Bordeaux Confidential

BORDEAUX CONFIDENTIAL

BBOORRDDEEAAUUXX CCOONNFFIIDDEENNTTIIAALL The story so far ... If you’re into wine, no matter where you turn – newspapers, radio, TV or the internet – you can’t help but bump into Bordeaux. Over the years, critics have lavished praise and plaudits upon it, celebrating the glorious wines of the region like no other. It’s simply the most famous wine region on the planet – the perfect model for up and coming regions around the world to follow. Or is it? Scratch the surface of Bordeaux and you quickly find not all is as it seems. Beneath the glitz and glamour of a small, elite cartel of 50 Grand Cru estates and their fairytale Châteaux, lies an industry in some turmoil. Strangled by the Bordelais royalty and under pressure from their counterparts in the New World, there are close on 10000 producers gasping for air. Now it’s true to say that there is a lot of bad wine made in Bordeaux - less now than in the past - but nevertheless there’s a swathe of producers whose output deserves to be consigned to the history books. In between the extremes of the glittering stars and the down and outs though there is sizeable, important seam of forward-thinking producers who are making stylish, fresh, versatile and appetizing wines that deserve proper recognition. Bordeaux Confidential is the story of eight such producers – the story the elite properties don’t want you to hear. It’s a story of hard work over privilege and the love of wine over the love of money. Moreover it’s the story of eight wonderful properties, the amazing people behind the scenes and their fantastic unknown wines. It’s a story that needs to be told. After all great quality, affordable Claret, with history and a unique sense of place, is one of life’s most thrilling drinking experiences.

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Tasting Note Background Information

Well-structured Bordeaux with berry fruit and a touch of graphite on the nose. It’s lovely and soft, with fresh fruit and a touch of spice on the palate, as well as excellent clarity. Medium bodied, smooth and well-balanced with fine tannins and a herbaceous note on the finish. No oak or malo-lactic fermentation means that the freshness and style of the wine shines through. We don’t know quite how they do it, but we’re glad they do …

Region: AC Bordeaux

Vintage: 2009

Grape: Merlot (67%) Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) Cabernet Franc (15%)

Remarks: There is an awful lot of mediocre ‘generic’ Bordeaux out there, but this is an exception to the rule. A wine to tempt the most jaded palate, this is not too demanding or complex, just fresh, inviting and easy to drink with grilled meat and soft cheeses. 2009 was a particularly fine vintage in Bordeaux – and in a region subject to the vagaries of climate, that means lovely ripe fruit and a quality that owes much to the experience and skill of the winemaker. We’ll raise our glass to that!

Price: Code Name: BDX186 Case Size: 6x75cl

CCOONNFFIIDDEENNTTIIAALL Subject: Château Jaumard AC Bordeaux 2009

History: Proprietor: Julie Walker Age of vines: 20 years Hectares under vine – 17.0 The vineyard was founded in Saint Pey de Castets in the 1940s by the current owner’s grandfather. Soils are part gravel and part clay-limestone. Traditional temperature-controlled fermentation and 12 months ageing in vat. No oak. Gravel and clay-limestone soils yield wines with typical gravelly tones. Soft red berry fruit and soft tannins are the characteristics of this high quality entry-level Bordeaux. It really is (almost) too good to be true!



Aromas are powerful and fruity, with a touch of mint and herb (or fir and spruce from the highly-tuned olfactory receptors of our in-house Scots expert). A palate that shows a wealth of ripe, blue-ish fruit, with a generous graphite quality underneath. The wine is medium-bodied with a delightful fresh acidity and purity, plus ripe tannins and complex dark fruit flavours. The finish is concentrated, long and warm. For sharing with close friends only…

Region: Côtes de Blaye

Vintage: 2008

Grape: Merlot (90%) Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) Cabernet Franc (2%)

Remarks: This wine illustrates the true quality of lesser-known appellations of Bordeaux. There may be no Grand Crus Classés in the banlieu, but the terroir still yields wines that are very much of the region, made in traditional style with a modern twist, a commercial eye, fierce pride and lots of love and care – and all at a very reasonable price. Confidentially, what’s not to like about Bordeaux?


CCOONNFFIIDDEENNTTIIAALL Subject: Château Chamaille 1er Côtes de Blaye 2008

History: Age of vines: 20 years Hectares under vine – 20.0 Traditional temperature-controlled fermentation and ageing in large oak vats. Premier Côtes de Blaye is the name for the historic winegrowing area situated to the north east of the Bordeaux region. The vineyard is located at Saint Cristoly de Blaye on clay-limestone slopes. Wines from this region tend to have considerably more personality than regular Bordeaux – the result, perhaps, of local pride - and can offer some of Bordeaux’s best wine value. Another closely-guarded secret is out!



Elegant, with real Canon Fronsac minerality. A lovely inky nose with a touch of graphite, but also a hint of florality. Clean, minerally, fresh and pure, with fresh, black cherry fruit. An intriguing wine with a hint of spice from maturation in oak, plus lovely balance and approachable, well-integrated tannins. Another wine that performs well above its price tag – a most elegant glass of wine. How they manage it is a total mystery…

Region: Canon Fronsac

Vintage: 2009

Grape: Merlot (70%) Cabernet Franc (20%) Cabernet Sauvignon (10%)

Remarks: Lutte raisonnée means quite literally ‘reasoned struggle’ – making the best possible wine without overworking the soil or employing too many chemicals. We think that Château Barrabaque succeeds magnificently in producing a wine that is very much of its place, with absolute purity of regional character. Mature vine fruit (35 years), close attention to detail in the vineyard and careful winemaking result in a wine with real personality and style.

Price: Code Name: BDX 182 Case Size: 6x75cl

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Subject: Château Barrabaque « Cuvée Antoine » 2009

History: Established - 1747 Hectares under vine – 9.0 The Estate is located in Fronsac. Dating back to 1747, it has been run by the Noel family since 1936. The owners follow the eco-friendly policy of integrated agriculture (lutte raisonnée). The vineyard is planted on chalky clay, on a south facing hillside, with silica-clay at the base – also south facing for optimum ripeness. The wine spends 15 to 18 months in oak, of which 40% is new. A member of Le Cercle de Rive Droite, an organisation representing 138 Châteaux formed in 2008 to promote the quality and ethnicity of the area, and also of the Association of Independent Vignerons, the Château maintains great respect for the terroir and the tradition of this glorious region. Don’t tell everyone or there won’t be any left!



Real Bordeaux quality here. The wine has a most attractive nose of black cherries. Lifted and pretty, there is less obvious minerality and more richness and depth. A structured palate, with generous cherry and raspberry fruit, (flat) ripe tannins and a touch of vanilla and spice on the finish. Beautifully balanced Verdict: this is a serious wine with depth and complexity - and a ridiculously modest price tag. A wine with absolutely nothing to be modest about…

Region: Montagne Saint Emilion

Vintage: 2009

Grape: Merlot (75%) Cabernet Franc (20%) Cabernet Sauvignon (5%)

Remarks: Bruno and Sarah sit down at least once a month with their family and consultant winemaker to taste their wine – such is their dedication to quality. In the Bordelais tradition, this is a wine to drink with food: grilled red meat with the youthful wine, red meat and game in sauce or ripe Brie with the mature wine. It’s now an open secret!


CCOONNFFIIDDEENNTTIIAALL Subject: Château Haut Bonneau, Montagne Saint Emilion 2009

History: Established: 1822 Hectares under vine – 11.0 Specific vineyard area – 3 ha. Vines were first planted at the property in 1822. After several changes of hands, the property was acquired in the late 1960s by M. Maurice Marchand, who developed the estate and planted a selection of the best grape varieties, adapted to the soil of each parcel. Today the estate is run by Maurice Marchand’s son Bruno and his wife Sarah. The wine is made with the help of consultant oenologist Nadine Poulhazan. The vintage is mechanical, with hand-sorting of grapes. Wine making is traditional, and the wine spends 12 to 18 months in French oak.



Very genereous and beautifully soft. Soft, ripe, plump, attractive cherry fruit (Italian-style, with some floral tones) together with sandy, gravelly undertones characterise the distinctive aromas of this wine. Cherry fruit and a stemmy, ferny herbaceous quality on the palate. A touch warm and spicy, it has a good, solid structure and complexity, whilst retaining its soft, juicy character. Good supporting tannins and well-balanced acidity add up to a delicious wine, which, like the rest of the wines in our confidential portfolio, punches well above its weight!

Region: Côtes de Francs

Vintage: 2008

Grape: Merlot (85%) Cabernet Sauvignon (15%)

Remarks: George Thienpont purchased Château Puyguéraud, which dominates the whole Côtes de Francs appellation, in 1946. He planted the estate with cereals and farmed cattle until the 1970s, when he had a change of heart and re-planted the vineyards, producing his first vintage in 1983. It is now George’s son, Nicolas, who makes the wine at the six Châteaux that comprise the Thienpont holdings. It’s all relative! Quality, value and skilled winemaking from this successful and enterprising family.


CCOONNFFIIDDEENNTTIIAALL Subject: Château La Claverie Côtes de Francs 2008

History: Hectares under vine: 6.5 Age of Vines: Average 30 years Traditional temperature-controlled fermentation and ageing in large oak vats. The Côtes de Francs is the smallest of the Bordeaux appellations – 450 hectares – resembling an independent state and occupying the highest slopes of the Gironde to the east of Saint Emilion. It was created in 1967, and is very much a part of the Bordelais ‘family’, its wines having the precision of the best Bordeaux. Château La Claverie is the second label of Château Charmes-Godard, purchased from his father, George, by Nicolas Thienpont in 1988. The old vineyard is dominated by a tower built by the English during the 100 years war.



Supple and Stylish are the two words that spring to mind. The wine has lovely pure fruit in a crème de mûre sort of way and feels very relaxed and soft in the mouth. It’s also delightfully fresh and juicy, with blue/black fruits intermingling with subtle spice and a minerally, graphite note. It has lovely balance and the ripe tannins play a supporting rather than overpowering role. It bats well above its average - remarkable wine at the price. This is not supposed to happen, how do they do it?

Region: Haut Médoc (Northern St-Estèphe)

Vintage: 2009

Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) Merlot (50%)

Remarks: Stéphane Negrier is very un-Bordelais. Money isn’t a driving force for him or his family. It’s a life in harmony with the land they work which motivates them, often against the odds, to produce such great wine. The aforementioned Calon Segur for example - well that’s a different story. Their 2009, not yet in bottle let alone ready to drink, would barely give change from a £100 note. We rest our case.


CCOONNFFIIDDEENNTTIIAALL Subject: Château Croix du Trale 2009

History: Established - 1974 Hectares under vine – 12.2 Château Croix du Trale is a family owned and managed estate located in Saint-Seurin de Cadourne in Northern St-Estèphe, just a stone’s throw away from some rather famous properties – for example 3rd growth Ch Calon Segur. No Ferraris or private jets here though. Stéphane Negrier, his wife, father and two Children, Louie and Chloe do everything from vine through to bottle. The mature vineyards (25 years) are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot on the typically gravelly, clay soils of the region, indentical to Calon Segur in fact. Faultless, simple winemaking and meticulous care in the vineyards ensure that the beautiful grapes grown are turned into beautiful wine. If this gets out there could be trouble …



Deep, intense ruby-crimson in colour, with lovely ripe fruit – raspberries and strawberries - and a hint of prune on the nose. Classic gravelly complexity marks the aromas. With its lovely soft, sweet, ripe fruit and evident minerality, the wine is rich and full on the palate without being over the top. Tannins are ripe and smooth, and beautifully integrated, and the excellent balancing acidity make this wine one for laying down for up to 8 years – although it is perfectly approachable in youth. Put it away, discreetly, in the cellar or the cupboard under the stairs, and enjoy in a few years time. Or drink it now – with pleasure!

Region: Médoc

Vintage: 2008

Grape: Merlot (50%) Cabernet Sauvignon (50%)

Remarks: The Cru Bourgeois classification lists some of the high quality wines from the Left Bank Bordeaux Wine Regions that were not included in the 1855 Classification of Classed Growths, or Grands Crus Classés. The first Cru Bourgeois list was drawn up by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Chamber of Agriculture in 1932. Several revisions (and a complete annulment) later, a significantly modified version of the Cru Bourgeois system was reintroduced in 2010. Many wine writers agree that there is considerable overlap in quality between the Classed Growths and the Cru Bourgeois. Quietly, we concur.


CCOONNFFIIDDEENNTTIIAALL Subject: Château du Périer, Cru Bourgeois Médoc 2008

History: Established: 1889 Age of vines: Average 25 years Hectares under vine – 7 hectares Château du Périer was founded by Comte Henri du Périer du Larsan,. Deputy of Médoc from 1889 to 1906. Acquired by the Saintout family in 1989, the vineyards are planted on Garonne gravel and clay-limestone to the south-west of the village of Saint Laurent de Médoc. Bruno Saintout is another hard working winemaker whose objective is not fame and riches, but who nevertheless takes great pride in his award-winning wines. Château du Périer spends 12 to 16 months in oak barrels, of which up to a third are replaced each year.



A great example of modern, expressive Claret with intense ripe fruit on the nose, layered with notes of fresh vanillin and spice. The palate is full, structured and ripe, with fine tannins and a long finish. The 2009 Beaulieu is an attractive, immediate wine that will drink beautifully in youth. Opulent, approachable, highly concentrated and very modern in style. How do they do that?

Region: Bordeaux Supérieur

Vintage: 2009

Grapes: Merlot (60%) Cabernet Franc (30%) Cabernet Sauvignon (10%)

Remarks: Beaulieu receives lavish praise from many of the world’s most respected wine critics, indeed the 2009 was awarded 88-91 by the Wine Spectator. “Powerful nose of dark fruit, liquorice and toasty oak, aromas which one finds on the palate which is well structured, fruity with focused, ample tannins and good length. Much potential.” Guide Hubert 2011

Price: Code Name: BDX378 Case Size: (12x75cl)

CCOONNFFIIDDEENNTTIIAALL Subject: Château Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes 2009

History: Established: 1342 Hectares under vines: 20 hectares Guillaume de Tastes is a rarity in the Bordeaux hierarchy. A man that hasn’t let his title, nor 700 years of history, stop him from being a true down to earth vigneron with muddy wellies and a passion for unique terroir. Situated on the right bank of the Dordogne, his 20 ha of vines are planted on south facing slopes and tended under the supervision of legendary consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt. The man who has helped steer Domaine de Chevalier, La Mondotte and Smith-Haut-Lafitte into greatness, Derenoncourt recognises the understated potential of Beaulieu - an estate now considered the affordable hidden gem in the Bordeaux crown. As Robert Parker remarks, “this is one of Bordeaux’s finest run over-achievers”. High-density planting, low yields, traditional winemaking with ageing for 10 months on the fine lees in French oak barrels (25% new).

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Bordeaux Confidential