Body Malodours and Their Topical Treatment Agents

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    Review Article

    Body malodours and their topical treatment agents

    M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

    School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand

    Received 4 October 2010, Accepted 3 February 2011

    Keywords:anti-perspirant, body odour, deodourant, foot odour, treatment

    Synopsis

    Body malodour, including foot odour, suppresses social interaction

    by diminishing self-confidence and accelerating damage to the

    wearers clothes and shoes. Most treatment agents, including alu-

    minium anti-perspirant salts, inhibit the growth of malodourousbacteria. These metallic salts also reduce sweat by blocking the

    excretory ducts of sweat glands, minimizing the water source that

    supports bacterial growth. However, there are some drawback

    effects that limit the use of aluminium anti-perspirant salts. In

    addition, over-the-counter anti-perspirant and deodourant products

    may not be sufficiently effective for heavy sweaters, and strong

    malodour producers. Body odour treatment agents are rarely men-

    tioned in the literature compared with other cosmetic ingredients.

    This review briefly summarizes the relationship among sweat, skin

    bacteria, and body odour; describes how odourous acids, thiols,

    and steroids are formed; and discusses the active ingredients,

    including metallic salts and herbs, that are used to treat body

    odour. A new class of ingredients that function by regulating the

    release of malodourants will also be described. These ingredients do

    not alter the balance of the skin flora.

    Resume

    Les mauvaises odeurs corporelles, y compris celles des pieds, atte-

    nue linteraction sociale en diminuant la confiance en soi et favori-

    sant des dommages aux vetements et aux chaussures portes. La

    plupart des agents inclus dans les traitements, y compris les sels

    daluminium antiperspirants, inhibent la croissance de bacteries

    malodorantes. Ces sels metalliques reduisent aussi la sueur en blo-

    quant les canaux excreteurs des glandes sudoripares, reduisant ainsi

    au minimum leau, source de la croissance bacterienne. Cependant,

    il y a quelques inconvenients qui limitent lutilisation de sels dalu-

    minium anti-transpirants. De plus, les produits antiperspirants et

    deodorants OTC peuvent ne pas etre suffisamment efficaces pour des

    personnes produisant une grande quantite de sueur et producteursde fortes odeurs. Les agents actifs sur les Odeurs corporelles sont rar-

    ement mentionnes dans la litterature comparativement a dautres

    Ingredients cosmetiques. Cette revue recapitule brievement la rela-

    tion entre la Sueur, les bacteries cutanees et lodeur corporelle; elle

    decrit comment des acides odorants, des thiols, et des ste rodes sont

    formes; et examine les principes actifs, y compris les sels metalliques

    et les vegetaux utilises pour traiter lodeur corporelle. Une nouvelle

    classe dingredients dont la fonction est de reguler la liberation de

    mauvaises odeurs est egalement decrite. Ces ingredients ne modifient

    pas lequilibre de la flore cutanee.

    Introduction

    Body odour, which encompasses axillary and foot odour, can com-

    municate a strong non-verbal signal [1, 2]. These odours are often

    unnoticed by the offender because that person has specific anosmia

    [3]. As a result, the individual is embarrassed when alerted, and

    his or her self-confidence is compromised. The offensive body odour

    also has economical consequences stemming from the need to

    replace damaged/stained clothes and shoes [4, 5].

    In contrast to clear findings in animals, the presence of human

    vomeronasal organs is still being debated. Clearly, the ability to

    appreciate underarm and foot odours depends solely on an individ-

    uals evolutionary culture and perceptual development. However,

    the emission of odourless human pheromones has been reviewed

    and is becoming a popular discussion topic [6].

    The human scent is genetically controlled and systemically influ-enced by dietary and medicinal intake, as well as the application of

    fragrance products [68]. Heavy sweating or hyperhidrosis, partic-

    ularly at axillary sites, leads to unpleasant odours that cause social

    embarrassment and reduce self-confidence, especially among

    women. Hyperhidrosis results from the oversecretion of sweat.

    Because there is an excessive amount of water in which bacteria

    can grow, hyperhidrosis is often accompanied by bromhidrosis or

    osmidrosis or offensive body odour. Both conditions can be treated

    by topically applying anti-perspirant and deodourant products.

    Body odour treatment products are part of a multibillion dollar

    industry [9]. High levels of fragrance are often used in these prod-

    ucts to mask malodour [10]. Surprisingly, there is little discussion

    of odour treatment products in the literature [6], in contrast to

    other personal care products [11, 12].

    This review will summarize the chemical composition andformation of body odour, the use of anti-perspirant, deodourant

    and herbal products to treat body odour, and a new class of treat-

    ment agents that do not change the balance of the skins bacterial

    population.

    Sweat glands and body odour

    Sweat is necessary for thermoregulation control, enabling humans

    to live in different climate zones. There are three types of sweat

    glands: eccrine, apocrine and apoeccrine. The eccrine glands are

    Correspondence: Nattaya Lourith, School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah

    Luang University, Chiang Rai, 57100, Thailand. Tel.: +66 53 916834;

    fax: +66 53 916831; e-mail: [email protected]

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33, 298311 doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00649.x

    2011 The Authors

    ICS 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Socie teFrancaise de Cosmetologie298

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    distributed throughout the human body, particularly in the palms,

    soles and armpits. Sweat glands vary in density and size depending

    on race, sex, body site and determination techniques [1315]. Apo-

    crine gland secretions, which are initially odourless, are metabo-

    lized by normal skin flora, producing malodour.

    Eccrine glands exist and function at birth. Apocrine glands exist

    at birth, but they do not begin to function until the onset of pub-erty. Within the axilla, apocrine glands outnumber eccrine glands

    by 101 [16]. Apoeccrine glands develop from the eccrine gland

    during adolescence, as the number of eccrine glands is observed to

    decrease with age. Although the eccrine glands are mainly respon-

    sible for thermoregulation, emotional stimuli also initiate a

    response, particularly from those glands found in the palms, soles

    and forehead. Emotional stimuli also initiate responses from the

    apoeccrine and apocrine glands within the axilla [17].

    Apocrine glands open into hair follicles and secrete malodour

    precursors and microbial nutrients that provide an excellent envi-

    ronment for the growth of cutaneous microorganisms [18]. Some

    examples of apocrine gland secretions include: proteins, lipids, sul-

    phur-containing amino acids, volatile short-chain fatty acids and

    steroids such as dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), DHEA sulphates

    (DHEAS), androsterone and testosterone [1921]. In adolescents, ahigh amount of 5a-reductase type I has been identified that con-

    verts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), another androgen

    that contributes to malodour [22]. Such cutaneous microorganisms

    include aerobic cocci of the Micrococcaceae family, aerobic diph-

    theroids (mainly Corynebacterium), anaerobic diphtheroids (Propio-

    nibacterium) and yeast (Pityrosporum) [23]. Some of the resulting

    malodourous species include: (E)-3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid or

    3M2H and 3-hydroxy-3-methyl hexanoic acid (HMHA) [24], 3-sul-

    phanylalkanol (particularly 3-methyl-3-sulphanyl hexanol;

    3M3SH) [2527], androstenone (5a-androst-16-en-3-one) and

    androstenol (5a-androst-16-en-3a-ol).Trans-3M2H is detected more

    frequently than its cis-isomer. The E/Z ratio is 10 : 1 in men and

    16 : 1 in women [18, 28, 29], of which detection thresholds of

    these characteristic malodourants were shown in Table I. It is the

    presence of those bacteria population that metabolizes apocrinegland secretions producing axillary odour.

    Hypersweating by eccrine glands, commonly known as hyper-

    hidrosis, produces a water-rich environment that supports the

    bacteria population (i.e. Corynebacteria, Stapphylococci and Propioni-

    bacteria) that causes extreme body malodour known as osmidrosis

    or bromhidrosis. Hypersweating does not occur before the onset of

    puberty, similar to emotional sweating in the axillary region. Axil-

    lary hyperhidrosis is defined as a sweat rate >20 in men and

    10 mg min)1 in women. However, palmar hyperhidrosis in both

    sexes is defined as a rate of sweat secretion >3040 mg min)1

    [30]. The axillary odour is stronger given differences in the bacte-

    rial populations at the different sites. Young females are often

    hypersensitive to the resulting axillary malodour, perhaps because

    male body odour from this site acts as a human pheromone [6].

    Sweat from the eccrine gland mainly consists of water (99%)and amino acids, ions, lactic acid, glycerol, urea, peptides and

    proteins (particularly cysteine containing) [31, 32]. Propionibacteria,

    Staphylococcus and Corynebacteria that are apart of the normal skin

    flora catabolize glycerol, and lactic acid to short-chain (C2C3)

    volatile fatty acids (VFAs) such as acetic, and propionic acids.

    These bacteria also degrade amino acids into C4C5 methyl-

    branched VFAs such as isovaleric acid, a common foot odourant

    [25, 33, 34]. Valine is transformed into isobutyric acid, leucine is

    converted to isovaleric acid, and isoleucine is degraded to 2-methyl

    butyric acid through aerobic metabolism [35]. The apoeccrine

    glands secrete some of the same compounds that are found in

    eccrine sweat [36] because these glands are believed to develop

    from eccrine glands. Sweat collected from the skin surface contains

    a diverse range of metabolites, depending on the physiology status

    of the donor as well as the functional, and developmental states of

    the sweat glands.

    Sebaceous glands also secrete odourless compounds that includewax esters, cholesteryl esters, cholesterol and other sterols, squa-

    lenes, hydrocarbons and triglycerides. These compounds are further

    metabolized into malodourants by means of cutaneous bacteria

    lipase. Triglycerides are hydrolysed yielding glycerol and subse-

    quently VFAs.

    Odourous acids

    Staphylococci metabolize amino acids to generate short-chain

    methyl-branched VFAs that contribute to malodour. Corynebacteria

    metabolize skin lipids to generate medium-chain VFA (C6C11).

    These bacteria transform, for example isopalmitic acid to isobutyric

    acid [35]. Corynebacteria, previously called lipophilic diphtheroids,

    populate the axillary region and are believed to be the main bacte-

    rial contributor to axillary odour [37, 38]. The metabolic efficiencyof odourant generation by means of Coryneform lipase activity was

    found to be superior to that mediated by Staphylococci and Propioni-

    bacterium. Propionibacterium was found to be the least efficient

    bacteria with regard to the generation of malodourants [37].

    3-Hydroxy-3-methyl hexanoic acid, a very pungent axillary

    odour, was the most abundant odourant identified in axillary secre-

    tions [39] quantified by means of LC-MS/MS [12] and confirmed by

    GC-MS [24] and GC techniques [25]. This odourant acid was

    detected in a larger amount than its dehydroxylated analogue

    (3M2H) [12]. HMHA might be a precursor of 3M2H, resulting from

    an acid-catalysed dehydrolysis reaction [40]. HMHA, 3M2H and

    28 other acids were determined to be degradation products of leu-

    cine, isoleucine and tyrosine [39]. The bacterial exoenzyme, amino-

    acylase, was shown to cleave these odourants from water-soluble

    proteins, namely apocrine secretion odour-binding proteins 1 and 2(ASOB1 and ASOB2). ASOB2, a stable protein [41], was identified

    as apolipoprotein D (apoD), which is an a2l-microglobulin in the

    lipocalins family [42]. The mechanism of VFA transportation to the

    skin involves the covalent binding of 3M2H (3M2H : apoD = 2 : 1)

    and its hydroxylated derivative, HMHA, a spicy note characteristic

    of axillary odour to a glutamine (Gln) residue of the ASOB proteins,

    Na-3-methyl-2-hexenoyl-l-glutamine and Na-3-hydroxy-3-methyl-

    hexanoyl-l-glutamine [30]. These odourants are released by a

    Zn2+-containing Na-acyl-Gln-aminoacylase specifically from Coryne-

    bacterium striatum strain Ax20, as shown in Fig. 1. This dipeptidase

    has a certain affinity towards Na-acyl-Gln conjugates [12] and

    Na-acyl-Gln-aminoacylase. This affinity is specific to cleaving at the

    Gln residue and low for cleaving the Na-acyl bond [12, 24, 25].

    Subsequently, the odourant acids cleaved from Na-acyl-Gln conju-

    gates [43] are volatilized off of the skin surface [12]. Odourantacids are covalently bound to apoD at their carbonyl terminal ends.

    The ASOB2 concentration was found to vary with race [20], con-

    firming the race-related differential intensity of body odour [13,

    15]. Nonetheless, the concentration of axillary bacteria did not

    vary [20]. Therefore, an understanding of the molecular mecha-

    nism underlying metallopeptidase enzyme activity will facilitate

    the design of inhibitors to terminate the release of malodourous

    compounds [12].

    In addition to ASOB2, the ABCC11 gene, whose protein is

    expressed and localized in apocrine glands, has recently been found

    2011 The Authors

    ICS 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francaise de Cosmetol ogie

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33 , 298311 299

    Body malodours and treatment agents M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

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    to be associated with the presence of axillary malodour. This

    protein is essential for Na-acyl-Gln conjugates in odourous acids

    [44]. The enzymatic release of these conjugates results in long-last-ing malodour. Using HMHA with a detection threshold of 4 ppt,

    the enantiomeric excess (ee) of the (+)-(S)-isomer (>97%) was

    observed at a S: R ratio of 72 : 28. The S-isomer exhibited a

    strong spicy odour, whereas its optical isomer exhibited a weak

    animal-like odour [25]. However, the ABCC11 protein was less

    associated with the production of straight-chain acids. The

    straight-chain acids might derive from b-oxidation or bacterial deg-

    radation of skin or sebum lipids [44]. Transportation and formation

    of odourous acids are prospectively illustrated, as shown in Fig. 2.

    The above learning suggests that controlling ABCC11 will control

    the secretion and formation of amino acid precursors and axillary

    odourants.

    ABCC11 protein was also associated with a dry white earwax

    phenotype among Asian individuals. Asians having this particular

    phenotype had less body odour and lower levels of apoD than

    Caucasians [20, 45]. Therefore, determination of whether the

    ABCC11 gene is present, and whether this gene expresses a dryvs. wet earwax phenotype, represents a good way to screen for

    osmidrosis.

    In contrast to body odour, foot odour is mostly due to short-chain

    fatty acids catabolized from components found in eccrine sweat.

    Acetic, butyric and isobutyric acids, and particularly isovaleric acid,

    are the main components in eccrine sweat, with traces of propionic,

    valeric and isocaproic acids [34]. Isovaleric acid is an odourant

    derived from leucine; acetic and propionic acids are produced via

    the fermentation of glycerol and lactic acid; isobutyric acid is

    derived from valine, 2-methyl butyric acid from isoleucine and

    short-chain, branched fatty acids are formed by incomplete degrada-

    tion of skin lipids. ABCC11 not only contributes to axillary odour

    but also is associated with foot odour and strongly involved in isova-

    leric acid formation and leucine/isoleucine degradation [44].

    Odourous thiols

    Odouriferous sulphanylalkanols include 3-sulphanylhexanol (3SH),

    2-methyl-3-sulphanylbutanol (2M3SB), 3-sulphanylpentanol (3SP)

    and 3M3SH. These compounds were found in low amounts in

    human axillary sweat (110 ppt) [26], but human sensitivity to

    them is high. Cystathione-b-lyase is the enzyme involved in cataly-

    sing the release of sulphur-containing malodourous compounds.

    The strong meaty, fruity odour of 3M3SH is contributed by the

    97% stereometric excess of ())-(S)-isomer, which possesses a char-

    acteristic sulphuric odour, whereas its (+)-(R)-isomer (>97% enan-

    tiomeric excess) has a fruity odour. The odour of 3SP is described

    as onion-like, sulphuric and weakly reminiscent of grapefruit. The

    threshold for this compound is 2 ppt, whereas 3M3SH, the major

    odourous sulphanylalkanol, has a lower threshold of 1 ppt. Anisomeric mixture of 2M3SB has a threshold of 8 ppt (Table I). Such

    a mixture has an onion- and sweat-like odour. Although these

    compounds are found at very low concentrations, they strongly

    contribute to body odour [25]. These compounds are secreted from

    apocrine glands [26] as Cys-(S) or Cys-Gly-(S) conjugates [43, 46,

    47]. A metal-dependent dipeptidase hydrolyses the Cys-Gly bond.

    Corynebacterium C-S lyase then releases the powerful odourant thiol

    (Fig. 3). Na-acyl-Gln-aminoacylase was also found to cleave

    Cys-Gly-(S) conjugates [43]. Corynebacterium b-lyase doses release

    the sulphuric notes from fresh sweat. Similar to HMHA formation,

    HN

    HOO

    OH

    O

    NH2O

    HN

    O

    OH

    O

    NH2O

    HO

    HOO

    HO

    O

    Corynebacteriumaminoacylase

    Figure 1 Corynebacterium sp. function in 3-hydroxy-3-

    methyl hexanoic acid and 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid

    formations.

    HMHA-Gln-ABCC11

    HMHA-Gln

    HMHA-apoD-HMHA

    HMHA

    Figure 2 Odourous 3-hydroxy-3-methyl hexanoic acid transporta-

    tion and cleavage.

    2011 The Authors

    ICS 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francaise de Cosmetolog ie

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33, 298311300

    Body malodours and treatment agents M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

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    odourous acids and thiol formations are linked. Furthermore, the

    1,4-addition of Cys to the a,b-unsaturated acids including an ester,

    and aldehyde appears necessary for biosynthesis of the 3M3SH pre-cursor [26]. Therefore, the cross-specificity of these two metallopep-

    tidases plays an important role in axillary odour formation. Thus,

    dual metallopeptidase inhibitors blocking Na-acyl-Gln conjugates

    associated with odourant acids and thiols should be designed as

    treatment for body odour [43].

    ABCC11 regulates the Cys-Gly-(S) conjugate of 3M3SH, which is

    further catabolized into 3M3SH by b-lyase [44]. Direct hydrolysis

    of 3-sulphanyl-3-methylhexanol (3M3SH), which was isolated from

    human sweat, was proposed as the mechanism. The (S)-isomer of

    this precursor was 7578% more prevalent than the (R)-isomer in

    sweat and had an onion-like odour. In contrast, the (R)-enantiomer

    exhibited a fruity, grapefruit-like odour [25, 27]. The transporta-

    tion and cleavage of odourous thiols are graphically summarized in

    Fig. 4.

    Odourous steroids

    Axillary sweat and hair contain androsterone (5a-androst-16-en-3a-ol), 17-oxo-5a-androstan-3a-yl sulphate (androsterone

    sulphate; AS), 17-oxo-5a-androsten-3b-yl sulphate (DHEAS),

    DHEA, 3b-androstadienol and androstadienone (androst-4,

    16-dien-3-one), which are secreted by apocrine glands [19]. These

    precursors are converted to 4,16-dienone, and 5a-androstenone

    by Corynebacteria producing a characteristic urine-like odour. 5a-

    Androstenone is catabolized to 3a- a n d 3b-androstenols, which

    have musk, and urine scents, particularly the a-isomer. Coryne-

    form and Staphylococcus epidermidis cleave DHEAS, which is trans-

    ported by the ABCC11 protein [48], and androsterone sulphate

    by means of sulphatases delivering their unconjugated corre-

    sponding steroids (e.g. 5a-androst-2-en-17-one). In addition,

    3b-androstenyl sulphate is converted to 3b-androstenol. Coryne-

    bacteria is the most efficient in transforming 5a-androst-5,16-

    diene-3a-ol to androst-4,16-diene-3-one, the malodourous steroid[49, 50]. The transformation is significantly associated with the

    presence of oxygen, confirming the aerobic nature of Coryneform.

    Thus, 5,6-dehydrostenols created by Coryneform 5a-reductase play

    an important role in malodour steroid production. 4,5-Isomerase

    is associated with odourous steroid formation through isomeriza-

    tion of androst-5,16-dien-3-one into androst-4,16-diene-3-one

    following the oxidation of androst-5,16-diene-3a-ol [49]. The con-

    figuration of 3-hydroxy contributes to the odour of the steroids

    produced. An equatorial arrangement of hydroxyl (3b-ol) showed

    less odour, whereas axial configurations (3a-ol) increased the

    malodour. Notably, androst-16-en-3a-ol creates the characteristic

    male body odour. The enzymatic activity was stereospecific

    towards b-isomer, as 3b-sterol dehydrogenase activity was much

    greater than 3a-sterol dehydrogenase activity [48]. Thus, transfor-

    mation of androst-5,16-diene-3-ol, androst-16-en-3-ol and and-rost-4,16-diene-3-ol are key components in the biosynthesis of

    malodourous androst-16-en-3a-ol (in male body odour), androst-

    4,16-dien-3-one and 5a- androst-16-en-3-one, which contribute

    to the characteristic underarmpit odour, as proposed in Fig. 5.

    These 3-oxo-steroids have very low thresholds (Table I), particu-

    larly 5a-androst-16-en-3-one (0.2 ppb), which is a powerful urin-

    ous odour. However, androstenone is perceived by only 50% of

    the human population. Furthermore, testosterone is not a precur-

    sor of 3-oxo-steroid (androst-4,16-dien-3-one) [50]. Therefore, the

    action of axillary odour treatment agents should be reviewed to

    S

    O

    HN

    NH2

    HO

    O

    OH S

    O

    HO

    NH2

    OH

    HS OH

    Corynebacterium

    Dipeptidase

    Corynebacterium

    cystathionine-beta-lysase

    Figure 3 Corynebacterium sp. function in 3-sulphanyl-3-methylhexanol formation.

    ABCC11-Cys-Gly-3M3SH

    Cys-Gly-3M3SH

    3M3SH

    Gly-3M3SH

    Figure 4 Odourous 3-sulphanyl-3-methylhexanol transportation

    and cleavage.

    2011 The Authors

    ICS 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francaise de Cosmetol ogie

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    effectively combat body malodour which do not affect skin

    homeostatis by novel ways of action [24].

    Thus, the remaining sections of this review article aim to

    describe the topical treatment agents that are currently used, as

    well as the newest generation of active ingredients in body odour

    treatments. In addition, laundry products with active agents pre-

    venting malodour are included, as typical axillary odour appears

    on the cloth within approximately 2 h of wearing and stays

    until washing. Indeed, skin microorganisms, particularly S. epide-rmidis and other malodour-producing bacteria, were found to

    survive, low temperature washing and slow drying conditions

    [51].

    Active ingredients for body odour treatment

    Topical anti-perspirants are the first line of body odour improve-

    ment because they are inexpensive, with minimal side effects

    [52]. Anti-perspirants are used to diminish sweat secretion by

    blocking the excretory ducts of sweat glands. Most types of anti-

    perspirants contain metallic salts, particularly aluminium. The

    types of aluminium salts include: aluminium chlorohydrate

    (ACH), aluminium bromohydrate, aluminium chloride, aluminiumsulphate, potassium alum and sodium aluminium chlorohydroxy

    lactate. Aluminium salts are anti-bacterial. Aluminium anti-

    perspirant salts (most notably ACH, aluminium sulphate, ACH

    lactate and aluminium chloride) polymerize with increasing pH,

    forming aluminium hydroxide gel plugs in the sweat tubule

    [23]. These plugs prevent new sweat movement towards the skin

    surface. However, they are not permanent, and the acidic nature

    of these salts can be irritating to the skin which limits their use.

    In an attempt to reduce skin irritation, salicylic acid was used

    in combination with ACH [5]. The formulation, consisting of alu-

    minium salts and salicylic acid, had a reduced incidence of skin

    irritation and had good anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties

    [53].

    Zinc salts

    The anti-DHT activity of zinc gluconate, zinc glycerinate, zinc

    acetate, zinc sulphate, zinc oxide, zinc citrate and zinc chloride was

    used in combination with other anti-perspirants, natural androgen

    receptor expression inhibitors and malodour carrier proteins inhibi-

    tors in the formulations for body odour control [54]. Water-soluble

    zinc salts (zinc pidolate or zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate, zinc chlo-

    ride, zinc gluconate, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulphate and zinc

    sulphate) were used to absorb human axillary smells [55]. This

    function is an additional benefit of Zn salts, highlighting their

    HO

    H

    H

    H

    Androstadienol

    HO4SO

    O

    H

    HH

    H

    Androsterone sulfate

    HO

    O

    H

    HH

    H

    HO

    OH

    H

    HH

    H

    HOH

    HH

    H

    Androst-16-ene-3-ol

    Androsterone

    3,17-androstadiol

    HO

    HH

    H

    HO

    HH

    H

    O

    HH

    H

    O

    HH

    H

    OH

    HH

    H

    Androst-16-ene-3-one

    Androst-4,16-ene-3-ol Androst-5,16-ene-3-ol Androst-4,16-ene-3-one Androst-5,16-ene-3-one

    Figure 5 Odourous steroids formation.

    Table I Characteristic body odours and their detection thresholds

    [23, 25]

    Odourant

    Organoleptic

    property

    Detection

    threshold

    HMHA Spicy 4 ppt

    3M2H Sweaty 14 ppb

    Isovaleric acid Sweaty 1 ppm

    3M3SH Sweaty 1 ppt

    2M3SB Sweaty 8 ppt

    3SP Sulfuric 2 ppt

    Androstenone Urinous 0.2 ppb

    Androstenol Musky 6.2 ppb

    HMHA, 3-hydroxy-3-methyl hexanoic acid; 3M2H, 3-methyl-2-hexenoic

    acid; 3M3SH, 3-methyl-3-sulphanyl hexanol; 2M3SB, 2-methyl-3-sulphanyl

    butanol; 3SP, 3-sulphanyl pentanol.

    2011 The Authors

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    efficacy in malodour treatment. Furthermore, zinc pyrithione and

    zinc phenolsulphonate were formulated with a 1,3-diketone in a

    laundry product [56] designed to suppress undesirable odour.

    Similar to the case with micronized ACH, zinc oxide powder with

    a particle size of 0.02200lm was compounded with sesquiter-

    pene alcohols and volatile silicone, producing a dry-texture deodou-

    rant [56] characterized by control-release enhancement andmoisture absorption, which eliminated microbial growth.

    Mn salts

    In addition to zinc and aluminium, porous manganese was used as

    a deodourant carrier that exerted anti-bacterial activity [57]. Fur-

    thermore, divalent manganese salts (manganese chloride, manga-

    nese acetate and manganese sulphate) were found to reduce

    axillary, foot and scalp odours in aerosol, spray, roll-on, cream,

    stick and laundry detergents suitable for woven or non-woven

    fibres [58].

    Anti-microbial agent

    A good anti-bacterial deodourant should work specifically againstaxillary bacteria within an effective time period as well as exhibit

    good stability and compatibility with other ingredients in the for-

    mulation. Furthermore, such formulations should be non-toxic and

    non-irritating and safe. Thus, anti-microbial metal ions known as

    anti-microbial ceramics (ACs) have become increasingly important

    in peoples day-to-day lives because of their wide range of appli-

    cations in personal and home care products (i.e. fabrics and

    cosmetics). Formulations of ACs, for instance, zeolite AC, calcium

    phosphate AC and amorphous silica AC, are used as anti-microbial

    agents in household and personal care products because of their

    good biocompatibility. ACs based on hydroxyapatile and nitrate-

    apatile complexed to Ag+ demonstrated an obvious anti-microbial

    effect [59] that allowed for controlled release, which was superior

    in terms of safety and durability to the casual anti-bacterial vehi-

    cles [60]. The bactericidal action of silver zeolite ACs resulted fromthe transfer of silver ion to the bactericidal cell and the formation

    reactive oxygen species. This action mode was proved in the bacte-

    ria treated, and untreated with Ag-zeolite, and in anaerobiosis

    condition as well [61]. Furthermore, Ag-zeolite concentrated to

    540% ww)1 was found to act as an anti-microbial against skin-

    resident bacteria. Its activity was superior to that of triclosan. It

    was long-lasting and had no adverse effects. It was promoted as an

    excellent agent for anti-axillary odour preparations [62]. Ag salts

    of fusidic acid were also found to be effective against S. epidermidis

    growth, particularly silver fusidate (minimum inhibitory concentra-

    tion; MIC = 608000 ppm), which was more effective than silver

    sulphadiazine (MIC = 800016 000 ppm). These Ag salts were

    additional candidate topical agents for use as body odour treatment

    products [63].

    Triclosan was used as a broad-spectrum anti-microbial agent formore than 40 years. Body odour control preparations were first

    launched in 1967, because of the compounds efficacy and stabil-

    ity, as well as the lack of resistance among malodour-forming

    bacteria [64]. Corynebacterium sp. inhibition was found to be effec-

    tive at an MIC of 3 ppm; activity against Staphylococcus sp., and

    Propionibacterium acnes was also observed [65]. Triclosan and triclo-

    carban were included as anti-microbial agents in combination with

    sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate (used as a preservative) and aro-

    matic compounds such as eucalyptol, menthol, methylsalicylate

    and thymol [66].

    Anti-microbial agents that could be used in deodourants include

    cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide; cetyl pyridinium chloride;

    benzethonium chloride; diisobutyl phenoxy ethoxy ethyl dimethyl

    benzyl ammonium chloride; sodium N-lauryl sarcosine, sodium

    N-polymethyl sarcosine; N-myristoyl glycine, potassium N-lauroyl

    sarcosine; stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; 2,4,4-trichloro-

    2-hydroxydiphenyl ether; zinc pyrithione; sodium bicarbonate;2,2-methylene-bis-(3,4,6-trichlorophenol); zinc phenolsulphonate;

    2,2-thio-bis-(4,6-dichorphenol); p-chloro-m-xylenol; dichloro-m-xy-

    lenol; and diaminoalkyl amide. These agents were formulated with

    a 1,3-diketone to obtain deodourant effects. Notably, 5-chloro-2-

    (2,4-dichlorophenoxy)-phenol and 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxane,4,6-di-

    one were deodourant agents that were suitable at concentrations

    of 0.0120% for topical application and in cloth worn in contact

    with skin. In addition, these diketones were found to be compatible

    with anti-microbial agents that were used in the conventional

    formulations such as sticks, roll-on, cleansing and laundry products

    [67]. The diketones were entrapped in cyclodextrin for controlled

    release of active components, and for the absorption of malodou-

    rous perspiration, with no associated irritation [68]. In addition,

    benzalkonium chloride was used as an anti-microbial agent in a

    deodourizing emulsion containing isopropyl myristate or isopropylsterate [69].

    In addition to the use of the above agents, stick, spray and lotion

    anti-microbial piroctone [70] (0.11.0%, w w)1), formulations were

    used to control body odour [71]. Coryneform growth inhibition was

    also exerted by b-chloro-d-alanine, and d-cycloserine at an MIC of

    0.001 and 0.005% wv)1, respectively, similar to that of triclosan

    which was 0.001% wv)1 [72]. Propylene glycol can also function in

    deodourant formulations as a bacteria growth inhibition agent.

    Aryl 2-acetoxyethanoic acids (phenyl 2-acetoxyethanoic acid,

    diphenyl 2-acetoxyethanoic acid (4-chlorophenyl) 2-acetoxyetha-

    noic acid, (2-chlorophenyl) 2-acetoxyethanoic acid, (4-chlorophe-

    nyl)-(2-chlorophenyl) 2-acetoxyethanoic acid) were also applicable

    to the development of deodourant products as they inhibited the

    bacterial growth [73]. A formulation consisting of hexamethylene

    biguanide hydrochloride inhibited body odour more effectively thantriclosan and was used in the production of solutions, lotions,

    creams, ointments, powders, suspensions, soaps, gel sticks and

    aerosols [74].

    Azole anti-fungal agents include clotrimazole, miconazole, tioco-

    nazole, butoconazole, econazole, terconazole, ketoconazole and

    fenticonazole, as well as terbinafine and tolnaftate. These compounds

    were used in creams for axillary odour treatment, in combination

    with undecylenic and salicylic acids, and benzoyl and hydrogen per-

    oxides [75]. x-Cyclohexylalkan-1-oles with anti-microbial activity

    were formulated into body odour treatment products [76]. Androste-

    none odour was found to decrease following application of povidone,

    which is an anti-bacterial agent [77].

    Odour-neutralizing agent

    Axillary malodour neutralizing agents can act via a sulphydryl

    reactant, yielding N-ethylmaleimide and N-coumarylmaleimide.

    This technology was patented [78] in addition to the neutralization

    effect of NaHCO3 towards odourous acids for instance 3M2H [23].

    Metal oxide silicates in particular calcium silicate act as odour

    absorbents and neutralizers to absorb and neutralize body malo-

    dours accordingly. The silicate particles allow for the volatilized

    malodourants, and fatty acids to be easily adsorbed onto the

    surfaces. Therefore, less fatty acids evaporate, and less odour is

    perceived [79, 80].

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    Odour absorbers

    Cyclodextrins are used to entrap active ingredients and thereby

    control the release of polyols, anti-microbials, zinc salts, polymers,

    bicarbonate salts, chelating agents, zeolites and activated carbon.

    Cyclodextrin formulations can be sprayed or wiped onto the skin

    [66]. Cyclodextrins absorb moisture and odour-causing molecules.In addition, silicates, silicas and carbonates absorb moisture [79

    81] which indirectly reduces malodour formation by eliminating

    cutaneous flora that cause the odour. Bacteria prefer cool and dry

    to hot and humid environments. Polyamines hybridized with inor-

    ganic oxide materials [e.g. SiO2, TiO2, ZnO, Al2O3 or Mg(OH)2]

    have also been shown to absorb odour [82].

    Novel ingredients for the treatment of body malodour

    Inhibition of androgen receptor expression

    Resveratrol, epigallocatechin-3-gallate and flufenamic acids were

    used to prevent body odour by inhibiting the expression of andro-

    gen receptors [68]. Androgen receptor blocking of DHT binding

    was employed by a C-19 steroid with an androsten-17(OR)-3-onestructure, with R representing a hydrogen, or an alkyl, aryl or acyl

    group [83]. Competitive inhibition of the malodour-producing

    enzymes, aminoacylase and cystathionine b-lyase [12, 24, 26]

    resulted in a neutral or pleasant odour. This result was achieved

    through the use of O-acyl serine and threonine compounds at a

    concentration of 0.0110% ww)1, in both stick and roll-on formu-

    lations [84, 85].

    ASOB2 inhibitor

    Monesin, tunicamycin, amphomycin, diumycin, showdomycin,

    tsushimycin, amphortericine, mycospocidin, streptovirudin and

    d-glucosamine [86] are thought to be involved in apoD suppression

    through the inhibition ofN-linked oligosaccharide-processing glyco-

    protein synthesis. Therefore, terminal glycosylation was prevented,and body malodour was limited. Accordingly, a screening method

    for enzymes mediating malodour involving incubation of Na-acyl-

    Gln-aminoacylase with precursors, and measurement of the release

    of HMHA or MHA and free l-Gln [87] was shown to be effective in

    identifying agents that inhibited the aminoacylase-catalysed mal-

    odour-generating reaction.

    Ethylendiaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and pentetic acid, for

    example, significantly reduced the enzyme activity, and subsequent

    malodour production by chelating Zn2+ [25] rather than by acting

    as bacteriostatic agents. Indeed, there could be other chelating

    agents that could provide sequestration of the active-Zn2+-site in a

    similar way.

    Alternatively, deodourants have been designed using fragrance

    precursors that bind with Gln residues. Corynebacteria enzymes use

    these residues as substrates, providing a way to engineer enzymespecificity towards Gln but not acyl groups [24]. Thus, cutaneous

    bacterial degradation of amino acid conjugates could one day

    provide pleasant odourant precursors. Homeostasis of the skin

    would be retained, as none of the skins normal flora would be

    eliminated through the use of this novel deodourant system.

    Nutrient deprivation

    A combination system consisting of diethylenetriamine pentaacetic

    acid (DTPA), and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) might exert

    deodourant activity because of synergistic effects. The axillary mal-

    odour could be controlled by sequestering iron depriving the bacte-

    ria of a needed food source [88]. The use of DTPA and BHT were

    found to significantly reduce body odour [89].

    Exoenzyme inhibition

    Steroidal axillary malodour production was inhibited by exoenzyme

    inhibition. The exoenzymes involved were arylsulphatase and

    b-glucuronidase. The inhibitors with deodourant effects were Cu2+,

    hexametaphosphate, d-glucaro-D-lactone, ethylenediaminetetraace-

    tic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid, O-phenanthroline and sodium

    sulphate or other phosphates [90].

    Control of malodour with fabrics

    Fe(III)-4,4,4,4-tetracarboxylic acid phthalocyanine, a deodouriz-

    ing complex, was grafted onto the surface of polypropylene non-

    woven fabric. This fabricated fabric showed high deodourizing

    performance for 2-mecaptoethanol [91].

    The production of odour-controlling textiles also incorporated

    the use of a polymeric amine coating [92] of hydroxyl-containingamines, particularly trialkanol amines on cellulose fibres. The use

    of trialkanol amines conferred anti-microbial properties to the fab-

    ric. The soft resinous coating was durable to cleaning procedures.

    The anti-microbial activity was regenerated at pH 10 or above.

    This process controlled certain odours and diminished the offensive

    body odour [93].

    A laundry cleansing product containing lysostaphin (Gly-Gly

    endopeptidase), which hydrolyses the Gly-Gly bond in the polygly-

    cine interpeptide link joining staphylococcal cell wall peptidogly-

    cans, was also patented as a component of a detergent

    composition, suitable for all types of textiles, and fabrics. The deter-

    gent system consisted of amylase, arabinase, galactanase, lipase,

    mannanase, pectinase, protease and xylanase [94].

    Herbs to treat body odour

    Herbs and naturally derived compounds are alternatively available

    for applications in body odour treatment. Natural flavonoids exert

    deodourizing effects [95] because of 3,4-hydroxyl units. The addi-

    tional 5,7-dihydroxyl groups enhance anti-microbial activity [96,

    97] in addition to their efficiency in androgen receptor inhibition

    [64]. The toxicity of flavonoids is minimal [98]. Traditional reme-

    dies can also be used to control body odour; i.e. the Kampo formu-

    lation. This traditional medicine contains Rehmanniae radix, Cnidii

    rhizoma, Angelicae radix, Scutellariae radix (17%, each) and Phello-

    dendri cortex, Coptidis rhizoma and Gardenae fructus (8%, each). The

    mixture was found to suppress lipase activity of P. avidum, which

    significantly reduced the production of butyric acid (P = 0.047)

    [59]. Therefore, herbal extracts with high amounts of these natural

    compounds and bactericidal activity towards malodour-generatingmicroorganisms are applicable in herbal deodourant product devel-

    opment and the development of bactericidal essential oils.

    Herbal extracts

    Anti-microbial activity towards nine pathogenicArctopus species has

    been studied in A. dregei, A. echinatus and A. monacanthus. The root

    of each plant was extracted using 20% aqueous methanol.Arctopus

    spp. showed the strongest activity against S. epidermidis;A. monacan-

    thus was found to be the most potent (MIC = 2050 ppm), followed

    2011 The Authors

    ICS 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francaise de Cosmetolog ie

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    by A. echinatus (MIC = 50200 ppm) and A. dregei, respectively

    (MIC = 100900 ppm), whereas the MIC of ciprofloxacin was

    600 ppm [99].

    Caesalpinia minosoides, which is freshly consumed as a vegetable

    in Thailand, is a calming agent with carminative effects that

    reduce dizziness. The anti-microbial activity of this compound was

    investigated. To do so, the plant was macerated with several sol-vents at different polarities to yield crude acetone, aqueous, chloro-

    form and ethanolic extracts. All parts of the extract were able to

    inhibit S. epidermidis, particularly the aqueous extract, which

    potently inhibited S. epidermidis at an MIC of 3130 ppm; streptomy-

    cin (MIC = 63 ppm) was used as a positive control [100].

    Tea or Camellia sinensis has remarkable biological activity with

    respect to catechins and is widely used for its health benefits. Tea

    components, mainly catechins, and other polyphenolic compounds

    are used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. Certain com-

    ponents of tea are anti-oxidants as well as bacterial growth inhibi-

    tors. Susceptibility of tea towards S. epidermidis was evaluated. Tea

    showed bactericidal and inhibitory effects at an minimum bacterici-

    dal concentration (MBC) and MIC of 550 and 410 ppm, respec-

    tively. Gallocatechins and their gallates were claimed as the main

    constituents responsible for anti-bacterial activity [101], with anadditional effect on androgen receptors [64] that synergistically

    prevented and reduced body malodour. Furthermore, tea anti-bac-

    terial activity was enhanced (1117%) by irradiation at 40 kGy

    that resulted in the reduction in tea dark colour, enabling more

    applications in cosmetics [102].

    Furthermore, a mixture ofC. sinensis,Hibicus sabdariffa,Malva syl-

    vestris, Vitis viticola, Daucus carota, Commiphora myrrh, Simmondsia

    chinensis and Calendula officinalis was used to examine probiotic

    effects that inhibited the growth of odour-producing microbes. Mix-

    tures of these herbs were then incorporated into deodourant aerosols,

    gels, emulsions, sticks, creams, powders, soaps and lotions [103].

    Cassia alata (Senna alata) is also used as a traditional medicine to

    treat body odour [104, 105]. Its S. epidermidis inhibitory effect was

    compared with that of other medicinal plants used in Thailand.

    Cassia alata showed a moderate MIC and MBC (2500 and>5000 ppm), similar to Barleria lupulina, Lawsonia inermis and Psid-

    ium guajava. In the same study, Garcinia mangostana was found to

    be the most potent S. epidermidis inhibitor (MIC = 39 ppm), fol-

    lowed by H. sabdariffa and Eupatorium odoratum (MIC = 625 ppm,

    each) [106]. Hibicus sabdariffa was formulated into deodourant

    products [103].

    Chaenomeles speciosa is used in China because of its hepatoprotec-

    tive effect, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and anti-tumour activ-

    ities. The essential oil of this species contains b-caryophyllene as a

    major constituent (12.52%) and a moderate amount of linalool

    (1.33%). The compound was effective against several microorgan-

    isms including S. epidermidis ( MIC and MBC of 1570 and

    3130 ppm) when compared with standard treatments (e.g. levo-

    floxacin; MIC = 610, MBC = 1220 ppm) [107].

    Garlic is used for a number of infectious diseases and for its anti-bacterial activity, including inhibition of S. epidermidis. It was found

    that S. epidermidis was sensitive to garlic extract, particularly crude

    aqueous. The majority of S. epidermidis was killed by garlic (90

    93%) in 1 h, although resistance was found following 34 h of

    incubation [108]. Furthermore, the MIC and MBC of garlic juice

    were evaluated: the concentration was low, and the active

    compound was found to be equally active at a dilution factor of

    128. In addition to garlic, some vegetables and fruits play a role in

    S. epidermidis inhibition. For example, the MIC of pomegranate was

    found to be effective at a dilution factor of 16, whereas that of

    rhubarb was effective at a dilution factor of 4. In addition, beet,

    cherry, cranberry, red onion, red cabbage, raspberry and straw-

    berry inhibited S. epidermidis with a dilution factor of 2 [109].

    Ginkgo biloba leaf and Phellodendron amurens bark extracts were

    used as deodourants because of their inhibition of the degradation

    of the apoD-chelating odourant. The extracts could be effectively

    used at 0.120% ww)1

    , although the most commonly usedamount was 0.510% ww)1 [95].

    Gunnera perpensa, an herb traditionally used for psoriasis

    treatment, was purified, and benzoquinone, benzopyran (2-methyl-

    6-(3-methyl-2-butenyl)benzo-1,4-quinone and 6-hydroxy-8-methyl-

    2,2-dimethyl-2H-benzopyran) were isolated from leaves and stems.

    The isolated benzoquinone significantly inhibited the growth of

    microorganisms, particularly S. epidermidis, at an MIC of 9.8 ppm.

    Additionally, benzopyran showed moderate activity towards this

    microbe with an MIC of 187 ppm, whereas that of ciproflaxin was

    1.25 ppm [110].

    Resinous exudates from twigs and leaves of Haplopappus spp.

    were shown to inhibit S. epidermidis, with an inhibition zone of

    910 mm. Terpenoids in H. diplopappus, H. anthylloides, H. schuman-

    nii, H. cuneifolius, H. velutinus, H. uncinatus and H. foliosus were

    found to be effective, in combination with flavonoids in H. velutinusand H. foliosus [111].

    Harungana madagascariensis is well known for its topical anti-bac-

    terial properties and has been used to treat cutaneous mycoses

    because of its high levels of biologically active flavonoids, alkaloids,

    saponins, glycosides and tannins [112, 113]. Its in vitro inhibition

    of skin microflora was evaluated. Crude leaf extract, particularly

    the ethyl acetate fraction, was found to inhibit armpit- and foot

    odour-producing bacteria with MIC and MBC ranges of 25250

    and 100750 ppm, respectively. Furthermore, Corynebacterium

    xerosis was killed at 200 ppm, whereas the growth of S. epidermidis

    was inhibited at 250 ppm. This effect was mediated by flavanones

    (i.e. astilbin or 3-O-a-l-rhamnoside-5,7,3,4-tetrahydroxydihydrofl-

    avonol) [114].

    Furthermore, hop (Humulus lupulus L.) supercritical fluid extrac-

    tion was used to test related anti-microbial activity against odou-rant-producing bacteria. MIC and MBC of hop extract were found

    to be 6.25 and 25 ppm, respectively, against C. xerosis and 25 and

    >25 ppm, respectively, towards S. epidermidis. Deodourant-contain-

    ing hop extract (0.2%) was formulated and compared with the deo-

    dourant base. It was found that 0.2% hop deodourant inhibited

    C. xerosis four times more stronger than S. epidermidis (inhibition

    zone of 8, and 2 mm, respectively). In addition, axillary malodour

    decreased from 6.28 0.70 to 1.80 0.71, 1.82 0.74 and

    2.24 0.77 following 8, 12 and 24 h of application, respectively

    [115].

    Anti-bacterial activity of methanolic extract of Hypercicum perfo-

    ratum or St. Johns Wort against S. epidermidis had been reported at

    1000 ppm. Isolated hyperforin inhibited Corynebacterium diptheriae

    at 100 ppm [116].

    Anti-bacterial activity of lichen ethanol extract was evaluated. Itwas found that Cetrelia olivetorum (10 ppm), Lecanora muralis

    (10 ppm), Ramalina farinacea (10 ppm) and Rhizoplaca melanophth-

    alma (50 ppm) inhibited S. epidermidis with inhibition zones of 11,

    13, 10 and 16 mm, respectively, whereas those of tobramycin and

    cephalothin, standard antibiotics, were 18, and 20 mm, respec-

    tively [117]. In addition, lichen extract-containing usnic acid was

    found to inhibit body malodour microorganisms at an MIC of

    0.002% [118].

    Licorice root extract was used to formulate aerosol, roll-on,

    powder, cream, lotion, stick and detergent deodourants to control

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    axillary odour. The active ingredient, glycyrrhetic acid, was effec-

    tive at a concentration of 0.015% ww)1. The preparation

    comprised tannic acid, resorcin, phenol, sorbic acid and salicylic

    acid with odour-masking agents: musk, skatole, lemon oil, laven-

    der oil, absolute jasmine, vanillin, benzoin, benzyl acetate and

    menthol [119].

    Androstenone generation was inhibited >95% by incubation ofandrosterone sulphate with C. xerosis in the presence of 500 ppm

    of plant extracts. The suppressive effect of androstenone was fur-

    ther evaluated with lower concentrations of plant extracts (125

    and 62.5 ppm). Apricot (Prunus armeniaca) kernel extract was more

    effective than gentian, prune and triclosan, which was used as a

    positive control [120].

    Inhibition of isovaleric acid generation was screened by means

    of anti-microbial activity. Sophora flavescens significantly inhibited

    the growth of C. xerosis, eliminating malodour. Furthermore,

    S. flavescens showed broad-spectrum inhibition of resident skin

    microbes, mediated by flavonoids [121].

    Madder, or Rubia tinctorium, which is widely used as a natural

    dye and folkloric anti-bacterial in Turkey, was Soxhlet-extracted by

    ethanol and water, individually. The crude extracts (483 lg disc)1)

    were susceptibility tested against several bacteria including C. xero-sis. The aqueous extract exerted stronger activity against C. xerosis

    than the ethanolic fraction (inhibition zones were 12 and 7 mm,

    respectively), whereas the inhibition zone of ampicillin (10 mg), a

    standard, was 15 mm [122].

    Traditional astringent, and tonic Tamarix ramosissima or salt

    cedar rich in tannins, and phenolics potently inhibitedC. diphthe-

    riae. The ethyl acetate extract in particular displayed an MIC of

    25 ppm, whereas the butanoic extract isolated from tamarixetin

    showed lower activity at an MIC of 1000 ppm [123].

    Usnea barbata, Salvia officinalis, Rosmarinus officinalis, Boswellia

    serrata, Harpagophytum procumbens and Menyanthes trifoliata were

    screened against S. epidermidis and Corynebacterium spp. for anti-

    microbial activity. Usnea barbata was the strongest inhibitor with

    an MIC of 1 ppm, followed by R. officinalis with an MIC of 10

    and 2 ppm, respectively. Although B. serrata showed strongeractivity against Corynebacterium spp. (MIC = 110 ppm), its effect

    on S. epidermidis was reduced (MIC = 100 ppm). Harpagophytum

    procumbens had similar activity on the test microorganisms

    (MIC = 10 ppm; S. epidermidis, and 1020 ppm; Corynebacterium

    spp.). However, S. officinalis was the least effective anti-bacterial

    agent (MIC = 20 ppm; S. epidermidis, and 1020 ppm; Corynebacte-

    rium spp.). Isolated (+)-usnic and carnosic acid exhibited stronger

    activity than the crude extract. (+)-Usnic acid inhibited S. epidermi-

    dis at an MIC of 4 ppm, and Corynebacterium spp. at 48 ppm,

    whereas values for carnosic acid were 64 and 3264 ppm, respec-

    tively [124].

    Essential oils

    Abies cilicica, Cilician fir, is native to the Mediterranean region, andaffords resin traditionally used for antiseptic, anti-inflammatory,

    anti-pyretic and anti-bacterial applications in Turkey. Essential oil

    extracted from the cones was investigated on Gram-positive bacte-

    ria including C. xerosis; the oil showed a potent inhibitory effect

    with an MIC of 1.5 ppm. Aroma compounds in the oil were

    extracted; limonene was the most potent inhibitor ofC. xerosis with

    an MIC of 3 ppm. a-, and b-pinene as well as myrcene had an MIC

    of >8 ppm [125].

    Anethum graveolens oil inhibited Corynebacterium growth at 4.5,

    0.09, 0.04 and 0.02 lg filter paper disc)1 [126]. Staphylococcus

    epidermidis was inhibited by essential oil extracted from Anthemis

    aciphylla [127, 128]. Grammosciadium platycarpum oil was found to

    inhibit malodour-producing microorganisms: limonene inhibited

    S. epidermidis at an MIC of 6005000 ppm [129]. In addition,

    essential oils that inhibit Gram-positive bacteria may be applicable

    to control malodour [130].

    Hydrodistillation of essential oil from Inula helenium wasconducted. S. epidermidis was found to be inhibited by the oil

    (MIC = 3700 ppm, MIC of streptomycin = 60 ppm); alantolactone

    and isoalantolactone were reported as the main constituents [131].

    Melaleuca alternifolia or tea tree oil was also applicable in

    deodourants because it contains terpinen-4-ol, the active anti-

    microbial agent. The MIC and MBC against Corynebacterium spp.

    were found to be 0.5% and 2% (vv)1), respectively. In addition,

    it inhibited Staphylococcus spp. at an MIC and MBC of 0.5% and

    12% (vv)1), respectively, in particular S. epidermidis (MIC = 0.5%

    and MBC = 2% vv)1) [132].

    Coriander (Corriandrum sativum) oil inhibited micrococci and

    diphtheroids at an MIC of 0.1% because of its oxygenated terpe-

    noids. The lichen extracts and coriander oil could be incorporated

    into a stick deodourant at 0.13% and 1.06.0% ww)1, respec-

    tively, although the preferred amounts were 0.0380.42% and1.82.2% ww)1, respectively. In the same deodourant formulation,

    witch hazel, Aloe vera and chamomile extracts were additionally

    incorporated. This formulation absorbed moisture [118] and

    thereby inhibited microbial metabolism.

    Essential oils from commercialized spices such as oregano (Origa-

    num minutiflorum and O. onites), black thyme (Thymbra spicata) and

    savoury (Satureja cuneifolia), which contains cavracrol, were tested

    against C. xerosis. Inhibition was observed at the dilution range of

    1 : 501 : 200 [133]. Furthermore, Satureja species were distilled

    to obtain essential oils and evaluated with regard to their anti-

    microbial activities and chemical composition. Staphylococcus masu-

    kensis potently inhibited S. epidermidis, followed by Staphylococcus

    pseudosimensis and Staphylococcus biflora (MIC = 370, 750 and

    980 ppm, respectively). Linalool levels were highest in S. masuken-

    sis oil (4.44%); this compound was found to be the strongestinhibitor against S. epidermidis (MIC = 250 ppm), compared to

    caryophyllene oxide and pulegone (MIC = 900 and 950 ppm,

    respectively). The antibiotics amoxicillin with clavulanic acid and

    netilmicin had an MIC of 3 and 4 ppm, respectively [134]. There-

    fore, it could be concluded from this study that essential oils

    containing linalool, caryophyllene oxide and/or pulegone should be

    considered S. epidermidis growth inhibitors.

    In addition, essential oils from cumin (Cuminum cyminum), sweet

    fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), laurel (Laurus nobilis), mint (Mentha

    spicata), marjoram (O. majorana), pickling herb (Echinophoria tenuifoli),

    sage (Salvia aucheri) and thyme (T. sintenesi) were found to inhibit

    C. xerosis at the oil concentration of 0.22% [135]. Anti-oxidant and

    anti-bacterial activities of Salvia eremophila extracts were analysed by

    means of hydrodistillation and Soxhlet extraction in methanol to

    obtain essential oil and crude methanol extract, respectively. Freeradical scavenging and lipid peroxidation inhibitory activities of crude

    methanol were more potent than those of the essential oil. However,

    the inhibitory effect of essential oil that contained linalool was greater

    than methanol extract against S. epidermidis (MIC = 125, and

    250 ppm, respectively); activity towards P. vulgaris was relatively low

    (MIC = 500, and 125 ppm, respectively) [136]. The anti-bacterial

    activity of thyme oil prepared at different developmental stages

    was compared. Essential oil prepared from thyme (Thymus caramani-

    cus) at floral budding, and flowering states showed two-fold greater

    S. epidermidisinhibition (MIC = 900 ppm) than essential oil from seed

    2011 The Authors

    ICS 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francaise de Cosmetolog ie

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 3 3, 298311306

    Body malodours and treatment agents M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

  • 7/25/2019 Body Malodours and Their Topical Treatment Agents

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    and vegetative stages (MIC = 1800 ppm). Cavacrol inhibited S. epide-

    rmidis at an MIC of 0.22 lL (of 70% carvacrol solution in methanol).

    The flowering stage of T. caramanicus development yielded compounds

    that were the most potent (68.9%), followed by floral budding

    (66.9%), seed (60.2%) and vegetative (58.9%) stages [137].

    The essential oil of Semenovia tragioides, which is an endemic

    plant with highly flavoured leaves that are frequently used in jam,and pickles in Iran, was prepared and tested against S. epidermis.

    Its MIC was found to be 2000 ppm compared with an MIC of

    500 ppm for rifampin and gentamicin, which were used as positive

    controls. A lipid peroxidation inhibitory effect was also observed (%

    inhibition = 9.1 0.3; 0.7 mg of test sample), although it was less

    potent than that of the positive control (BHT = 95.6 1.3%).

    Chemical composition analysis revealed anti-bacterial effects of

    linalool 5.7 1% together with lavandulyl acetate and geranyl

    acetate [138]. In addition to S. tragioides oil, essential oils from two

    cultivars of Sideritis erythrantha (erythrantha, and cedretorum culti-

    vars) were evaluated on S. epidermidis. The cedretorum cultivar,

    which elicited greater anti-oxidant effects by means of 1,1-diphe-

    nyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radicals (DPPH), b-carotene bleaching and

    reducing power assays, showed stronger S. epidermidis inhibition

    than the other cultivar. However, the cedretorum cultivar showedgood anti-bacterial activity (10.00 0.24 mm at 10lL) compared

    to vancomycin (10.00 0.24 mm at 30 lg). In addition, the more

    potent cultivar contained higher amounts of pulegone. However,

    linalool content was similar [139]. Therefore, anti-bacterial activity

    was consistent with the description of linalool and pulegone

    reported previously [140].

    Smyrniopsis aucheri oil containing a-bisabolol (19.91%), widely

    used in cosmetics including underarm deodourants, as well as

    a- and b-pinene (15.10% and 6.58%), was found to potently inhi-

    bit S. epidermidis [141].

    Staphylococcus epidermidis was inhibited by essential oil extracted

    fromZiziphora clinopodioidesat 10-lL filter paper disc)1 [127] with an

    MIC of 601000 ppm [128]. Ziziphora clinopodioides oil (10 lg)

    contained (+)-pulegone (31.86%) 1,8-cineole (12.21%) and limonene

    (10.48%) as the major aroma compounds and inhibited Corynebacte-rium spp. at an MIC of 15.6031.25 ppm, whereas its methanolic

    extract showed less activity (MIC = 250 ppm) [142]. In addition,

    Ziziphora persica oil containing high levels of (+)-pulegone (79.33%)

    but low levels of limonene (6.78%), and no 1,8-cineole exhibited

    a wide range of Corynebacterium spp. inhibition (MIC = 250

    7.81 ppm); its methanolic extract showed the same activity [143].

    Essential oils and the aromatic compounds contained therein

    should be incorporated into anti-perspirant and deodourant prod-

    ucts. Linalool and dihydromyrcenol were combined at a ratio of

    4 : 11 : 4 in body odour-controlling products. The concentration

    of aroma compounds ranged from 0.2% to 1% (ww)1). Further-

    more, avocado and vegetable oils as well as lichen extract were

    added, for their soothing effects [144]. Essential oils also mask

    unexpected odours and exert bactericidal effects.

    Vegetable and animal oils incorporated in a deodourizingemulsion were as follows: sweet almond, groundnut, wheatgerm,

    linseed, jojoba, apricot stone, walnut, palm, pistachio, sesame, rape-

    seed, cade, maize germ, peach stone, poppy seed, pine, castor, soya,

    avocado, safflower seed, coconut, hazelnut, olive, grapeseed, sun-

    flower, whale lard, horsehoof, tuna, caballine, otter, egg, sheep,

    seal, turtle, halibut liver, marmot, cod liver, neat-foot and carbon

    oils. The combination of these oils in the emulsion was stable and

    washable with conventional detergents [145].In addition to the above herbs, those with astringency, and folk-

    loric use as tonics should be applicable for body odour control.

    Adiantum capillus, Bergenia ciliate, Bombax ceiba, Cannabis sativa,

    Cynodon dactylon, Cyperus rotundus, Dalbergia sissoo, Dodonaea

    viscose, Fumaria indica, Juglans regia, Olea ferruginea, Phyla nodiflora,

    Punica granatum, Pyrus pashia, Rumex chalepensis, Sapindus mukoros-

    si, Solanum miniatum and Woodfordia fruticosa were recently investi-

    gated because of their ethnopharmacological uses in folk cosmetics

    in Pakistan [146]. In particular, Pinus roxburghii was used as a

    traditional deodourant [147]. Furthermore, Cassia occidentalis, an

    Ayurvedic plant, contains flavonoids (particularly apigenin, flav-

    ones, alkaloids, tannins and saponins) with biological activity

    including C. diphtheriae inhibition that is applicable to deodourant

    development [106].

    In addition, some of the traditionally used herbs might be appli-cable for body malodour treatment product development because of

    their S. epidermidis inhibitory effect. For instance, Bersama abyssini-

    ca, Erlangea cordifolia, Hoslundia opposite, Lantana trifolia, Phyllanthus

    guineense, Physalis peruviana, Podocarpus milanjianus, Rubus apetalus,

    Steganotaenia araliacea and Vernonia auriculifera that are traditionally

    used for their anti-microbial activity in Africa [147].

    Conclusions

    Body or axillary odour is offensive chemical communication that

    strongly adheres to clothes and shoe fibres (remaining even after

    laundering), negatively impacting ones self-confidence. Topical com-

    pounds that inhibit microorganisms growth or bacteria enzyme reac-

    tions, absorb sweat and malodour, neutralize odours, and/or limit

    sweat secretion have been discussed in this review in terms of theirability to reduce malodour. These ingredients are natural, naturally

    derived and synthetic in nature. Research involving the use of fra-

    grance precursors as alternative substrates to bacteria enzymes has

    also been discussed. Using this approach, bacteria enzymes catalyse

    the release of pleasant, aromatic scents vs. unpleasant malodour-

    leaving the natural skin flora unaltered. Although some deodourant

    products can irritate the skin with long-term use, the many options

    described in this review present a plethora of choices that have mini-

    mal safety or skin irritation concerns.

    Acknowledgements

    The authors acknowledge Mae Fah Luang University on facility

    support for this manuscript preparation and the reviewers on their

    valuable suggestions that make the article more comprehensive.

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