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 K  A  L  I   M A  N T  A  N © Lonely Planet Publications  Kalimantan is one of the world’s last, vast wilderness areas, a symphony of natural beauty and indigenous cultures. Covering two-thirds of Borneo in four provinces, Kalimantan showcases countless natural wonders. It’s the last refuge for most of the world’s wild orangutans, and home to ancient civilisations, including Dayak tribes that selectively embrace the 21st century, struggling to balance modernity with tradition. While roads are improving, the best attractions remain tied to Kalimantan’s waterways. River boats up the mighty, mysterious Sungai Mahakam lead to rainforests and longhouse villages. Simpler craft with put-put engines reminiscent of cinema’s the African Queen reveal the great apes and vibrant jungle of Tanjung Puting National Park. Narrow canoes call on Banjarmasin’s water villages and floating markets. Off the east coast, amid some of the world’s best diving, Pulau Derawan preserves bygone times, where easy smiles remain the openly exchanged currency.  There is a dark side to Kal imantan, too. Ongoing destruction, from logging and intent ional forest fires, plus energy extraction, continues to reduce the areas where these natural at- tractions thrive. This cloud merely underscores that there will never be a better time to visit Kalimantan than right now.  Time is running out: don’t miss the boat. Kalimantan  POPULATION: 12,223,300  AREA: 558,266 SQ KM HIGHLIGHTS  Chugging up Sungai Sekonyer by klotok  (canoe with water-pump motor) to see orangutans in Tanjung Puting National Park (p253), sleeping on deck with cicadas singing lullabies and gib- bons’ whoops as a morning alarm   Flying underwater with mantas off Pulau Derawan ( p284), fishing for dinner on the return trip, returning in time for a sunset volleyball game   Nailing breakfast at a floating market and trading high-fives at wash time in the water- ways of Banjarmasin ( p260)  Seeking Dayak longhouse traditions of intricate tattoos and drive-through earlobes above the rapids of Sungai Mahakam ( p277) or in Kapuas Hulu ( p244)   Swinging across bamboo bridges ov er river valleys in breathtaking Pegunungan Mera- tus ( p267), wrapping up with a river raft to hot springs Meratus Pegunungan Hulu Kapuas  Mahakam Sungai Banjarmasin Derawan Pulau National Park Tanjung Puting 235

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 K  A  L  I   M 

A  N T  A  

© Lonely Planet Publications

 Kalimantan is one of the world’s last, vast wilderness areas, a symphony of natural beauty

and indigenous cultures.

Covering two-thirds of Borneo in four provinces, Kalimantan showcases countless natural

wonders. It’s the last refuge for most of the world’s wild orangutans, and home to ancient

civilisations, including Dayak tribes that selectively embrace the 21st century, struggling to

balance modernity with tradition.

While roads are improving, the best attractions remain tied to Kalimantan’s waterways.River boats up the mighty, mysterious Sungai Mahakam lead to rainforests and longhouse

villages. Simpler craft with put-put engines reminiscent of cinema’s the African Queen  reveal

the great apes and vibrant jungle of Tanjung Puting National Park. Narrow canoes call on

Banjarmasin’s water villages and floating markets. Off the east coast, amid some of the

world’s best diving, Pulau Derawan preserves bygone times, where easy smiles remain the

openly exchanged currency.

 There is a dark side to Kal imantan, too. Ongoing destruction, from logging and intentional

forest fires, plus energy extraction, continues to reduce the areas where these natural at-

tractions thrive. This cloud merely underscores that there will never be a better time to visit

Kalimantan than right now.

 Time is running out: don’t miss the boat.

Kalimantan

  POPULATION: 12,223,300   AREA: 558,266 SQ KM

HIGHLIGHTS

  Chugging up Sungai Sekonyer by klotok  (canoe with water-pump motor) to see orangutans in

Tanjung Puting National Park (p253), sleeping on deck with cicadas singing lullabies and gib-

bons’ whoops as a morning alarm

   Flying underwater with mantas off Pulau Derawan (p284), fishing for

dinner on the return trip, returning in time for a sunset volleyball game

   Nailing breakfast at a floating market and

trading high-fives at wash time in the water-

ways of Banjarmasin (p260)

  Seeking Dayak longhouse traditions of

intricate tattoos and drive-through earlobes

above the rapids of Sungai Mahakam (p277)

or in Kapuas Hulu (p244)

   Swinging across bamboo bridges over river

valleys in breathtaking Pegunungan Mera-

tus (p267), wrapping up with a river raft to

hot springs

MeratusPegunungan

HuluKapuas   Mahakam

Sungai

Banjarmasin

DerawanPulau

National ParkTanjung Puting

235

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