469469

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Abi Mcanally, Alain Vada, Alex Anderson, Alexandra Boissonneault, Amy Skewes-Cox, Angelica Aguilar, Anna Steinert, Anne Sorensen, Armando Nogueira, Audun Lem, Barry Weiss, Brian Fagan, Bryan Booth, Carol Janney, Christopher Cheung, David Lacy, Dirk Verhulst, Eduardo Vial, Eve Masi, Gabriela Saez, Gilles Caouette, Han Wong, Helen Stanley, Houda Lazrak, Ines Ruestenberg, Joan Reid, Johan Engman, Jonathan Freeman, Juan Zuazo, Judith Baker, Juliette Giannesini, Kathrin Birner, Liz Rushton, Louis-Francois Delannoy, Manuela Holfert, Mark Miller, Martin Gran-cay, Martin Hellwagner, Martin Vest Nielsen, Michael Stolar, Michelle Washington, Miriam Price, Mirjam Hiller, Murray Jones, Naomi Joswiak, Naomi Sharp, Noelle Ehrenkaufer, Oskar Op de Beke, Patrick Cafferty, Pierre Naviaux, Piet Hageman, Remco Wulms, Rich Lang, Ron McDowell, Ron Witton, Roxanne Cote, Sabine Doorman, Sean Casey, Steve Sample, Susannah Glynn, Tobias Rnnertz, Tom Kowalczyk, Wendy Horton, Wendy Picker-ing, Wendy Salvo

AUTHOR THANKS Carolyn McCarthyBig thanks to copilot Estefania, hosts Angela and Jim Donini, Susanne in Natales for the lunchbox, Eliana in La Junta for car help, and Trauko for shepherding this planet like no one else. Gratitude also goes to the crew in Coy-haique, Mery and Mauricio, Nicolas Lapenna, Carolina Morgado, Andres, Philip Cary, Ruth and the amazing ladies of Puerto Williams. In the last edition, I thanked the Subarito for not breaking on the Carretera Austral. Looks like I spoke too soon.

Greg BenchwickGracias to my coordinating author Carolyn McCarthy and destination editor MaSovaida Morgan. Your vision made working on this book a pleasure. Beautiful Natalia was a great help finding my way through the hills of Valparaso. And the biggest and bravest of thanks to Brian Kluepfel, who traveled with me through the schopperias of Arica and Iquique on my fateful first journey to this long, lean land.

Jean-Bernard CarilletHeaps of thanks to the editorial and cartogra-phy teams at Lonely Planet for their great job. Coordinating author Carolyn deserves a grand merci for her support and hospitality I wont

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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Behind the Scenes

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

470

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

forget my lovely retreat at her home, and the great company of Richard, moniteur de kay-ak extraordinaire (and the wine was great, too!). On Easter Island, special thanks to Sebastian, Lionel, Antoine, Henri and Michel.

Kevin RaubThanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who once again put up with my missing Christmas, my birthday and New Years Eve! Also to MaSovaida Morgan, and my partners-in-crime, Carolyn McCarthy, Lucas Vidgen, JB Carillet and Greg Benchwick. On the road, Richard Carrier, Alfonso Spoliansky, Britt and Sandra Lewis, Fernando Claude and Amory Uslar, Mirella Montaa, Juan Pablo Man-silla, Karin Terrsy, Cyril Christensen, Tracy Katelman, Claudio Ansorena, Sarina Hinte, Vincent Baudin, Ben Miray, Raffaele di Blas, Rodrigo Condezza, Sirce Santibaez and Mariela Del Pillar.

Lucas VidgenThanks first and foremost to the Chileans for having such an excellent country to travel and work in re bacn, compadres! Thanks also to Vicky Toledo for excellence in everything, Patrizia, Flavio and Gerardo in Putre, Marco Iglesias in Vicua, Domnica in Caldera and all the travelers who wrote in or offered tips on the road. And last but far from least: to Teresa and Sofia, for being there, and being there when I got back.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Up-dated World Map of the Kppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, Michele Falzone/AWL.

THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planets Chile & Easter Island guidebook was researched and written by Carolyn Mc-Carthy, Greg Benchwick, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Kevin Raub and Lucas Vidgen. The previous edition was writ-ten by Carolyn McCarthy, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Bridget

Gleeson, Anja Muti and Kevin Raub. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor MaSovaida MorganProduct Editors Carolyn Boicos, Tracy Whitmey Senior Cartographers Mark Griffiths, Alison Lyall Book Designer Clara Monitto

Assisting Editors Andrea Dobbin, Anne Mulvaney, Christopher Pitts, Ross Taylor, Simon WilliamsonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Imogen Bannister, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, Jessica Rose, Wibowo Rusli, Ellie Simpson

471Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbtao 298accommodations 444-5,

463, see also individual locations

Achao 291-2Aconcagua Valley 109-11activities 24, 25-7, 33-7, see

also individual activitiesaddresses 445ahu 399, 406, 407, 409, 12air travel 454-5, 457Alcoguaz 212Aldea de Tulor 155alerce 305Allende, Isabel 416, 432Allende, Salvador 49, 57,

418-21alpacas 436altitude sickness 448Anakena Beach 18, 405,

407, 18Ancud 283-7, 284Andes 15, 111, 435-6, 15Angol 136animals 22, 436-7, see also

individual animalsAntarctica 340, 388Anticura 258-9Antillanca 258Antofagasta 165-8Archipilago Juan Fernndez

137-42, 138area codes 452Argentina

Patagonia 362-71Tierra del Fuego 387-96travel to/from 333, 336,

456-7Arica 179-87, 180-1art galleries, see galleriesarts 432-4astronomy 150, 168, 206,

211, 413

Atacama Desert 150, 422, 435, 23, 158-9

Atacameo people 428ATMs 449Aymara people 428Ayquina 155Azapa Valley 187-8

BBachelet, Michelle 424, 426Baha Inglesa 219-20Baha Mansa 256bargaining 451Bartonellosis 447bathrooms 452beaches

Anakena 18, 405, 407, 18Arica 181-2Baha Inglesa 219Cachagua 106Caldera 218Caleta Condor 256Cobquecura 126-7Concn 106Easter Island 399Guanaqueros 203Horcn 106Iquique 171-2Isla Damas 212La Serena 197-8Maitencillo 106Ovahe 407Petrohu 270Playa La Virgen 221Reaca 106safety 450Tongoy 203Zapallar 106

Beagle Channel 387, 389-90beavers 383beer 207, 248, 258, 447Beln 190bicycling 35-6, 60-1, 149-50,

401, 457-8, see also mountain biking

birds 436-7, see also individual species

birdwatchingbooks 437Huilo-Huilo Reserva

Natural Biosfera 253Monumento Natural Dos

Lagunas 322Parque Nacional Chilo

288, 298Parque Nacional

Nahuelbuta 136Parque Nacional Tierra

del Fuego 394Parque Saval 248Parque Tagua-Tagua 274Porvenir 380Puerto Varas 262

boat travel 458boat trips

Arica 183Caldera 218Coquimbo 202Iquique 172Parque Nacional Laguna

San Rafael 323Parque Nacional Los

Glaciares (South) 367Parque Nacional Torres

del Paine 358Tierra del Fuego 389-90Valdivia 249

Bolao, Roberto 432Bolivia, travel to/from 457books 412

birdwatching 437environmental issues 439history 416, 418, 421literature 432-3Patagonia 337Tierra del Fuego 387

border crossings 455, 456-7breweries 207, 248, 258Bridges, E Lucas 387Buchupureo 127budget 21, 444, 447bus travel

to/from Chile 455within Chile 458-9, 461

business hours 449-50

CCabo de Hornos 386Cabo Froward 345Cachagua 106Cahuil 116Cajn de Mapocho Tres

Valles 85-6Cajn del Maipo 81, 83-5Calama 162-4Caldera 218-19Caleta Condor 19, 256, 19Caleta Hanga Piko 399Caleta Hanga Roa 399Caleta Manzano 256Caleta Tortel 331-2Caleta Tril-Tril 256Camern 381Campeonato Nacional de

Rodeo 26, 112, 26canyoning 37, 234, 240,

260-1Cape Horn 386Capilla de Mrmol 326car travel 455-6, 459-61Carnaval Ginga 25Carretera Austral 16, 306, 16Casa Colorada 49, 52Casa de Isla Negra 107-8Casablanca Valley 105-7Caspana 155Castillo Wulff 103Castro 292-8, 294cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCaupolicn 416cave paintings 324, 325, 326caves

Ana Kai Tangata 406Ana Kakenga 406Ana Te Pahu 406Cueva de las Manos 326Cuevas de los Patriotas

140Cueva de los Pincheira

125Cueva del Milodn 353Iglesia de Piedra 127Pali Aike Cave 345

472

IND

EX C- F

cell phones 20, 451-2cemeteries

Pisagua 179Punta Arenas 338Santiago 62Valparaso 91, 93

Cerro Aconcagua 109, 110Cerro El Roble 108Cerro La Campana 108Cerro Paranal Observatory

168Cerro San Cristbal 53, 55Chaitn 308-10Chanqun 298Chatwin, Bruce 337Chepu 288, 298children, travel with 38-9, 53Chile 11 Highway 188-9,

188-9Chile Chico 324-5Chilean recluse spiders 448Chilln 123-5, 124Chilo 12, 41, 281-300, 282

accommodations 281climate & travel seasons

281food 281highlights 282history 283travel to/from 283travel within 283

Chinchorro mummies 187, 188, 414

Chiu Chiu 155Choshuenco 254Chuquicamata 164-5churches & cathedrals

Catedral de Chilln 123Catedral de San Marcos

181Catedral

Metropolitana 48Iglesia Catedral 197Iglesia de Nuestra Seora

del Patrocinio 290Iglesia de San Francisco

(Chiu Chiu) 155Iglesia de San Francisco

(Santiago) 49Iglesia de San Lucas 155Iglesia del Sagrado

Corazn 260Iglesia Hanga Roa 399Iglesia La Matriz 95Iglesia Nuestra Seora

de Gracia de Nercn 292

Iglesia San Francisco (Valparaso) 94

Iglesia San Francisco de Castro 292

Iglesia San Pedro 147Iglesia Santa Mara de

Loreto 291Nuestra Seora de Los

Dolores 289Parroquia Nuestra

Seora de Dolores 103cinema 412, 423, 433-4climate 20, 25, 26-7, see

also individual regionsclimbing 34

Ojos del Salado 217-18Parque Nacional

Conguillo 231Parque Nacional Los

Glaciares (North) 368-9

Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces 217

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 358

Pucn 237Puerto Ingeniero Ibez

324San Pedro de Atacama

149-50Volcn Osorno 268-9Volcn Villarrica 243-4

Cobquecura 126-7Cocham 270-1Cocham Valley 271-2Cochiguaz 211Cochrane 329-31Codpa 190Colchagua Valley 111-15Colchane 177colectivos 461Concepcin 127-9Concn 106condors 437consulates 446Copiap 215-17Coquimbo 202-3Cordillera de la Sal 14, 160costs 21, 444, 447courses

cooking 95, 346-7language 61, 95, 115,

172, 198Coyhaique 317-22, 318, 373crafts 451Crater Morada del Diablo

345-6Crter Navidad 233credit cards 449crime 450-1Cruce el Maitn 327Cruz del Tercer Milenio 202

cultural centers, see galleries & cultural centers

culture 413, 427-8Curacautn 232Curaco de Vlez 291curanto 286Curarrehue 247-8Curic 117-18currency 449customs regulations 445-6cycling, see bicycling

DDakar rally 182Dalcahue 289-91dance 74, 399dangers 76, 450-1, 461Dientes de Navarino 382,

383-4disabilities, travelers

with 452diving 37

Easter Island 399, 35Isla Damas 213Isla Robinson Crusoe 140

dog sledding 235, 389dogs 450dolphins 211, 212, 256,

314, 380Donoso, Jos 432Dorfman, Ariel 432drinks 447, see also beer,

pisco, winedriving, see car travel

Eearthquakes 412-13, 424-5,

429, 450Easter Island (Rapa Nui)

12, 42, 397-410, 421, 398

accommodations 397, 402-4, 409-10

activities 399-401arts 409climate & travel seasons

397culture 408-9drinking & nightlife 405environmental issues

439festivals & events 402food 397, 404-5, 410geography & geology

409highlights 398history 408internet access 410language 464population 408-9

shopping 405sights 398-9, 406-7tours 401-2travel to/from 410travel within 410

economy 412, 413, 418-21, 426, 429-30

El Calafate 362-7, 364-5El Cai 246El Caulle 258El Chaltn 368-71El Colorado 85El Enladrillado 121El Gigante de Atacama 177El Molle people 205, 414El Tatio Geysers 17, 162,

17, 158-9electricity 446, 449Elqui Valley 14, 205-11,

212, 15embassies 446emergencies 21, 465enotourism 430Ensenada 267-8Entre Lagos 259environmental issues 272,

340, 438-9Escorial del Diablo 345Estancia Harberton 395etiquette 428events 25-7exchange rates 21, 449

FFantasilandia 53Farellones 85farmstays 311ferry travel 458festivals 25-7Fiestas Patrias 27films 412, 423, 433-4fires, forest 439, 442fishing 37

Chaitn 308-9Coyhaique 317Lago Blanco 382Parque Nacional Queulat

316Puerto Aisn 317Puerto Varas 261Ro Grande 396

Fitz Roy Range 368flamingos 161, 194, 217flowering desert 215folklore 293food 22-3, 286, 446-7, 464-5,

see also individual locations

cooking courses 95, 346-7football 74

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

473IN

DEX F-I

Frei station 386Frutillar 18, 262, 18Fuerte San Antonio 283-4Fuguet, Alberto 433funiculars 55Futaleuf 310-12

Ggalleries & cultural centers,

see also museumsCasa del Arte Diego

Rivera 274Centro Cultural Palacio

La Moneda 49Centro Gabriela Mistral

52-3Galera Animal 63Galera Isabel Aninat 63La Sala Galera de

Arte 63Parque Cultural de

Valparaso 91gardens, see parks & gardensGaud, Anton 413gay travelers 447geography & geology 409,

435-6geysers 17, 162, 17, 158-9Gigantes de Lluta 188glaciers 369, 438, 439

Calluqueo Glacier 329Caleta Tortel 331Glaciar El Morado 84Glaciar Martial 389Glaciar OHiggins 332Glaciar Perito Moreno

362, 363, 367, 369Glaciar Serrano 353Glaciar Zapata 357Glaciarium 363Glacier Grey 358Glacier Montt 331Glacier Steffens 331Parque Nacional Los

Glaciares 367-8Parque Nacional Queulat

316 Pio XI 280Reserva Nacional Cerro

Castillo 323San Valentn 322-3Yelcho 309

Gndola Carril 109government 418-26Gran Torre Santiago 59Granizo 108Guallatire 194guanacos 436, 17, 372Guanaqueros 203Guevara, Ernesto Che 165

HHanga Roa 398-406, 400hanta virus 447-8Harberton 395health 447-8Heyerdahl, Thor 421hiking 22, 34, 35

Anticura 258-9Cabo Froward 345Caleta Tortel 331Cerro Castillo 317-18Cocham Valley 271-2Dientes de Navarino

383-4 Easter Island 400-1El Caulle 258Isla Navarino 383-4Llanada Grande 273Paine Circuit 357Parque Nacional

Archipilago Juan Fernndez 142

Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge 203-4

Parque Nacional Chilo 298

Parque Nacional Conguillo 231

Parque Nacional Huerquehue 247

Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja 135

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares 367, 368

Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta 136-7

Parque Nacional Pali Aike 345-6

Parque Nacional Pan de Azcar 221

Parque Nacional Puyehue 257

Parque Nacional Queulat 316

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego 395

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 355-8, 359, 33

Parque Nacional Vicente Prez Rosales 268

Parque Nacional Villarrica 244

Parque Pumaln 307Parque Tantauco

299Puerto Natales 346Reserva Nacional Altos

de Lircay 121-2Reserva Nacional Cerro

Castillo 323

Reserva Nacional Coyhaique 322

Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni 325-6

Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas 233

Reserva Nacional Radal Siete Tazas 118

Ro Liucura Valley 246San Pedro de Atacama

149-50Sendero Andinista 108Sendero La Cascada 109Sendero Los Peumos

108-9Ushuaia 389Valle Chacabuco (Parque

Nacional Patagonia) 328

Ventisquero Yelcho 309Volcn Chaitn Crater

Trail 307W, the 355-6, 356-7

history 24, 414-2620th century 418-2321st century 423-6books 416, 418, 421civil war 417-18independence from

Spain 416-17military coup 420-1military dictatorship 61,

421-3mining 417pre-Columbian era 414-15Spanish occupation

415-16wine growing 429-30

hitchhiking 461holidays 450homestays 256, 311, 444-5Horcn 106Hornopirn 304-5horse racing 74-5horseback riding 36

Cocham 270Easter Island 400Parque Nacional Los

Glaciares 367Parque Nacional Torres

del Paine 358Patagonia 311Pichilemu 115Pucn 238Puerto Aisn 317Puerto Natales 346Puerto Varas 261San Pedro de Atacama

150Tierra del Fuego 380

horseflies 450hot springs

Aguas Calientes 257Balneario Termal Baos

Morales 84Chaitn 308Enquelga 177La Junta 313Puyuhuapi 314Reserva Nacional

Malalcahuello-Nalcas 233

Termas de Chilln 125-6Termas de Puritama 155Termas de Puyuhuapi

315-16Termas de Socos 205Termas Geomtricas 246Termas Valle de Colina 84Valle Hermoso 125-6Vegas de Turi 155

Huasco 214Huasco Valley 213-14Huilliche people 256Huilo-Huilo Reserva

Natural Biosfera 253Humberstone 176-7hummingbirds 138hydroelectricity 272, 438,

439

Iice trekking 358, 367,

368-9immigration 452-3, 454insect bites 450insurance 447, 448, 460internet access 448internet resources 21, 427,

431, 438Inti Runa 207Iquique 168-76, 170, 12Isla Alejandro Selkirk 140Isla Chaaral 212-13Isla Choros 212Isla Damas 212Isla Grande de Chilo 435Isla Magdalena 19, 316, 19Isla Margarita 270Isla Mechuque 289Isla Metalqui 298Isla Navarino 382-6Isla Negra 107-8Isla Pan de Azcar 221Isla Quinchao 291-2Isla Robinson Crusoe 137,

139, 140-2, 138Isluga 177itineraries 28-32, 48

474

IND

EX J-M

Jjewelry 451

Kkayaking 36-7, 288, see

also raftingCastro 293-4Coyhaique 317Futaleuf 310Parque Nacional Torres

del Paine 358Parque Pumaln 307Pucn 239Puerto Varas 260-1Punta Arenas 340Puyuhuapi 315

King George Island 386kitesurfing 37, 207, 36

LLa Araucana 227-48La Chascona 11, 55, 11La Confluencia 327la cueca 74La Junta (Cocham Valley)

271-2La Junta (Northern

Patagonia) 313-14La Parva 15, 85, 15La Sebastiana 93La Serena 197-202, 198La Tirana 178La Victoria 419Lago Cachet 438Lago Calafqun 254Lago Chungar 192Lago Elizalde 317Lago Llanquihue 262-3Lago Panguipulli 254Lago Ranco 254Laguna Azul 357Laguna Chaxa 161Laguna Cotacotani 192Laguna Inca Coya 155Laguna Miiques 161Laguna Miscanti 161, 31Laguna Tuyajto 161Laguna Verde 218Lagunillas 85Lakes District 18, 252-80landscapes 23-4language 463-8

courses 61, 95, 115, 172, 198

lapiz lazuli 451

Las Cuevas 192legal matters 448Lemebel, Pedro 433lesbian travelers 447Limar Valley 204-5literature 432-3, see also

booksllamas 436Llanada Grande 273Lluta geoglyphs 188logging 438Lolol 114Londres 38 49Los 33 413, 425Los Andes 109-10Los Angeles 134-5Los Ros 248-52Lota 128

MMagallanes 336-46, 415Maicolpu 256Maipo Valley 80-1Maitencillo 106Mano del Desierto 168Manzano 256maps 448-9Mapuche people 226, 426,

427, 428markets 212, 289, 451

Achao 291Chilln 123Cochrane 329Santiago 48, 75Valdivia 248Valparaso 95

Maule Valley 13, 119-21, 429Maunga Pu A Katiki 407Maunga Terevaka 406measures 449medical services 447Melipeuco 234Memorial del Detenido

Desaparecido y del Ejecutado Poltico 62

Middle Chile 40, 87-142, 88-9

accommodations 87climate & travel seasons

87food 87highlights 88-9travel to/from 90travel within 90

miners, trapped underground 413, 425

mining 417, 423, 438Chuquicamata 164-5Copiap 215Lota 128

Mistral, Gabriela 209, 432moai 12, 399, 406, 407,

409, 12mobile phones 20, 451-2money 20, 21, 449Montegrande 209Monumento Arqueolgico

Valle del Encanto 205Monumento Histricos

Nacionales Fuerte Bulnes 344-5

Monumento Histricos Nacionales Puerto Hambre 344-5

Monumento Nacional Isla de Cachagua 106

Monumento Natural Dos Lagunas 322

Monumento Natural Islotes de Puihuil 287

Monumento Natural La Portada 166

Monumento Natural Los Pinginos 19, 345, 19

Monumento Natural Salar de Surire 177, 194

motorcycle travel 340, 455-6, 459-61

mountain biking 35-6, see also bicycling

Isla Navarino 383Parque Nacional Torres

del Paine 358Pucn 238

mountaineering, see climbing

mummies, Chinchorro 187, 188, 414

murals 91, 419, 2museums, see also galleries

& cultural centersAldea Intercultural

Trawupeym 247Artequin 103Casa Museo Eduardo Frei

Montalva 58Casa Tornini 218Centro Cultural Augustn

Ross 115Centro de Visitantes

Inmaculada Concepcin 283

Glaciarium 363La Casa del Arte 128Museo a Cielo Abierto 93Museo Acatushn 395Museo Antiguo

Monasterio del Espritu Santo 109

Museo Antropolgico Sebastin Englert 398-9

Museo Arqueolgico de Santiago 54

Museo Arqueolgico San Miguel de Azapa 187-8

Museo Artequn 53Museo Artesana Chilena

114Museo Chileno de Arte

Precolombino 48Museo Corbeta

Esmeralda 169, 171Museo de Achao 291Museo de Arqueologa

e Historia Francisco Fonck 102-3

Museo de Arte Contemporneo 53

Museo de Arte Contemporneo Espacio Quinta Normal 57

Museo de Artes Visuales 53-4

Museo de Bellas Artes 91Museo de Colchagua 113Museo de la Memoria y

los Derechos Humanos 57

Museo de la Moda 59Museo de la Solidaridad

Salvador Allende 57Museo de Limar 204Museo de Sitio

Coln 10 181Museo de Tierra del

Fuego 380Museo de Volcanes 253Museo del Automvil 114Museo del Fin del Mundo

389Museo del Presidio 387-8Museo del Recuerdo 339Museo Gabriela Mistral

207Museo Gustavo Le

Paige 147Museo Histrico Casa

Gabriel Gonzlez Videla 197

Museo Histrico Nacional 49

Museo Histrico y Antropolgico 248

Museo Interactivo Mirador 53

Museo Lukas 91Museo Martimo 387-8Museo Martn Gusinde

383Museo Mineralgico 215Museo Minero de Tierra

Amarilla 215Museo Nacional de

Bellas Artes 53Museo Pioneros del

Baker 328

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

475IN

DEX M

-P Museo Regional de

Ancud 283Museo Regional de

Castro 292-3Museo Regional de La

Araucana 227Museo Regional de

Magallanes 337Museo Regional

Salesiano 338-9Museo Yaman 388

mythology 293

Nand 194national parks & reserves

440-2Cascada de las

Animas 83Huilo-Huilo Reserva

Natural Biosfera 253Monumento Natural Dos

Lagunas 322Monumento Natural El

Morado 84Monumento Natural Los

Pinginos 19, 345, 19Parque Nacional

Archipilago Juan Fernndez 142

Parque Nacional Bernardo OHiggins 353, 159

Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge 203-4

Parque Nacional Chilo 288, 298-300

Parque Nacional Conguillo 15, 230-2

Parque Nacional Hornopirn 305

Parque Nacional Huerquehue 246-7

Parque Nacional Isla Magdalena 316

Parque Nacional La Campana 108-9

Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja 135

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael 322-3, 373

Parque Nacional Lauca 192-3

Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe 214

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North) 368-71

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South) 367-8

Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta 136-7

Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces 217

Parque Nacional Pali Aike 345-6

Parque Nacional Pan de Azcar 220-2

Parque Nacional Patagonia 17, 328-9, 17, 372

Parque Nacional Puyehue 257-9, 257

Parque Nacional Queulat 316-17

Parque Nacional Rapa Nui 406-7

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego 394-6

Parque Nacional Tolhuaca 15, 231

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 11, 353-62, 354, 7, 10-11, 33, 158, 374-5

Parque Nacional Vicente Prez Rosales 268-70, 269

Parque Nacional Villarrica 243-5

Parque Nacional Volcn Isluga 177-8

Parque Nacional Yendegaia 382

Parque Pumaln 305-8, 375

Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay 121-2

Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo 323

Reserva Nacional Coyhaique 322

Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni 325-6

Reserva Nacional Las Vicuas 193-4

Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos 155-61, 31

Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas 15, 232-4, 15

Reserva Nacional Pingino de Humboldt 211-13

Reserva Nacional Radal Siete Tazas 118-19

Reserva Nacional Ro Clarillo 80-1

Reserva Nacional Ro Simpson 322

Reserva Nacional Tamango 331

Neruda, Pablo 93, 107-8, 433

newspapers 449nightlife 22-3, see also

individual locations

Norte Chico 41, 195-222, 196

accommodations 195climate & travel seasons

195food 195highlights 196travel within 197

Norte Grande 41, 143-94, 144-5

accommodations 143climate & travel seasons

143food 143highlights 144-5history 146safety 146travel to/from 146travel within 146

OObservatorio Cancana 211Observatorio Cerro

Mamalluca 206Observatorio Collowara

206Observatorio del Pangue

206Observatorio

Interamericano Cerro Tololo 206

Ocoa 108OHiggins, Bernardo

416, 417Ojos del Salado 217-18opening hours 449-50Orongo ceremonial village

406Oroya fever 447Osorno 254-6Ovalle 204-5ozone hole 340

PPalacio Cousio 57-8Palacio de la Moneda 49palafitos 292Palena 312-13Panguipulli 254Papa Vaka petroglyphs

407paragliding 37, 172Parinacota 192parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Cerro San Cristbal 53, 55

Cerro Santa Luca 48-9Jardn Botnico

Mapulemu 55

Jardn Botnico Nacional 103

Jardn Japons 55Parque Bicentenario 59Parque Botnico Isidora

Cousio 128Parque de las Esculturas

Exhibition Hall 58Parque del Estrecho de

Magallanes 344-5Parque Forestal 54Parque Japones Kokoro

No Niwa 197Parque Marino Francisco

Coloane 345Parque Metropolitano 55 Parque por la Paz 61Parque Quinta Normal 57Parque Quinta Vergara

102Parque Tagua-Tagua 274Parque Tantauco 299Reserva Forestal

Magallanes 339Parra, Nicanor 432Paso del Agua Negra 211passports 452-3, 454Patagonia, Argentine

362-71Patagonia, Northern 42,

301-33, 302-3accommodations 301climate & travel seasons

301food 301highlights 302-3history 304travel to/from 304travel within 304

Patagonia, Southern 42, 334-71, 335

accommodations 334climate & travel seasons

334food 334highlights 335history 336travel to/from 336travel within 336

Patio Bellavista 56penguins

Humboldt 106, 211-12, 220, 221, 287, 437

king 340, 380, 437Magellanic 19, 287, 339,

345, 347, 19Pennsula Poike 407Persa Bo Bo 75Peru, travel to/from 457petroglyphs 155, 205, 405,

406, 407Petrohu 269-70

476

IND

EX P-S

Pica 176Pichilemu 115-17Piedra de la Lobera 127Piera, Sebastin 299,

424-5Pinochet, Augusto 420-3Pintados 178Pisagua 179Piscina Antiln 59-60Piscina Tupahue 59-60pisco 207, 209-10, 212,

447, 451Pisco Elqui 209-11planning, see also

individual regionsactivities 33-7budgeting 21calendar of events 25-7children, travel with

38-9, 53Chile basics 20-1Chiles regions 40-2internet resources 21itineraries 28-32travel seasons 20, 25,

26-7plants 215, 437-8Playa La Virgen 221 Plaza de Armas

(Santiago) 48Plaza de Juegos Infantiles

Gabriela Mistral 55Poconchile 189poetry 432-3politics 412, 418-21, 426,

427pollution 438Pomaire 80population 412, 413, 427-8Portillo 110-11, 4Porvenir 380-1, 381private protected areas

442, see also national parks & reserves

protests 425-6, 427public holidays 450Pucatrihue 256Pucn 237-43, 238puds 298Puerto Aisn 317Puerto Bertrand 327-8Puerto Fonck 263Puerto Guadal 327Puerto Ingeniero Ibez

324Puerto Montt 274-80, 276

Puerto Natales 346-53, 348-9

Puerto Octay 262-3Puerto Ro Tranquilo 326Puerto Varas 259-67, 260Puerto Williams 16, 382-6,

16Puerto Yungay 332Pukar de Copaquilla 189Pukar de Lasana 155Pukar de Quitor 155Puna Pau 406Punta Arenas 336-44, 338Punta de Lobos 116Putre 189-92Puyuhuapi 314-15

QQuebrada de Jere 161Quelln 300Quemchi 287-9Quintay 107

Rradio 449rafting 36-7, see also

kayakingFutaleuf 310-11, 374Palena 313Pucn 239Puerto Varas 260-1Ro Baker 328Ro Maipo 83

Rancagua 26, 112, 413Rano Kau 406Rano Raraku 407Rapa Nui, see Easter Island

(Rapa Nui)Rapa Nui language 464Raul Marn Balmaceda 314reciprocity fees 452, 454religion 413, 427Reaca 106reserves, see national

parks & reservesRo Baker 327Ro Grande 396Ro Hurtado Valley 204Ro Liucura Valley 245-6Ro Puelo 272-3Ro Puelo Valley 273Ro Puntra 288Robinson Crusoe 137, 139Robinson Crusoe Island

137, 139, 140-2, 138Roca Ocenica 106rock climbing 239, 358rodeos 26, 112, 26

Ssafety 76, 450-1, 461Salar de Atacama 161salmon 278, 304, 439San Alfonso 83-4San Juan Bautista 140-2,

141San Juan de la Costa 256San Pedro de Atacama

146-54, 148sand-boarding 37, 150-1Santa Cruz 113-15Santa Laura 176-7Santiago 11, 40, 44-80,

46-7, 50-1, 54, 56, 58, 60

accommodations 44, 63-7

activities 59-61Barrio Brasil & Barrio

Yungay 56-7, 66, 69, 72Barrio Estacin Central

57-8Barrio Lastarria & Barrio

Bellas Artes 52-4, 64-5, 68, 71-2

Barrio Recoleta 64Bellavista 54-6, 65-6,

68-9, 72, 2, 16Centro 45, 48-9, 52,

63-4, 67-8, 71children, travel with 53climate & travel seasons

44courses 61drinking & nightlife

16, 71-3emergency services 76entertainment 73-5festivals & events 62food 16, 44, 64, 67-71highlights 46-7history 45internet access 76itineraries 48Las Condes, Barrio El

Golf & Vitacura 59, 67, 70, 73

medical services 76-7uoa 70-1, 73Providencia 58, 66,

70, 72safety 76shopping 75-6sights 45-59, 61, 62, 63tourist offices 77tours 61-2travel to/from 76, 77-8travel within 79-80

Saxamar 190sea lions 106, 127, 256,

298, 314

Selkirk, Alexander 137, 139Selknam (Ona) people

415Sendero Bicentenario 96Seno Otway 345Seplveda, Luis 432Serrano, Marcela 433shopping 451, 465,

see also individual locations

Siete Tazas 118Skrmeta, Antonio 432skiing 15, 35, 15

Antillanca 258Centro de Ski y Montaa

Volcn Osorno 269Cerro Castor 389El Colorado 85Farellones 85La Parva 15, 85, 15Lagunillas 85Nevados de Chilln Ski

Center 125Parque Nacional

Conguillo 231Parque Nacional Laguna

del Laja 135Portillo 110-11, 4Reserva Nacional

Malalcahuello-Nalcas 233

Ski Pucn 245Tres Valles 85-6Valle Nevado 85

smog 438, 450SMS Dresden 420snorkeling 399snowboarding 35snowmobiling 233snowshoeing 389Socaire 161soccer 74Socoroma 189South Shetland Islands

386Spanish language 463-8spiders 448stand-up paddleboarding

262stargazing 150, 168,

206, 211subway travel 461Sur Chico 41, 223-80,

224-5accommodations 223climate & travel seasons

223food 223highlights 224-5history 226travel to/from 226travel within 227

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

47 7IN

DEX S

-Z surfing 37

Arica 12, 182Cobquecura 127Easter Island 399-400Iquique 12, 172, 12La Serena 197Pichilemu 115

swimming 37, 59-60

Ttbano 450Talca 119-21Taltal 169Tapati Rapa Nui 25, 402, 26taxis 461Teillier, Jorge 432telephone services 20,

451-2Argentine numbers 451

telescopes 150, 168, 206, 207, 413

Temuco 227-30, 228-9Tenan 290Terraza Bellavista 55Territoro Mapa Lahual 256theft 450-1thermal springs, see hot

springsTierra del Fuego 42, 376-96,

378-9accommodations 376climate & travel seasons

376food 376highlights 378-9history 377travel to/from 377travel within 377

Tignamar 190Timaukel 381time 20tipping 449Toconao 161Toconce 155Tocopilla 169toilets 452Tolhuin 396Tompkins, Douglas &

Kris 330Tongoy 203tourist cards 453tourist information 452tours 461-2, see also

individual locationstrain travel 461, 462travel to/from Chile 454-7travel within Chile 457-62

trekking, see hikingTren Sabores del Valle 113Tres Valles 85-6Tril-Tril 256TV 449

Ultima Esperanza 346-62Ushuaia 387-94, 390-1Uyuni (Bolivia) 152

Vvacations 450Valdivia 248-53, 250Valle Chacabuco (Parque

Nacional Patagonia) 17, 328-9, 17, 372

Valle de la Luna 14, 161, 14, 158-9

Valle del Encanto 205Valle Hermoso 125-6Valle Las Trancas 125-6Valle Nevado 85-6Vallenar 213-14Valparaso 19, 90-101,

92-3, 19, 23accommodations 96-8activities 91-5courses 95drinking &

entertainment 99-100festivals & events 96food 98-9history 90-1medical services 100safety 100shopping 100sights 91-5, 96tourist offices 100tours 96travel to/from 100-1travel within 90, 101

Ventisquero Colgante 316Vicua 205-8vicuas 193, 194, 436Villa Amengual 317Villa Cerro Castillo 323-4Villa Cultural Huilquilemu

122Villa Grimaldi 61Villa OHiggins 332-3Villarrica 234-7, 235Via del Mar 101-5, 102-3vineyards, see wineriesVirgen de la Inmaculada

Concepcin 55visas 20, 452-3

viscacha 194volcanoes 34, 35-6, 435,

450Crater Morada del Diablo

345-6Crter Navidad 233Maunga Pu A Katiki 407Ojos del Salado 215Parque Nacional Pali

Aike 345-6Rano Raraku 407 Volcn Antuco 135Volcan Calbuco 268Volcn Chaitn 307, 309Volcn Descabezado 121Volcn Isluga 177Volcn Llaima 230, 231Volcn Lonquimay 233Volcn Osorno 268-9Volcn Parinacota 192Volcn Pomerape 192Volcn Puyehue 257Volcn Tolhuaca 233Volcn Villarrica 243, 245

volunteering 453

WW, the 355-6, 356-7walking, see hikingwalking tours 61-2water 448waterfalls

Cascada de la Virgen 322Cascada de las

Animas 83Cascadas Escondidas

307Salto de Huilo Huilo 253Salto de Las Chilcas 135 Salto del Laja 129, 134Salto del Torbellino 135Salto Grande 358Salto la Leona 118Saltos del Petrohu 270Velo de la Novia 118

weather 20, 25, 26-7, see also individual regions

websites 21, 427, 431, 438weights 449whale watching 287, 340,

345, 437whales 287, 299, 437wildflowers 215wildlife 22, 436-8, see also

individual specieswindsurfing 197wine 24, 429-31, 451

wine regionsCasablanca Valley 13,

105-7, 132Colchagua Valley 13,

111-15, 131, 132Maipo Valley 13, 80-1, 131Maule Valley 13, 119-21,

429wineries 430

Casa Donoso 119Catrala 107Cavas del Valle 212Emiliana (Casablanca

Valley) 107Emiliana (Colchagua

Valley) 112Estampa 112House of Morand 107Lapostolle 112Montes 112-13MontGras 112Via Wines 119Via Almaviva 81Via Aquitania 81Via Balduzzi 119Via Bisquertt 113Via Casa Silva 113Via Casas del Bosque

107Via Concha y Toro 81Via Cousio Macul 81Via de Martino 81Via Gillmore 119Via Indmita 107, 131Via J Bouchon 119Via Las Nias 112, 13Via Mar 107Via Matetic 107Via Santa Cruz 114Via Santa Rita 81Via Undurraga 81Via Veramonte 107Viu Manent 112William Cole Vineyards

107Wood, Andrs 434work 453

YYaghan people 382, 388Yaman people 388yoga 346

ZZapallar 106ziplining 126, 389zoos 56

478

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Kevin Raub Sur Chico, Chilo Kevin grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Mens Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock n roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. On this, his third run through Sur Chico and Chilo, he discovered through meticulous trial and error that Chilean craft beer has finally arrived! If there are any holes in his chapters, blame the beer! This is

Kevins 33rd Lonely Planet guide. Follow him on Twitter (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Lucas Vidgen Norte Grande, Norte Chico Lucas first gaped at northern Chiles wide open skies and gorgeous coastline back in 2003, and since then has made it a point of getting back whenever he can. He now lives in Guatemala and rambles around Latin America for Lonely Planet, covering destinations from Mexico to Argentine Patagonia. In his brief forays at home he publishes and occasionally works on Quetzaltenangos leading culture and nightlife

magazine, XelaWho.

Contributing Author Grant Phelps trained in the art of winemaking in his native New Zealand and embarked on a 10-year career as a flying winemaker, working harvests in seven different countries before experiencing a wine-fueled epiphany in Chile. He is currently chief winemaker for Via Casas del Bosque, in the Casablanca Valley. He wrote the Chilean Wine chapter.

Read more about Kevin at: www.lonelyplanet.com/members/kraub

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Carolyn McCarthy Coordinating Author, Northern Patagonia, Southern Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego For Carolyn, a trip to Patagonia is always a reminder of whats good in the world. For this trip she boarded eight ferries, explored Punta Arenas with snow flurries, punctured a tire and broke down on the Carretera Austral, crowdsourced car repairs, met hitchhikers and backpacked through Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni and Parque Nacional Patagonia. Her writing specializes in Latin America and

the US West. She has contributed to over 30 titles for Lonely Planet, including Panama, Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Argentina, Peru, Colorado, Southwest USA and national parks guides. She has also written for Outside, BBC Magazine, National Geographic and other publications. For more information, see www.carolynmccarthy.pressfolios.com or follow her on Instagram @masmerquen and Twitter @roamingMcC. Carolyn also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand Chile and Survival Guide sections.

Greg Benchwick Santiago, Middle Chile Greg first came to Chile in 2000 on a diesel-charged holiday from his job as a reporter at The Bolivian Times. Since that first trip, Greg has returned to Chile on a regular basis. For this edition, he finally got a chance to head south of Santiago and explore the vineyards, surf breaks and Andean hikes of Middle Chile. Greg has written speeches for the United Nations, interviewed Grammy Award winners and created dozens of videos and web

features for lonelyplanet.com. He is an expert on sustainable travel, international development, food, wine and having a good time.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Easter Island (Rapa Nui) Journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a fan of Polynesian history and culture. Hes made many trips to the Polynesian Triangle, including five to Easter Island. On this gig, he searched for the best-value accommodations and restaurants, and the most spectacular hike, and spent time on the field with local archaeologists. His favorite experiences included walking around Pennsula Poike and descending into the dead volcano

Rano Kau with a local expert. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles and writes for travel magazines.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 thats all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week theyd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tonys belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 983

10th edition Oct 2015ISBN 978 1 74220 780 3 Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Greg at: www.lonelyplanet.com/members/gbenchwick

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