Birds Section 5 Bird Houses

8/22/2019 Birds Section 5 Bird Houses

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destroyed, and growth along fences removed. Any man-made devices that will help to replace the birds' dwindlingsupply of natural shelter will be a distinct benefit to them.Successful bird attraction requires an adequate number ofthe right kind of birdhouses. Birdhouses must be built forspeciflc types of birds, not just for birds in general, andthey must be correctly located and maintained. The con-struction of birdhouses offers a dual pleasure: flrst, theenjoyment of making them; second, the adventure of attract-ing and sheltering birds with them.

know the birds you want to attractIt is common knowledge that wrens will build a nest inalmost any type of shelter-an old tin can, a shoe, or aflowerpot. This fact has led many people to believe that allbirds are no more selective in their choice of a shelter. Thisimpression is far from the truth. Birds as a rule are veryparticular about where their nests are buitt and how theyare made. For this reason you must plan a house for aspeciflc bird, making sure that it is the correct size, hasthe proper opening, and is placed at a predetermined heightabove the ground. The birdhouses described in this bookfollow these specifi.cations, and in building them you canbe assured that they meet the needs of the birds for whichthey are intended.

two types of birdsThe birds that the amateur bird fancier will want to attractto his birdhouse can be divided into two groups: the treedwellers and the cavity dwellers. Tree dwellers will not livein a house or any kind of cavity. For example, the BaltimoreOrio1e will never build a nest in a man-made or a nature-made box. The oriole always builds its own graceful nestout of hair and other weaving materials, suspending it frombranches, such as those of the elm tree. On the other hand,woodpeckers always build their nests in the hollow of treesor in other cavities.A report of the United States Fish and Wildlife Servicestates that there are more than 50 species of birds that willoccupy man-made houses. There should be little difficulty,16


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nesting materials box

Sides:Bottom:Back:Top:Dowels:Hinge(withscrews):

Very early in spring, perhaps right after the snow leaves,it is a good time to provide nesting materials for the birds.Here is a neat, handy box that stores the materials in oneplace, keeps them dry and ready for the birds to use, andwhen the nesting season is over, the box can be used as asuet feeder.The construction of this neat, handy box is simple. Nailtogether the stock for the two sides so that these two piecescan be cut in one operation. Drill the tA-inch holes for thedowels, making one right-hand and one left-hand. Cut allthe other pieces. Nail the back to the bottom, and then nailon the sides after the dowels are inserted. Put brads throughthe dowels. Then fit the top or lid and attach it with a 1 by 1inch hinge cut in half.Give the box a coat of weatherproof stain or paint if youwant to.

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Gommercial birdhousesSome excellent birdhouses made by reputable fi.rms are onthe market. You will flnd the manufacturers listed in thebetter periodicals, such as the Audubon Magazine. Whilethey will certainly meet the needs of the bird fancier, themanual training student and homecrafter can make housesthat are just as good and cost a tot less. The houses shownon the following pages can be made by anyone. Other bird-houses are also sold that simply do not come up to basicrequirements. Painted in bright colors to catch the cus-tomer's eye, they frequently are found on the shelves ofroadside stands and novelty shops. As a rule they are notthe right dimensions, have the wrong-size openings, aremade of poor materials, and are constructed unsatisfac-torily. They are designed for decoration rather than forbird attraction. This word of warning should be enough tosteer you clear of them.

some practical building hintsHere are some suggestions for making any type of bird-houses. First, design it for the bird it is to shelter. Try toduplicate as closely as possible the natural shelter of thebird. A woodpecker, for example, will be more at home in ahouse covered with bark than one painted green. Second,construct your birdhouses with care, taking special painsto produce accurate, good fitting joints. Third, make thehouse pleasing in appearance but do not make a gardenornament out of it. You may like fancy designs and brightcolors, but birds don't.The houses on the following pages incorporate almost allof the following suggestions. There will be some variationsin the specifications for a particular birdhouse, such as theuse of tin or of rooflng paper for covering the roof joint.Such variations can be supplied to any of the designs. Useyour own imagination to make changes as long as you d.onot depart from the basic speciflcations and size. fn mostinstances, the houses may be altered to accommodate otherbirds by changing the size of the opening and making thehouse deeper or shallower according to speciflcations forthe species.Lzo


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books advise that the rough surfaces be located on the out-side for rustic appearance. This suggestion is well intendedbut impractical. Lumber that is rough on both sides willprovide both a foothold for the birds on the inside and arustic appearance on the outside.6. Provide ventilation. If a small house, poorly ventilated,is located in the sun and occupied by four or flve baby birds,it can become so hot they will suffocate. You can provideadequate circulation by having vent holes at the top of thehouse below the extended roof boards. In some cases thesidepieces can be cut an eighth of an inch short so thatthere will be a vent along the upper side of the house.7. Be sure that the house drains. If the bottom of the houseis "glove-tight," any rain that seeps in or is driven in dur-ing a storm may accumulate and cause baby birds to drown.Drain holes in the bottom will prevent the house from flood-ing. All the houses in this book have swing-out bottomsfor easy cleaning and are loosely fitted so that moisture can-not collect.8. Have a tight roof. Generally, when the boards have beenaccurately cut and fi.tted, the roof will be waterproof. Asan added precaution you can nail a tin strip over the ridgeor cover it with roofi.ng paper.9. Protect the opening. See to it that the roof boards extendwell over the front or opening side of the house. This over-hang prevents rain from being blown into the house.10. Be sure the house is easy to clean. In the houses shownthere is a pivot screw at each side of the bottom toward therear. Another screw holds the bottom at the front of thehouse. When the front screw is rernoved, the bottomswings out so that the entire inside may be cleaned. Thisis a simple way to make a house easy to clean without theuse of hinges and other unnecessary hardware. The housesshould be cleaned each year, late .in fall or very earlyspring, to remove the old nest and any bugs or debris fromthe previous season. Do not wash out the house with soapand water unless you are positive that lice are present.If you like, you can put a very little, clean, new excelsiorin the bottom of the house as a welcome for the new birds.11. Give the house a suitable flnish. Birdhouses can bepainted and stained. A finish that will protect them againstthe weather may be preferred. However, select colors thatare dull and drab; do not look for the brightest orange,22


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Dimensions of Birdhouses and Height TheyShould Be Placed Above the Ground

BirdInside Depthof ofHouse House

Size of Entrance HeightEntrance Above AboveFloor Ground

Bewick's'WrenCarolina'WrenChickadeeDowny

4x44x4Woodpecker 4x 4House Wren 4x 4Nuthatch 4x 4Titmouse 4 x 4

Bluebird 5 x 5TreoSwallow 5x 5Violet-GreenSwallow 5 x 5CrestedFlycatcher 6 x 6Golden-FrontedWoodpecker 6 x 6HairyWoodpeckerHouse FinchPurpleMartinR,edheadedWoodpeckerSaw-WhetOwlStarlingFlickerScreech OwISparrowHawkBarn OwlWood DuckSI{ELF NESTSBarn SwallowPhoebeFobinSongSparrow

6x 66x 66x 66x 66x 66x 67x 78x I

6to 88to108to106to 88to108to108o6

8to1012 to 1512 to 15

tt6

12 to 1510 to 1216 to 1816 to 1812 to 15

8x 8 12to1510x18 15to18IOYB xlOYz 246x 6 66x 6 66x 8 86x 6 6

Dimensions in Inches4x 4 6to 8 1

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1to 61to 66to 86to 81to 66to I6to 861to 51to 56to 89to129to124I

9to128to10

14 to 1614 to 169to129to124

20

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L2 to 206to155to10

10 to 1510 to 158to20

12 to 20LZ to 208to12

15 to 2012 to 2012 to 2010 to 256to20

10 to 3010 to 3012 to 1810 to 258to128to126to151to 3

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Do not try to take boxes aPartby hitting the sides with a ham-mer-the wood will sPlit and beuset ess.

Note the correct way: place ablock on the side so that blowsof the hammer loosen the entireside without splitting.

\A few suggestions are shown here for taking the boxesapart. Never hit the side of thin boxes, or fruit boxes, witha hammer. Nine times out of ten you will split the wood.Instead, select a heavy wood block as long as the boardsare wide. When this block is struck with the hammer, theentire end of the board is loosened. You can also take boxesapart by sawing off the board near the end. The small endsremaining are removed and the nails withdrawn easily.In studying the plans for the house you are going to build,look for parts that have the same dimensions, such as thefront and back. Nail together the two pieces of stock forsuch parts, mark one of them, and cut out both at the sametime. This not only saves time but also insures cutting thepieces to the same size. They can be cut by hand with across-cut saw or with a power jig saw. In drilling the en-trance hole, use an expansive bit and set it accurately. Toprevent splintering the wood on the far side, clamp thestock in the bench vise, using a back-up block as shown onpagel?7. The bit will enter the second block, cut a cleansharp hole in the front of the house, and there will be noragged edge.Vent holes are usually made with a l/+-inc}n drill. A drillpress or ordinary portable drill can be used instead of ahand drill. As a rule, the grain of the front and back pieces

To make duplicate pieces, brad them together and saw both atthe same time.

Saw off the sides of the box nextto the nails. This method insuresgood pieces of wood withoutsplits or hammer marks.


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close to serve as a perch. If possible, mount the birdhouseon a metal pole, preferably a 1-inch or 17q-inch pipe. Setthe pipe in the ground in either a rock-lined hole or inconcrete.Shown here are four practical, simple ways of mountinga typical birdhouse. If the house is to be suspended, use aneye bolt that extends through the roof and hang it by along wire to provide protection from cats. If the houseis mounted on pipe, screur a pipe flange the size of the pipeto the bottom of the house. For a flat mounting method,screw a strip to the back of the house, or drill a hole throughthe back opposite the front opening, and insert a long screwthrough the back.

HANGINGEYE POSTBOTTOM

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BEND UP ANDFiT TO POSTNAIL HOLE S

I,/2"LAP AND ISOLDER ---1 FOR T'BOLT ON

Shown and detailed is a typical installation. For mountingon pipe, the opening in the center must be smaller. To getan accurate fi.t, make a template out of paper or cardboardand then transfer it to the metal. Solder the ends of themetal together to avoid any ridges that would provide afoothold for squirrels.

tree guardWhen hanging feeders or houses on tree branches, placea piece of split rubber garden house about the branch toprevent injury to the bark.

teeter-totter squirrel guardThe principle of this effective squirrel guard is that it"floats" on three evenly spaced supports. If a squirrel getson the edge, the guard tips and he finds himself back onthe ground! The tin must be lightweight-if it is too heavy,a squirrel can get onto it, for a moment, which is just longenough for it to jump to the feeder above. If the guard islight he cannot get a foothold. The diameter of the guardshould be at least 20 inches. The hole in the center of the30


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a house for your bluebird laneRecent studies and counts by the National Audubon Societyand the U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service show that there isa marked decrease in the bluebird population. Bluebirdsmay even be faced with extinction if nothing is done tohelp this beneflcial and beautiful species.The reasons for the decline of this species are many. First,our effort to "clean up" woods, fence rows, and fields haveled to a reduction in nesting facilities. Hollow trees arecut down and old cedar fence posts are replaced by metalposts. These old posts and trees also are a source of foodand as they are destroyed food is also destroyed. An addi-tional }razard to all bird life is the ever-increasing use ofsprays for insect control.To help restore the bluebird population, you can build adozen or so houses of the type shown here. Use any sort ofwood available. Stain the houses a dark green or brown ifyou want. Then select a "route" or lane and install them.A fence row is an ideal location. Or, if you can, set them upalong the edge of a woods with open flelds on one side.Mount them about 5 feet off the ground. Do not place themnear barns or dwellings. Since each bird has a definiteterritory, place the houses about 500 yards apart.Visit your "lane" from time to time and see how your ten-ants are getting along. You are sure to flnd families inseveral of them. If you do not succeed the first year, don'tgive up-they will be there the following year. At the endof the season clean out the houses and have them readyfor spring. It will be a lot of fun.

BoriAtL S'IOCK 3/4"

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19/79

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ced ar-log wren houseFor the cedar-log wren house, use a piece of green cedarpost that does not have a tendency to check or crack whendrying. To form t}ne 9Vz-inch nest, flrst drill a series ofholes around the outside; then drill out the rest of the woodthe same way. cut the slant at the top and drill the entrancehole as well as the hole for the r/+-indn dowel perch. cut theroof and nail it in place.The wren house can be left natural and the roof stainedbrown or green. Mount the house through the hole in theback of the house opposite the front opening.

billCedar logfor the body:Roof:Dowelfor perch:

of materials1- 5-in. dia. x7t/z in.1-/zx6x7in.l-Ya-in.dia.xBin.

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house wren shelterThis house wren shelter has an ever popular design ofpleasing proportions. The construction is relatively simplebecause all cuts are straight with only one angle, namely,that of the sidepieces.Cut the pieces for the sides and top to size. Nail on thefront and back and then nail on the roof. Cut the bottomlast and flt in place. Round off the rear bottom edge of thebottom so that it will swing freely. Drill pivot holes in thesides and insert brass screws through the holes and drivethem into the bottom. Then put in the front screw whichholds the bottom in place. Next flt the mounting strip in theback and notch out the roof as indicated. Be sure to makevent holes in the sides as shown on the drawing.The house wren shelter can be stained or painted.

bill of materialsSides: Z-lzx 5 x 6l+in.Front: L-lzx 6 x 6t/zin.Back: [-/zx 6 x 38/ein.Roof: t-Vz xLO x 9lz in.Bottom: L-lzx 5 x 5 in.Mountingstrip: 1-s/+ x lY+ xl2 in.36


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bluebird houseEvery bird fancier will want this house to attract bluebirdsto his yard and garden. It has an attractive design and atthe same time meets all the specifications for a bluebirdhouse. The scrolled eaves lend charm to this flne birddwelling.Make the front and back at the same time by nailing thestock for them together and cutting them to size in oneoperation. Drill the entrance hole in the front piece. Cutthe perch supports and nail them on the front with thedowel cross bar before you start to assemble the house.Cut the other pieces to size. Nail the front and back to thesidepieces. Now nail on the roof boards. Then cut the dec-orative eaves on the scroll saw or with a coping saw, twoat a time. Note that the top must have the same pitch asthe roof, namely, 60 degrees on each side of center line.Nail the eaves to the roof in front and ba,ck L/z inch from theedge.Now cut and fit the bottom. Round off the rear bottom edgeof the bottom so it will swing clear for cleaning. Drill holesfor the side pivot brass screws and then drive in thesescrews and the front holding screw. Use an eye bolt tomount this bluebird house as described on page 128"Stain or paint the house as desired. The roof can be a con-trasting color.

bill of materialsFront andback: 2- 1/z xgl/z x IOd/e in.Sides: 2- 1/z x5 x 8 in.Perchsupports: 2- 1/z xP x 4/z in.Dowel forperch: L- /+-in. dia. dowel x7 in. longRoof:Bottom: 2- t/z xTVz x IO in.I-4yz x 5 in.Scroll eaves: 2- yz xSlz x IOlz in.


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house for a tree swallowor violet green swallowThe house shown on the opposite page offers a challengeto the craftsman since it requires compound angles at allthe corners. If made by hand the sides must be beveled atangles of 54 degrees for the wall joints and 51 degrees forthe roof. Square up the pieces and then bevel the edges.If a circular saw is available, you can expedite the job bysetting the saw and miter gauge as indicated and sawingthe pieces on a production basis. For the side walls, tilt thesaw 473/+ degrees and set the miter gauge 717+ degrees ifthe gauge in the normal position reads 90 degrees. Boards7 inches wide can then be beveled to the correct angle.Repeat this operation for the four roof boards but set thesaw and the miter gauge at the required angles. It is sug-gested that you run through a piece of scrap wood as acheck before making the flnal cuts.Drill the entrance in one side. Assemble the body of thehouse part and then the roof and nail together. Then cutand flt the bottom. Dritl the holes for the brass pivot screwson both sides and screw them in place. Then drive in thefront holding screw.Mount the house by using a screw bolt with washers topand bottom as explained on page 1pg. The house can bepainted or stained.

bill of materialsSides: -lzxtos/+x 7 in.Fl,oof: 4-/z x L?s/e x IZs/+ in.Bottom: L-L/zx 5 x 5 in.Screw bolt: l-Y+-in. dia. x 4 in.4o.


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f licker houseThe design and dimensions of this flicker house are espe-cially tailored to meet the requirements of this interestingbird. The swing-out bottom makes it easy to clean. Theroof is flush in back for mounting against a tree or abuilding.Only the front has the ornamental design. Make the frontflrst and then the back, taking care that the roof angles arethe same. Then cut the other pieces. Nail the back to theside pieces. Then nail on the front after the perch bracketshave been nailed on from the inside. Keep the housesquare. NaiI on the two roof boards and then the orna,-mental scroll eaves at the front. The roof is flush with theback. The eaves set back 1 inch from the front edge.Cut and flt the bottom. Drill a hole on both sides for thepivot screw. Round off the bottom back edge of the bottomso that it swings free. Hold it in place with two brass pivotscrews, one on each side, and the holding screw in front.Mount the house through a hole in the back or by meansof a mounting strip extending from the top to the bottomand screwed on from the back.Stain the house a deep brown or dark green.

bill ofFront:Back:Sides:Roof:Bottom:Perch brackets:Dowel forperch:Ornamentaleave:

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chickadee split-log house

Log for body:Roof (slab withbark):Brass screws:

Shop students and homecraftsmen have a lot of fun con-structing a split-log chickadee house, although it requiresa considerable amount of handwork. However, when thismodel is made with care, the final product is a uniquehouse that is well worth the effort.Select any solid check-free log about 6 inches in diameterand 12 inches long. Use elm, pine, spruce, or any similarwood. Do not use one of the hardwoods because it wouldbe difficult to gouge out the inside.If a band saw is available, split the log as shown or cut itby hand with a ripsaw. To keep the log from rolling whileyou are sawing, nail two 45-degree strips on the bottom asshown. Be sure the nails are not in the path of the saw. Thesaw blade will not pinch and cutting will be made safe.Gouge out the two halves after they have been marked. Inone half drill the LL/e-inch entrance hole. In the other half,opposite the entrance hole, drill the hole for the mount-ing screw. Now tie the two halves together with a piece ofrope and put them in accurate alignment. Drill the fourscrew holes and screw the two pieces together, using brassscrews. The holes may be plugged if desired. Cut the topeven and nail the roof on the rear hatf of the house. Do notnail it onto the front because the front may be removed byloosening the four scre!\rs for cleaning the house.No stain or paint is needed.

bill of materials1-6-in. dia. x 12 in.1-7in.x7in.4-Zt/z in. long44


31/79

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downy woodpeckerrustic log houseThis downy woodpecker house is another split log housethat is quite simple to make but requires a little more hand-work than the average birdhouse. Ifowever, these rustichouses always lend a special charm to the yard or gardenwhere they are used.Select a softwood log such as pine, spruce, or cedar that issolid and free of checks and has the bark adhering to it.The log should be 6 inches in diameter and 14 inches long.Split it on a band saw as shown on page L45 or cut it byhand with the ripsaw. With a gouge and mallet hollow outboth halves from top to bottom, making the depressionabout 4 inches in diameter.Now put the two halves together and tie rope around themso they cannot move. Drill the four holes and fasten thepieces together with brass screws 2 t/zinc}:.es long. Removethe rope. Then fit in a 3/e-inch round wood bottom held inplace with wood screws so that it can be easily removedfor cleaning. Drill the entrance hole and the hole for the3/e-inch dowel perch. Cut the top for the roof at a 55-degreeangle and nail on the roof boards.The roof can be stained dark brown or green. Mount thehouse by means of screws driven through the back and intoa block nailed to a tree. The block is necessary to accommo-date the roof which has an overhang in the back.

bill of materialsLog forbody: 1-6 in. in dia. x 14 in.Bottom: 1-3/+ x approx. 4-in. dia.Roof: 2-3/qx8x8in.Dowel forperch: t-B/e in. dia. x 3t/z in.Brass screws: 4-2r/z in. Iong46,


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red-headed and hairy woodpeckersix-sided houseA power jointer facilitates the building of this woodpeckerhouse since the 60-degree bevel on the sides can be accu-rately and easily produced on this machine. However, goodjoints can be made by hand and it is a proof of skill to makethe beveled edges even and fit snugly.Cut the six sidepieces to the same dimensions and bevelthe edges. fn one piece, which will be the front, bore the2-inch diameter entrance hole. Nail the six pieces to-gether by double toenailing. Cut and fit in the six-sidedbottom. Hold it in place with three brass wood screws, 1inch long. This method of attachment allows it to be re-moved for easy cleaning.Now set the house down on its back and mark off the 60-degree pitch of the roof on the front. Cut the sides to thisslant for the roof. Make the roof boards and nail them inplace.Stain the house dark brown with weatherproof stain. Sincethe roof is flush in back, it can be mounted by screwthrough the back as shown on the drawing.

bill of materialsSides: 6-3/+ x 43/e x L8 in.Bottom: I-3/+x6 x 67/ein.Roof: 2-s/+x9 x 9 in.t4a


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titmouse houseThe pleasing lines of this titmouse house have made it thefavorite of many bird attractors. This house is an excellentone to adapt for other birds by altering the size of theopening, the depth, and the inside dimensions to accommo-date them.Nail together the stock for the front and back pieces, andcut these parts at the same time. Make the entrance holein the front. Now carefully lay out the side pieces, dupli-cating the scroll design on the front edge. These parts, too,can be nailed together for cutting in order to produceexactly matching pieces.Nait the sides onto the back and then nail the front in place.Next nail on the roof boards. Cut the bottom and round offthe bottom top edge so that the bottom will swing free forcleaning. Drill the holes for the pivot screws in the sides.Use brass screws to hold the bottom in place. Put anotherbrass screw in the front. Screw the mounting bracket onthe back.Give the house a coat of waterproof brown stain.

bitlFront andback:Sides:Roof:Bottom:Mountingbre,cket:Dowel forperch:

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location suggestionsThe question is often asked: where is the best place tomount and locate a bird house? The answer is: never locateit in deep shade or thick foliage. Place the house in partialshade so that it is kept cool, out of the sun's hot rays'However, do not select heavy foliage because enemies ofbirds may hide there and the birds will be wary of it. Afew dead branches near the house will afford good perches.

robin shelfAnyone can make a robin shelf which is as simple in con-struction as the one shown here. Although the supportingbrackets are scrolled, they can be made straight if you donot want the curved cuts.Make all the pieces according to the speciflcations on thedrawing. Nail the roof on the back and then nail in the roofsupporting brackets from the back and top. Next nail onthe bottom and then the side brackets to complete the shelf.Give the robin shelf a coat of weatherproof stain. It mightalso be painted dark green or brown.This robin shelf can be mounted under the eaves of a houseor garage or in some other protected place. Never place itin the direct sun or in the open. As an added feature, smallpegs can be installed in the top surface of the bottom to actas anchors for the nest. These pegs can be L/+-inch dowelsextending s/e inches to 1 inch above the floor.

bill ofBack:Roof:Bottom:Top supportingbrackets:Side braekets:

materialsI-Vz x8r/z x 9t/z in.L-lz x7/z xlOYz in.I-t/z xSYz x 7r/z in.2-lz x 4r/+ x 61/z tn.2_r/z xp x 61/z in.L5.2


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n uthatch houseThis nuthatch house is of an old design but it is one that isalways well liked. Perhaps the reason for its popularity isdue to the fact that while the house has an elaborate ap-pearance it is very simple to build. It requires a minimumof stock and consists of only a few parts.Nail together the stock for the front and the back and cutthe pieces at the same time. Then bore the entrance hole inthe front piece. Next make the roof and nail on the fronta,nd back.Cut and flt the bottom accurately. Hold it in place with twobrass screws in front and two in back as indicated. Ifscrews are used for this purpose, the house can be easilycleaned. The house can be mounted on a g/a-ir:.ch pipe flangeand on a pipe as shown on page 128, or the screw-boltmounting method may be used.Stain or paint house but use a dark color.

bill of materialsFront andback: Z-lzx 9L/ex 8 in.Roof: 2-Yz x LLlz x tLr/z in.Bottom: l-1/z x 8Yz x 8Vz in.5'4


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house finch-shelter IAlthough this flnch house is quite simple to assemble, theroof notches in the front and back pieces must be accu-rately made and do present a challenge to the builder.Lay out the front full size on a piece of paper. Transfer thislayout to the stock either by tracing or by attaching thepaper to the stock with cellophane tape. Nail together thestock for the front and back and cut them out at the sametime so that the roof and side pieces will flt tight. Bore thehole in the frontpiece. Now cut the other pieces.To assemble, flrst nail the front and back to the side pieces.Now nail on the lower roof pieces and flnish with the bev-eled ridge pieces. Drill holes for the brass pivot screws onboth sides. Round ofl the bottom rear edge of bottom sothat it will swing clear for cleaning. Screw in the pivotscrews. Install another brass holding screw in the frontafter drilling a hole for it.Stain or paint the house using dull, dark colors.The flnch house can be mounted on a pipe flange and gal-vanized pipe.

billFront andback:Sides:Roof:Ridge:Bottom:

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house f inch-shelter IIThe squat appearance of this fi.nch house is sure to attractattention. The house is simple to build although the anglesof the front and back pieces must be accurately cut.Nail the stock for the front and back pieces together sothat you can cut them out at the same time. Bore the en-trance hole in the front piece. Then make the other parts.Now nail the front and back to the side pieces; then nailon the roof. The bottom swings out on two pivot screws onthe sides. Drill the sides for the brass pivot screws as indi-cated. Round off the bottom rear edge of the bottom to pro-vide clearance. Next put another brass screw in the front tohold the bottom.The house can be painted or stained as desired. Mount it ona pipe flange and galvanized pipe as indicated.

bitlFront andback:Sides:Roof:Bottom:

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song sparrow shelfAlthough the shelter featured here is called a shelf, it reallyis a house without walls and is very much to the liking ofthe song sparrow.Make the four corner posts as shown in the drawing andnotch out the tops accurately for the front and back gables.Cut the gables and nail to the corner posts. Then from be-low, nail the posts to the floor, which is a/+-inch stock. Asthe last operation, nail on the two roof boards.The house can be painted white, if desired, or any othercolor that is suitable. Mount it on a post one to three feetfrom the ground.If you want, you can add several pegs in the floor to act asanchors to keep the nest from blowing or sliding off. Thesecan be l/a-inch dia. dowels by s/n-ioch long.

bill of materialsPosts: 4-I x1 x51/zin.Gables: 2-/zx2/+x 7in.Floor: I-3/+x7 x 7in.Roof: Z-Vz x 6/+ x 11 in.60


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phoebe and barn swallow shelfThis shelf is designed for the phoebe and barn swallow,but is also used by the robin. Two sides are completelyopen; the third is almost closed. Cut all the pieces as perdrawing. As the flrst step in assembling the shelf, nail theback to the floor. Then nail on the side and finally the roof.The construction work involved is very simple. paint theshelf white or any other suitable color. Mount it in a se-cluded and protected place.

bill of materialsBack: L-lz x7 xt33/+ in.Side: L-l/z x 43/+ x 91/z in.Floor: L-Yz x6 x 7 in.Roof: I.-t/z xWz x 7 in.6.2


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barn owl houseCan we fool the barn owl and have him make his nest inthis house just because it is the shape of a barn? Whateverhis preferences, this novel house provides enough room forthe large nest that the owl buitds.Nail together the stock for the front and back and cut themat the same time. Be sure that your dimensions are accu-rate. Cut the large 6-inch diameter opening in the front witha coping saw or a scroll saw. Then cut the other pieces.To assemble, nail the sides to the bottom; then nail on thefront and back after the perch has been nailed to the frontpiece. The perch is made out of one half of the part cut outfor the entrance opening. Next, nail on the lower roof piecesand then nail on the upper or ridge roof pieces. The bottomof this house does not swing out because the opening islarge enough for easy cleaning.Paint or stain house with weatherproof materials. Any coloris suitable.

bitlFront andback:Sides:Bottom:Lower roofparts:Upper roofparts:Perch:

of materialsZ_r/z xgt/z x LZs/4 iIJ.Z-Vz x7s/+ x 17 in.I-1/z x 8lz x 17 in.2-r/zx4 x20 in.2-r/zx5 x20 in.l-Yz-in. x 3 in.(le ot the cutoutfrom the entrance)6,4


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wood duck houseExtensive research on the habits and shelter of the woodduck has been conducted by Mr. Frank C. Bellrose, Asso-ciate Game Specialist of the Natural History Division ofthe State of Itlinois at Urbana, Illinois, and all of the in-formation given here is from Circular 45 printed by thedivision.The house shown is the best developed to date for the pro-tection of the wood duck. The top and sides are coveredwith tin so that squirrels cannot enter. The elliptical holekeeps out raccoons. The house is thus made predator proof.The best wood to use is rough-cut cypress. Cheaper lumberis suggested for the parts to be covered with the metal.Make the roof of four triangular pieces with the edges bev-eled to 60-degree angles and toenailed together as shownin the drawing. Mount the pyramid-shaped assembly on asolid board. Cover the entire front and half of both sideswith sheet metal. Next make the other parts of the boxhaving one side hinged to provide easy cleaning. Make thehinged side flt tight to prevent light from entering thehouse. Cover both the sides and the front with sheet metal.Drill holes in the bottom for drainage.If the house is to be flnished. stain it dark brown. Do notuse light or bright colors.Cover the bottom with 2 or 3 inches of sawdust, shavings,or wood chips to provide a base for the nest. Mount thehouse on the side of a tree not more than a few hundredyards from water and about 10 to 25 feet above the ground.If you are planning to put up several, have the shelters 50to 100 feet apart since the wood duck likes to nest in groups.

bill of materialsRoof: 4- 3/+ x 18 x 123/+ irr.Roof floor: 1- 3/+ x LB x 18 in.Front andback: 2- 3/+ x 12 x 24 in.Sides: 2- 3/4 x tOYp x 24 in.Bottom: 1- s7n x IOlz x IOL/z in,Sheet metal:Top:Front:Sides:I-L7yz x 251/z in.I-!4 x 24 in.z-LZ x 24 in.Hinges (withscrews) 2-Z x 2 in.66


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cupola 24-family marti n houseThis martin house has established itself as a shelter ofpleasing proportions and design so it will certainly be awelcome sight on the roof on which it is installed. A goodplace for it is on the garage roof.

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Next cut the side pieces and assemble them on the base.Nail on the porches from the inside and toenail the corners.Then make the egg-crate nest dividers and the two floors.Assemble these in the house. The center of the house isopen from top to bottom to provide the ventilation that isnecessary to keep the house cool. The floors and dividersare removable for easy cleaning. Do not make them fit tootight.Cut the copper for the roof. If copper is too expensive ornot available, use galvanized sheet metal. Solder the cor-ners. Fit the block into the top end to hold the flnial ball.Mount the metal roof on the square roof floor.The roof section is held to the main part of the house withangle irons and screws so that it may be easily removed forcleaning.Paint the house white or paint it to match the building onwhich it is mounted.

Basesides:Baseends:

Metalflash-ing:HouseEnds:

bill of2-3/a x 19 in. and wideenough to take theslant of the roof.2-s/+ x2O1/z in. andwide enough totake the slant ofthe roof.3 x 3 in. to fi.t aroundthe base.2-3/+ x?Ot/z x L9Vz in.

2-3/+ x 19 x L9L/z in.2-s/+x26t/z x26/z in.2-3/+ x L9 x 19 in.t2-lBx 6 x19 in.8-3/+x 3 x26L/zin.1-4-in. dia.l-2x2x2in.4-28 ga"ugex27 x23 in.

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three-story l4.-family marti n houseThis martin house is a familiar sight to all of us and is aperennial favorite. It is not exceptionally difficult to makesince all of the cuts are straight and only a moderate amountof accurate fitting is involved. The doors covering the en-

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Then make the three inside floors and the three sets of egg-crate nest dividers. Small cleats on the floors will hold thedividers in place as shown. Mount the floors and dividersinside the house. Make the doors and screw them in place.Make the roof last. It is held in place by iron angle bracketsand can be easily removed for cleaning in the fall. When thedoors are put in the open position, be sure to tighten thescrews to keep them from shutting accidentty and trappingthe birds.Paint the house white on the outside only; leave the insidenatural. Mount it on a pipe or 4 by 4-inch post as explainedon page 129.If the house is mounted on a wood. post, it canbe securely anchored with iron angle brackets. wood scrollbrackets can also be used.

bitlBase:Sides:Ends:Porches:Floors,inside:Nest dividers:Dividercleats:Roof:Doors:

of materialsL-3/+ x 14 x 20 in.2-3/+ x L4 x213/e in.2-B/+ x 121/z x25V+ in.4-3/+x 3 xt4 in.3-3/+ x12t/p xIZYz in.6-L/zx 6 xt?V.zin.

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herring pail wren houseIf you are looking for something out of the ordinary in abirdhouse, this wren house should meet with your approval.Although it is not a good policy to use bright colors forserious bird attracting, this birdhouse does lend itself togay colors. It may become a prized decoration and, strangeas it may seem, I put up several decorated in extremelybright colors, just for effect, and had families of wrens inthem almost immediatety. Of course, the house can be fin-ished in some drab color such as deep brown, and this isperhaps the best thing to do.Use an ordinary herring pail. Cut a s/+-inc}a diameter en-trance hole. Make the six roof pieces with 65 degree anglesides and toenail them together. Drill a hole through thetop for the eye bolt and put on a ball ornament.Turn the bottom ornamental pieces on a lathe and fastenthem with screws from the inside to the bottom of the pail.Drill a hole for tlae t/+-inch dowel perch and insert theperch. Fasten the hexagonal roof on the top of the pail,driving brass screws in every other section.If desired, the lower turned ornament can be left off and thehouse can be mounted on the top of a post or stick.

Pail:Fl,oof:Finial:Base:Base:Turnedpaft:

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Many unique designs and shapesare possible when houses aremade of cement and asbestoscement.Cement houses are not atfectedby weather and will last indefi-nitely. They are easy to paint.

ornamental cement birdhousesThe construction of cement birdhouses will offer you a fi.neopportunity to use your ingenuity. Objects of almost anydescription can be duplicated such as rustic logs and otheritems of interesting and intricate shape.The frame is made either of thin wood slats, as in thesmaller house, shown, or of wood parts and wire mesh, asin the log house. In the latter, .wz-indn mesh is used butordinary window-screen wire works better. It can be placedover the larger mesh.Make a dry mixture of one part cement and three parts as-bestos cement, which is used by steam fitters. When thor-oughly mixed, add just enough water to make a stiff, putty-like paste. With a putty knife or trowel, spread the mixtureon the frames. It will take at least a day for the cement todry, at which time it will have a white, hard finish that willbe weatherproof. The surface can be painted any desiredcolor. For the rustic log, apply the mixture so as to producea rough surface with deep furrows for the bark. The cementdries slowly so that you can experiment. When dry, applyan undercoat of dark green paint and another coat of darkbrown. Rub off the latter to let the green show through andyou will have a very natural-looking birdhouse. Thesehouses are cool in summer. Mount them securely becauseof their weight.80


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hirdhouse maintenance in winterIf you let your birdhouses go year after year without at-tention, they will become ditapidated. They will not only beuseless as far as the birds are concerned, but they will bean eyesore in your yard and garden.A birdhouse should be made so that it is easy to clean. Allof the designs in this book are of this type. At the very endof the season, when the birds have definitely left for thesouth, get a ladder and check each house. Clean it out witha stiff brush and if you have reason to believe that there arelice or other parasites, disinfect it with a strong insect spray.You can cover the holes of a martin house and, if it is on apole that can be lowered, leave it in the ,,down" position.It can remain this way until late spring. when the martinsare on their way back to your locality, remove the d.oorsand raise the house to the "up" position.When making your inspection, see how securely the houseis mounted. Be sure that the flrst heavy rain or windstormwill not blow it down. An accident of this kind will not onlywreck the house, but it will kill the young or break the eggs.Any house that seems the least bit shaky or loose shouldbe remounted and put up securely.If the roof of your birdhouse is loose, if the bottom is warped,if a side is cracked, fall is the time to take it down for com-plete repairs. Renail loose members and replace brokenparts if necessary. See that the house is sound throughout.rf it needs paint or stain, now is the time to refinish it. wtrenit is dry, return the house to its place outside so that it willhave a chance to weather all winter. In this way, when thebirds arrive in spring, the newness of the paint and stainwill be worn ofl.Winter is also a good time to relocate houses and feed.ers.Tend to the feeders flrst since they will be in use during thecoming winter. You may want to add a few new houses ormove some of your old ones. Now is the time to take careof these matters so that everything will be ready when thebirds arrive in spring. If you reappraise and improve yourprogram every year, it will be much more effective, becausethe wants of the birds will be taken care of and you will al-ways be prepared for them.a2


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box is suitable. The box is completely closed with an ex-tending shelf-perch at the bottom. The opening is also atthe bottom. Before the box is nailed closed, /+-in doweLperches should be mounted inside. Filt the bottom withstraw, excelsior, wood chips, or shavings, and you will havea comfortable, warm retreat for the birds.Locate the box so that it has a southern exposure and is pro-tected from the north wind. The box ean be mounted on theside of the house. Evergreens nearby will be an additionalattraction. The roof can extend if you desire, and the en-tire top can be covered with roofing paper. In addition tothis protected box, you might put up a few open shelves ina sunny protected place. The birds will welcome the chanceto gather, preen, and hop about here in the warm sun oncold winter days.

brush pileA favorite pastime of birds is to hunt and scratch arounda brush pile. In fall after you have flnished pruning, pile thebranches as illustrated, with a few sticking out on top tomake natural roosts. This makes a fine place for the birdsto congregate. If you put a feeder or two near, so muchthe better. The brush pile can be one of your winter feedingfacilities.86


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natural enemies of wild birdsJust as birds function in the balance of nature to keep downthe insect population and the spreading of weeds, so theythemselves have natural enemies which prevent them frommultiplying in dangerous proportions. An excessive birdpopulation would be just as harmful to man and nature asan oversupply of any other form of plant or animal life.The animal we think of first as an enemy of the birds is thecat, which does, in fact, kill many of them. It is not possiblefor you to attract birds and play host to cats simultaneously.One or the other has to go and you will have to make up yourmind which it is going to be. If stray cats are prowlingabout your property, catch them and turn them over to thehumane society in your city. It is suggested that you ob-tain a copy of U. S. Biological Survey Builetin No. 50, whichshows how to make a cat trap.Although we may think that cats are very destructive ofbird life, they do not kill nearly as many birds as starvation,lack of water, and lack of shelter in winter. Man can removemany of these hazards to the birds and by doing so increasetheir numbers. Disease also kilts many birds. For this reasonyards, birdhouses, and feeders should be kept clean at alltimes.Every city has more than enough sparrows and starlingsand there seems to be very little that can be done to get ridof them. They can also be classified as another na,turalenemy because they compete for the food of the other birds.If trapped, even in large numbers, it seems that there arecountless others to take their place. If you would 1ike totrap sparrows, write for Leaflet No. 61, English SparrowControl, issued by the Unitculture.Although these birds are pests, remember that they too eattheir share of insects and weed seeds and in this way do alot of good. Possibly it would be best for you to simply de-cide to put up with them. Since they like to eat on theground, set aside an area for them away from the regulareating place of the other birds. Keep this place stocked withcrumbs and other food. You will be able to bunch the un-desirables here, segregating them from the better com-pany. This area may even be on an adjoining vacant lot orsome remote corner on your property that is out of sightwhere they will not disturb the other birds.


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Bird's Nests of the West: A FieldGuideAudubon Land Bird GuideAudubon Water Bird Guide:'Water, Game, and Large Land BirdsAudubon'Western Bird GuideA Laboratory and Fietd Manual ofOrnithologyA Guide to Bird Finding Westof the MississippiA Guide to Bird Finding Eastof the MississippiNaming the Birds at a GlanceHow to Know the Birds: AnIntroduction to Bird RecognitionA Manual for the Identiflcation ofBirds in MinnesotaA Fieid Guide for Locating theEagle at Cassville, W-isconsin fngramBirds of North America Robbins

Birds hy RegionTitleBirds of AmericaBirds of ColumbiaWarblers of North AmericaNorth American WaterfowlNorth American Birds of PreyA Natural History of East andCentral North American BirdsSong and Garden Birds ofNorth America'Water, Prey, and Game Birds ofNorth AmericaBirds East of the RockiesBirds of MexicoBirds of the WestHandbook of Eastern NorthAmerican BirdsAudubon Birds of North AmericaArctic Birds of CanadaBirds of HawaiiBirds of East and Central AmericaBirds of New ZealandBirds of the West IndiesBirds of North AmericaDucks, Geese, and Swans ofNorth America

HeadstromPoughPoughPoughPettingillPettingillPettingillJenksPetersonF,oberts

AuthorPearsonSchauenseeChapmanDaySpruntForbush'Wetmore'WetmoreReedBlakeBoothChapmanAudubonSnyderMunroWilliamsFallaBondBrunn a,ndZirnKortright


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The Wild TurkeyPuffinsShearwatersThe Golden EagleA Guide to Bird Watching

TitleFundamentals of Ornitholo gyAn Introduction to OrnithotogyFundamentals of EcologyModern Bird StudyBirdsBird BiologyBird BehaviorThe Flight of BirdsA Classiflcation of Birds ofthe WorldA Classification of Recent BirdsThe Book of Bird LifeBirds and Their AttributesBirds Around the WorldBird Display and BehaviorA Study of Bird SongThe World of BirdsLiving Birds of the WorldThe BirdsA Lifetime With the BirdsAn Introduction to BirdsMarsh BirdsShore BirdsWild FowlDiving BirdsLand BirdsWater BirdsWater Birds-Bent's life HistoriesLand Birds-Bent's Life HistoriesBirds of the OceanWaterfowl TomorrowThe Migrations of BirdsMigration of BirdsSea-BirdsTerritory in Bird LifeWildlife ConservationPopulation Studies of BirdsThe Life of BirdsNatural History of Birds

AuthorVan Tyne and BergerWallaceOdumGriscomDarlingMacDonaldGoodwinStorer'WetmoreMayr and AmadonAllenAllenAmadonArmstrongArmstrongFisher and PetersonGilliardHeinrothGreeneKieranBentBentBentBentJaquesJaquesCollinsCollinsAlexanderLinduskaDorstLincolnFisher and LockleyHowardGabrielsonLackWeltyWing

SchorgerLockleyLockleyMurphyHickeyBooks for the Study and Enjoyment of Birds


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Lark 27Linden orbasswood 42Listing of birds A7Location of birdhouses 152Lumber for birdhouses 125Maintenance of birdhouses 1BzMany activities L7Maples 43Maple leaved viburnum 46Martin 29Martin houses 168-176Mason jar feeder 100Materials for birrlhouses 125Matrimony vine 48Meadow lark 27Migration studies 36Mountain ash 43Mounting heights for birdhousesr24Mounting the birdhouse I27Mourning dove 27Mulberry 44Myrtle warbler 27Nannyberry 46Natural enemies of birds 188Nesting habits 2lNesting materials LL7Norway spruce 44Nuthatch 29Nuthatchhouse L54Oaks 44Ornithology and bird watching

13Our seed mixture 64Owl house 164Pasture rose 47Peanut butter 61Pewee 26Phoebe 26Phoebe shelf 162Photography 38Pictures in the ffeld 94Pine 44Plantings that attract birds 4L4gPlatform feeder 74

Pools 106Preparation of suet EBPurple ffnch 27Purple martin 29Rare bird alert 36Raspberry 47Red bellied woodpecker BORed-headedwoodpecker BORed-headed woodpecker house148Red winged blackbird ZBR,eferencebooks 190-195Robin shelf L52Rose breasted grosbeak 26Ruby crowned kinglet ZBSt. Francis feeder 90Sand cherry 47Sapsucker 30Scarlet tanager 28Seed and suet log feeder 72Seed feeding 62Shadbush 44Shelters 115-182Shrubs that attract birds 45-42Sick birds 187Slate colored junco p8Small day 33Snowberry 47Snowbird 28Song sparrow 28Song sparrow shelf 160Sourgum 44Sparrows 28-29Spruce 44Square block feeder ZOSquirrel guard t?gSuet 57Suet log feeder 68Suet-seed cakes 59Suet-seed feeder 8BSummer feeding 52Swallow 29Tanager 28Teeter-totter squirrel guard 181Thrasher 24Thrush 30

Titmouse 29Titmouse house 150Tree guard 130Tree swallow ZgTree swallow house 140Trees that attract birds 4pA4Trolley feeder 78Tufted titmouse 29Types of birds 116Urban areas 38Useful books 190-19bViburnum 46Vines that attract birds 48Violet green swallow house L4OVirginia creeper 48Voice identiflcation g1Warbler 27Water for birds 105-118Ways of providing water 111Weather-vane feeder 76When to look for birds ZOW'here to look for birds ZLWhite breasted nuthatch ZgWhite pine 44White spruce 44White throated sparrow ZgWild birds 4Wild grape 48Wildlife agencies 189Window shelf feeder 8pWinterberry 47Winter care of birds 185Winter care of birdbaths 113Winter feeding 53Withe rod 47Wood duck house 166Woodpeckers 30Woodpecker house 146Wood pewee 26Wood thrush 30'Wren 26'Wren houses 133-136, 178Yellorv bellied sap sucker 30Your on-n seed mi-xture 63

Documents

Birds Section 5 Bird Houses