Best Climber

8/12/2019 Best Climber

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Reinhold Messner (1a)Reinhold Messner(born 17 September 1944) is amountaineer,adventurer,explorer,

andauthorfrom theItalianautonomous province ofSouth Tyrol,"whose astonishing feats on

Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatestclimberin

history."[1]

He is renowned for making the first solo ascent ofMount Everestwithout supplemental oxygen and

for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen "eight-thousanders"(peaks over 8,000 metres

(26,000 ft) above sea level). He is the author of at least 63 books (in German, 19702006), many of

which have been translated into other languages.

Biography[edit]

Born inBrixen(Bressanone),Italy,Messner is a native speaker ofGermanandItalian,and also

fluent in English.[2]He grew up inVillnand spent his early years climbing in theAlpsand fell in love

with theDolomites.His father, Josef Messner, was a teacher. He was also very strict and sometimes

severe with Reinhold. Josef led Reinhold to his first summit at the age of five. Reinhold had eight

brothers and one sister; he later climbed with his brother Gnther and made Arctic crossings with his

brother Hubert.

When Reinhold was 13, he began climbing with his brotherGnther,age 11. By the time Reinhold

and Gnther were in their early twenties, they were among Europe's best climbers.

[3]

Since the 1960s, Messner, inspired byHermann Buhl,was one of the first and most enthusiastic

supporters ofalpine stylemountaineering in theHimalayas,which consisted of climbing with very

light equipment and a minimum of external help. Messner considered the usualexpedition

style("siege tactics") disrespectful toward nature and mountains.

Messner's first major Himalayan climb in 1970, the unclimbed Rupal face ofNanga Parbat,turned

out to be a tragic success. Both he and his brother Gnther reached the summit, but Gnther died
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two days later on the descent of the Diamir face. Reinhold lost six toes, which had become badly

frostbitten during the climb and required amputation.[3]Reinhold was severely criticized for persisting

on this climb with less experienced Gnther.[4]The 2010 movieNanga ParbatbyJoseph Vilsmaieris

based on his account of the events.[5]

While Messner andPeter Habelerwere noted for fast ascents in the Alps of theEigerNorth Wall,standard route (10 hours) and Les Droites (8 hours), his 1975Gasherbrum Ifirst ascent of a new

route took three days. This was unheard of at the time.

In the 1970s, Messner championed the cause for ascending Mount Everest without supplementary

oxygen, saying that he would do it "by fair means" or not at all.[6]In 1978, he reached the summit of

Everest with Habeler.[6]This was the first time anyone had been that high without bottled oxygen and

Messner and Habeler proved what certain doctors, specialists, and mountaineers thought

impossible. He repeated the feat, without Habeler, from theTibetanside in 1980, during the

monsoon season. This was Everest's first solo summit.

In 1978, he made a solo ascent of the Diamir face ofNanga Parbat.In 1986, Messner became thefirst to complete all fourteeneight-thousanders(peaks over 8,000 metres above sea

level).[7]Messner has crossedAntarcticaon skis, together with fellow explorerArved Fuchs.He has

written over 60 books[8]about his experiences, a quarter of which have been translated. He was

featured in the 1984 filmThe Dark Glow of the MountainsbyWerner Herzog.

Messner today carries on a diversified business related to hismountaineeringskills. From 1999 to

2004, he held political office as aMember of the European Parliamentfor the Italian Green Party

(Federazione dei Verdi). He was also among the founders ofMountain Wilderness,an

internationalNGOdedicated to the protection of mountains worldwide.

In 2004 he completed a 2,000-kilometre (1,200 mi) expedition through theGobi desert.He nowmainly devotes himself to theMessner Mountain Museum,of which he is the founder.

Jerzy Kukuczka
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Eight-thousanders[edit]

Kukuczka is widely considered among the climbing community to be one of the best high-altitude

climbers in history. He ascended all fourteen mountains in just under eight years, a shorter time than

any climber before (Reinhold Messner included, whom it took 16 years) or since. In the process,

Kukuczka established ten new routes and climbed four summits in winter. He was one of an elite

group of Polish Himalayan mountaineers who specialized in winter ascents. He established 9 new

routes on the eight-thousanders, 4 of which were winter routes (compared to 6 new routes of

Messner's, none of them during winter).

Year Location Mountain Route Comments

1979 Nepal Lhotse West Face Normal Route

1980 Nepal Mount Everest South Pillar New Route

1981 Nepal MakaluVariation to Makalu

La/North-West RidgeNew Route,Alpine Style,Solo.

1982 Pakistan Broad Peak West Spur Normal Route, Alpine Style.
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1983 Pakistan Gasherbrum II South-East Spur New Route, Alpine Style.

1983 Pakistan Gasherbrum I South-West Face New Route, Alpine Style.

1984 Pakistan Broad PeakTraverse of North, Middle

and Main SummitsNew Route, Alpine Style.

1985 Nepal Dhaulagiri North-East SpurNormal Route, First Winter

Ascent.[1]

1985 Nepal Cho Oyu South-East PillarNew Route, First Winter Ascent,

Second Summit Team.

1985 Pakistan Nanga Parbat South-East Pillar New Route.

1986 Nepal Kanchenjunga South-West FaceNormal Route, First Winter

Ascent.

1986 Pakistan K2 South Face New Route.

1986 Nepal Manaslu North-East Face New Route, Alpine Style.

1987 Nepal Annapurna I North FaceNormal Route, First Winter

Ascent.

1987 China Shisha Pangma West RidgeNew Route, Alpine Style, Ski

Descent.
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1988 NepalAnnapurnaEast

SummitSouth Face New Route, Alpine Style.

He climbed all summits except for Mount Everest without use of supplemental oxygen.

Kukuczka died attempting to climb the unclimbed South Face ofLhotseinNepalon 24 October

1989. Leading a pitch at an altitude of about 8,200 meters on a 6 mm secondhand rope he had

picked up in a market inKathmandu(according toRyszard Pawowski,Kukuczka's climbing partner

on the tragic day, the main single rope used by the team was too jammed to be used and the

climbers decided to use transport rope instead), the cord either was cut or snapped from a fall,

plunging Kukuczka to his death.
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