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48 DOCKWALK ≈ AUGUST 2007
YOU WOULD THINK that with the ever-increasing number of yachts
being launched, � nding remote cruising grounds that o� er the
right mix of adventure, comfort and interest would be more and more
di� cult. Many yacht owners want to experience a true sense of
cruising without relying on the availabil-ity of dockage. At the
same time, they don’t wish to � nd themselves in an anchorage
surrounded by the same bunch of boats that were in their vicinity
the previous evening and the night before that. � e South Paci� c
and the out islands of the Caribbean and Bahamas are popular for
this reason.
� ere is, however, a cruising area that o� ers a good blend of
inter-esting, scenic cruising coupled with a serenity only found in
places not frequented by the usual suspects. What’s more, this
cruising ground is not thousands of miles from the Mediterranean
and the passage there is enjoyable. � e region in question is the
Black Sea.
� e Black Sea is bordered by Ukraine to the north, Romania and
Bulgaria to the west, Russia and Georgia to the east and Turkey to
the south. It is only accessible through the Bosphorus Straits,
which separate the European and Asian sides of Istanbul. � e Black
Sea’s main area of interest is arguably the Crimean Peninsula,
which juts into the sea from the north. Now the territory of
Ukraine but for-merly a part of the Soviet Empire, the Crimean
Peninsula has occu-pied a place of historical signi� cance for
hundreds of years. Cruising this area o� ers many of the
ingredients that make for a successful trip with charter guests or
owners alike: short passages between stopovers, attractive
coastline and sheltered harbors. What it doesn’t yet o� er are the
facilities and yacht-friendly marinas of more established cruis-ing
grounds. Crew are sure to earn their money here as the name of the
game is careful planning before you go – � ne foods and spares are
luxury items best brought with you. It’s possible to get anything
in Ukraine, but the Crimea is a long way from the country’s major
cities – logistics and language barriers conspire against you, so
avoid the process if possible. Although you can, of course, � nd
the very best vodka in Ukraine.
� e Black Sea is a very seasonal place. Its latitude means every
sea-son outside of the height of summer can be cold and subject to
strong winds and rough weather. July and August are the pick of the
season, o� ering the most stable, comfortable conditions.
Tired of being mobbed in the Mediterranean? There’s a
seldom-cruised area right next door that’s steeped in history and
high in charm.
BY MICHAEL FRENCH, PHOTOS BY CLAIRE FRENCH
Tired of being mobbed in the Mediterranean? There’s a
seldom-cruised area right next door that’s Tired of being mobbed in
the Mediterranean? There’s a seldom-cruised area right next door
that’s Tired of being mobbed in the Mediterranean? There’s a
seldom-cruised area right next door that’s Tired of being mobbed in
the Mediterranean? There’s a seldom-cruised area right next door
that’s
FAR MADDING CROWDSTired of being mobbed in the Mediterranean?
There’s a seldom-cruised area right next door that’s Tired of being
mobbed in the Mediterranean? There’s a seldom-cruised area right
next door that’s Tired of being mobbed in the Mediterranean?
There’s a seldom-cruised area right next door that’s
MADDING CROWDSfromthe
UKRAINE – OdessaFounded in 1794, the famous city of Odessa is
populated by nearly 1.5 million people. During the cold war, Odessa
was the summer playground of the Soviet Union’s elite. Today it is
Ukraine’s sec-ond largest city a� er the capital of Kiev and is a
viable starting o� point for a cruise around the Crimea. � e city
itself has a perfectly placed marina at the old cruise passenger
terminal, just across from Primorsky Boulevard, opposite the foot
of the infamous Potamkin steps. � is was the setting of the
people’s uprisings against the Tsarist regime, which helped to
catalyze the Russian revolution. � e steps themselves use some
visual trickery in order to increase their look of grandeur. In
fact, the top of the steps is much narrower than the bot-tom, which
makes the sides seem parallel and the steps higher than they really
are.
Odessa manages to juxtapose indulgent wealth and strong cultural
heritage with abject poverty and provides the visitor with a true
taste of its former glory while not hiding the hardship of more
recent times. A host of � ne museums and splendid architecture is
found here, nota-bly the spectacular opera house from 1887, which
is built in Viennese Baroque style. � e opera house is a monument
to Odessa’s commit-ment to the arts and recently was fully
refurbished to its original grandeur.
Any visit to Odessa is worthy of a couple days. � ere is plenty
to see, do and eat. � e t r a n s p o r t a t i o n infrastructure
is reasonable, with a good airport that connects to Kiev. Odessa
also has an abundance of fresh produce.
Baroque style. � e opera house is a monument to Odessa’s
commit-ment to the arts and recently was fully refurbished to its
original
Any visit to Odessa is worthy of a couple days. � ere is plenty
to see, do and eat. � e t r a n s p o r t a t i o n infrastructure
is reasonable, with a good airport that connects to Kiev. Odessa
also has an abundance of fresh
Odessa’s Opera House
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DOCKWALK ≈ AUGUST 2007 49
CRIMEA� e Crimea peninsula is at least 200 miles from Odessa and
the charted passage calls for following de-mined shipping routes
marked on the charts. � e mines were probably laid as defenses at
the time of the Crimean War, but the Cold War is sure to have
justi� ed their continued use. Several local people suggested that
there were no mines “these days,” but the gamble probably isn’t
worth it.
Coastal Ukraine is still obsessed with security, a throwback to
Soviet times, so ensure that you comply with rules and regulations
regarding clearing in and out of ports and clarifying your voyage
plans. Expect to present papers to o� cials at their request.
Failure to do so could mean a visit from a security o� cer who is
likely to look like an adolescent Boy Scout, but is also likely to
act as though he (and it’s always a he) is personally avenging
McCarthy’s punishment of communism.
� ese Crimean ports and several anchorages along the way provide
a colorful historical perspective of the region. Once the veneer of
the relatively recent Soviet history is stripped away, it is
possible � nd a chronology of European history in the ruins of
ancient civilizations. � e area’s present demographic makeup is
unique and descendants of many di� erent cultures can be found if
you look hard enough.
Sevastopol � e Crimean coast has occupied a signi� cant part of
pre- and post-Soviet military history. In 1944, Sevastopol survived
a 250-day siege
by the Axis forces and was awarded the honor of “Hero City”
shortly a� er. It was home to the Russian “Black Sea Fleet” and
rem-nants remain to this day, which, although they’ve clearly seen
better days and could do with a lick of paint, still make a
dra-matic sight. Some of the world’s for-merly most pow-erful
warships are
still moored here and though they brim with weapons and
technology, they are crewed by sailors who wander the decks in � ip
� ops and hang their washing on the guardrails, reminding us that
the � eet has lost some of its potency.
Sevastopol was, until the late 1980s, a closed city, which meant
that no one, but no one, was allowed to enter the city unless on o�
cial busi-ness. In Sevastopol, this meant military or political
business.
Today, Sevastopol has become a seaside resort of sorts for
people of the surrounding areas and uses its military heritage to
attract visitors. � e stern-to berths assigned to yachts o� en sit
among the warships and submarines, making for an unusual and
interesting stopover. Booking a berth ahead of time is essential.
Of particular interest is the dolphin training facility, still in
operation, where the Russian Navy trained dol-phins for underwater
military missions.
Balaclava� e small, well protected inlet of Balaclava is perhaps
most famous for the battle to which it lends its name, where the
“Charge of the Light Brigade” took place. A visit to the site is
easy to arrange and is a rather
moving experience. Balaclava has a once-secret submarine pen cut
into the solid rock of the cli� s on the town’s western side. � is
facility allowed submarines to enter, re-arm and return to sea
without being detected by Western forces. Although it has long
since been stripped of its equipment by disgruntled, unpaid workers
following the collapse of the Soviet Union, it’s still quite a
remarkable place.
Balaclava is a picturesque town with a narrow entrance that’s
di� cult to see from seaward. It is surrounded by high cli� s that
make for a chal-lenging walk that rewards hikers with a fantastic
view of the harbor.
� ere are two marinas that can cater to smaller yachts and
enough walls on either side of the harbor to make a stern-to
mooring. � e har-bor authorities are very helpful here compared to
most in Ukraine.
YaltaYalta’s existence was � rst recorded in the 12th century
when it was named by Greek sailors searching for protection from
the elements. � ey gave it the name Yalos, meaning safe haven. It
was a favorite with the Russian aristocracy and intelligentsia for
many years – Tol-stoy and Chekhov are two of its most notable
visitors. More recently, it became the “o� cial” resort for Soviet
workers by Lenin decree and many sanatoria were established to
provide respite for the masses from the arduous work of the hammer
and sickle. Yalta remains the largest resort on the Crimean
Peninsula and tourists from Russia and Ukraine are returning en
masse. It is famous for its seafront promenade where thousands walk
every summer evening.
Although it would be a di� cult harbor to miss, most yachts
require an o� cial pilot to guide them to a berth alongside or
stern-to the wall.
It is worth traveling outside Yalta to the Swallow’s Nest, once
a castle in the neo-gothic style, now a restaurant. It is perched
on high cli� s overlooking the sea and provides a spectacular
view.
Soviet military history. In 1944, Sevastopol survived a 250-day
siege by the Axis forces and was awarded the honor of “Hero City”
shortly a� er. It was home to the Russian “Black Sea Fleet” and
rem-nants remain to this day, which, although they’ve clearly seen
better days and could do with a lick of paint, still make a
dra-matic sight. Some of the world’s for-merly most pow-erful
warships are
still moored here and though they brim with weapons and
technology, they are crewed by sailors who wander the decks in � ip
� ops and hang
moving experience. Balaclava has a once-secret submarine pen cut
into the solid rock of the cli� s on the town’s western side. � is
facility
DOCKWALK ≈ AUGUST 2007 49
overlooking the sea and provides a spectacular view.
Remnants of the once-mighty Soviet Black Sea Fleet
The Free Market in Yalta
Local Ukrainian fishermen in front of the entrance to the secret
submarine pen in Balaclava
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50 DOCKWALK ≈ AUGUST 2007
SudakSudak is a small resort town most famous for its Genoese
fortress – arguably the best example on the Black Sea coast – that
overlooks the town. � e fortress makes for an interesting hiking
destination and the anchorage provides a comfortable stop in good
holding. � e town’s beaches are usually crowded to the point where
people actually settle for standing room on the shoreline.
FeodosiaFeodosia has a checkered past. Once a slave trading town
and docu-mented to be the point of entry of the Black Death
pandemic in the 14th century, the town is more recently known for
its curative attri-butes. It has several mineral spas and mud baths
that promise to cure many ills. � e port has plenty of commercial
dockage space and yachts have to moor here. � e many beaches bring
a carnival atmosphere to the town in the summer.
THE DANUBE DELTA, ROMANIA & BULGARIAOver to the west and
south of Odessa are Romania and Bulgaria, which o� er another
perspective for a Black Sea cruise.
For a very unusual trip, it is possible to enter the Danube
River from the Ukraine and make a short passage around the Danube
Delta. � e � rst and last port of Ukraine is Izmail, a riverside
town that’s famous for its nearby fortress. When the rare yacht
visits, someone almost certainly will emerge from the woodwork and
invite guests for a tour of their town.
Farther into the delta, the scenery is � at and green, a most
unusual sight from a yacht’s bridge. Change pilots at the Romanian
border and head for Tulcea, an industrial town that is clearly past
– or yet to enjoy – its heyday. � e town, said to be one of the
poorest in Romania, boasts a large, communist-era aluminum works,
but the most obvious industrial interest is ship building. Ships
are built in Tulcea and then towed elsewhere to have their engines
� tted.
Mooring in Tulcea is almost comical – there are berths for very
small boats, but larger vessels have to lie alongside other river
boats or houseboats. � e actual process of getting alongside can be
quite inter-esting as the mooring area is in the bight of a river
bend and the eddies
and � ows of the river do not conform to the typical scienti� c
expla-nation of how water moves. Keep fenders ready and have your
wits about you here.
� e small Romanian town of Sulina lies at the mouth of the exit
to the Black Sea. � ere is little here save for a stopping point to
let o� the Danube pilot and buy some watermelons, which are
plentiful. Mooring is alongside the walls on either side of the
linear develop-ment at the river edge and most yachts will
instantly become the talk of the town.
� ere are several small coastal towns on the way south but two
main ports:
ConstantaSouth of the Danube and Sulina, Constanta is a large,
uniquely Romanian city with a well organized port and plenty of
places to dock. � e city o� ers a diverse cultural insight into the
past, occupied by at least six di� erent ethnic groups who arrived
at various points in history. It is the main seaport of Romania and
home to the Romanian Black Sea Fleet.
Varna� e largest Bulgarian city on the Black Sea coast and home
to the Bulgarian Navy, Varna is a vibrant and thriving city. Its
good sum-mer weather and low cost of living is attracting an in� ux
of Europe-ans who are buying cheap land and properties. Varna is
accustomed to tourists so the service sector is � rst class. Great
seafood is avail-able on the seafront and the atmosphere is very
welcoming. Its infor-mality might be more suited for crew than
guests, making it a good stopover a� er dropping o� the guests
before the trip back through Turkey to the Med.
� e Black Sea is not for everyone. � e glamour departed with the
Tsarist aristocracy and marinas have not been developed to any
great extent. However, there is an unmistakable charm and a
friendly welcome for the visitor. � e coastline is scenic, the
history is fasci-nating and adventure seekers will � nd the
experience unique. In short, the Black Sea provides a refreshing
change from the typical yachting destination. ✯
50 DOCKWALK ≈ AUGUST 2007
FAR from the MADDING CROWDS
Sevastopol
ROMANIAUKRAINE
SevastopolSevastopolSevastopolSevastopolSevastopol
CRIMEA
BULGARIA
SevastopolSevastopolSevastopolSevastopolSevastopolSevastopolSevastopolSevastopol
DANUBEDELTA
BalaclavaSudak
Feodosia
Yalta
Odessa
Constanta
Varna
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DW_Aug07_P48DW_Aug07_P49DW_Aug07_P50
