Book Proposal from Srijana

I Discover Love, Peace and Radical Simplicity in the Kingdom of Happiness

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Walking in the Footprints of the Enlightened Ones The Bhutan Travel Cookbook

Proposal Contents Book Concept . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Table of Contents. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Sample Chapters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 • Tshechu: Masked Dancers Invoke Ancient Gods . . . . . 6 • Blessings from the Horse’s Head Monastery . . . . . . 21 • Family Puja on the Farm, an Annual Blessing . . . . . . 33

Target Market for the Book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Marketing the Book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Comparative Titles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 About Srijana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

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Book Concept Walking in the Footprints of the Enlightened Ones,

A Bhutan Travel Cookbook Walking in the Footprints of the Enlightened Ones, is an adventure into the soul of Bhutan, a window into the original Shangri-La, a series of true stories about how I found balance and spirituality. My adventures include falling in love with a Lama, being forced out of my home in the US, and moving to Bhutan to find the ancient Eastern mind largely unaltered by time. This is a multi-sensory travel guide with stunning images and descriptions that share intimate first-hand experience of Bhutan's cultural traditions, breathtaking landscapes, and authentic food flavors. A different sort of travel guide, the book follows the footprints of saints whose raw, sublime energy still lingers in the mountain caves, where Monks and Lamas enact battles of prehistoric gods between good and evil. Where Bhutanese red rice and mountain spices lend nourishing flavor to every meal. This book won’t compete with the usual tiny-print travel guides. Instead it’s an easy-to-read resource of beauty and cultural insight to treasure. Weaving stories with photos and recipes, I’d like to share how unique synchronicities led to falling in love with a Lama via Facebook Messenger, to finally meeting up with him, and serendipitously discovering it is possible to find love on the opposite side of the world. I Discover the Eastern mind As I relaxed and slid deeper in my new Bhutanese life, I sensed a refreshing difference between our Western way of thinking and the Eastern mind. Describe it superficially as Western linear logic, isolated parts, and impatience vs. Eastern cyclical introspection and holistic wisdom. However our present-day cultural reality is wondrously more complex. My goal in this book: a fusion of East and West I wish to bridge the unspoken chasm between East and West by moving beyond words. I'd like to do it with stories, photographs and food, a multi-media window into the Eastern mind, allowing readers to step into a new version of themselves, refreshed with a different perspective. A travel book with recipes. I’d like people to see it as a must-have guide to meditate on Bhutan, A tasting with all the senses, a non-verbal journey through food, photos, stories, and ritual, the book captures all the senses in a transmission that bypasses the thinking mind, using stories, photos, and flavors. Bhutan, guardian of Tibetan Buddhism As the legacy of ancient Tibet fades, the world looks to the once-isolated kingdom of Bhutan, where roots of Vajrayana Buddhism are still strong. A window into another time, this tiny kingdom between India and China, has 70% forested landscape, the most oxygen-rich, air on the planet, and is the only carbon-negative country in the world. Bhutan’s Fourth King surprised the world in 1972, announcing his new government philosophy, Gross National Happiness, as an alternative to Gross National Product. His forward-thinking policy of high-quality low-volume tourism, protects Bhutan’s pristine landscapes, fostering sustainable economic growth.

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The world is curious about Bhutan. The Kingdom has become a haven for celebrities seeking calm, an original destination for culture enthusiasts, an immaculate place for trekkers and those seeking untouched landscapes on their bucket list. How did this tiny Buddhist country captivate and challenge the world? Perhaps the West has something to learn from Bhutan. When I married Lama Dungtsho and moved to Bhutan, I discovered new roots of personal strength and safety. My journey has been a gradual discovery of self-acceptance and peace. This book is an exploration to find the source of our personal strength. How can humanity build a sense of unity in the face of economic power, ignorance, and selfishness that we all face? My marriage to Lama Dungtsho is alive and happy. Yes, but thanks only to my husband’s placid Buddhist equanimity and patience. Who knows? Maybe we were linked long ago. It’s no joke when people say all 800,000 inhabitants of Bhutan are relatives. Maybe that’s why we both had to show our family trees to the High Court to get a Foreign Marriage Certificate! Well, we’re definitely not close relatives. My skin is too white, and I laugh too much. This book has no comparable titles. I find a few Bhutan travel books, even fewer cookbooks. No one has put it altogether with photos, flavors, and stories, for an authentic inside view. Perhaps the biggest roadblock to cultural understanding is that we Westerners observe but cannot see. We hold fast to our cell phones and zoom lenses, appreciating colorful costumes and endearing traditions from a safe distance, without having to risk totally jumping in. We come for a brief visit, pay our money and walk away unscathed. This book will bridge that chasm, by inviting people to step into intimate scenes of real honesty and integrity. I bring to the table decades of experience in food and cookbook writing. Bhutan’s dishes may seem tediously plain on the surface, yet the flavors are vibrant and nourishing with simplicity and honesty. I’d like to breathe life into Bhutanese cuisine for Westerners. I'm a natural foods fanatic. I can do this. After writing two successful cookbooks, my website JanesHealthyKitchen.com recently won the prestigious CV Magazine award for the “Most Innovative Healthy Food and Lifestyle Blog in North America”. Accompanied by eye-popping photographs, I’m living proof that it is possible to introduce easy, exotic recipes that will be new flavors for Westerners. My Bhutanese family is excited about helping me test recipes. Although I have photography in my blood and my father was an accomplished photographer- traveler with the rare ability to communicate and sustain the beauty of deep cultural roots from distant times, I will hire and direct a professional photographer to travel Bhutan for this book. “Asian Cuisine” has recently been declared one of the top food trends for 2019. The book’s target market includes people of all ages curious about Asian recipes, travel, healthy foods, clean lifestyles, and all those who embrace foods free of processed, industrial ingredients. This book will be a unique resource for visitors to Bhutan, especially those who come with our company, White Tiger Bhutan Tours. Please help me bring this nourishing book to the world.

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Table of Contents: Walking in the Footprints of the Enlightened Ones

1. Introduction: I Step into the Original Shangri-La 2. An Inner Odyssey Comes to Life

o Forced Out of my Home in USA, I take a Risk o I Arrive in Paro, Riverside Picnic, Matrimonial Suite o But You Can’t Get a Foreign Marriage Certificate in Bhutan o I Speak in Dzongkha to the Bhutan High Court o Radical Simplicity - My New Married Life in the Kingdom of Happiness

3. Tshechu: Colorful Masked Dancers Invoke Ancient Gods o Paro Tchechu, Thimphu Tshechu, Jambay Lhakhang Drup, Punakha Drubchen

4. Blessings from the Horse’s Head Monastery 5. Family Puja on the Farm, a Buddhist Annual Blessing 6. Foods of Bhutan Then and Now - A Bhutanese Kitchen

o Falling in Love with Red Rice o More Chili Peppers, Please o I Learn to Make Butter and Cheese on the Family Farm o Bhutan Drives Out the British but Adopts Their Food

7. Buddhist Names that Predict Your Life Path 8. Camping and Evening Stone Bath in the River

o Vertical Stairway and the 3-Headed Statue that Terrifies Me 9. Culture Shock: The 21st Century Arrives in Bhutan

o Creating an English School in the Mountains 10. I Discover Perfect Equanimity of the Asian Mind

o Patient, Kind, Secretive, Enchanting 11. Powerful Temples and Dzongs to Visit

o Padmasambhava Meditation Caves o Taktsang Monastery: Tiger’s Nest is Real o Punakha Dzong, Masterpiece of Architecture, Storage of Sacred Relics

12. Visiting Bhutan - Don’t Miss These Places: o Hiking - Altitude challenges at 8000 – 10,000 feet o What to Pack, What to Leave o Practical Issues: Tourist Visa, Banking, Money Conversion o Landscapes, Regions, Cultures, Pristine Rivers

13. The Beloved Royal Family: Five Kings and a Sixth in the Making, o Why Does the King Wear a Raven Crown?

14. A Buddhist Sense of Balance and Sustainability o Vision and Intelligence in Modern Policy o Protection of Nature: Animals, Birds, Plants, Insects o Carbon Negative and Organic: Conservation in Government

15. Mysteries and Miracles: Folk Legends that Just Might be True o Divine Madman, Druk Dragons, Origin of the Takin, Yeti Abominal Snowmen

16. Index of 50 Recipes 17. Index of Buddhist Mantras

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Sample Chapters, Walking in the Footprints of the Enlightened Ones

1. Tshechu: Masked Dancers Invoke Ancient Gods There are secrets in the land. And deep memories exist in flesh and blood. Not sure where to begin my story. Before I can tell you about the Tshechu dancers, we have to go back to the 8th century to meet the famous Guru Rinpoche. Even his name conjures a link between Indian “Guru” and Tibetan “Rinpoche” traditions. Yes, he was both. Padmasambhava traveled far and wide, meditating in countless caves throughout Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan.

This man was a game-changer, a brilliant renegade wizard who came to Tibet and oversaw the translation of thousands of sacred texts from Sanskrit to Tibetan. He performed miracles and eloped with not one but two princesses. He cleared evil and infused the landscapes of Tibet and Bhutan with powerful blessings that still exist today. Maybe that’s why every dzong in Bhutan has a huge statue of him with burning eyes, long hair, a diamond-vajra scepter of compassionate love in his right hand and a skull-bowl of wisdom in his left. In short, don’t mess with this guy.

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Padmasambhava is said to have been born about 700 years after Christ in NW India. He traveled and studied with many great Indian masters and somehow learned wizardry to purify negative obstacles, making the way for new Tibetan Buddhism. Nowadays most of Bhutan's Buddhists follow his Drukpa Red Hat sect of the Kargyupa, or “Secret Oral” lineage of Tibetan Buddhism. Yep. Padmasambhava was a magician that Bhutan sorely needed. He came almost 1,000 years after Siddhartha, the popular Gautama Buddha, who lived in 500 BCE. But even before that, a long lineage of Buddhas, or “awakened ones”, lived and taught in the Himalayas. We could look even further back to the roots of Bön Buddhism in Tibet, where the “first known Buddha”, Tonpa Shenrab Miwoche, is said to have lived 18,000 years ago. But it seems the floods may have washed everything clean, and alas, we will never know. Human memory fades, as do all things impermanent. Perhaps the real memories lie in the rocks, bones, and the blood.

Buddhists never considered their practice to be a “religion”, but rather a personal journey of purification into the Truth, a study of Nature and universal Time. I suspect that when the term ‘Buddhism’ was coined by Western scholars in the 1830’s, it was after seeing huge statues, and assuming that the Buddha was worshipped as a God, instead of being just man who found a path to be free.

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Another major player in reviving deep cultural memories is the charismatic Fourth King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, who has played a crucial visionary role in expanding the Tshechu festivals. He believes that the foundation of unity and sovereignty is a strong cultural identity and shared link with cultural roots. He took the throne in 1974 upon his father’s death when he was only 19 years old. His great grandfather was Bhutan’s first king, Ugyen Wangchuck, a magnetic leader who came to power during a turbulent period of bitter internal feuding and British wars. But Ugyen Wangchuck didn’t fall for the imperialistic spell. He was smart. A few strategic battles ended in a peaceful arms-length treaty, and in 1907 the British walked out. They supported his throne and left Bhutan to be one of the only independent nations in Asia, and not beholden to the crown. Building Bhutan’s national awareness of their Buddhist cultural roots has been one of the many contributions of the Fourth King. But there’s more. He established two democratic houses of Parliament in a Constitutional Monarchy. He instituted national health services, safe drinking water and better nutrition, increasing life

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span, and founded the Royal Institute of Health Sciences. He introduced an unconventional tourism policy of “high-value, low-volume”, unique in the world, to invite and guide visitors through Bhutan’s cultural sites, protecting the economy and environment. He built a network of electricity to connect homes, constructed roads in impossible mountain terrain, and began a Bhutan-owned air service. He signed an ambitious hydropower project to sell waterpower to India, stabilizing Bhutan’s financial independence. Then after ruling 34 years, in 2006 he abdicated to his eldest son. I think probably he gets more work done behind the scenes. Gross National Happiness Surprises the World Perhaps the Fourth King’s most significant contribution was to introduce the unique philosophy of GNH, Gross National Happiness. A philosophy designed to balance spiritual and economic values, the term became instantly popular in 1972 when the Fourth King declared at the United Nations: “Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross Domestic Product.” He then developed a method to measure happiness by a questionnaire to a sampling of the population every year, with a statistical score that compares one year to the next. Happiness has been a core goal of Bhutan for four centuries. In fact, the concept has its roots in the Buddhist Legal Code of 1629 (Yes, 150 years before the 1776 US Declaration of Independence set forth unalienable rights to “Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness”). In 1629 Bhutan’s founding father declared:

“If the government cannot create happiness for its people, then there is no purpose for government to exist.” Zhabdrung Rinpoche, founding father of Bhutan

GNH, the Quintessential Buddhist Economic Policy, Consists of Four Pillars:

1. Sustainable and equitable socio-economic development. 2. Conservation of natural environment. 3. Preservation and promotion of culture including National identity, Religion,

Language, Literature, Dress, Art, Architecture, and Etiquette. 4. Good Governance.

Building a National Identity of Respect How can one inspire strength and unity in an ancient, pay-it-forward Buddhist culture? It takes good leadership to feed the deepest roots of well-being in people. A visionary wise ruler, the king has infused Bhutan’s identity with self-respect. Fostering ancient legendary dances strengthens non-verbal connections to the subconscious to build inner self-awareness, a pride of belonging that protects

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people. Otherwise lacking this level of visionary leadership, people are too vulnerable and easily succumb to the vast international invasion of technology, junk food, money, English, and Hollywood fantasy. I wonder: What does Bhutan understand that we don’t? What can the rest of the world learn from Bhutan?

Enlightened Tourism Tourism too much, too fast can rob a country of its traditions and dignity. On the other hand, gentle tourism can infuse respect while helping economically. The Fourth King’s “high-value, low-volume” tourist policy provides a middle-ground solution. He structured a tourism industry that fosters high-integrity tour operators that bring visitors to Bhutan for an all-inclusive minimum price of $250 per day in high season, a fee that’s comparable to any standard vacation in Maui or Milan. But even the best tourism policy can’t always build cultural understanding. Why is that? The biggest roadblock is that we Westerners observe but cannot see. We hold fast to our cell phones and zoom lenses, appreciating the colorful costumes and endearing traditions from a safe distance, without having to risk totally jumping in. Full immersion might mean giving up our personal space, enduring the same discomforts, accepting what comes, looking at a history of white domination, reaching into underlying assumptions and values of another culture. Nope, we think we can come for a brief visit, pay our money and walk away unscathed.

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But in my case, I was enthralled. I wanted more of the mysterious traditions, colors, and legends. This immersion in powerful invisible non-verbal threads

from the past shook me to the core and nourished a deep inner longing. Origin of the Tshechu Dance Festivals (pronounced TSHEH-chu) Legend has it that when the great saint Padmasambhava performed feats of magic and wizardry to protect Bhutan and its people from evil, his rites, mantras and dances involved taking on other identities. Thus he was able to perform miracles, in order to subjugate and transform opponents of Buddhism into loyal followers.

Padmasambhava is credited with having organized the very first Tshechu in the 8th century, consisting of a series of eight ritual dances. Over time, these dances have expanded and now come to illustrate different legends in the victory of good over evil, a powerful expression of Bhutan’s unique cultural and religious identity. Every monastery in Bhutan holds one Tshechu each year, where hundreds of Lamas and Monks enact ancient stories in animated sacred dances and songs. Tshechu means “10th day”, so each province holds their festival on the 10th day of their chosen month in honor of the birth of Padmasambhava. The Tshechu has become so important in each city, that everyone dresses up in their finest Kira or

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Gho to see, to be seen, to sing, dance, and receive blessings. It is believed that every Bhutanese person must attend at least one Tshechu every year to cleanse the spirit and live in harmony with the unseen world. Buddhism teaches that events don’t just “happen” out of nowhere. Although we may imagine ourselves to be independent, all events have roots in the past. This is the magic of life, where heroes and perpetrators are all connected, weaving like threads into patterns that determine our fate. Thus the Tshechu legends are real shared history. By strengthening the roots to memories, tribe, and family, the Tshechu is a gift to remember ancient roots, national identity and self-respect. People’s deep faith and devotion make the Tshechu festivals special occasions. Yes, the carnival excitement is palpable, but this is quite different from a ball game in the US where a crowd goes wild about a ball going into a goal. A Tshechu is an enactment of ancient shared memories that’s unique in the world. Tshechus are the fusion of religious festival and social bonding shared by people

of many remote villages. Bhutanese believe coming to a Tshechu blessing will purify them and help them live in harmony, health, and wellbeing.

Long before the Tshechu date and behind the scenes, Monks and Lamas are preparing in deep meditation, chanting, and dance practice. The Tshechu is a rich form of oral history, a tradition where the Bhutanese pass on values, mythology and spiritual beliefs through the dance dramas. Festivals are also a big family and social occasions. My new sisters and I all put on our best Kira’s with jewelry of coral, turquoise, and Dzi beads. We packed lunch in a traditional bamboo basket and stayed at the monastery all day. Seating is first-come, first serve. When we arrived at 10 am, parking was crowded, the monastery courtyard was packed with thousands of people, and more continued to arrive all day. Those who got the best seats must have been in line at the crack of dawn. That’s what I’ll do next year. The most popular Tshechus in Bhutan are:

• Paro Tshechu –March • Thimphu Tshechu - October • Jambay Lhakhang Tshechu - November • Punakha Drubchen and Tshechu- February • Ura Yakchoe - April

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Many of the Tshechu dances enact events from the life of Padmasambhava, to invoke protection, to illustrate the subjugation of demons and obstacles, and celebrate the victory of good over evil. Like a live theater, dancers act out stories such as the Dance of the Four Stags, The Three Kings, the Dances of the Lord of Death, and more. Modern jesters called “Atsaras” wander around creating mischief, performing short skits to disseminate health and social awareness messages. A Tshechu is a happy and necessary break from farm work, a time to celebrate, receive blessings and pray for happiness. “Monks and Lamas believe that through their dances enacting ancient legends,

they send blessings throughout the world to purify karmic debts and empower all beings to reach their highest destiny.”

My personal favorite is the Tungam Chham, Dance of the Terrifying Deities. This sacred scene acts out a ritual slaying of evil demi-gods, enemies of Buddhist path.

The so called “Terrifying Deities” wear the most lavish costumes - silk brocade skirts, tall boots, and frightening masks showing off long fangs and skulls. The scene portrays a ritual sacrifice where dancers represent evil “Asuras”, the demi-gods, who are encircled and captured in a box. The chief dancer stabs and kills them with a sacred dagger called a Phurba, thus saving the world from their evil deeds and at the same time delivering them into salvation. The hideous masked face of Dorji Dragpo “Fierce Thunderbolt”, is said to be the image that Guru Rinpoche assumed to subdue enemies of the path. His selfless victory eradicated the evil demons, leading to happiness and goodnss in the world.

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I was blown away by the display of finery worn by everyone at the Thimphu Tshechu. The women especially were decked out in brightly colored handwoven fabrics and jewelry that would cost thousands of dollars in a New York showroom. The Kira for women consists of a wrapped hand-woven skirt tied with a Kera or belt. A colorful silk blouse called Tego is worn with a silk jacket called a Wongu, with sleeves rolled together into a cuff. Women often wear large amounts of jewelry with the Kira, set. For formal occasions like Tshechu, women wear a narrow handwoven fringed sash over the left shoulder called a Rachu. The whole ensemble is stunning and Bhutanese women look elegant in their national dress. The men’s Gho is a knee length cloak that’s tied at the waist with a cloth belt called a Kera. A Gho has white cuffs that can be folded or pinned in place. Ghos come in a wide variety of handwoven patterns, often with plaid or striped designs. A handwoven Gho for a wedding or special occasion can be very expensive, costing in the thousands of dollars. For formal occasions, men wear a silk shawl called a Kabney, draped over the left shoulder and the right hip. It is compulsory for men to wear a Kabney when

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visiting monasteries, government offices and for formal occasions. The color of the Kabney indicates different professions or levels of government. In 1989, the fourth King enacted a law to require all Bhutanese men and women to wear the national dress for professional and government jobs, and formal events.

A Tradition of Intricate Handwoven Fabrics Bhutanese textiles are recognized worldwide for their amazing color combinations, sophisticated patterns, and intricate weaving techniques. The weavers, mostly women, are not only brilliant creators of beauty but also the inventresses of artistic skills that have been developed and taught for centuries. Bhutanese people take great pride in their national dress. The tradition has evolved through many generations and people work hard to respect it.

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A weaver may work 10 to 12 hours per day for over a year to produce a single textile piece. The technical skills of Bhutanese weaving are taught in a six-year course at Royal Thimphu College and The Royal Textile Academy.

I stopped to watch a wandering clown at the Thimphu Tshechu. “Beautiful white madame!” He yelled, motioning to me. “May you be blessed with a passionate husband and a dozen children.” Everyone laughed. These wacky monk “Atsaras” wander through the crowd like jesters, playing naughty pranks on people between dance events. Lusty chaps. See the wooden phallus around his neck? As the camera clicked someone chuckled “Nice couple.” Eccentric yet saintly, their only job is to challenge, poke fun, to find and uproot evil in the minds of mortals.

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Cabbage Momos with Spicy Ezey Sauce After a Tshechu or special occasion, momos are the #1 most loved dish. Originally from Tibet, they were called “mog mog” མོག་མོག meaning “steamed bread”. The popularity of momos has spread from Tibet through Bhutan, Nepal, India, and all of Asia. This recipe uses cabbage however you can invent your own favorite flavor. Other delicious fillings are chicken, meat, chili peppers, cheese, spinach, peas, potatoes, etc. Makes 24 momos. Ingredients:

• 24 Momo dough wrappers (See page XX for wrapper recipe) • 2 cups cabbage, finely chopped • 1 red onion, finely chopped • 1 ball datshi cheese, crumbled (1/2 cup) • 3 tablespoons melted butter • 1/4 teaspoon red chili powder • Salt to taste

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Instructions: 1. Place cabbage, onion, and cheese into a bowl. Add butter, salt to taste, and

mix well. 2. Place a tablespoon of the filling in the center of each wrapper. 3. Fold over and pinch-pleat the wrapper edges to seal in the filling. 4. Lightly coat a steamer with oil or cabbage leaves so the momos do not stick. 5. Arrange momos in the steamer so they do not touch. 6. Cover and steam over boiling water10-15 minutes or until done. 7. Serve with Ezey Sauce.

Ezey - Spicy Sauce for Momos Yep, this red-hot sauce is the real thing, and it tastes delicious with momos. You can also add optional ginger, onion, or dried chili peppers. Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup tomatoes, diced • 1/4 cup red onion, diced • 2 tablespoons dried red chili • 1/4 cup chopped cilantro • Dash of black “Thingey” pepper • Pinch of salt

Instructions: Mix all ingredients well with a mortar and pestle or a spoon. Serve with momos.

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2. Blessings From the Horse’s Head Monastery My sister Ghalem has arranged an invitation for a private tour of the Tango monastery near Thimphu. Her close family friend and school buddy is a Lama teaching there. This is also the dzong that my husband Lama Dungtsho graduated from, so I jumped at the chance to see it. Tango means Horse’s Head in Dzongkha. The monastery was named for a famous outcropping on a cliff that looks just like the head of a horse, really. It's a quiet day and fortunately there are no tour buses. The monastery sits at the very top of a steep mountain. The path winds slowly upward and takes about an hour. We start to walk up a winding zig-zag path, through a sumptuous forest of deep green plants of all varieties. My lungs feel refreshed, happily soaking up the oxygen-rich atmosphere and dense foliage typical of Bhutan landscapes.

I highly recommend this hike if for no other reason than to clear the brain of static. Three of us walk up the mountain together, Ghalem and our friend Tenzin the painter. They are both dressed in formal Kira and Gho, however since I’m exempt from this rule as a white-skinned Westerner, no one forewarned me of the significance of this day. If I’d known, I would have worn my Kira.

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After 20 minutes on the steep path, I start to get tired, so we stop at a few of the rustic resting places on the path. My friends patiently wait for me to catch my breath, although they aren’t tired at all. They flatter me saying I am very strong for an American. It’s embarrassing to hear. What are we? Physically weak and full of mental chatter? Yes, sadly this is true. My humiliation is only slightly over-shadowed by admiration for their physical strength, patience and acceptance. As we walk up, I feel my brain and body slowly infuse with clarity and well-being. Looking up, I see an ingenious system of pulleys through the branches. This obviously saves much time and effort carrying food and provisions up to the top.

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The Tango Monastery is one of Bhutan’s most significant religious sites. It overlooks the capital, and is a place where saints meditated in a network of caves known for miracles and favorable synchronicities. In the 17th century, a dzong was the administrative and religious center of large geographic area, to protect the culture, sacred relics, and records. Bhutan’s sovereignty has been challenged over the centuries, always unsuccessfully, both by local adversaries and Tibetan enemy invasions. A monastic fortress was designed to repel any attack. This building would have been extremely difficult to penetrate in its position on the rocks, with high walls impossible to scale, let alone ultra-steep stairways inside. We enter a courtyard and wait for our Lama friend. Inside is a gallery of photos showing a succession of famous leaders of the lineage through the centuries. To the left is a hallway of relics. I was curious what they might hold. The horse’s head cave has been a power meditation site since the 8th century, and the Tango Monastery was constructed here in the 12th century. Five hundred years later it was re-built by the famous Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye. Remember that name, as he became an important ruler of Bhutan. It is said that 8th century Guru Rinpoche Padmasambhava prophesies that a man named Tenzin would rebuild the horse’s head monastery and rule Bhutan for many years in peace. And so it came to pass, under his rule the country was said to enjoy many years of peace, happiness, and tranquility comparable to heaven. I didn’t connect the dots until later that day, when we met a Tulku, his fourth reincarnation in person. Our friend Lama Dorji Gyeltzin met us at the entry, and we began a five-minute walk to his tiny house. Lama Dorji is the nephew of the famous Geshe Gendün Rinchen Rinpoche, who ruled over all monastic affairs as the 69th “Je Khempo” of Bhutan. The Je Khempo is the highest religious position in Bhutan, considered a national treasure as holder of the sacred lineage. Only later did I connect the threads that my sister had introduced me to the young Lama’s mother and showed me the tiny meditation sanctuary near Thimphu where the master lived until his death in 1997. It is said that Geshe Gendün Rinchen Rinpoche died sitting straight up in meditation posture, and that his body remained flexible, showing no signs of decay. His remains are said to still show no signs of decay, now enthroned in a gold and silver ornate stupa in the Zhabdrung Chapel of Tashichö Dzong, Thimphu. His title Geshe means a high post graduate, something like a PhD in Buddhist philosophy, above which further learning is only beyond words and concepts.

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Our friend Tenzin is a gifted painter who has depicted many sacred scenes on the walls of Bhutan's monasteries. Here he shows off his Wheel of Life. Called a Kalachakra, it shows the realms of existence where you could be reborn in your next life, depending on your actions in this life. You definitely want to be reborn in one of the top realms, and the bottom three are to be avoided at all costs. The top realms are the Human Realm and the Realm of the Gods. The bottom left is the Animal Realm. The Hell Realm is at the very bottom, where the King

of Karma called Yama Dharmaraja holds a stick in his right hand and a mirror in his left, reflecting the actions back to its perpetrators. On the right is the Preta Realm of the hungry ghosts. I was instructed later by the children that hungry ghosts suffer from extreme hunger and thirst. Hungry ghosts have huge stomachs, but pinhole mouth's and necks so thin they cannot swallow so they are constantly hungry. This realm is for the greedy, jealous, and those unwilling to share their good fortune with others. Yep, stay away from this realm. Back to the horse’s head. Yes, the energy buzz is real. I am in a daze. A practicing Buddhist for decades, I feel a difference here, a deep simplicity, a happiness in these people that is not from thoughts. I begin to sense threads from the past. The experiences and events that occur in the present always have roots or threads from the past. Nothing occurs in by chance, disconnected from a network of past causes

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and effects. I was feeling a kind of convergence of many distant events into the present moment. These threads are always there, but now I felt them strongly. I wonder: What is this feeling? It's a little bit like a déjà vu experience but very vague. Lama Dorji’s tiny hut is located on perhaps the most coveted location in all of Bhutan with a stunning view. A mere five-minute’s walk from the monastery, this modest shack overlooks the entire Thimphu valley. Perched on the edge of a rocky hill, his residence consists of a tiny bedroom-sitting room, a meditation room you could barely lie down in, a tiny bathroom with the usual hole in the ground, and a spotless kitchen counter in the hall. His kitten was happy to see us, and incessant meowing indicated he was anxiously awaiting his daily bowl of rice.

We sat on the sitting room floor and drank Suja, or butter tea with Zow, or crispy rice. Our lunch menu was rice and traditional Noo Sha Paa, Dried beef with Cabbage, Peppers, and Cheese, prepared and packed by Ghalem.

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Noo Sha Paa, Dried beef with Cabbage, Peppers, and Cheese This is the dish my sister Ghalem brought for lunch at the Tango Monastery. Dried beef is a staple food all year round in Bhutan. One of the most popular traditional Bhutanese dishes, this is a satisfying meal, delicious with homemade cheese. Ingredients:

• 100 g. Shakam (dried beef), or 200 g fresh beef cut into strips • 3 Tablespoons mustard oil • 400 ml water • Salt to taste • 350 g. cabbage, sliced • 30 g. Fresh green chilis • 1/2 cup (1/2 ball) fresh cheese or farmer’s cheese

Instructions:

1. Cut the dried beef in long strips around 8-10 cm long and rinse. 2. Transfer into a pot, add oil, water, and salt. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. 3. Slice the cabbage and toss with the meat. Cooking for 10 minutes. 4. Halve the chilis lengthwise. Lower the flame, add to the pot. 5. Crumble the cheese into the pot. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. 6. Lower flame to simmer. Stir in 1-2 Tbsp of water if the cabbage is sticking

to the pot. Serve.

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I discovered that our friend Lama Dorji had completed his Buddhist studies at the doctoral level, and just recently finished his silent retreat of three years, three months, and three days, a requirement for Lamas who will be teaching. The silent retreat is known as “Losum Chog Sum”, meaning “three years and three faces”, and takes place under the guidance of the most accomplished Buddhist masters in Bhutan. Several hundred monks live and study at the Tango Monastery. The boys usually join the order between five and nine years of age. They learn to read “chhokey” a higher-level sacred language of Bhutan related to Tibetan and Dzongkha. The monks also study English. Daily life in the dzong is simple and rigorous. Monks begin their schedule with a wake-up call at 4 AM. They perform morning prayers in the sanctuary with prostrations and chanting. Chanting is followed by breakfast of rice, soup, and tea. After lunch they often work on hand-writing because penmanship in chhokey is very important. Some of the monks learn to play ritual musical instruments, and others learn how to make Torma, sacred offerings of colorfully painted rice flour. Dinner is at 5 PM, after which they perform evening prayers. From 7 to 10 PM they do evening studies and go to bed at 10 PM. Communal bathing and handwashing stations indicate cleanliness is highly regarded. There is no heat in the residence rooms, even in the dead of Bhutan winters, and the monks have very few personal possessions. This busy, peaceful lifestyle is enriched with higher knowledge, ancient sacred literature, history, and music. Monks are strictly forbidden to challenge their teacher, to steal, or to leave the premises without permission. Smoking, alcohol, and sexual activities are also prohibited. After lunch we took a stroll past a row of fenced-in prayer wheels toward the sanctuary, which was partly under renovation. We remove our shoes at the entrance. I step over the threshold as if stepping into a vast hall of infinite size where there is no floor and no ceiling. I feel my conceptual, thinking mind relaxing and melting away. We are not allowed to take photographs in the sanctuary, but I can tell you the statue of the Buddha is roughly three times my height. The first order of business is prostrations. We each do three prostrations facing the chair of the head monk. We then turn and do three prostrations toward the huge statue in front. Everything is very quiet and peaceful. I feel the familiar threads of historic events again and I am in a bit of a daze.

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Lama Dorji led us down a hallway toward the archives. I was thrilled! A private viewing of the relics! I had no idea what to expect. This is a series of rooms with thousands of ancient relics that belong in a museum, but it feels more like an old storage room. Breathlessly, we walked past hundreds of dusty artifacts, statues, sacred ritual instruments, photographs, and weapons of a bygone age. This was like touring an attic filled with priceless and ancient relics, a thousand years old, including rocks containing clear footprints of saints that had meditated in the horse’s head caves. Sadly, no photographs were permitted.

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There was a buzz of intense discussion in Dzongkha as we discovered a famous Tulku was in residence at the monastery today. My sister requested an audience with him, and a few minutes later received notice that we would be able to meet him and receive his blessing. Gyelse Jigme Tenzin Wangpo Rinpoche is an important young Trulku who is recognized as the seventh reincarnation of the highly respected fourth Desi, Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye who rebuilt the temple and ruled Bhutan in the 17th century. Yes, remember that name. This young man was

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identified as a Tulku at the age of five and has been schooled since then by the high Lamas. He completed his highest-level philosophical Buddhist studies at the age of 22 and received the title of Gyelse. He finished his three-year retreat at the age of 25. In order to make an offering, we quickly pooled the contents of our wallets and pockets into a wad of various sized Ngultrum bills. The colorful bills range from .07 to $14 in value, and it happened so fast, the wad amount shall remain forever a mystery to me. There are no coins in Bhutan. We were ushered into an ornately appointed room in which the Tulku sat on a high throne. I actually felt comfortable and at ease with this young man. He wore thick glasses and spoke very little. I observed kindness, perfection, and wisdom in him, surprising for his age. I noticed he was very balanced and in a high state of mental and physical vibration. He gave us each a small envelope which contained a red string called a “protection and blessing cord” which we were to tie around our necks later. The envelope also contained a tiny little dark ball of herbs, called rinchen rilbu or "precious medicinal pills." These are made by skilled Tibetan Lama-doctors, using a variety of hand-collected Himalayan herbs and minerals, infused with the power of prayers, rituals, and mantras. I popped it in my mouth and noticed a little uplifting pleasant rush. That was the physical blessing. The even more subtle blessing was also powerful and seems to be playing out over subsequent months to set us on a path to a happy life in Bhutan. I wonder, what does it mean to be awake? These high-level Lamas are very patient, and they do not waste energy, words, or effort. Perhaps being awake might mean one does not react to what we observe through the senses, knowing that it is possibly impermanent, and even an illusion. I do feel a sense of equanimity in this place. There is no pushing or pulling, no invasion, offering of spiritual advice, no expectation. I feel patience and blessings from these people. The rocks at Horse’s Head are full of secrets. Ongoing power battles in the 17th century, it is said that the Father of Bhutan, the famous Zhabdrung Rinpoche meditated and lived in these crevices. He meditated to clear the energies of the land and to bless the sovereignty of the country. This was especially critical because his Tibetan enemies followed him with physical attacks and magical threats. His cave was attacked by enemies using tantric powers, destroying part of the cliff, which resulted in blocking his cave by a huge boulder (size of a yak), which fell and luckily missed hitting his head and killing him. Fortunately he was in deep meditation, and his survival is considered a miracle.

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On our way back down the mountain, it was easier walking the path in reverse. I am aware more clearly of a deep blessing and calm in this lush forest. It comes into my intuitive awareness that I've been here before. It was a similar day, a lunch invitation from the presiding Rinpoche. Eight lifetimes ago it seems I was a well-to-do Bhutanese lady in my 50’s. It was a day of blessings then too. In a sense today I was just repeating a previous journey. Although still vague and mysterious, the threads of power are alive, and fortunately I was able to relax my static monkey-mind, to be quiet enough to feel the energy in my awareness even a little. I wonder - What it is like to live so simply? The pressures of worldly life are less demanding. What would it be like to find that quiet inside every day? I wonder - What do these Monks, Lamas, and Rinpoches experience? How is theirs different from mine? I’m still in a pleasant daze. Tenzin and Ghalem are speaking fast in Dzongkha and I don't know what is happening. We pile into the car and race into Thimphu for an appointment. 15 minutes later we reach the valley. Suddenly it is time for tea and Tenzin stops the car with a jolt. A big thermos comes out and Ghalem’s beautiful China cups appear. Giggling, we walk out into an open field for a sip of hot Suja butter tea. I feel dazed but happy, slightly confused in an elated sense of wonder. Turns out it would take me months or even years if ever, to connect the many threads that converged today.

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3. Family Puja on the Farm, a Buddhist Annual Blessing Ancient Buddhist wisdom runs deep in the blood. One of its most important expressions is the annual family Puja. A Puja is a blessing. This is a chance to purify yourself for the coming year, to gather with family, to pray and ask for guidance toward one’s highest destiny. A family puja can be a simple affair, or it can be quite costly. A puja may last for days, with monks and lamas chanting. The family puja happens sometime in January, after the Solstice, indicating the return of the Sun. So January is the month of family pujas throughout Bhutan. You’d better attend all of yours, even your partner’s and parent’s families. This tradition links almost everyone in Bhutan once a year through extended family celebrations.

My first experience on a suspension bridge was frightening. Turns out the road to the farm is blocked by a rock slide in the mountains, and we must take an alternate route. Uh Oh! The river has powerful currents of deep crystal-clear water, and I’m terrified to look down. I take a deep breath and move slowly one step at a time. My fearless cousins follow carrying food and gifts. Eventually my foot lands on solid ground, I am much relieved. Uncle Rinzi (Guards the Family Root) is waiting with a truck. We pile in the back and he takes us bumping up a dirt road to the farm.

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I was honored to participate in my new family puja at the farm in Punakha. This is something we Westerners can’t imagine. It’s something like Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s all rolled into one - but with the addition of Lamas and Monks who stay in your house and pray for days, ceremonial activities, cooking special treats, and of course solving family problems. Meanwhile you clean the house, wear your best Kira or Gho, and invite the neighbors. Everybody eats food and Suja, butter tea. At the end there’s a big ceremony where the family chants with monks and shares goodies. On the final night the whole family and neighbors gather to eat, and drink homemade booze called Ara. Then they dance till dawn.

My husband Damchey (Pure Dharma) greets his mother Zekom (Teapot Holder). A squarely shaped woman with twinkling eyes and the most beautiful smile I’ve ever seen, she must have been quite a beauty. Zekom had already given her thumbprint signature permission for our marriage. We can’t speak in words, but we speak easily in body language. She is kind and gives me a cup of hot fresh milk. I understand it’s a gesture of love, and I accept it. “Kadinche” means “Thank you”.

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Rice dries in the sunshine even in winter. The family farmhouse sits high in the Punakha mountains. Rice is their main product, eaten almost exclusively by the family for every meal. They also produce butter, cheese, oranges, and olive oil. The house is huge. Two stories with high ceilings and a roof storage area all have symbolic designs painted inside and out by my talented cousin-brother, Jigme.

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We sit on the kitchen on the floor drinking Suja. Everyone comes to meet Lama D’s new wife. They’re curious and accepting. Lama D. has prepared me well, so I knew everybody’s name. They are amazed to hear I can pronounce their names and their children’s names. I deliver my prepared sentence in Dzongkha, “Che Ghara, name same sem gayi”, meaning “You’re all so kind. I am very happy.” But they all explode in wild giggles. “Why are you laughing?” I ask. “Because no Westerner has ever spoken to us in our language.”, they say. All evening curious neighbors and relatives come in to meet the new family member. I practice my Dzongkha, make them laugh, and feel a bit like a prize chicken at the fair. After a few hours Lama D. says, “Maybe you can go to bed now, as this will continue all night until early morning, and you need some sleep.” I descend the steep front stairs very slowly to do my business in the dark outhouse. As I stoop on the platform to pee, I can see out the open window down the mountain. The air is clear. I close the outhouse door, then wash my face and brush my teeth in a hose that is the main water source for the house. I like the water – it feels clean and fresh with no chlorine. Then I climb carefully two stories up to our room and crawl under the covers. Many hours later Lama D. came to bed. Yep, he was right. They stayed up all night. The following morning I was wondering how I might have a shower. “It’s easy”, says Lama D. “Just take off your clothes and stand under the hose. The mountain water is cool and refreshing. Don’t worry, no one will disturb you. If you’re shy, leave your undies on and wash all the same. Then hang them up to dry on the line.” He was right again. No one disturbed me. I saw everybody discretely take their turn showering under the hose one at a time. This is the main spigot for the whole house, where we gather water, brush teeth, wash hair, and do laundry. I feel like a spoiled American, but everyone is kind and patient. Lama D lived here on the farm barefoot until he was 14 years old. His grandmother Rinchen Budha, (Precious Prize), now 98 years old, didn’t want him to leave. There weren’t many schools in Bhutan at that time. To get an education you had to go to a boarding school or build your own yurt near the school. Finally at 14 he went away to school and became a monk, receiving his Master’s in Buddhist studies from Thimphu monasteries. His brothers and sisters went to live in a yurt.

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My nephews Kunga Palden (Loved by Everyone, Glorious) and Choeney (Enlightenment) adopt me instantly. Since English is now the language of all the schools of Bhutan, they think it’s super cool to have a new “Auntie Jane” who speaks it. It’s funny too, because I’m always comfortable with children. Great! Now I have my translators for the week! Breakfast is red rice and “curry”. Curry means anything you put on the rice. Today it’s seaweed soup, bright green and delicious. My Aunt, Sangye Budha, (Enlightened prize) gathered it from the crystal-clear river and dried it. Once dry, it keeps indefinitely. Seaweed soup is considered a highly nourishing superfood, a flavorful, thick soup. We sit on the kitchen floor and eat with our hands – a technique I will need to practice. Sounds easy – just grab a handful of rice in your right hand and squeeze it into a tight ball. Dip it into your small bowl of “curry” and pop into your mouth without breaking. The seaweed tastes slightly salty and satisfying with red rice.

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Bhutanese do not use family names. When a child is born, one or two names are usually given by a Lama. Buddhist names are steeped in meaning with religious roots. The names may not indicate if the person is male or female, and since there are a limited number of names, many people share the exact same name. I have two cousins named Tshering (Long Life). I have four friends of both sexes named Dorji, four share the name Namgye. The meanings of names are important good wishes for life. For example, my sister, Ghalem is “Auspicious Sign” and my brother Phub Dorji is “Diamond Thunderbolt”. We finish our Suja. Lama D’s mother Zekom comes and sits down on the floor next to me. Her sisters come over and begin to tell me some of their difficulties on the farm. I quickly grab my new friends Choeney and Kunga Palden to translate “We’re worried about the future. The children all work in the cities, and we three sisters are alone here on the farm with grandmother Rinchen Budha.” “We are getting older, and the farm work is very hard.” “What will happen to the farm when we are old?” “We need to build a new outhouse and fix the kitchen.” “Some days we don’t get water from the stream up the mountain, and we have to wait to wash and do dishes.” “Planting rice in July is back-breaking work, and even though children are on school break, not everybody can come help.” “We want to send rice for everyone in the family, even those living in the cities, because our rice is healthier, so they won’t have to buy rice in the market.” “We make the best butter and cheese and send it to the family to save money.” “We make olive oil by had using the old method of squeezing the seeds, but it is very difficult.” “Some years the orange trees get bugs, but we can’t use insecticides because the government won’t allow it.” “We need a better road to get to town, as our dirt road takes two hours to get to Punakha and we don’t always have a working vehicle.” “We want you to understand these problems so maybe you can help the family.” I listen to their discussions. Yes, they make perfect sense. I want to help. How can I help? I will find a way.

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This is a small part of my family on the farm. I am honored to be in this family. Everyone is connected via cell phones on WeChat, regardless of where they are. Except for me, as I don’t speak Dzongkha well enough to chat. Everyone shares and shares alike. Daily problems are discussed and resolved on social networking.

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By late morning, preparations are in full swing for the puja. I hear an incessant pounding of beating poles coming from outside and went to find two of my cousins grinding rice into flour. Two long poles, two people, and a hole in a rock make a perfect grinder. They work together alternating beats. Thump! Thump! Thump! Thump! Soon they had several kilos of finely ground rice flour. This is used to make treats like fried Maku, and also needed by the monks to make ceremonial Torma figures for the altar.

My sister Ghalem (Auspicious Sign) is an expert organizer. When she’s around everything goes smoothly. She and my sister Thuji Zam (Blessings of Goodness) lead the effort to make Maku treats. The team worked for many hours making thousands of Makus. They’re made of rice flour and water formed into balls, which are then flattened between two metal plates, and fried. As they fry, they puff up like Indian Poori. These will be used for the ceremony and gifts to guests.

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Everyone seems to have a job except me. The work is orderly and relaxed. So I wander around taking photos and asking silly questions. The children follow me so I can communicate with the elders. Everyone is patient and curious. They ask me about my family in the US, and wonder if my family is worried. I show them my three sisters’ selfie photos ,giving approval for our marriage, as required by Bhutanese law. I explain that we speak frequently on Facebook Messenger, and they feel connected to my roots in the US. Three big cooking fires are going behind the house in the outdoor kitchen, where the men hang out. I smell something spicy for dinner. Inside the house, the ladies are prepping vegetables while they organize and strategize the work.

My sister Ghalem shows off dried seaweed. Freshly gathered from the mountain streams, seaweed made a nourishing breakfast. See seaweed soup recipe page XX.

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Lama D’s mother Zekom is using her cow stable temporarily for making and storing Maku. Here she holds the first of thousands of Maku treats for the puja.

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There’s always a pot of hot Suja ready to pour for guests. The tea leaves for Suja are woody like twig tea, dry, and brownish green, with a pleasing earthy smell.

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Suja tea tastes best with fresh butter. First skim the cream off the milk and pour it into this churn. My husband Lama D shows how to churn butter and sing at the same time. He says: “It’s like a dance. You have to put your whole body into it." Suja means “churned tea”. In olden times, making Suja was quite a task and every household used a wooden churn to make butter for tea. Now, people save time by using commercial butter from India and whip it with an immersion blender.

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Suja, Bhutanese Butter Tea Suja, is enjoyed many times a day. It’s as much a nourishing soup as it is a tea. Every Bhutanese gathering includes a big pot of Suja. Families and friends sit around hours drinking Suja with Zaw, or crispy rice. Traditionally made by boiling twig tea, Suja is then whipped with yak or cow butter until smooth and creamy. Ingredients

• 2 cups water • 2 tablespoons loose tea, Twig, Black, or Pu-erh • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 2 tablespoons butter (cow or yak)

Instructions

1. In a pot on the stove, boil half the water. 2. Add the tea and boil until it is dark. 3. Add butter, salt and the remaining water and bring to a boil again. 4. Stir with an immersion blender until frothy. Pour into a cup and enjoy.

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Zaw, Crispy Rice In Bhutan Suja butter tea is always served with crispy Zaw. Way more fun than Kellogg’s “Rice Crispies”, a handful of Zaw adds crunchy flavor to your tea. Ingredients:

• 2 cups uncooked rice, red or white • Water to cover • 3 tablespoons butter • Salt to taste

Instructions

1. Soak uncooked rice in water for 8 hours or overnight. Drain well. 2. Mix the rice with butter and salt. 3. Cook over low heat stirring frequently until crispy. Serve.

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Zekom has 13 healthy cows. That’s because they get the best feed in the world - kitchen vegetable cuttings, red rice hulls, and mountain foliage. Every morning she milks them. They spend winters in Punakha where it’s warm. In the summer she walks them on a 3-day trek to a mountain pasture near Thimphu, where it is cooler.

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My sister Ghalem picks chili peppers from her garden to make Ema Datshi. Fresh cheese and butter from Zekom’s cows make it irresistibly delicious.

Chili peppers are a mainstay of the Bhutanese diet. Peppers were once a New World food that came to Asia via Portuguese ships in the 16th century. But don’t

tell that to a Bhutanese. I wonder, what did they eat before chili peppers?

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Butter and cheese in Bhutan are some of the purest in the world. To make butter the old way, cream is separated from the milk and churned by hand in a wooden churner. My mother-in-law’s homemade butter tastes like velvet. She wraps it in palm leaves and delivers it to the family with cheese and red rice. She makes cheese by heating the milk until it separates, and then forming cheese balls with the solids. The cheese comes out soft with a slightly sharp flavor, like farmer’s cheese. My cousin Damchey shows me how to do laundry. To wash a Gho, a large cloak for her husband, she fills a big tub of water from the main hose and adds a bit of detergent. Then she steps into it and walks to churn it for about ten minutes. Once it is soft, she scrubs it on a rock with hand-held laundry soap to remove the tough spots. Then she rinses it in fresh water in the tub with her feet. She turns it inside out and hangs it on the line in the sun. Soon it is spotless and ready to wear. I discovered that hand washing in this way is much more effective than machine washing, which mixes everything randomly and never gets at the tough spots.

Today is the day for house cleaning and getting ready. Uncle Rinzi carries Grandmother down the steep stairs for her bath, which happens in a big round tub in the yard, and everybody helps. A few others are busy coloring their hair with jet black hair color. The house is cleaned and swept with short brooms that work amazingly well if you don’t mind stooping. Soon all is clean and quiet.

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Ema Datshi, Chili and Cheese The delicious national dish of Bhutan is this easy 10-minute meal made with chili peppers “ema” and cheese “datshi”. Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons fresh cow or yak butter • 1/2 onion bulb, sliced • 1/2 cup water • 10-15 pieces of red or green chilis, sliced • 1 ball of fresh Bhutanese or farmer’s cheese (1/2 cup) • Salt to taste

Instructions:

1. Melt butter in a thick pot. Sauté onion till translucent. 2. Add water, chilies, salt, and cheese, and cook until cheese melts. 3. When the cheese melts, stir everything to combine. 4. Check for salt. Serve with red rice.

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There’s a close unity in these children’s games. Since they don’t have toys and there’s no internet on the farm, they make up their own games. They spend school breaks here on the farm, because they hold their grandmothers in high respect. These kids are all cousins, but they’re actually more like brothers and sisters. My husband grew up in this huge house with his grandmother, his mother and her two sisters. So the four women were all like his mothers, and his cousins are like brothers and sisters. Likewise, these cousins are effectively brothers and sisters. A huge generational culture shift is happening in Bhutan, which so recently opened to the West. Before 1962, there were no schools at all, and education was only in monasteries. Suddenly television and internet arrived in 1999. Older people speak only Dzongkha or one of 30 native languages. Now any child who goes to school speaks English, because after 1962 all schools have been conducted in English. Strict country-wide school policies with standard national tests now determine college admission and jobs, so your score at the end of the year is really important. It’s amazing to see how well families are handling this rapid generational change.

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Suddenly the distinct, pungent aroma of chicken and ginger infuses my nose and I follow it to find the source. I descend the steep stairway carefully holding on to the bannister like a grandmother. I walk past the laundry around to the back of the house. There I find my brother Phub Dorji (Diamond Thunderbolt) grinning beside a huge outdoor kitchen. It consists of a covered shed open on one side, with three cement fireplaces big enough to support the weight of huge cooking pots.

Oh my god, I’m thinking - we’re feeding an army! An enormous red-hot wood fire is heating water for Suja. I see two other huge pots. He lifts a lid and invites me to sniff. Wow! I gasp as a nose-full of hot steam fills my lungs! The penetrating smell of ginger, chili, and chicken sparks my hunger. Dinner will be ready soon. Phub Dorji is a master chef. Along with my talented brother-in-law Yeshe Dorji (Wisdom Thunderbolt), these guys cooked every meal for family and guests. Together they carried huge pots of hot food up the steep stairway into the large room where we share our meals. Spiced to perfection and served right out of the pot over a mound of red rice, we all sit around on the floor eating with our hands.

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Jasha Maru, Spicy Chicken Stew with Ginger This is an easy chicken dish with pungent ginger and chili in a rich gravy. Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons cooking oil such as mustard oil or olive oil. • 3 cloves garlic, minced • 1 red onion, finely chopped • 1 knob fresh ginger root, grated or chopped • 2 green onions, finely chopped • 1-pound chicken, cut into 1-inch pieces • 3 fresh chilis red or green, chopped • 3 tomatoes, chopped • 3/4 cup water • Salt to taste

Instructions:

1. Heat oil in a large pan.

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2. Add garlic, onion, ginger, and green onion 3. Sauté until lightly browned. Add salt to taste. 4. Lower heat, cover and cook until chicken is done, about 20 minutes. 5. Add water during cooking when needed so that it has a light gravy. Serve.

Of course, before eating or even drinking tea, we chant a prayer to the three jewels. This prayer is given in appreciation for, and to offer yourself to the three Jewels of Buddhism: the Buddha, the Dharma path, and the Sangha, or Practitioners. First say OM AH HUM three times to consecrate the food or beverage.

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What is the purpose of a family puja? Buddhists believe that we have lived countless past lifetimes, and until we reach enlightenment, we will live endless lives in the future. Through this journey, we accumulate a lot of karmic debt, because we perform many actions which lead to rewards and retributions that remain in the universal memory. Because of this there are many human and non-human beings with whom we have karmic debts. Some of those sentient beings may come to harm us or cause misfortunes because of their connections to our negative actions toward them in the present, or in past lives. The purpose of these rituals is to avoid karmic harm, obstacles, diseases, and to appease spirits in all dimensions.

It is believed that we share our lives with many human and non-human forces in various realms. It is important to maintain good relationships with all these inhabitants to have harmony in the world. Bhutanese offer rituals to the unseen beings in the world, to make up for any acts and harm we have done, knowingly or unknowingly, and to win their favor and protection.

The family puja is essentially a series of prayers and offerings to bring happiness to the entire family, the community, and the universe. It is also to appease human and non-human spirits including any malevolent beings through a wide range of offerings. A family puja is seen as an opportunity to give generously so that the spirits are satisfied, and any karmic debts are fully paid off.

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Ten monks begin chanting in the family shrine room. They will chant prayers all day for three days., taking breaks for meals and butter tea. The drummer on the left is reading chants from traditional Chhokey pages, while the monk in the corner reads them on his cell phone. I find that amusing. My little niece helps as she knows the chants by heart.

While some of the monks chanted, another group of six monks was busy preparing the altar pieces. These monks are skilled in in making ceremonial Torma figures of colored rice flour and assembling offerings for the altar.

The young monks worked with passion and joy so amusing that I stopped in every few hours to admire their progress and take pictures. Their enthusiasm was infectious, and they all decided to give me a new name “Mito Selden” meaning “Clear Flower”, which for some reason they thought was very funny. Every time I walked into the room, they reminded me of my new name and laughed hilariously.

First, they make the rice flour dough. Then they built tall bases for each Torma and allow them to dry. Meanwhile they mix a palette of every color rice paste imaginable. Then they spend several days painting round disks in bright geometric designs. Finally they assemble the Tormas by mounting the disks on the bases, and place the finished piece on the altar, hopefully in time for the final ceremony.

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Prayers for the family puja are written in Chhokey, which is a sacred language similar to Tibetan and Dzongkha. All Bhutanese monks study this language and learn the many chants used for different purposes. Everyone in Bhutan reads the beautiful Uchen script. I’m still struggling with speaking it, let alone reading!

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Six monks worked for three days making Torma statues. They painted vibrant disks, each one unique, of intricate geometric designs in brightly colored rice paste. A family puja is an important way to cultivate harmony, blessings, guidance, and protection. Buddhism holds that life in the earthly realm can be messy. We must make actions. Sometimes our actions have repercussions that disturb harmony in unseen ways. In fact, it is possible that by doing an action that benefits you and your family, you may unintentionally disturb harmony for other persons or beings. Both purposeful and inadvertent harm to others causes personal Karma, or negative impressions in the universal memory that must be healed. Any Karma that you accumulate in this life creates stress for you and others in the future. Buddhists believe we must heal all our negative past Karmas. This insures us a step forward to a happier rebirth in the next life. The ultimate goal is to achieve freedom, which means you go to live in the realm of the Gods, free of the cycle of life and death.

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Phaksha Paa is spicy stir-fried pork with red chilies and vegetables. Enjoyed throughout Bhutan, this has many versions using different vegetables and spices.

Ingredients: • 1 medium onion, peeled and quartered • Fresh ginger root, peeled and cut into a 1-inch cubes • 1 white radish, peeled, and halved lengthwise. • 1 stick unsalted butter • 1-pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 6 bx 1/2-inch strips • 1/2 cup water, and about 2 teaspoons salt to taste • 2 tablespoons chili powder • 3 large heads bok choy cut into 1/2-inch strips • 6 ounces dried pork, cut into 3 x ½-inch strips • 1 large hot green pepper, seeded and cut into strips Instructions:

1. Dice the onion and ginger. Set aside. Slice the radish to about 6mm thick 2. Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the pork, onion, daikon, water, chili

powder, and salt. 3. Simmer over low heat until the pork is just tender, about 30 minutes. 4. Boil the bok choy until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain. 5. Add the ginger, bok choy, dried pork, and chili pepper to the stew. 6. Simmer over low heat until heated through, 5 to 10 minutes. Serves 6.

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My Aunt Namgay Zam (Victorious Goodness) offers me a Kira to wear for the next Tshechu. This one is a masterpiece of intricate handwoven color. She says she’ll trade for the orange one she saw me wearing last year. I gratefully accept!

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Flowering buckwheat fields are beautiful in Punakha. Buckwheat is a staple grain, especially in high altitudes. Two kinds of buckwheat are grown: sweet and bitter.

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Buckwheat was once considered a poor man's food. However, recently buckwheat pancakes and noodles have become a popular food in farm homestays and hotels.

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Buckwheat Pancakes, or “Kuhle” Ingredients:

• 2 cups buckwheat flour • 2 cups water • 1 egg, well beaten • A pinch of salt

Instructions:

1. Sift dry ingredients. Add water, egg and salt to make a thick batter. 2. Heat a lightly-oiled griddle or frying pan over medium heat 3. Pour 1/3 cup batter into the pan for each pancake, spread into a thin circle. 4. Flip when the top begins to bubble. Cook until golden brown.

After breakfast everyone is busy getting ready for the ceremony. My10-year old niece Jamyang (Goddess of Wisdom) looks after the newest baby, Mito’ (Flower).

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Buckwheat Noodles with Spring Onions and Green Chili Homemade Buckwheat noodles drizzled with this savory sauce send my taste buds to heaven! This recipe uses a traditional Puta (noodle) maker. You can also roll out the dough and use a pasta machine or buy commercial soba buckwheat noodles. Noodles Ingredients

• 4 cups sweet buckwheat flour • 2 eggs, beaten • 1/2 cup warm water or a little more • 1/2 teaspoon salt

Savory Sauce:

• 1/4 cup mustard oil • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 3 spring onions, finely chopped • 1 fresh green chili, thinly sliced, seeds removed for less heat • Pinch red chili powder • Salt to taste, and a pinch black thingey pepper

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Buckwheat Noodle Instructions: 1. Noodles: Sift flour into a mixing bowl and make a well in the center. 2. Mix in warm water gradually, until it is a smooth non-sticky dough. 3. Sometimes buckwheat flour falls apart as it is gluten-free. To remedy this,

consider using 20% wheat flour. 4. Knead the dough well until firm. Form a ball and push it through a

traditional noodle press, (Or roll out the dough and use a pasta machine.) 5. Immerse noodles in boiling water for 5 minutes, or until soft but still intact.

6. Savory Sauce: Strain and run under cold water. Set aside to drain. 7. In a large shallow pan over medium heat, add mustard oil and all the topping

ingredients. Sauté until soft. Drizzle over the noodles. Toss well and serve.

This ingenious wooden noodle press is still used in some kitchens. Just place a ball of dough in the little box and sit on the handle. Presto! Catch your noodles

coming out underneath. Wall paintings are by my talented brother Jigme.

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Layered paddies of red rice line the mountainside in Punakha. This the #1 main product of the family farm. I fell in love with its rich flavor and nutty texture.

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What gives Bhutanese red rice its flavor and high nutrition? Red rice (Oryza sativa) is a native Bhutanese variety. Its dark color comes from anthocyanins, which give it 10X the antioxidants of brown rice. Anthocyanins are red pigments said to fight free radicals, giving anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, and anti-cancer benefits. A high fiber content in red rice helps to prevent constipation, improve digestion, and promote weight control. Red rice is also a good source of protein, especially when it is pre-soaked or sprouted for 8-20 hours. Red rice is not genetically modified, lending it a better taste with high nutritional value. A signature product of Bhutan, red rice thrives in high altitudes from 3,000 to 8,000 feet, where it is irrigated with crystal clear glacial water that is very high in trace minerals. This gives it a rich, nutty, earthy flavor, and soft texture. Bhutan rice growers work by hand without chemicals or pesticides. Red rice doesn’t not go through intense milling, so it maintains its deep color and natural nutrition if not over-milled. However many modern Bhutanese prefer white rice. Farm families share the work helping each other transplant and weed. To make red rice, cover with 1-inch water. Cook 20-40 minutes depending on softness desired.

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It’s almost time for the ceremony. Everybody disappears to put on their national dress. My sister Thuji Zam dresses my 6-year old niece in her Kira. Bhutanese people cherish their national dress. Closets are rare, so the Kira and Gho are never hung. Instead they are flawlessly and carefully folded so there are no wrinkles when you put it on. It’s time for final straightening and sweeping of the house before the ceremony. I need to say that brooms in Bhutan are special. For one, they don’t have handles. They’re short bouquets of natural plant fibers, which means you have to double way over to sweep. I’ve watched sweeping a hundred times - you put your left hand behind your back and stoop to sweep with the right. When I pick up the broom and offer to sweep the floor of the big room, my sisters gasp in shock. I’d like to help because they do everything for me. So I carefully assume the position, bending over with my left hand behind my back and begin to sweep. But the leaning over position is clumsy and I miss a few spots of dirt. The girls all laugh, and one of my sisters takes the broom out of my hand. Her technique is flawless, and she finishes in no time. Yep, I have a lot to learn.

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After three solid days of work, the Torma altar pieces are finished. Monks attach all the colored disks onto the bases and bring them into the shrine room altar.

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The Torma are masterful works of art. The monks show them off. Meanwhile kids

steal a moment to play a game on the phone of an unsuspecting parent.

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It’s time to pay. A few family members count money and prepare envelopes to distribute to monks and helpers. A family puja can be very expensive, costing over

100,000 Bhutanese Ngultrum. This is an investment to insure a happy life.

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The ceremony is about to begin, and everyone comes to the shrine room to do prostrations or bowing. Even Lama D’s grandmother Rinchin Budha’ (Precious Prize) at 98 years does her bows with the assistance of a strong helper. The family takes great care of her as the oldest matriarch, a pillar and source of their happiness and strength. Meanwhile Lama D. holds envelopes of money to pass out to helpers.

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The altar is decked, and the ceremony begins. The family sits in the shrine room in excited silence. A monk raises the offering bowl as everyone prays and chants.

I notice he’s chewing bubble gum, which I find amusing. I tried so hard to catch a shot of him blowing a big bubble, but alas, I couldn’t get it. Maybe next year!

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Two of my cousins are monks. Uncle Rinzi’s sons Wongchuck (Powerful) and Sonam Topgye (Gifted Luck) play deep resonant horns called “dungchen”. It is considered a great honor for the family to have two monks to study the scriptures and carry the tradition. Of course, they also speak perfect English.

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Everyone is gathered in the shrine room. Now music and chanting are resounding throughout the house, and the excitement is palpable. A young monk walks around the room offering everyone the scent of flaming Ara, homemade rice liquor. We lean into the flames to sniff. It is important to inhale the spirits deeply and fan ourselves with our hands to receive blessings. The monk comes around with a tub of rice. We each take a handful and throw it as a blessing for prosperity. Soon the shrine room floor is covered with rice.

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Earlier today I had seen Lama preparing a ritual offering bowl. He carefully assembled a wooden image with many other elements. I learned he was creating a kind of effigy-offering. Later this will serve as a scapegoat to drive out all family wrongs and bad qualities. This is a way to appease and pacify harmful spirits, to thank and please all non-human beings. Using the effigy, evil spirits are paid a ransom or substitute gift so that the family is spared of any harm. The substitute gift or scapegoat is usually an effigy of an animal made of dough or wood.

The effigy represents all the negative karma, diseases, obstructions, and unhappiness in the family. Samples of food, cloth and all kinds of symbolic riches are included in the effigy. The container is filled with various offerings, such as cereals, fruit, plants, cloth, jewelry, precious metals, money, etc. As a symbol of generosity and giving, it is ideal to include as many real valuable items and riches as possible. These offerings are made to the appease and befriend any malevolent spirits and to anyone we owe karmic debts as a form of repayment.

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This is a skillful way of appeasing and pacifying non-human spirits, and to positively establish order and balance in the world. It is directed toward non-human forces and to redistributing wealth accumulated by people. Through this practice, one can also repay karmic debts. Family rituals are considered essential for averting sickness, misfortune, war, natural calamities and harm by evil spirits.

Uncle Rinzi (Guards the Family Root) motioned for me to come downstairs quickly where in a separate room, a different group of monks was chanting, with musical instruments to prepare the removal of all evil from the home and family. Then they took the effigy outside to a hill far away from the house. Uncle Rinzi invited me to follow. Outside they chanted and did a dance with a knife. Then my cousin Phuba Namgye (Victorious Thunderbolt) took a bow and arrow and shot the effigy with the arrow as it burst into flames. They all fed the flames with straw until the image burned completely. Uncle Rinzi explained this is a way of destroying bad karma, negative habits and tendencies in the family, for blessings and a happy life in the new year.

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After the ceremony, Zekom walks around serving everyone her homemade Ara. Watch out - this is a powerful traditional booze made from rice or grain. I was

afraid to taste it as I was sure I’d have been on the floor. Instead I let the others get totally inebriated, as they celebrated dancing and singing far into the night.

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The ceremony is finished, and everyone feels an air of happy relief. Soon all the neighbors, family and friends gather in the big room to sing and perform traditional circle dances. I try to follow along, but find they are quite complex, and I feel like I have two left feet. Each melody is different, the words, steps, and arm movements unique. I walked around and watched them dance for hours. Opposite: Bhutan's traditional stone bath is by far the best way to rejuvenate tired muscles. My nieces Kyizom (Gathering of Stars) and Sangay Chukey enjoy a hot stone bath called “Dotsho”. The penetrating heat of the water, along with minerals from the stones and local Artemisia herbs combine to soothe muscle pain, joints, digestion, and even arthritis. After a hot stone bath, deep sleep comes easily. To make a hot stone bath, you’ll need a heavy wooden tub with a compartment for hot rocks at one end. Heat the rocks in a roaring fire until they glow red hot. Fill the tub with water, then place hot rocks in the side panel of the tub. The hot rocks quickly heat the water. It feels divine! Take a deep breath now, you’re in heaven!

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Target Market: Walking in the Footprints of the Enlightened Ones The market for this book is anyone who enjoys travel, nature, culture, and healthy food. This includes National Geographic armchair travelers who love stories and great photos. The market is especially anyone interested in visiting Bhutan, and all cooks who enjoy Asian flavors. “Asian Cuisine” has recently been declared one of the top food trends for 2019. So the target market includes people of all ages curious about Asian foods, anyone interested in healthy foods, lifestyles, and all those who embrace clean foods free of processed, industrial ingredients.

Google Search Trends shows a stable and rapidly growing market for terms “Asian Cuisine” and “Healthy Food”. Log into google, click this link: https://trends.google.com/trends/explore?

Tourism is on the rise in Bhutan. In 2017, 250,000 foreign visitors spent $80 million US dollars in Bhutan. Over 50% of them were highly educated with a master’s degree, and 35% a bachelor’s degree. This graph from the 2017 Bhutan Tourism Monitor show rapidly increasing tourism in Bhutan each year.

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The following graph shows international visitors to Bhutan by country. The largest percentage is American, at 16.6 percent, indicating this is a good target market. The market for this book includes visitors from other English-speaking countries such as UK, Australia, and Canada, which are well represented among Bhutan travelers.

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How I Will Market: Walking in the Footprints of the Enlightened Ones I plan to market this book to the same organizations I offer my Buddha Speaks series. I will sell it to followers of my healing tours and workshops online, in Bhutan, and Bali. I will feature it on our websites, blogs and Facebook groups. We will offer it to our web subscribers and tourists with our travel company, White Tiger Bhutan Tours. We will offer it at my husband, Lama Dungtsho’s Power Dharma workshops online, in Bhutan and Bali. We will promote it through an international network of friends and followers through the following links: Our Websites: Healing Website: FiveSeasonsMedicine.com Coming soon, Tour Company: www.WhiteTigerBhutan.com Coming soon: www.BuddhaSpeaks.com Coming soon: Lama Dungtsho Buddhist Teachings: www.PowerDharma.com Bhutan mobile: +975-1796-7830 Our Facebook pages: facebook.com/jane.Barthelemy facebook.com/srijana1080 facebook.com/whitetigerbhutan/ facebook.com/JanesHealthyKitchen/ facebook.com/PaleoDesserts/ facebook.com/Lama.dungtsho facebook.com/Lama. I will publish articles and buy advertisements in top travel magazines.

• InFlight Magazines • National Geographic and National Geographic Traveler • Travel + Leisure • Conde Nast Traveler • Afar Magazine • International Living • Robb Report • Food and Travel • Global Travel • Travel 50 and Beyond • Go World Travel Magazine • Drift Travel Magazine • Escapism Travel Magazine • Lonely Planet Traveller • Vacations & Travel Magazine

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Comparative Titles, Walking in the Footprints of the Enlightened Ones These are my favorite Bhutan travel books and memoirs. Bhutan cookbook competition is quite limited. No one has combined travel memoir, culture, photography, and recipes. Or not yet…

1. Married to Bhutan: How One Woman Got Lost, Said I Do, and Found Bliss, by Linda Leaming, Hay House, 2011. Tucked away in the eastern end of the Himalayas lies Bhutan—a tiny, landlocked country bordering China and India. Impossibly remote and nearly inaccessible, Bhutan is rich in natural beauty, exotic plants and animals, and crazy wisdom. It is a place where people are genuinely content with very few material possessions and the government embraces "Gross National Happiness" instead of Gross National Product.

2. A Field Guide to Happiness: What I Learned in Bhutan about Living, Loving, and Waking Up, by Linda Leaming, Hay House, 2014. In the West, we have everything we could possibly need or want—except for peace of mind. So writes Linda Leaming, a harried American who traveled to Bhutan to teach English and unlearn her politicized and polarized, energetic and impatient way of life.

3. Vanishing Faces of Bhutan: The Study of a Timeless Culture, by Linda Leaming (Author), Joseph N. Barker (Photographer), Maine Authors Publishing, 2016. The Study of a Timeless Culture provides a rare glimpse into the everyday lives of people living in remote Himalayan villages as they go about their daily rituals: shopping, praying, dancing, selling their produce, eating, meeting friends, celebrating, playing archery, and working the land. between 2004 and 2007.

4. Treasures of The Thunder Dragon: A Portrait of Bhutan, Hardcover, 2nd Edition, by Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, Queen Mother of Bhutan, Penguin/Viking; 2hd Edition 2012. A captivating blend of personal memoir, history, folklore and travelogue, this book remains the most insightful and comprehensive portrait of the Himalayan kingdom.

5. Bhutan: Through the Lens of the King, by Pavan K Varma and Malvika Singh, with His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck - photography, Roli Books, 2012

6. Bhutan: The Land of Serenity, Paperback, by Matthieu Ricard, Thames & Hudson, 2012. “Color-drenched images capture the rainbow palette of Bhutanese weavings, ceremonial garb, painted pottery, and wind-whipped prayer flags.” Passport Magazine

7. Radio Shangri-La: What I Discovered on my Accidental Journey to the Happiest Kingdom on Earth, by Lisa Napoli, Broadway Books, 2011. Lisa Napoli was in the grip of a crisis, dissatisfied with her life and her work as a radio journalist. When a chance encounter with a handsome stranger gave her the opportunity to move to Bhutan.

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8. Foods of the Kingdom of Bhutan, the only Bhutan cookbook I found, by two Americans, father and son: Ernest and Erik Nagamatsu, published by Kuensel Corporation, 2010, Printed in Bhutan. All proceeds benefit the Tarayana Foundation and Bhutan Foundation. Forward by her Majesty the Queen Mother Azhi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, who launched the book in 2010. Available only in Bhutan. This book provides a rare glimpse into the cuisine and culture of Bhutan, a culinary journey of 24 recipes showcasing traditional Bhutanese foods. Winner of the 2010 Gourmand World Cookbook Award for "Best Asian Cuisine Book in the World."

9. Six Years in Bhutan, by John Stedman, Socciones Editoria Digitale, 2016 An unusual perspective on life in this remote and little-known country of BHUTAN, based on six years spent living and working in the unique Buddhist Himalayan Kingdom. The author gives intriguing insights into the unspoiled scenic country, culture and lifestyle of the people, shared in a candid way but with obvious affection for those Bhutanese he gets to know and respect. He recounts with humour and feeling his frustrations, sense of isolation and the physical demands of living in Bhutan at a time when communication with the outside world were difficult.

10. Beyond the Sky and the Earth: A Journey into Bhutan, by Jamie Zeppa, Riverhead Books Reissue, 2000. Jamie Zeppa was 24 when she left a stagnant life in Canada and signed a contract to teach for two years in the Buddhist hermit kingdom of Bhutan. Much more than just a travel memoir, Beyond the Sky and the Earth is the story of her time in a Himalayan village. Whether you're travelling to Bhutan, looking for the best travel writing around, or wishing to be transported to a culture, mindset, and spiritual ethos wonderfully different from your own, Beyond the Sky and the Earth is a joyous and lush memoir that will transform the way you think of faith, Western life, and love.

11. Set Free: A Life-Changing Journey from Banking to Buddhism in Bhutan, by Emma Slade, Summersdale, 2017. From fast-paced City life to the stillness of Bhutan's Himalayan mountains, Set Free is the inspiring true story of Emma's astonishing life lived to extremes and all that that entails: work, travel, spirituality, Buddhism, relationships, and the underlying question of what makes a meaningful life. Realizing her view on life had profoundly changed she embarked upon a journey, discovering the healing power of yoga and, in Bhutan, opening her eyes to a kinder, more peaceful way of living. Emma Slade is an ordained Buddhist nun, yoga and meditation teacher, and author based in Whitstable, Kent, but spends several months per year in Bhutan.

12. Bhutan: Himalayan Mountain Kingdom, by Francoise Pommaret, Odyssey Books & Maps; Seventh edition, 2018. "The bible of Bhutan guide books."―Travel & Leisure An up-to-date, in-depth introduction to Bhutanese history, culture and ecology, with a comprehensive itinerary ranging from the major cities to the most remote monasteries. Special sections on selected topics, literary excerpts, and gorgeous photographs make this an essential guide to this remote, pristine mountain kingdom. Shoe-horned into the Grand Himalayas, Bhutan is a fiercely independent kingdom that celebrated its centenary in 2008. Few outsiders know Bhutan as intimately as Françoise Pommaret.

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About Srijana

Srijana, aka Jane Barthelemy, is a Buddhist practitioner, intuitive healer, photographer, channel, artist, and author. The name Srijana means “She who is deeply inventive, creative,

and independent, one who serves and assists all of humankind.”

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Srijana grew up in a non-traditional family of scientists, world travelers, artists, educators and independent thinkers. She studied music, languages, and writing, receiving her BS in Opera and Russian, and her MBA from Indiana University. She began her spiritual journey in 1972 under Swami Rudrananda, known as Rudi. The first American-born Swami, Rudi was a brilliant renegade master who integrated many Tibetan and Indian traditions into a highly effective practice for modern times. Jane continued her Buddhist studies with Lama Tshering Wangdu Rinpoche, a lineage holder of the Longchen Nyingthig, Shije, and Chöd traditions. Jane’s profound curiosity about almost everything has led her through a life of surprising change. Her careers include MBA and CFO of the original Rudi’s Bakery, opera primadonna in Italian theaters, jewelry designer and owner of Marco Polo Designs - a Venetian glass jewelry company, Paleo chef, Taichi instructor, intuitive healer, English Foreign Language teacher, and author. Several life-threatening illnesses prompted her to study energy medicine and led her to make major lifestyle changes. Each chapter of her life was punctuated by some kind of critical event in which everything had to change: health, career, relationships, lifestyle, and place of residence. Severe intolerances to industrial foods led her to change her diet and write two successful books: Paleo Desserts 2012, and Good Morning Paleo 2014, published by Da Capo Press / Hachette Books. Her food blog https://janeshealthykitchen.com recently won the prestigious CV Magazine award for the Most Innovative Healthy Food and Lifestyle Blog in North America. While living in Italy and performing as an opera primadonna, Srijana began to cultivate and work with the powerful collective energy of the audiences in theaters. Over time this led her to be aware of what she calls the "World Mind". She began to tune into that universal field every day in her morning practice, listening for energy changes, and responding accordingly. She discovered her intuitive abilities and became certified in multiple energy medicine healing modalities including BodyTalk, EFT, Body Code, Accunect, NLP, Reiki, and Biodynamic Craniosacral Therapy. She began to channel ancient therapies, developing Kodaishin Japanese X-Meridian therapy, Past Life Clearings, and Advanced Bio-Energetics to clear imbalances in body, mind, and spirit. She considers the human body to be a highly tuned listening device linking the functions of the skin, pineal, connective tissue, nervous system, and energy body into a system that receives and transmits our experience of reality. She created her healing website: https://fiveseasonsmedicine.com, where she offers healing sessions, articles, philosophical discussions, ancient healing wisdom, and a travel blog: https://fiveseasonsmedicine.com/blog/. Srijana is a lover of Nature and Buddhist practitioner for nearly 50 years. She teaches Taichi and Qigong in the tradition of Master Lam Kam Chueng in London. On a 2017 medical service healing trip to the Himalayas with a group of American doctors, she met her future husband, Lama Dungtsho of Bhutan. Srijana fell in love with Bhutan, its pristine waters, clean air, unsullied lifestyle, and kind-hearted Buddhist traditions. She taught English creative writing, Taichi, and Health Sciences in the Yoezerling Higher Secondary School in Bhutan. She writes books, articles, and offers distant healing sessions via Skype. Srijana helped found a family tour business, White Tiger Bhutan Tours. Currently Lama Dungtsho and Srijana offer a wide variety of Buddhist tours and retreats in Bhutan, Nepal, Tibet, and Bali. They reside in Bhutan and Bali.

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About Srijana, photos

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Announcing Upcoming Retreats and Tours in Bhutan, Nepal, Bali, and Tibet. Building a network of followers. Hosted by our travel company, White Tiger Tours.

Websites and contact info:

Email: janebar108@live.com, jane@fiveseasonsmedicine.com My Travel blog: fiveseasonsmedicine.com/blog/ My Food Website: JanesHealthyKitchen.com, 6,100 subscribers My Healing Website: FiveSeasonsMedicine.com 300 subscribers Our family’s - White Tiger Bhutan Tour Company: www.WhiteTigerBhutan.com Coming soon: www.BuddhaSpeaks.com Coming soon: Lama Dungtsho Buddhist Teachings and tours: www.PowerDharma.com Coming soon: Srijana’s Bhutan books, tours, and workshops at www.Srijana.bt

Srijana’s Bhutan mobile: +975-1796-7830 Srijana USA phone until 12/30/19. 505-930-2745 Facebook pages: facebook.com/srijana1080 facebook.com/jane.Barthelemy facebook.com/whitetigerbhutan/ facebook.com/JanesHealthyKitchen/ facebook.com/PaleoDesserts/ facebook.com/Lama.Dungtsho facebook.com/Lama D