Black Sheep Nov 06

Black SheepTorres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino

Organizing Travels in Chilean Patagonia

ACCOMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

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Digging upthe pastA Tale of Two Unreasonable Men

-Chilean Wine Guide

-Guide Training in Patagonia

2

www.patagoniablacksheep.com

The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned rag, inspired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile.

A warm, woolly thanks go out to all black sheep who helped make this paper possible. The opinions within

the Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers.

zPublished by Southern Cross Ltda.

The Black Sheep Organizing Chilean Patagonia

Patagonia, Chilewww.patagoniablacksheep.com

ph +56•61•415749

Production Editor • Design: Rustyn Mesdag

Business Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar Irribarra

Assistent Editor:Marjan AlkemaContributers:

Diego Araya, Bill PenhollowSebastian Borgwardt, Isabel Chamorro

Retraction- BS V1, Issue 6 - Posted in PN Q&A´s - Refugio Paine Grande at Pehoe is open in the winter season for refugio beds and camping. Apologies to anyone who ran into any problems thinking it was closed. Sorry guys!

a r e l a x e d n o o k . . .M a s s a g e s

R e l a x a t i o n T h e r a p i e sN a t u r a l B a r

O u t d o o r C e n t e rH a n d M a d e C r a f t s

E b e r h a r d 1 6 1 - P u e r t o N a t a l e s , C h i l e - p h + 5 6 - 6 1 4 1 5 7 4 9

Andescape - Dickson, Lago [email protected] +56-61 412592 Bed Bed, breakfastBed, dinnerFull boardLunch

Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los [email protected] Bed Bed, breakfastBed, dinnerFull boardLunch

Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain [email protected] +56-61 412742Bed Bed, breakfastBed, dinnerFull boardLunch

Torres del Paine Refugio Information These prices are reflected in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.

$25.00$33.50$40.00$59.00$13.00

$33.00$41.00$47.00$63.00$12.00

$35.00$39.00$50.00$63.00$12.00

Baquedano 719 Pto Nataleswww.errat icrock.com

ph +56 61 410355Patagonia

Jo in the rucksack revo lu t ion

Hoste l - Renta l - Gu ides - In fo

er ra t i c rock

Torres del Paine Bus Schedules

Natales - Torres del Paine Torres del Paine - NatalesAndescape Ph 412877

7.30 (Laguna Amarga) 15.00

(Pudeto) 14.00

(Administration) 13.45

Gomez Ph 415700


(Pudeto) 13.45

(Administration) 13.00

JB Ph 412824


(Pudeto) 14.00(Administration) 13.00

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Punta Arenas - Puerto NatalesBuses FernandezPh 411111E. Ramírez 399

7.15 9.0013.00 14.3017.00 18.30 20.00

Buses FernandezPh. 242313Arm. Sanhueza 745

8.00 9.0013.0014.3017.0018.3020.00

Bus PachecoPh 414513Baquedano 500

7.3010.0013.30 18.00

Bus PachecoPh. 242174Colón 900

8.3014.00 18.3019.30

Bus Sur Ph 411859Baquedano 668

7.00 15.00

Bus SurPh. 244464José Menéndez 552

15.00 19.00

Via Paine / Andescape - Eberhard 599 - Ph 412877Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Trip 1 Trip 2 Trip 1 Trip 2

Puerto Natales 7.30 14.00 Administration 13.00 18.00

Laguna Amarga 9.45 16.30 Pudeto 13.45 19.00

Pudeto 10.45 17.30 Laguna Amarga 15.00 19.45

Administration 11.45 18.00 Puerto Natales 17.00 22.00

Gomez -Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales 7.30 14.00 Administration 13.00 18.15

Laguna Amarga 9.45 16.30 Pudeto 13.45 19.00

Pudeto 10.45 17.30 Laguna Amarga 15.00 19.45

Administration 11.45 18.00 Puerto Natales 17.00 22.00

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales 7.30 10.30 14.00 Administration 13.00 18.30

Laguna Amarga 9.45 12.30 16.30 Pudeto 13.30 19.00

Pudeto 10.45 17.30 Laguna Amarga 14.30 17.30 20.00

Administration 11.45 18.00 Puerto Natales 17.00 19.30 22.00

Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park)El Calafate 5 hrs TDP L. Amarga 2 hrs 30Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto 3 hrs 15Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin 3 hrs 45

Remember: Hostería Las Torres operates a transfer that connects to all the buses that arrive at and leave from Laguna Amarga (cost is $2 USD).

Letter from the Editor - Rustyn Mesdag I am often amazed at how sometimes the littlest thing can make me as happy as a little kid. The smallest

things sometimes can boost my little world for days. Sometimes it comes in the form of a material object, like a new

little sticker for my truck (I never grew out of that) and sometimes it might be just the right temperature on just the

right day. Either way, its funny how something relatively simple can pack such a punch.

I recently heard a piece of news that has put me in a good mood all week. But first let me explain. You see,

both my parents were born in Indonesia. Of course they weren´t married at the time of their birth - that came later, but

they both hung onto traditions that later turned into the details of my upbringing. One of those details was our dinners.

Every dinner, for my first 18 years of life, had a big round bowl of rice in the center of it. Any occasion, every meal.

Anything we ate, came with rice. Brown rice, white rice, long grain rice, fried rice, wild rice and for leftovers, rice

pudding. No kidding, really. To this day no dinner is the same without it. Its burned in me forever.

So my incredible news... Puerto Natales now has a full scale Chinese Restaurant! I haven´t been this excited since

fast internet came to Natales. We are out here in Patagonia, by all normal standards we are in the middle of nowhere.

A chinese restaurant rates pretty high on my scale. Its called the Golden Dragon and its located downtown Puerto

Natales, on Bulnes 439. It just opened, go check it out. While you are there, stop for a moment and appreciate the

differences between your meal type and your geographic location. It´s a little strange, but I´m thrilled. Maybe I´ll see

you there, I´ll be the guy in the corner with a big bowl of rice.

�

November 2006

Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine Questions & Answers

er ra t i c rock 2

A hoste l a l te rnat ive for couples

Hoste l - Renta l - Gu ides - In fo

benjamin zamora 732 Pto Nataleswww.errat icrock.com

ph +56 61 414317Patagonia

Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chileph. +56-61 225889

www.patagonialternativa.com

Everything inPatagonia.

TrekkingKayakingPenguins

HorsesNavigation

patagoni alternativaHow far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 - 2.5 hrs.What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 - 8am.What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...

Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do, it depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3.500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free.So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Los Perros, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas.At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am.What about mid day? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, exept for the supermarkets.Where can I buy camping food in town? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located 1 block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes.How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you.What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? In summer, not freezing, but it can still get close sometimes.Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios?Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Is there a bus that goes to Calafate directly from Torres del Paine?Yes, it picks up at 5pm at Laguna Amarga. Call Calafate Travel for that transfer. It costs 20.000 from the park and from Pto. Natales it costs 10.000.What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question. But we put But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs pesos per person, one way, 17.000 round trip.Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios.

Can I cook in the refugios? In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities.Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits).How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter.Are there backpackers here in the winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet.What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast.What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket!?

It depends on where you are. Sometimes its fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T!A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first?No. Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it. Trust fate with regards to the weather. Plan your trek before hand and go with it.Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though.Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ideas when possible, but there is a lot of Patagonia out there that has no public buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town.Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone wobbles right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection.Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town.Why do I get given a piece of little receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with

food in the tent, with you.Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang.Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from TdP?No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know.

Tips...

Trail Etiquette On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience.

While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time.

Sticking to the trails is important. Step-ping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or a puddle only widens the trail or cre-ates a second, or sometimes third, trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Torres del Paine or on the Di-entes Circuit (Patagonia) . Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.

Toore Fri

ends & Drinks

RestoBaR

EbErhard 169 PuErto NatalEs, ChilE

A free information talk is given at Eratic Rock everyday at 3:pm about the Park, logistics, food prep, programs and basically everythng...

�


El Carmenére va en camino de convertirse en la cepa emblemática y/o diferenciadora de Chile, tal como ya lo han hecho los argentinos con el malbec, los uruguayos con el tannat o los españoles con el tempranillo, por ejemplo. Esta cepa es originaria de Burdeos, Francia y se usaba como parte de las mezclas para los grandes vinos bordeleses. En 1850, la cepa Carmenère desapareció de Europa producto de la crisis de la filoxera, un insecto devorador de las raíces de la vid.Pero por fortuna, un visionario viticultor chileno en la segunda mitad del siglo XIX inicio la sustitución de las antiguas cepas españolas por variedades francesas como Cabernet Sauvignon, Cot, Merlot, Pinot y Carmenère, esta cepa fue confundida por Merlot ya que se plantaron juntas. Pasaron casi tres siglos antes de su identificación en Chile. En 1993 viajó a Chile Sr. Jean Michel Boursiquot, ampelógrafo (la Ampelografía es la ciencia que describe e identifica las variedades del vino) quien junto con el enólogo chileno Philippo Pszcolkowski, descubrieron que en los viñedos Carmen de Alto el Merlot no era Merlot, sino que Carmenère.. Y así es como comienza a rescribirse la historia. Se concluyó entonces que la uva había logrado escapar ilesa de la plaga de filoxera junto con las primeras vides importadas que llegaron a Chile en el siglo XIX. El Carmenère se consume rápidamente, y satisface la demanda de aficionados que quiere beber vinos jóvenes y accesibles, gusta mucho tanto a hombres como a mujeres y es particularmente bueno para la persona que está comenzando a beber vinos tintos. Gracias a su frescura y exuberante sabor, se recomienda el Carmenère para acompañar platos suaves basados en carne, vegetales y frescas hierbas. Combina excepcionalmente bien con el cordero, algunas aves como el pollo y pato; todo tipo de quesos; atún o cualquier tipo de pasta y salsas

Recomendados por “Emporio de la Pampa” Cheese & Wine:

Un Carmenere?

TerrunyoCarmenere 2003Valle Cachapoal

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Casa SilvaGran ReservaCarmenere 2005Valle Colchagua

Casa SilvaDoña DomingaReservaCarmenere 2004Valle Colchagua

Mejicana 1174 Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile

CHEZ MOI... CHEZ VOUS...

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BernarditaResidencial

Regular dorms & Private rooms with breakfast, hot showers, phone, private bathroom and cable

TV - Tourist Infomation - Torres del Paine & surrounding areas

O´Higgins 765 - ph & fax (56-61) 411162Puerto Natales, Chile

email [email protected]

Resto-Bar & Cafe Phone +56 61 412239Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales

IMPRIMIENDO ALTA CALIDAD EN EL FIN DEL MUNDO

Aún recuerdo hace un par de años, cuando soñaba en mis largos viajes fotográfi-cos al Paine poder contar con una cámara digital. En épocas de diapositiva, muchas veces debía esperar meses antes de poder ver el resultado de una sesión fotográfica. Con la llegada de la fotografía digital y hecho de un computador portátil, pude darle otra dimensión al proceso gráfico y creativo, dándome el lujo de editar y trabajar mis proyectos gráficos en terreno. Pero todavía seguía dependiendo de laboratorios de la capital para lograr impresiones de calidad y eso toma mucho trabajo y tiempo. Gra-cias al compromiso y visión de Epson Chile, que supo apoyar proyectos de vida como el que he emprendido, ahora puedo realizar el trabajo gráfico completo, al más alto nivel y con completa autonomía. Es así como en mi estudio Puerto Natales ya todos podemos gozar de un equipo de calidad profesional que supera hasta el más sofisticado laboratorio fotográfico de la capital. La Epson Styuls Pro 4800 posee 8 cartuchos de tinta independientes elaborados con la ultima tecnología de pigmentos Ultrachrome K3, junto a la precisión de su tecnología y al papel Epson Luster 250 y Photo Glossy, puedo realizar impresiones de hasta 40 cm de ancho y formato panorámico de la mejor calidad disponible en el mercado actual. Agradeciendo el compromiso de Epson Chile con el desarrollo de este, mi proyecto de vida, pongo a la comunidad magallánica mis imágenes y las increibles impresiones que he podido lograr junto a mi Epson Stylus Pro 4800.

E P S O N w w w . w i l d p a t a g o n i a . c o m

-Diego Araya

EPSON STYLUS PRO 4800

�Unreasonable Men A Hero’s Story

The foundation of Punta Arenas is not just a story of renegades, hard and visionary entrepreneurs, cold blooded gold diggers, war deserters and lost sailors. It is also a story of unreason-able men. Men who did not

heed the common mans warnings. These were the sport adventurers, the original outdoor freaks of the first half of the 20th centuryMountain climbers, skiers, hikers, sport fishermen, all of them braving and fighting against the winds (literally), introduced their activities to the last frontier in the very early days of the century. They did it just for fun, or maybe just for the pleasure of the wind in their faces, or the sound of their skies.These young men are the anonymous heroes of the definitive foundation of Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales and the other few Patagonian towns.These men, the first Patagonia outdoor boys, together with the few first local artists, were the ones who transformed this territory from just a wild land waiting to be exploited into the wild land waiting to become a home.It´s said “...a reasonable man exepts the world the way it is. A unrea-sonable man questions it. Therefore progress is made by unreasonable men...” -This is one of those stories.

Winter of 1937, two young men, fanatics for the outdoors and the mountains, got together to discuss an important issue:The Punta Arenas local cinema had been announcing for some time the avant premier of the block buster Mexican movie “Allá en el Rancho Grande” with the great Tito Guizar in the main role. The film rolls were all ready in Puerto Natales after a long journey by ship from Valparaiso, but … the last snow storm blocked the road to Punta Arenas, there was

no way to get the films to the theatre, which meant no show. No Mexican divas, no dreadful “Bandoleros” and no “Tito”. Definitely a huge catastrophe for the local community. Ivo Stpicic with his friend Henning Willumsen, two fine representatives of the new spirit in Patagonia. After discussing this delema, a decision was made. They had skies, ruck sacs and lots of energy.And after long hours of discussions they came up with a simple plan: ski all the way from Punta Arenas to the remote Puerto Natales and back. It was a rescue mission: the film needed to be on time at the Punta Arenas cinema for the grand opening.With a deep and soft snow, the expedition turned out to be extremely exhausting. The 250 kilometres track was showing its worst face and the self imposed deadline was an additional factor of stress that didn’t help.In the mean while, rumours in Punta Arenas were spreading like bad weed, “the kids got lost” and “the crazy skiers got trapped in bad weather” others claimed. Finally, the day for the show, nobody really had big expectations. With no official announcement, everybody was pretty sure that the show was going to be cancelled. But our heroes came through. The winter of 1937 was a dark, cold and snowy winter. Punta Arenas learned a lesson that winter about this new spirit of recreation, leisure and sports. Ivo and Henning arrived that night, movie in tow. They became the heroes of Punta Arenas. They took the great Tito Gui-zar on their backs all the way through hard snowy routes just in time for the announced opening day. The next year, in 1938, Ivo and Henning together with other partners formed the “Club Andino” mountain club, 15 years later the club had 599 members. This club, in a very reduced version, still exists.I want to thank Mr. Sivestre Fugellie for enlightening us with this beauti-ful stories through his columns in the “Prensa Austral”.

NuevaImagen

Eusebio Lillo 1417Puerto Natales, Chile

ph +56-61 412052

Gymnasium & SpaHand & Foot Therapiesmachine & free weights

saunasun bed

Massage roomChocolate Therapy

Bar & Dancing

Restobar

Bulnes 343 Puerto Natales, Chile

Patagonia

FoodSnacks

DJ´s

DrinksLive MusicDancing

and more...

November 2006

Big photos, little camera -by Diego Araya

Many of you, like me, experience a deep pas-sion for nature and having a close encounter with a wild animal give us a great and inexpli-cable pleasure. Probably Torres del Paine Na-tional Park will offer you several opportunities to observe, on a very close range, the local wildlife. However if we don´t have a powerful telephoto lens, we can not always honor the moment. Below, I have a few suggestions and recommendations for you that can help you to portrait our beloved wildlife in a way that you never imagined with your small snapshot camera.1.-Light Direction: Especially on sunny days, the light direction is very important for highlighting our subject from the background;

so the face is properly lit. On mid-day, the sunlight is very strong and because it is directly above us, it gives a flat light with funny shadows. I recommend side light in the morning or evening, so that you get a pleasant and warm light.2.- Background: Normally we are so busy with our subject that we forget the background. Especially if we don’t have a big telephoto lens, the background is

very relevant. Locate the subject against a ridge with a blue sky or in front of snowy mountains, which gives us the image with an impressive atmosphere. 3. Composition: Unless we are capable to fill the frame with our subject, it’s very important to achieve a pleasant composition between the subject and the surroundings. Nor-mally we tend to locate the subject in the center of the frame, what is called “Dead in the Middle” and it doesn’t help to create any atmosphere around the image. I advise you to put the animal in the

lower part of the frame so we can win more sky, mountains...landscape instead of blurry dirt. The other little trick is leave always some “air” in the direction of the subject. This is referring to were he is going or looking.4. Attitude: Once you select a light direction that allows you to see a great background, choose a nice composition that shows our animal living in its habitat. It’s very important to take a moment and have the patience to achieve something special. If we can make our subject look at the camera, that gives us a sense of intimacy. If there are several subjects, a few minutes of patience can be the difference between a snapshot and a Black Sheep cover.

6

The Black Sheep would like to thank all the local buisnesses that make being a traveller a little easier.


Bulnes 299 Pto. Natalesph +56-61 412239

10% off anycafeteríapurchase

EMPORIO de la PampaEberhard 226 -Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile

This coupon redeemable is for a 10% dicount on a regional

cheese plate with the puchase of wine for two.

Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile

Rustike

10% off any purchase

ÑANDÚHand Crafts

Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122

5% off any purchase

Raices PatagonicasRestaurant

O´Higgins 623 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 56-61 410060

10% off Any regular meal

10% OFF Glacier Grey Ice Hike

This coupon is redeemable for a 10% dicount on Daily Ice Hikes on Glacier Grey. Valid for

2006-07 season. Can be redeemed at Eberhard 302, Baquedano 719 in Puerto Natales or at

the Operations Hut at Glacier Grey in Torres del Paine National Park.

E b e r h a r d 1 6 1 - P u e r t o N a t a l e s , C h i l e - p h + 5 6 - 6 1 4 1 5 7 4 9

10% off Massage

This coupon is redeemable for a 10% dicount on a 1 hour mas-sage. Valid season 2006-07.

double private room

for the price of 2 dorm beds

er ra t i c rock Baquedano 719 Pto Natales

www.erraticrock.com

expires Feb 1, 2007

(+56 61)[email protected]

10% off 2 Hr. Ride

Redeemable for 10% off - Valid until Nov 30, 2006

Magallanes 619 Punta Arenas, Chile ph. 221982

10% off penguin day tour

Touch the toe of the Patagonian Ice Field.We can get you there today.

10% off horse rides

ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281www.soloexpediciones.com

10% off penguin day

tourph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281www.soloexpediciones.com

enterance & bus not included

ServilLaundryLaundry Service

for Travellers

A. Prat 337 Puerto Natales, ChilePhone 412869

10% offfor laundry drop off before 10am

!0% Discount with

Black Sheep

Coupon!

Departing from the Glacier Grey Operations Hut in Torres del Paine

- Daily Ice Hikes- 1, 2 & 3 Day Seminars

- 9 Day Expedition Primers

[email protected] www.erratic rock.com

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Arturo Prat 156, La Plaza, Puerto Natales, Chile


Phone / Fax 56•61•415285Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales

Patagonia, Chile


This coupon is redeemable for a 10% dicount on chocolate, coffee, ice cream & brownies.

�

November 2006


There’s a slow but sure change underway in Puerto Natales; a growing consciousness of the impact of daily life on the environment and a movement towards reducing that impact. This is being led by local non-profit organisations such as Fundación Patagonia and AMA Torres del Paine. Fundación Patagonia’s mission involves developing collective, community-focused action to protect and conserve the biodiversity and the natural environment of southern Patagonia, while AMA Torres del Paine’s primary objective is to protect the green spaces of the Torres del Paine National Park.

One of the organisations’ ongoing projects is to bring recycling to the area, which is not only a worthwhile activity in itself but also helps to raise awareness among local people and visitors of the environment and our collective responsibility towards it.

Fundación Patagonia is already running a battery collection scheme, addressing one major area of concern for environmentalists. As they start to decompose, discarded batteries leak corrosive chemicals, which poison the ground around them and any watercourses nearby. The Foundation collects batteries, which will be sealed in “packages” wrapped in a special plastic coating. The packages will be inserted in cement blocks (reducing the volume of cement required), which will then be used in the construction projects such as Hotel Indigo, a new hotel on the Costanera of Puerto Natales.

You can find Fundación Patagonia’s glass receptacles for used batteries in Puerto Natales at the Post Office, the offices of Big Foot, Antares, Cascada, Chile Nativo and 21 de Mayo, in local schools and colleges as well as in Cerro Castillo, Dorotea and in the Administration Centre, Hotel Explora and Lodge Paine Grande within the Torres del Paine National Park.

Another emerging initiative supported by the Foundation is recycling of tin cans. A local entrepreneur, Don Juan, collects tins from restaurants, hotels and even private homes and sells them in Punta Arenas to a company that re-uses the metal. “Don Juan is keen to collect as many tins as possible. The issue is raising awareness of the service he provides among local businesses and homes and encouraging them to separate the tins from their general rubbish,” says Carolina Torres of Fundación Patagonia.

Fundación Patagonia and AMA Torres del Paine are also working on a glass recycling initiative with COANIQUEM (Corporación Ayuda al Niño Quemado), a charitable organisation based in Punta Arenas, which works with children suffering from burns. COANIQUEM collects any kind of glass

bottles and sells them on to Cristalerias Chile, which reuses the glass to make new bottles. Cristalerias Chile pays COANIQUEM a higher price per bottle than it would to a normal company due to its charitable status. So not only is there less waste to dispose of in the environment, but a very good cause benefits from a significant source of additional income.

Glass recycling is already underway in Torres del Paine. Christian Morales of AMA Torres del Paine, which is funded by the Hostería Las Torres and Fantástico Sur businesses based in Torres del Paine, has already sent one shipment of glass bottles to COANIQUEM and is hoping to persuade other organisations within the Park to join the initiative.

Projects such as these can only work with the cooperation and support of local people such as Don Ramón Gomez who has provided a plot of land where the bottles can be collected in sufficient quantity before being transported. Although in that lies another problem for the Magallanes area…

Recycling is relatively common in Chile but tends to be concentrated in the areas from Puerto Montt northward. South of Puerto Montt the Ice Fields begin, cutting the Magallanes region off from the rest of the country. Many services and initiatives that are well established in the north are not considered viable south of the ice fields. Luckily, the Navimag sails from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt regularly during the tourist season with cargo space to spare. Thanks to the cooperation of the Navimag, recycling projects such as COANIQUEM’s, can be made reality.

Yet Fundación Patagonia does not want to stop there. “We still have to sort out recycling of plastic and paper”, says José Luis Oyarzún, one of the founders of the organisation. “There are receiving organisations in Puerto Montt, we have to work on the logistics of collecting and getting the materials to them.” One of the Foundation´s future goals is to obtain containers to collect the bottles, tins, paper and plastic ready for shipping north. It also wants to find a lorry and fund workers to operate it, so that it can collect a different load on different days of the week initially from restaurants, hotels and other businesses within Puerto Natales and ideally from the Torres del Paine National Park as well.

If you would like to offer any support or a donation to help acquire the containers, contact Fundación Patagonia at Barros Arana 111, Puerto Natales (tel: +56 61 41 4611). Or tell your hotel or hostel owner about these initiatives and encourage them to join – Carolina would be delighted to provide details of how to get involved in the tin or glass recycling schemes. Ask for her at the Foundation. Being at the end of the world adds additional challenges to getting projects such as these off the ground. Your support can really help these valuable initiatives to become reality so that caring for the environment can become a part of everyday life in Puerto Natales in the future.

Recycling in Patagonia by S. Betty

Hostal Francis Drake Phone & Fax +56-61 411553 [email protected] Phillipi �8� Pto Natales, Chile

Comfortable rooms, Continental breakfast, private bathrooms,

24 hour reception, cable tv, multilingual, telephone

The penguin connection.

Downtown Punta Arenas · Magallanes 619 · www.aonikenk.com

Call 221982

Punta Arenas Info Museums Museo Salesiano Av. Bulnes 374 South Patagonian culture, history and nature. $2.000 Tue - Sun am: 10:00 - 12:30 Tue - Sun pm:15.00-18.00

Museo Regional Magallanes 949, next to the plaza ph (61) 244216 The former mansion of Mauricio Braun, containing regional history. Tue – Sat: $1.000, Sun: free Tue - Sat:10:30 – 17:00Sun: 10:30 - 14:00

Museo Naval y Marítimo Cnr Pedro Montt + O´Higgins ph (61) 205479 Shipwrecks, cartography, meteorology, local and national maritime history. Tue - Sat am: 9:30 - 12:30 Tue - Sat pm:14:00 - 17:00

Tourist InformationSernaturMagallanes 960 Opening timesPhone: (61) 248790

PenguinsSeno OtwayDaily16:00 pm 4.5hr trip (1.15hr to go, 2hr there, 1.5hr back)Transfer: 10.000 Entrance: 3.500

Isla MagdalenaTuesday, Thursday, Saturday16:00 p.m.5hr trip (2hr to go, 1hr there, 2hr back)Tour: 20.000 (Inclusive of entrance)

8


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Covering a beautiful and varied landscape filled with valleys, rivers, lakes and the high mountainous peaks of Torres del Paine, the territory of this province extends between approximately 50 and 53 degrees of southern laltitude and between 72,15 and 73,30 of occidental longitude.

There were many events that shaped the progress of its occupation and settlement, the first being the expedition of Captain Juan Fernández de Ladrillero who in 1557 navigated a large part of the maritime area, including the fjord called “Last Hope.” After more than three centuries had passed, a colony was started for the purposes of raising sheep in early 1892 thanks to the pioneering activities of Captain Hermann Eberhard and other hardworking landowners.

Without a doubt there were three important moments in the first years of the twentieth century that had an important effect on Natales’ history: the so called “Laudo Arbitral” that defined the border with Argentina in 1902, the acquisition of lands at the beginning of 1905 and the construction of the infrastructure in order to industrialize the exportation of sheep livestock by the Operating Society of Tierra del Fuego and finally, the foundation of the city of Puerto Natales in 1911.

From the time of Ladrillero until the first two decades of the twentieth century, the period to which a great part of the province’s buildings originate, it was only possible to enter by horse or boat from Punta Arenas to the eastern coast of the Almirante Montt Gulf through the Señoret Canal or Last Hope Sound. Even this didn’t prevent the precarious formation of sheep herding that extended to the Sierra Baguales in the north, to the mountainous hills in the west and occupying towards the east the lands that after the Laudo of 1902 remained in Argentinian territory. This area, however, owing to the distant and coastal Atlantic, maintained strong commercial and social links with the province of Last Hope until the advance of the twentieth century.

In the beginning of 1905, the Operating Society of Tierra del Fuego (SETF), bought the better part of the 500,000 hectares designated for sheepherding in the province, taking the place of the first landowners that had occupied those lands. In one decade, the SETF planned and brought about the construction of the origins of towns in Cerro Castillo, Cerro Guido, and the Bories Estate as well as a new network of roads and a train that transported its workers to and from Puerto Natales. The industrial establishment of Port Bories, today partly demolished, was one of the best hierarchies constructed in Chile at the beginning of the twentieth century, with a mixed architectural style of brick, wood and corrugated iron and a productive technology comparable to the industrial projects in Europe at that time.

The old parts of Cerro Castillo and the Bories Estate (today involved in other activities) are also an important inheritance given that they conserve with great measure their spatial

organization and distant warehouses for living, dining, offices and storage etc., with an esthetic austerity that remains united as a whole. Although dispersed in rural Last Hope, and of small proportions, there are many older parts such as those of Amarga Lagoon, Cerro Guido, Tres Pasos and what remains of Port Consuelo which all form the predecessors of the architectural inheritance of Last Hope.

In the Señoret Canal, in the vicinity of the Natales River (where the city of Puerto Natales got its name), some corrals, homes and scattered warehouses were gradually constructed at the end of the nineteenth century. A hotel with a general store was built by the businessman Rudolfo Stubenrauch and another was constructed by the Spaniard José Iglesias. In order to regulate this spontaneous settlement, in 1900 the government established a 200 hectares reserve and then assumed a planned design for a new village with 77 sites, finally being decreed in 1911 by the Supreme Court that officially founded the city. From this time and from an amplification of the original nucleus that was carried out in 1935, this infrastructure is in its original form with its principal streets that head towards the water and that frequently head off the wind and rain.

As testimony to the violent protests of 1919 and until the 1950 ́s, the majority of the workers were sheepherders from the meat packing plants of Port Bories and Port Natales and those with temporary work in the Argentine and Chilean estates.

The urban landscape was therefore of a city with apple trees surrounding the plaza and buildings bordering it with a modest architecture made of wood and corrugated iron, similar to the peripheral neighborhoods of Punta Arenas, where they had in some areas buildings made up of two floors, such as that of the Municipal building in Puerto Natales. The parochial church was the only brick building of its time and it was the work of the Salesian priest Juan Bernabé (1930). However, the artistic capacity of its settlers coming from Chiloé succeeding in setting up social meeting places and commercial establishments with distinctive characteristics that are to this day maintained as a valuable inheritance that was extended and renovated in the last few years.

Despite the fiscal investments in service and equipment brought about through the creation of the Department of New Hope (1928), with architecture different from the regional traditions, Natales recovered its urban dynamism only two decades ago as a result of the fishing and tourism industries. Because of the natural beauty that Father Dagostini discovered in this area in 1917, the Torres del Paine National Park was formed and made popular in 1961.

On the corner of Magallanes of Señoret ph 56-61-413723 www.cormorandelasrocas.com [email protected]

Art Gallery & Jewlery 56 61 411461 Eberhard 318 Puerto Natales

The Province of Last Hope Cristina Yañeztourist CENtEr PuErto dEl EstrECho

Travel info - Internet - Cafeteria - HandCrafts - Souvenirs - Phone Center - Travel Agency - Money Exchange - Rental Cars & more...

Lib. Bernardo O’Higgins 1401 - Puerto Arturo Prat, Punta Arenas ph241022 [email protected]

�

November 2006

Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chileph. +56-61 225889

Money ExchangePatagonia will change your life.

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Tips...

Fuel Efficiency While trying to pack light, taking your fuel into consideration helps. Bringing more fuel then you really need just means more weight to carry. On the other side of the coin, not enough fuel can cause problems. Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel.

-Don´t over boil your water, it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you are ready to start a boil is also only heating the fresh air.

-Use a lid on your pot. It holds the heat in and allows for a faster boil.

-Use a wind screen. Wind will carry your heat from under your pot and redirect it from your food. Using a wind shield will aim the heat up and under your pot. If you don´t have a aluminum wind screen, rock from your campsite will also help protect your heat.

- Many outdoor manufactures (such as MSR) now make heat exchangers that fit around you pot as an insulation. Between this and a wind screen, you can cook in almost any conditions.

Hace unos minutos que sobrevuelo el Canal Beagle a bordo del twin otter de Dap airlines rumbo al pueblo más austral del planeta, es mi primera visita y seguramente al igual que los lectores no tengo mucha información acerca de que esperar en mi destino, en mi cabeza solo cabe imaginería y nombres llenos de aventura. Pero como no echar a volar la imaginación al nombrar Cabo de Hornos, Paso Drake, Canal Beagle, Charles Darwin, la última mujer Yagan. Como, en mi posición de fotógrafo, no llenar

estos instantes con imágenes asombrosas de estos parajes y su gente. Lo que si traigo son nombres que hablan de los atractivos turísti-cos de Navarino, pero que en estos minutos de vuelo sobre las espesas nubes también se llenan de ideas y fantasía. Ukika, Omora, Micalvi, Dientes de Navarino son seguramente los mismo nombres que cada visitante trae en su morral junto a sus sueños de fin de mundo. Pero a diferencia de la mayoría de los turistas en transito, yo hice Patagonia mi hogar y el destino me ha permitido venir a esta, la última estación de América, a transformar mi imagin-ería en imágenes. De pronto, entre la bruma aparecen bosques y fiordos sólo unos instantes antes de tocar tierra en Isla Navarino. Como? No hay taxis, y como me voy al pueblo? Hay cosas que sólo tienen sen-tido en realidades como las de Puerto Williams. Ya instalado en Pusaki, Hostal que llamare hogar por siempre, me lanzo a la aventura incierta de desentra-ñar el alma de este pueblo. A unos pocos metros y atraído por la graciosa expresión de su perro, tropiezo con Pikindeil, ex marino y dueño del Albatros, el único bar del pueblo. Con “el loco” compartimos unos minutos de historia y entre risas y sus delirantes expresiones faciales comprendí rápidamente que esta historia no sería de senderos ni atractivos turísticos, que Williams es lo que es gracias a su gente y que cada uno de sus atractivos tiene una historia, es el resultado de los sueños de uno de los personajes de Williams. Es así que los invito a descubrir en las ediciones venideras, aquellas historias que viven tras ese rostro que miles de visitantes observan pero muy pocos alcanzan a conocer. Aquellas vidas e historias que dan identidad propia a esta comunidad, que son el alma de Williams.

Quisiera sin duda haber podido conocer más, haber escarbado más en el alma de este puerto lejano, pero mi misión aquí sólo fue registrar imágenes. Me perdonarán aquellos pedacitos del alma que han quedado fuera de esta, mi parcial y humilde alegoría de viaje. Pero me voy satis-fecho, he recorrido sus calles, he disfrutado de su ritmo, he heredado algunas de sus historias y he conocido a muchos de los personajes que le dan identidad a este pueblo terminal. Y a pesar de haber solo alcanzado a olfatear ese saborcillo tan particular que se respira en Navarino,

en la semana que perteneci a su historia pude sentir a viva piel que este es sin duda puerto seguro para soñadores y sus emprendimientos. Con tanto por hacer, con un entorno tan lleno de magia y desafíos y con una comunidad a es-cala humana, este es puerto para hacer de tu vida algo monu-mental, para marcar la diferencia, para hacer

patria, para hacer historia, para hacer empresa, para

hacer el cambio, para conservar. Y a pesar de la distancia, el clima y los vicios propios de una comunidad tan encerrada en si misma, descubrí un puerto para los sueños más etéreos, conocí a aquellos que con su trayecto por la vida pasarán a la historia del Cabo de Hornos con sus sueños. Al despegar, navarino me despide con un tibio sol pero me ofrece tímida y respetuosa su sen-sual silueta de costa y ondonadas, de montañas y fiordos interminables. Más que un adiós, le lanzo un hasta pronto y comienzo a recorrer en mi cabeza todos esos momentos, todos esos personajes y sus historias que son simplemente el alma de Puerto Williams.

El alma de Puerto Williams by Diego Araya

Bulnes 285 ph (56-61) 411263 (56-61)411129 ex. 148e-mail museonat23mail.cl

Mon - Fri 8:00 - 19:00 Sat 10:00-13:00 / 15:00 – 20:00 Entrance $500 CLP (National Visitor) $1000 CLP (International Visitor)

Children up to 12 years old free of charge

10


Una fuerza laboral que mueve un parque Con una visión interna los “porteadores”, algunos conocidos, otros de caras nuevas, son una realidad en el parque, que cada año se ha ido in-crementando, con buenos y malos momentos, de caminatas largas y agotadoras, azotadas por las in-clemencias del clima que son conocidas por todos los que trabajamos en estos hermosos parajes. Si bien no están en algún tipo de asoci-ación que les permite organizarse mejor, hay al-gunos de ellos que esperan y como pequeñas “mi-croempresas”, cada uno de ellos están cumpliendo

con las necesidades del momento en el parque. El estigma que llevan de malos hábitos es fuerte. Es por eso que urge una asociación para darle el res-peto a un trabajo duro del cual no pueden prescind-ir las compañías de turismo y también escaladores. Solo es cosa de encontrarles por los senderos y te darás cuenta de quienes son: en sus shorts y pol-eras con manga corta, con una mochila enorme, generalmente corriendo y con una sonrisa agotada. Siempre te preguntaras ¿cuanto peso lleva? ¡Uf, es harto! Es por eso que deberían regularizarse entre ellos en un todo, reglamentado y sus rodillas y es-paldas a la larga se los agradecerán. Las empresas de turismo que hacen

uso de esta fuerza laboral que mueve un parque deberían exigirles y no optar por lo más barato y contratar sus servicios sin un seguro mínimo de salud. Ya las hay pero faltan, solo así se le dará la real importancia a este trabajo. He visto en cinco años a muchas perso-nas porteando, incluso guías, personal logístico de campamentos y mujeres. En realidad, es un trabajo no mal pagado, tentador en ocasiones, así por ejemplo cuando viene algún tipo de filmación como comerciales que son por poco tiempo, traen mucho equipo y es allí donde el porteador tome más importancia. Son jornadas extensas, extenu-antes, pero así también es el dinero que se recibe.

Creo que en el parque hay personas muy conocidas en este trabajo por todos aquellos que trabajamos el él. Sería mezquino al mencionar algún nombre. También sus anécdotas trabajando son alegres, si quieres divertirte y pasar un buen rato, conversa con ellos cuando les encuentres descansando ya en cada camping. Para terminar, solo quiero agradecer al Black Sheep por preocuparse de ellos, tomar la visión diferente y mostrársela al público, dando a conocer así un noble trabajo.

Porteadores By Alexis Tapia Cruz

11

November 2006

79% Water & Ice.You´ll need a kayak.

Patagonia.

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“Gauchos”, heard this word? I dare say that you have, but, have you ever heard of “Baqueanos”? I am afraid you probably haven’t. Before going into that, let us define what and where Patagonia is from a geographic viewpoint.

We can say that it is a territory shared by southern Argentina and southern Chile and also that its original inhabitants, where first known as “Patagonians”.They lived on both sides of the artificial borderline, therefore all of their country – is Patagonia, the land of the Patagonians. However, although the line that separates these countries is an artificial division, there is a main difference between Chilean and Argentinean (Pantagonia).

The Argentinean part belongs to the Atlantic basin which extends, like a huge bed sheet, from the peaks of the Andes to the Atlantic coast, more than one thousand kilometres away. It is a plain, dry, windy and boringly flat land known as the pampa. This is the land of the famous steak eaters, the Gauchos. They are the equivalent of the American cowboys. From the southern part of Brazil all the way down to the wild south Atlantic coast line, the gauchos and their horses rule country life.

On the Chilean side though, there is no space for the outspoken and party loving “Gauchos”. Western Patagonia (the part that now belongs to Chile) is of a very different morphology, therefore requires very different skills. If you grab any world map you will immediately see, that this part of Patagonia is a huge mess.Long and narrow fjords, irregular mountain chains, huge ice fields, infinite numbers of lakes and rivers, all this forms a very difficult terrain full of microclimates and tricky passes. Such countryside requires very special and unique type of country people. That is where the “Baqueanos” come in. Some define a “Baqueano” as: an expert, and it is partially true.

A “Baqueano” not only knows the horse and cattle business, he most of all needs to know his territory. No matter how big and difficult a river seems, the “Baqueano” knows when and where to cross it. A glacier might be enormous, but the “Baqueano” knows how to cut through and how to get with the cattle to the other side. A Baqueano is also a solitary, but he is not something like a cave man or similar, no, a common characteristic of a Baqueano’s hut or house is normally immaculately clean…with a few exceptions, of course. He usually lives alone, for long seasons he stays there taking care of the animals, breaking horses and then, before the season changes, he is back on the trail herding the cattle.

This is the main difference in between a “Gaucho” and a “Baqueano”, both are great horse people and hard workers, but the first ones know how to work in the monotony of the endless pampas, sharing their skills and time with others like him, while the “Baqueano” knows how to move in the tricky and difficult territory of western Patagonia in solitude and always staying “cool”. Between these two Patagonian cowboys there is no rivalry, but a true mutual respect. In fact, a “Baqueano” who wants to say that someone is a good guy will say: “He is a real “gaucho””. And a gaucho who wants to talk of someone that really knows his stuff will say “he is a proper “Baqueano””.

Gauchos and Baqueanos by Max Salas

There is the place in Patagonia where hard-working colonists arrived from Europe at end of the nineteenth century and gave life to promising cattle industry. This began in 1877 when the first 300 sheep were introduced from the Falkland Islands, Pto. Bories.The visionary German colonist, Rodolfo Stubenrauch, began with the construction in 1905 when he established a talloshop. In the coming years, the biggest Patagonian company, “Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego”, created in 1893, built the large factory called Frigorifico Bories. Here they proccessed thousands of sheep by the year 1915.These magnificent buildings, made of brick, remind us of the post-Victorian ages with its European style. It is easy to recognize the locomotive garage, the workshop, the old employees office, the big skin-building and the talloshop. Also you can see the weighing room, which is in front of the dock where the big ships arrived from Europe. They came to obtain the frozen products, which were exported mainly to England.The boiling room and machines room, symbolizes the energetic heart of the refrigeration industry and the tremendous progress achieved in the early years of the twentieth century.This museum is the silent reflection of the thousands of colonists who tirelessly worked and formed the future of these southern landscapes, specially Last Hope which by itself, grew and gave birth to the city Puerto Natales, in 1911.

Local historyPuerto Bories, Chile

Perhaps during your stay in Chile you have noticed a piquant sauce served with your meals at restaurants. Try making it yourself with the following recipe:

1⁄2 kg. chili cream (red) 1 cup minced onion.1 cup minced coriander.1 spoonful fine minced garlic1 spoonful red pepper (cut in little pieces)1 spoonful green pepper (cut in little pieces)Salt, oregano, black pepper and powdered cumin to taste � spoonfuls marigold oil.wine vinegar

Mix all the ingredients in bowl, adding wine vinegar till the sauce gets a soft slippery texture. Store in a plastic or glass container, in a fresh, dry place or in the fridge.Use to spread on bread, sandwich, as a dip for vegetable crudites, all kinds of meat, fish, soups, cheese, and many other meals.

WARNING: Avoid leaving the sauce within reach of children under 12, in case of accidentally eating just sip natural water and breathe normally.

Pebre Chacaneitorby Miguel Angel Chacana

Solo ExpedicionesBoat through the Straits...

José Nogueira 1255 Punta Arenasph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281

www.soloexpediciones.net www.soloexpediciones.com

Trips to:-Isla Magdalena-Isla Marta-Cabo Froward-Whale Watching-Fishing

Solo ExpedicionesEstancia Rió de los ciervos

Only 5 km from Punta Arenas…Lodging, regional foods and programs

in a traditional Patagonian style.

ph: (56-061) 710219-243354-262281www.soloexpediciones.net

12

In Pto. Natales...

This coupon redeemable for

2 for 1Espresso

Blanca Encalada 226 - Puerto Natales, Chile

Start your trip with a good breakfast & real coffee.

Starting a 7:00am.


Puerto Natales Map & Phone Numbers

Puerto Williams, Chile

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Ave. Costanera

Bernardo O’Higgans

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Beagle Channel

Via CuatroVia Tres

Subteniente Capdeville

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Piloto Pardo

Boating trips - Ultima Esparanza - 2 hoursPuerto Natales City TourMultiple Depatures Daily

Ph (56-61) 414725Blanco Encalada

226 Pto Natales, Chile

Your Park MapDon’t forget...

Your park map that you receive at the entrance contains a lot of useful informa-tion. On the map itself you will find average trekking times from camp to camp, as well as the bus roads. On the backside of the map you will find a great elevation gain grid, distances in kilome-ters and a rating system.The reverse side of the map also has sunrise and sunset times and info on flora and fauna....but oh yeah, it’s all in spanish.

EmergencyAmbulance 131Fire 132Police 133Hospital Punta Arenas (61) 205000Hospital Pto. Natales (61) 411582Navimag Pto. Montt (65) 432300Pto. Natales (61) 411642AirlinesDAP (61) 223340Lan Chile (61) 6005262000Sky Airlines (61) 6006002828Aerolineas del Sur (61)800710300AiportsPto. Montt (65) 294161Pta. Arenas (61) 211731Santiago (02) 6901752TourismCONAF (61) 411438Sernatur (61) 412125Te

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EBERHARD 230 / CASILLA 42 PUERTO NATALES / CHILE PH 56 61 411835 / [email protected]

Trekking - Horseback Riding - Birdwatching - Photo Safari - Whale Watching - Kayaking

13

November 2006

Aerovías DAP, es la empresa de transporte aéreo de la Patagonia, territorio que presenta una extensión de más de un millón de kilómetros cuadrados de bosques, glaciares, pampas y cumbres del fin del mundo. La inmensidad y lejanía de estas tierras, junto a las difíciles condiciones climáticas hacen de la conectividad un desafió permanente, tarea que por mas de 20 años, DAP ha desarrollado de manera integral. Unir las localidades más australes y realizar vuelos al continente Antártico, es sin duda un gran logro, que ha permitido que personas de todo el mundo se deleiten, exploren y conozcan estos prístinos paisajes.Volar junto a aerovías DAP, es una aventura sin límites, que permite llegar a retiradas localidades y a tierras casi inexploradas por el hombre, donde solo habitan especies que logran soportar temperaturas y condiciones extremas. DAP a través de sus vuelos regulares y vuelos charter pueden alcanzar cualquier punto geográfico de Magallanes y Antártica Chilena, una región llena de secretos y leyendas. La empresa cuenta con una variada flota de aviones y helicópteros los cuales

cumplen con todas las normas de seguridad necesarias sumadas a la experiencia de pilotos de reconocida trayectoria. Entre su flota se destacan: Aviones DASH - 7 , TWIN OTTER DHC- 6, BEECHCRAFT, CESSNA 402 , HELICÓPTEROS AS 355, HELICÓPTEROS BO-105, AERORESCATE -BO-105. Además, de transporte de pasajeros y carga, cabe destacar que la empresa DAP cuenta con servicios en las siguientes áreas: servicios industriales, servicios turísticos, evacuación aeromédicas, control de incendio, transporte de alevines, transporte de prácticos, entre otros. Con la experiencia e impecable trayectoria de esta empresa por los cielos australes, usted puede estar confiado de recorrer la Patagonia en buenas manos.

Informaciones y reservas:O´Higgins 891 Tel.: 56-61-223340 E-mail: [email protected] Punta Arenas - Chile

Aerovías DAP - Uniendo la Patagonia

Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Questions & AnswersHow do I get to Puerto Williams? To get to Isla Navarino/Puerto Williams you have three main choices: The first is the slightly uncomfortable but adventurous ferry that takes you 36 hours from Punta Arenas, the second is the twin otter that flies you across the Darwin ranges and takes you 1 hour and 15 minutes, and the third is to go via Ushuaia and cross the beagle channel by zodiac. The choice is yours.Where is the downtown of Pto Willliams? It is strange to think that such a small place seems to have two centers. One is the centro commercial where you will find the post and DAP office, and then there are the supermarkets which are found facing each other along the road Piloto Pardo.Where can I sleep? There are actually quite few places to stay. Some are cheaper than others. There is a luxuary hotel which is pretty expensive, and then there is a range of hostels and residenciales around town.

Are there any internet cafes on Isla Navarino? Yes! But the connection is not so good. The two cyber cafés are at the Akainij travel agency in the centro comercial and the other is up the hill and is called Cape Horn Net Cyber Café. Can I rent equipment on Isla Navarino? Turismo Shila in the Centro Comercial provides a range of camping equipment. Another possibility is to take a guide which provides the equipment.Where can I find camping gas? Turismo Shila as well as some hostels sell camping gas.What can I find to do in downtown Pto. Williams? Well….you´ll just have to come and find out.How old is this town? The town was established in 1953 as a naval base.Why is the town here? Geopolitics.Can I drink the water on Isla Navarino?

Yes you can, but be careful with drinking the water from beaver dams.Are there any animals I need to worry about on Navarino? Not really, but sometimes the dogs can be an annoyance.Do I have to pay anything to trek on the Dientes? Nope, free!Where do I start my trek?At Pilot Pardo Street - the cops. You have to leave info about your itinerary and return date. From there you can head to either one of the two trailheads. How do I get to Ushuia from here?Ushuaia is NORTH (as in not south) from Williams. There is a Zodiac which has regular crossing from Isla Navarino to Ushuaia. Its fairly pricey but still a good option if you don’t want to backtrack. Information for this can be found at Café Angelus at the Centro Comercial.Where can I find an Dientes map? Ooooo. That’s a tough one. There are Trekking guides available at the tourism

agencies. Because there were only a few printed they usually ask you to photocopy them. Why are half of the buildings white in Pto. Williams? The white buildings are the armada, (navy), buildings which house their offices and families.Is there a money machine in Williams? Yep, and it is 24hrs as well. Its at the Banco de Chile.

Can I rent a car in Pto. Williams? No.What time do the stores open? Usually between 1000 and 1300, and then from 1600/1700 to 2000. The supermarkets are open from nine in the morning to twelve at night.How many people visit Williams in a season?Well, in a year there are about 8000 visitors to the island. Of this about 6000 are cruiseship passengers and 2000 overnight tourists that usually go trekking. How big is Isla Navarino? 40 by 100KM.Why does everyone say that Ushuia is the southernmost city in the world? This has been a false rumor that has been circulating for years to draw people to Ushuaia. Some say there are differences between a city and a town, but whatever - there is no place to live further south then Puerto Willliams.How far is Cape Horn? Its about 165km south of Puerto Williams.Can I get to Cape Horn or Antarctica from Puerto Williams?Yes you can, but it will cost ya. Several yachts leave Puerto Williams to these destinations during the summer season.Are there any other towns on Isla Navarino?Yes, but they are even smaller. Puerto Toro is truly the southernmost town in the world and is only reached by boat. Puerto Navarino is basically two families big and then there are some farms around.What is the population of Puerto Williams?2262

Puerto Williams, Chile

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Patagonias Airlines

Making your adventure possible...

[email protected]

Punta Arenas - Porvenir - Puerto Williams Frequency From To Time Cost clp RT

Mon toSat

Mon, Wed, Fri

P. Arenas Porvenir 8.15 $35.503Porvenir P. Arenas 8.35P. Arenas Porvenir 12.30 $35.503Porvenir P. Arenas 12.50

Mon to Sat

P. Arenas P. Williams 10.00 $98.639P. Williams P. Arenas 11.30

Tuesday P. Arenas P. Williams 15.00 $98.639P. Williams P. Arenas 16.30

Flights - DAP Information

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Hostel oro Fueguino Fagnano 356 Punta arenas - CHile

reservations: [email protected]

Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052Puerto Natales, Chile

Rustike

Candles · Lamps · Picture frames

Incense · Mirrors · Art · Crafts

Stained glass · Handicrafts

Kooch; el creador de la Patagonia by V. Irribarra

Entre los más hermosos relatos pertenecientes a la cosmovisión del pueblo Aónikenk o Tehuelche (pueblo nómade, cazador y recolector que habitaba la región a la llegada de los Europeos junto con los kaweskar y yamanas de los canales australes y los Selk’nam de Tierra del Fuego), se encuentra el relato de la creación de la Patagonia por manos de Kooch, al cual se debería la existencia de sus inconfundibles elementos... el mar, la luz, el sol, el viento, las nubes y la vida sobre la tierra... este relato nos habla también de la cercana relación de este pueblo con la Patagonia vasta y diversa, dependiendo para su subsistencia de los recursos naturales, animales y vegetales aquí existentes.

“...Dicen los antiguos que hace muchísimo tiempo no había tierra, ni mar, ni sol..... Solamente existía la densa y húmeda oscuridad de las tinieblas...En medio de ella vivía, eterno Kòoch. Nadie sabe por que, un día Kòoch, que siempre había estado “bastado a si mismo”, se sintió muy solo y se puso a llorar, lloró tantas lagrimas, durante tanto tiempo que con su llanto formo el mar, el inmenso océano donde la vista se pierde... Cuando Kòoch se dio cuenta de que el agua crecía y que estaba a punto de cubrirlo todo, dejo de llorar y suspiro. Y ese suspiro tan hondo fue el primer viento, que empezó a soplar constantemente, abriéndose paso entre la niebla y la oscuridad, así Kooch creo la luz...Algunos dicen que fue así, por los empujones del viento, que la niebla se disipo, otros creen que en la oscuridad, Kooch levanto el brazo y con su gesto hizo un enorme tajo en las tinieblas. Dicen

también que el giro de su mano origino una chispa, y que esa chispa se convirtió en el sol, Xàleshen, como llamaban los tehuelches al gran astro, el cual se levanto sobre el mar e ilumino ese paisaje magnifico.A su vez, Xaleshen formo las nubes, que de allí en masa se pusieron a vagar, incansables, por el cielo matizando el agua con su sombra, pintándola con grandes manchones oscuros... Luego Kòoch se dedico a su obra maestra. Primero hizo surgir del agua una isla muy grande, y luego dispuso allí los animales, los pájaros, los insectos y los peces. Y el viento, el sol y las nubes encontraron tan hermosa la obra de Kòoch que se pusieron de acuerdo para hacerla perdurar: el sol iluminaba y calentaba la tierra, las nubes dejaban caer la lluvia bienhechora, el viento se moderaba para dejar crecer los pastos... la vida era dulce en la pacífica isla de Kòoch. Entonces el creador, satisfecho, se alejo cruzando el mar. A su paso hizo surgir otra tierra cercana y se marcho rumbo al horizonte, de donde nunca mas volvió...”

Leyenda Popular del Pueblo AónikenkEste relato mágico es una invitación de los antiguos para que durante tu estadía en la Patagonia contemples sus hermosos paisajes donde los diferentes elementos se entremezclan caprichosos para entregarnos colores, luces y formas siempre cambiantes...y tal vez la próxima ves que observes la pampa, el mar o las montañas australes recordaras que detrás de ellos esta la benevola mano de Kooch...

Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales tel: 413829

Private & group yoga sessions daily

www.susalatino.com

PATA

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Carlos Bories 2�8 Puerto Natales, Chilephone (56-61) 410913

[email protected]

Cerro Bandera circuit: Starting from la Cascada de la Virgen, located 3 km from downtown, this roundtrip circuit takes approxi-mately 4 hours, with easy to moderate difficulty. From the summit point you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Beagle Channel and Dientes de Navarino range.Circuito Dientes de Navarino: This is the southern most trekking circuit in the world. The 53km takes at least 4 days. The difficulty is moderate to difficult. The climate conditions are absolutely a deter-mining factor in the completion of the circuit (September-April). Sendero de Chile: Isla Navarino holds the last 4.5km of the south-ernmost section of the longerst trek in the world. This section on Isla Navarino begins in the Cascada Róbalo area, on the way to Cerro

Bandera and ends at the Etno-Botanic Omara park. This is a great trek for viewing the abundant vegetation of Isla Navarino and its

beautiful landscapes.

For more detailed information about Isla Navarino trekking contact the Puerto Williams municipality at [email protected]. Most newer guidebooks include a Isla Navarino section althought the information is limited. Inquire locally and be prepared for the unexpected. Head out fully equipped with extra food, fuel and time.

Other circuits in Navarino:

Circuito Caleta Unión to Caleta Wulaia

Circuito Punta Rosales to Lago Windhond.

Circuito Caleta Eugenia to Puerto Toro

Isla Navarino Trekking Guide

Now printable from ANYWHERE in the world...

WWW.HOSTALALCAZAR.CL

M.Balmaceda 722 • • [email protected]

All private bathrooms!


15

Gore-Tex SleepingbagsTents Soft shellsSocks T-shirtsUnderware Fleece

urvival

tore

SutdoorOS

Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, [email protected]

Official Torres del Paine® dealer

November 2006

I am from the United States and teach English at the Liceo Politecnico, a technical high school in Puerto Natales. For weeks prior to my first day of classes, I was riddled with anxiety, full of questions and doubts that could not be answered or pacified until the first bell sounded. What types of things are students interested in down here? Will their passions be consistent with mine? How do I bridge the cultural gap? Do they like Hemingway? Do they know Hemingway? Within moments of entering the class and beginning my introduction, I realized my anxiety had been in vain; the answers to the questions which only moments before I considered crucial were suddenly irrelevant, obsolete. The applicable question in the case of my students is not, do you like Hemingway, but rather, why is there value in someone hypothetically liking Hemingway, or anything for that matter, that is taught through formal education. The daunting challenge I face is convincing the students at my school that knowledge in general, and education specifically, is extremely important, if not for its own sake, than at least for the opportunities it provides. There is a tenth grade student in my school named Fancisco. His mother was a prostitute and his father also named Francisco, was a fisherman. Unfortunately, shortly after Francisco Junior’s birth, his mother abandoned him, as she did her two other children, leaving Francisco senior to raise the children alone. This proved especially difficult because for weeks at a time Francisco senior would be at sea earning the money necessary to keep his children healthy and fed. He is virtually illiterate, with no formal education, making it all but impossible to change careers to something that would keep him consistently employed closer to home. Victor, Fransisco Junior’s older brother, decided to follow in his father’s footsteps by dropping out of school and fishing. One day out at sea, while attempting to pull in his catch, his jacket became entangled with the net and he was pulled overboard, swallowed up by the freezing water never to be seen again. Not long did the family have to grieve before news that Francisco Senior had contracted cancer in the pancreas and colon which will shortly take his life. Now Francisco Senior is at a crossroads. He can undergo a relatively risky operation (I use vague language here because statistics are impossible to come by) in an attempt to improve the quality of his life by mitigating his insufferable pain for his final

months, or he can simply endure the pain until his time comes and die “naturally.” If Francisco were considering only himself, like most of us, he would opt for the surgery as the medical professionals have strongly recommended. For Francisco, however, the only thing more unbearable than his physical torment is his fear that if he were to die before Francisco Junior was to finish the tenth grade, his son would be left literally alone, would drop out of school, and follow the ill-fated path his father and brother traversed before him. Therefore, Francisco has chosen to bear his suffering and will himself to live until Christmas, at which time his son will have completed the tenth grade and will be eligible to choose a career path to follow for the next two years. In summation, Francisco’s dying wish is to see his son complete the tenth grade. What about after Christmas? What happens when his father finally capitulates and cancer claims yet another victim? These are the questions I hope we can answer together, with a collective will strong enough to overcome the seemingly insurmountable hurdles Francisco Junior now faces. How? We can start by providing him with incentives to continue his education. If Francisco remains in school, even after his father passes away, he needs to receive tangible incentives to help him on his way. The first step, however, is to expose Francisco Junior to different career choice alternatives, which is the primary educational objective of his school. One such alternative that Francisco Junior has expressed interest in is cooking, and our school should aim to provide him with as much information and support for that pursuit as possible. In collaboration with the school, we can raise money to provide him with cookbooks, literature on the culinary arts and cooking supplies. Additionally, on a slightly grander scale, we could fund cooking classes or offer him a year free of charge at a Patagonian cooking school. Francisco senior, without financial aid or ideological backing from his community, and despite his crippling physical anguish and imminent death, still holds his son’s education paramount. If we answer the call, and help this boy realize the power of education, the news will permeate through the school, inspiring others who are disillusioned with the system and have little hope for a bright future. Comprehending and appreciating Hemingway would have been an amazing feat, but I feel I found a more fundamental lesson to teach the students of my school, one I hope they will appreciate long after I am gone.

If you wish to help, you can make a donation at Mandala Andino, address 161 Eberhard or Erratic Rock Hostel -or you can email me at: [email protected]

Cooking up a Miracle by Andrew Wade

Tips... Horses on the trail If you encounter horses or other stock on the trail, move off to the side so they have the freedom to pass. Horse packers prefer it when move off to the down hill side of the trail. This way if their horses spook, they go uphill rather than shooting downhill where it is harder to stay in control. It also helps the horse and rider if you greet them as they are riding up on you. This way the horses are better able to recognize you as a human.

Hostales/Hostels Fono/Phone Direccion/Adress e-mail address

Cabo de Hornos 621067 Ricardo Maragaño 146 [email protected] 621033-621384 Patricio Capedeville 41 [email protected]ón 621227-621227 Ricardo Maragaño 168 [email protected] del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Uspashun 64 [email protected] 621267 Villa Ukika [email protected] 621267-621075 Yelcho 230 [email protected] 621116-621224 Piloto Pardo 222 [email protected] 621118-621334 Piloto Pardo 260 [email protected] Akainij 621173-621173 Austral 22 [email protected] Lakutaia 621733-621298 Seno Lauta s/n [email protected] El Padrino 621136 Costanera 276 [email protected]

Restaurantes/ Restaurants Café Agelus 621080 Centro comercial norte 151 [email protected] naval de yates Micalvi 621042 Seno Lauta Costanera s/n [email protected] de Hornos 621067 Ricardo Maragaño 146 [email protected] 621033-621384 Patricio Capedeville 41 [email protected] de Navarino 621074 Centro comercial Sur 14 Patagonia 621267-621075 Yelcho 230 [email protected]

Agencias de turismo/ Tourist agenciesTurismo Akainij 621327-621173 Centro comercial Sur 156 [email protected] aventura Shila 621366 O´Higgins 322 [email protected] del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Uspashun 64 [email protected] SIM 621150- 621225 Ricardo Maragaño 168 [email protected] Native tours 621183 Centro Comercial Sur 154b [email protected] Victory Cruises 621010-621092 Teniente Muñoz 118 www.victory.cruises.com

Café Internet/ Cyber CaféCape Horn Net cyber café 621010-621092 Teniente Muñoz 118 [email protected] Akainij 621327-621173 Centro comercial Sur 156 [email protected]

Tiendas de Souvenier/Giftshops55°Sur 621265 Centro comercial norte 147 Isla hornos souvenier 621734 Centro comercial sur 140b [email protected]

Servicio de guias/guide servicesFuegia&CO 621251 Yelcho 232 [email protected]

Transporte/TransportsServicio de taxi 621387 Mario Leal 145Servicios maritimos y turisticos 621015 Costanera 436 [email protected] DAP 621114-621051 Centro comercial sur 151 [email protected] boating 54 2901 436193 Gob.Godoy 190-Ususahia [email protected] peregrino austral 621015 Costanera 436 [email protected] Lancha Dep. 621294-621075 Yelcho 230 [email protected] agencia maritima 621049 Arturo Prat 35 [email protected]

Otros Servicios Cabalgatas el padrino 621136 Costanera 262 [email protected] Martin Gusinde 621043 Com.Aragay 1 esq.Gusinde [email protected] del Beagle 621136 costanera s/n [email protected]

Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Tourist Directory

16

EMPORIO de la Pampa

Cheese, wines & bread

Retail, coffee shop,Chilean wines, homemade brown breadand locally produced gourmet cheese.

Eberhard 226 Puerto Natales

Patagonia Chile09-5645547

Por segundo año consecutivo la Escuela de Guías de la Patagonia, de la región de Aysén realiza un programa de formación de guías locales de la provincia de Ultima Esper-anza, de la región de Magallanes en habilidades, técnicas y destrezas relacionadas con el turismo aventura; denominado técnicas para el desar-rollo de actividades de turismo aventura dirigido a guias turísticos. El programa ha contado con el apoyo de programa territorial integrado turismo sustentable – corfo / sercotec / red proturismo / asociación de guías de ultima esperanzaEl curso de formación se realizó durante 25 días donde los 11 guías se formaron y recibi-eron retroalimentación en sus habilidades para desempeñarse ofreciendo un servicio de calidad, seguro y confiable en ambientes naturales. En el modulo de kayak hemos invitado a un miembro de la Armada de Chile, de la capitanía de puerto de Puerto Natales; para que aprendan técnicas y destrezas en el manejo de kayak de mar de esta manera entendiendo la actividad turística que en esta área se esta desarrollando fuertemente en la zona del Río Serrano.Dentro del programa se han cubierto técnicas y destrezas relacionadas con el trekking, mon-

tañismo, kayak de mar, cabalgatas y doma racio-nal de caballos. Dentro del programa de formación buscamos formar a personas para que sean capaces de ofrecer un servicio de calidad, con seguridad, informando adecuadamente y en forma entre-tenida a clientes que buscan una experiencia exitosa en la naturaleza. El Parque Nacional Torres del Paine fue nuestra sala de clases, por ello reforzamos fuertemente el programa de No Deje Rastro; educando a estos guías para con-vertirse en monitores del programa de NO DEJE RASTRO, el que busca educar en técnicas fáciles y simples para minimizar los impactos de los visitantes en las áreas silvestres protegidas.Nuestra metodología educativa se basa en ofrecer un programa que oriente a los guías en técnicas de comunicación y educación mediante la estimulación de los 5 sentidos (el oler, el de-gustar, el tacto, el escuchar y el ver). Buscamos que los guías potencien su autenticidad, de su cultura, costumbres y tradiciones, buscamos entregar herramientas para usar un estilo de liderazgo autentico que potencia a las personas, facilita el liderazgo y la toma de decisiones en circunstancias complejas. Basamos el programa en técnicas seguras para las personas, el medio

ambiente y el cuidado de los equipos.Dentro de nuestro programa buscamos apor-tar con nuevas formas de ir desarrollando y potenciando la actividad turística en ambientes Naturales. Las Cabalgatas son una actividad en crecimiento y por ello buscamos entregar también herramientas para aprender a domar caballos en forma racional; preparando caballos para realizar actividades ecuestres de calidad tanto para los visitantes como para los caballos.

DOMA RACIONAL

Desde hace unos cuantos años, amantes del ca-ballo, dispersos por el planeta, han comenzado a investigar sobre diferentes métodos y técnicas para conocer, acercarnos y domar al caballo sin necesidad de recurrir a la violencia; se han de-sarrollado sistemas de doma de potros, basados principalmente en la psicología y los distintos comportamientos del caballo: dichos métodos son los conocidos como “doma natural”, “doma racional”, “doma india”, entre otros.La Doma Racional o Natural, la debemos entender como un concepto amplio que nos obliga a realizar un esfuerzo intelectual para intentar comprender a los caballos, debemos ser nosotros los que nos adaptemos a sus pautas de comportamiento y a sus necesidades y no a la inversa como se pretende habitualmente.No debemos ver la Doma Natural como un sistema más o menos novedoso para domar caballos, quien se enfrenta a otros sistemas que podemos considerar más tradicionales. Ni mucho menos. La Doma Natural no es un siste-ma, pues cada domador tiene el suyo propio. La Doma Natural es una postura, si se quiere una filosofía sobre como queremos que sea nuestra relación con los caballos. Todos aspiramos a tener una buena relación con nuestros caballos, una relación basada en la confianza mutua en vez de en el miedo, que quieran estar junto a nosotros, que se les note alegres y relajados.La Doma Racional consiste en una serie de técnicas, la mayoría de ellas muy antiguas, que han sido recopiladas de distintas escuelas, de diversas culturas, de mucha gente conocedora

de la comunicación entre el hombre y el caballo, que han sabido entender que no es necesario utilizar métodos violentos para lograr que el caballo haga lo que queramos.Muchas de estas personas son personas de campo, de vida simple y honesta; y justamente por su condición y por el medio natural en el que se han criado y viven, tenían una sensi-bilidad que les permitía mantener canales de comunicación con los animales y que podían no tan solo entenderlos sino predecir sus conductas y reacciones.Esperamos que esto sea un aporte y contribuya a que en Magallanes se popularice esta técnica y que permita que las cabalgatas y actividades ecuestres (así como con otros animales), se realicen en un clima sano y sin violencia. Contribuyendo así a que vivamos mejor en este mundo.

Como escuela de guías de la patagonia estamos muy contentos y orgullosos de haber contri-buido y apoyado al desarrollo de este curso 2006; nos sentimos vinculados y parte de este proceso de mejorar la calidad y el servicio de la oferta turística del turismo de naturaleza en Magallanes. Estaremos atentos a poder con-tinuar compartiendo y combinando una oferta integrada de los territorios australes de Chile.

www.escueladeguias.cl

“Ser una institución reconocida como modelo en

la gestión educativa de profesionales que trabajan

en espacios naturales. Preparando personas capaces

de educar, guiar y orientar a otros en forma entretenida,

segura e informada en la naturaleza, así como ser

gestores de desarrollo local para un crecimiento

igualitario, sustentable y comunitario”.

Escuela de Guías de la Patagonia -Francisco Vio Giacaman


Raices PatagonicasRestaurant

O´Higgins 623 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone +56-61 410060

All you can eat...

A variety of...White MeatDark Meat

PastaShellfish

Salad BuffetDessert Buffet

Something new & comfortable in town for the entire family...

november 2006

17Whalesound by Trevor Clark

“This is the kind of place where those

nature films you see on television are made”,

one of my fellow travellers said to me as we

stood aboard the upper deck of the 15-metre long

vessel, Esturion. It was our first morning out at

Whalesound and we had not yet been particularly

successful at tracking down the normally abundant

humpback whales.

So what if we haven’t seen too much yet, ¨ he

continued. ¨Just being here is amazing.¨

He was right, I reflected. In fact, being at least an

eight to ten hour boat journey from Punta Arenas,

Chile, the nearest large centre of population, and

deep in the Straight of Magellan where the Atlantic

and Pacific Oceans intermingle, I couldn’t recall

ever being in a more wild or remote place.

Against a backdrop of verdant green, undulat-

ing mountains and a threatening sky wheeled

and soared speckled Chilean Skuas and majestic

black-browed Albatrosses. Near the boat in the

blue-green water an occasional Magellenic penguin

would surface and then flee in surprise from this

strange and noisy man-made creature. From the

fractured and erratic shoreline southern fur seals

occasionally swam out to investigate the Esturion,

following in our wake and frequently leaping clear

of the water as if to get a better angle of view. The

place was exploding with nature.

Most people, however, were here for one reason

only: the promise of seeing up close the undis-

puted sovereigns of this watery realm, the massive

humpback whales.

Up until six years ago no one had ever properly

established that these incredibly charismatic sea

mammals even frequented the area. The only indi-

cator up until then had been scattered records from

as early as the 16th Century, mostly

from whaling activity. Then came

along research scientist Juan Capella

and his associates, Jorge Gibbons and

Yerko Vilina, who used data from an

in-depth scientific survey conducted

throughout the months of June to

September, from 1997 to 2001,to help

establish that a large population of

humpback whales use the area as a

summer feeding and possibly nursing

ground.

The prolific numbers of humpbacks

recorded here, particularly around Isla

Carlos III, combined with the sheer amount of bio-

logical diversity created by the meeting of two very

distinct oceans, extreme weather conditions and

varied topography led to the creation of Chile’s first

marine protected area, the Marine Park Francisco

Coloane, named in honour of the now-deceased

novelist who drew on the Austral regions´ unique-

ness for inspiration.

The poor luck on our first outing had truly been a

surprise to both us and the crew, who insisted that

they had never been out and not seen a whale. The

solitary humpback we did encounter was elusive,

insisting on playing a game of cat-and-mouse with

the boat. As we cautiously approached this hump-

back it would surface two or three times, exhale

and inhale, and then deep dive, surfacing again

several minutes later but heading in the opposite

direction. According to Juan, who was on board

with us, humpbacks generally submerge for five

to ten minutes but can stay down for upwards of

twenty. This one he quickly identified as the ¨not so

friendly one¨, EM036. It did not want to play and

was putting its own diving capabilities to good use.

This starkly contrasted with our arrival at Whale-

sound the previous night when another humpback

had been lunging around less than 50 metres off-

shore and displacing an incredible volume of water

onto the rocky beach.

Research conducted by Juan has identified more

than 55 individual whales. He has achieved this

by photographing the underside of each whales´

distinctive ventral fluke – a kind of whale ´finger-

print´ - and dorsal fin. Genetic sampling from these

very same whales has indicated that many of them

undertake a winter migration as far north as Co-

lumbia, where Juan participates in another project

with Foundation Yubarta.

Throughout this great journey the whales encounter

many environmental hazards, mostly man-made,

including what Juan claims is the greatest threat to

the entire population – accidental entanglement in

massive industrial fishing nets. His concern for the

whales was palpable and certainly understandable

for he seemed to know these whales personally,

identifying them at great distances, knowing behav-

iour and characteristics specific to each, and giving

them names such as ´Webo´ and ´Sombrero´, all the

while keeping his eye out for any newcomers to the

area. His knowledge of the animals was impressive.

By our next trip out the whales had ceased toying

with us and began showing themselves in the num-

bers we had been expecting. It seemed we couldn’t

focus on more than one or two for more than five

minutes before another misty spray of whale’s

breath erupted somewhere else in the near-distance.

The most profound encounters, however, came

at seemingly the least expected times, like while

sitting and eating lunch at camp only to spot

through the window a blast of spray about 300

metres offshore. Within moments a large female

tail lobbed (slapping the flat of her tail against the

surface of the water) 20 – 30 times, repeatedly

rolled over, spouted and

finally raised a flipper

out of the water as if

to wave at us from her

watery abode. Seconds

later her calf attempted

to imitate. Then, being

awakened in the middle

of the night by the

sound of waves lapping

at the shore, only to

realize that they weren’t

waves at all, but the

rhythmic breathing of

one or two whales rest-

ing in the bay very near

the camp.

The Whalesound camp

is exactly how it should be – an eco-friendly col-

lection of geodesic white dome tents complete with

extremely comfortable beds and luxurious sleeping

bags, all resting on wooden platforms and intercon-

nected by a series of lumber gangplanks. This helps

to protect the delicate ecosystem of various trees,

including cipres and canelo, small plants, ferns

and fungus which surround the camp. All waste,

including human, is collected and ferried back to

the mainland - though thankfully on a separate boat

than the Esturion.

In the communal tent you can expect to be warmed

up after a day on the boat by a gently burning fire

and some exceptionally good cooking, potentially

prepared by Javier, the easy going scientist, come

entertainer, come chef. Definitely try one of his

pisco sours!

Areas for potential improvement certainly included

the boat. While it was large enough to

accommodate everyone it lacked seat-

ing, especially in places from where

you could see the horizon, an essential

element for some people who are not

used to long hours at sea. At the very

least some kind of handles or railing to

hold onto would have been appreciated

by several people on board. Aside from

Juan himself there was also a distinct

lack of any kind of interpretive infor-

mation about the region or its wildlife,

such as posters, on board.

But it is important to remember, too,

that when traveling to such isolated and remote re-

search projects as this, particularly those on a lim-

ited and limiting scientific budget, one can expect a

certain amount of discomfort. It’s all part of the fun

and experience and should also provide some kind

of insight into the kinds of conditions guys like

Juan have to deal with on a day-to-day basis. In his

own quiet and unassuming way he admitted to me

that despite the cost to paying tourists ¨the research

never has enough money.¨ Three hundred people

in the summer season would be optimal, he said.

At the moment they get about half that, mostly

Europeans and North Americans.

Our final morning arrived. I awoke early and

decided to head down to the communal tent where

I knew Javier would be preparing another great

breakfast. The boardwalk was wet from overnight

rain but the sky was mostly clear, thus revealing a

dusting of snow on the surrounding mountains. The

sun had only started to rise so as yet none of the

daily rainbows had made an appearance.

Inside the tent Javier handed me a more than

welcome steaming mug of coffee and we stood

looking out the windows. Suddenly, out of the

glassy calm water erupted a humpback, its entire

body nearly completely leaving the sea in three

successive breeches, each one ending in a cataclys-

mic explosion of foamy white water. She was so

close to shore we could make out the detail on the

underside of her body and flippers. Javier let out

a little cheer and I felt compelled to do the same.

This really was the kind of exotic place where

nature films are made. The only catch being it was

all the better in real life.

Whalesound can be contacted at www.whalesound.com

***Accommodation Available***

Horse riding trips from 2 hours up to 10 days

Reservations (+56 61)[email protected]

Or ask at your hotel or travel agent for details

* Two hour ride for 22.000clp *


18

Cave Paintings near Puerto NatalesETNO Natural Park The new Patagonian Etnonatural Park recently opened to the public. Its main attraction is the sculp-tural representation of the indigenous Magellan people set against beautiful natural scenes. The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45 minutes and consists of nine displays in which you can see depictions of the first inhabitants of these lands: The Kaweskar, Yamanas, Aonikenk and Selknam. In additon, there is a small cave inside the park, which was once used as a refuge by hunters. On its walls you can see cave paintings of simple shapes but with great symbolic meaning and power. Many of these are geometrical outlines, animal tracks, human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animal figures. Along the path, you can feel the secrets of the spirits in the air, and among the ancient trees of the wooded areas images of the steppe hunters of Tierra del Fuego come to mind, nomadic people and the austral rivers. The Etnonatural Park is outside of Puerto Natales near the Milodon cave at Km 23. The park is open everyday during the week and costs $3.000 per person.

Phone / Fax 56•61•415285

Handmade ChocolateGourmet EspressoReal Hot Chocolate

Barros Arana 233, Puerto NatalesPatagonia, Chile

Mmmm...

Tips... How much water should I drink?

While trekking or climbing the idea is to drink about 3 to 4 quarts a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot dessert you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp would require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output. Clear and copious is what you are looking for. Dark yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow - that´s different. If you are feeling thirsty, then you are already down up to a liter of water and may have lost up to 20 percent or your endurance. A headache and/or cramping are also a signs of dehydration. Take the time to drink, don´t be pressured by the clock or the teams agenda. A clever team will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time, then to guzzle down a quart in one sitting. This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to be continually drinking all day. In Torres del Paine, we have one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water out of the fresh streams and creeks along its trails, although a good water filtration system is always a good idea will trekking abroad.

Pisco Sour

Each time you visit a different country, one question always comes to mind: “What’s the food like there?”In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you´re lucky enough, you´ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. Of course, you´ll find these dishes in non-traditional restaurants or at family houses or hostels. You´ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture, which means they are very keen on making drinks based on pisco.

Pisco Sour3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes.

Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add icing sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it is almost a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so go for it and enjoy!

On a bike?In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic, and your camera!

If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedaling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “el camino a Dumestre”). You will reach the dirt road, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless they seem by the sea. The farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be. You’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Península.

ÑANDÚHand Crafts

Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413306Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122

Books & MapsPostcards & Stamps

Souvenirs

Puerto NatalesDay HikeWaiting for a bus to Calafate? Got a few hours to kill before heading to Punta Arenas? If you are looking for a way to spend a nice half day in Natales, go on a two hour hike up Cerro Dorotea. Grab a local taxi and ask them to take you to Mirador Dorotea. It’s a fifteen minute taxi ride and you’ll find yourself on the southern side of Dorotea. Pay the woman about 3000 pesos to cross her property and head off down the trail. The trail is really well-marked and takes you through the forest and up to the top of the east-facing cliffs that overlook Puerto Natales. From the view point you get a great view of Natales and Seno Ultima Esparanza. On a clear day, the view of the Paine Massif is stunning.After exploring the ridgeline, head down to the lunch that has been prepared for you by the lady of the house. Definately on the top of the list of activities for Puerto Natales. You should be able to swing a deal for about 5000 pesos for the taxi to drop you off and pick you up again a few hours later.

Secret Reciepe

19

Introducing the fastest way to reach Torres del Paine National Park:The Punta Arenas / Puerto Natales 1 hour flight!

Patagonia is a once in a lifetime experience. There is too much to see and as usual, limited time. Wherever a flight may save you precious time, NanduAir will offer air taxi services giving you more time at your destination, by using local airplanes and pilots with extensive flying experience in the area.

November 2006

Puerto Natales ...for a day or a lifetime.

IL. MUNICIPALIDAD DE PTO. NATALES • Eberhard 457 • Fono (56-61) 411129 • [email protected] • Puerto Natales- Patagonia

Hostal

Isla MorenaTwin Rooms

Double RoomsLibrary

RestaurantTomás Rogers 38 - Puerto Natales, Chile - (56-61) 411162

www.chileaustral.com [email protected]

Most of us when planning our trip to Patagonia, are concerned about the high amounts of UV-B radiation. It’s true that the ozone layer is getting thinner and thinner every year because the impact that human activities produce in the modern cycle of life.Here in Patagonia, you have to take care of your skin and eyes. As we are not located in the Equator, the sunrays reach the earth

in an angular way, not vertically. This means that the radiation stays longer in the atmosphere and comes to you from a lower point of the horizon. Consequently, the amount of UV-B radiation that penetrates this protecting layer is more important than the Dobson units, which measures the thickness of the ozone layer. The famous ´hole in the ozone´ is located mostly above Antartica but overlaps into Patagonia during part of the year. Protecting your skin and eyes is something to take seriously while in southern Chle. This radiation is higher in Magallanes during spring, but it does not reach the levels to which people from Santiago are exposed during summer. The radiation rate registered in Santiago during summer is equal to 9 microwatts per cm². As for the situation of Punta Arenas, the radiation rate in winter is equal to 8 microwatts per cm², in summer to 5.7 microwatts per cm², in spring it reaches 3.2 microwatts per cm², but it may vary from day to day, reaching summer highest levels. When this happens, people from Magallanes are put on the red alert, as during the past ten years, there had not been such unexpected variations. It is advisable to use, (factor 15) sun creams, in great quantities on the face and neck. If you use it in low quantities, for instance a half spoon dose, it would be equivalent to use a (factor 4) sun cream. So now, buy a good sun protector and go out there to enjoy the marvelous views that nature offers only in Patagonia.

Ozone facts for Chile by Herman Klassen

One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed)Round trip ticket $17.000 per person

Note: Trips at 09.30 am /10:00 am, no trip on 25/12/2006 and 1/01/2007Los arrieros 1517. Puerto Natales. Phone 61-411380. Mail: [email protected]

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS

Oct 1 to 15, 2006 12:00pm 12:30pmOctober 16 to 31, 2006 12:00pm 12:30pm 18:00pm 18:30pm November 1 to March 15, 2007 09:30am 10:30am 12:00pm 12:30pm 18:00pm 18:30pmMarch 16 to 31, 2006 12:00pm 12:30pm 18:00pm 18:30pm April 2007 12:00pm 12:30pm

TEMPORADA 2006-2007- Regular Schedule

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...

Pudeto Pehoe


20

Patagonia.It´s home.Hire local.

Asociacion Gremial Guias Turismo Ultima Esperanza - For further information contact us at [email protected] Guide Association

Fifteen years ago Torres del Paine and Puerto Natales were practically unheard of, other then by a few extreme travelers and scientists. Now, 15 years later, Patagonia and Torres del Paine has shown itself as one of the last truly pristine places on earth. Nobody knows this better then the people who live and work here. Southern Chile has now found itself to be one of the largest international destinations in the world. History has repeatedly shown us the inherent problems with communities turning over their resources and not benefiting from them locally. When you hire locally, you help Patagonia sustain itself for generations to come. The money you spend stays in Patagonia, which in return is used to better the local environment, taxed locally and recycles back into the community. The Ultima Esperanza Guide Association is dedicated to this cause. By hiring a UEGA recog-nized operator or guide you can be certain that you have access to local professionals as well as help an important local issue.

As you pass from street to street, be it in Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas, navigating with your trusty street-map, do you ever wonder why most of the street names are surnames and who these people actually are? Well, names of past Chilean Presidents have provided some, but as well as these guys they also honour people and places with great significance in their historic development. Here are a few principal street names from Puerto Natales. . .

LADRILLEROS Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor who in 1557 was sent by the Spanish government to find a sea exit from the Magellan Straits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food, energy and the loss of many men he decided that the voyage into the body of water that surrounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope in reaching their goal; hence the name Ultima Esperanza (Last Hope). Incidentally the Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years!

O´HIGGINS The Liberator Bernardo O´Higgins together with Jose de San Martin crossed from Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army and finally drove out the Spanish. He restored

Chile´s independence and became Chile´s first President in 1818.BLANCO ENCALADA The first Commander of the Chilean Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land of his Chilean mother as his home. A great political figure who was President of the Republic for a mere two months in 1826.

BULNES Manuel Bulnes, His military victory over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in 1839, secured his personal victory of becoming President of the Republic (1841-1851).

ARTURO PRATT A valiant naval captain who died at the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (THE HUASCAR), accompanied by only one sergeant.

ESMERALDA The name of Capt Arturo Pratt´s ship in the Battle of Iquique.

TOMAS ROGERS Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Captain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glaciar. On arrival he named it Francisco Gomaz in honour of the expedition patron.

Many years later the Argentineans renamed it in honour of Perito Francisco P. Moreno, an Argentine hydrographer.

BAQUEDANO General Manuel Baquedano, defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles (March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and later captured Lima (Jan 1881).

CHORRILLOS The site of the first battle in the wave to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881).

BALMACEDA José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal anticlerical group prevented Argentina entering the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide reform program which led to civil war. He later fled to Argentina where he committed suicide.

EBERHARD Captain Hermann Eberhard was an explorer and first settler of the Province of Ultima Esperanza. He named the hill that overlooks Puerto Natales after his first daughter, DOROTEA; And from his second daughter Sofia, he named Lago SOFIA. In 1892 was it was actually one of his workers who discovered the famous Milodon Cave, where remains of prehistoric animals were found including

saber-toothed tigres, camels, deer and of course the Milodon. Today the Eberhard family still live on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo.

KRUGER Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area in the name of Argentina. Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentineans left without fuss. Due to this event the Chilean government populated Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future attempts by the Argentine navy.

PILOTO PARDO Captain Luis Pardo was a sailor who risked his life, and those of his men to rescue the 22 castaways from the ENDURANCE (Shackleton Expedition 1915-16). His tugboat “The Yelcho”, had no double hull, no heating, no electric light and no radio. Despite the courageous acts of this man and his crew, Shackleton mentioned Pardo´s name only once in his 386 page book, in the preface!

PEDRO MONTT Son of the President Manuel Montt Towers. He himself became President of zthe Republic between 1906-1910.

Road scholar by Thomas S Daly

Documents

Black Sheep Nov 06