Big Betty Instructions

8/12/2019 Big Betty Instructions

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Here's how I put Big Betty together:

You will need:

1 x Silver Oversized purse frame with loops 2 x 1/2in (13mm) Bolt Snaps

1 x small mag snap(optional)

1 yrd (1m) purse making cord - see step 11

1/2 yard (1/2m) of fabric for the exterior 1/2 yard (1/2m) of fabric for the lining

1/2 yard (1/2m) of Vilene Woven fusible interfacing/stabilizer(use woven, it's stronger and

this bigger bag needs the strength). 1/2 yard (1/2m) of Vilene Thermolam Compressed Fleece (stabilser)

V. strong fabric glue

A walking foot is also dead handy if you are going to sew a frill

**All seam allowances are 3/8in (1cm) unless stated otherwise**

1. Make up your purse pattern - Download the FREE Betty purse pattern here.Print the pattern,cut out the two pieces and stick 'em together (as instructed on the pattern).2. Cut your fabric pieces - Cut out the fabrics, fusible interfacing and fleece pieces as directed onthe pattern. Iron the woven interfacing pattern pieces to the wrong side of your exterior pattern

pieces. Transfer all markings with chalk or a disappearing marker. Also cut:

For the strap cut 1 strip exterior fabric 27in x 3 1/8in (68 1/2cm x 8cm)

If you are making a top frill cut 2 strips of lining fabric: 33in x2 3/8in (84cm x 6cm).

If you are making an inner pocket cut 2 pieces lining fabric: 8 1/2in x 6in (22cm x 15cm).

3. Make up frill (if using, if not proceed to step 5) - Iron both frill strips. Take one of the stripsand fold in half by bringing the long edges RST. Match edges and stitch both short edges of thestrip together with a 1/4in (1/2cm) seam allowance. Turn the frill RSO and iron. Now set yourmachine to the longest stitchlength and the loosest tension. Leaving long thread tails at both ends,

stitch along the raw top edge of the frill with a 3/8in (1cm) seam allowance.Repeat step with the

other frill strip. Return themachine stitch length and tension to their normal settings.4. Gather the frill and fit and baste it to your exterior fabric- Take the frill and pull on thebottom thread (the bobbin thread) to gather up the frill. Gather up the frill until it is the right lengthto fit in between the 2 frill markings on the top edge of the exterior pattern pieces. If you have a

walking foot fit it to your machine and stitch the frills to secure them in place - stitch just above the

gathering stitches. Remove the loose gathering stitches.Now place the gathered frill onto the top edge of your exterior pieces (in between the 2 frill

markings). Match the raw top edge of the frill to the top edge of exterior pattern piece. Pin togther

at regular and frequent intervals just like I have (on another frilly project below). Using thewalking foot baste the frill to the exterior piece with a 1/4in (1/2cm) seam allowance. If you don'thave a walking foot, decrease the foot pressure, take your time, and replace the frills with your
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fingers as you sew (cos the machine will have a tendency to push the frills forward). Repeat stepwith the other frill strip.

Pin the frill to the TOP edge of the bag exterior piece and it will look something like the 'pin em up

action' in the pic above.

5. Sew exterior purse Create a sandwich with the exterior fabric pieces RST in the middle andthe fleece pieces on the outside. Match all edges and pin everything together. Starting from one ofthe hinge markings, sew the sides and bottom of the exterior finishing at the other hinge markings

as shown by the wonky arrow in the photo.


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Yes I know the picture is wrong for this bag, (so ignore the blue measurements in the photo) the

principle is excata-mundo the same. Pin and stitch around the sides and bottom (in between thehinge markings) just like in the pic above.

6. Create a flat bottom for your purse- Take one of the corners of your exterior bag and matchthe side seam with the bottom seam line. Flatten to form a triangle. Measure 2in (5cm) across thetip of the triangle mark the line with pen/chalk and pin. Stitch along the marked line and trim theexcess fabric 3/8in (1cm) from the seam. Repeat for the other bottom corner of the exterior. Ironthe seam open and turn exterior bag right side out.

Flatten triangle and make your line 2in (5cm) across from the tip of triangle. Check the markedline is at right angles to centre line of the triangle.


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Trim off excess fabric, and there you go; one flat bottom!

7. Sew inner pocket if using (if not using proceed to step 8) - Make a mark for the snap on oneof the pocket fabric pieces in the centre 1in (2 1/2cm) down from the top edge. Iron a 1in (3/8cm)

square of fusible interfacing behind the marking. Use a stitch ripper make two small slits (for theprongs) into the marking you have just made. Take one of the non-magnetic snap half and push theprongs through the right side the pocket piece. Slip a metal washer over the prongs at the back andthen press the prongs down away from each other. If you want to see mag snap pics check out step5 of this tute.

Bring both pocket pieces RST, match all edges, pin and stitch all around sides and bottom, but leave

a 4in (10cm) gap in the bottom edge for turning out. Turn pocket RSO, push raw edges of the gap

into the pocket and iron.

On one of the bag lining fabric pieces make a marking in the centre 2 3/4in (7cm) down from the

top edge for the magnetic half of the snap. Insert the snap as before. Place the lining pocket ontobag lining piece (so that magnetic snap halves click together). Check that the pocket is straight (andnot wonky) on the lining, pin and stitch all around the sides and bottom of the pocket - stitching the

gap in the pocket shut as you sew.

8. Stitch the bag lining - Sew the lining bag in the same way as steps 5 & 6 except there is nofleece to work with.

9. Bring the exterior bag and the lining bag together -Place the purse lining WSO into theexterior purse (RSO). The wrong sides of the lining and the exterior should now be touching eachother. Carefully match all seams and raw edges of the lining purse to the exterior purse and pin at

the top edge.
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Stitch the exterior and lining together neatly all around the top of the purse no more than 1/8 (3mm)

from the edge. Be especially neat at the side seams as these will show on the finished purse. Ifnecessary tidy up the top edge by trimming off any stray uneven fabric or interfacing.

10.Now for the glue -Apply glue to the channel of one of the sides of the frame.

Work with oneside of the purse at time. Start at the hinge and work your way to the other hinge. Be quite

generous with the glue (but not enough to cause an oozing mess!) Apply glue to the side and topedge of your purse, again be generous - if you are a bit clumsy you might want to mask the bit of

the purse that will not be inserted into the frame with some tape. It doesn't matter if glue oozes ontothe frame but it is a pain if it gets all over the fabric. Allow the glue to become touch dry (wait atleast 5 mins).


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Be quite generous with the glue. This gluebtw is the business, it's got more grip than a pot oflobsters!

11. Insert your purse into the frame - Start by inserting the sides of your purse into the frame(hinge end first) then work your way up to the top corners. Use a pointy object to poke and stuff thefabric evenly into the frame - small sewing scissors are perfect for this job. After you have insertedthe sides of the purse into the frame, start inserting the top edge of the purse into the frame. You'llsee that the top edge of the purse is a little wider than the top edge of the frame - this is intentional

because we want the top edge to be a little gathered. Continue to stuff the fabric into the top edge of

the frame and space the gathers out evenly. Turn the purse over to check that the lining side is alsoinserted evenly into the frame. Leave to dry for 15min before tackling the other side of the frameand purse in the same way.Let everything dry for about 30 mins and then pick off any stray glue from the frame.
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Sides go into the frame first.

Poke the fabric right into the frame with tips of scissors - work your way around the frame evenly. If

you have sewn a frill take extra care to wodge and stuff the top frilled edge of the purse into the

frame.It might be slightly more awkward to have the frill to contend with, but the frill actuallymakes for a stronger purse - so the frill is worth the (slightly) extra hassle :)


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Flip your purse over and check that the lining side is even as well.

As this bag is big, I highly recommend using purse making cord to reinforce the bond between the

frame and the purse. Stuff the cord into the lining side of the frame using the pointy tool as before. If you added a frill to the purse use this cord.

If you didn't add a frill use this cord.

12. Make the strap- take the strap fabric and makethe strap in exactly the same way as step 3 inthis tute(except there is no fleece to work with). Thread one of the strap ends thru the ring of thebolt snapand stitch the end down (stitch forward and reverse a couple of time for strength). Repeatwith the other strap end and bolt snap. Clip the strap onto your bag and skip off to the shops with a

spring in your step. You're looking great, Honey!
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Big Betty Instructions