Bio Research Argania

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COSMETICSACTIVE INGREDIENTS

I. Stussi*, F. Henry*, Ph. Moser*, L. Danoux*, Chr. Jeanmaire*, Vronique Gillon*, Isabelle Benoit*, Z. Charrouf**, G. Pauly*

Argania spinosa How Ecological Farming, Fair Trade and SustainabilityCan Drive the Reasearch for New Cosmetic Active Ingredients

Keywords: argan, sustainability, active ingredient

The Argan:Description Distribution

The Argan (Argania spinosa) is an indige-nous tree of South Morocco, growing ina region that runs from Safi in the Northto the edge of the Sahara in the South.The main zone extends South East fromEssaouira to the Souss plain. The forestof Argans covers about 800,000 ha andcontains more than 2 million trees. It isperfectly at home in this magnificent dryand poor landscape and is often foundon mountains. The Argan is the secondmost common species in Morocco, be-hind the evergreen oak (Quercus ilex)and ahead of the thuya (Tetraclinis ar-ticulata).The tree is a member of the Sapotaceaefamily, which also includes the shea tree(Butyrospermum parkii), and it is particu-

larly resistant to the dry and arid condi-tions of this region. It can tolerate tem-peratures that range from 3 to 50C andgrows at altitudes of up to 1,500 metreswhen facing South.Its roots, which extend over a large areaand are very deep, can search out waterat more than 30 metres under the ground,which helps it survive the dry periodsthat can last for several months eachyear.The tree reaches heights of 8 10 me-

tres and its shape is similar to an olivetree. Its life is quite long and it is not un-

common for it to reach ages of 150

200 years. Some 250-year-old trees havebeen recorded.

Not only should foreign cultures teach us traditional cosmetic uses;

they should also reap the benefit of any economical development,

directly for their own standard of living as well as via the mainte-

nance of the local biotope.

Argania spinosa is an endemic tree ofMorocco. It is the only region in the

world where this tree is growing.

For centuries, it has been a source

of income for the local popula-

tions. Today, the rationalization

of the exploitation is vital for the

survival of the Argania grove.

A local economic interest group for

the development, preservation and val-

orisation of the forest has been created by

Professor Charrouf, to implement a full pro-gram including the optimisation of the

women work, the protection and

maintenance of existing Arga-

nia trees, and also the plan-

tation of young trees.

The LS Argan Program

proposes original solu-

tions to support the strate-

gy: a range of cosmetic

active ingredients, derived

from the valorisation of Ar-

gania culture by-products.

Introduction

Argan fruits

Argan treeSouth Morocco

Argan trunk referredto as snakeskin

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Its leaves are small, dark green and growon branches that can be spiky at theirends. It is usually an evergreen but may

loose its leaves in a persistent dry period.The tree has small oval greenish yellowfruits that become brown when theyripen and contain a very hard shell thatencloses one to three almond-like ker-nels. The ripening period is quite longand takes 2 years.The trunk has an especially spectacularbark, referred to as snakeskin because ofits very rough surface.

Traditional uses

The Argan is mainly known for its oil,which is used by Berber women for skin,hair and nail care and is found in hun-dreds of different beauty recipes. It isnormally obtained manually from the

fruits using tradi-tional methods.

After sepa-rating thenut fromthe pulp,

it iscrackedopen byhand to

obtain thekernel. This

is then cold-pressed to pro-

duce the oil.The women do the work involved inpreparing the oil and are also responsi-ble for harvesting the fruits.

In order to prepare an oil of food quali-ty, the kernel are roasted before beingpressed. This additional stage in theprocess gives the oil a characteristic lighthazelnut smell.Generally, the local rural population usesevery part of the Argan for their ownneeds:

the fruits, for extracting the oil,

the fruit husks, as fuel for fires,

the oil cake, a by-product of oil

production, as an animal feed, the leaves, eaten on the tree by goats,

the wood, for construction and asfirewood.

The Argania forest:socio-economic role

The Argania forest has a very importantsocio-economic role in these regions.Its special legal status (Dahir of March 4th

1925 and the specifications for agricul-tural practices under Argan trees of July20th 1983) has made it a state ownedforest with extensive rights of use re-served for the local populations: right toharvest fruits and collect wood for per-sonal use, right to free passage. At thesame time, the right to cultivate is sub-

ject to authorisation by the local Eaux et

Forts administration (Water and ForestGovernment Agency) and a fee has to bepaid. Furthermore, each village is oblig-ed to keep its trees in good condition.It should not be forgotten that the Mo-roccan Argan provides subsistence forover 3 million people in a country with apopulation in excess of 30 million. It isthe focus for many rural activities.The inhabitants of the Argania forestbenefit both from being able to use thedifferent parts of the tree (fruits, leaves,wood) for their own needs and also fromthe work and associated revenue that itsexploitation provides.The fruits, which are mainly used for pro-ducing the oil, also provide part of theirlivestocks alimentation via the produc-tion by-products: the oil cake is given tothe goats and the husks are used as fuelfor fires. The oil is sold locally and hasseen its use and commercialisation be-come widely developed at an interna-tional level.The development of agriculture under

the trees has led to Argan exploitationbecoming more profitable, sometimes toits cost. It does however mean that localpopulations are better nourished andhave improved incomes.It is suggested that exploiting the Arga-nia forest provides 20 million days of workper year, allowing rural populations tostay in the countryside and limiting therural exodus.

A fragile ecosystem

Unfortunately the Argania forest is frag-ile, partly as a victim of its riches but al-so because of changes in the rural way

of life and climate. Over-cultivation, soilerosion and advancing desertificationare amongst the threats to this unique

heritage. The natural increase in the popu-lation leads to an increase in wood col-lection, which is used for both construc-tion and as firewood.On the plains, the amount of land usedfor agricultural purposes is growing andthis is accompanied by scrub clearanceand installation of irrigation systems,which result in underground water re-serves running dry and increasingly saltysoil. The groundwork, which often goesdeep, damages the Argan tree root sys-

tems and leaves them weakened. Exces-sive grazing makes it more difficult forthe Argans to recover. The climate, whichis always hard in these regions, is ac-companied by erosion that makes thesoil even more arid.Implementing actions to preserve andregenerate the Argania forest is there-fore a priority, as much from an ecologi-cal point of view to preserve this last bar-rier against the advancing desert as froman economic perspective to maintain asource of revenue for the local popula-tion.UNESCO recognised this issue and classedthe Moroccan Argania forest as a Bio-sphere Reserve (MAB) in 1998. The Bio-sphere Reserves are delimited regions inland-based ecosystems where one triesto reconcile economic development withconserving the biodiversity. BiosphereReserves serve in some ways as 'livinglaboratories' for testing out and demon-strating integrated management of land,water and biodiversity, which is the prin-

cipal of the ecosystem approach that hasresulted from the biological diversityconvention (UNESCO 1996).The Biosphere Reserves have to fulfilthree main tasks that are complementaryand synergistic:

conservation role: contribute to the

conservation of the whole range of

biodiversity elements especially the

landscapes, the ecosystems, the speciesand the genetic variation,

development role: to foster econom-ic and human development, which issocio-culturally and ecologically sus-tainable,

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logistic role: to provide support forresearch, monitoring, education andinformation exchange related to lo-

cal, national and global issues of con-servation and development.

The global network of Biosphere Reservesresulted from UNESCOs Man and Bios-phere (MAB) programme, which intendsto provide the means required to ensurethe conservation and sustainable use ofthe biological diversity and to improvethe relationship between individuals andtheir environment at a global level.They are internationally recognized, nomi-nated by national governments and re-

main under sovereign jurisdiction of thestates where they are located.In 2004, the global network of BiosphereReserves consisted of 459 Reserves in al-most 100 countries.

Actions to promote theprotection of the Argania forest

The need to protect the Argania foresthas not gone un-noticed either by the lo-cal authorities or at an international lev-

el. Many initiatives have been launchedto help preserve and develop the Arga-nia forest and to reverse its regression.With this aim in mind, Professor ZoubidaCharrouffrom Rabat University, who hascampaigned for many years to improvethe status of Moroccan rural women,created Targanine in 1996. Targanine is anetwork of cooperatives whose objectiveis to save the Argania forest: firstly, byeducating the local populations in theprotection of their heritage and, second-

ly, by providing the means for them toorganise the traditional production ofArgan oil and to develop its commerciali-sation. The cooperatives, which consistand are managed solely by women, pro-vide them with a supplementary sourceof income and thereby increases theirsocial status.In addition to producing oil, these coop-eratives have the following objectives:

making women aware of how to har-vest the fruit whilst respecting the Ar-

gania forest,

participating in the replanting of theArgania forest, each women agrees toplant 10 Argans per year

organising and monitoring of literacyprogrammes.

In 2005, no less than 6 extracting andcommercialising cooperatives and 30milling cooperatives made up an eco-nomic organization, which has a busi-ness that was initially centred on Arganoil production but has now grown to in-clude creating value for other by-prod-ucts from the Argania forest and its pro-tection.Fair trade and sustainable developmentare the central pillars of this initiative.

For fair tradeThe cooperatives agree to sell the fruit oftheir enterprises at market prices thatensure an adequate return to sustaintheir activity. Furthermore, from an eco-nomic point of view, they ensure thatwomen receive a salary equivalent to thelocal minimum wage, which is a big stepforward compared to the normal situa-tion where traditional production usual-ly uses underpaid labour. Being assuredof a decent salary is a measure of social

recognition for these women and the co-operatives are also a way of escapingfrom the isolation that is their usual fare.

For sustainable development

The major objective of these coopera-tives is to increase awareness amongstlocal populations of the problems relat-ed to the fragility of the Argania forest,which is often their only source of in-come. In order to develop their business,it is essential that means are found to

preserve and regenerate this valuablesource.It is important to support these actionstoday to ensure the long-term protec-tion of the Argania forest.Using known or new fractions of the Ar-gan for cosmetic purposes directly linkedto well being can not be considered un-less the complete respect of this weak-ened ecosystem can be guaranteed.For the sustainable development of thisbusiness, the collection conditions must

be rational and strictly monitored.For this reason, Laboratoires Srobio-logiques have launched a number of ini-tiatives in this respect in collaborationwith recognised local actors.

A partnership based onfundamental values

For many years Laboratoires Srobio-logiques have applied ethno-botanic andsustainable development methods. Aftertheir experiences in French Guyana (Flux-hydran programme), they have becomeinvolved in initiatives for the preserva-tion of the Moroccan Argania forest.For nearly 4 years, Laboratoires Srobio-logiques and the Targanine network ofcooperatives, under the initiative andwith the close collaboration of ProfessorZoubida Charrouf, have been developing

a partnership aimed at identifying newsources of cosmetic active ingredientsbut with one over-riding condition: thenew developments must support and en-courage the protection and add value tothe Moroccan Argania forest.This North South partnership is centredon three main elements:

Identification of specific fractions(leaves and oil cake) of the Argan thatcould be of value to the cosmetic in-dustry and which will provide addi-tional incomes for Moroccan women.

Perform a study to evaluate the ef-fects of harvesting leaves on Argangrowth and to define the most ap-propriate specifications.

The environmental effect of adding val-ue to the leaves depends on the treesecology, the dynamics of the ecosystemsand the socio-economic circumstances.The study looked at these different fac-

tors during a three-month mission toMorocco in 2004, which LaboratoiresSrobiologiques financed.The response of the Argan to its leavesbeing harvested for their potential cos-metic value was studied by installingan experimental unit in the village ofAmelne, Tiznit province, in the South ofAgadir. This work was done after havingreceived approval from the provincialgovernor and the local authorities. Theexperimental unit, established on a plot

of the Argania forest, involved monitor-ing growth, flowering and fruit produc-tion of trees, which were subject to arange of sampling protocols. As the re-sults were not expected until after sev-

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eral years of study, other ways of ob-taining Argan leaves were also looked at,including short-term measures for Arga-

nia forest preservation that could beused by the Targanine cooperatives.There are several options for collectingleaves:

Collection of yellowing leaves on theground or on the trees,

Picking green leaves on the trees,

Recovering leaves from maintenanceoperations on the Argania forest:coppicing.

After evaluating several possibilities, thepractice of coppicing was selected.This maintenance operation has to bedone systematically and regularly andinvolves selecting the best stems on eachtree and then removing the others. Thisleads to a spontaneous regeneration ofthe Argan and the branches that are keptdevelop with greater vigour and arehighly productive.This provides a source of leaves that can

be collected and dried. The local popula-tion uses the wood that is produced.This procedure, which has been approvedby the local authorities, has a positive ef-fect on the environment because it pro-vides a perpetual improvement to theArgans in the forest. By purchasing theseleaves to add value later, an incentive forthe local population to perform this of-ten neglected but important mainte-nance task was created.

Involvement of local populations in the

protection and added value process ofthe Argania forest, specifically by ini-tiating a tree nursery.

In 2004, the objective of ensuring sus-tainable development was also translat-ed into the implementation of a tech-nology transfer programme based on anexisting nursery with the aim of creatinga new tree nursery in one of the Targa-nine network cooperatives, the Tatma-tine cooperative in Tiout. The project hasbeen submitted to the provincial gover-nor, the Water and Forest GovernmentAgency and local authorities who havegiven their approval and offered theirsupport.

Laboratoires Srobiologiques have fi-nanced this project which aims to extendand increase reforestation of the Arga-

nia forest, and it has developed a proto-col for germinating Argan seeds andplanting new trees. A forestry engineerhas trained the staff who manage andmonitor the nursery.A 10-year protocol has been established

which will not only result in environmen-

tal education and increased awareness of

the frailty of this ecosystem amongst the

local population but will also ensure thelong-term sustainability of the existingArgania forest. Other types of plant (or-

namental, and fodder herbs) are also partof the program and will provide the lo-cal populations with complementary in-comes.The result of a NorthSouth collabora-tion: the LS Argan Program, a range ofcosmetic active substances from the Ar-gan tree for skin care.Whilst the Argan is mainly known for itsoil, Laboratoires Srobiologiques haveextended their field of work to look atother fractions.By combining local traditional knowledge

with their scientific expertise, they havedeveloped a complete range of severalactive ingredients for cosmetics for skincare that have been created whilst re-specting the fundamental values in-volved in sustainable development andfair trade.

Argan leaf extracts:the polyphenols

So as to encourage the local populationto mark out the Argania forest as re-quired by the impact study, the potentialvalue of the leaves using phyto-chemi-cal analysis was evaluated. The Arganleaves have a high concentration of poly-

phenols, known for their anti-free radi-cal properties and for the prevention ofskin ageing.HPLC PDA identification of the follow-ing components:

Myricitrin (main component)

Rutin

Quercitin

Quercetine-3-O-galactoside

A series of tests has demonstrated theiranti-collagenase, anti-MMP-1 and anti-free radical properties. A consumer test

has shown its potential for protectingthe skin against premature ageing.

MMP and skin ageing

The skins structure, especially its firm-ness and elasticity, is directly related tothe composition and structure of theECM (extra-cellular matrix). This extra-cellular compartment consists mainly offibrous macromolecules: collagen andelastin that are synthesised by fibrob-

lasts. It is a place of intense biological ac-tivity and exchange. Many enzymes areactive in this compartment in a some-times-fragile equilibrium that is optimalin the young skin. We are talking abouthomeostasis.The MMP (Matrix Metallo-Proteinases)are enzymes synthesised by fibroblasts.Their role is to cause the slow degrada-tion of collagen fibres so as they can berenewed. Tissue inhibitors called TIMPcounterbalance their action. They workin a combined and balanced fashion.

During skin ageing, there is an imbalancebetween MMP and TIMP with an increase

in production and activation of MMP and

a reduction in TIMP, which is a breakdown

in the homeostasis system. This leads to

an increased rate of degradation of col-

lagen fibres, and a loss of density in the

ECM. At the same time, fibroblast colla-

gen synthesis slows down.

The direct result is a loss of skin elastici-ty and firmness.This phenomenon is aggravated by ex-

posure to the sun: many bibliographicstudies have shown that MMP are overexpressed in sun-exposed skin which ag-gravates actinic ageing (Fig. 1).Arganyl is able to work against thedamaging effect of MMP on the colla-gen fibre network and thereby preservethe quality of the tissues supporting theskin. This action is complemented by anupstream effect due to its anti-free radi-

cal properties. These free radicals, whoseproduction is boosted by environmen-tal stress such as UV exposure, also con-tribute to the skin ageing process (Fig. 1).It is a new and natural solution for pro-tecting skin against premature ageingand especially UV induced ageing.

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Demonstration of anti-MMP-1propertiesMMP-1 (Matrix-Metallo-Proteinase type

1) is a collagenase secreted by dermal fi-broblasts. Its concentration is increasedin aged skin. It is also greatly increasedby UV exposure or during inflammation.It initiates a degradation of fibrous col-lagen (types I and III) in fragments whichare further cleaved into small peptidesby MMP-2 and MMP-9. Moreover, MMP-1 expression is induced by ROS (Reac-tive Oxygen Species), UVA and B, there-fore MMP-1 play a major function in cu-taneous ageing and photo-ageing.

The aim of this trial is to evaluate the po-tential inhibiting effect of Arganyl onthis class of MMP.

ProtocolReactive mixture at pH 7.6:Human MMP-1 + Arganyl

60 minutes of incubation at 20C

Addition of synthetic MMP-1 substrate:Mca-Pro-Leu-Gly-Leu-Dpa-Ala-Arg-

NH2

Fluorescence measurement at 393 nm

Estimation of enzyme activityinhibition.

A positive control is used to validatethe test (TIMP-1)

Results (Fig. 2)Arganyl has demonstrated a direct dose

dependant anti-MMP-1 effect that con-firms its ageing prevention properties.

Demonstration of anti-collagenaseproperties in-vitroThe aim of this trial is to confirm theanti-collagenase properties observed inlaboratory tests (IC 50 = 0.55%). In thistrial, human skin biopsies are incubatedwith collagenase: the collagen network,made visible by fluorescent antibodies,

shows a massive loss of collagen fibers.The ability of Arganyl to prevent thisdestruction was compared to phenan-throline, a positive anti-collagen control(Fig. 3).

When Arganyl is added at a dose of0.5%, the dermis retains its initial ap-pearance with a dense and uniform col-lagen network. Furthermore, this protec-tive effect against collagenase is dosedependent.

Demonstration of anti-free radicalpropertiesIn order to complete our understandingof the anti-ageing effects, its ability toprotect the skin against oxidative ageingof its anti-free radical properties havebeen demonstrated.Free radicals play a predominant role inskin ageing, as much at the cellular lev-el as in the ECM. They are particularly im-portant in the oxidation of the macro-molecules that make up the EMC, lead-

ing to a degradation of the skins physicalproperties. Additionally, the free radicals,especially the ROS generated by UV ex-posure, can stimulate MMP expressionby dermal fibroblasts.

The anti-free radical ability has beenevaluated using a variety of laboratoryand in-vitro tests. The tests looked atboth the natural initial forms and the in-duced reactive forms of oxygen.Arganyl has demonstrated a significantanti-free radical activity especially againstthe oxygen reactive forms such as hy-

droxyl radicals (HO) and superoxide an-ions (O2) (Fig. 4).

Consumer testsThe laboratory and in vitro tests de-scribed above were completed by con-sumer tests.Fifteen 45 65 year's old women wereinvolved in this study. Each applied thetwo creams described below to theirfaces twice a day, morning and evening,for 8 weeks:

placebo cream on one side,

3% of Arganyl cream on theother side.

Fig. 1 Role of MMP in the skin ageing process

Fig. 2 Quantification of the inhibitory effect of ARGANYL on MMP-1: MMP in-hibition 39% at 0.1% - Positive control (TIMP): inhibition 46% at 50 nM

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At the end of 8 weeks, they were askedto evaluate the benefits of the treatmentcomparing before and after treatmentand treatment against placebo.88% of the women thought their skinhad more elasticity71% of the women thought the grainwas finer and the pores less obvious.100% of the women thought their skinwas softer to touch.These different factors were quantified

on an arbitrary scale from 0 to 3 in com-parison with the placebo. The results aresummarized in Fig. 5.

ConclusionArganyl extracted from Argan leaves isrich in polyphenols and has proven itsprotective effect on the ECM via an iden-tified biological mechanism acting oncollagenase such as on MMP-1 to pro-vide overall collagen protection.

This biological effect results in the pre-vention of skin slackening that can bedetected by consumers.It is an active ingredient that is especial-ly suitable for anti-ageing care of theface but can also be used to return firm-ness to the body. It also has an undeni-able potential in anti-age sun care prod-ucts.

Fruit extracts:Almond Kernel The oil

Argan fruits have a very hard shell thatencloses one to three almond like kernelsfrom which the precious oil is extracted.

Only women are involved in preparingthis oil. On average, 33 kg of dry fruit,harvested from 6 to 7 trees, are neededto make 1 litre of oil.Lipofructyl Argan is prepared by me-chanical extraction (cold pressing) and

satisfies the criteria of extra-virgin.Thanks to the special efforts of the Tar-ganine network, this oil has been certi-fied ECOCERT and received the Slowfood1st prize in 2001.In terms of its composition, Argan oil is ex-

Fig. 3 Immuno-fluorescence of collagen fibres demonstration of the inhibitory effect of Arganyl on collagenase.E: epidermis D: dermis : collagen lysis

Fig. 4 Results of chemical and biochemical tests

Fig. 5 Consumer test evaluation of the results compared to the placebo.

Control Incubation with

collagenase

Incubation withcollagenase +

2.5% phenanthroline


0.5% Arganyl


1.0% Arganyl

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ceptionally rich in poly-unsaturated fattyacids (including linoleic acid, omega-6)and natural tocopherols.

Average composition: Fatty acids: 99%, of which over

80% is unsaturated fatty acids

Insaponifiables: 1%

Tocopherols: 60 - 90 mg/100 g

Sterols: 130 - 230 mg/100 g

Fatty acid compositionThanks to its exceptional concentrationof unsaturated fatty acids, Argan oilhelps restore the skins hydro-lipid film.Linoleic acid, one of the omega-6 fattyacids, is a vitamin F precursor. It is pre-

sent at a concentration that is threetimes greater than in olive oil. As an es-sential fatty acid, it has an importantrole in preserving cellular integrity. Theconcentration of natural tocopherols isespecially high and gives the oil excel-lent anti-radical and anti-stress proper-ties in addition to natural self-protectionagainst oxidants (Fig. 6).Argan oil is widely used by Moroccan

women, both in their cooking for its tasteand for many traditional beauty rituals,for skin, hair and nail care, and has beenfor centuries. Many traditional beautysecrets are based on Argan oil; e.g. Berberwomen cover themselves in a mixture ofequal parts of Argan oil and almond oilbefore going to the hammam (steambathes).

Skin careWhen applied to the skin, Argan oilrapidly penetrates without leaving agreasy or shiny trace. In fact, its effect iscompletely the opposite as it leaves theskin soft with an extraordinary sensoryfeeling. As a body care product, the oil isideal for massages.It provides:

an excellent anti-free radical effect

that provides preventive anti-ageingcare,

a nutritional effect on dry skin with atendency to eczema by helping to re-store the cutaneous barrier,

a sebum regulating action for greasyskins,

a regenerating ability for the care ofstretch marks and enhancing healing.

Fig. 6 Fatty acid composition of argan oil

Palmitic acid (C16:0): 12 - 13%

Stearic acid (C18:0): 5 - 7%Oleic acid (C18:1): 43 - 49.1%

Linoleic acid (C18:2): 23.9 - 36.0%

Linolenic acid (C18:3):


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Hair careArgan oil is traditionally used as a maskor hair conditioner as it:

strengthens hair, provides shine, soft-ness and a silky effect,

nourishes and revitalises the scalp.

Nail careArgan oil is commonly used in a mixturewith equal parts of lemon juice as anevening application for nails before go-ing to bed. Regular use of the mixturestrengthens brittle nails.Argan oil, considered as Berbers gold, is

a precious oil with multiple and variedcosmetic uses.

The proteins

So as to increase the profitability of thecooperatives producing Argan oil, thecosmetic use of the by-products of thisbusiness was evaluated.A fraction rich in high molecular weightproteins (> 200 000 Daltons) has beenidentified and isolated from the oil cake.Its composition gives it very interestingsurface properties. When it is applied tothe skin, the molecules form a networkwith a high affinity for the cutaneoussurface and develop an instant and per-ceptible tightening effect.Argatensyl is a cosmetic active ingredi-ent constituted exclusively from this spe-cific active fraction, which is present in awater-soluble form that makes easier itsincorporation into finished products.Its instant skin tightening properties and

its ability to correct wrinkles, have beendemonstrated by the clinical trials de-scribed below.

Consumer testsImmediate tightening effect

Crows feet area

Application of an oil-free serum, con-taining 5% or 10% Argatensyl, on thecrows feet in a group of fifteen 35 45year's old women.

Macrophotographs taken at T = 0, T + 15minutes and T + 1 hour. The trialists useda semi-quantitative scale to make a vi-sual evaluation of the tightening effect.The results are shown in Fig. 7 and Fig. 8.

Fig. 7 Before and after application of a serum containing 5% Argatensyl

Fig. 8 Semi-quantitative evaluation of the benefits of Argantensyl treatmentcompared to a placebo

Fig. 9 Before and after application of a serum containing 5% Argatensyl,on neck wrinkle

Before treatment

Before treatment

Placebo Serum Serum with 5% Argatensyl

15 minutes after treatment

Neckwrinkle

Reductionof thewrinkle

After 28 daysof treatment

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Long term anti-wrinkle properties

neck wrinkles

Application of an oil-free serum, con-taining 5% Argatensyl to the neck, inthe morning and the evening for 4 weeksby a group of forteen 35 45 year's oldwomen.Macrophotographs and prints beforetreatment and after 28 days of treat-

ment were taken to evaluate depth ofwrinkles.The results are shown in Fig. 9 and Fig. 10.ConclusionArgatensyl has a good anti-wrinkle ef-fect when applied for a long term treat-ment of 28 days. Wrinkles are signifi-cantly reduced.The Argan proteins have a special inter-est for products with instant tighteningproperties for a flash effect especiallyon crows feet wrinkles as well as for an-

ti-ageing and anti-wrinkle facial careproducts. They can also be used in prod-ucts for the neck, the dcollet and forthe body.

Conclusion

The Argan, the tree that symbolises Mo-rocco, is an incontestable source of rich-ness however we must understand howto preserve it so as to ensure its long termexistence and preserve the ecological andeconomical future of this part of Mo-rocco.The LS Argan program combines iden-tifying sources of new and attractiveactive ingredients for the well being ofeveryone whilst respecting man andhis environment, using concrete actionsthat favour sustainable developmentand, above all, the conservation of theArgania grove.

References

(1) Pumareda L., Henry F., Charrouf Z., Pauly G., Fal-connet G.Valorisation des feuilles dArganier:

impact environnemental. In press: Bois & Forts

des Tropiques

(2) Henry F., Danoux L., Moser P., Charrouf Z., Pauly

G. New potential cosmetic active ingredient

containing polyphenols from Argania spinosa

(L.) Skeels leaves. In: XXI International Confer-

ence on Polyphenols, Marrakech, 2002

(3) Charrouf Z., Guillaume D., Driouich A. L'arganier:

un atout pour le Maroc. Biofutur, 54-57, 2002

Authors addresses:

* Isabelle Stussi, Florence Henry,Philippe Moser, Louis Danoux,

Christine Jeanmaire,Vronique Gillon, Isabelle Benoit,

Gilles PaulyLaboratoires SrobiologiquesDivision de Cognis France

3, rue de Seichamps54425 Pulnoy

FranceEmail:[email protected]

** Prof. Zoubida CharroufLaboratoire de Recherche

Dpartment de ChimieFacult des Sciences

Universit Mohamed V

avenue Ibn Batouta B.P.1014 Rabat

Morocco

Fig. 10 Improvement of skin surface, and decrease of neck wrinkle after 28 daysof treatment

Before treatment After 28 days of treatment

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