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AAC Publications Bes Parmak Sivrisi, El Pastor Electrico Turkey, Ala Daglar Raul Gonzalez and Mikel Saez de Urabain climbed a new line on Bes Parmak Sivrisi (3,520m), at the head of the Cimbar Valley, in July. El Pastor Electrico (425m) ascends a shallow buttress on the northwest face, to the right of the original route on the wall (Alcay-Villarig, 1974), giving 12 pitches up to 6c. The two climbed it in a long day without leaving any fixed gear. Information from Mikel Saez de Urabain, Basque Country Editor’s note: In June, Italian climbers Jimmy Palermo, Tommaso Salvadori, and Ivan Testori made the first ascent of Cani Randagi (300m, 6b max, 6a obl) in the Cimbar Valley, on the southwest face of the canyon leading to Teke Pinari pass. Details are at PlanetMountain.com.

Bes Parmak Sivrisi, El Pastor Electricopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212558.pdf · El Pastor Electrico (425m) ascends a shallow buttress on the northwest face,

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Page 1: Bes Parmak Sivrisi, El Pastor Electricopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212558.pdf · El Pastor Electrico (425m) ascends a shallow buttress on the northwest face,

AAC Publications

Bes Parmak Sivrisi, El Pastor ElectricoTurkey, Ala Daglar

Raul Gonzalez and Mikel Saez de Urabain climbed a new line on Bes Parmak Sivrisi (3,520m), at thehead of the Cimbar Valley, in July. El Pastor Electrico (425m) ascends a shallow buttress on thenorthwest face, to the right of the original route on the wall (Alcay-Villarig, 1974), giving 12 pitches upto 6c. The two climbed it in a long day without leaving any fixed gear.

Information from Mikel Saez de Urabain, Basque Country

Editor’s note: In June, Italian climbers Jimmy Palermo, Tommaso Salvadori, and Ivan Testori made thefirst ascent of Cani Randagi (300m, 6b max, 6a obl) in the Cimbar Valley, on the southwest face of thecanyon leading to Teke Pinari pass. Details are at PlanetMountain.com.

Page 2: Bes Parmak Sivrisi, El Pastor Electricopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212558.pdf · El Pastor Electrico (425m) ascends a shallow buttress on the northwest face,

Images

The ca 450m northwest face of (A) Bes Parmak Sivrisi (“Five Fingers” Sivrisi). (1) Alcay-Villarig, 1974.(2) El Pastor Electrico, Gonzalez-Saez, 2013.

Topo for El Pastor Electrico, Bes Parmak Sivrisi

Page 3: Bes Parmak Sivrisi, El Pastor Electricopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212558.pdf · El Pastor Electrico (425m) ascends a shallow buttress on the northwest face,

Climbing on El Pastor Electrico, Bes Parmak Sivrisi.

Climbing on El Pastor Electrico, Bes Parmak Sivrisi. At right: the north side of Koca Sarp.

Page 4: Bes Parmak Sivrisi, El Pastor Electricopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212558.pdf · El Pastor Electrico (425m) ascends a shallow buttress on the northwest face,

Article Details

Author Mikel Saez de Urabain

Publication AAJ

Volume 56

Issue 88

Page 245

Copyright Date 2014

Article Type Climbs and expeditions