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Betsy Donald, Queen’s University
“The Creative Rural Economy: from theory to practice”, June 14, 2011
Kingston, Ontario
What is creative food?
What are the trends in creative food?
Success stories
Lessons for Ontario’s rural communities
Ten years ago, “creative food” described elements of a newer food system
Creative food included specialty, local, organic, ethnic, and fair-trade foods that had supply networks distinct from mainstream ones
Creative food offered innovative solutions to ecological, social and health concerns
Today we know much more about the
complexities of “creative food” chains
We know more about the contradictions and ambiguities of systems like Local and green (Born and Purcell, Marsden, Blay-Palmer )
Global and fair trade, organic and cosmopolitan systems (Imbruce, Guthman and Morgan)
Regional food networks (Kneafsey, Donald et al.)
We know about the challenges within the food system
Labour practices (Slocum; Color of Food; Allen); gender (Coldwell);
class and hunger (Allen, Berg, Bedore); natural systems (Whatmore, McClintock)
We have more sophisticated theoretical tools and
empirical cases
We still don’t know how various “creative food” segments are fairing compared to the conventional industry
We don’t know how the financial crisis has affected different aspects of the food system
We examined recent US data to find out
The food industry is resilient There is evidence of leveling off in organic
and specialty sales There is sustained interest in local and
‘whole’ food and its role in health and community well-being
This interest has spawned policy innovation in local food systems
Those regions with an ethos and history of sustainable food are fairing better than those without
Source: St. Louis Federal Reserve
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
Beverages
Bakery
Confectionary
Sauces and Seasonings
Snacks
Spreads
Average Weekly Sales Number of Stores
0
100000
200000
300000
400000
500000
600000
700000
2006 Q3 2007 Q3 2008 Q3 2009 Q3 2010 Q3 0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
Source: Whole Foods Markets
Product Category
Retail Sales of Specialty Foods Retail Sales of All Foods 2009 Share of Specialty
Food Sales (%)
2007 2009
% Change in Sales
2007 2009
% Change in Sales
$ Million $ Million
$ Million $ Million
Yogurt ad Kefir 599 830 38.6 3,680 4,113 11.8 20.2 Refrigerated Juices and Functional Beverages 877 1,172 33.6 4,605 4,687 1.8 25.0 Shelf-Stable Pastas 576 749 30.0 6,030 6,007 -0.4 12.5 Beans Grains and Rice 345 448 29.9 1,988 2,513 26.4 17.8 Sweetners 227 282 24.2 2,052 2,239 9.1 12.6 Frozen Fruits and Vegetables 175 217 24.0 3,423 3,748 9.5 5.8 Baking Mixes, Supplies and Flours 582 687 18.0 3,107 3,663 17.9 18.8 Chips, Pretzels and Snacks 1,307 1,509 15.5 9,234 10,788 16.8 14.0 Refidgerated Sauces, Sauces and Dips 477 549 15.1 848 965 13.8 56.9 Milk, Half &Half Cream 764 822 7.6 15,222 13,972 -8.2 5.9 Oils 718 706 -1.7 2,100 2,478 18.0 28.5 Water 453 428 -5.5 5,348 4,899 -8.4 8.7 Frozen Juices and Beverages 14 13 -7.1 454 421 -7.3 3.1
Source: State of the Specialty Food Industry 2010. Table does not include sales figures from Walmart and Trader Joes
0
5000
10000
15000
20000
25000
30000
2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009
Source: Organic Trade Association
0
5
10
15
20
25
2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009
Source: Organic Trade Association
“The Whole Foods movement is the ‘Age of the
Unthinkable’ for processed foods” Food Navigator, April 5, 2011
Places that have successful food producers and manufactures are those that already have an ethos of incorporating sustainable and fairness elements into products and processes
New food entrepreneurs differ from back- to-the-landers of the 1960s
The new entrepreneurs are often well educated children of baby boomers who add business acumen to the idealism of an older generation
New food entrepreneurs are urban-oriented and engaged in solving pressing societal problems like energy use, food safety, hunger, community development
Back40 veg, PEC
Local community development through food is not a fad
Those regions with a history and ethos of environmentally and socially friendly practices are fairing better than those without
The new urban oriented food entrepreneur is an asset
There are success stories all across the food chain, but we will focus on two types of regions, the ingredients towards their success, and lessons learned
Case 1: The Revitalizing Region Saving itself through food - Hardwick, Vermont
Case 2: The Established Foodie Region A rich food network of producers, food writers,
restaurants, farmers markets – Portland, Maine
Hardwick is a town in Vermont with a population of 3,200
“Facing a Main Street dotted with vacant stores, residents of this hardscrabble community are reaching into its past to secure its future,
betting on farming to make Hardwick the town that was saved by food”. NYTimes
http://vimeo.com/7729181
75-100 new jobs Creating new food businesses with
institutional partners Downtown revitalized through new
restaurants and food stores New investment dollars flowing into
community Successful national marketing campaign
1. Working collectively as a community “Across the country a lot of people are doing it individually but it’s rare when you see the
kind of collective they are pursuing,” said Mr. Fried, whose firm considers social and
environmental issues when investing. “The bottom line is they are providing jobs and
making it possible for others to have their own business.”
2. Establishing the Center for an Agricultural Economy An industrial park for agricultural businesses
3. Securing the Vermont Food Venture Center Agricultural producers rent kitchen space and get
business advice for adding value to raw ingredients
Portland, Maine Population: 65,000 Consistently ranked as one of America’s best
small towns for food culture
National awards and accolades High ratio of local restaurants to chain
outlets High per capita number of local CSAs and
farmer’s markets High per capita number of food stores,
shops, cookbook stores, kitchen stores High per capita number of brewpubs,
microbreweries, wine bars, etc.
Great product (native ingredients from across the food chain)
Talented chefs with a cooperative yet competitive spirit
Do-it-yourself attitude toward food and admiration of diverse culinary traditions
Signature “regional” meal - breakfast Lead cultural firms that led to spin-offs Engaged residents with high expectations and
supportive of regional food
Ontario is currently witnessing an explosion of interest in local, sustainable and high-quality, accessible food, yet more needs to be done to put Ontario’s rural communities on the map for their food culture
Where does your community fit into the food equation?
Do you have a strong agricultural base? Do you have good local infrastructure? Do you have a foodie culture? Who are your “food” champions? Do you collaborate with surrounding regions? Do you market your region? (dedicated food
writers)
Continue to develop infrastructure for local food products
Conduct a foodie IQ test for your community
Embrace the new urban-oriented food entrepreneur
Develop better collaboration with all actors in the food chain for a place-based food vision
Engage better marketing services for local producers of high quality food and drink
Donald, B. et al., 2010. “Re-regionalizing the Food System” Special Issue, Cambridge Journal of Regions, Economy and Society
Sims, R. 2010. “Putting Place on the Menu” Journal of Rural Studies, 26, 105-115.
Blay-Palmer, A. 2011. “Regional Food-Hub Project for Ontario” Ghena, J. 2008. “The Downtown Coffee House Business”
Downtown Economics, Issue 138, Centre for Community and Economic Development, University of Wisconsin-Extension, Madison, WI.
Knutson, M. 2010. “Reinvesting restaurants (and rural communities), Centre for Rural Affairs, Lyons, NE
Ngo, Minh K. 2011. “The Place of Food: …new urban oriented farmers in rural…Ontario”, MA Thesis, Carlton University
Specific places to check out: Organic Valley Cooperative and the impact it has had on the very rural
village of LaFarge Wisconsin New Mexico’s Dreaming vision
The Journal of Ag Food Systems and Community Development
Another often cited community for its focus on food and economic development is Woodbury County Iowa www.woodburyorganics.com
American Planning Association’s resource page on food systems planning http://www.planning.org/nationalcenters/health/food.htm and their special issue on food planning with a number of community examples http://www.planning.org/planning/2009/aug/index.htm from Vancouver, Berkeley, Montreal
Community studies featured in the book “Culinary Tourism” by Lucy Long. This is mainly an anthropological text and includes international communities
Queen’s University SSHRC grant on sustainable food and regional
economic development, no. 864-07-0101 Heather Hall and Sean Field Dr. Yolande Chan and the staff at the
Monieson Centre, Queen’s School of Business Mr. Harold Flaming, Ontario Rural Council Farmers, food entrepreneurs, food educators
and rural communities across North America for their time and devotion to making our food system better for all