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CHIANG MAI - MAE HONG SON LOOPBudget WorldClass Drives

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ROADS IN THAILAND

All main and most minor roads are sealed. Signs and reflectivemarkers warn of hazards on major highways, and sodium lightingilluminates major intersections. Bilingual (English/Thai) road signsindicate destinations, highway numbers and distances before andafter intersections.

Kilometre stones show highway number and distance alongthe road on the front face, and distances to destinations in thedirection of travel on the side. The police and military set up roadcheck-points on highways, especially at night, but there are nosecurity problems.

Please remember to drive on the left!Emergency Assistance 1-800-BUDGET, Chiang Mai Office (0) 5320 2871,

(0) 1980 8723, Phitsanulok Office, (0) 5525 8556, (0) 1820 8644

www.budget.co.th

THighlights of the Drive

he Mae Hong Son Loop is a classicdrive that crosses and recrosses the

spectacular watershed between theRiver Ping and the Salween in Burma-Myanmar.

Starting in Chiang Mai, the culturaland historical capital of Northern Thai-land, a high route crosses to the smalltown of Pai, a very popular startingpoint for trekking into the hills to seethe Lahu, Hmong, Lisu and Karen hilltribes common to this region.

West of Pai the route goes througha rugged, mountainous territory withsunken valleys hemmed by cliffs pen-etrated by deep caves — an area thatoffers many opportunities for adven-ture sports amidst a landscape of out-standing natural beauty. Rejoining thePai River Valley near the provincialcapital Mae Hong Son, the highwayprovides the main link to this cultur-ally distinct enclave with its Shan andKaren peoples.

Three return routes offer choicesthat can take you on scenic routesdirectly back to Chiang Mai, or can takeyou as far as south as Phitsanulok viaSukhothai. Choose your route and thenenjoy your drive through some of themost spectacular territory in theKingdom.

Our fastest way to rent a car

Online Bookings:www.budget.co.th

2

to Mae Malai

to Mae Rim

to Mae Sa,Samoeng

1096

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107

11

CHIANG MAIPAISECTION 1 : 128 kms.

hile it is best to see thesights of inner Chiang

Mai on foot, or to hire a pedicab,your car becomes most usefulto see the sights around ChiangMai. These include Wat PhrathatDoi Suthep, a must for all whovisit Chiang Mai, and the MaeSa Valley, a scenic valley withso many attractions that the areamerits at least a full-day if not anight at one of the numerouscountry resorts (see sidebar andcity map section 4).

Once you are heading northon the route proper, take thealternative route from KM18north of Mae Rim through thecountryside following the RiverHao for a leisurely route whichjoins H1095 to Pai near KM10(see sidebar).

Leave Chiang Mai in goodtime, however, for the best scen-ery along the route is to befound in the last 60 kms, par-ticular from KM43 onwards asthe road reaches 1350m in alti-tude before descending into thevalley of the River Pai.

With its wooden buildingsand small town atmosphere, Pai has become a populardestination for back-packer tourists, and low-cost accom-modation is plentiful. The town itself is Shan and HawChinese, but Lisu hill-tribe folk can often be seen in themarket. The surrounding valley is a pretty, rural area goodfor walking or just relaxing before or after treks into thenearby hills.

Doi Suthep-Pui National Park TicketIf you buy an entrance ticket at either Doi Suthep-Pui

National Park, Mae Sa Falls, That Mok Falls or Mok Fa falls,you may visit any of these sites within the same day.

POINTER ONE

The intersection of Chotana Road,Highway (H)107 and the Chiang Mai -Lampang Superhighway.

KM16. Darapirom Palace Museum. Turn left just northof the footbridge across the highway, and continuing straightinto the Dararatsmi Camp of the Border Patrol Police. Keepgoing straight till you see a colonial style villa to the left.

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The museum details the life of Princess Dararatsmi, a con-sort of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). (09:00-17:00 closedMondays. Adults 50bht.)

POINTER TWO

H107 KM17 intersection with H1096 toSamoeng. See Mae Sa Valley Loopsidebar.

The Mae Sa Valley LoopAt KM17 H1096 goes west to the Mae Sa Valley and

Samoeng (38 kms). The upland valley of the Mae Sa is 700metres in altitude, making it a prime location for touristattractions and resorts near Chiang Mai.

Attractions include orchid farms (go left at KM2 forSainumphung Orchid & Butterfly Farm or try the Mae RamOrchid Farm KM6), waterfalls (KM6 & 11), the Mae SaElephant Camp (KM10), the Queen Sirikit Botainical Gar-dens (KM12) and the Pong Yaeng Elephant Camp (2 kmsfrom left turn at KM16-17).

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Up-market ResortsThe Regent Resort, Chiang Mai. $$$$ H1096 KM2 left turn 500m.Tel: (0) 5329 8181-9 Fax: (0) 5329 8190Hmong Lodge. $$$ Chiang MaiAdvance Res only:Tel & Fax: (0) 5321 5072Pongyang Garden Resort H1096 KM14$$$ Tel: (0) 5387 9151-2 Fax: (0) 5387 9153Ban Klang Doi Hotel & Resort H1269KM23 $$$Tel: (0) 5336 5306-7 Fax: (0) 5336 5254

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RusticFree Land Resort $. H1095KM17. Tel. CM Office: (0) 5330 6287-90Pa Daeng’s Cabin $ H1095 KM29.

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Mid-RangeLanna Resort. H1296 KM28.Tel: (0) 5324 8434 Fax: (0) 5336 5224

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Huai Nam Dang National Park

GolfChiang Mai Green Valley Country ClubTel: (0) 5329 8220-23 Fax: (0) 5329 7386Lanna Golf Course Tel: (0) 5322 1911Fax: (0) 5322 1743Royal Chiang Mai Golf Club. (Hotel $$$)Tel: (0) 5384 9301-6 Fax: (0) 5384 9310.<www.royalchiangmai.co.th>

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CHIANG MAICity Map (section 4)

CHIANG MAI to PAI

www.budget.co.th

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1265

Police Checkpoint

to MaeMalai

Wat Chan (alternative routeto Chiang Mai) 4WD!

to Chiang DaoFang

to Chiang Mai

1095

107

Mae Malai Market

A little west of KM4, a sealed road to the north leads toThat Mok Falls (9kms), From there a dirt road climbs up tothe village of Ban Pang Hai and Hmong Lodge (16kms)

H1096 passes into the Samoeng Valley at KM.23, fromwhere there are spectacular views west. Dirt roads (4WD!)lead to White Hmong villages in the hills of the Doi Suthep-Pui National range that surround the Mae Sa Valley. Thesmall market town of Samoeng lies in a narrow valley withpleasing rural scenery.

Return to Chiang Mai from Samoeng via H1269or continue from Samoeng to Wat Chan

POINTER THREE

(H107. KM36) Mae Malaimarket at the start of H1095 toPai and Mae Hong Son

KM18-19 south turn for Mok Fa Falls. 2kms(Entry fee included in Doi-Suthep Pui National Parkticket)

KM42 north turn for Pong Duet Hot Springs6kms. (200 Bht. gives access to Huai Nam DangNational Park at KM67 on the same day only)

KM67 Huai Nam Dang National Park (6kms).Dawn viewpoint towards Chiang Dao mountain.(200 bht. Adults. Tents available for rent: parkinformation Tel: (0) 5347 1669)

POINTER FOUR

H1095 KM85. Start of H1265 toWat Chan

KM87-88 north turn on concrete road to ThaphaiHot Springs (2kms. Though part of Huai Nam DangNational Park, there is no charge at present) as wellas two resorts with open-air hot mineral baths.

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ALTERNATIVE ROUTE ALONG THE HAO VALLEY(23KMS)

North of Pointer 2 you will cross a bridge (KM18)and then enter a bend to the left. Turn left through anarch at the sign to Thai Buffalo Training Camp. Thecamp is on the left after 1km (show times: 08:00/09:00/15:00/16:00 Adults 150bht. Tel: 0 5330 1628). Follow(do not go left at intersection after 1.5kms.) this ruralroute, which at times is reduced to a narrow concretelane. Rural temples of note are at Wat San Pa Yang(KM17) and Wat Tha Kham (by the Bo Tree at KM22).The route eventually joins H1095 between KM10&11,where-upon you turn left (west) to continue to Pai(this route misses pointer 3).

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE TO PAI VIA WAT CHAN (4WD!)If taking this route from Chiang Mai, start very early

and avoid delaying in the Mae Sa Valley in order to reachPai by nightfall. Avoid this route in the rainy season asmuddy sections, particularly around KM71 can make this“all-weather” road difficult.

From Samoeng the route follows a cobbled lane northto Ban Mae Sap Nua (5 kms.) and is sealed to near BanMae Yang Ha (30 kms.). The road continues on a windinghighland route passing Hmong villages (Ban Mae Chae-40 kms., Ban Mae Tala -54 kms., and Ban Don Sam Meun-75kms.) Ban Mae Chaem Noi (84 kms.) is a large Karenvillage in the middle of pine country.

From Wat Chan, which is in the middle of an areafamous for its pine forests, H1265 is an all-weather dirtroad that joins H1095 at KM.85. Cross the River Pai approx33 kms. from Wat Chan for a slightly shorter route to Paion the Pai-Muang Paeng road.

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View Pai Hotel

Pai Corner Bar

Be Bop Bar

Rim Pai Cottage

Jazz Up Cafe

Mountain Blue

Ban Wiang Nua

Ban Tan Chet Ton

To Ban Huai Chang Thao (Lisu) &Ban Muang Noi Pai Dam (33 kms.)

Ban Na Chalong

Wat Nam Hu

Ban Mai Sahasamphan (Lisu)

Army Camp

Hut Ing Pai

Ban Santichon(Haw Chinese)

Ban Mo PaengMuang Pai Resort

Pai Mountain Lodge

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Rim Pai CottageHospital

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Wat Mae Yen

Walk to Mae Yen Falls(2 hrs.)

Elephant Camp

Tha Pai Springs

Ban Thung Yao

Ban Phong Mai

Pai Canyon

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PAIMid-marketPai Cabana $. H105 KM101-2 north turn 500m Tel: (0) 5369 9190Skandia Resort $$ H105 KM12 $$. Tel: (0) 5369 9189Spa Exotic Home.$$ Ban Mae Hi. Tel: (0) 5369 8088, (0) 1917 9351Thapai Spa Camping $$ Ban Mae Hi Tel: (0) 5369 9695 Fax: (0) 5321 9610 Bkk Res: (0) 2944 6323

RusticSipsongpanna $ KM99 north turn 2kms, Ban Viang Nua(art and cooking courses)The Sun Hut. $ Ban Mae Yen Tel: (0) 5369 9730, (0) 1960 6519

Trekking & Rafting AgenciesBack Trax, Rungsiyanon Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 9739Permchai’s Trekking, Ratsadondamrong Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 8048Thai Adventure Rafting, Rungsiyanon Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 9111Northern Green Tours, Chaisongkhram Rd, Tel: (0) 5369 9385Elephant Camp Office

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Guest Houses PP Orchid. Tel: (0) 5369 9159River Corner Guest House Tel: (0) 5369 9149The Golden Hut Tel: (0) 5369 9949

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ACCOMMODATION

• Hut Ing Pai $$, H1095 KM102-3 south turn 300m.Tel: (0) 5369 9781-2. Bkk Res: (0) 2702 7208.<www.hutingpai.com>

• Muang Pai Resort. $ . H1095 KM101-2 left turn 5kms.Tel: CM office (0) 5327 0906, Fax: (0) 5327 2895.Resort (0) 5369 9988.

• Pai Mountain Lodge $ $, H1095 KM101-2 left turn5kms. Tel: (0) 5369 9995, (0) 1950 1603

• Rim Pai Cottages $ - $$ , Chaisongkhram Rd, PaiTel: (0) 5369 9133

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to Ban Nam Hu

to MaeHong Son

1095

to Rungsiyanon Rd.

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PAIMAE HONG SONSECTION 2 : 109 kms.

he route to Mae Hong Son goes via Soppong, passingthrough beautiful scenery as it traverses the valley of

the River Khong. Side trips offer possibilities for explorationin the sheer limestone scenery of the area.

After descending from the mountains, Highway 1095akirts the floor of the valley used for rice cultivation as itapproaches the provincial capital, Mae Hong Son.

Known as the City of Mists, Mae Hong Son’s recentmodernisation has cost many of its old wooden buildings,but the area around the Chong Kham Lake retains its oldcharm. The town’s Shan heritage becomes especiallypronounced during their main festivals, the Poi Sang Lonfestival in March or May, and the Hae Chong Phara festivalin the eleventh lunar month.

5 POINTER FIVE

KM98 the departure point of H1095 westfrom Pai

KM99. A left turn at the sign for Sipsongpanna guesthouse is the start of a route that goes to Muang Noi andthe Pai Dam (32kms). The dam itself is of no interest, butthe dirt road (4WD) passes Lisu and Karen villages en route.

KM101-2 A concrete lane leads to a Northern Thaivillage and the Muang Pai and Pai Mountain Lodge resorts.A very rough (4WD!) 2km dirt road continues to a Lahuvillage and the minor Mo Paeng Falls.

KM141 A concrete road leads north Ban Tham Lot,where you turn right at the junction by the tree and go onekilometre to Tham Lot Cave. Villagers await with lanterns(100bht) and rafts (100bht) to escort you through the cave

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Mid-RangeMae Hong Son Resort $$ H1250 KM2-3Tel: (0) 5361 3138-9 Fax: (0) 5361 3137Mae Hong Son Riverside Hotel $$$, Ban Huai Dua.Tel: (0) 5361 1504, (0) 5361 3145 Fax: (0) 5361 3146.<www.mhsriverside.com>Rim Nam Klang Doi $$ Ban Huai Dua Tel: (0) 5361 2142 Fax: (0) 5361 2086Saksuay Klangdoi Resort $$ H1095 KM202-3west turn 300m. Tel: (0) 5361 1929 Fax: (0) 5361 1764Sam Mork Villas. $-$$ H1250 KM1-2 Tel: (0) 5361 1478

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Up-MarketFern Resort $$-$$$ H108 KM260 east turn 2kms.Off Tel: (0) 5361 1374, (0) 5361 1877 Fax: (0) 5361 2363. Resort Tel: (0) 5361 3585Golden Pai Resort $$$ H1095 KM202 west turn500m, Ban Pang Mu. Tel.&Fax: (0) 5361 2265-6.CM Off: (0) 5327 1198 Fax: (0) 5327 9260

RusticCave Lodge $-$$ H1095 KM141 north turn 7kms.E-mail <cavelodge@hotmail.com>Wilderness Lodge $ H1095 KM166 north turn4WD 1.5kms Lang River Guest House $ H1095 KM141 north turn8kmsLisu Lodge, Ban Huai Nam Rin. H1095 KM131

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Mae Surin National Park HQ

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(08:00-17:30). Cave Lodge nearby has comfortable roomsand offers canoe trips, expert speleology and informationon adventures into the area.

KM152 Sealed road to Mae La Na (4WD). The asphaltand dirt road passes the Lahu village of Chabo (3.5kms)before dropping down to the Shan village of Mae La Na(5.5kms). From there a dirt road continues north (4WDonly), passing the Red Lahu villages of Ban Pha Charoen(8kms) and Yapanae (11.5).

A sign at the junction north of Chabo indicates dis-tances to distant villages on a sealed road (sealed 4kms,4WD only beyond!) that follows a spectacular ridge linenorth towards the border with Myanmar. Allow a full dayfor exploration.

KM166 dirt road to Wilderness Lodge (4WD1.5kms-park at top of entrance track to lodge).Remote, rustic ($) accommodation for naturelovers only. Walk and explore.

KM191-2 Tham Pla (Fish Cave). Part ofthe Tham Pla Nam Tok Pha Sua National Park(HQ is 9kms north on H1285), Tham Pla is apleasant roadside halt (no charge at present).At KM92 a concrete lane to the right goes 2.2kms. Turn left at its conclusion in a T junctionand right at the second T junction. Note theBan Na Restaurant nearby en route to Pha SuaFalls (partly spoiled by a hydro-electric project).The asphalt road continues for 24 kms up tothe Hmong village of Ban Na Pa Paek, offeringsome great views. Turn right for a dirt road toMae Aw, a high plateau area for growingtea—6kms.

By turning left at the second T junctionyou can go to Mae Hong Son, rejoining H1095at Km199. One kilometre before this junctionan asphalt road south goes 18kms to Ban NaiSoi, from where you follow a dirt road (4WD -2kms) to reach a Padaung refugee village(See Padaung Sidebar)

ACCOMMODATION

• Golden Pai Resort $$$ H1095 KM202,west turn 500m, Ban Pang Mu. Tel:&Fax:(0) 5361 2265-6. CM Off: (0) 5327 3198,(0) 5328 2579 Fax: (0) 5327 9260

• Imperial Tara Mae Hong Son $$$$ H108KM194, Tel.: (0) 5361 1021-25 Fax: (0) 53611252 Bkk Res: (0) 2261 900 ext. IR.<www.imperialhotels.com>

• Fern Resort $$-$$$ H108 KM260 eastturn 2kms. Off Tel: (0) 5361 1374, (0) 53611877 Fax: (0) 5361 2363. Resort Tel: (0)5361 3585

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Jungle Guest House $

Market

Wat Ming Muan

Lemon Hill Guest House $Soppong River Inn.$Tel: (0) 5361 7107

Phrae House Restaurant12:00-22:00

T-Rex House $ Tel: (0) 5361 7164Fax: (0) 5361 7053

(old Soppong)

To Ban Tham & Cave Lodge (7 kms),Tham Lot (8 kms.)

to Phang Maphadistrict office

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Tourist Police

Airport

Wat Chong Klang

Wat Huai To

Wat Hua Wiang

Khunlumphraphat Rd.

Wat PhrathatDoi Kong Mu

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City Hall

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Up-marketImperial Tara Mae Hong Son $$$$ H108 KM194,Tel: (0) 5361 1021-25 Fax: (0) 5361 1252Bkk Res: (0) 2261 900 ext IR. <www.imperialhotels.com>Rooks Holiday Hotel & Resort $$$-$$$$,Khunlumphrapat Rd. Tel: (0) 5361 1390, (0) 5361 2108Fax: (0) 5361 1524 Bkk Res: (0) 2276 1233

Mid-RangeMae Hong Son Hill Resort $$ Khunlumphrapat Rd.Tel: (0) 5361 2475. E-mail<dao_31@hotmail.com>Mae Hong Son Mountain Inn $$ Khunlumphrapat Rd.Tel: (0) 5361 1309, (0) 5361 2285 Fax: (0) 5361 2284Piya Guest House $$, Chong Kham LakeTel: (0) 5361 1260 Fax: (0) 5361 2308

City Hotels & Guest HousesBaiyoke Chalet Hotel $$, Khunlumphrapat Rd.Tel: (0) 5361 1486 Fax: (0) 5326 0939Benchaporn Guest House $ Tel: (0) 5361 1577Panorama Hotel $-$$ Khunlumphrapat Rd.Tel: (0) 5361 1757 Fax: (0) 5361 1790TN House $-$$ Khulumphrapat Rd. Tel: (0) 5362 0557

Tour AgenciesTN Tour, Khunlumphrapat Rd. Tel: (0) 5362 0557, (0) 5362 0059 Fax: (0) 5362 0060Rose Garden Tours, Khulumphrapat Rd. Tel: (0) 5361 1681

RestaurantsFern 10:30-22:00Kai Muk 10:00-03:00Thip 10:30-24:00Swiss Chalet

Kat Kam Plaza (department store) Guest House

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MAE HONG SONMAE SARIANGSECTION 3 : 164 kms.

outh of Mae Hong Son the road follows narrow valleys,climbing over low passes while following a route that

runs along the foot of the high range to the east, a patternthat continues south of Khun Yuam, where the road oftentakes a tortuous route following narrow valleys.

The best side trips offer possibilities to climb high intothe hills to the east of the highway, while routes west fromMae Sariang offer the best opportunity to see the RiverSalween (see sidebar). The first and most scenic of threepossible return routes to Chiang Mai begins in Khun Yuam,but may only be used by vehicles with 4WD (see section 4)

Mae Sariang is a district town that has been bypassedby the highway and by extensive modern development. Thenarrow street and wooden buildings along the river bankhave helped preserve some of the charm of an old riverroute trading town.

From Mae Sariang, you may take Highway 108 east backover the mountains for a straightforward return to ChiangMai (section 4), or you may continue south along an equallyscenic route following the Moei River.

The Padaung — the Long Neck KarenThe Padaung are famous for their “long neck” women.

The women do not have long necks as such, but haveshoulders forced down by coils worn since they wereyoung. They may be seen in three villages; in a refugeecamp in Ban Nai Soi (west from H1095 at KM199 — seeend section 2), in Ban Huai Sua Tao and , perhaps mostpreferably, by boat from Ban Huai Dua (see H1250 frompointer 6). Foreigners must pay 250bht/head at any of thesites. Thais are free

POINTER SIX

H108 KM194 The junction of H1250 toBan Huai Dua (see sidebar).

H1250 from Pointer 6H1250 forks after 1km. The right fork first crosses the

River Pai and then bears left on a concrete lane. Signs forHuai Sua Tao “long-necks” direct you to the Padaung vil-lage (currently 5 kms and 12 fords from the cement lane—acement extension is under construction). Total distance 10kms from H108 4WD!

The fork left (south) goes to Ban Huai Dua (4kms)passing two riverside resorts en route. Charter a boat(500bht. for 2 hrs.) from Huai Dua for the two hour trip toa Padaung village on the banks of the Pai River as well asto Ban Phiang Din, a village downstream.

KM235. 100m past this marker a narrow, asphalt laneclimbs steeply for 10 kms to a Hmong Village (Meo Micro-wave) and a microwave station at 1470m. Superb views,especially if you walk north from the station. Allow 2 hours.

6

S

108

1266

108

1263

1194105

N

10kms

M Y A N M A R

Nam Phiang Din

∫.πÈ”‡æ’¬ß¥‘π

Huai Sua Thao

Tha Bong∫.∑à“∫âÕß

Meo Microwave

1068

1752

MAE HONG SON·¡àŒàÕß Õπ

Huai Pong∫.À⫬‚ªÉß

Ban Klang∫.°≈“ß

Mae Surin∫.·¡à ÿ√‘π

Ban Sape∫. –‡ª

KHUN YUAMÕ.¢ÿπ¬«¡

MAE SARIANGÕ.·¡à –‡√’¬ß

MAE LA NOIÕ.·¡à≈“πâÕ¬

Ban To Phae∫.µàÕ·æ

Ban Pang Ung∫.ª“ßÕÿß

Ban Muang Pon∫.‡¡◊ÕߪÕπ

Ban Nong Haeng∫.ÀπÕß·Àâß

Ban Mae La Luang∫.·¡à≈“À≈«ß

Ban La Up∫.·¡à≈–Õÿ∫

Pha Pum∫.º“ªÿÑ¡

Mae Top∫.·¡àµÕ∫

Sop Han∫. ∫À“π

Pho So∫.‚æ´Õ

Mae Ho∫.·¡à‡À“–

Salween National Park HQ

Tha Ta Fang∫.∑“µ“Ωíòß

07:00-21:00

24 Hrs

Mae Surin Falls

938

Bua Thong (sunflower)fields

1056

1326

1818

1561

12251020

1430

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a m

S a l w e e n

For accommodation in this section see Section 2 Mapfor locations near Mae Hong Son and town maps forKhun Yuam and Mae Sariang.

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MAE HONG SON to MAE SARIANG6

7

8

www.budget.co.th

7

to Khun Yuam

108

km2011263

to Surin FallsMae Chaem

KM229 To fellow warriors, wish your soulsbe blissfully in heaven. Roadside shrine toJapanese victims of World War Two buried nearthis spot.

POINTER SEVEN

H108 KM201. Intersectionwith H1263 to Mae SurinFalls (37kms), Bua ThongFields (26kms) & MaeChaem (96kms) (See section4 — all routes 4WD!)

KM200-199 Khun Yuam Museum (08:30-16:30 daily. donation) houses Japanese warmemorabilia including many photos. KhunYuam high street begins south of the museum.Take the concrete road bearing south-westaround a former landing strip south of theMuseum to see Wat To Phae (4kms) — a Shantemple known for its tapestry kept in a parti-tioned room to the left of the entrance in themain vihara.

KM132 H1266 is a dirt road (4WD!) thatgoes to Ban La Up (25kms), a Christian Lawavillage known for its cloth weaving. For acircular route to Ban Kong Loi on H108 at KM56(do not attempt during rainy season — seesection 4), continue to Ban Du La Poe (31kms)and take the road up the ridge. At approx KM36take the right fork (lower road) to the Lawa

To the River SalweenThe simplest route is by H1194 from Mae Sariang to

Mae Sam Laep (45kms) from where approx. 2 hour boattrips can be made south to the confluence of the Moei andSalween (650 bht.), or north to Tha Ta Fang (750 bht.).Until a bridge is built, to reach Mae Sam Laep itself youmust exit the sealed road after KM45 onto a track down tothe river bed, double back, ford the river and enter thelane on the opposite side of valley.

You can also stay a night at the National Park site over-looking the Salween near Tha Ta Fang (36kms by dirt road— 4WD!). Visit the Salween National Park HQ (08:30-16:30) the day before to prearrange a park guide and buyyour food in Mae Sariang before leaving. To reach thePark HQ, go on H1194 to KM1 + 500m and then headstraight west onto the cement lane at the corner. Turn leftat ornamental sign 400m after cement surface ends anddrive 2kms to park HQ (4WD!)

7

Khrua Pik Mai07:00-23:00

Sumitra Hotel

Wat Huai To

(4 kms)

Wat To Phae

Museum

H 1263 to Mae Chaem (4WD!)To Mae Surin Falls

SHOPS

SHOPS

108

NKHUN YUAM

H

H

H

Nong Anne

108

201

200

199

to Pratu Muang

24

to Mae La Na

to Mae Hong Son

Ban Farang Guest House $ Khun YuamTel: & Fax: (0) 5362 2085-6, (0) 5361 1577

Mitr Khun Yuam Hotel $$, Khun Yuam.Tel: (0) 5369 1057, (0) 5362 2181

7

disu

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(airs

trip)

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to Mae Hong Son

Royal Foundation forHandicrafts

06:00-20:00

toMae Sam Laep

(46 kms),Salween National

Park Mitr A Ree Hotel

Kamolsorn Hotel

Wang Noi Guest HouseInthra 08:00-23:00

Wat Suphan Rangsri

Lotus Hotel

103

km104

to Mae Sot (230 kms)

Wiangmai Rd.

Laen

gPh

anit

Rd.

Wat Chai Lop

NMAE SARIANG

1

3

2

H

H

H1194

108

105

(section 5)

(section 4)

to Chiang Mai

Rungthara

8@

M

M

Renu 09:00-23:00

Mid-RangeMitr A Ree Guest House $$$ Tel: (0) 5368 1109 Fax: (0) 5368 1280

RusticRiverside Guest House & Northwest Guest House $ (& FAZ travel)See View Guest House $, Mae Sariang Tel: (0) 5368 1556

1

23

bus stationPost OfficeFresh Market

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village of Ban La-Ang Nua (41kms). 500m beyond BanLa-ang Nua you will come to a gravelled road headingsouth to Ban Santitham (71kms — drum fuel), eventuallybecoming H1270 to Ban Kong Loi (108kms).

ACCOMMODATION

• Mitr A Ree Guest House $$$ , Mae Sariang, Tel: (0) 53681109 Fax: (0) 5368 1280

8

1088 to Hot

to Mae Chaem

to Mae Sariang

km22

to Chiang Mai

to Khun Yuam

to Mae Sot

toMae

Sariang 105

108

MAE SARIANGCHIANG MAISECTION 4 : 190 kms.

108 climbs to the Karen village of Ban Mae Ho at KM84,crossing high valleys and cleared uplands that form

the upper headwaters of the Mae Rit River. After crossingthe BoLuang Plateau, the route descends to follow a prettyvalley route following the Mae Chaem River to Hot.

From Hot, H108 is a busy road heading north for ChiangMai, passing Chom Thong and Sanpatong, major districttowns en route. Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest peak, andthe National Park (see sidebar) may be visited by making adetour on highways 1088, 1009, or as part of the direct routefrom Khun Yuam (see Khun Yuam to Chom Thong sidebar)

POINTER EIGHT

H108 KM103 junction with H105 to SopMoei and South (see section 5 for routessouth and west from Mae Sariang)

H KM55-6 H1270 to the Mae Tho National Park (16kms)and the Lawa village of Ban La Ang Nua (67kms) links upwith H1266 to Ban La Up (see section 3 KM128).

KM39 South turn for Om Koi (50kms) and Mae Tun(138kms). Because there is only one way into these pineforested uplands inhabited mainly by Karen, tourism hasbypassed this area. Khun Ruj of Om Koi Resort, $ (turnright at cross-roads in Om Koi and drive 1km. Tel: (0) 19507789) offers expert guidance to the local Karen hill tribeculture.

POINTER NINE

H108 KM22 H1088 to Mae Chaem(45kms). Take this route to approach DoiInthanon National Park from the west,

and check out possibilities for “Ecotourist activities at theReforestation Office at KM16.

8 9

1270

1192

1184

1009

11

107

1269

1088

108

1033

1013106

108

1266

108

1263

1194

105

106

106

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Mae Ho∫.·¡à‡À“–

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Mae Sam Laep

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Om Khut

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Salween National Park HQ

Mae Ngao National Park HQ

Lao Lee National Park HQ

Ob Luang National Park

Doi Inthanon National Park

Mae Na Chon

Sop Wak

Mae Sa

∫.·¡àπ“®√Huai Tong

Bo Kaeo

∫.À⫬µÕß

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Pang Kia

Ban Wang Lung

Raft restaurants

∫.«—ßÀ≈«ß

Mae Pok∫.·¡àªÕ°

Mai Takhian

Pong Lo

Nong Ap Chang∫.ÀπÕßÕ“∫™â“ß

Wat Bang Pang

Wat PhraphuttabatTak Pha

1326

1020

1214

1668

1225

1561

1816

1505

1750

2590

1550

1685

1462

Doi Suthep-PuiNational Park

Wat PhrathatDoi Suthep

Hod Resort $$ H108 KM4. Tel&Fax: (0) 5346 1070Inthanon Riverside Resort $$$, (6kms east fromlights in Chom Thong), Lamphum.Tel: (0) 5323 3781-3 Fax: (0) 5325 1751Krairas Resort $$ H108 KM17. Tel: (0) 5322 9285CM Off: (0) 5338 4542-3Little Home Guest House $ H1009 KM7Tel: (0) 1224 3446Navasoung Resort $$ H1192 KM19Tel: & Fax: (0) 5382 8477Om Koi Guest Houe $$ H1099 KM50 Ban Nam Ngao Guest House $. H105 KM191Tel: (0) 5368 1188, (0) 5368 1956 Fax: (0) 5368 1353E-mail <asupalak@hotmail.com>

12

3

4

5

67

(section 5)(section 5)

13

12

11

Wat PhrathatChom Thong CHOM THONG

Mae Yai Falls

Mae Pan Falls

Mae Klang Falls

7

8

9

10

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Fuel

MAE SARIANG to CHIANG MAI

www.budget.co.th

9

to City

108

to H11

to Airport Airport Plaza to Hang Dong

to Suan Dok

R

to Samoeng

to Hot

to Chiang Mai

108

1269

to Chiang Mai

to Chom Thong

to DoiInthanon

1009

Clock tower

1103

108

1012

toDoiTao

Hot

to MaeSariag

11

12KM17 Ob Luang Gorge National Park. Short walks con-nected by footbridges span the Mae Chaem River as it passesthrough a narrow gorge.

POINTER TEN

H108 KM88/0 junction with H1012 forH1103 to Doi Tao

KM59-60 Wat Phrathat Chom Thong temple

POINTER ELEVEN

H108 KM57 junction with H1009 to DoiInthanon and Mae Chaem (alternativeroute form Khun Yuam).

Doi Inthanon National ParkH1009 goes to the summit of Doi Inthanon (47kms),

passing three major waterfalls; the Mae Yai Falls (KM1south turn 13kms), Mae Klang Falls (KM7-8 south turn1km), Vachiratarn Falls (KM20 north turn & park), thePark HQ at KM31 (accommodation, visitor centre &permits for Kiw Mae Pan trail at KM42. Tel: (0) 53311608), the Royal Pagodas (KM40 west turn), and thesummit (47kms). Access to the Mae Pan falls is fromH1192 KM6-7 (3kms 4WD). The national park entrancefee will give you access to all sites in the park for oneday. The park also runs a home-stay ecotourismprogramme at KM26 (Tel: (0) 1881 7346 or (0) 12586071)

The following resorts are in good locations for anearly start to explore Doi Inthanon:

Little Home Guest House H1009 KM7 Tel: (0)1224 3446

Navasoung Resort H1192 KM19 Tel: & Fax:(0) 5382 8477

KHUN YUAM TO CHOM THONG VIA DOI INTHANON.156kms 4WD only!

From Pointer 7, H1263 is a sealed road which goes 66kmsover a route that offers fine vistas over the mountainousterritory in this area.

KM12-13. Turn north (left) on the road (asphalt 3kmsonly—4WD) for the steep climb to the Hmong village ofBan U-Kho and the Bua Thong fields (the sunflowers bloommid Nov. to early Dec.— 6kms). You can enjoy fine viewswest on the route to the Mae Surin National Park at theFalls (28kms).

H1263 climbs to KM20 (kilometre stones stop at thispoint), offering good views west near the top of the pass.The Hmong Villages of Ban Pang Oung (KM23) and BangPang Kia (KM28 - fuel available) and the Karen village ofBan Huai Bong (KM19 from junction with H1088) lie alongthe route.

After 66kms the sealed road ends at a T junction, whereyou turn south (right) on the metalled dirt surface of whatpurports to be Highway 1088 at approx. KM78.

The route descends on the rough, dusty dirt road for5kms to Ban Mae Na Chon before reaching a pitted sealedsurface approaching the village (KM72). Turn right (south)at T junction in the village and go straight south to MaeChaem on the mostly sealed road (very rough dirt roadKM65-62!)

Turn east (left) in Mae Chaem (KM46) and follow H1088till KM45-44, where you take H1192 uphill to Doi Inthanon.Take care on the narrow and steep road as it climbs up20kms to a checkpoint (National Park Fee 200bht/adult)and H1009 to Chom Thong at KM37-38.

Resorts in Chom Thong, Hot and Mae Chaem offer apossible base for a night’s rest before a day’s exploration ofMae Chaem and Doi Inthanon National Park (See DoiInthanon sidebar)

10

POINTER TWELVE

H108 KM10-11 junction with H1269 toSamoeng.

POINTER THIRTEEN

H108 KM4-5 junction with OmMuang Rd. Welcome to Chiang Mai.

13

CHIANG MAI

M

N

M

Airport

PI N

GR

IVER

Train StationN

108

1006

118

107

11

11

106

4

1

5 23

N

M

M

bus stationPost OfficeFresh Marketbridged interchangeintersection with lightsone-wayNight BazaarTAT (0) 5324 8604, (0) 5324 8607

1. Wat Chiang Man2. Wat Chedi Luang3. Wat Phra Singh4. Wat Chet Yot5. Wat Suan DokThree Kings Monument

Tel: (0) 5320 2871

1

13

bus stationCarrefour

Makro

SS

S

S

S

Kat Suan Kaew

Airport Plaza

Lotus

to Chom Thong (section 4) to Lamphun (section 5)

to Mae Rim (section 1)

to Chiang Rai

to Doi Suthep

to Lampang

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Arcade

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10

Phop PhraUmphang

to Takbypassto bridge

105 105

1090

to MaeSot town

to tha Song Yang

to Mae Sot

105

1175 to Ban Tak(alternative route)

MAE SARIANGCHIANG MAI VIA MAE SOTSECTION 5 : 593 kms.

he route southfrom pointer 8

on H105 to Mae Sot(232 kms) is remoteand especially pictur-esque as far as MaeSalit (120kms), but donot travel on this sen-sitive border route atnight.

Mae Sot has acolourful morningmarket, jewelleryshops selling Bur-mese gems (perhapsat good prices) andan active night-lifeYou may cross theThai Myanmar Friend-ship Bridge intoMiyawaddi withoutyour Budget vehiclefor a one-day visit till17:30hrs.

From Mae Sot,H105 crosses theranges over to Tak(83kms), from whereyou may take H12 toSukhothai (80kms)and Phitsanulok(138kms — seeBudget’s WorldClassDrives “Chiang Mai-Sukhothai Loop &“Loei and the MiddleMekong). To returnto Chiang Mai, takeH1 for a fast route, orfollow the minor roads on the west bank of the Ping andWang rivers to Thoen (92kms), and then H106 to the oldnorthern capital of Lamphun and Chiang Mai (181kms fromThoen).

H105 Mae Sariang to Mae Sot (232 kms — fuel fromdrums only till KM33!). KM190 a rough track (4WD!) leadsto a riverside camp site at the Mae Ngao National Park(5kms). From KM115-14, H1267 climbs to The Moei RiverNational Park HQ (11 kms) and viewpoints near KM18-20and Karen Villages beyond (35kms). The Mae Usu caves(KM94 west turn 2kms) are part of the national park. Rusticaccommodation in lovely locations at KM190 (Ban NamNgao), KM143 (Pa Pa Valley) and KM116 (Wila GuestHouse)

15

14

T

POINTER FOURTEEN

H105 KM35-6 H1175 is a scenic narrow roadto Ban Tak (94kms) avoiding Mae Sot — nofuel on this route!

POINTER FIFTEEN

The circle junction at KM76 east of Mae Sot.Turn south on H1090 for Umphang (164kms- see sidebar)

H105 Mae Sot to Tak (83kms). KM26 Taksin MaharatNational Park. A north turn (3kms) leads to the park and asteep 400m trail down to a large specimen of diptero-carpus.anisoptera; KM26-25 Hill Tribe Welfare DevelopmentCentre and Lahu village (south turn 5kms); KM12 LangSang National Park — a south turn goes to a small localwaterfall (3kms).

1175

1267

1090

1108

105

105

12

1107

1175

1

106

1102

1

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1206

1109

1110

N

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Ban Tha Song Yang

checkpoint

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Tham Usu (cave)

Mae Usu

Refugee Camp (Bae Ko)

∫.·¡àÕÿ ÿ

Ban Chong Khep

Chedi KhoKulap Doi

(07:00-21:00)

∫.‡®¥’¬å‚§ä–

Mae Lamao∫.·¡à≈–‡¡“

Nong Luang

BanKklongLan∫.ÀπÕßÀ≈«ß Huai Nam Yen

(no through route)

Pha Charoen Falls

Lan Sang Falls& National Park

Khlong Lan Falls& National Park

Mae Wong National Park

MarketPha Wo Shrine

Taksin MaharatNational Park

HilltribeDevelopment

Centre

Na Bot∫.π“‚∫ å

Ban Tha PuiBhumiphol Golf Club(0) 5559 9093-6

Dam

Mae Rawan

Huai Khi Nok

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Kaeng Ko (boats)

Ban Thung Ko

Ban Yang Piang

(section 4)

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∫.·¡à‡™’¬ß√“¬

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Mae Moei National Park

Mae NgaoNational Park

Ko Falls

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ElephantConservation Centre

Wat PhrathatLampang Luang

LIÕ.≈’È

Mai Takhian

RusticBan Nam Ngao Guest House $.H105 KM191 Tel: (0) 5568 1188,(0) 5568 1956 Fax: (0) 5568 1353 E-mail<asupalak@hotmail.com>Pa Pa Valley $ H105 KM143(Ban Tha Song Yang)Wila Guest House $ H105KM116 (Ban Mae Salit)

3

4

5

4

5

1

2

3

Mid-RangeTaweechai Resort$-$$$ H105KM71 Tel: (0) 55531287, (0) 5553 1569Fax: (0) 5553 3203 BkkRes: (0) 2656 5661Suan Kamol Resort$$ H105 KM20Tel: (0) 5558 1451

1

2

13

1216

15

1417

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Chiang Mai-LamphunGolf Club (0) 5324 8397-8

Fuel

Fuel

MAE SARIANG to THOEN

18

www.budget.co.th

11

to Tak

1061

to Thoen

to Li, Lamphunto Lampang

km513Wat Wiang (2kms)

to Ban Tak

to Bhumiphol DamYuttahattiPagoda

alternativeroute fromMae Ramat

1107

km31(1km)

1175

to Mae Sot (H105)Bangkok

to H1107(cross riverfor alternativeroute)

to Chiang Mai (fast route)

1

12

Lampang

to SukhothaiPhitsanulok

16

18

POINTER SIXTEEN

The junction of H1 and H12. Go westfor H1107 to Ban Tak and rural routeto Bhumiphol Dam. Take Highway12 east for Sukhothai (see Budget’s‘Chiang Mai-Sukhothai Loop’), or H1for the fastest route north.

POINTER SEVENTEEN

H1107 KM30-31 termination of alterna-tive route H1175 to Mae Ramat (pointer

17

H1090 to UmphangThis highway is the only way in

to Umphang (164kms) — a smalldistrict town bounded by mountainsand nature reserves. Turn left at forkat KM31 and fill up with fuel at lastgas station before Umphang nearKM44. Allow at least 5 hours on thisspectacular, but slow highway.

Comfortable, if not rustic,guesthouse/resorts organise rafting,elephant and trekking tours toKaren villages, the Tilosu Falls andforest reserves. Advance bookingrecommended.

Tu Ka Su Cottage - .Rooms in family sized bungalows.Tel: (0) 5556 1295.

Umphang Hill Resort -$$$Tel: (0) 5556 1063-4 or call SP Tourin Mae Sot

14). The small Yuttahatti Pagoda is 1km down this road. Ifproceeding to Bhumiphol Dam, keep going straight aftercrossing river (KM54), crossing several lanes till you cometo a T junction with main road. Turn left for Dam (5kms)and right for H1 (14kms).

H1 Tak to Thoen 92kms - fast divided highway. Theroad to the Bhumiphol Dam (8th largest concrete arch damgoes west at KM463. H1102 to Mae Phrik at KM490-1provides an alternative rural route to Thoen.

POINTER EIGHTTEEN

H1 KM513-4 west turn for H106 to Li.After crossing the river, a south turn leadsto Thoen district town (4kms) and H1102along the west bank. Wat Wiang (2kms)has one of only a few remaining classicnorthern-style vihara.

H106 Thoen to Lamphun (155kms) and Chiang Mai(181kms) — see section 4 map. Beware of heavy trucks

from the lignitemine near KM36 onthe bends betweenKM12-29! At KM 47H1087 goes to theMae Ping NationalPark HQ (20kms),Ko Falls (42kms)and the Kaeng KoRapids (43kms).Rafts accommodationavailable as well asboat trips on the MaePing Lake. Advancebooking recom-mended (Tel: (0) 53519031). Sights inLamphun include WatPhrathat Haripunchaiand Wat Chamadevi.

to Moei River Bridge & Myanmar

to Mae SariangKhao-Mao Khao-Fang(km.2 10:00-22:00)

Kwangtung (Chinese)Restaurant

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Morning market area

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MAE SOT

1Mid-RangeCentral Mae Sot Hill Hotel, $$-$$$ Asia Highway (H105 KM77-8)Tel: (0) 5553 2601-8. Bkk Res: (0) 2541 1234 ex 4444

City HotelsDK $ Hotel Intakhiri Rd. Tel: (0) 5554 2648-9, (0) 5553 1699Pornthep Hotel $-$$ Soi Sriwiang. Tel: (0) 5553 2590-4

Rafting/Trekking (Umphang area) Mae Sot Travel Centre SP Tour. Tel: (0) 5553 1409, (0) 5554 6121-3Fax: (0) 5553 2279 Bkk Off: (0) 2573 7942, (0) 2981 9991-2

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Mid RangeViang Tak Hotel $$ MahatThai Bamrung Rd.Tel: (0) 5551 1910, (0) 5551 1950 Viang Tak 2 Hotel $$Chomphol Rd.Tel: (0) 5551 2686, (0) 5551 2507Bkk Res: (0) 2511 2363

City HotelsSuan Sin Garden Resort $Tel: (0) 5551 1102Songwon Thai Hotel $ Taksin Rd:Tel: (0) 5551 1153

Tourism Authority of ThailandTel: (0) 5551 4341-3

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INSTRUCTIONS

umbered pointers listed in sequence in the direction of travel showimportant road junctions along the recommended route (reverse these if

travelling in the opposite direction). These are illustrated as follows.N

Kilometre references are noted intwo ways:

H107 KM13 = Highway 107 kilometrestone 13 is close to the point offocus

H107 KM98-9 = The point of focus liesbetween kilometre stones 98&99.

Kilometre stones are usually foundat 1 or 2 km intervals on most num-bered highways. Though names arewritten in Thai, the highway number(top front face of stone) confirms yourroute in the absence of English signs.

Background shading indicatespoints of interest/side trip/alternativeroad along or off the recommendedroute.

H108* = Black stars by highwaynumbers/along routes indicate roughpatches where the sealed surface hasbuckled/potholed and broken up. Beready to slow right down frequently,avoid driving faster than 60 kph!

4WD Only! If you are driving avehicle that does not have four wheeldrive, please do not take this road.Though it is not usually necessary toengage the 4WD itself, the higherclearance and fortified suspension ofsuch vehicles make their use obligatoryon such roads.

Dirt Roads go all over the moun-tains of N. Thailand, but there are fewsigns, even in Thai, and it is very easyto get disoriented. Main unsealed roadsare all-weather, but in the rainy seasonmost dirt roads will often have patcheswith deep mud ruts, glutinous mud thatclogs up the wheels and or moistcompacted mud that is so slippery thatchains are obligatory — under nocircumstances venture onto dirt roadsin the hills during the rainy season!

We recommend that you avoid dirtroads, as you will be responsible foranything that happens to vehicles offregularly maintained and pavedroadways. Should you go on a dirtroad, however, please drive very slowlyto avoid mechanical problems and tokeep the dust down, especially whenpassing people and communities.

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For reservations, please contact yourtravel consultant or call Budget:

In the U.K.: 0541 565-656, In the U.S.: (800) 527-0700In Germany: 01805 244-388, In Australia: 1-300 362-848

In Singapore: 532-4442, In Thailand: 1-800-BUDGET

3

4

Pointer numberand directionof travel

HighwayNumber

Go this way

Remember to always take drinkingwater - allow for emergencies. Makesure you have a torch, enough fuel,basic provisions and warm clothingbefore entering remote roads throughmountainous areas.

Help us get it right! If you havesuggestions or wish to point out errorsin this guide, please advise our staff.

INFORMATION

This guide is designed tocomplement regular guide-books. Theoffices of the Tourism Authority ofThailand (TAT — locations on citymaps) at Chiang Mai and Tak can alsoprovide very useful information andbrochures.

ACCOMMODATION

Country resorts often occupydelightful settings offering ruralambience with the convenience ofchalet-rooms with fan/air-conditioningand hot shower (fridge and TV) in agarden setting near a central restaurant/reception area. In the high season —November through April — advancebooking is highly recommended, if nota must for the best places both in thecountry and the city.

Credit cards are usually onlyaccepted by larger resort/hotels —

travel with enough cash baht to seeyou to the next ATM (at banks in maindistrict towns — amphoe). Good hotelrooms in provincial cities usually cost1000-1999 baht ( ), depending onseason. 2000 Baht up

1000-1999 500-999 Baht less than 500 Baht

NATIONAL PARKS

Visitor centres at park HQs usuallyhave brochures with maps detailingsights, though English language versionsmay not always be available. There areboard maps and walking trails areusually well-marked.

Park accommodation can bespartan, and is not well set up for walk-in trade unless you bring your owntent and food. Prior reservation fromthe Forestry Department in Bangkokis essential in the season. Tel: (0) 25797223, (0) 2579 5734, (0) 2561 4292-4ext. 724&725.

From August 2000 all foreigners arebeing charged 200 Bt./head entrancefee, and this fee is being rigorouslyapplied at most national parks alongthe route in this guide. Hitherto chargeswere 40-50 Bt./vehicle and 20 Bt./head,as it is for Thai citizens.

FALLING ROCKS(LAND SLIDE)

STEEP HILL

STOP (POLICE)CHECK

SLIPPERY ROAD

STOP NO PASSING

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