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Berowra is one of Sydneys most popular

climbing areas. The climbing is predominately

sport climbing with a few trad routes thrown in

for good measure. The cliff face due west so

can bake on a hot day. Cool weather is

definitely the preferred time to climb here

although it is possible in ALL weather. After rain

some of the walls tend to be a little dirty and

may require a little cleaning.

Access:

Berowra is located 10mins drive north of

Sydney just of the F3 freeway. It can be

accessed by public transport although the walk

from the train station at Berowra would be

30mins. By car drive to the end of Wide view

Rd and park out of the way of residents.

Crag Topo

Cliff

Not To Scale

Parking

Pimple Buttress

Ladder of

Gloom area

Blackboard

Glamorpus

Area Bullet hol

wall

Positive Ape

Factor area

Wall Thing Wall

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How to read the guide:

The guide is divided into two columns andreads like a newspaper. Climb names that are

in bold are featured on a photo topo and onesthat are ingrey do not.

Disclaimer:

While every effort is taken to supply informationthat is correct this guide is not necessarily

correct. Anyone using this guide understandsthat climbing is a dangerous sport that could

result in injury or worse. Be careful out there.

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Pimple Buttress

This buttress is the most northern part of the

cliff at berowra. There a couple of reasonable

routes found here.

A 10m 17

Start: Marked left of Pimple.Looks run out and unpleasant.

Pimple 10m 20Start: Marked.Climb through roof past Br and RB to pleasant

easier crack with natural protection. Belay ontree back from edge

It's For You 10m 18Start: Marked.Climbs up the right of the wall near the arte. A

left hand variant is also possible. 2Brs to loweroff.

Mike Law (solo) 1980s

Taylor Made 6m 15

Start: right of IFY.Jug up past two fixed hangers to belay off tree.Not bad but very shortJulian Anderson

Ladder of Gloom Area

This area of the cliff is quite popular as it has acouple of nice routes and the crag classicladder of gloom. It is also where the scramble

down access of cenotaph corner is located. It islocated 50m south of Pimple Buttress

Savage Cabbage 8m 19Start: Below crack / flake 5m left of CC

Climbs the crack system on the left of the wallnear CC. Up Crack to flake taking care with pro

placement. Trad gear to lower off.Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

Stone Grotties 8m 16Start: 2m right of SCToprope or solo only. No gear and very dirty.

The next route is frequently used as an accessroute.

Cenotaph Corner 8m 4Start: Slabby corner crack right of SG.Walk up the corner crack.

B 9m 25+Start: 2m right of CC.Blank wall with two Brs ascent details

unknown.

Ladder of Gloom 12m 19

Start: 10m right of CC.Very popular. Traverse right to the bottom ofthe obvious ladder then steeply up. 4 RBs to

double RB lower off.Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s

P

IFY

TM

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Ladder of Death 10m 22Start: Directly below the LoG.Stick clip 1st RB, dyno to jug then up short

strenuous arte (RB) and move left to 2nd RBon LoG and up.

The Mantle Machine 12m 14Start: 4m right of LoD (just past the low roof

with the hole).Move diagonally left mantling overhangs. 1 Brand trad gear required. Finish just right of LoG.

Hayden Brotchie, N. Timms 12/09/1993

Medium Strip 10m 20Start: As for TMM.Follow the 4 gold FHs up the rounded arte.

Not as easy as it looks.Julian Anderson 1998

C 12m 10Start: 5m right of MS.Up the low angled slab to the obvious ramp

(BR). Not worth the effort unless your walkingout.

SC

SGCC

LoGLoD

MS

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Soap Cave

The soap cave is the large orange cave about50m along from Ladder of Gloom. It stays dry in

the rain but the routes are fairly average.

Sumo 18m 23Start: on wall left of soap crack.Stick clip first RB, then traverse left along the lip

of the roof past 7 more RBs to a double RBlower off at the end of the roof. Take care withthe rock - a lot of it looks pretty friable.

Lloyd Wishart 29/07/1997

Soap 15m 23Start: The overhanging corner crack on the leftedge of the cave. Steep crack past jugs then

out the roof crack and up.Giles Bradbury 1980s

D (Project) 12m 28?Start: As for S.Heads up soap for a couple of metres, then

breaks out right across the main roof. 5 RBs tochain lower off (above LH).

E (Dingo?) 8m 24Start: 2m right of S.Steeply up chips past 3 BRs and RB to double

RB lower off. Not a pleasant route and can bevery greasy.

F (Dingo?) 8m 26Start: 1m right of E.

Steeply up chips past 4 RBs to chain lower off

as for LH.

Luv Handles 12m 20Start: 2m right of F.Steep moves past 5 RBs to chain lower off.

Very juggy and can be done in the rain. Takecare, as some of the falls could be nasty.Unknown 2001

The Blackboard

Located just right of the soap cave thebackboard is a nice vertical, black and orange

wall with a number of popular routes on it.Unfortunately it suffers from run off after rain so

some routes may need a brush every once in awhile. The routes on this wall have iron stoneedges that makes for great crimpy climbing.

3D Wimp Out 12m 21Start: The right arte of the Soap Cave.

Undercut start, short arte to ledge then wall

above. 4 RBs in total to lower off.James Holbrook, Mike Law 1980s

Alison 12m 25Start: 1m right of 3DW.

Up to Scoop, then thin wall above. 4 RBs.

E

F

LH

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The Red Menace 15m 24Start: As for Alison.Up Alison to scoop then traverse right to jug on

lip and up crimpy headwall. An easier version ofAlison without any chips! 5 RBs to lower off.Stephen Hawkshaw 21//04

Gash 12m 16

Start: 3m right of A, below V chimney.

Unpleasant V chimney, often dirty with marginaltrad gear.

Yesterday's Heroes 12m 17Start: Marked, 3m right of G.

Very popular. Delicate start, L under overlap,trending R to top. 4 RBs to lower off. Directthrough overlap goes at 18 but is a tad run out.

Palm Sunday 12m 21Start: 1m right of YH.Trend right past 3 spaced RBs on decreasing

holds to lower off. Excellent wall climbing andnot too hard for the grade.Craig Martin, Harry Wilson 1980s

Samantha 10m 20Start: 2m right of PS.Thin face past 2 very rusty BRs, then cams tolower off (shared with DC).Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

DC 6m 22

Start: starts on elevated platform. Marked.Straight up past two RBs to lower off.Straying right towards Eccles only scores19.

Eccles 7m 20

Start: Just right of DC.Up on crimps past 2 RBs to the lower offabove DC.Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler, JamesHolbrook 1980s

JHTB 8m 20Start: Right of E.

No pro. Hard start.

Bill Collins 10m 24Start: Marked. Just right of elevated platform.

Mantle on jug then thin and sharp faceclimbing. 3 RBs to lower off. This climb is 24 if

your good at crimpy faces or 25 if its not yourusual style.Mike Law 1980s

Gidget / Verdon 15m 22Start: 8m right of BC, below flake.

Ridiculously hard start, then up flake and veerright at 3rd RB to top. A better variant veers leftalong obvious line at the 3rd RB past another 2RBs to a double RB lower off.Mike Law 1980s

Butter Kn ives 12m 28Start: 4m right of GV.

Sharp and thin past 4 BRs. Extremely thin

climbing straight up far right side of the wall.Looks improbable

Mike Law 1980s

Marsala 8m 12

Start: The corner crack at the right hand end ofthe Blackboard.A good beginners route with good protectionand easily toproped.

3DW

A

TRM

G

YH

YHD

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Glamorpus Area

A great orange cave with some nice harderclimbs. A couple of the routes have very old

bolts so take care when using them.

G 6m ??Start: Left of cave on small poxy wall.One old bolt hole down low, and one manky BRup higher.

Juli an's Finest Hour 6m 15Start: 5m right of G.Up the dirty black wall with dubious natural pro.

Julian Anderson 1990s

H 8m 22

Start: Up and right of JFH.Straight up face on very slick rock. 3 RBs todouble RB lower off.

Glamorpus Wall Proper

Scones of Doom 12m 23

Start: Far left of cave. Marked.Steeply up past 4 RBs moving left through roofto a double bolt belay

Omnopox 12m 24Start: 3m right of SoD.BRs, left to chain lower off. Need rebolting!

Glamorpus 15m 24Start: Below central hanging arte.

Very hard start mantle then up the overhangingjuggy arte moving left at top to chain. Great

climbing! 5RBs

Are You My Mother? 12m 25

Start: 4m right of G.Height dependant grade. Up bulging wall.Lower of single carrot with shackle. Needsrebolting!

Green Eggs and Ham 12m 25

Start: 2m right of AYMM.Up corner, left at roof, corner (3 BRs). Rightand up (cams).

I 15m 20Start: 1m Left of LL

Up obvious arte feature past 4 FHs. A bitsandy but will clean up with traffic. Goodfeature and climbing.

Lentil Lollipops 12m 9Start: Marked.

Steep start, and then up the unpleasantvegetated chimney.Geoffrey Heath, James Holbrook 1980s

J (Ancient open project) 12m ??Start: 3m right of LL.

Up steep prow past 2 BRs and FHs.

SoDO

G

AYMM

I

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Bullet Hole Wall

The Bullet hole wall isa highly pocketed wall

that features anumber of goodroutes. The rock hereis very soft and wearis becoming obviouson the more popular

routes. On winterweekends this part ofthe crag can become

particularly busy. Thepick of the bunch is

looks poxable which isa great tick at thegrade.

Scott's Edge 15m 22Start: Left arte of Bullet Hole Wall.Roof, arte, thenup orange wall passing 5 RBsto lower off. Great crux moves and the headwall has some interesting pockets!

Comausminpab 12m 18Start: Marked. 2m right of SE.

Roof then pocketed wall passing a couple ofbolts (poor pro up high). Take a big cam. Needs

lower offs

IGMC 12m 21

Start: Between C and FSP.Up the wall, passing 3 BRs. Run out from 1st to2nd Bolt. Needs lower offs.

Fox / Sox / Pox 12m 18Start: 2m right of C.

Very popular. Roof, then pocketed wall past 2rebar staples (used due to poor rock quality)and 2 RBs to a chain lower off. The start of thisroute is deteriorating due to the large amountsof repeats it gets.

Natasha 12m 22Start: 3m right of FSP.

Sustained pockets past crappy bolts to chainlower off. Thin crux past 3rd RB

Looks Poxab le 12m 21Start: 1m right of N.Great. 4 RBs to cold shut (!) and RB lower off.Up pocketed wall to thin top section. Theclassic of the crag!

Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

Mental Fatigue 11m 18Start: At prominent flake 2m right of LP.Popular. Follow flake up and left, then up wallto chain lower off. 4 RBs in total. Direct start

has no pro and is 21.

James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

Broken Candy 11m 20Start: As for MF.

Up and right past 2 BRs and cam breaks. 2ndclip has ground fall potential.Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

SE

CIGMC

F/S/P

NLP

MFDS

MF

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Positive Ape Factor Area

This area has a couple of great routes theorange wall is a standout feature at Berowra. Ifonly it had some more holds on it.

Who Cares 12m 19/20

Start: Left arte of nice orange wall.Boulder steep start then up seam just right ofarte. At the cave, head right (RB). Take care

with pro.James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

24 12m 21Start: 3m left of the corner.Bouldery start (RB) then big crux moves past2nd RB to break. Joins WC at top. Only worth20 if you veer left at 2nd RB.

James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

Positive Ape Factor 10m 22

Start: Below obvious orange corner.Easy up the cracks then a huge reach (crux) tohorizontal break. Trad gear.

Scott Butler 1980s

Positi ve Ape Factor (Variant Finish) 10m 21

Start: As for PAF.Up PAF to right leading flake. Out flake.Giles Bradbury 1980s

K (Ancient open project) 10m ??

Start: 2m right of PAF.2 BRs

L (Ancient open project) 10m ??

Start: 2m right of J.1 ancient BR.

Daily Grind 10m 25Start: Marked. 2m right of K.

Technical and runout, with 2 New BRs to loweroff.Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s

Kenneth's Climb 10m 14Start: 2m right of DG, below cracks.Steep start to pleasant slabby cracks great forbeginners. Lower off added.James Holbrook, Greg Christie 1980s

WC

24

PAF

PAF

PAF

VF

K

LDG

KC

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Wall Thing Wall

A small wall at the far right end of the crag. Thesouthern access comes down here.

Flake Thing 12m 21Start: 5m right of KC.

Right side of arte (cams). Pro looks minimal.Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

Wall Thing 12m 18Start: 2m right of FT.Wall past breaks (often sandy) to thin crack. 4

RBs to lower off.Rohan Reynolds, Michael ? 1980s

Boundary Rider 10m 19Start: 1m right of WT.

Straight up past RB and 3 BRs to new lower off.Straying right near the top only scores a 16.Julian Anderson, Jonas Kuganus 07/1998

FTWT

B R