BEST TRAILS IN AMERICA

8/7/2019 BEST TRAILS IN AMERICA

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The Pleasuresof a Night OutL

ife is good. Youre a thousand miles from the office, kicking back

in a sunny alpine meadow surrounded by 14,000-foot peaks. Whileyour coworkers back home chew on the days second stale doughnut, you

flip the perfect blueberry pancake, admiring the perfect morning.Spending nights out on the trail, you begin to relax and forget about the

numbing influences of society. You have time to become part of the natu-ral world, and to study those things around and above you that you cantsee back home.

Thats why the editors at BACKPACKER have pulled together someof their favorite hikes across America. Some you can do easily in 2 or

3 daysa long weekend, saywhile others require more of an invest-ment of your time.

Weve kept each group organized by state so you can find a great back-packing trail reasonably close to your home ground. Or if youre on theroad for vacation or business, you can sneak in a few days away for your-

self. Youll find a description of the spot, plus details on how to get there,getting permits, where to get a good map or guide, and more.

T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA 5

Denali NationalPark, Alaska

Let rivers and ridgelines be your

compass as you hike in the

shadow of Alaskas Mt. McKinley.

By Jeff Rennicke

It is, quite simply, the mostspectacular moment in North

American hiking. For 3 days, the

world has been locked in a grayhaze of rain and fog. Mosquitoes

buzz incessantly in my rain hood.I trudge along, gazing only at my

feet. Then I look up, and there it

is.The clouds had cleared over the

highest mountain on the continent:Mt. McKinley. It appears to be the

roof of the world. Denali NationalPark and Preserve (the mountain

itself is still officially Mt. McKinley)is classic Alaskaopen horizons,grizzlies, wind swirling across the

tundra, snow-capped peaks. Evenwithout Mt. McKinley, it would

be one of the worlds premier

hiking locations. But when themountain peeks out from behindthe clouds, backpacking here issimply sublime.

At 6 million acres, the park isthe size of Massachusetts, but fea-

tures only one maintained back-packing trail. The best routes are

along rivers and ridgelines, routesthat require good map-readingskills, experience in fording fast,

cold streams, and keeping one eye

open for grizzlies. You wont make

a lot of miles in Denali, either. Theopen tundra and long horizonscan sometimes seem endless, as if

youre getting nowhere. But then,you can always just sit down and

wait for the mountain to show

itself.Expedition Planner

Permits: The parks backcountry

units each have a user quota thatfills quickly in high season.

Reservations cannot be made inadvance, so have second and

third route choices in mind. Bear-resistant food containers are re-quired, but are loaned for free

with a backcountry permit pur-

chase.Access: The park entrance is237 miles north of Anchorage and

reachable by car, shuttle, or train(Alaska Railroad, 800/544-0552;www.akrr.com). Private cars are

not allowed beyond the parksentrance. Buses shuttle visitors

along the narrow Park Road.Season: Ideal hiking is in July and

August. Early September is primeberry-picking and bear-viewing

time, but snow starts around LaborDay.Guides:Denali Nationa l Park

#222 map (Trails Illustrated,800/962-1643; $9.95). Denali

Nation al Park & Preserve, AK:

Backcountry Compan ion by JonNierenberg, (Alaska Natural

History Association, 907/274-8440;$8.95).

Contact: Denali National Park andPreserve , 907/683-2294;

www.nps.gov/dena.

WEEKEND GETAWAYS
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www.backpacker.com6 T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA

Route: The Escalante Route is

recommended only for sea-soned desert travelers. First-

time Grand Canyon hikers maywant to stick to more estab-lished trails, like Bright Angel,

South Kaibab, and Hermit.Season: Spring and late fall are

the most pleasant times to hike.In winter, be prepared for ice

and snow at the rim. Do notbackpack here from June toearly September; temperatures

can soar to 115F at the base ofthe canyon.

Guides: Grand Canyon

National Park #207map (TrailsIllustrated, 800/962-1643;

$9.95). USGS 7.5-minute quadsfor the Escalante Route: DesertView, Cape Royal, and

Grandview Point(USGS,888/ASK-USGS; $4 e ach) .

Hiking the Grand Canyon byJohn Annerino (Sierra Club

Books, 415/977-5500; $15).Contact: BackcountryInformation Center, Grand

Canyon National Park, 928/638-7875; www.nps.gov/grca.

Wild NightlifeIf you keep your eyes open and your movements quiet, youll see all

kinds of animals. Whereas hawks and vultures move about during the

heat of midday, most animals wait until dusk and dawn. Nighthawks

and bats skim fields and streams for insects. Deer and elk eat dew-

laden plants in open fields. Keep watching and carnivores will come

to feast on the deer. Cover your flashlight with red cellophane forlow-impact nighttime spotting.

Wildlife is most active in spring and fall. In spring, hungry snakes

and bears are emerging from winters sleep and snowmelt-filled

vernal pools harbor mating salamanders and frogs. In fall, hawks and

songbirds migrate, while foxes and mink hunt all day to fatten up for

winter.

Go where the animals go. Riparian areas attract critters

galore, especially at twilight; keep a fair distance so that

you dont discourage the thirsty from drinking. Many

species prefer transition zones, where fields meld intoforests and foothills flatten into plains, since they

provide food and shelter close together.

Position yourself on the edge of these

zones so you can see animals mov-

ing in both areas.

Grand CanyonNational Park,Arizona

A mile deep, 71,000 footsteps

wide, some 278 miles longthe impressive statistics dont

hit you with the same explo-

sive force as a hike into the

heart of this otherworldly

natural wonder.

By Annette McGivney

Amere 6 feet tall and 39years old, Im akin to a

grain of sand on a seashore inthis ancient, gargantuan land-scape. As I hike 10 miles down

from the canyons South Rim tothe Colorado River via the

Tanner Trail, I lose 5,000 feet ofelevation and all sense of scale.

In the Grand Canyon, land-marks that seem near actuallystand 2 or 5 or 20 miles away.

Layers of the Earth, not thehands on my watch, mark the

passage of time. Light reflectsoff rock, making every color

radiate with a neon glow.As I thread my way between

boulders and sheer bluffs, I fol-

low a faintly marked pathcalled the Escalante Route.

Each evening, the route leadsme to another lush riverside

campsite, where soft sand andabundant water make me forget

Im in the desert. But in

between, the route scramblesup scree slopes 1,000 feetabove the river, detours around

serpentine drainages, and slidesdown slot canyons. You have

to work hard to touch the

treasures of the Grand Canyon,but the once -in-a-lifetimerewards are many.

I stop for lunch at the Unkar

overlook and peer at rapids1,500 feet below me, the water

of Unkar Creek churning asit tumbles in from the North

Rim. Vishnu Temple, TheTabernacle, and other mam-moth stone monuments rise

like islands in a vast ocean of

space. Behind me are the ter-raced layers of the South Rim.Im so deep in the heart of the

canyon that I cant see the top,nor can I fathom enjoying anyplace more than I am relishing

this giant hole in the ground.Nowhere else have I felt so

insignificant, yet so alive.

Expedition Planner

Permits: Required for all

overnight camping; they maybe obtained up to 4 months inadvance through the mail. You

can also apply for a same-daypermit at the parks backcoun-

try office, but demand oftenexceeds availability. SeeContact below for an online

permit application and officephone number. Fees are $10

per group, plus $5 per personper night of camping.

T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA 7
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T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA 98 T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA

SequoiaNational Park,California

Theres a soothing magic to

the big trees and high trails of

Sequoia National Park.

By Jordan Rane

Standing at the Wolvertontrailhead in Sequoia

National Park, already 7,000

feet higher than most Californiafreeways, my ties to that hazy

world below are feeling prettytenuous. They snap altogether

somewhere along the parksprized Lakes Trail, where akingdom of yellow pine and

ponderosa, Douglas fir, andincense cedar begs me to leave

it all behind.Sequoia, a 604-square-mile

tract of canyons, forests, rivers,

and looming granite peaks, hasits bragging rightsthe tallest

peak in the Lower 48 (thatsMt. Whitney, 14,496 feet), the

largest living thing on the entireplanet (a sequoia tree namedGeneral Sherman), and some

of the most stunning alpinewilderness anywhere.

John Muir penned volumesabout the Sierra, believing it

to be the worlds most life-enhancing spot. The conserva-tionist even proved it by climb-

ing a pine tree in a raging light-ning storm just to get closer to

it all. As I lie wide-eyed undera full moon at 9,000 feet,

encased in an amphitheater oflooming silver peaks above

Emerald Lake, I understandMuirs addiction.

Expedition Planner

Route: An ideal weekend fol-

lows the 13-mile Lakes Trail to

Pear Lake and the Tablelandarea from the Wolverton trail-

head on the west side ofSequoia National Park. Keep

going on the High Sierra Trail(pick it up just south of the

Wolverton trailhead at CrescentMeadow).

Drive Time: Los Angeles:4 hours; Fresno: 1 hourThe Way: From Los Angeles,

head up US 5 to CA 99 andVisalia. Take CA 198 east for

36 miles to the GeneralsHighway park entrance.Dayhike: A short trail off

Generals Highway will intro-duce you to General Sherman

himself. Hes 50 times yourheight and 17,000 times your

weight, and predates JuliusCaesar.Elevation: Most trails range

from 6,000 to 10,000 feet.Crowd Control: The nicest

time (weather, bugs, andcrowds) is September and early

October.Guides: Sequoia & Kings

Canyon National Parks map

(Tom Harrison Maps, 800/ 265-9090; backpacker.com/mapstore;

$8.95). Also recommended isDay Hiking Sequoia by Steve

Sorense n ($12.95).Walk So ftly: Protect blackbears and yourself by removing

trash from your car and storingall food in bear-proof canisters

on the trail.Contact: Sequoia &Kings Canyon National

Parks, 559/565-3134;www.nps.gov/seki.

Myakka RiverState Park,Florida

Hike the Myakka Trail for a

glimpse of the Sunshine States

wild and grassy past.

By Johnny Molloy

Close your eyes and imag-ine backpacking in

Florida. If your image includesslogging down a waterloggedtrail and dodging alligators,

youre in for a pleasant sur-prise. I had the good fortune to

go backpacking in Myakka

River State Park last winter, andnow my vision of Florida hik-ing includes a vast dry prairieand far-reaching views.

The 28,875-acre park in cen-tral Florida protects one of the

largest remaining tracts ofFloridas dry grass prairie, anecosystem that once covered

parts of the state from coast tocoast. Add the Wild and Scenic

Myakka River, 12 miles of

which flow through the park,as well as 7,500 acres of wilder-ness around Lower MyakkaLake, and you have the mak-

ings of a great hike.The 39-mile, hikers-only

Myakka Trail loops through adiverse array of grass/palmetto

prairies, dense palm islands,and shady oak hammocks. Thepark is home to an odd crew

of wildlife, including burrowing

www.backpacker.com

In the Night

Sky: Finding

the PlanetsFive of our solar systems nine planets are general-

ly visible from Earth with the naked eye: Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter,

and Saturn. Its not true that planets dont twinkle. Twinkling is caused

by atmospheric turbulence, and enough rocking and rolling in near

space can send even Venus dancing. One tip for planet-gazing is to

look for the reddish tint of Mars and Saturns pale yellow light. A star

wheel will help you plot their position, which changes nightly.
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owls, bald eagles, grasshoppersparrows, ospreys, sandhill

cranes, and Eastern box turtles.Theres also a good chance of

seeing alligators (this is stillFlorida, after all). Distinctivelocal plants include the endan-

gered wild pineapple and res-urrection ferns, which become

brown and shriveled until infre-quent winter rains bring them

back to life.The day I set out on the trail,

the rich green hues of new

growth peeked through theblackened soil of a recent fire.

After crossing a sunny, openflat, the sandy, narrow footpath

entered a dark palm grove. Anarmadillo skittered through

palm fronds. Willows grewthick alongside an intermittentstreambed. That night, I

camped at Bee Island, one ofthe parks six backcountry

campsites (well water must betreated, and wells sometimesdry up, so check ahead). As I

pitched my tent in a stand oflongleaf pines overlooking the

vast prairie, fog rolled acrossthe landscape and an owl

broke the silence of the coolevening.

Expedition Planner

Drive Time: Myakka River

State Park is 112 hours(70 miles) south of Tampa

and 212 hours (130 miles)from Orlando.The Way: From Tampa, take

I-75 south for 60 miles toSarasota and exit 37 (Clark

Road). Head east on ClarkRoad (FL 72) for 9 miles to

Myakka River State Park.Trails: The Myakka Trail makes

a 39-mile circuit, with numer-ous shorter loop options avail-able. Combine backpacking

and paddling by canoeing theMyakka River between the

Lower and Upper MyakkaLakes. A backcountry fee of $3

per night for adults and $2 pernight for children under 18 isrequired for camping (see

Contact below).Dayhike: For a good sampling

of hammock and prairieecosystems, start at the main

trailhead near Upper MyakkaLake and hike the 6-mile Bee

Island Loop around the MossyHammock campsite (return onFox High Road, a dirt track

closed to vehicles).Elevation: The elevation

imperceptibly shifts from a highof 40 feet atop the prairiedown to about 25 feet near

Upper Myakka Lake.Cant Miss: Walking the sharp

ecological border where thelush Deer Prairie Slough meets

the dry, open prairie.Crowd Control: Winter isthe best time to hike here

(November to January); youllshare a backcountry campsite

with others only on weekends.Spring is more crowded; secure

reservations for backcountrycampsites at least a week inadvance.

Guides: A free, comprehensivetrail map is available at the

park ranger station (see Contactbelow). A Hiking Guide to theTrails of Florida by Elizabeth F.Carter (Menasha Ridge Press,

800/247-9437; www.backpacker..com/bookstore; $12.95).Walk So ftly: Campfires arepermitted, but should be avoid-

ed, as the prairie is usuallytinder-dry in winter. TheMyakka River is home to the

endangered wood stork.Admire wildlife from a distance

and dont disturb nests.Contact: Myakka River StatePark, 941/361-6511;

http://www.floridastateparks .org/.

MahoosucRange,Maine/NewHampshire

Mahoosuc Notch is a glacier-

carved gash winding through

precipitous granite cliffs.

By Michele J. Morris

E very summer, the greatwave of northeasternurbanites fleeing for the hills

flows first over New YorksCatskills and Adirondacks, thenthrough the Berkshires in

Massachusetts, and finallycrashes against Whites in New

Hampshire, frothing up andover the high peaks of the

Presidential Range. But those

seeking an oasis far from themaddening crowd find their

way to the Mahoosucs.Guy Waterman, who with

his wife, Laura, wrote the defin-itive history of hiking in the

Northeast, called the MahoosucRange a rambling and rugged

spine of middling-sized peaks.Give thanks for such faintpraise, for it has helped damn

these mountains to blessedobscurity.

The Mahoosucs ramble fromthe Androscoggin River innortheast New Hampshire to

the southwest edge of Maine.The length of the range is

traversed by the 31-mileMahoosuc Trail, a segment of

the Appalachian Trail (AT). Itsloftiest point is an unimpressive4,180 feet, but hike the trail

from west to east and youllclimb close to 10,000 feet

(total) over 10 peaks. Despitethose impressive statistics, only

one aspect of the MahoosucRange has earned it real notori-ety, especially among AT thru-

hikers: the mile-long ravineknown as Mahoosuc Notch. Its

been dubbed the hardest mileon the AT, and many thru-hik-

ers anticipate its challenges allthe way from Georgia.

I hiked the Mahoosucs from

east to west on Labor Dayweekend, when youd expect

any backcountry destinationwithin a days drive ofWashington and Boston to be

completely overrun with urbanescapees. Not the Mahoosucs.

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The only traffic I encounteredwas a handful of fast-moving

AT thru-hikers and a few week-end enthusiasts.

When I arrived at SpeckPond on Friday night, the tentplatforms were nearly full, and

a persistent drizzle was falling.I pitched my little hoop tent,

then ambled down to the shel-ter to see what the thru-hikers

whod just tackled The Notchhad to say about the so-calledhardest mile.

Their answers were as variedas their trail names. Some

parts were kinda scary, saidThree Gaited Mule, but its not

the hardest mile. DiamondDoug added that it was cool

to be airborne several times, jumping from boulder to boul-der. But Split P wanted none

of it. She hated The Notch: Icant wait to get back to the big

mileage days when I can justwalk. It took me 412 hours toget through there. It was

awful.The one thing they agreed

on was Diamond Dougs sum-mation: I dont know that it

was the hardest mile, but itsure was the slowest.Mahoosuc Notch is filled

halfway with immense blocksof schist cleaved from the walls

above by countless freeze-and-thaw cycles. Tree roots snake

through the clefts and crevices.Water gurgles somewherebeneath the boulders but is sel-

dom seen. Even on blindinglysunny days, it remains a chilly,

Gothic place, hiding pockets ofsnow and ice.

In the best conditions, theroute is still so challenging that

backpackers consider it a pointof honor to keep their packson while clambering up or

shimmying under the gargan-tuan bo ulders. Be forewarned:

The Notch is a graveyard ofNalgene bottles, trekking poles,

and anything else not securelystashed inside a pack. Rain cov-ers, knuckles, and nerves often

emerge a bit more ragged onthe other side.

The rest of the trail is amplereward for the slow delibera-

tion of The Notch. Even whenlow-flying clouds obscure the

many stunning views, thealpine zones are miraculous,enveloping you in the

Christmasy smells of balsamfirs, the granite path carving

through heathshrubs andblueberry, low and denseagainst the wind. Green and

orange grasses and auburn andlime moss light up the bog

walks. Alongside burblingcreeks, pale white Indian pipes

and tiny red mushrooms scatterinto a lilliputian glade like afairy trail.

Later in the weekend, havingpassed another half-handful of

thru-hikers heading north, Ireached the summit of Goose

Eye Mountain and found myfirst crowd. There, among therocks and fog, milled a covey

of spruce grouse. Cluckingnervously, they materialized in

and out of the whiteness, thenvanished into the thickets, leav-ing me once again alone with

the silence.

Expedition PlannerThe Way: The easiest access

from the west is at theCentennial/AT trailhead onUS 2, about 2 miles east of

Gorham, New Hampshire. Theeastern trailhead is in Grafton

Notch State Park, Maine, wherethe AT crosses ME 26. Bothlocations are about 180 miles

from Boston.Route: The 31-mile Mahoosuc

Trail travels along the spine ofthe range from Gorham to

Grafton Notch State Park, with anew parallel trail in the works.Numerous side trails allow for

several excellent wee kend loopsof varying difficulty.

Fees: A caretaker at the SpeckPond Campsite from June 1 to

October 15 collects the $6 pernight fee.

Guides: The best topo is Map 1(Grafton Notch to An droscoggin

Valley) of the official AT maps

for New Hampshire andVermont (Appalachian Trail

Conference, 304/535-6331;www.atctrailstore.org; $12.95 for

NH/VT set). The trail isdescribed (with distances andestimated hiking times) in the

Maine Mountain Guide, 8thedition by AMC (Appalachian

Mountain Club, 617/523-0636;$18.95.Contact: Appalachian TrailConference, 304/535-6331;www.atconf.org. Appalachian

Mountain Club, 617/523-0636;www.outdoors.org.

www.backpacker.com

In the Night Sky:

Finding the Aurora

BorealisThe multicolored arches of light that dance across the night sky in

northern regions are caused by solar winds that send electrically

charged particles into Earths upper atmosphere, where they collidewith gas atoms. This should be another good year for viewing north-

ern lights. In Alaska and northern Canada, the best time to view aurora

is around the equinox, when dark skies and mild weather cooperate.
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Isle RoyaleNational Park,Michigan

A trip to this island in Lake

Superior is well worth the

price of the ferry.

By James Campbell

Backpackers, as a rule,know that the best

things in life require a little ex-

tra effort. So dont be dauntedwhen it comes to planning a

trip to Isle Royale NationalPark. Sure, you have to cross

Lake Superior to get there, butspending the few extra minutessecuring a boat ticket is well

worth the effort.When you get off the ferry,

youll find an island wildernesslittle changed since prehistoric

visitors first traveled here fromthe mainland. Isle Royalescharms include miles of shore-

line and ridgetop trails, moose,river otters, raptors, rare

orchids, and the soul-stirringpresence of the eastern timber

wolf, offspring of a roamingpack that crossed an ice bridgefrom Canada half a century

ago.Stuck up in Lake Superiors

lonely northwest corner, IsleRoyale was established to con-

serve a prime example ofNorthwoods Wilderness. Youllfind an even larger liquid pre-

serve of winsome inland lakes

and clear streams.My favorite long-weekend

hike is the 30-mile FeldtmannLakeIsland Mine Loop, which

takes in plenty of woods andwater in its romp around thesouthwest corner of the island.

Best of all, stretches of theFeldtmann route stick pretty

close to the shoreline, makingthe trail a breezy antidote to

summers heat and humidity.The loop begins at Windigo

ferry stop and cuts southwest

for 9 miles to the FeldtmannLake Campground. On day

two, the trail makes a beelinefor Feldtmann Ridge and the

toughest section of the hike. Besure to climb the observationtower for superb views.

A long, lolling descent bringsyou to Siskiwit Bay. A dip in

Lake Superior is essential,though the icy water will send

you rushing back to your tent.Once night falls, listen for theeerie howling of the islands

resident wolf packs.After climbing to Red Oak

Ridge, youll head back toWindigo via the Greenstone

Ridge Trail. The last leg isdownhill, leaving you plenty ofenergy for the ferry ride home.

Expedition Planner

Drive Time: Duluth: about2 hours (140 miles); St. Paul:

5 hours (295 miles). Ferry rideto Windigo: 2 hours.The Way: From St. Paul, take

I-35 north for 132 miles toDuluth. At Duluth, exit onto

MN 61 north. Continue on MN61 to Grand Portage and follow

the signs to the ferry.Trails: With 165 trail miles to

choose from, Isle Royale offerstrips to fit just about any time

frame. The 30-mile FeldtmannLakeIsland Mine Loop makesa good trek for strong hikers

with a long weekend. For ashorter option, simply turn

around at Feldtmann Lake.Dayhike: The 6.5-mile Hugin-

nin Cove Loop samples theislands forests and waters andoffers opportunities to watch

the local wildlife.Elevation: Feldtmann Ridge

and Red Oak Ridge (1,200 feet)wont give you altitude sick-

ness, but they will test yourresolve.Cant Miss: A long break on

the Feldtmann Ridge observa-tion tower, where you get a

birds-eye view of LakeSuperiors spectacular southern

shoreline.Crowd Control: Go in latespring or early fall to avoid the

summer rush. The park closesfrom October 31 to April 15.

User fee is $15 per person perday.Guides: Hiking Michigan byMike Modrzynski (GlobePequo tFalcon, 800/582-2665;

www.backpacker.com/bookstore; $12.95). Isle

Royale Nationa l Park # 240

map (Trails Illustrated,800/962-1643; www.backpacker.

com/mapstore; $9.95).Walk So ftly: Keep a safe dis-

tance from the island wildlife(see A Respectful Distance,

page 16, and Too Close forComfort, on page 22). Stay on

established trails even if theyremuddy.Contact: Isle Royale NationalPark, 906/482-0984; www.nps.gov/isro. Grand Portage Isle

Royale Transportation Lines,888/746-2305; www.GRAND-

ISLE-ROYALE.com.

Mt. Nebo, Utah

Salt Lake City hikers

are 2 hours away from

sweeping views atop the

Mt. Nebo ridge.By Eric Hansen

Youll gasp when youstep onto Mt. Nebos

10,000-foot-high summit ridge,and it wont just be due to the

thin air. The extensive viewstake in much of central Utah,

and they only get better as yougo higher. Ahead, the Mt. NeboTrail follows the ridge past

sculpted snow cornices and afew clumps of krummholz as it

tiptoes up the serrated crest. Amile later, the path skirts a flat

meadow before the final, 500-foot climb to Nebos SouthSummit.

There, views stretch northeastto the Uinta Mountains, south

to th e 120-miles-distant TusharMountains, and west to Notch

Peak and the Deep Creek

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www.backpacker.com T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA 1716 T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA

Range. To the north, much ofthe length of the Wasatch Frontis visible, but the knife-edge

ridge connecting Nebos threesummits steals the show. That

rugged spines steep limestonebedrock runs to Nebos 11,928-

foot highpoint, a mile away. Abeau tifully symmetrical pyra-mid, Mt. Nebo presides over a

landscape of rock, lingeringearly-summer snow, and green

swaths of sharply angled alpinemeadows.

Early Mormon pioneers gave

the lofty summit its name,meaning Sentinel of God.

Today, that high crest is thecentral feature of a 27,010-acre

wilderness area where elk,moose, cougar, black bear, andmule deer roam. Red-tailed

hawks glide on the thermals; insummer, the bright red of

Indian paintbrush and purple-

blue of lupine accent the mead-ows.

Expedition Planner

Route: About 24 miles of hik-

ing trail are within the wilder-ness, with another 70 nearby.

The authors route followed theNebo Bench and Mt. NeboTrails for a 13-mile round-trip

hike, gaining and losing 5,400feet of elevation. Swinging

through four broad switchbacks

in its first 2 miles, the NeboBench Trail reaches a sage-

brush flat and views of Mt.Nebos skyline 1,500 feet above

the trailhead. Several snow gul-lies near the intersection of the

Nebo Bench and Mt. NeboTrails can be a hazard well intoJuly. Water can be scarce after

lingering snow patches meltoff. Check conditions with

Spanish Fork rangers (see

Contact below). Snow returnsto the high crest in late

September or in October.Beyond the authors route,

the Nebo Bench Trail continuesnorth 7 miles along Mt. Nebos

eastern slopes, traversing highmeadows and fir and aspenstands to the Monument trail-

head. From Nebos west side,the 3.5-mile-long Willow

Canyon Trail offers a short butsteep route to the crest.Drive Time: Salt Lake City:2 hoursThe Way: From Salt Lake City,

take I-15 south 87 miles. Turneast on UT 132 for 5 miles,

then north 3.3 miles on the Mt.Nebo Scenic Loop Road. At that

point, turn northwest, as theLoop Road turns northeast,and drive 1.3 miles, past the

Ponderosa Campground, to thetrailhead. A sign and trail regis-

ter mark a small parking areaon the west side of the road.Dayhike: From the Monumenttrailhead, walk the North PeakTrail 3.25 miles, gaining 2,000

feet, to arrive at its namesakes11,174-foot highpo int.

Elevation: The lowest eleva-tion in the wilderness is 5,200

feet, near Little Birch Creek.The highpoint is Mt. Nebo at11,928 feet.

Crowd Control: You may seea few weekend peak-baggers

on the Nebo Bench, WillowCanyon, and Mt. Nebo Trails.Guides:Hiking Utah by David

Hall ($14.95). Trails Illustrated/

National Geographic Uinta

National Forest #701 map(backpacker.com/mapstore;

$9.95).Walk Softly: Dont camp on

the flat meadow below NebosSouth Summit. Leave the flow-

ers for others to enjoy.Contact: Spanish Fork RangerDistrict, Uinta National Forest,

435/623-0952, ext. 461;www.fs.fed.us/r4/uinta .

OlympicNationalPark,Washington

A trip along Washingtons

Olympic Coast is one whale

of a day at the beach.

By Kristin Hostetter

Theres something aboutthe sound of waves hit-

ting a beach that makes yousleep like a baby. But if you

havent camped on a desertedcoastal beach before, youremissing a whole lot more than

just some great shut-eye.Things like a tidepool filled

with 10-legged starfish andshimmering sea anemones, and

mornings with laughing sea-gulls and the sun dancing onthe waves. Youre missing a

climb up a 50-foot cliff to gazeinto the oceans sapphire water

andif youre luckycatch aglimpse of a whale breaking

A Respectful Distance

Getting close to wildlife may not be the best

idea because you may scare them, causing

them to waste precious energy they need to

survive. If you move in for a better view, dont make a beeline for the

animals, but look down and walk slowly in random directions, as if you

were looking for lost keys. Freeze whenever the animal looks at you.While were on the subject of respecting wildlife, lets talk about

lures and calls. In some parks, calling tapes and other lures are illegal

because they unnecessarily disturb mating animals. Some people suck

on the backs of their hands to attract predators (who think it sounds

like a hurt rabbit) and birds (who think its a bird invading their terri-

tory). If you choose to try this, be ready for what may approach you.
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10/25


the surface a few hundred feetoffshore.

Ive hiked countless beaches,and the Coastal Strip in Wash-

ingtons Olympic National Parkis the place to go. The 60-milestretch from Shi-Shi Beach to

the Hoh River is the longesttract of virgin coastline left in

the Lower 48. Youll hike asection of white-sand beach,

picking your way over ocean-slicked cobblestones and mas-sive, algae-covered logs. When

that section of the beach endsand a headland juts out into

the sea, youll claw your wayup out of the sun and into the

cool cedar forests above. Thenits back down to the beach,often via handy rope ladders.

The wonderful up-and-downpattern continues along the

entire coast, creating a hikethats varied and beautiful. Pay

careful attention to the tides, soyou dont get stranded on thewrong side of a headland.

Expedition Planner

Permits: Permits are free andavailable at ranger stations, visi-

tor centers, and many trail-heads. Call ahead to check onquotas and reservations (see

Contact below).Route: Access to Shi-Shi Beach

is through private property.Contact the Makah Information

Center at 360/645-2201 fordetails. For a shorter hike, startat Third Beach and hike south

to the Hoh River (18 miles).Season: High summer brings

more stable weather and morehikers. Spring and fall can be

wet, but you may have thecoast to yourself.

Guides: Custom Correct mapsNorth Olym pic CoastandSouth Olym pic Coast

(www.olypen.com/lre;$3.25 each) are available at

park visitor centers, rangerstations, or from the Outdoor

Recreation Information Center,206/470-4060;www.nps.gov/ccso/oric.htm. 100 Hikes inWashingtons South Cascades

an d Olympics:Chinook Pass,

White Pass, Goat Rocks, Mt.St.

Helens, Mt.Adams by Ira Spring

and Harvey Manning (TheMoun taineers, 800/553-4453;$14.95).

Contact: Olympic NationalPark Wilderness Information

Center, 360/565-3100;www.nps.gov/olym.

Salmo-PriestWilderness,Washington

You may glimpse one of the

last Selkirk grizzlies.

By Craig Romano

Hiking along Washing-

tons Shedroof DivideTrail, I kept one hand on my

trekking pole and the other onmy binoculars. I needed thepole because this high path

traverses a 5,000-foot-high ridge-line for 22 miles, offering wide

views of the surrounding mead-ows, forests, and ridges of

northeastern Washington. Thebinoculars? The area is knownas the last stronghold for griz-

zlies in the Pacific Northwest,and my hiking partner and I

wanted a glimpse of one.The grizzly is one of the most

endangered mammals in theLower 48, and here it shares theland with another rare mammal,

the woodland caribou. In 1984,Congress helped protect both

animals by designating this north-eastern corner of the state the

Salmo-Priest Wilderness. At morethan 41,000 acres, the wildernessconsists of two long north-south

ridges, with 6,828-foot SalmoMountain crowning its northern

end. About 50 miles of trail crossthe damp old-growth forests,

resplendent alpine meadows, and7,000-foot peaks.

Besides being home to bearand caribou, Salmo-Priest is a

residence for cougar, bobcat,deer, elk, wolverine, badger,

lynx, moose, and bighornsheep. We kept our eyes peeledfrom the moment we left the

trailhead at Pass Creek Pass.A mere 2 miles from the road,

Round Top Mountains viewentices you to stay, but the

scenery and the solitude onlyget better the farther you travelalong the ridgeline. Before long,

something large moving on thetrail ahead startled us. Our

excitement faded as we saw thatthe object of our attention was a

Salmo-Priest backcoun try ranger.He took a reprieve from trail-work to chat with us about his

first grizzly sighting.With new determination, we

continued up the divide for 10more miles. Though we never

saw a grizz, fresh scat, tracks,and debarked trees were preva-lent and convinced us that just

sharing the stunning wildernesswith these mountain monarchs

was excitement eno ugh.

Expedition Planner

Drive Time: Spokane: 2 hours(100 miles).

The Way: From Spokane, takeUS 2 northeast for 35 miles to

WA 211. Follow WA 211 northto the town of Usk. At the junc-

tion of WA 211 and WA 20, takeWA 20 north for 30 miles toTiger. Take WA 31 north for

2 miles. Just before the town of

In the

Night Sky:

Finding

Due North

The last two stars in the Big

Dippers bowl point to the North

Star. Now, draw an imaginary line

from the North Star to the hori-

zon, and you have

your bearings.

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11/25

www.backpacker.com T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA 2120 T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA

Ione, turn east on Sullivan Lake

Road (County Road 9345), andtravel 12 miles to Sullivan Lake

Ranger Station. Forest ServiceRoad 22 begins here, leading to

many of the trailheads.Trails: About 50 miles of trailare within the wilderness, with

another 50 close by. Theauthors route followed the

22-mile Shedroof Divide Trailthrough the heart of the wilder-ness. A scenic 18-mile circuit

(the Salmo Loop) combinesShedroof Divide Trail with

Trails #535 (Salmo Divide Trail)and #506 (Salmo Basin Trail).

The loop spills into Idaho, withthe option of hiking to the firetower at Little Snowy Top

(6,829 feet).Dayhike: The 5.3-mile Noisy

Creek Trail starts at NoisyCreek Campground and offers

views of Sullivan Lake and con-nections to other wildernesstrails.

Elevation: The area ranges

from about 3,400 feet in the

Salmo River Valley to 7,309 feetat Gypsy Mountain.Cant Miss: The view of PriestLake, 1 vertical mile below

Little Snowy Top.Crowd Control: These trailsare lightly visited, but the

Salmo Loop sees a fair num-ber of backpackers from June

until August.Guides: 100 Hikes in the In-

land Northwestby Rich

Landers and Ida Dolphin (TheMoun taineers, 800/553-4453;

www.backpacker.com/bookstore; $14.95).The Forest

Service publishes a goodwilderness map ($3) and offersa free booklet describing trails

(see Contact).Walk Softly: This is bear coun-

try. Hang food and keep aclean camp.Contact: Sullivan Lake District,Colville National Forest,509/446-7500; www.fs.fed.us/

r6/colville/.

EncampmentRiver Trail,Wyoming

When you hike Wyomings

Encampment River Trail, you

wont want to go home.By Eric Hansen

Every time I hike theEncampment River Trail,

my usually brisk pace slows to a

crawl. I linger at rushing streamsand muse over the source and

travels of the gurgling flow. Istop to examine rocks that catch

my eye. In truth, I use anyexcuse to dawdle, because itwould be a terrible mistake to

hurry through this remotecanyon.

The Encampment River beginsin the high country of Colo-

rados Mt. Zirkel Wilderness.From there, it sloshes north for10 miles and meets its name-

sake 16-mile trail in the mead-ows of Commissary Park at the

Wyoming border. After 2 milesof gentle terrain, the river

begins its foaming drop into arugged gorge where rapids andtowering granite walls alternate

with deep pools and shadynooks. The trail, as playful as

the falling water, dips and rollsby the river, and occasionally

climbs hundreds of feet abovewhen sheer cliffs block its roil-ing way. Along part of the river

gorge, the trail passes through

Wyomings smallest wildernessarea, the 10,400-acre Encamp-

ment River Wildern ess.Amid the small wonders of

the canyon, from potholes on amidstream rock to golden eaglesriding the thermals above, one

underlying theme endures: thesteady change in vegetation as

the river rolls out of the moun-tains. The trail, the rivers con-

stant companion for 16 miles,begins in spruce and fir andends among streamside cotton-

woods and sagebrush-coveredfoothills. The healthy popula-

tions of mule deer and elkdepend on the vegetation.

As the trail leaves the last ofthe forest, be on the lookout forprairie falcons working the open

slopes of the lower canyon.Also, watch for the remains of

a mining-era dam, a mile beforethe trails lower end and before

Miners Creek enters from thewest. High above this site, secureon the opposite cliff face, is the

main lambing area of the can-yons resident herd of 50 Rocky

Mountain bighorn sheep.

Expedition Planner

Drive Time: Denver: 3 hours(170 miles); Laramie, WY:

112 hours (80 miles).The Way: From the town of

Encampment, take WY 70 west5 miles, turn south and travel

15.5 miles on Forest ServiceRoad 550, then turn southeastand drive 3 miles on Forest

Service Road 496 to theCommissary Park trailhead , just

In the Night Sky:

Finding the Milky Way

The 200 billion stars, planets, and celestial

features that share our galaxy are called the

Milky Way. Just dont take the view for grant-

ed. As many as two-thirds of the worlds

inhabitants can no longer see the Milky Way,

due to light pollution. For the best view,

choose a summer night with a new moon,

and camp far from urban light sources.

ESCAPES FOR A WEEK OR LONGER
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12/25

T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA 2322 T HE B ES T TR AI LS I N A ME RI CA

before a bridge over the riverand the Colorado bo rder.

Trails: For a 16-mile point-to-point hike, take the well-

maintained Encampment RiverTrail north from the Coloradoborder (Commissary Park) to

the Encampment River Camp-ground 2 miles south of the

town of Encampment. Snowmelts off the lower portion

of the rivers canyon wellbefore it leaves the higherparts, allowing early-season

in-and-out trips from thenorth. A stones throw south

of Commissary Park, a net-work of 150 miles of trail

(including the ContinentalDivide Trail) in the Mt.Zirkel Wilderness b egins.

Dayhike: The Hog ParkCreek and Purgatory Gulch

Trails offer short (2 mileseach) alternatives at either

end of the main trail.Elevation: The Encamp-ment River Trail drops from

8,400 feet at CommissaryPark to 7,200 feet at its

northern end.Cant Miss: The spectacular

upper gorge with its truck-size midstream boulders.Crowd Control: The

Encampment River is a blue-ribbon trout stream, and the

lower portion sees some usefrom dayhiking anglers.

Traffic on the trail is light.Guides:Hiking Wyoming

by Bill Hunger (Falcon Pub-

lishing, 800/582-2665; www.backpacker.com/bookstore;

$15.95). A free Forest Servicemap (see Contact) for the

wilderness provides plenty ofdetail for those sticking to the

trail.Walk Softly: Always givebighorn sheep a wide berth.

Contact: Medicine BowNational Forest, 307/327-5481;

www.fs.fed.us/r2/mbr.

Blue Range,Arizona

Hike out where the

wolves still howl.

By Annette McGivney

I had a different kind ofcampsite in mind fortonight, one smack in the mid-dle of a sunny alpine meadow,encircled by golden-leafed

aspen, bustling with elk in rutand within earshot of the howl-

ing wolves that roam thesemountains. There are plenty of

places like that here inArizonas Blue Range. Instead,I find myself setting down my

pack in a dark, forested bone-yard at the bottom of Grant

Creek Canyon, the only flatspot for miles. All manner of

gnawed ungulate body partsfrom at least half a dozen elkor deer are strewn about. Not

only am I within likely earshotof wolves, it appears I am also

in the middle of their mess hall.(I would find out later that the

boneyard was a rendezvoussite for the Cienega pack lastspring. The alpha male and

female dragged fresh kills tothis spot to feed their pups.)

Even though most hikershead to the picture-postcard-

perfect White Mountains nextdoor, I have always beendrawn to the Blue Range. After

nearly a decade of backpackingtrips in the 174,000-acre wilder-

ness on the Arizona/NewMexico borderhiking from the

9,000-foot-high aspen and fir-forested peaks soggy with snow-

melt down to the oak-coveredfoothills and cactus-studded

canyon bottomsI thought Iknew these mountains. ButI had no idea how much the

endangered Mexican gray wolf(reintroduced in 1998) had

reclaimed this land.If Aldo Leopold were here

today, hed be pleased to seehow well the 30-plus wolvesare doing and how primitive

the Blue Range Primitive Area(a wilderness he helped estab-

lish) remains. In 1908, whilepatrolling the Blue Range dur-

ing the early years of his ForestService career, Leopold had awolf encounter that planted the

seed for a conservation ethicthat helped inspire our nations

environmental movement.In Leopolds famous environ-

mental treatise, A Sand CountyAlmanac, he recalls the daywhen he and his coworkers

were sitting on a canyon bluffand spotted a pack of wolves.

Exterminating wolves, grizzly,and other vermin was part of

their job, so they proceeded topull out their rifles and fill thepack with lead. Leopold shot

the alpha female.We reached the old wolf in

time to watch a fierce greenfire dying in her eyes, hewrote. I realized then, and

have known ever since, thatthere was something new to

www.backpacker.com

ESCAPES FOR A WEEK OR LONGER

Too Close

for Comfort

Dont feed or pet wildlifegetting

too close can be just as dangerous

for you as it is for animals. If an ani-

mal points its ears toward you, gets

visibly nervous, stamps its feet, or

acts aggressively, back off. Scientists

have found that animals tend to flee

when humans get within a certain

distance. Use these numbers as

a guide.

Mountain sheep 165 feet

American kestrel 250 feet

Great blue heron 330 feet

Prairie falcon 525 feet

Mule deer 630 feet

Elk 650 feet

Rough-legged hawk 690 feet

Bald eagle 820 feet

Golden eagle 985 feet
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13/25


me in those eyessomethingknown only to her and the

mountain. I was young thenand full of trigger-itch; I

thought that because fewerwolves meant more deer, thenno wolves would mean a

hunters paradise. But after see-ing the green fire die, I sensed

that neither the wolf nor themountain agreed with such a

view. It took decadesandthousands of deer starvedthrough overpopulationfor

the federal government toagree with Leopolds assertion

that wolves were essential tomaintaining the ecology of

wildlands.There have been rumors of

reintroduced wolves killed by

area ranchers, but it would behard for any animal not to

thrive in these mountains.There is a force of nature here

that emanates from the gurglingof every stream, every canyonbottom, every forested peak,

every pile of bones. As Leopoldfound when he looked into the

wolfs eyes, theres a wild en-ergy hereabouts thats more

powerful than anything human.I feel it as I crouch over mystove boiling water for dinner.

Or is it the presence of wolvesthat is sending a chill down my

spine?A sound unlike any Ive ever

heard rises from the bluffbehind me. Its not the hoot ofan owl, but neither does it

sound like a classic wolf howl.Then again, perhaps it is the

deep, chesty bawl...of wilddefiant sorrow that Leopold

heard in the Blue Range. Thereis still much I have to learn

from these mountains. AsLeopold said, Only the moun-tain has lived long enough to

listen objectively to the howl ofa wolf.

Expedition Planner

The Way: The Blue RangePrimitive Area is located on theArizonaNew Mexico b order,

approximately 15 miles southof Alpine, Arizona, via AZ 191.

Trails: An extensive network oftrails offers a variety of loop

routes with reliable waterthroughout much of the wilder-ness (uncommon in Arizona).

Wolves are most often heard(occasionally seen) at higher

elevations. Starting from theHannagan Meadow trailhead

off AZ 191, you can create aloop route from 10 to 40 mileslong using the Grant Creek,

Upper Grant Creek, and SteepleTrails.

Guides:Exploring Arizonas

Wild Areas by Scott Warren

(The Mountaineers, 800/553-4453; $14.95). A map of theBlue Range Primitive Area can

be purchased from the national

forest (see Contact below)

for $7.Contact: Alpine RangerDistrict, Apache-SitgreavesNational Forest, 928/339-4384;

www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf.

San Pedro RiverTrail, Arizona

Shady hiking and cool waters

make the San Pedro River an

oasis for desert trekkers.

By Paul Bogard

If you think that findingwater in the Arizona desert

is rare, youll think the SanPedro River is a bona fide mira-

cle. Whats miraculous about it?For starters, the San Pedro is

the Southwests last remainingfree-flowing river, and it servesup 40-odd miles of lush stream-

side hiking in the heart of a

hot, sandy desert.The San Pedro River starts innorthern Mexico and flows

north through Arizona, whereits protected within the SanPedro Riparian National

Conservation Area (NCA). Theriver is perennial, but its flow is

sometimes only a trickle.From my first steps along the

River Trail on a quiet winter

morning, I had the trail

indeed, it seemed, the wholeNCAto myself. In theory, theRiver Trail runs parallel to the

stream as it winds its way alongthe San Pedro Valley floor,between the Huachuca

Mountains to the west and theMule Mountains to the east. But

in some places, the stream cov-ers the trail and youre bound

to get your feet wet. You canfollow the trail in and along the

San Pedro except at times ofextremely high water, following

heavy rainfall. The best hikingis in winter, with steady water

levels and comfortable temper-atures, or in spring, with the

arrival of hundreds of migratorybirds.

The area along the river is

one of the last remnants of anenvironment that once existed

near free-flowing streamsthroughout the Southwest.

Gooddings willows andFremont cottonwood s growhere in green profusion, and

more than 350 bird speciesIspied green kingfishers,

Mississippi kites, and grayhawks, to name a feweither

visit or inhabit the conservationarea. Local residents like ring-tail cats, coatimundis, and

javelinas also make regularappearances.

This hike is best undertakenwithout concern for speed or

distance. My plan was to hike30 miles, through the Narrows,all the way to the northern end

of the conservation area. Butafter a stop-and-go day watch-

ing for wildlife and petroglyphs(the river region contains more

than 250 recorded prehistoricand historic sites), I realized ittakes more than a weekend to

see this desert miracle.

Expedition Planner

Drive Time: The San PedroRiparian National Conservation

Area is 112 hours (75 miles)southeast of Tucson.

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14/25


The Way: From Tucson, takeI-10 east and then AZ 90 south

to Sierra Vista. From SierraVista, take either Charleston

Road or AZ 90 east about15 miles to trailheads on theriver, or go south on AZ 92 and

east on Hereford Road to theHereford Bridge trailhead.

Trails: The most popular sec-tion of the River Trail is the

8-mile segment betweenCharleston Road and FairbankTownsite. For a longer hike

with more solitude, start atthe Hereford Bridge trailhead

(8 miles from the Mexican bor-der) and hike north for up to

32 miles one way. A $2 back-country fee is required (seeContact below).

Dayhike: For an easy out-and-back trip to The Narrows,

where the San Pedro squeezesbetween two hills, hike down-

stream from the CharlestonRoad trailhead (3 miles round-trip). Continue through The

Narrows to extend the routeup to 8 miles one way.

Elevation: At the Mexicanborder, the elevation is 4,300

feet. It drops to 4,000 feet atFairbank Townsite, and bottomsout at 3,600 feet at the northern

edge of the NCA.Cant Miss: Taking off your

shoes and splashing throughthe creek on a warm winter

day.Crowd Control: Spring week-ends (the end of April and

beginning of May) draw themost crowds, as birders come

from all over the country. Goin fall or winter, or midweek,

to avoid the crowds. Also avoidthe busy trails near the San

Pedro House (a nonprofit visi-tor center on AZ 90).Guides: The San Pedro River:A

Discovery Guide by RoseannBeggy Hanson (University of

Arizona Press, 800/426-3797;www.backpacker.com/

bookstore; $17.95). USGS topoFairban k Town site.

Walk Softly: There are numer-

ous historic and prehistoricarchaeological sites in the area.

Look, but dont touch.Contact: San Pedro Project

Office, Bureau of LandManagement, 520/458-3559;www.az.blm.gov.

Furnace Creek,Death Valley,California

Time spent in Californias

Death Valley can be a life-

enhancing experience.

By Jordan Rane

Never mind the parks

name, the desolate sur-roundings, or the fact that it

holds the record for the conti-nents hottest temperature(134F on June 10, 1913). Just

filing a backcountry permit atDeath Valleys Furnace Creek

headquarters can be its own

mildly intimidating rite of pas-sage.

Im not sure where [the per-mits] are, the ranger at the desk

confessed. Uh, there haventbeen too many people needing

them. Most folks here stay pret-ty close to their cars.

But persistence paid off, and I

soon learned this truth: Headinto the park with a reliable

vehicle, good maps, plenty ofwater, and lots of respect for the

forbidding Mojave Desert andyoull experience a wild land-scape most visitors dont get to

see. Death Valley includes morethan 3 million acres of lonely

mountain ranges, salt flats, sanddunes, de siccated lakebeds, and

ancient canyons autographedwith the odd petroglyph. It con-tains the lowest spot in the

Western Hemisphere, a snowypeak topping 11,000 feet, and

boundless desert hiking possibil-itiestemperature permitting.

A hike to put at the top ofyour list is the CottonwoodMarble Canyon Loop in the

Panamint Range, near StovepipeWells. Dont go anywhere near

this 26-mile, three-canyon routeafter April or before October,

when temperatures are danger-ously high. But in winter, youllhave your own vast, temperate

planet. Crumbling brown peaks,jagged chasms, and sheer cliff-

sides spiked with horizontal-growing cacti accompany youthrough this utterly deserted,

natural trail.Most of the route is easy to

follow, but I had to get out thetopos to cross from Cottonwood

to Marble Canyon via DeadhorseCanyon. Highlights of the jour-

ney include the narrow slots ofMarble Canyon, the wildflower-

and tree-lined springs ofCottonwood Creek (wh ere youcan refill water stores and spot

bighorn sheep), and the sepia-tone landscape fading to a silent

black under blinding stars.Death Valleys biggest com-

modity remains its immeasura-ble silence and stillness. Justknowing theres a place in the

world this huge, quiet, anduninh abited is a life-affirming

experience.

Expedition Planner

Drive Time: Death Valley isin eastern California, about

5 hours (280 miles) northeastof Los Angeles and 2 hours

(125 miles) west of Las Vegas.The Way: From Las Vegas, take

US 95 north for 90 miles toLathrop Wells, and head southon NV 373/CA 127 for 25 miles

to the park junction at CA 190.In southern California, take

US 15 north to Baker anddrive north on CA 127. Proceed80 miles to CA 190 and head

west to the Furnace CreekVisitor Center. Continue 24 miles

on CA 190 to the StovepipeWells ranger station and the 12-

mile access road to the MarbleCanyon trailhead (four-wheel-drive required for access road).

Trails: The parks few main-tained trails are mostly designed

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for short dayhikes. Longertreks, such as the

CottonwoodMarble CanyonLoop, combine cross-country

hiking with unmarked use trailsand four-wheel-drive roads. Ifyou arent confident about your

navigational skills, do an out-and-back hike up Cottonwood

Canyon (where water is avail-able).Dayhike: For the best 1-dayadventure, hike up MarbleCanyons narrow ravine and

turn around at DeadhorseCanyon (10 miles round-trip).

Bring your own drinking water.Elevation: Badwater Basin is

the lowest point in the park(and Western Hemisphere) at282 feet below sea level.

Telescope Peaks 11,049-footsummit is the high point.

Cant Miss: Stargazing inan empty Marble Canyon

amphitheater.Crowd Control: Most visitorsdont stray far from the park

roads, leaving miles of expan-sive desert backcountry empty.

Guides: The Explorers Guid e

to Dea th Valley by T. Scott

Bryan (University Press ofColorado, 720/406-8849; www.backpacker.com/bookstore;

$22.50). USGS topos East of

Sand Flat, Cottonw ood Canyon ,

and Harris Hill.

Walk So ftly: The desert is vul-

nerable and the trails are few.Reduce impact by avoidingfragile soil crusts, vegetation,

and animal burrows. Considertraveling only in small groups.

Contact: Death Valley NationalPark, 760/786-2331; www.

nps.gov/deva.

Trinity AlpsWilderness,

CaliforniaWildflower meadows and a

remote mountain lake await

hikers off the beaten track in

the Trinity Alps.

By Dennis Lewon

If theres an afterlife, then

somewhere up above aminer named Bob is laughing.

In the 19th century, Bob stakeda claim to a small gold mine

deep in the backcountry ofwhats now the Trinity AlpsWilderness in northern

California. The outpost becameknown as Bobs Farm, which

surely represents a bit of fron-tier humor: Bob had squeezed

his cabin into a steep, narrowravine completely unsuitable

for farming. The rudimentarypath carved by the prospectorbecame known as Bobs Farm

Trail. And thats why heslaughing.

The pastoral, gentle-soundingname fooled me the first timeI saw it on a map. If Id looked

more closely at the contourlines, I would have appreciated

the joke. Though less than5 miles long, the steep,

manzanita-choked Bobs FarmTrail is one of the most difficult

routes in the Trinity Alps. Buttheres one very compellingreason to hike it (besides brag-

ging rights): Bobs Farm Trail isthe crucial link in a weeklong

loop that culminates in GrizzlyLake, quite possibly the crown

jewel of this overlooked range.Perched on a glacier-gouged

shelf below the granite ram-parts of 9,002-foot ThompsonPeak, with a 100-foot waterfall

pouring from its sheer outletand dizzying vistas reflected in

its smooth surface, Grizzly Lakeis as good as it gets in themountains. You have two

choices when it comes toreaching Grizzly. The first is a

sneak route via the China

Spring Trail. Its a steep grind,but the path will land you at

the base of that sublime water-fall in about 7 miles.

But its the other route that

deserves a week of your time.From Hobo Gulch, the North

Fork Trail hugs the North ForkTrinity River on an 18-mile jour-

ney that unfolds slowly, like agood book you dont want to

end. The first few chapters rollalong under a shady forest offir, pine, and incense cedar,

dipping over lush streamsidebenches and passing through a

wild and lonely wilderness. Thefirst time I hiked the North ForkTrail, I nearly walked headlong

into a mountain lion loungingon the path.

You could easily spend a

www.backpacker.com

Walk Like a FoxIdeally, to spot wildlife, plan your hike after a heavy rain so soggy

leaves and twigs wont crackle beneath your feet. Or learn to walk

like a fox:

1. Lower the outside edge of your foot to the ground. Beforeputting weight on it, feel for sticks or stones, and either brush

them aside or step in a clear spot.2. Weight the edge, then roll onto the ball. Next, slowly

weight the entire sole of your foot so you compress sticks

and leaves quietly.

3. Place your fullweight on your foot.

4. Repeat with yourother foot.
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16/25

T HE B ES T TR AI LS I N A ME RI CA 3130 T HE B ES T T RA IL S I N A ME RI CA

week exploring the North ForkTrail and Grizzly Lake, but to

hike the longer loop (about46 miles) and pay your respects

to Bobs Farm, hang a right onthe Rattlesnake Creek Trail andfirst visit Papoose Lake. Youll

pass a museums worth of min-ing relics before topping out in

a secluded cirque below 8,933-foot Mt. Hilton.

Whichever route you choose,youll end up on the path toGrizzly Lake. Over the last few

miles, the trail climbs steeplyout of the ferny canyon bottom

and abruptly dead-ends in aseries of flower-filled meadows

where you can put your feetup and contemplate the water-fall that is pouring from the

sky. Grizzly Lake is up there,out of sight above the basins

headwall, and to get there allyou have to do is claw your

way up the Grizzly Scramble(its not technical, but the lasthalf mile is so precipitous the

Forest Service wont actuallycall it a trail). Be sure to

explore the upper cirque,where a small remnant of the

Trinity Alpss last glacier hangsabove the lake.

In the evening, find a seat

near the lip of the waterfall andwatch the sun go down on a

wild swath of mountains little-changed since old Bob first set

foot here. You might just hearhis chuckle in the roaring cas-cade, though by now youll

realize hes laughing with you,not at you.

Drive Time: San Francisco:512 hours

The Way: From Redding onI-5, drive west 61 miles on

CA 299 to the turn-off for OldHelena (a largely abandonedmining town) and turn right

(north) on County Road 421.Follow signs to Hobo Gulch

trailhead, 16 miles away onunpaved Forest Service Road

34N07Y.Trails: The authors loop com-bines the Rattlesnake Creek

Trail (13 miles), the Bobs FarmTrail (5 miles), and the North

Fork Trail (18.5 miles), with aminimum amount of backtrack-

ing. Total distance is about46 miles.Elevation: The trailhead is at

2,600 feet, while Grizzly Lake isat 7,100 feet.

Guides:Hiking Californias

Trinity Alps Wilderness by

Dennis Lewon (Falcon Guides,$18.95). USFS Trinity Alps

Wilderness map ($6.44; see

Contact).Contact: Weaverville Ranger

District, Shasta-Trinity NationalForest, 530/623-2121; www.

r5.fs.fed.us/shastatrinity.

Trap Hills,Michigan

This charming, craggy

land is so little known that

you wont find descriptions

in guidebooks.By Eric Hansen

Imagine a ridgeline hike

with vistas stretching50 miles and more, providingsome of the grandest views in

the Upper Midwest. Now imag-ine enjoying such splendor, or

maybe a sunset, from rock bal-conies so quiet and deserted

the moss doesnt show any

boot scuff marks.Welcome to the Trap Hills,

one of the hidden gems ofMichigans Up per Peninsula

backcountry. Scan the Internet,and clues to this treasure

emerge: rare plant surveys, awilderness-preservation groupchampioning the Trap Hills,

and clifftop photos taken bymembers of the local North

Country Trail chapter.

To Upper-Midwest hikersfamiliar with the regions pathsand topography, the Trap Hillsridge might remind you of the

Escarpment Trail in MichigansPorcupine Mountains or Min-

nesotas Oberg Mountain onthe Superior Hiking Trail. But

to equal the Trap Hills I experi-enced one October, youd haveto make those other ridges

20 stunning miles long, scatterview points all along their

length, and make the largeparking lots disappear. Youd

also have to remove all thehikers, because I spent 4 days

hiking the Traps without seeinganothe rs footp rints.

Halfway through a 28-mile

traverse of this remote ridge-line, I paused on a high ledge,

looked west, and spotted amassive granite face in the dis-

tanceone from which Idwatched the sunrise the daybefore. By this point in the

hike, I was used to broadviews from the parade of rock

outcrops. But this one tran-scended the visual, bringing

together the best moments ofthe trip into one gloriouspanorama. Lake Superior, a full

eighth of Earths fresh water,glistened a perfect blue to the

north, its waters nudging upagainst the broad-shouldered

Porcupine Mountains. Deep-blue skies wisped with thinclouds stretched to the south-

west, past Lake Gogebic toWolf Mountain. Golden aspen

lined the streams on the valleyfloor below. To the south, the

endless forests of the UpperPeninsula, with their amberand bronze hardwoods and

evergreen pines, swept to thehorizon.

Huge views are only part ofthe Trap Hills story, however.Grouse, sometimes 20 or more,

exploded out of pineries as Ipassed. Toads the size of my

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17/25


pinky fingernail hopped alongthe trail, celebrating a warm

afternoon. A bald eagle soaredoverhead, riding thermals rising

from south-facing cliffs. Mag-nificent stands of mature maplelined the trail on the tall bluffs

above Cascade Creek. In theevenings, owls hooted and

coyotes yelped.Theres a mystique about the

Trap Hills, a whiff of theunknown and a feeling thatexploration reaps rich rewards.

The open, older forests inviteoff-trail rambling and discovery,

as do the moist nooks andcrannies of the Gleason Creek

and Whiskey Hollow Creekgorges. Rock ledges abound,providing sun-splashed perches

to those willing to climb. I sawa dozen overlooks Id gladly

spend the night on, each a pri-vate veranda with perfect sun-

rise and sunset views.A few years back, I com-

mented on the stunning views

to a fire-tower ranger. He swepthis arm across the horizon and

replied, Yep, after this, any-thing else will seem like a

basement apartment.I had a similar feeling after

sleeping on the high ledges in

Trap Hills, finding the space toponder broad qu estions like,

Arent those bumps on theeastern horizon the (60-mile

distant) Huron Mountains? Or,How did fairy bells (a rareplant) become isolated here in

the Porkies, in the Black Hillsof South Dakota, and in the

Cascades of Oregon andWashington? Great questions

demand answers, so Ill have toreturn, with binoculars, topos,

and lots of time.

Expedition Planner

The Way: From Bergland,Michigan, at the north end of

Lake Gogebic, drive 10 milesnorth on M-64, then 4.5 miles

south on old M-64 to theGogebic Ridge Trail.Route: The authors 28-mile

hike started at the GogebicRidge Trail on old M-64, turned

a half-mile east to the NorthCountry Trail (NCT), and fol-

lowed that path east to OldVictoria (a restored historicmining village that features an

Adirondack-style trail shelter).Some of the western segments

of this section of the NCT arefaint, but navigable thanks to

blue diamond markers. Shuttlerides: On tran, 906/ 884-2006;check for availability.

Guides: The best sourcearound is the Web site of the

Peter Wolfe Chapter of theNorth Country Trail Association

(www.northcountrytrail.org/pwf/). It features topographicaltrail maps, elevation profiles,

trail notes, conditions, watersources, and phenology. USGS

quads include Bergland NE,Matchwood NW, Oak Bluff, and

Rockland ($4.95).Contact: Ottawa NationalForest, 906/932-1330;

www.fs.fed.us/r9/ottawa/.

Black CreekNationalRecreationTrail,Mississippi

Youll have a hard time

keeping track of all the critters

along this wild pathway.

By Marty Tessmer

When the votes were

tallied in BackpackerReader Ratings, the outcomeincluded a hap py coincidence.

You picked the Black CreekNational Recreation Trail as

Mississippis best hiking desti-nation, a place Id just visited.

For those who have yet todiscover this southern gem,take my word for it: The Black

Creek Trail is worth your time.The 41-mile path can be as

wild as a feral hog, yet its onlya stones throw from NewOrleans, Biloxi, and Mobile.

The h ikers-only trail follows

Black Creek, a Wild and Sceniccanoeing mecca (best paddledin fall and spring), through the

coastal plains of DeSoto Na-tional Forest. The low-countryhiking wont tax you with any

serious ups and downs, butthere are other challenges. Just

try to track all the wildlife inthe creek bottoms, piney

uplands, oxbow lakes, andswamps. Each zone has unique

plants and critters, includinglongleaf pines, lush hardwoods,

beavers, blue herons, red foxes,and wood ducks.

The best section of trail is the10-mile segment that snakes

through the 5,000-acre BlackCreek Wilderness. From thesegments start at MS 29, I

hiked through a sun-dappledcanopy of lodgepole pines,

magnolias, oaks, and dogwoods(good fall colors and great

spring flowers), then rambledfor several miles across shallowdrainages and modest ridges.

Good backcountry campsitesabound. Choose between hard-

wood stands and pineyuplands.

After crossing Beaverda m

Creek via the MS 29 bridge, Idescended into the Black Creek

floodplain. Here, the trail fol-lows a Native American travel

corridor used for thousands ofyears. Ascending from the

floodplain to the top of multi-colored bluffs, I watched thecreek morph from wide placid

stream to narrow frenetic chuteand back again.

Creekside hiking provides agreat opportunity to keep an

eye out for wildlife, or just tofind a cozy sandbar, close youreyes, and listen to all the crit-

ters around you.

Expedition Planner

Drive Time: The Black CreekWilderness is about 1 hour

(50 miles) from Hattiesburg,Mississippi. The trail is less than

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18/25


3 hours from Jackson, NewOrleans, and Mobile.

The Way: From Hattiesburg,take US 98 east for 20 miles to

New Augusta and turn southonto MS 29. Proceed 19 milesto the Black Creek Wilderness

trailhead and parking area.Trails: The main artery is the

Black Creek National RecreationTrail, with 10 of its 41 miles in

the Black Creek Wilderness. Doan end-to-end hike with a carshuttle, or a 20-mile out-and-

back trek through the wilder-ness area (go south from the

wilderness trailhead).Dayhike: For the best creek-

side hiking, start at the trail-head on MS 29 and trek south-east into the wilderness. Go

5 miles and turn around, or usea car shuttle to hike 10 miles

one way.Elevation: The creek bottoms

out near 100 feet, and theupland ridges rise to 270 feet.Cant Miss: An afternoon siesta

on a quiet sandbar, listening tothe Black Creek slip by and

watching a blue heron wingoverhead.

Crowd Control: The trail israrely crowded. October

through April is cool, sunny,and relatively insect-free. Wearblaze orange clothing during

deer-hunting season (Novemberto January).

Guides: USGS topos Brooklyn,Janice, and Bond Pond. ABlack Creek Trail map is alsoavailable from the DeSotoNational Forest (see Contact

below; $5). Hiking Mississippi:A Guide to Trails and Natural

Areas by Helen McGinnis (Uni-versity Press of Mississippi,

800/737-7788; www.backpacker.com/bookstore; $15.95).Walk Softly: Be sure to camp

at least 200 feet from thestream so you dont contami-

nate the water.Contact: DeSoto Ranger Dis-

trict, DeSoto National Forest,601/928-4422; www.fs.fed.us/r8/miss.

In the Night Sky:

Finding CometsThese dirty snowballs are ice cores falling toward the sun, leaving

behind a tail of dust particles that can reach 6,000 miles long. A comet

visible to the naked eye shows up every 5 years or so; still, comets that

astronomers dont know about can be out there, lurking on the far side of

the sun and ready to streak across the sky.

Anaconda-PintlerWilderness,Montana

This primitive wilderness

has changed little sinceLewis and Clark came

through 200 years ago.

By Michael Lanza

Ithink the trail must be

just up ahead. Mywife Pennys voice flutters past

me like an errant scrap ofpaper. Below me, she and our

friend Kris Karlson clamber

over deadfall and throughbrush up a steep slope towardthe saddle where Im scouringour map, which suddenly

seems less detailed than Idlike. Weve spent 30 minutes

bushwhacking through sub-alpine forest trying to relocate

the Continental Divide Trail(CDT), which we lost amid amaze of rogue camper foot-

paths beside Warren Lake.

Pennys sense of directionproves true as a compass nee-dle. After a bit of scouting,

were back on the CDT. Butour diversionary romp beginsto solidify my impression that

the Anaconda-Pintler Wilder-ness remains true to its histori-

cal reputation. The mountainshere in southwestern Montana,

near the Idaho border, have

been losing people for cen-turies.

Two hundred years ago,even Meriwether Lewis and

William Clark had difficultycrossing the Continental Divide.

They believed the MissouriRiver would lead them to thecontinents spine at a place

where a mere half-day portagewould deposit them in the

Columbia River drainage. Buton August 12, 1805, when

Lewis crested the divide justsouth of here, he sawimmence ranges of high

mountains still to the West ofus with their tops partially cov-

ered with snow.The land today looks little

different. In 1937, the U.S.

Forest Service declared ita primitive area, citing the

almost complete absence ofmans influence. In 1964,

Anaconda-Pintler was deemedsufficiently wild to merit inclu-

sion in the inaugural class of54 federal wilderness areas cre-ated by the Wilderness Act.

Named for the AnacondaMountains and Charles Ellsworth

Pintler, a 19th-century settler inthe Big Hole Valley, the wilder-

ness comprises 159,086 acresof the Beaverhead, Bitterroot,and Deerlodge National

Forests. Half a dozen peakstop 10,000 feet and numerous

others rise above 9,000, theirslopes and valleys home tomountain goat and lion, elk,

moose, deer, wolverine, andblack bear.

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Not many people find theirway here. On this Labor Day

weekend, we find just threevehicles at the trailhead. Two

sunrises into our 4-day loop,weve hiked through cool pineforests, strolled beside creeks

coursing with ice water, tra-versed an exposed talus ridge

overlooking sweeping glacialcirques, and slept beneath a

cold sky liberally salted withstars. Yet weve passed onlyfour backpackers.

Its easy to see why Lewisand Clark had trouble getting

over the Bitterroots, Pennymuses, gazing west at the

daunting wall of mountains.Were straddling the divide atan unnamed pass beside an

unnamed 9,800-foot summit.Pikas chirp at us from the talus.

Moments earlier, five mule deerbounded away.

To our right, the groundpeels away through cliff bandsand meadows of wind-blown

grasses to Rainbow Lake,where waters spill into Fishtrap

Creek to begin a long journeyto the Atlantic Ocean. To our

left, Martin Lake tumbles into

the Falls Fork of Rock Creek tobegin an impressive trek to the

Pacific.We stop for lunch beside

Johnson Lake. A few hikerspass by, the first in 2 days.

Lounging on sun-splashedrocks, I ponder the anomaly ofbackpacking over a Labor Day

weekend amid 10,000-footpeaks along the Continental

Divide and encountering virtu-ally no one.

Perhaps some higher hikingpower long ago ordained that

this majestic stretch of NorthAmericas backbone shouldremain forever anonymous,

largely beyond view of pavedroads, guarded like a valued

secret. Maybe this convolutionof skyscraping peaks and maze-

like valleys in the northernRockies suffers only the mostintrepid explorers. I cant com-

pletely explain it. But I canenjoy it.

Lewis and Clark bemoanedtheir tribulations in crossing

these mountains 200 years ago,but I firmly believe that if theywere around today, theyd

appreciate the fact that a fewplaces like the Anaconda-

Pintler Wilderness remain.

Expedition Planner

The Way: Drive 90 minutessouth from Missoula or an hour

west from Anaconda. Accesstrailheads via US 93 from the

west, MT 43 from the east andsouth, and MT 38 and MT 1

from the north.Trails: The wilderness areahas 280 miles of trail, including

a 45-mile stretch of theContinental Divide Trail. The

authors 4-day loop from theCarpp Creek trailhead followed

the Carpp Creek and HilineTrails to the CDT and returnedvia the Hiline and Carpp Lake

Trails.

Guides: Both the USFSAnaconda-Pintler Wilderness

map (1:50,000 scale; $6) andHiking the Ana conda-Pintler

Wilderness by Mort Arkava(self-published, Corvallis, MT;

$14.95) are available from localUSFS offices (see Contactbelow).

Contact: Phillipsburg RangerDistrict, Beaverhead -Deerlodge

National Forest, 406/859-3211;www.fs.fed.us/r1/bdnf/.

RubyMountains,Nevada

The Ruby Crest Trail offers

mountain goats, bighorns,

bluebellsand cowboys.

By Steve Howe

From a narrow slot in theridgetop, I can see the

emerald oasis of Overland Lake

shimmering in its steep-sidedbowl far below. To the north,

shattered ridgelines swoopbetween polished granite

cirques. The view is like a cal-endar scene from Switzerland,only the arid plains encircling

the distant horizon remind methat this is the heart of the

Great Basin Desert.These are the Ruby Moun-

tains, an 11,000-foot range that juts like a skyscraping miragefrom the sagebrush flats of

Nevada. The Rubies were

named by early miners, whomisidentified the areas reddish

garnets; but for all the beautyof those rocks, its the glaciated

alpine landscape thats the truegem here.

Jen and I are 3 days into theRuby Crest Trail, a 43-mile trekalong the gabled ridge of this

craggy range. Weve hikedthrough meadows smeared pur-

ple with bluebells and lupine,seen bighorn sheep and moun-

tain goats peer down on usfrom the heights, jumped acrosscrystal-clear streams, and skirted

lakes so blue they seemed likemirrors into heaven.

Our trailhead was LamoilleCanyon, the Rubies major gate-

way, so we encountered plenty

of anglers and horseback ridersin the first few miles. Central

Nevada is also SagebrushRebellion country, a land where

cowboys rule and backpackersare cultural curiosities. We

caught a few searching looks,but for the most part, evengrizzled cowpokes nodded a

hospitable howdy from atoptheir quarter horses, with wrin-

kled eyes that looked right

through us, and smiles thatbelied the six-guns on theirhips.

Trail traffic vanished once we

crossed 10,450-foot Liberty Passand hiked beyond Liberty Lake.

Standing atop Liberty Pass,looking southward at the end-less stony overlap of ridge and

valley, you know youre at ajumping-off point. When you

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20/25


step forward, committing toparts rarely traveled, the deci-

sion feels like the separationstage of a rocket. Your excess

payloadthe workaday stressthat fueled your first milesdrops away like an empty

booster, and you surge out ofcivilizations orbit, entering the

90,000-acre Ruby MountainWilderness.

Aside from wildlife, scenery,big solitude, and cowboy cul-ture, the Rubies also offer a lot

of wind. These mountains rendthe sky, cutting into the jet

stream like a stone arrowhead.We tasted the full force of the

wind yesterday, as we climbedover Wines Peak on the airy,waterless stretch to Overland

Lake. All day long, gales thun-dered in our ears and fluttered

our windshirts to a high-pitched hum, but the payoff

was spectacular, with viewsfrom California to Utah.

The rough-legged hawks

loved the bluster. They wereeverywhere, big as eagles,

surfing motionless above thesummits and spiraling into

talus-brushing d ives. Marching

tortoiselike beneath my pack, Iwished I were a hawk, but was

equally glad I wasnt born ajackrabbit.

It was a long day of ups anddowns, so today is for rest and

wandering unladen. We spottedbighorn sheep here yesterday,on the ridges above O verland

Lake. Sure enough, theirscraped-out daybeds are every-

where. We sneak quietlythrough the timberline groves,

but our quarry has moved on,following the faint game trails

that twist through the high out-crops of King Peak.

Now evening, we enjoy an

early dinner made tastier by thedays exercise. By 7, my spouse

is snoring like a drunken sailor,so I wander the shoreline of

Overland Lake as sunset playson the cliffs

Documents

BEST TRAILS IN AMERICA