 inch in from the edges of the board. A ratchetwrench is used to attach the ledger board to the house with 3/8x4 inch lag screwsand two stacked washers. Caulking is required to areas where the ledger boardor flashing makes direct contact with the wall.
Use mason’s linewhich will not stretch
like regular string.
2x4 temporary bracesdouble as 3-4-5 triangle
components.
A plumb bob is used totransfer the location marks
down to the ground.
The post locationsare marked on the
string line.
Outside Joist
Temporary Stake
– 10 –
FOUNDATION LAYOUTOnce the ledger board is installed the layout for the deck foundation can be made.String lines, made from mason’s line, are used to create reference points tomeasure from. These string lines can be attached to temporary batter boardsor to pre-installed outside joists on simple decks.
FOUNDATION LAYOUT USING OUTSIDE JOISTSThis layout technique works best for low-level simple decks.
1. The outside end joists are cut to length and attached to the ends of the ledgerboard with three 16d nails. (The outside joist length is the deck width minus the11/2 inches of the header joist.)
2. The far ends of the joists are propped up with sturdy temporary stakes and leveled.
3. The outside joists are squared to the house using the 3-4-5 triangle methodby first attaching temporary 2x4 cross braces to the top of theledger 3 feet in from each outside joist.
4. The cross braces are then nailed tothe joists 4 feet out from the ledgerwhen the diagonal measurementis exactly 5 feet.
5. A string line is run betweenthe joists, parallel to the house, at the distance where thecenter of the beam will be.
6. The line is marked at thecenter point for each postand plumbed to the ground.
7. The string line is removedfrom one side while the foundationholes are dug and the concrete poured.
8. The string line is then replaced to allow correct placementof the post bases by plumbing down from the marks once again.
3-4-5 TRIANGLE
The 3-4-5 triangle is a quick wayto square corners during deckconstruction. When one side ofa right triangle is 3 units longand another side is 4 units long,the remaining diagonal side isexactly 5 units long. With thesemeasurements in place, thejunction of the 3 unit side andthe 4 unit side is a 90° angle.
Adjust this side until the4 and 5 foot marks meet.
4'
3'
5'
Batter boards can be easilymade from inexpensive precutstakes sold in bundles at most
building supply centers.
90°
EASY BATTER BOARDS
Running individual lines straight outfrom the ledger to the post locations.
Running lines to the sides with a perpendicularline at the center of the beam location.
Place batter boards outaway from work area.
Mark post locationson the string line.
Use a plumb bob totransfer the location marks
down to the ground.
– 11 –
FOUNDATION LAYOUT USING BATTER BOARDSThere are many ways to position batter boards and string lines to layout thefoundation of a deck. Most are based on squaring a string line to the ledgerwith a 3-4-5 triangle, measuring out a given level distance to the post locations,then plumbing down to ground. This gives an exact spot to place pier blocks ordig foundation holes. Shown here are two popular methods.
Once the ground is marked, stringlines that are in the way are usuallyremoved from one side whilefoundation holes are dug andconcrete poured. Lines arethen replaced to allowcorrect placement ofthe post bases byplumbing down fromthe post locationmarks once again.
WHY NOT USE STAKES?Batter boards, unlike single stakes,allow string lines to be adjusted sideto side for alignment and squaring.
Concrete Footing
Frost Line
Ground Line
Poured ConcretePier in Form Tube
Post Base
Post
BackfilledDirt and Gravel
Compacted Gravel
Post hole diggers areused to dig a straighthole just wider than
the form tube.
A post base connector(or j-bolt, or PVC pipe sleeve)is inserted and plumbed into
the wet concrete after pouring.
The hole is expandedat the bottom to createa bell shaped footing.
PIER
FOOTING
Poured Concrete Pier And Footing
Precast Pier Blocks
Undisturbed Soil
– 12 –
FOOTINGS AND PIERSDecks with posts less than 3 feet high and in areas not prone to frost heaves canuse precast pier blocks placed directly on undisturbed soil or compacted gravel.
When designing a deck to use pier blocks it is common to increase the numberof posts required to spread the weight load of the deck out to more blocks.While this reduces the chance of settling, there is no guarantee that overtime some movement or settlement may not occur. Pier blocks also offerno support against uplift.
POURED CONCRETE FOOTINGSPoured concrete footings and piers offer the best guarantee againstsettling and are often required by code. The diameter and depth ofthe piers and footings is determined by the weight and height of thedeck, soil composition, and local code.
Footings must always be placed below the localfrost line (the maximum depth at which the groundwill freeze) to prevent frost heaves each winter.When possible, footings should be constructedon undisturbed soil or rock.
Footings are usually 12 to 14 inches wideand between 6 to 8 inches deep dependingupon the height of the pier and the weightof the deck being supported.
Concrete piers that support 4x4 posts areusually 8 inches in diameter and are quiteoften poured inside of fiberboard form tubeswhich are permanently left in the ground.These form tubes can be cut with a handsawto the exact height needed (usually leavingabout 2 inches showing above grade).
– 13 –
SINGLE-POUR PIER AND FOOTINGFootings and piers can be poured in one step by suspending the tube off ofthe bottom of the hole allowing the concrete to spread out creating the footing.The idea is to dig a hole just wider than the form tube and then widen thebottom 6 to 8 inches below the frost line into a bell shaped cavity.
1. Use a clamshell post-hole digger to create a hole just wider than the form tubeall the way down to the frost line. Your local building department can tell youthe depth of the frost line in your area.
2. Excavate the next 8 to 12 inches below the frost line into a bell shaped cavityat least 1 foot in diameter.
3. Add 2 to 4 inches of compacted gravel to the bottom of the hole for drainage,more in wet areas. Deeper holes or larger footings may also require rebar toreinforce the concrete, check with your local building department.
4. Cut the form tube with a handsaw to the length of the pier only, leaving about2 inches above ground. The tube must be suspended above the footing areaduring the pour and can be held in place by hand or by 2x4s nailed to thetop edges.
5. With the tube suspended, the pour for each hole should be completed in onestep. Pre-mixed concrete in 60lb or 80lb bags is the best solution for all but thelargest deck foundation jobs. Using a wheel barrow, just enough concrete canbe prepared for the job at hand without attempting all pours at once.
6. Work the concrete as it is being poured to remove any air pockets and take careto keep the form tube plumb. Level the concrete out at the top of the tube orcreate a slight mound to slope away from the center of the pier.
7. Reattach string lines to find the center of post positions again with a plumb bob.
8. Into the still wet concrete, depending on the post base system being used, insertand plumb a j-bolt, or six inches of 3/4" (inside diameter) PVC pipe, or a one-pieceelevated post base. The concrete can also be left to cure completely and thendrilled for a masonry anchor bolt and standoff post base system.
9. After the concrete has cured 24 hours or so, the top of the form tube (where itwill show above ground) can be cut away from the pier with a utility knife.
POST BASECONNECTORS
Deck posts are anchored to footingsand piers with post base connectors.
These keep the posts out of directcontact with the ground preventing
future maintenance problems.
Elevated post base.
Standoff post baseand j-bolt combination.
Adjustable elevated post basein 3/4" PVC pipe sleeve.
(Requires epoxy for uplift support.)
Transferred height fromtop of Ledger.
1/16 inch down for every1 foot out from ledger.
Cut here at top of beamfor Double-Beams.
Cut here at bottom of beamfor Solid or Built-up Beams.
Brush on an end-cutsolution to all cut ends
and drilled holes.
Begin with over-longposts then cut downto the correct height.
Transfer ledger height outto posts with a straight 2x4
and 4-foot level.
– 14 –
POSTSIncised pressure-treated posts are recommended for most deck projects. Postends should be checked for square and trimmed if necessary. Care should betaken to coat cut ends and drilled holes with an end-cut solution.
The heights of individual posts willvary with the slope of the ground.To find the correct post heightsthe ledger height is transferredout to each uncut post.A straight 2x4 with a 4-foot level is a commonmethod of doing this.
Once the posts aremarked level with thetop of the ledger, anadditional 1/16 inch is measureddown for every 1 foot of distance betweenthe ledger and the posts. This additional 1/16 inchfor every 1 foot slopes the deck slightly away from thehouse for drainage and is not noticeable on the finished deck.
The height of the joists, which are level with the top of the ledger,is measured down and marked to find the top of the beam.
This is the finished height for posts on decks where a double-beamis used that attaches to the sides of the posts. Beams that sit on topof the posts need the additional height of the beam to be measureddown and marked. Final marks should be double-checked for levelacross the spans between the posts.
The posts are cut at the final marks for the type of beam that isused. The posts are then plumbed, braced for support if needed,and secured to the post anchors.
Solid BeamBuilt-up Beam
Double-Beam
Install beams and joistscrown side up.
Single piece post cap.
Two piece post cap.
1/2" pressure-treated plywood gusset.
Perimeter posts over 5 feet highneed to be braced for stability.
Effective bracing forms a triangle.
Pressure-treated4x4 bracing secured
with 6" lag bolts.
POST-TO-BEAMCONNECTORS
POST-TO-BEAMBRACING
– 15 –
BEAMSThe three most common pressure-treated wood beams used in residential deckconstruction are: solid, built-up, and double-beam. Solid and built-up beams siton top of the posts while double-beams are bolted to the sides of posts.
Solid beams made from 4x lumber allow larger spans and require the least amountof work. Built-up and double beams are considered 3x lumber on the span tables.
Built-up beams are made from two boards of 2x pressure-treated lumber whichare nailed together with 1/2 inch pressure-treated plywood spacers placed every24 inches within the beam. The spacers are pointed at the top to shed water. Thetwo boards plus the 1/2 inch spacers create a beam that is the full 31/2 inch widthof post-to-beam connectors for 4x4 posts.
Double-Beams are made from two boards of 2x pressure-treated lumber whichare attached to opposite sides of the posts. The boards are usually bolted throughthe posts with two 3/8x8 inch hex head bolts with washers on both sides. The boltholes should be offset about 11/2 inches and predrilled with a 3/8 inch drill bit.Since the posts continue up within the beam, double-beams are ideal for verylow decks where there is little height for posts.
All beam types are cut to the finishlength of the deck (ledger widthplus 3 inches) and attached tothe posts crown side up.
Use the set tab first tolock the joist hanger into
place before nailing.
Use a scrap piece of joistto position the joist hanger
at the correct height.
Nail only one sideof joist hanger untiljoist installation.
Ledger Board
– 16 –
JOISTSJoists are usually made from 2x6, 2x8, or 2x10 incised pressure-treated lumber.Non-incised pressure-treated lumber is sometimes used for outside and headerjoists that will remain exposed after deck construction.
Joist hangers are attached to the ledger board with 11/2 inchhot-dipped galvanized joist hanger nails driven at slight angles.A scrap piece of joist lumber is used to position the joist hangersat the correct height aligning the top of the scrap piece to the topof the ledger board. Only one side of each joist hanger is attacheduntil the joist is installed.
When all of the joist hangers are in place the outside joists arecut to length and attached to the ends of the ledger board(crown side up) with three hot-dipped galvanized 16d nails.The outside joist length is the deck width minus the 11/2inches of the header joist.
With the outside joists attached to the ledger (but not yetto the beam) the header joist is installed. The header joistis cut to the total length of the deck thenattached to the outside joists (crownside up) with three hot-dippedgalvanized 16d nails.
The newly created deckframe can now besquared to the houseand then lightlynailed to the beam.To square the frame,measure the diagonalsfrom opposite corners ofthe frame. Then adjust theframe until they are equal.
Measure these diagonals andadjust until they are exactly thesame to square the deck frame.
Header Joist
Outside Joists
Predrill 1/16" pilot holes.Attach with hot-dippedgalvanized 16d nails.
Lightly toenail theframe to the beam
after squaring.
Lightly toenail the outside joists tothe beam, then secure firmly after allthe joists are installed and the entiredeck frame is rechecked for square.
The center-most joist shouldbe installed first to set theheader joist with no bow.
Angle brackets areinstalled to strengthen
corner joints.
Seismic ties secure thejoists to the beam.
ANGLE BRACKETSStrengthen inside corners with
galvanized angle brackets.
SEISMIC TIESSeismic ties secure the joists to the
beam. Install ties after the deck framehas been rechecked for square.
JOIST HANGERSNail only one side of joist hangers
until joist installation.
– 17 –
Once the frame is square, the outside joists can be toenailedlightly to the beam with 10d nails. Galvanized angle bracketsshould be installed at this time to the inside corners of theframe to add stability.
The joist layout from the ledger board is transferred to eitherthe beam or the header joist for correct alignment of thejoists as they are installed. Joists are cut to length andinstalled crown side up. The joist length is the deckwidth minus 3 inches for the ledger and header joist.
JOIST INSTALLATIONThe center-most joist should be installed first to insure that the header joist doesnot bow in or out. Joists can be nailed directly through the header joist with three16d nails or joist hangers can be used at the header joist to avoid having nailheads on the exposed front of the header.When nailing the joistthrough the header,use an angle squareon the inside ofthe header toavoid securingthe joist withany kindof twist.
Seismic ties(also known ashurricane ties) are used toattach each joist to the beam afterall the joists are installed and the deck frame is rechecked for square.The toenailed outside joists are nailed hard at this time to the beam.
Blocking should be installed between joists on spans greater than 8 feet to stiffenthe deck and prevent the joists from twisting. Any blocking that is required to bracestair stringers should also be installed at this time before the decking is put down.
Board ends at butt joints shouldbe cut back about 5° to allow
a tight fit at the surface.
An alternative to full doublejoists under decking joints is a
pressure-treated 2x4 nailerattached to a single joist.
Decking Board
Joist
Decking boards should beinstalled heart-side down.
Use over-long deck boards.Lay out all of the deck boardson the deck frame and then
rearrange them to find the bestoverall look before installation.
Joints where deck boardsmeet should be staggered
for a stronger and moreattractive deck.
Double joists provide a largernailing surface for board joints.
– 18 –
DECKINGPressure-treated deck boards have slightly rounded edges and are usuallymade from 2x4 or 2x6 lumber. Boards wider than 2x6 are not recommendedas they will begin to cup with time. All decking boards should be installedwith the heart-side facing down.
Deck boards are best installed overlong and trimmed as a group afterinstallation. It’s a good idea to lay out all of the deck boards on the deckframe first and then rearrange them to find the best overall look. Boards shouldbe adjusted to avoid placing knots at cut ends or directly over joists where theycould interfere with nailing. Boards that are bowed can be straightened duringinstallation and should be interspersed with straight boards. Deck boardswith natural defects can be placed in less visible areas.
Full length deck boards should be used wheneverpossible. Joints where two decking boards meetare a potential trouble area that can well beavoided by using full length decking boards.
When joints are necessary they shouldbe staggered for a stronger and moreattractive deck. It’s a common practiceto double the joists under board jointsbut care should be taken that the twojoists are exactly even on top to maintaina level joint between the deck boards.
Drill pilot holes when using screws.Drive screw heads just below surface.
Use a nail set to finish driving nailsslightly below the surface.
Drive nails at slight angles to eachother for better holding power.
Predrill board ends to preventsplitting the wood while nailing.
Deck clips secure deck boardsfrom beneath, leaving the deck
surface clear of fasteners.
– 19 –
FASTENING DECK BOARDS WITH NAILSNails are the least expensive type of fastener and the quickest way to securedeck boards. The most common nail for 2x pressure-treated decking is a31/2 inch 16d casing nail.
• Use only hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails.
• Spiral or ring shank nails can be used to provide additional holding power.
• Board ends should be predrilled to avoid splitting while nailing.
• The sharp edges of the nail point should be turned to cut across the grain ofthe wood or the point can be blunted with a hammer.
• Nails should be driven at slight angles to each other to hold better.
• Nail heads should be driven slightly below the surface of the deck board.
Pneumatic (air) nailers are a popular time saving tool for securing deck boards.However, the nails used with pneumatic nailers tend to be less durable andmore expensive than standard hot-dipped galvanized nails.
FASTENING DECK BOARDS WITH SCREWSScrews have a greater holding power than nails but are more expensive and takea great deal longer to install. Screws are recommended over nails in areas ofprolonged freezing temperatures. It’s a good idea to predrill all holes when usingscrews (not just the board ends). Care must be taken not to drive screw heads toofar below the surface of the deck board creating a hole in which water will collect.Depth guides are available for many drills which set the maximum depth a screwcan be driven. The most common screw for 2x pressure-treated decking is a21/2 inch multi-coated deck screw with a bugle head.
FASTENING DECK BOARDS WITH CLIPSDeck clips are unseen from the top of the deck boards andsecure each deck board to the joists before the next boardis added. They are more expensive than nails or screws andtake quite a bit longer to install but they allow for a deck withno fasteners to mar the surface. Since deck clips automaticallyspace the deck boards they should not be used with wet lumber as unacceptablegaps between the boards may occur when the lumber finally dries and shrinks.
Snap a chalk line to use as a guide that isindependent of the house siding when laying
deck boards starting from the house.
When laying deck boards startingat the front edge align the first
board with the header joist.
– 20 –
DECKING INSTALLATIONDecking can either be installed starting at the house or at the front of the deck.The first board installed should be straight with no bow and aligned square withthe deck perpendicular to the joists. When installing boards by beginning at thehouse, it’s a good idea to snap a chalk line to use as a guide forthe first board. There should be about a 1/4 inch gap betweenthe house and the nearest board.
Spacing between the deck boardsshould be kept at a minimum duringinstallation. This allows for shrinkageas the boards season. It is recommendedthat boards lightly touch as they are beinginstalled. The ideal board spacing for afully seasoned deck is about 1/8 inch.
Each board is installed with twofasteners (nails or screws) at each joist.As courses of 5 or 6 boards are installed,the measurement from the last boardinstalled to the far end of the deckshould be checked in order to keep thedecking straight and square with the deck.
Every load of decking lumber (no matter what kind) will have someboards that cup, twist, or bow. Most boards can be straightened as theyare installed. For bowed boards the least bowed end of the board is fastenedfirst and the remaining length is forced over and fastened one joist at a time. If the curveof the bowed board is too great to force over by hand a pry bar or other lever can be used.Boards that were bowed before installation are seldom noticeable on the finished deck.
Cupped or twisted boards will usually level out with moderate pressure while they are being installed.Those boards that will not flatten out should probably not be used for decking. Unlike a bowed boardthat has been straightened, a severely cupped board will stand out on a finished deck and will mostlikely get worse with time. These boards can be cut to shorter lengths and used on other parts of thedeck where the cupping or twisting will not be an issue.
A 2x4 can take theplace of a partial 2x6.
A 2x6 can take the placeof one and a half 2x4s.
DECKING EDGE OPTIONS
Decking flush with the outside joists.
Decking overhangs the outside joists.
Full height 1x facia board enclosure.Facia boards are typically cut to a
45° miter at the corners.
1x facia board under decking overhang.
Combination 2x4 and 1x facia boards.
FrontViews
CrossSections
As courses of 5 or 6 boards are installed,the measurement to the far end of the deck
should be checked in order to keep thedecking straight and square with the deck.
The first board closest tothe house can be precut
before installation.
Use a circular saw to trim board endsas a group after installation.
– 21 –
Deck boards should be adjusted slightly over the course of the installationto aim for a full board at the far end of the deck. If it looks as thoughhalf a board width will be neededfor the last board, consider usinganother width for that last boardrather than cutting (ripping) oneto the desired width.
Once all of thedecking boards havebeen installed the edgescan be trimmed. The deck boards can be cut flushwith the outside joists or allowed to overhang byas much as one inch. A straight edge or snappedchalk line can be used as a guide for cutting thedeck boards as a group with a circular saw.The saw blade should be set to cut 1/8 inchdeeper than the thickness of the deck boards.
Areas where the circular saw cannot reach, likethe board closest to the house, can be finishedwith a hand saw or cut to size before installation.
Perpendicular decking is installedat a right angle to the house.
Header joists can bejoined with a two footlength of joist backing.
Overlappingjoists must beover a beam.
Joists can be attachedwith joist hangers or nailedthrough the outside joists.
Perpendicular decking isideal for long and narrow
porch style decks.
– 22 –
PERPENDICULAR DECKINGDecking which runs perpendicular to ahouse requires the framing substructureof the deck to be built at a 90° angle toconventional deck framing. The joistsrun parallel to the house and morethan one beam is required to supportthe joists. Decks built this way mustfollow the same joist, beam, and postspecifications called for in thespan tables.
One end of each beam could besuspended on the house with a beamhanger (similar to a joist hanger) but thisis seldom a good idea. Unlike a ledger boardwhich spreads the weight of the deck along itsentire length, beam hangers place the weightof the deck in only a few concentrated areas.A more effective approach is support postsnear the house creating a freestanding deckthat, for the most part, is independent ofthe house. The beams, like joists on aconventional deck, should slope away1/16 inch for every 1 foot out fromthe house.
Shorter lengths of joists are oftenused for perpendicular deck framing.This requires the joists to overlap byabout one foot over a beam. The twojoists should be joined together at theoverlap with 10d nails. Care should betaken that the deck framing stays levelover the beam.
DECKING OPTIONS
Picture framing can be installed alongthe edges of all decking patterns.
Additional blocking is usually required.
Chevrons are an ideal pattern whenonly short decking boards are available.
12 inch joist spacing and someadditional blocking is required.
Diagonal decking requires 12 inchjoist spacing. Decking installationis started from the middle of thedeck with the longest boards.
A small piece of 1/4 or 1/2 inchplywood makes a handy spacerwhen butting perpendicular deckboards against the house siding.
Joists installed between beamsrequire joist hangers for support.
The header joist is nailedto the ends of the beams
with 16d nails.
– 23 –
JOISTS INSTALLED BETWEEN BEAMSJoists can be installed between the beams to avoid havingoverlaps or to accommodate a very low deck clearance.Joist hangers are required to securely fasten thejoists to the beams. Care should betaken to insure that the tops ofthe beams and joists remainat the exact same height toavoid uneven deck boards.
Decks built with the joistsbetween the beams tendto require greater joistspans than the morecommon cantilevereddecks. However, these decks mustfollow the same joist, beam, and postspecifications called for in the span tables.
The ledger board on a deck with perpendicular decking does not carrythe weight of the deck as in a conventional deck frame. As such it doesnot need to be secured as firmly to the house but should still be attachedto the house framing and not just the siding. Pressure-treatedplywood spacers are quite often used to hold the ledgerboard 1/2 to 3/4 inches out from the house siding.
Perpendicular decking should not butt directly against thehouse siding. A space of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch between thesiding and deck boards is ideal. A piece of 1/4 or 1/2 inchplywood makes a good temporary spacer to place againstthe house siding while installing the decking to create an evengap along the board ends. The deck boards should be trimmedsquare on the end going against the house and coated withend-cut solution if pressure-treated. Pilot holes at board endsshould be drilled to prevent splitting while fastening.
Cleated Stringer Stairs
Notched Stringer Stairs
Platform Steps
– 24 –
STAIRSThe framing components of outdoor stairs should be built exclusively with incisedpressure-treated wood. Few parts of a deck receive the constant wear and tear ofstairs—making the durability of the stair components a critical issue. Stair treadsare usually made from the same lumber as the decking boards. It’s a good ideato round off the leading edge of all stair treads to reduce wearand prevent splintering over time.
PLATFORM STEPSFor total rises of less than 2 feet it is common to buildplatform (or box) steps. These steps are popular ascontinuous wraparound stairs for low level decks or asplatform risers toward an entry door.
The ideal height of an individual step is 6 to 7 inches.The platforms illustrated here are made from 2x6 lumberframes topped with 2x6 deck boards creating a 7 inchstep. Had these platforms been built on the bare joists (insteadof on top of the decking) the rise would only have been 51/2inches. Deck boards below a platform can run the entire lengthof the platform or end at the first joist.
STAIR STRINGERSMost stairs leading up to a deck require stair stringers (also knownas stair jacks). Stair stringers are either cleated or notched. Cleatedstringers are usually made from 2x10 or 2x12 pressure-treatedlumber. Cleated stringers with more than five steps and allnotched stringers require 2x12s. Cleats support the stairtreads on the stringer and can be made from galvanizedmetal staircase angles or pressure-treated 2x4s.
Stairs for outdoor decks should be at least 36 inches wide.Treads made from 2x lumber should not span 36 incheswithout some additional support such as a middle stringer.
Measure deckheight from here.
Straight 2x44-Foot Level
Trim here for decking thatoverhangs the edge joist.
Prepare a concrete or gravel landing area beforestringer layout and adjust the elevation to aim for
easily divided stair riser amounts.
Start with riseat board end.
FramingSquare
Extend bottom rise andrun lines to mark cuts.
Extend top riseline to mark cut.
RiseRun
Two 2x6s for 11 inch treads.Comfortable rise: about 7 inches.
One 2x6, two 2x4s for 121/2 inch treads.Comfortable rise: about 61/2 inches.
Two 2x6s, one 2x4 for 141/2 inch treads.Comfortable rise: about 6 inches.
Three 2x6s for 161/2 inch treads.Comfortable rise: about 51/2 inches.
STAIR TREAD PATTERNS
– 25 –
CLEATED STRINGER LAYOUT1. To layout cleated stringers first determine
the number of steps needed by dividingthe deck height by the preferred rise ofeach step (usually 6 to 7 inches). Usea straight 2x4 and a 4-foot level tomeasure the height of the deck atthe stair landing area.
2. Round this number off to an evennumber of steps.
3. Divide the deck height bythe number of steps to getthe stair rise.
4. Choose a length for the tread run.
5. Starting with a rise measurementat board end, use aframing square tomark the rise andrun for the numberof steps needed.
6. Cut off the stringer boardat the bottom rise and thentrim back along the run.
7. Trim at the top rise and coatall cuts with end-cut solution.
8. Use the narrow arm of the framingsquare (which is 11/2 inches wide) tomark the cleat locations 11/2 inchesbelow the run lines.
9. Install metal cleats with 11/4 inch lag screws.Wood cleats can be secured with severalhot-dipped galvanized 8d nails or21/2 inch deck screws.
Notched stringer stairswith deck as top step.
Notched stringer stairswith top step at deck level.
Measure deckheight from here.
Straight 2x44-Foot Level
Start with riseat board end.
Framing Square
Extend bottomrise to mark cut.
Extend top riseline to mark cut.Mark bottom cut 11/2 inches
above the bottom run line.
Use the first stringer cut as a templateto mark the remaining stringers.
Prepare a concrete or gravellanding area before stringer
layout and adjust theelevation to aim for easily
divided stair riser amounts.
– 26 –
The most conventional style of outdoor deck stairs have notched(or cutout) stringers made from 2x12 pressure-treated lumber.The top step of notched stringer stairs can be level with thedecking or one step down. Stringers that start one stepdown from the decking usually require additional backingsupport below the edge joist.
NOTCHED STRINGER LAYOUT1. To layout notched stringers first determine
the number of steps needed by dividing thedeck height by the preferred rise of each step(usually 6 to 7 inches). Use a straight 2x4 and a4-foot level to measure the height of the deck at thestair landing area.
2. Round this number off to an even number of steps.
3. Divide the deck height by the number of steps to getthe stair rise.
4. Choose a length for the tread run.
5. Starting with a rise measurementat board end, use a framingsquare to mark the rise and runfor the number of steps needed.Add an additional tread run forstairs that start at deck level.
6. Cut off the stringer board atthe bottom rise.
7. Trim the bottom 11/2 inches abovethe bottom run line.
8. Cut off board at the top rise and run.
9. Cut out the notches. Use a circular sawbut take care not to over-cut the insidecorners by finishing the cuts with a handsaw. Coat all cut areas with end-cut solution.
Stair stringers should be firmlyanchored to the landing area.
Longer notched stringers requirereinforcement such as double stringers,
2x4 stiffeners, or intermediate posts.Consult your local building department.
Backing support for a nailer installed below an edge joistmust be braced for lateral as well as downward forces.
2x6 nailer.
2x8 brace securedto main joists or
blocking.2x6 nailer. 2x6 braced
against beam.
Riser kick panels madefrom 1x fence boards can
create a more finishedlook to stairs.
Treads can overhangedges by as much as
one inch.
Blocking should be installed ifthe stringers run perpendicular
to the main joists.
Blocking is offset fromback of stringers.
Install angle brackets onthe inside corners wherethey will be out of view.
For decking that overhangs theedge joist add the width of theoverhang to the top run length.
Secure stringers from behindthe edge joist with 16d nails
or 1/4x31/2 inch lag bolts.
– 27 –
INSTALLATION OF STAIRSStringers that rest fully against an edge joistcan be toenailed into position with 10d nailsand then secured from behind the edgejoist with 16d nails or 1/4x31/2 inch lagscrews. Angle brackets can be installedon the inside corners for added strength.Blocking should be installed behindthe edge joist if the stringers runperpendicular to the main joists.
When stringers only rest partiallyagainst an edge joist it iscommon to attach a 2x6 or2x8 nailer below the edgejoist for added support.The nailer is cut to the samewidth as the stairs and is bracedfor lateral as well as downward forces.
Stair treads are installed the same as deckboards taking care to predrill board ends.The leading edge of all stair treads shouldbe rounded off to reduce wear and preventsplintering over time. Treads can overhangedges by as much as one inch.
Railing Cap
Rail
Balusters
Railing Post
36"minimum height.
4" maximum spacingbetween components.
4x4 railing postsnotched to overhang
deck 11/2 inches.
4x4 railing postscorner-notched to
overhang deck11/2 inches. A pair of 4x4 posts set back from
the corner are a stronger alternativeto a single corner-notched post.
Single corner-notched 4x4railing post secured with twopairs of 3/8 inch lag screws.
Railing corner post variations.(shown without railing caps)
– 28 –
RAILINGSMost local codes require railings on decks that have a finished height above theground of 30 inches or more. The height of the railing cap needs to be at aminimum 36 inches above the decking. Openings between the railingcomponents should be no larger than 4 inches.
Railings are usually made from the same type of lumber as the deckboards. It’s a good idea to set aside the lumber for the railingswhen the wood for the deck first arrives and is sorted and stacked.This is especially true for railing caps which should be made fromthe choicest boards.
RAILING POSTSRailing posts are commonly made from 4x4 pressure-treated lumberthat is notched on the bottom to overhang the deck 11/2 inches.Care should be taken to avoid over-cutting the inside corners whilenotching posts. When using a circular saw to create the notches,it is best to finish off the inside corners with a chisel.
Corner posts need to be corner-notched and can be cut witha circular saw or purchased precut in pressure-treated wood.Two posts that are set back from the corner are a strongeralternative to a single corner-notched post. It iscommon to bevel the bottoms of posts andbalusters for a softer look.
Offset bolt holes.Secure top bolt and
recheck post for plumbbefore drilling bottom hole.
Notch overhangingdeck boards atpost locations.
Install a piece of blockingbehind and just to theside of post locations.
Edge JoistInner Joist
Single corner posts require twopairs of lag screws and washers.The pairs must be offset so asnot to interfere with each other.
– 29 –
RAILING POST INSTALLATIONPosts should not be installed immediately if they have a high moisture content.Heavily saturated posts tend to dry unevenly after installation often causing cracksand splits to appear in the wood. It is best to allow posts to air dry horizontally inan area with good air flow for at least 2–3 weeks with periodic turning.
Railings on large decks and those with openings for stairs will need to have postsinstalled every 4 to 6 feet to support a sturdy railing. Smaller balcony style deckswithout stair openings can be built with only full length balusters and no posts.
1. Layout the railing posts with an equal spacing of about 5 feet.
2. Install a piece of support blocking behind the edge joistand slightly to the side of each post location.This is only necessary where the inner joistsrun parallel to the outside edge joist.
3. Decking which overhangs the edge joistswill need to be notched flush with the edgejoist at all post locations. A jig saw worksbest for cutting this notch in place onthe installed decking.
4. Plumb the posts into position with a4-foot level and then drill only the tophole. A 3/8 inch auger or spade bitshould be used to drill completelythrough the post and edge joist at thesame time with the post in position.
5. Insert a 3/8 inch carriage bolt through the top holeand hand tighten a single nut and washer onto the bolt.
6. Recheck the post for plumb before drilling the bottomhole and securing with a carriage bolt, washer, and nut.The bolt holes should be slightly offset to maximize holdingpower and minimize the chance of splitting.
7. Tighten bolts only until the head of the carriage bolt isdrawn flush with the side surface of the post.
RAILING VARIATIONS
– 30 –
BALUSTER LAYOUTThe most common balusters are square 2x2s with an actual dimension of11/2 x11/2 inches. The maximum space between balusters is 4 inches.
1. Measure the distance between the railing posts then add 11/2 inches.
2. Divide that number by 51/2 inches (11/2 inch baluster plus 4 inch space).
3. Round this number up to the nearest whole number.
4. Divide the distance between posts (plus the 11/2 inches) by the whole number.
5. This measurement marks the right side of each baluster when measured fromthe left. (Subtract 11/2 inches from this number to create a spacing jig.)
BALUSTER INSTALLATIONBalusters are best cut on a power miter saw or radial arm sawwhere a jig can be set up to assure accurate consistent cuts.The cut balusters can be lined up side-by-side andmarked for predrilling as a group. A snapped chalkline or straight edge and pencil can be used.When predrilling, offset and angle the nailholes in toward the center of the baluster.
Two 8d casing nails should be used ateach end of a 2x2 baluster. Having twonails at each end prevents the railing unitfrom skewing as it would if pivoting onsingle nails.
Railing designs which incorporate a lowerrail may be built as sectional laddershorizontally on a flat surface and theninstalled between the posts. Railing sections with a lower rail may be
built as sectional ladders and then installedbetween the posts as a single unit.
Baluster Layout Example53" between railing posts
1. 53" + 1.5" = 54.5"
2. 54.5" ÷ 5.5" = 9.9"
3. 9.9" rounds up to 10"
4. 54.5" ÷ 10" = 5.45"
5. Measure over 5.45"
Two 8d nails at each balusterwill prevent the balusters
twisting on this style of railing.
Top rails will be coveredwith the railing cap.
A plywood spacing jigmakes quick work of
installing balusters withperfect spacing.
STAIR RAILING VARIATIONS
34–38 inchesmeasured fromfront of treads.
Avoid difficult railing cap angletransitions by securing the stair railing
cap to the side of the top post.
Spacing betweenbalusters should not be
larger than 4 inches.
Stair railing posts can be installed flush tothe outside of the stair stringers or notched
to overhang the stair treads 11/2 inches.
– 31 –
RAILING CAPSMost railing caps are made from 2x4 or 2x6 lumber. Railing caps wider than a2x6 tend to cup with time due to weathering. The lumber used for the railingcaps should be straight and have a low moisture content at the time of installation.
Railing caps are usually secured to the posts or top rails with 10d casing nails orfinish head screws. The fasteners can be set in pairs to help prevent the railingcap from rocking loose with time. Mitered corners on railing caps should bejoined with finish nails and cut to fit easily together without force.
STAIR RAILINGSStair railings are usually required on stairs of three or more steps. The ideal heightfor a stair railing or “handrail” is between 34 and 38 inches as measured from thefront of each step.
Stair railing posts can be notched to overhang thestairs but are quite often installed flush to preventthe top post from being “double-notched.”
Balusters on stair railings can be spaced thesame as those on the deck railings orinstalled to align with each stair rise.The spaces between balusters canbe no more than 4 inches.
Stair railing caps are best madefrom 2x4 lumber or a verticallyplaced 2x6 to allow for a safe andcomfortable hand grip. An alternativeis to install a separate round or ovalhandrail next to the stair railing cap.
It is usually best to avoid the often difficultand awkward transition between the angledstair railing cap and the level deck railing capby securing the stair railing cap directly to theside of the top railing post.
– 32 –
FINISHINGA high quality wood sealer or water repellent should be applied immediatelyupon completing a deck, provided the wood is dry. Water repellents fightmoisture from rain, snow, and ice. The old adage that a deck should be leftto “season” for three months or so before sealing has proven to be unwise.The Forest Product Laboratory of the USDA has found that not coatinga deck immediately after construction reduces the average life of thewood by 20%.
It’s the weathering cycle of wood repeatedly becoming wet thendrying out again which accelerates the wood’s natural tendencyto check, crack, split, cup, and warp. Since these are naturalcharacteristics, no warranty can be given to ensure thatthey do not occur to an outdoor project. However,a high quality water repellent significantly reducesthe damage caused by the weathering cycle.
Water repellents are most effectively appliedwith a brush in a single coat. Spray systems arehandy for large decks and underside areas. Paintrollers tend to apply too much water repellentleading to a sticky surface film that refuses todry and can ultimately crack or peel.
MAINTENANCEDeck surfaces should be kept clean and free ofdebris. Dirt, gravel, and sand must be regularly sweptoff the deck as they can quickly wear down the waterrepellent (especially where the deck receives heavy foot traffic).
When rain water stops beading up on the deck it’s time to re-coat the deck withwater repellent—about every 1 to 2 years depending on the deck’s environment and usage.
Badly weathered decks may need a brightener/restorer (sodium percarbonate) applied beforeresealing to remove mold, mildew, and algae as well as dirt. Household bleach is not recommended.
Splitting
Cupping
Warping
Checking
All wood exposed to the outdoors has a natural tendencyto check, split, cup, or warp. By applying a high quality waterrepellent every 1 to 2 years, the likelihood of these commoneffects (caused by extremes in weather) is greatly reduced.
Safety Items:Dust MaskSafety GlassesWaterproof Work Gloves
Hand Tools:Tape Measure/PencilClaw Hammer4-Foot LevelAngle SquareFraming SquareChalk LineChiselNail SetPlumb BobRatcheting Socket WrenchShovel/SpadeClamshell Post Hole Digger
Power Tools:Circular SawPower DrillPower Miter SawSaber/Jig Saw
Pressure-Treated Wood:2x4 Deck Boards/Railings2x6 Deck Boards/Railings2x8 End Joists2x10 End Joists/Stair Stringers2x12 Stair Stringers4x4 Railing Posts2x2 Railing Balusters1/2" CDX Plywood3/4" CDX Plywood
Incised Pressure-Treated Wood:2x6 Joists2x8 Joists2x10 Joists2x12 Stair Stringers4x4 Deck Posts4x6 Deck Posts/Beams4x8 Beams4x10 Beams4x12 Beams6x6 Deck Posts
Other Wood:1x Facia BoardsDeck BoardsRailing PostsRailing BalustersRailing Caps/Handrails
Hot-Dipped Galvanized orStainless Steel Fasteners:
Lag Screws/WashersHex-head Bolts/Nuts/WashersCarriage Bolts/Nuts/WashersCasing/Finish NailsCommon NailsBox NailsJoist Hanger NailsFlashingConcrete AnchorsJ-Bolts/Nuts/Washers
Other Fasteners:Coated Deck ScrewsDeck Clips
Connectors:Post Base ConnectorsPost-To-Beam ConnectorsJoist HangersAngle BracketsSeismic Ties
Foundation Materials:Landscape FabricPrecut Wood StakesPrecast Pier BlocksRebarPVC PipePremixed ConcreteFiberboard Form TubesPlastic Sheathing
Sealers and Stains: Brushes/SprayersEnd-Cut SolutionExterior StainSilicone Caulking/GunWood Sealer/Water Repellent
Check for tools, lumber, and materials you may need on your deck project.
![The Ultimate B2B Sales Funnel – How to Build the Machine [SLIDE DECK]](https://img.pdfslide.us/doc/110x75/55a207f91a28abe8788b47e1/the-ultimate-b2b-sales-funnel-how-to-build-the-machine-slide-deck.jpg)
