Boutique Beauty in Sri Lanka

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  • 7/28/2019 Boutique Beauty in Sri Lanka

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    Boutique Beautyin Sri Lanka

    exoticAsia

    Cinnamon and cashew nuts, mango and banana trees, lushgreen tea estates and golden coast its easy to wax

    lyrical about Sri Lanka. This island evokes images of tea

    plantations, glorious beaches and the bygone era of the

    British Raj. Im a hopeless romantic for tales of colonial Asia, which

    Ive always been enthralled with. While I know theres so much more

    to this country, my dreams still explore these stories.

    A Colourful SceneIt was late morning when I arrived, and as I travelled through the

    streets of Colombo, tuk tuks zipped past and children waved or

    gathered for games of cricket in the side streets. People in suits,

    saris and saffron robes strolled by, sheltering under colourful

    umbrellas from the already hot sun.

    Travelling south from the capital, I passed ramshackle villages,

    farmland, rice paddies and muscular water buffalo. The further Igot from the city, the greener and more lush it became as the road

    weaved between rolling hills while palm trees stretched up into the

    sky and rivers flowed to the nearby Indian Ocean.

    Rolling further south along the coastal road, I looked out at the

    waves crashing against a narrow sandy shore, mere feet from

    the road, while the early afternoon light glimmered on the waters

    surface.

    Kahanda Kanda Hill Top Tea EsaeA few kilometres from Galle, above the small village of Kahanda

    along a narrow red-earth street alive with fruit sellers, tuk tuks and

    mopeds you ascend a steep road running through a tea estate.

    On top of the hill the boutique hotel Kahanda Kanda has sweeping

    views of the lush surroundings.

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    In Sri Lanka, Lauren Hillsayed a our bouique hoels

    ha combine luxury and

    style wih local experienceand mouh-waering cuisine.Each makes a saemen oheir conscieniousness or

    he environmen and helocal community. They reveal

    diferen sides o Sri Lankarom he capial Colombo o he

    sulry souh coas.

    English interior designer George Cooper cameto Sri Lanka in 1999 spurred by his curiosity to

    visit a tea estate that had been owned by his great

    grandfather. He came across the property that is

    now the location for this hotel that continues to be a

    working tea plantation. From this vantage point the

    hotel has views of the tea estate, Koggala Lake and

    the wild jungle beyond.

    Enjoy the LuxuryYou can take in the view from the infinity pool, which

    is alongside the open-sided living and dining pavilions,

    and backed by high walls the colour of Sri Lankan

    monks robes.

    The pavilions are surrounded by sprawling gardens

    PHOTOS Lauren HiLL

    a ft-sll Gll

    Colombo

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    of frangipani, mango, cashew and coconut trees, in which

    eight bedroom pavilions are privately situated; each

    decorated in a unique style.

    I stayed in the opulent Garden Suite, filled with antique

    and contemporary furniture and paintings. The veranda

    looks onto the garden, benefiting from a breeze that blows

    across the hills, in the shade of trees creating dappled

    sunlight. Here there is nothing but the sound of bird-song

    and leaves rustling in the breeze.

    The FoodKahanda Kanda uses locally grown organic ingredients to

    create their fusion of Sri Lankan and Thai cuisine. Fresh

    spices, chilli and tamarind; cashews, coconuts and fruit

    such as mango and papaya are taken from the trees,

    and fresh seafood are used.

    The chef combines fresh spices and coconut milk for an

    array of curries. My favourites included the creamy cashew

    nut curry, sticky-sweet pineapple curry and any that used

    the days fresh fish. You can savour these in the gorgeously

    candle-lit outdoor pavilion as insects chirp and music lulls

    the starry night.

    Breakfast, also enjoyed in the outdoor pavilion or on your

    own veranda, includes Western options as well as typical

    Sri Lankan hoppers.

    ExperienceGuided bike tours take you along winding paths through

    tea plantations, past paddy fields, down country roads and

    through villages while the local guide informs about the

    flora and fauna along the way. The tour finishes at Wijaya

    Beach, which after riding through country lanes is an

    Th fty pool tKhd Kd

    Bkfst tKhd Kd

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    unexpected sight of endless golden sand and graceful palm

    trees that lean gently over the limpid blue sea. The beach

    bar is an ideal spot to sit back and watch the waves come

    rolling in.

    Kahanda Kanda has a spa, gym, home cinema and can

    arrange a variety of activities and excursions, including

    tours of Handunugoda Tea Estate, giving you the

    opportunity to see how the tea is harvested and treated.

    Then you can try their specialty teas.

    EthosKahanda Kanda supports local community projects,

    Tittagalla Sunday School Project for the construction

    and development of a Sunday School for the surrounding

    villages and Talathaduwa Monastery Koggala Island

    Sacred Grove Carbon Project in which they endeavour to

    protect the local ecosystem and support the

    local community.

    Casa Colombo City EscapeCasa Colombo is a boutique urban hotel that

    stands out for its exceptional modern design.

    The old, white, colonial houses interior has

    been transformed by designer and hotelierLalin Jinasena. Today, it is a beautiful renovation

    of a 200-year-old Moorish mansion with

    contemporary rooms that still have original

    features gracefully incorporated. Lalin designed

    each room using Sri Lankan materials to create

    a dcor that is unique to Casa Colombo. Each

    of the 12 expansive suites are designed with

    their own individual look and have all the

    technology and amenities you could ask for.

    Manager Willem Fokkenrood explains, The

    design makes people feel excited and makes

    them smile, but its almost casa because this is

    a home environment.

    The FoodSri Lankan chef, Sharif Karim, creates simple honest dishes

    that are influenced by his time in The Maldives and Middle

    East. One favourite is the slow-roast beef that is a reminder

    of European cuisine, but which uses cinnamon and other Sri

    Lankan spices. In the restaurant, HVN, the menu consists

    of typical Sri Lankan dishes and European cuisine with an

    Eastern influence. The Zaza Bar has a tapas menu.

    ExperienceCasa Colombo is an ideal base for Colombo exploration.

    Willem insisted I take a tuk tuk and jump out whenever I

    saw anything that looked interesting, telling me that this is

    the best way to discover Colombo. The Fort is a colonial

    area that was built by the Portuguese and the Dutch, while

    the British contributed the cinnamon gardens along with

    many of the museums and

    Town Hall. Casa Colombo

    can arrange walking tours

    with Colombo City Walks

    if youd like a guide. After

    dark, make your way

    to Zaza Bar if youre in

    the mood for tapas andcocktails and upbeat

    music that goes late into

    the night.

    EthosCasa Colombo hires local

    staff, works with local

    producers and supports

    smaller traders. The hotel

    donates money to social

    clubs and a charity that

    provides books for schools

    in Colombo.

    Cs Colombo

    Cs

    Colombo

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    Talalla Retreat Beachside SeclusionFurther along the south coast, a short drive from Matara, is the

    remote beach Talalla. Yogis and surfers come for the secluded

    boutique resort Talalla Retreat.

    Inspired by the yoga and surfing retreats of Bali, the Australian

    owner began to build his own resort in Talalla. The plans were put on

    hold when the Tsunami hit Sri Lanka, but before continuing with his

    project, he returned to Australia to raise funds to provide the local

    village with fishing boats and community buildings.

    A Serene SessionAfter the fundraising work on the resort was resumed and finally

    finished. Now the retreat consists of tropical, leafy-green gardens

    centred around a 20m cool-blue swimming pool. The garden is over

    looked over by an open-sided restaurant, a yoga pavilion, a spa and

    eight villas, each with four rooms and their own balcony or veranda.

    From the moment you wakeup you are greeted with bird

    song, the sea breeze and

    monkeys crashing through the

    trees. After a yoga session of

    stretching and meditation you

    can revive with a coffee and

    breakfast before lying in the

    shade of trees, taking a dip in

    the pool or walking along the

    deserted beach as the calm

    water laps against the sandy

    shore.

    The FoodAll of the food at Talalla Retreat

    is sourced locally. They use Sri

    Lankan tea and coffee, locally

    caught seafood and organic

    fruit and vegetables from the

    area. The local chefs cook up traditional Sri Lankan curries, but also

    provide Western and South East Asian cuisine.

    At breakfast, lunch and dinner there is a hearty buffet of freshly

    cooked Sri Lankan and Western food, including plenty of fresh

    seafood.

    ExperienceThe resident yoga instructor leads yoga classes each morning and

    afternoon, as well as regular yoga retreats. Talalla Surf Camp is

    run out of the hotel to take surfers to the local beaches, suiting the

    surfers needs and experience.

    Since May 2012, health retreats have also been featured, with

    the expertise of a physiotherapist and a nutritionist. You can go

    snorkelling from Talalla beach and if youre lucky, you can catch the

    whale-watching season

    Ethos

    As well as fundraising post Tsunami, the retreat supports thecommunity by employing people from the surrounding villages and

    sourcing all of their food locally.

    The Sun House Hisoric Coasal TownThis eight-roomed boutique hotel exemplifies colonial chic dating

    back to the 1860s when it was home to a Scottish cinnamon

    merchant. In recent years it has been renovated by hotelier Geoffrey

    Dobbs. The new dcor combines colonial elegance with modern

    comfort and exudes utter sophistication.

    Hours could be wiled away exploring the living and dining areas

    that are stuffed with antiques, books, paintings and ornaments

    collected by Geoffrey Dobbs. The hotels sun house looks out on the

    frangipani garden with its red brick path leading to the pool. Cosy

    Dicks Bar looks out on the mango garden that has a view of Galle

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    Khd Kd

    www.kahandakanda.com

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    www.talallaretreat.com

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    thesunhouse.com

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    www.casacolombo.com

    Travel Within Sri Lanka

    Before travelling to Sri Lanka I was advised to arrangea driver to take me between destinations. This is the

    most convenient way to get around Sri Lanka and can

    easily be arranged through most hotels.

    However, its also worth taking a train for the

    significant price difference and the sheer experience

    of train travel through the countrys scenic landscape.

    On the train from Galle to Colombo, the old-red train

    clattered along palm-lined tracks, rushing by emerald

    green hills, dusty villages and along the coast where I

    looked out at the gloriously blue sea.

    Fans whirred furiously overhead and local music

    played over the tannoy. Passengers dozed in the

    heat, or leaned out the open windows. As I took

    in this exhilarating scene, I was reminded that

    sometimes the journey itself can be one of the most

    memorable travel experiences.

    harbour. Both gardens are havens for

    wildlife, so bird song is the soundtrack

    during breakfast.

    The FoodThe Sun House is famous for its

    outstanding cuisine and has been

    celebrated as the best fine dining in

    Sri Lanka, particularly since Rick Stein

    stayed at The Sun House to cook withthe chef, while filming his Far Eastern

    Odyssey series.

    All the spices, fruit and vegetables

    are locally grown and the fish is the

    days fresh catch from the local

    market. The restaurant is primarily a

    fish restaurant with Sri Lankan curry

    night each Sunday. Dicks Bar offers

    a menu of lighter meals and signature

    cocktails that you might want to enjoy

    as a sundowner.

    ExperienceFrom its hill-top location along a leafy

    street of Galle, it is just a five-minute

    stroll to Galles historic fort, the Galle

    coast and the local fish, fruit and spice

    sellers. During the hottest hours of

    the day keep cool in the cafs around

    Galle Fort.

    With an invigorating wind blowing

    inland, the sea-wall is landmarked by

    its white lighthouse and Flag Rock,

    a cliff-top look-out, where at duskpeople wander through the long grass

    to gather before the pink glow of

    sunset. The Sun House is also a good

    base for exploring tea plantations,

    beaches and national parks along the

    south coast.

    EthosThe charity Adopt Sri Lanka, for

    childrens education particularly, was

    founded by Geoffrey Dobbs. The Sun

    House also supports Children in Crisis

    and aims to be ecologically minded, as

    well as supporting the community.

    Th S Hos

    Th S Hos Dg