Block Island: Close to Home, A World Away

BLOCK ISLAND2009

Block Island Tourism Council

Complimentary

Close To Home, A World Away

Close To Home, A World Away 3 www.blockislandinfo.com

Block Island Is a specIal place. In 1991 The nature conservancy named it “one of the last great places in the Western Hemisphere.” With 43 percent of Block

Island preserved forever as open space, it is easy to find your own special part of the Island.

There are 17 miles of beaches and many hiking trails that of-fer up-close experiences with wildlife. The harbors and ponds are unique places to explore on kayaks or boats.

The fall and spring are great times to visit and enjoy the many activities the Island has to offer. During this time the crowds are few, and visitors enjoy a sense of quiet and solitude that leads many to re-turn to Block Island again and again. There are roads lined with stone walls and beautiful scenery for bicyclists; two historic lighthouses to explore; great fishing spots where anglers can watch an amazing sunset over the ocean; trails for hikers and bird-watchers; and miles of beautiful beaches perfect for a quiet walk.

With ferry docks within a short drive for many visitors, you will find that Block Island is a perfect getaway for the day, the weekend, or even longer. Choose to stay at a historic hotel, a quaint inn, a cozy bed-and-breakfast or a unique home for the whole family. Come to experience a relaxed atmosphere and a friendly community.

Over the following pages, you will meet some fellow Islanders, who will introduce you to this unique place that we call home. All of us cordially invite you to visit Block Island. I am confident that your first visit will not be your last.

John CullenPresident

Block Island Tourism Council

WHen you sTep onTo Block Island you’ll find a place that includes not only rare birds, fantastic beaches and miles of hiking trails, but also a close, caring commu-nity.

I grew up here and have witnessed many changes; but one thing that has remained the same all these years is the people. according to our annual unofficial Groundhog Day census, there are 992 year-round residents who live, work and play together.

Just like communities across the country, my neighbors run businesses, send their children to school and offer directions to the passing tourist. But unlike residents of communities else-where, these 992 residents wear many, many hats.

It’s not unusual to see the taxi-cab driver who picked you up at the ferry serve you lobster at one of the Island’s many restaurants, or to notice the school bus driver lead-ing a nature walk on the Greenway trails. You’ll find this interdependence creates a sense of community unrivaled anywhere else.

You’ll also find that this community — my neighbors — cares. They deeply care about each other, about the en-vironment around them and about those coming to enjoy this Island. Perhaps that’s why we’re so proud to show off this Island gem to the world.

For while this Island holds a special place in the natural world, it is the people who create its special sense of place. I encourage you to come visit, meet my neighbors and cre-ate your own memories.

Kim GaffettFirst Warden

Town of New Shoreham

Cover photo: The Mohegan Bluffs provide stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. Photo by Cindy Wilson

Welcome To Block Island, Our Home

Photo by Keith Lang

4 Close To Home, A World Away www.blockislandinfo.com

866.783.7996

* reservation required for vehicle transportation

Departs Daily From Point JudithSeasonal Service From Newport

Follow The Leader

PassengerBikes Cars*

Trucks*Freight

www.blockislandferry.com

30 MinuteHi-Speed Ferry

to Block Island

60 Minute Traditional Ferryto Block Island

Largest FleetBest ScheduleVehicles Welcome*

Year Round Service

401-466-2611

Available online @: blockislandgolddiggers.com

Off the coast of the Northeast mainland lies an island like no other ... an island that promotes a carefree

laid-back, flip-flop and shorts atmosphere where not a single palm tree grows! The Block Island Hook

Bracelet™ captures the spirit and style of this island and her stunning vistas, diverse ecosystem and

deep nautical heritage. The Block Island Southeast Light is forged into a precious metal “B,” which is

hooked by an “I” in the likeness of a fouled anchor, with the union of the two symbolizing the hook

that Block Island has on the hearts of millions. The distinctive shape of the island adorns the design

as well as 10 wraps of 14–karat gold signifying the 10 square miles of enchanting beauty

that awaits each and every soul. The Block Island Hook Bracelet™ is a true symbolic

treasure that is sure to remind of the days, weeks or lifetime of weeks cherished while in the

embrace of Block Island. Wear the memories...and

relive them...each time you glance at your wrist.

The original BLOCK ISLANDHook Bracelet™ is here!

RECOGNIZED BY LOCALS AND LOYAL VISITORS ALIKE AS THE SYMBOLIC TREASURE OF BLOCK ISLAND!

Chapel Street & Weldon’s Way

P.O. Box 693, Block Island, RI 02807

*a portion of all sales donated to island nonprofits

*Listed as “One of 10 Places Not To Miss On

Block Island” by New England Tourism Council!


Block Island: Close To Home, A World Away is a publication produced jointly by the Block Island

Tourism Council and the Block Island Times.

The Block Island Tourism CouncilWater Street, Box 356, Block Island, RI 02807

www.blockislandinfo.comPresident John Cullen

Vice President Brad Marthens2nd Vice President Zena Clark

Secretary Ted MerrittTreasurer Martha Ball

Members Shirley Kessler, Ed McGovernExecutive Director Jessica K. Willi

The Block Island TimesOcean Avenue, Box 278, Block Island, RI 02807

Phone: (401) 466-2222 Fax: (401) 466-8804www.blockislandtimes.com

Co-publishers Fraser and Betty LangAssociate Publisher Ian Lang

Editor Chris BarrettProduction SmallHouse Design

(c) 2009 Block Island Tourism Council & Block Island Times

BLOCK ISLAND special Features departments3 WElCoME To bloCK iSlAnD, our hoME Tourism Council President John

Cullen and First Warden Kim Gaffett welcome you to Block Island.

7 bloCK iSlAnD bECKonS As one of America’s last great places,

Block Island is worth a trip from any-where.

8 GETTinG hErE Making your way to the island is

easier than you might think.9 KnoW ThE iSlAnD Once on-island your time’s your own,

but here is some helpful information to help you get around.

22 A WinTEr WonDErlAnD34 hiGhliGhTS For 2009 What to do and see. 35 iSlAnD MAP All the island sights you need to see.36 bloCK iSlAnD ACCoMMoDATionS All the places to rest your head.37 bloCK iSlAnD rESTAurAnTS Where to eat on your visit.38 WEDDinGS AnD ConFErEnCES Beautiful places to get married and

gorgeous meeting rooms.

BEACHES 10 bloCK iSlAnD bEAChES12 A Tour oF iSlAnD bEAChES13 MAP oF iSlAnD bEAChES

NATurE 15 A nATurAl WonDEr16 nATurE hiGhliGhTS17 birDinG TAKES FliGhT

BoATiNg/FiSHiNg 18 oCEAn ADVEnTurES20 boATinG inForMATion21 FiShinG on bloCK iSlAnD

SHoppiNg23 A ShoPPEr’S hEAVEn24 bloCK iSlAnD ShoPPinG

inForMATion

HiSTory 26 A hiSToriC PlACE28 hiSToriC hiGhliGhTS29 ShiPWrECKS

ArT 31 CrEATiVE iSlE32 ArT inForMATion33 ThE norTh liGhT on ThE

ADriATiC

SPONSORS: Block Island Beers, Old Harbor Outfitters, The Atlantic Inn,

Ballard Hall Real Estate, Block Island Express, Eli’s Restaurant, Golddiggers–Block Island Jewelers, Interstate Navigation

(Photo credits clockwise from top left: John Fuller, Michael Melford, Celeste Sloman, Kristen Langdon Cohen, Michael Melford)


Sandy ShoresA short walk from the hustle and bustle of downtown, Fred benson Town beach is one of the many beaches you’ll discover on block island, all of which are free and open to the public.Photo by Michael Melford


THIrTeen mIles oFF THe coasT oF rHode Island, surrounded by 17 miles of pristine beaches and home to a diverse wildlife population, Block Island stands as a paradise for exploration, fun, relaxation and adventure. Whether you’re looking to play in the sand, hike the miles of nature trails or enjoy a fine-dining expe-rience, Block Island is your destination. This year you don’t have to take an in-ternational flight or spend a fortune to get a taste of paradise. For the cost of a ferry ticket, you’ll discover a different world, culture and pace of life.

The nature conservancy has called Block Island “one of the last great places in the Western Hemisphere.” and for good reason. Whether you visit in the spring, summer or fall, an island paradise awaits.

Here is a place that moves at its own pace and is known for a relaxed way of life. Here is where “dressed up” means a pair of shorts. Here is where locals greet each other by name at the post office. And here is where you can shed your whole way of life for a while.

particularly in the spring and fall, this tight-knit Island is far removed from the hustle and bustle of daily life. It’s a place where you can enjoy a hike, take in a sunset, or build a sand castle. you have the time to finish a novel you always meant to read and take an afternoon nap.

For the more adventurous, catch a wave on one of our many public beaches, or rent a bicycle or moped and discover the hid-den corners of the Island. at the end of the day, enjoy a fine meal at one of the Island’s 30 dining establishments, many with views of the atlantic ocean.

In the following pages, you’ll meet some of the Island’s nearly 1,000 year-round resi-dents that form this cozy, welcoming com-munity. They’ll tell you about the Island’s natural wonders, sandy beaches, extensive shopping, beautiful art, boating and fishing opportunities and rich history.

That history extends back thousands of

years when a melting glacier left rolling hills and ponds behind to form an island like no other. even centuries ago, people recognized its exceptional characteristics. For hundreds of years the narragansett tribe made this home and called it “man-isses,” or “Island of the Little God.” When Florentine explorer Giovanni da Verrazano sighted the Island in 1524 he thought it so beautiful that he named it “claudia” after the dowager queen of France.

In 1614, dutch navigator and trader Adrian Block, who is perhaps best known for being the first European to discover manhattan, mapped the Island and lent his name to the land. In 1636 massachu-setts claimed the Island and sold it to four businessmen in 1658. They, in turn, sold the Island in 1660 to 16 men for 400 pounds. some of them landed a year later and established a settlement that would join rhode Island in 1664. eight years later they would incorporate the Island’s first — and only — town, selecting the name New Shoreham. These colonists would become the first of thousands of visitors drawn to the Block Island experience.

What began as a fishing village soon became the destination both for the rich and famous and for others just looking to get away from it all. Presidents have visited, movie stars have vacationed here, and the supreme court once held session at an Island hotel. They have come here for the same reason that many others have traveled to these shores: a desire to step back in time and reconnect with oneself and the natural world.

Today’s modern transportation system makes it easy and affordable to reach the Island via ferry or plane. While thousands of people visit Block Island every year, you’ll find there’s still plenty of space to discover your own special corner of para-dise. and no matter if you spend a day, a week or a month you’ll find a true “sense of place” unlike anywhere else in the country, or dare we say, even the world.

BLOCK ISLANDBECKONS

one of the last great places


By FerryBlock Island Ferry provides year-round service from Point Judith, R.I. This is the only ferry that can take vehicles to the Is-land, and reservations for them are required. Passengers do not need reservations. (304 Great Island Road, Narragansett, R.I.) In the summer months addi-tional service is provided to and from Fort Adams State Park in Newport, R.I. (1 Lincoln Drive, Newport, R.I.) For schedules and more information call (866) 783-7996 or visit www.blockis-landferry.com.Block Island Hi-Speed Ferry is a state-of-the-art high-speed catamaran. This ferry runs from mid-May through mid-October. The ferry departs from the State Pier in Point Judith, R.I. and docks in Old Harbor in 30 minutes. (304 Great Island Road, Narragansett, R.I.) For schedules and more informa-tion call (866) 783-7996 or visit www.blockislandferry.com.

Block Island Express con-nects New London, Conn. and Old Harbor, Block Island in just over one hour on a high-speed catamaran. The terminal in New London is located next to the Amtrak train station. Parking is available in a municipal garage across the street and at the terminal. This ferry runs May through September. (2 Ferry St., New London, Conn.) For schedules and more informa-tion call (860) 444-4624 or visit www.goblockisland.com.Montauk Ferry runs between the tip of Long Island and Block Island during the summer. The trip takes just under two hours on a high-speed air-conditioned vessel that accommodates passengers, bicycles and surf-boards. (462 West Lake Drive, Montauk, N.Y. ) For schedules and more information call (631) 668-5700 or visit www.viking-fleet.com.

By private BoatMany visitors reach Block

Island by way of their own boats, docking at the marinas or anchoring in either the Old or New harbors.

By Commuter planeNew England Airlines has

provided daily scheduled air ser-vice to Block Island since 1970. Flights depart Westerly, R.I. The airport is located just off Inter-state 95 and is an easy drive or train ride from anywhere in New England. (Amtrak serves West-erly with daily trains between Washington/New York and Boston.) Flight time between Westerly and Block Island is 12 minutes. (56 Airport Road, Westerly, R.I.) For schedules and more information call (800) 243-2460 or visit www.block-island.com/nea.

By private planeBlock Island State Airport

welcomes private planes. The one-lane runway accommodates prop planes and small jets. There is no control tower, but pilots should announce them-selves on frequency 123.00.

Landing is free for Rhode Island-registered aircraft. Landing fees for non-Rhode Island registered aircraft range from $15 to $25 depending on the type of aircraft. Overnight outside plane parking is avail-able and is $15 for single-engine planes and $20 for light planes. For more information check the Airport Facility Directory for the Northeast or call airport manager Landmark Aviation at (401) 466-5511.

GETTING HEREIt’s easy to reach Block Island. More than 20 million people are within a four-hour drive of either the ferries or airline that bring visitors to Block Island, and 10 million can reach a ferry or airplane in less than two hours. Ferries leave from Point Judith in Narragansett, Rhode Island; New London, Connecti-cut and Montauk on the tip of Long Island, New York. Planes leave from Westerly, Rhode Island. Or you can fly in or sail your own boat.

Photo by Michael M

elford


KNOW THE ISLANDOnce you’re on Block Island here’s what you need to know. The information below will help you get around, engage in a friendly dinner conversation and maybe even sound like a local. When you visit, you’ll quickly learn that Block Island is a community made up of very special people living in a very special place. Nothing beats coming here and experiencing it personally, but below are some of the basics to get you primed before your visit.

getting AroundWalk. The sneaker express is an easy way to enjoy the shops, restaurants and hotels in Old Harbor. A 15-minute walk from the ferry will bring you to the main beach.Bike. Bicycles are an afford-able and enjoyable way to ex-plore the Island. Rental stands offer bikes to fit the needs of the entire family. Or bring your own over on the ferry.Mopeds. Mopeds can be rented around the Island, and can accommodate one or two passengers. Mopeds may be driven on all paved Island roads, but are not allowed on dirt roads. Taxi. Taxi service is available Island-wide. A taxi stand is lo-cated by the ferry docks in Old Harbor, and taxis regularly wait for customers at New Harbor. Most can hold parties of five or more and offer Island tours as well as getting you from here to there.

Personal Vehicle. Depend-ing on your itinerary, you may or may not require a vehicle while here. In the busy summer months, keeping the number of cars on-Island to a minimum is encouraged. However, the spring and fall provide com-paratively empty roads.

The FactsOfficial Name Town of New Shoreham, incorporated 1672Area 7 miles long and 3 miles wide, Block Island is shaped like a pork chop and covers 6,000 acresLocation 13 miles off the southern coast of Rhode IslandPopulation About 1,000 year round and swells to 15,000 to 20,000 in the sum-merPonds 365 freshwater ponds, one for every day of the yearStone walls 300-400 miles of human-made stone wallsNature Trails 28 miles of trails

Open Space 43 percent of the Island is preserved open spaceEducation One public school with about 140 students in grades K-12Weather50-60° in the spring and fall65-80° in the summer25-40° in the winter

Street AddressesBlock Island is a special

place with its own little quirks. Because the U.S. Postal Ser-vice delivers only to the Island post office, street addresses do not exist. Instead, all build-ings have fire numbers. They are non-sequential, however, and should not be relied on for directions. Instead, use the map included in this magazine or one of many available here once you arrive.

Photo by Cindy W

ilson

More infoVisitor infob.i. Welcome Center (800) 383-biriwww.blockislandinfo.comwww.blockislandchamber.comSouth County Tourism Council (401) 789-4422www.southcountyri.comr.i. Tourism Council (800) 250-7384www.visitrhodeisland.comTransportation b.i. Airport (800) 243-2460new England Airlines (401) 596-2460b.i. harbormaster(401) 466-3204Point Judith, r.i. ferry (866) 783-7996new london, Conn. ferry(860) 444-4624Montauk, n.Y. ferry(631) 668-5700EmergencyAll emergencies 911b.i. Medical Center(401) 466-2974Police (nonemergency)(401) 466-3220Fire Department/rescue Squad(401) 466-3220Animal Control officer(401) 466-3220Coast Guard (block island)(401) 466-2086Coast Guard (Galilee, r.i.)(401) 789-0444


BLOCKISLAND

BEACHES17 miles of sandy fun

I LOVE THE BEACHES Here, plain and simple. I visit them frequently with my family, and over the years have discov-ered how the seasons change the dynamic of these special places that provide recreation for visitors and play an impor-tant role in our ecosystem.

a fall day on the beach brings plenty of sunshine and light wind. The perfect Indian summer day is always a pos-sibility, and the temperature averages in the mid 60s. By mid-afternoon, it’s a perfect time for an outdoor adventure on a west-facing beach exposed to the warmth of the descend-ing sun. aside from enjoying the tranquility of the beach, you can walk the shore, gather beach treasures and explore the tide pools exposed at low tide.

The water is still warm from the summer season and noth-ing finishes the day better than a dip in the ocean. With the water clean and clear, one can see the bottom and the designs the water has created in the sand.

Due to the warming effects of the ocean, spring on the Island is filled with days of above-average temperatures even during april school vacations and Easter weekend. spring is a great time to plan the first of many family days at the beach. shoes can be dis-carded upon arrival; the sand is typically warm to bare feet, especially the iron-rich sand found along the toe of many of the Island’s dunes. retreat-ing tides and long-gone winter storms uncover a plethora of treasures, including hard-to-find sand dollars.

Kids, with nothing but their imaginations and the sheer joy of a warm spring day outdoors, can run and expend energy and play in the gentle waves along crescent Beach or in the tide pools of mohegan Bluffs. Grownups can walk leisurely

and embrace the much-needed time to reconnect and catch up on gossip, revitalize in the sea air, take a stroll or simply daydream.

personally, I love spending the hours before the sun sets into the Block Island sound collecting treasures like rocks for skipping and painting, worn driftwood to make mobiles, clam shells, lobster claws, and various other mysterious items washed ashore. The wrack line, where the tide stops and de-posits its day’s load of flotsam and jetsam, can be a virtual jackpot for the keen observer.

on a later excursion, head to the shores of the Great salt pond. during the colder months, the Great Salt Pond is loaded with seals. Harp, harbor and gray seals can be seen in the water and on the rocky shores. They are curious creatures; their heads bob up and down in the gentle waves as they watch visitors on the shore.

Along with the seals are a variety of wintering seabirds gathered in rafts in the pond. species include mergansers, loons, buffleheads, grebes, goldeneyes and eiders. a coastal walk at the north end of the Island, at the Block Island Wildlife refuge, in the fall finds waterbirds seeking refuge in sachem pond and the pro-tective waters of Cow Cove.

so check the boat schedule and come to the Island. Then check the wind direction and the tide chart and choose any of the beaches surrounding the Island, all accessible to the public. dress in layers, and bring a change of clothes as the kids always end up in the tide pools.

Corrie heinzPresidentCommittee for the Great Salt Pond

Photo by Chris Barrett


The majestic Mohegan Bluffs on the southeast side of the Island are one of the Island’s enduring vistas. You’ll find Block Island beaches provide plenty of oppor-tunities for relaxing, swimming, fishing or simple sightseeing. Photo by Michael Melford

The original Native American name for Block Island is “Manisses,” meaning “Island of the Little God.” Later, Dutch explorer Adrian Block saw these shores and the island was named for him.

DiD you KNoW?


BloCK iSlAND BEACHES

1. Cow Cove is a rocky beach by Settlers rock. This area offers majestic views of the mainland coast and nearby north light. This is not a place for swimming because of a strong riptide; and the beach is used as a nesting area by many rare birds. 2. Mansion Beach is at the end of a dirt road with the same name. The island’s biggest home once sat like a jewel on a hill overlooking Jerry’s Point. Fire destroyed the home, and it was not rebuilt. however, the beach fits its name by being block island’s grandest.3. Scotch Beach is a quarter mile north of Fred benson Town beach and part of Crescent beach. Scotch is a sandbox for big kids, the favorite beach of the island summer workers. For those who enjoy a hotly contested game of volleyball, this is the place to go to challenge the locals. There is a small parking lot just west of the beach.4. Fred Benson Town Beach is home to block island’s fully equipped bathhouse. once called State beach, it is now operated by the town. Town beach is staffed with lifeguards in summer and the pavilion offers showers, lockers, food and rental items. it is a segment of a beach known collectively as Crescent beach.5. Baby Beach, though not its official name, is a well-shel-tered beachfront at the south end of Crescent beach where children can play in shallow waters, catch small crabs, find mussels, wrestle with seaweed and maybe find a sand dollar or starfish. Adults can wade out for a swim in deeper waters. its location close to town may be the primary reason that so many adults bring their little ones here in summer.6. Ballard’s Beach is the other beach staffed with life-guards in the summer. This deep-sand beach, located on the south side of the old harbor breakwater and behind ballard’s restaurant, is a popular choice for volleyball, swimming and sunbathing.7. Mohegan Bluffs beachfront can be found at the foot of the steps that descend from the Mohegan bluffs. The beach is a favorite of surfers.8. Vaill Beach is a large beach at the bottom of a hollow. You’ll find the path to the beach at the bend in Snake hole road. At the base of the trail, turn left; Vaill begins past 50

yards of rocky and sandy terrain. The surf here can be quite rough, and rocks line the shallows, so swimmers should exercise caution. The sand on this south-shore beach can be patchy, depending on previous weather conditions, but typi-cally you’ll find some deep sands. hike westward and you’ll feel like you’ve discovered a rocky paradise.9. Black Rock is a gorgeous setting. There are beaches and a series of coves at the base of the cliffs. Sandy stretches are hard to find and swimming is difficult. This area is named after a large, dark rock in about 15 feet of water that has been the demise of many ships. You’ll want to walk or bike there.10. Mosquito Beach, or “dinghy beach,” across from Scotch beach provides a place for boaters in new harbor to leave their dinghies or rafts. The spot off Corn neck road also offers majestic views of the Great Salt Pond and a perfect photo backdrop.11. Andy’s Way is at the end of a dirt road bearing the same name. The beach on the Great Salt Pond provides a place to pull up a dinghy or take a stroll. To the north is beane Point, a u.S. Fish and Wildlife property that many rare birds call home. Andy’s Way is also the premier clamming spot on the island.12. West Beach presents a truly different experience. The beach here is lightly trafficked, has gentle surf and offers perhaps the island’s best beach walk. To the north is an un-developed stretch backed by dunes that leads the way to the north light. 13. Coast Guard Beach at the end of Champlin road re-ceives its name from the nearby former Coast Guard Station. not a location for swimming, the beach is a favorite of families clamming, fishermen looking to hook fish and boat lovers watching the sailboats and yachts pull into new harbor.14. Charlestown Beach is a popular beach with the fisher-men, especially along the jetty at its north end. For beachgo-ers, the jetty is a challenging walk. The beach is typically uncrowded and peaceful. From here you can watch sail and power boats enter new harbor, and view the grounds of the former Coast Guard Station, which is now town-owned. 15a. Grace’s, 15b. Dorry’s and 15c. Cooneymus Coves are secluded beaches on the west side of the island. They are all great places for a nap or sunset gazing. The water is usually calm, and hikes in either direction from each of them are challenging.


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Running for the Sprayone of the many marked trails that provide access to the clear waters of the Atlantic while protecting the island’s natural dunes.Photo by Michael Melford

In the spring hundreds of endangered piping plovers stop on the shores of Block Island as they make their way north. Block Island provides not only a welcome rest stop, but a safe haven for these shorebirds with their distinct yellow legs and their short orange bill. For more information on the Island’s diverse bird population turn to page 17.

DiD you KNoW?

15b

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Steps to NatureThe staircase leading down the Mohegan bluffs to the beach below. Photo by Michael Melford

In the fall, the Block Island Gardeners plant daffodil bulbs around the Island. In the spring, thousands of daffodils bloom and create a sea of yellow and white for all to enjoy.

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A NATURAL WONDER

With 43 percent of the Island preserved forever as open space, it’s no surprise that organizations from around the world have recognized Block Island’s natural wonders as some of the most beautiful and prestigious in the hemisphere. But don’t take our

word for it. Come visit and you’ll be amazed.

THe naTural World on Block Island is unique on the east coast. While this

Island is small, only about 6,000 acres, a lot is packed into this area. There is an incredible diversity of birds, in-sects, plants, sea life and habitats that can all be found coexisting.

Block Island is also in the flight path of many migratory songbirds making their first trip south in the fall. Birding in the fall is one of my favorite things to do because you never know what will show up. I have birded all over the world and, for my money, there is no place more fun to bird-watch than Block Island in the fall.

This is especially true when a northwest wind blows and the birds “fallout” on the Island. In addition to the songbirds, it is always exciting to locate migrating raptors like the peregrine falcon, merlin and cooper’s hawk soaring over the Island looking for a quick meal.

In the winter, the marine mammal displays are spectacular. you can ob-serve seals sitting on the rocks, watch harbor porpoises jumping out of the water from the ferry; and maybe even spot whales spouting off the south side of the Island. It never gets old to see these wonderful creatures make their presence known.

In the spring, the diversity of life on the Island awakens from its winter slumber. you can hear the deafening call of the spring peeper, watch the mating ritual of the American wood-cock and see plants starting to leaf out and bloom. No matter where you are on Block Island in the spring, the

natural world is all around you.Block Island is easy to explore

with 28 miles of walking trails that lead throughout the Island, allowing everyone to enjoy the many differ-ent habitats found here. These trails, combined with the public roads and the beaches, provide unprec-edented access to much of the Island.

I have spent many years observing the natural world on Block Island, and continue to see and learn new things every day. one of the greatest things about living or spending time on this Island is how connected you feel to the world around you. It is only through experiencing the nature of Block Island that you can tap into the true essence of this amazing place.

Scott ComingsDirectorBlock Island ProgramThe Nature Conservancy


Clay Head Nature Trail is reached via a dirt road leading off corn neck road, across from a yellow Victorian house, just two miles north of the town beach pavilion. A para-dise for walkers, Clay Head Trail leads to the northeastern shore of the Island and me-anders along the scenic bluffs of clay Head for more than a mile until it reaches settlers rock. Branching off the main trail are several other trails, which have given the area the nickname “the Maze.” One such trail leads directly to the beach north of Jerry’s point where you can still see rem-nants of the glacial formation called “pots & kettles.”Rodman’s Hollow, named af-ter an early Island doctor, is a

wild and beautiful cleft in the rolling terrain left from a melt-ing glacier. The hollow is the haunt of hawks, white-tailed deer and several rare species of wildflowers. In the 1960s, developers bought it and proposed building a dozen houses on the slopes. This so alarmed Island residents that they formed the Block Island Conservancy, with the late Captain Rob Lewis as their leader, and raised enough money to buy it back so that it could be forever wild. Walk-ing trails lead to Black rock Beach.Black Rock, which gives the area its name, is a popular surfing and fishing spot. located in about 15 feet of water, about 150 feet offshore, the rock itself is only visible in extreme low tide. When swells expose the rock, it is said to resemble a huge black whale. Today, waters around Black rock attract striped bass and bluefish, but in years past, ships were known to meet their doom here. The Jacob S. Winslow, a four-masted

schooner, struck Black rock on march 1, 1914. The timber from the ship strewn on the beach was salvaged and used to build a barn on Lewis Farm and the original electric plant.Mohegan Bluffs, to the west of the southeast lighthouse, provide a magnificent view of the southern coast and its high cliffs, with Montauk, N.Y. often visible 20 miles away. At Payne Overlook, you’ll find a wooden stairway that was built with funding from the Rhode Island department of envi-ronmental management. It is a difficult climb, and the footing at the bottom is extremely challenging, but the climb is worth it. Be careful though, since swimming conditions

at the beach are sometimes dangerous.Abrams’ Animal Farm has a diverse collection of exotic and domestic animals main-tained by Justin abrams and family, owners of the 1661 Inn and Hotel manisses. The small farm between Spring and High streets is home to camels, llamas, emus, sheep, donkeys, goats, swans and ducks. Visitors can view and pet the animals. Here you’ll also see the Hotel manisses’ extensive garden. open to the public from dawn to dusk.Ocean View Pavilion is a place for rest and reflection with wonderful views. The Ocean View Foundation is a nonprof-it organization that secured

Block Island’s natural

wonders will inspire, awe and intrigue

you.

Photo by Michael MelfordPhoto by C

hris Barrett

Photo by Michael M

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BirDiNg TAKES FligHT

During the spring and fall migration, thousands of birds pass over Block Island, making the Island a sort of superhighway for bird

travel. Spend a few hours here and you’re likely to see numerous bird species. Spend a few days and you’ll see dozens of birds ranging from prairie warblers to great crested flycatchers to Baltimore orioles. Spend enough time here and you could see all 300 species that frequent the Island at one point or another during the year.

A favorite locale for amateur bird-watchers and professional ornithol-ogists, Block Island offers a varied landscape that attracts songbirds, shorebirds and raptors. Young birds blown off course during the fall migration south find shelter in the Island’s brush. In the spring, many return sporting their best plumage in an attempt to impress the females before mating season begins in the summer.

And because of the diverse environment, it’s possible to see a sandpiper by Andy’s Way and a few minutes later a red-tailed hawk in a nearby grassland. Each fall the Audubon Society sponsors a bird-watch-ing conference on the Island, and throughout the year the Ocean View Foundation and The Nature Conservancy offer bird-banding demonstra-tions.

The Block Island School is home to the Elizabeth Dickens Bird Col-lection that spans 43 years and contains 172 mounted specimens. In the early half of the 20th century, Island resident Dickens became the foremost expert on the Island’s birds. Today she is remembered for her journals documenting the Island’s birds, and is lovingly referred to as the “Bird Lady of Block Island.”

Other notable ornithologists that have used Block Island as a study lab include Ken Able, a New York University at Albany professor considered an expert on the behavioral mechanisms and ecology of bird migration. Also dropping in were University of Southern Mississippi ornithology professor Frank Moore and Brown University professor Jeff Parrish.

this old Harbor plot for the enjoyment of the public. The largest hotel on the Island, the Ocean View, once stood on this site until fire destroyed it in the summer of 1966. The pavilion is dedicated to the concept of expand-ing the public’s awareness of environmental issues. Visi-tors must walk in from Water Street across from the ferry parking lot and just to the left of the post office building. The site is open from dawn to dusk.The Greenway is a web of trails that connects stretches of natural habitat and wonderful Island scenery. The enchanted Forest, Turnip Farm, the site of the old mill, Dodge Cemetery and Rodman’s Hollow are only some of the historic and natural features that can be explored on this walker’s escape from the hustle and bustle of town. No vehicles, including bikes, are allowed on the trails. The trail network was created in an effort to protect broad tracts of natural habitat, essential to some species, and to provide a low-impact opportunity for those who admire the Island’s open space. please be sure to stay on the pathways, as some of the corridors run through the private lands of owners who were kind enough to offer easements for the trails. The nature conservancy, at (401) 466-2129, offers a detailed map of the Greenway as well as a new Nature Guide.The Nature Conservancy, on High street, provides a wealth of information about the Island’s wildlife and plants. The nonprofit organization leads nature walks and offers trail maps and bird checklists. staff can an-swer questions about wildlife seen during your visit and point you in the right direction to find it. The organiza-tion also plays a key role in the effort to preserve the Island’s natural wonders for the enjoyment of the public.

Photo by Michael Melford Photo by Russell Waldron


I alWays Tell people that Block Island is the best place in the world. and, as its harbormaster, I have one of the best jobs. I spend every day of the summer on the water meeting boaters from around the world, all en-joying this rare gem called Block Island.

Few places on the East coast offer a safe haven 13 miles out to sea. Few places provide almost 100 public moorings, more than 75 acres of anchor-age and a recreation area for boaters. and no matter where boaters pull in, they find nearby shops, beaches and crystal-clear water. Visitors also love the relaxed atmosphere, where they can kick back and enjoy life.

Boaters can choose to unwind on their boats and watch the sun set over the Great Salt Pond, explore and enjoy the Island, or go fishing, swimming, or clamming. With the Block Island Sound to the west and the atlantic ocean to the east and south, Block Island is the epicenter of

OCEAN ADVENTURES

a boating andfishing paradise

Boats in the Harborboats from around the world moor in new harbor. The harbor provides public moorings and anchorage space for thousands of boaters a year. Photo by Michael Melford


the best fishing in New England. Offshore fishing opportunities for tuna and shark are close by. The Island hosts the Tri-state canyon shootout, a pre-mier offshore invitational fishing tournament held out of New Harbor each august.

Record-sized striped bass are caught in the surrounding waters every year. The rhode Island state record striped bass of 75 pounds, 4 ounces was caught one mile off the Island just this past year. The previous record of 70 pounds was also caught from our beaches. of course, even those that don’t set a record return to the docks with record-sized smiles on their faces.

For those looking for

firmer ground, shore access is unrestricted around the entire Island, thus offering unlimited lo-cations for surfcasters. It’s easy to find a spot without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds that invade most popular fishing destina-tions.

during the spring and fall the public shores become essentially private fishing outposts where you can catch striped bass, bluefish, fluke and bonito.

also on the Island are clam flats in New Harbor offering acres of clamming for visitors and residents alike. The inner ponds provide great sheltered kayaking waters as well as areas for kiteboarding, swimming, windsurfing, wakeboarding, waterskiing

and sailing.As winter arrives and

boating and fishing draw to a close for the season, our visiting boaters head to warmer waters and lo-cal boats are pulled from the water. The harbor-master’s office closes up and the fishing poles are stored as we bid farewell to yet another fantastic season.

This is a bittersweet time, but I know the boats will be returning in the spring, there will be more people to meet, more fish to be caught, and more fun to be had.

Capt. Christopher WilliHarbormaster


BoatingBoating offers a unique way of enjoying

the many splendors that the Island has to offer. Private boats are welcome in either of the Island’s harbors, both of which provide public moorings as well as private marinas. Launch service is available during the sum-mer months, and there are bathroom facili-ties and restaurants at all marinas.

Don’t have your own boat? No problem. Numerous private charters are available, whether you are looking to depart on a private fishing charter or a sunset cruise. Charter captains are happy to teach the beginner angler the finer points of fishing or to point out sights on a romantic trip around the Block.

More of a do-it-yourselfer? The Block Island Maritime Institute or the Block Island Club offer sailing lessons and rentals, and there are a couple of kayak rental business-es. Explore the Island’s inner ponds at your leisure or take a guided tour and see the Island from a whole new perspective.

Old HarborOld Harbor is a year-round docking desti-

nation for ferries coming from Point Judith, and accommodates seasonal Newport and New London ferries as well. Nestled within the bustling downtown, the harbor provides easy access to the Island’s hotels, restau-rants and retail shops. The town provides free pumpout service as well.

Once known as Government Harbor since funds to construct it were solicited from the federal government, Old Harbor was completed in 1872. In addition to public anchorage and the town dock, private marina services are also offered by Ballard’s Marina. Many private charter boats leave from here as well.Public Anchorage and Town Dock

(401) 466-3235VHF Channel 12 (7 a.m. to 9 p.m.)

Ballard’s Marina(401) 466-2231 (summer) (401) 334-1997 (winter)VHF Channel 13

New HarborNew Harbor is the first stop for Island visi-

tors arriving on the Montauk ferry and is the docking and anchoring spot for most private boaters. Docks, marinas and anchoring services await boats in the southwest corner of New Harbor, as well as shops, restaurants and hotel accommodations. Free pumpout service is provided by the town.

New Harbor was, in fact, the site of the Island’s first protected harbor, but the expense of keeping a breachway open be-tween the Great Salt Pond and Block Island Sound caused it to be abandoned in 1705. A new breach was cut and a breakwater was constructed to establish a permanent access point in 1896. More than 100 years later, boaters can pull into full-service marinas or sit on the dock sipping their favorite cocktails as the sun sets over the Great Salt Pond.

Kayak and sailboat rentals are also avail-able at various locations on the Great Salt Pond.

Block Island Harbors Department

Office Telephone: (401) 466-3204

Old Harbor Dock: (401) 466-3235

Summer Hours: 8AM - 7PM

Winter Hours: 9AM - 2PM

VHF Radio: Ch12 7AM - 9PM

9PM - 7AM - Emergency Only

Pumpout: Ch72 (Old Harbor)

Ch73 (New Harbor)

Photo by Malcolm Greenaway

Public Moorings and Anchorage(401) 466-3204VHF Channel 12 (7 a.m. to 9 p.m.)Boat Basin(401) 466-2631VHF Channel 9Champlin’s Marina(401) 466-7777 or (800) 762-4541VHF Channel 68Payne’s Dock (401) 466-5572 Block Island Maritime Institute (401) 466-7938(sailboat rentals and lessons)

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FISHING ON BLOCK

ISLANDWhat you’ll catch from may through

novemberBlock Island has long held the reputation as a

sportfishing mecca, offering great angling spring, summer and fall. Located 13 miles out in the Atlantic, there is no limit to the fishing opportunities for the surfcaster, inshore or deep-sea enthusiast.

As spring approaches, striped bass appear in the shallows around the Island, and the games begin. In summer 2008 a record striped bass — 75.4 pounds — was caught just off the Island’s south side. It re-placed the previous state record of 70 pounds caught 24 years before from a Block Island beach.

Also found in abundance close to Block Island shores are bluefish, tautog and black sea bass. The channel into New Harbor is a prime fishing ground for flounder, fluke and scup, as well as weakfish.

The Island boasts a professional charter-fishing fleet to take clients to the action, which could include fly-fishing or deep-sea trolling. Apart from the species mentioned, you might also hook into bonito, yellow fin tuna, mahi-mahi or even a shark.

There are two tackle shops on the Island as well, which have all the supplies and local knowledge a visitor could need to reel in the best of Block Island’s fishing.


A Winter WonderlandEven winter on Block Island has a serenity and beauty that

is quintessential New England. Spend your days snowshoeing, ice boating or hiking. Rent a summer cottage at a reduced rate, stock up on firewood and books, and enjoy a peaceful evening in a traditional Island home.

A few hotels and bed-and-breakfasts cater to year-round cus-tomers and there are a limited number of dining options for win-tertime visitors.

Photos by Keith Lang

Come Home To

Block Island

Gail P. Ballard Hall, Principal BrokerCorner of Ocean Ave. and Corn Neck Road

401-466-8883

www.blockislandproperty.com

Whether you are looking to purchase that special Island

property or planning a relaxing vacation, Ballard Hall Real

Estate is on-island year round to assist you. Browse our

property listings and connect with one of our agents for

buyer or seller representation.

When it comes to a Block Island house rental choose from

over 100 homes, cottages and condos ranging from one to

seven bedrooms. Make your selection at our new website

featuring interior photos, pricing and weekly availability.

Call for reservations.

Real Estate Sales and Service


A SHOPPER’SHEAVENThere’s somethingfor everyone

THE BLOCK ISLAND SHOPPING BuG bit me early. as a young girl summering here, I took the money I earned working at my parents’ take-out and ran down the street to the candy store with my eye on

securing a roll of candy dots. I have to acknowl-edge that I still hold a soft spot for these little pieces of sugar.

Today, though, my shopping horizons have expanded, and the roughly 50 Island shops offering everything from T-shirts to jewelry quench my thirst. one of the facets of life I love here is the absence of

chain stores with their generic product lines and idle sales clerks.

On Block Island, shop owners take great pains to hand-select their products and offer one-of-a-kind gifts and novelties. They take great pride in their stores and more often than not, you will find that the clerk behind the register is actually the owner. The major-ity of these “mom-and-pop” stores went into busi-ness years ago and have spent those years perfecting everything from their display cases to their prices. our honey and jam makers continually improve their of-ferings, and new-style flip-flops arrive every year.

My new candy these days, though, are Vera Bradley handbags and Block Island-themed gifts for friends on the mainland. each year during the christmas Stroll in November, I find bargain prices on presents

for my family and friends. I love the feeling of know-ing that I’m giving a present that will stand out and also won’t break the bank. Besides the bargains there are no lines at the checkout, you don’t need to find parking, and the shop owners give free hot cider to warm you up. It’s a totally stress-free shopping experience.

during the rest of the year I love be-ing able to walk the historic downtown area without the need of a car or taxi. The shops are just steps away from the ferry docks in old Harbor, putting them within easy reach of visitors as well as residents like me. The variety of goods that can be found in this small area is amazing, and I can always find the perfect gift.

As a visitor to Block Island, the best way to enjoy shopping is as a complement to the Island’s other wonders. The shops can provide the needed gear for your hike on the Greenway trails or your dive to shipwrecks off the coast. Need sunglasses or a fishing pole? Want to rent a surfboard or kayak? Forget your bathing suit or board shorts? not a problem. The shops here have everything you might need to help fulfill the perfect vacation.

and before you leave, stop by one of the candy stores to indulge yourself. you may even see me pick-ing up some candy dots.

Jessica K. WilliExecutive DirectorBlock Island Tourism Council

As a visitor to Block Island, the best way to enjoy shopping is as a complement to the Island’s other wonders. The shops can provide the needed gear for your hike on the Greenway trails or your dive to shipwrecks off the coast.

Photos by Celeste S

loman


For HerAmong the various shops on

the Island are fabulous opportu-nities to impress your sweet-heart. No matter what her style is, you will find something here that she will cherish forever.

Some of the most popular items include chocolates, jewelry, art, hand-made pottery and knitting, local preserves and unique handbags. Among the Island delicacies that can be caught on land are hand-dipped chocolate turtles (not yet endangered, although so delicious they are sometimes in short supply) and fudge. There are numerous jewelry stores, galleries, and other shops where you can find that special keepsake that will allow her to always remember your unfor-gettable Island getaway.

Depending on her taste, you can find something elegant, like pearls, diamonds, or other precious gems, or something a bit more funky with flair, like sea-glass bracelets, earrings

and rings. A variety of Island artists offer paintings, photo-graphs and one-of-a-kind art displays that will brighten her office and make for a great conversation piece. If the love of your life is inclined to go green and support local farmers and artisans, consider some of the handmade blankets, knitting items and local preserves.

For HimBlock Island’s stores also of-

fer a wide range of goods that are the perfect complement to his vacation. Pick up a Block Island tie, belt or T-shirt for a night out on the town. If a quiet afternoon of fishing is more his style, then you can find rods, bait and tackle at the Island stores. Want to while away your afternoon on the beach? Pick up a book about the Is-land; from history to trivia, there is something for everyone.

Block Island offers a great place to pick up that perfect gift for her, him, children, or friends and family members. Whether it is shopping in town, at the twice-weekly Farmers Market, Arts & Craft Guild fairs or christmas stroll (immediately following Thanksgiving), you can find that unique gift.

Photo by Chris B

arrett


For Family & FriendsIf your family and friends

enjoy being together, consider planning a trip to Block Island for that perfect birthday, an-niversary or holiday. Step into a more leisurely pace, and relax and enjoy the things that are often forgotten during your hectic life.

There are a variety of ways for groups and families to enjoy the Island together. You might stay at one of the Island’s Victorian hotels, rent a house for the weekend or week, or come over for a day trip. Once on the Island, treat your friends

and family to some of New England’s best fish dishes, and enjoy the pristine beaches and nature trails. Make that special day memorable!

If your friends can’t come with you, consider bringing them back a Block Island mug, a piece of original artwork or a comic Island T-shirt. The shops here are the perfect place to pick up a stocking stuffer or birthday present. There are also great seasonal deals in all of the Island shops.

Photo by Celeste S

loman

Photo by Chris B

arrett

Photo by Michael M

elford


A HISTORIC PLACEHistory around every corner

Lighting the WayThe 135-year old Southeast lighthouse, an iconic landmark, was moved 250 feet to save it from tumbling over the eroding bluffs. Photo by Michael Melford

The Island’s Historical Society contains more than 2,000 items chronicling the Island’s rich history. The society’s museum is open regularly during the summer and by appointment during the rest of the year.

DiD you KNoW?


MY LOVE OF BLOCK ISLAND HIsTory stems from my fam-ily’s heritage that dates back to 1661 when the first European settlers arrived here at settlers Rock. Twenty years with the Historical society has given me a unique insight into the wide and important role history plays on this Island.

experiencing history here is like taking a journey back in time. It’s a journey that leads us, not just as Block Islanders but as people, to understand how we arrived where we are today. The historic structures here are more than brick and mortar; they are the keys to unlocking the history of this great place that started as a modest fishing and farming outpost and grew into a vibrant community.

like your grandmother’s attic, these structures provide hours of education, curiosity, satisfaction and just plain fun. climb the steps of one of the two light-houses and imagine a lifesaving boat rowing to the rescue of a sinking ship. Visit the Historical Society and view Native Ameri-can artifacts from before the European settlement; admire the clothing worn by women of the colonial and Victorian eras; or be amazed by the intricate quilt work of the Island’s home-makers. Hike the nature trails through farmland and imagine a farmer rounding up his sheep.

We love history here so much that we moved a 2,000-ton brick lighthouse 250 feet to save it from eroding bluffs. We’ve preserved the historic look of downtown, kept farmlands as farms and historic homes his-toric. We’ve sought grants, raised private money and put in pure sweat equity to maintain the Island’s historic charm and the

memories it holds.some of the most important

memories are of the people that lived here. In an age when children turn to Hollywood for heroes, those who visit Block Island can learn of Fred Benson. This beloved schoolteacher, fish-erman and mechanic won the lottery and threw a family picnic for the town. He contributed the rest of his winnings to a scholar-ship fund.

or there’s the story of nicho-las Ball, who sailed around the world at age 14, then to Califor-nia during the Gold Rush and returned a millionaire. He per-suaded the federal government to build the breakwater at Old Harbor that turned the island from an isolated community into a place very much connected to the mainland.

And it never ceases to amaze me how deep that connection runs. I have met visitors in the museum and discovered we have common ancestors. I have assisted dozens, if not hundreds, of people on a quest to complete their family trees. I have held postcards and letters sent half-way around the world to Block Island residents. and I have uncovered stories that you need to see to believe.

so if you’ve been here in the past, you’re sure to find a piece of history you missed. If this is your first visit, then come and be a part of Block Island history. Who knows; some day a century from now a historian could be studying that postcard you sent home and wondering, what was it like back then?

Pam littlefield GasnerExecutive DirectorBlock Island Historical Society


The Southeast Lighthouse is perched 200 feet above sea level on the magnificent Mo-hegan Bluffs. When lit in 1875, the lantern’s beams reached 21 miles out to sea — farther than any lighthouse in New England. When this National Historic Landmark was first constructed, a large field separated the house and tower from the cliff’s edge. By the late 1980s, the bluffs had eroded to within 60 feet of the building. Funding was attained through federal, state and local channels to move it to safe grounds. The move took place in August of 1993, and a large stone now marks where the tower once stood. The grounds are open daily from sunrise to sunset. Guided tower tours are available daily in the summer and on weekends in the spring and fall. For more information call (401) 466-5009.The North Light is the fourth lighthouse built on Sandy Point. The first, finished in 1829, was washed away in a few years. A second light began operation in 1837, but was not visible to ships due to the shifting sands. The government built a third light near the end of the point in 1857, and that also succumbed to the sea. At last, in 1867, the present sturdy building of Con-necticut granite, hauled to the site by oxen, was completed. The lighthouse is located in the Sachem Pond Wildlife Refuge, and is less than a half-mile walk from Settlers Rock. Settlers Rock & Sachem Pond are at the northern end of the Island. The stone memorial was erected in 1911 in com-memoration of the landing 250 years earlier of the first European settlers on Block Island. In April 1661, the families and animals of 16 men who had purchased the Island for 400 pounds sterling arrived by barque from the Mas-sachusetts Bay Colony. Because the Island had no natural harbor, they were forced to leave their ship and wade ashore. The cows

swam ashore into the cove, known thereafter as Cow Cove. Bird-watching, fishing and sunset gazing are favorite pastimes at this location.The Block Island Histori-cal Society Museum & Gift Shop is located at Bridgegate Square in the white mansard-roof building with rocking chairs on the porch. It was established in 1942 to preserve the Island’s culture and farming and maritime past. The museum building, origi-nally known as the Woonsocket House, was purchased in 1945, and houses an extensive col-lection of fine furniture, textiles, quilts, boat models, tools, fishing gear, oral history tapes and other memorabilia. Group tours and genealogy research assistance are available. For more informa-tion call (401) 466-2481.Isaac’s Corner, at the intersection of Center Road, Lakeside Drive and Cooneymus Road, is named for Isaac Church, the Island’s last surviving Native Indian, who died in 1886. Nearby (to the east of the four corners) is an Indian burial ground where the headstones (small field-stones) are set closely together. Indian custom dictated burial of the dead in an upright position, with a pot of clams or oysters beside them to speed them on their way to the next life. The town’s Heinz Recreation Playing Field, where summer camp and sporting events are held, is located just north of the corner. Parking is available on the grass. There are also Greenway trails that meander around Fresh Pond.The Island Free Library may not look big but it handles big business. About 116,000 people passed through its doors last fiscal year, checking out more than 43,000 items from books to DVDs. The air-conditioned facil-ity provides public bathrooms, a place to escape the hot sun and, of course, dozens of books detailing the Island’s history. Besides the usual books, the

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THe HIsTory oF Block Island extends beyond its

sandy and rocky shores. Before the arrival of modern navigational aids (and even after it) countless ships — off-course due to fog, weather or human error — have met their untimely demise on the Island’s coastline. While some have be-come the stuff of legend, others continue to draw sport divers from around the east coast

In 1738 the Princess Augusta caught fire and went down off Sandy Point. This wreck went on to inspire John Greenleaf Whit-tier’s poem “The Palatine,” which was published in Atlantic Monthly in 1867 and did not paint a flat-tering portrait of Islanders. In the 1800s, the Island historian, rev. livermore, dispelled the allega-tions in Whittier’s poem. In the centuries since, there have been numerous reports of a burning “ghost ship” sighted in the area west of Sandy Point.

In 1846 a ship carrying hard coal went aground in Cow Cove. This coal eventually replaced peat as the Island’s major fuel source.

In 1907 the steamer Larchmont collided with a three-masted schooner, the Harry P. Knowl-ton. Island fishermen braved the horrific sub-zero conditions in an effort to pluck a few survivors from the icy water. These men were awarded gold medals from the carnegie Foundation for their heroic deeds.

also in 1907, the Montana, a schooner carrying coal, foundered just outside the entrance to the Great Salt Pond and now lies 75 feet underwater.

In 1939, a 416-foot Texaco tank-er, the Lightburne, went aground in front of the southeast lighthouse carrying 72,000 barrels of kero-

sene and gasoline. The crew was rescued and the ship was dynamit-ed to create less of a navigational hazard. The Lightburne remains a favorite spot for ocean divers to this day.

One of the Island’s most signifi-cant wrecks of the last 100 years occurred on May 6, 1945 — two days before the German surrender. a collier named Black Point was torpedoed as she left narragan-sett Bay, losing 12 men. a group of American warships, assisted by blimps, converged on the area to find the culprit. Eventually the armada located and sank the German u-boat u-853, sending it to the bottom with all 55 crew members on board.

The wreck, lying in 130 feet of water approximately seven miles east of Block Island’s clay Head, has become a popular site for divers. It played a crucial role in solving the mystery in the bestsell-ing book “Shadow Divers.”

library contains copy machines, computers, printers, free Wi-Fi, a parakeet, a cockatoo and some fish.Smilin’ Through is a gambrel-roofed cottage situated on Coon-eymus Road, where composer and poet Arthur Penn and his wife Nell resided in the 1920s. Penn’s musical works include a song about the Block Island home, “Smilin’ Through.” The original cottage was built in the 1700s by John Alcock and was rebuilt in the 1950s. The house sits on the edge of a sloping hill, which leads down to the waters of Fresh Pond.The Statue of Rebecca stands formally in stark white at the intersection of Water, High and Spring streets. Named after the biblical Rebekah-at-the-well, the statue originally featured wa-ter troughs for horses and dogs, and once had running water for human consumption. Installed in 1896 by the Women’s Christian Temperance Union, the statue is dedicated to abstinence from liquid spirits. The much-loved statue was recast and reinstalled to celebrate her 100th anniver-sary. The conservationists who did the work concluded that the woman is not Rebekah but rather Hebe, cupbearer to the gods!

SHIPWRECKS

Waves pound an old shipwreck off the southern coast of Block Island, just one of the many sur-rounding the Island. Photo by Celeste Sloman

Photo by Michael M

elford



ONE OF THE SEVERAL TIMES I was wrangling with graduate school, I was advised to “critically examine the ramifications and implications of what it meant to be a ‘poet of place.’” naturally, I dropped out of the program immediately and completed, instead, my second collection, “This place Here,” in which I explored, instead, my lovely dog Eliot, my two beautiful children, Orrin and Millie, and their growing up in this extraordinary place with its sandpipers and the always-shifting tide.

years later, I came across a line that seemed relevant to both. It went some-thing like, “a place is not really entirely a place until some poet has come along to properly name it.” It made me feel important for a day or two, but somehow it echoed falsely. The more I thought about it I realized that for me, I never really knew I was a poet until I’d found this place, Block Island, which stirred my imagination and heart so fiercely I had no choice but to try to describe it with the beauty and elegance and grainy texture of language it deserved.

I would gather that many of our artists only dabbled in their various genres before finding their way to Block Island and beginning to take their work more seriously. And why? Because art, whether it is a poem, a song, a painting, a photograph or a sand castle, is a form of prayer. I write poems as a way of say-ing back to this gorgeous, pulsing place, “yes, I am looking. yes I see.” or some-times, just “thank you.” I would imagine it’s the same for my many artist friends.

sometimes, things are just so stun-ningly beautiful there is this need to try to hold onto them. I use words. My friend Jessie Edwards uses pen and ink, Sandra Swan the woodcut. Often there are times when I see a color so shocking it is almost an unworldly glow-ing version of itself. That’s when I call cindy kelly, and tell her to “please get to Red Gate Farm before the light shifts,” because she knows how color and light and shadow dance together better than

anyone.Then there are the

many days I am out for yet another Island cruise, and I am wish-ing I was Malcolm Greenaway with his camera, so that those who don’t have the blessing of witnessing Rodman’s Hollow after a snowfall, or when the shad is in full bloom, might know what the world looks like in these coveted moments. And then Malcolm will drive up, breath-less, like me, with the desire to “get it” and to get it right.

So really, then, we are all artists, aren’t we, because we all have this remarkable gift for witnessing, for observing, and for offering back some gratitude. one need not paint or draw or sculpt or write to be an artist. pulling over on the road to watch the surf roll back works. So does braking for turtles. So does waking up every morning, and looking out the win-dow at whichever Island view it faces, and saying, as one should, “look at this, just look at this.”

one of these days I should call that graduate adviser and tell him I’ve been thinking about that “poet of place busi-ness.” I’ll tell him I’m still busy research-ing the matter, but all signs indicate it’s a pretty fortuitous life to have been given when one is a poet, and the place hap-pens to be Block Island. even better, no advanced degree is required.

lisa StarrRhode Island Poet Laureateand Block Island Resident

left top: A visitor admires paintings at an Arts & Crafts Guild fair. left below: island artist leslie ulrich at her gallery. Photos by Celeste Sloman

CREATIVE ISLEart for all


The Art of Block islandIt’s perhaps no surprise that Block

Island — a work of natural art — at-tracts and inspires artists of many stripes working in many different types of media. The Island’s inherent beauty — its rolling green hills, spectacular cliff-top vistas and foggy hollows surrounded by stone walls — has for decades inspired paint-ers, watercolorists, photographers and sculptors alike to capture its otherworldly grandeur.

Not only is the Island itself a source of inspiration, but the serenity inherent in a secluded getaway 13 miles into the Atlantic allows for quiet and reflection, important ingredients in making art.

The art and the effort to create it can be seen all around.

Like striped bass returning to the Island in the spring, so artists appear as the weather warms with their canvases and palettes mounted in fields or on side-walks, creating their work “en plein air.”

From the frescoed Island scenes cre-ated in the Highview Hotel basement by H. D. Wetherbee in 1948 (in exchange for rent and whiskey), to Malcolm Greenaway’s image of the North Light currently hanging in the U.S. ambas-sador’s residence in Montenegro, Block Island-inspired art has traveled the globe.

Besides the Island’s art galleries (filled almost exclusively with art created by Is-land artists), there are a half-dozen shows sponsored by the Island’s Arts & Crafts Guild on the Historical Society lawn in the summer.

There are also the weekly “Capt. Kidd” art classes for young children on the Historical Society lawn, as well as numerous art retreats that visit the Island throughout the warmer months.

And it’s not all just visual media: the Block Island Poetry Project, the inspira-tion of Island resident and Rhode Island Poet Laureate Lisa Starr, has drawn world-class poets to the Island to conduct workshops in the spring.

So, if you want to bring an image of Block Island home with you that is more substantial than a postcard, you will find ample keepsakes for purchase. Or, per-haps you would prefer to set up your own canvas or easel on a secluded stretch of beach or next to a still pond, and create your own Block Island art.

Photo by Michael Melford

The work of Block Island artists has been featured in U.S. embassies, national art shows and government buildings. Some say a photograph is worth a thousand words, but nothing beats experiencing the beauty of Block Island in person.

DiD you KNoW?


Island photographers take good pictures. But don’t take our word for it.

The u.s. ambassador to montenegro thought a photograph of the north light by island photographer Malcolm Greenaway was so perfect he asked the state department to bring it halfway around the world to his of-ficial residence.

The photo, titled “dusk at north light,” is part of a 10-piece exhibit hand-picked by am-bassador roderick W. moore, a rhode Island native who visited Block Island frequently as a child. In summer 2007, he returned for a visit and admired the north light and the coastline. When Moore’s father, who lives in East Greenwich, R.I., later saw Greenaway’s photo at a show, he thought of his son.

“I said see if you can talk to the artist and send me a jpeg,” moore said in a telephone interview. “So he did and I saw it and I loved it.”

Moore’s father contacted Greenaway and pitched the idea of shipping the 2-by-3 foot photo to a country Greenaway had never heard of. Greenaway politely expressed inter-est but never thought the call would amount to anything more than an interesting tidbit to tell at parties.

But moore contacted the state department about its Art in Embassies program, which pays shipping and insurance costs for ambas-sadors to hang loaned artwork in official resi-dences. When the program contacted Green-away, he was more than happy to oblige.

“It was something that was sort of neat and a little different,” Greenaway said. “Just the idea of Block Island hanging on a wall over there in europe is sort of funny, and I’m curi-

ous to see what the reaction is when people see it.”

Moore said Greenaway’s piece comple-ments a New England theme for the exhibit, and hangs prominently on the main floor of his residence. He said he loves the colors in the photograph and the uniqueness of the lighthouse. and he thought the photo was particularly relevant in the country that borders the adriatic sea and includes similar coastlines and inner mountains as New Eng-land does.

“Block Island is a place that I’ve always loved as a rhode Islander,” moore said. “I al-ways try and get out to Block Island when I’m there in the summer and this [photograph] being a tribute to New England, it seemed like the perfect match.”

Greenaway now joins a growing list of well-known artists who have participated in the art in embassies program established by the State Department in 1964 as a way to comple-ment diplomacy by showing the diversity and quality of American artwork and culture. To-day, artwork hangs in about 180 ambassador residences worldwide. And Greenaway is not the first Block Island artist to participate in the program. A piece by Jerry Powers of the Spring Street Gallery once hung in Russia.

moore said he’s just delighted the state de-partment program allows him to share scenes from his roots with those in Montenegro.

“I think it’s a wonderful way of showing our hosts here in montenegro and other coun-tries around the world what American art is all about, and I love to show them what New england art is all about,” he said.

The North Light on the AdriaticGreenaway photo adorns U.S. ambassador’s residence

Photo by Malcolm

Greenaw

ay


HIGHLIGHTSFOR 2009While every day on block is-

land is a special day, there are several events and holidays that you won’t want to miss.

Join us for the annual Fourth of July parade, fireworks and steak fry. Celebrate American independence in a unique block island style. Thrill to the home-made floats that make our parade one of new England’s best; watch fireworks explode over the Atlan-tic ocean from the porch of your hotel or the comfort of a beach blanket; and indulge in mixed drinks and fresh seafood at one of our many island restaurants.

if you can’t make it for the

Fourth, come for these other special events:

Art festivals throughout the spring, summer and fall featuring the works of local and nationally known artists.

Take part in the annual Triath-lon in August, the Shad Bloom race in early May or the “15k Run Around the Block” in September.

The Block Island Music Festival is held in early June, where bands from around the world “rock the block.”

For sailors, there’s the annual Block Island Race Week in June.

Memorial Day, Labor Day, Columbus Day and Veterans Day weekends feature special events and vacation packages.

The Christmas Shopping Stroll follows Thanksgiving Day, and there’s no more tranquil place to spend New Year’s weekend. of course, truly hearty souls should take part in the annual Polar Bear Plunge.

A full listing of events in 2009 is available at www.blockisland-info.com. block island represents 365 days of fun. be sure to also join us for holidays and special occasions.

Photo by Michael Melford Photo by Kari McGarry

Photo by Celeste SlomanPhoto by Celeste SlomanPhoto by Celeste Sloman


1. north light (Page 28)2. Settlers rock (Page 28)3. Greenway Trails (Page 17)4. Mansion beach (Page 12)5. Andy’s Way (Page 12)6. Town beach (Page 12)7. Montauk Ferry Dock (Page 8)8. Charlestown beach (Page 12)9. Police Station10. rodman’s hollow (Page 16)11. Smilin’ Through (Page 29)12. isaac’s Corner (Page 28)13. black rock (Page 16)14. Mohegan bluffs (Page 16)15. Southeast lighthouse (Page 28)16. Medical Center17. island Free library (Page 28)18. Pt. Judith and new london Ferry Docks (Page 8)19. Visitor Center20. Statue of rebecca (Page 29)21. Abrams’ Animal Farm (Page 16)22. u.S. Post office23. b.i. historical Society (Page 28)

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1. North Light (Page 28)2. Settlers Rock (Page 28)3. Greenway Trails (Page 17)4. Mansion Beach (Page 12)5. Andy’s Way (Page 12)6. Town Beach (Page 12)7. Montauk Ferry Dock (Page 8)8. Charlestown Beach (Page 12)9. Police Station10. Rodman’s Hollow (Page 16)11. Smiln’ Through (Page 29)12. Isaac’s Corner (Page 28)13. Black Rock (Page 16)14. Mohegan Bluffs (Page 16)15. Southeast Lighthouse (Page 28)16. Medical Center17. Island Free Library (Page 28)18. Pt. Judith and New London Ferry Docks (Page 8)19. Visitor Center20. Statue of Rebecca (Page 29)21. Abrams’ Animal Farm (Page 16)22. U.S. Post Office23. B.I. Historical Society (Page 28)

Cooneymus Road

NewHarbor


B&Bs, Cottages and guest HousesAppleyard Guest House(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Center Road Apartments(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Chapel Street Apartment(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Crescent Beach Cottage(401) 466-2551Crescent Pond Cottage(401) 466-2033Dewey Cottage(401) 466-2421Dodge Cottage(401) 466-2421 or (800) 626-4773 E&M B&B(401) 466-5038Fagan Cottage(401) 466-5383Figurehead Suite(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Fitness Center Apartments(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Flounder Inn B&B(401) 465-2614Harbor Pond View(401) 466-5831Harbourview(401) 466-5497Island Manor Timeshares(866) 469-8222Islebless Cottage(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Jim-Dorrie House(401) 466-3000Maple Leaf Cottage(401) 466-2065

BloCK iSlAND Accommodations

Mason Hall Condo(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 McCombe’s Guest House(401) 466-2684Meadow View House(401) 466-2034Mitchell Cottage(401) 466-5053Neptune House Timeshare(401) 466-2100 Ocean Views B&B(401) 466-2493Payne’s Beach Avenue Apartments(401) 466-2834Perry Cottage(401) 466-2342Suite Dreams(401) 466-8600Torrey Guest House(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Upstairs B&B(401) 466-2627Water Street Suites(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Willow Grove B&B(401) 466-2896Windrose B&B(401) 466-2912

Hotels (more than 20 rooms)Atlantic Inn(401) 466-5883 or (800) 224-7422Champlin’s Resort and Marina(401) 466-7777 or (800) 762-4541

Harborside Inn(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Hotel Manisses(401) 466-2421 or (800) 626-4773Narragansett Inn(401) 466-2626National Hotel(401) 466-2901 or (800) 225-2449Spring House(401) 466-5844 or (800) 234-9263

Hotels(fewer than 20 rooms)Anchor House(401) 466-5021 or (800) 730-0181Ashley House(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Avonlea Jewel of the Sea(401) 466-5891 or (800) 992-7290Ballard’s Inn(401) 466-2231 or (401) 334-1997Barrington Inn(401) 466-5510 or (877) 324-4667Bellevue House(401) 466-2912 Blue Dory Inn(401) 466-5891 or (800) 992-7290Gables Inn(401) 466-2213Gothic Inn(401) 466-2918 or (800) 944-8991Hendrickson House(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Highview Inn(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Hygeia House(401) 466-9616

Inn at Block Island(401) 466-5524 or (877) 324-4667Inn at Old Harbor(401) 466-2932 Island Home(401) 466-5944 or (888) 261-6118New Shoreham House(401) 466-2605 or (800) 825-6254Old Bakery Inn(401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254Old Town Inn(401) 466-5958Payne’s Harborview Inn(401) 466-5758 Rose Farm Inn(401) 466-2034Sea Breeze Inn(401) 466-2275 or (800) 786-2276Seacrest Inn(401) 466-2882 Sheffield House(401) 466-24941661 Inn(401) 466-2421 or (800) 626-4773 Sullivan House(401) 466-5020 Water Street Inn(401) 466-2605 or (800) 825-6254

Fall and spring

specials available.

Go to

blockislandinfo.com

for more

information.

AccommodationsCozy bed-and-breakfasts,

elegant Victorian hotels, quaint seaside cottages and sprawling beach houses. Block Island has a variety of accommodations to fit your personal taste and budget.

Our hotels and inns have staff whose business is your comfort. You’ll be treated to personalized service, majestic views, impeccably designed rooms and delicious food at any in-town accommodations.

If you are looking to get away from the friendly bustle

of town, a number of Island homes, from the traditional to the ultra-modern, are available

to rent. A list of hotels and inns is

below. Log on to the Tourism

Council website (www.block-islandinfo.com) to find Block Island real estate agents who will assist you in finding an Is-land rental to house your family in style and comfort. Also look for package deals, spa days, romantic getaways, restaurant weeks and more!

Can’t get away for a summer holiday? No problem. Many hotels, inns and houses are available for rent at reduced rates during the spring and fall. The perfect time for nature walks, birding and fishing.

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BloCK iSlAND Dining and Nightlife

Casual Dining Aldo’s Bakery(401) 466-2198 Aldo’s Restaurant(401) 466-5871 Ballard’s Inn(401) 466-2231Beachead(401) 466-2249Bethany’s Airport Diner(401) 466-3100 Cheescake Castle and Cafe(401) 466-7994 Club Soda(401) 466-5397 Dead Eye Dick’s(401) 466-2654 Eli’s(401) 466-5230 Ernie’s(401) 466-2473Finn’s(401) 466-2473

Froozies Juice Bar and Cafe(401) 466-2230 Gatsby Room(401) 466-2836 G.R. Sharkey’s(401) 466-9900 Harbor Grill(401) 466-2828 Harry’s Cafe(401) 466-5400 Ice Cream Place(401) 466-2145 Juice ‘n’ Java(401) 466-5220 Mohegan Cafe and Brewery(401) 466-5911 National Hotel Tap & Grille(401) 466-2901 Oar Restaurant(401) 466-8820 Old Harbor View TakeoutOld Post Office Bagel Shop(401) 466-5959

Payne’s New Harbor Dock(401) 466-9825Pizza Plus(401) 466-9939 Rebecca’s on the BeachRebecca’s(401) 466-5411 Swashbucklers(401) 466-2822 Three Sisters(401) 466-9661 Water Street Cafe(401) 466-5540 Wetherbee’s(401) 466-5900

Fine DiningAtlantic Inn(401) 466-5883 or (800)-224-7422 Hotel Manisses(401) 466-2421 or (800) 626-4773 Spring House(401) 466-5844 or (800) 234-9263

Winfield’s(401) 466-5856

Taverns and NightclubsAlbion Pub(401) 466-9990 Captain Nick’s(401) 466-5670 Club Soda(401) 466-5397 Mahogany ShoalsMcGovern’s Yellow Kittens Tavern(401) 466-5855

Satisfied DinersFrom family-friendly to fine din-

ing, Block Island boasts a range of restaurants to satisfy hungry visitors.

Seafood lovers will delight in the dizzying number of ways our local chefs prepare fresh catch. Many of the Island’s most beloved seafood joints are less than a five-minute walk from the beach or ferry. Bite into one of our legendary fish sandwiches, snack on clam cakes or mahi-mahi, feast on buckets of shrimp and enjoy the spectacular ocean views.

But Block Island offers more than just seafood. There are a number of eclectic options to suit every palate. Hungry for falafel, eggplant rollatini, sushi, pad thai or bagels, Block Island has something for everyone.

A romantic getaway wouldn’t be complete without one night of elegance. Our award-winning restaurants offer dining experiences that will make it an evening of magic you’ll never forget. Dine by candlelight; share dinner-for-two on the porch of a

Victorian hotel; or step out for a night of old-world elegance at one of our four-star dining establishments. A fine romance isn’t possible without some truly fine dining.

island NightlifeAfter a day of swimming, fish-

ing, sailing or hiking, you need to relax … just not too much!

A whole other Island ad-venture awaits you after dark. Block Island bars and nightclubs are some of the best in New England. You’ll find local brews, mudslides and mixed drinks and margarita madness. Best of all, the Island’s many bars and clubs offer live music that will keep you dancing well into the night.

2008

How To Satisfy Hungry Appetites On and On The Way To Block Island

Menus Also Available On-Line at: www.blockislandtimes.com

Menus of most local restaurants are published in Block Dining, available on the Island and at www.blockislandtimes.com.

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WeddingsWhat’s the key to a memora-

ble wedding? Location, location, location.

It is one of the most important days of your life, so make it one you’ll never forget. Block Island offers a variety of spectacular settings that will guarantee your wedding will be a classic. Have your reception at one of the Island’s many seaside Victorian hotels. Exchange your vows on one of our breathtaking beaches as the waves crash along the shoreline. Walk down the aisle in one of the Island’s distinctively New England churches. Or tie the knot at the majestic Mohe-gan Bluffs as the sun sets in the distance.

As a popular wedding destina-tion, the Island is well-equipped to cater to your every need. From flower arrangements to ca-tering to wedding photographs, you’ll find a wealth of on-island options to fit your budget.

Make it more than just a ceremony. Make it a wedding weekend filled with bicycling, swimming and hiking. After a day soaking rays on the beach or hitting the nature trails, enjoy cocktails on the deck of one of our landmark hotels, dinner at an award-winning restaurant or live entertainment at an Island bar or nightclub. There’s so much to do.

It’s like having a wedding and a honeymoon rolled into one!

ConferencesHosting an ornithology

conference? Wining and dining prospective clients? Trying to impress business executives or politicians from out of state? Block Island’s the place to be.

Despite its small size, the Is-land has played host to some big events. The Audubon Society takes advantage of the Is-land’s reputation as a haven for birders to host its annual conference here. Recently, officials from the U.S. Small Business Administration used the Island to highlight Rhode Island’s unique offer-ings. And this spring, the Is-land will once again host the Block Island Poetry Project,

a series of poetry-themed work-shops organized by Lisa Starr, Rhode Island’s Poet Laureate.

Come experience the bene-fits of hosting a high-profile event in an intimate community setting. Your attendees and guests will love exploring Block Island together.

WEDDINGS & CONFERENCES

A Block Island Wedding is available on the Island and at www.blockislandtimes.com.

Block Island Wedding

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Island

A Publication of

Photo by John Fuller Photo by John Fuller


(401) 466-2212 (860) 444-GO B.I. (4624) www.goblockisland.com

Frequent Daily DeparturesSeasonal Service

Service between New London and Old Harbor,Block Island at speeds of over 40mph.Within walking distance of restaurants, shops,hotels and the best beaches in the Northeast.

New London to Block Island in just over one hour!

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Atlantic Inn AdThe Atlantic Inn

Veranda Lawn and Lounge

Since 1879

When you’re lookingfor an unforgettable evening with breathtaking views, the Atlantic Inn will satisfy you. Whether youenjoy tapas and cocktailson the veranda or ouraward winning menuinside, you’re in for arelaxing taste of Block Island tradition and romance.

www.atlanticinn.com

Documents

Block Island: Close to Home, A World Away