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275275

WRITER THANKSAnthony HamA very big thank you to Tasmin Waby for sending me out into some of Australia’s most beautiful corners and for her commitment to good writing. Thanks also to Liam, Sticks, Mandy Dwyer and so many others who made my stay in the Northern Territory so mem-orable. And to my family who always keep the home fires burning – os quiero and I can’t wait to take you there next time.

Charles Rawlings-WayHuge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to all the helpful souls I met on the road in South Australia who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increasingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and made sure that Ione, Remy, Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, schooled, tucked-in and read-to.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Vineyard, Barossa Valley, Stefano Scata/4Corners ©

Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

276

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s South Australia & Northern Territory guidebook was researched and written by Anthony Ham and Charles Rawlings-Way. The 6th edition, Central Australia: Adelaide to Darwin, was researched and written by Charles, Meg Worby and Lindsay Brown. Lindsay also updated the Outback Environment chapter originally written by Dave Fuller, Kylie

Strelan and Dr Irene Watson. The 5th edition was written by the same team, with the added assistance of Paul Harding. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Tasmin WabyProduct Editors Hannah Cartmel, Shona GraySenior Cartographer Julie SheridanBook Designer Virginia Moreno

Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Melanie Dankel, Sandie Kestell, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Charlotte OrrAssisting Cartographer Hunor CsutorosCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Carolyn Boicos, Jennifer Carey, Daniel Corbett, Liz Heynes, Claire Naylor, Gabrielle Stefanos, Jeroen Wesselink, Janet Whiteway, Tracy Whitmey, Alison Young.

27 7

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAboriginal culture 20,

135, 174-5, 226-7, 235-9, 240-6, 248-9, see also galleries & museums

art buying 155-6, 191, 206-7, 245

bark painting 243-4contemporary

Indigenous art 175, 175

cultural centres 137, 163, 172, 199, 223

didgeridoos 245, 175dot painting 242-3, 175festivals 170, 177, 178,

175, 191, 194, 203, 219, 26, 174

films 237history 228, 238-9land 235-6, 248-9land management 250land rights 178, 233, 239media 237music 238Papunya Tula 240-1permits 176, 270rock art 135, 166, 185-7,

208, 223, 228, 241-2, 243

Stolen Generations 227, 238

storytelling 236tours 148, 158, 166-7,

173, 174, 202, 218treaty 227TV 237visual arts 15, 237,

240-6, 15accommodation 18, 256-7,

see also individual locations

houseboats 111

activities 24-7, see also individual activities

Adelaide 49, 52-76, 56-7, 62-3, 11, 19, 26

accommodation 52, 63-6activities 59-61climate 52drinking & nightlife 70-2emergency services 74entertainment 72-3festivals & events 61-3food 52, 66-70Glenelg 59, 65-6, 69-70,

71-2highlights 54-5internet access 74itineraries 58medical services 74North Adelaide 58, 65,

67-8, 71, 68-9Port Adelaide 59, 65-6,

69-70, 71-2shopping 10, 73-4sights 53-9tourist information 74tours 61travel seasons 52travel to/from 74-5travel within 75-6

Adelaide Fringe 24, 61Adelaide Hills 34, 76-81, 77Adelaide Oval 58Adelaide Zoo 58Admirals Arch 97air travel 265, 268, 276,

see also scenic flightsalcohol 19Aldgate 78-9Alexandra Cave 118Alice Springs 39, 198-208,

200-1, 205, 210-11accommodation 203-4activities 201-2drinking & nightlife 206entertainment 206festivals & events 203food 204-6

medical services 207shopping 206-8sights 199-201tourist information 207tours 202travel to/from 207-8travel within 208

American River 93-4Angaston 105-6animals 21, 93, 250-2

Caranbirini Conservation Reserve 196

crocodiles 143, 147, 254Kakadu National Park

166, 169kangaroos 92-3, 97,

216, 13lorikeets 31penguins 93, 95, 122Pungalina-Seven Emu

Wildlife Sanctuary 197reptiles 96, 199, 251, 21turtles 177whale watching 25,

86, 128aquariums 143, 146, 162Araluen Arts Centre 199area codes 262Arkaroola Wilderness

Sanctuary 136-7Arltunga Historical Reserve

208Arnhem Highway 159-61Arnhem Land 173-8, 241-2,

248permits 176

art galleries, see galleries & museums

arts 236-8Aboriginal arts 236-8,

240-6Aboriginal music 238Aboriginal visual arts 15,

2406, 337, 15bark painting 243-4contemporary art 244-5dot painting 242-3, 175

festivals 22, 24, 61, 148, 164, 178, 203

music 238Papunya Tula 240-1performing arts 236-7rock art 135, 166, 185-7,

208, 223, 228, 241-2, 243

ATMs 259-60Auburn 106-7Australian Rules football

58, 61, 73Ayers Rock, see Uluru Ayers Rock Resort,

see Yulara

Bbabysitting 47B&Bs 256Banrock Station 111bargaining 19bark painting 243-4Barmera 111-12Barossa Valley 33, 102-6,

104basketball 73Bat Cave 118Batchelor 162-3bathrooms 263Bathurst Island 157Battery Hill Mining Centre

195beaches 20

Barmera 111 Boomer Beach 87Christies Beach 84Coorong National Park

116Darwin 143-4, 147Glenelg 59Goolwa 88Gulf St Vincent 84-5Kangaroo Island 89, 95Lameroo Beach 143Marion Bay 122Maslin Beach 84Port Elliot 87

Index

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278

IND

EX B-F

beaches continued Port Lincoln 125Port Willunga 84Robe 115safety 261Seal Bay Conservation

Park 96Snelling Beach 95, 21Victor Harbor 86

beer 37, 71, see also breweries

Berri 113Berry Springs 162Beswick (Wugularr) 191bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Rocking Horse 80birds 250-2Birdsville Track 45, 141birdwatching 251

Alice Springs 202Caranbirini

Conservation Reserve 196

Charles Darwin National Park 149

Djukbinj National Park 160

Ellery Creek Big Hole 210

Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve 160

Kingscote 94Lorella Springs

Wilderness Park 195Uluru 223Younghusband

Peninsula 116-7Birdwood 80Black Point 122Blinman 136Blue Lake 117boat travel 267, 268boat trips

Adelaide 60Darwin 148Goolwa 88Kakadu 167Nitmiluk 185Twin Falls 171

books 192, 226Borroloola 193-4Brachina Gorge

Geological Trail 135breweries 37, see also

beerAdelaide 59

Barossa Valley 104Goolwa 88Kangaroo Island 94Lobethal 80McLaren Vale 81-2Murtho 114Myponga 85Prancing Pony 81Robe 115

budget 17Buley Rockhole 163Bunyeroo-Brachina-Aroona

Scenic Drive 135bus travel 266, 268-9bushfires 261bushwalking, see walkingbusiness hours 17, 260

CCahill’s Crossing 169camel races 203camel rides

Alice Springs 202Birdsville & Strzelecki

Tracks 141Oodnadatta Track 141Uluru 218

camping 256canoeing & kayaking 181

Adelaide 61Berri 113Goolwa 88Mannum 110Nitmiluk National Park

185Paringa 114

Cape Jervis 85car travel 266, 269-74

hazards 273insurance 271Northern Territory 266road rules 274outback 44South Australia 266

caravan parks 256Carpentaria Highway 193Carrickalinga 85caves

Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park 190

Kelly Hill Conservation Park 97

Mount Gambier 118Naracoorte Caves

National Park 118Ceduna 128cell phones 262Chamberlain, Lindy 231,

233

cheese 35-6, 34children, travel with 47-8

Adelaide 60churches 138-9Clare 107-8Clare Valley 33, 106-8Cleland Conservation

Park 79climate 16, 24, 25, 26,

27, 38-9climate change 265Cobourg Peninsula 177-9Coffin Bay 127Coffin Bay National

Park 127colonisation 229-30, 239conservation parks, see

nature reserves & parks

contemporary art 244-5Coober Pedy 138-40, 139Cooinda 172Coonawarra 34, 115, 119Coopers Brewery 59Coorong National Park

116-17Copley 136-7Corroboree Rock

Conservation Reserve 209

costs 19Crafers 79credit cards 260cricket 58, 65, 73crime 261crocodiles 143, 147, 254cruises, see boat tripscurrency 260Currency Creek 34customs regulations 257Cutta Cutta Caves Nature

Park 190cycling 268

Adelaide 59-60Alice Springs 202Flinders Ranges 132-3McLaren Vale 82Melrose 133outback, the 40Riesling Trail 109Victor Harbor 86

Cyclone Tracy 230, 234

DDaly River 164-5Daly Waters 194-5dance 236-7dangers, see safetyDarwin 50, 143-57, 146-7,

150-1, 158-9

accommodation 149-53activities 147-8drinking & nightlife 155entertainment 155festivals & events 148-9food 153-4medical services 156shopping 155-7sights 143tourist information 156tours 148travel to/from 156-7travel within 157

Death Rock 134debit cards 260deserts 247Devils Marbles 197-8disabilities, travellers

with 263diving

Adelaide 61Kangaroo Island 89

dot painting 242-3, 175drinks, see beer, winedriving, see car travelDudley Peninsula 92-3

EEast MacDonnell Ranges

208-9Eastern Arnhem Land 178Edith Falls 184Edithburgh 122electricity 258Ellery Creek Big Hole 210Elsey National Park 190emergencies 17Emily Gap 209, 212Emu Bay 95encephalitis 255environmental issues

227, 233Ernest Giles Road 215etiquette 19events 24-7Ewaninga 214exchange rates 17Eyre Peninsula 124-8, 126

Ffarmstays 256-7fauna, see animalsfederation 231-2feral animals 251-2festivals 24-7

Aboriginal 170, 177, 178, 175, 191, 194, 219, 174

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

279IN

DEX F-K

Adelaide 61-3Adelaide Fringe 24, 61arts 22, 24, 61, 148,

164, 178, 203Beer Can Regatta 149Christmas Pageant 63Cornish 121Darwin Festival 148food 82, 102, 106,

113, 128music 83, 111, 181, 203tuna 125wine 76-7, 106, 113

films 226, 237Finke Gorge National

Park 213Finke Track 46fishing 27

Arnhem Land 173Borroloola 193-4Cobourg Peninsula 177Daly River 164-5Eyre Peninsula 124Kangaroo Island 89Port Lincoln 125

Fleurieu Peninsula 81-9, 82

flights, see scenic flights

Flinders Chase National Park 97-8

Flinders Ranges 132-7, 132

Flinders Ranges National Park 135-6

Florence Falls 163Fogg Dam Conservation

Reserve 160food 19, 33, 35-7, 258,

see also individual locations

cheese 35-6, 34festivals 82, 102, 106,

113, 128fruit 37honey 36nuts 37seafood 36, 36

football 58, 61, 73, see also soccer

Four Corners 226, 234fruit picking 264

Ggalleries & museums

Araluen Arts Centre 199Art Gallery of South

Australia 53Bay Discovery Centre

59

Buku Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre & Museum 178

Djilpin Arts 181Encounter Coast

Discovery Centre & Museum 86

Ghunmarn Culture Centre 191

Hahndorf Academy 78Injalak Arts & Crafts

Centre 176Jila Arts 207Mannum Dock Museum

of River History 110Mary MacKillop

Interpretive Centre 119

Mason Gallery 143Mbantua Fine Art

Gallery 155, 175Mbantua Gallery 206Merrepen Arts 164Mimi Aboriginal Art &

Craft 184Moonta Mines Museum

122Murray Bridge Regional

Gallery 109Museum & Art Gallery

of the Northern Territory 147

Mutonia Sculpture Park 141

Nambara Arts & Crafts Aboriginal Gallery 178

National Motor Museum 80

Ngukurr Arts Centre 192

Ngurratjuta Iltja Ntjarra 207

Nomad Art Gallery 155Old Timers Mine 138Outstation Gallery 155Papunya Tula Artists

206Riddoch Art Gallery 118Rocky’s Hall of Fame

Pioneers Museum 111South Australian

Maritime Museum 59South Australian

Museum 53South Australian Whale

Centre 86Steamtown Heritage

Rail Centre 133Talapi 206Tjanpi Desert Weavers

206

Top Didj Cultural Experience & Art Gallery 181

Umoona Opal Mine & Museum 138

Wallaroo Heritage & Nautical Museum 121

Waralungku Arts Centre 193

Warlukurlangu Art Centre 193

Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre 172

gardens, see parks & gardens

Garma Festival 27, 178, 26geography 166Ghan, the 13, 266-7,

274, 13Ghunmarn Culture Centre

191giardiasis 255Glenelg 59gold rush 230Goolwa 88-9Great Australian Bight

Commonwealth Marine Reserve 128

Gregory’s Tree 186Gulf St Vincent 84-5Gumeracha 80Gunbalanya (Oenpelli)

176-7Gunlom 173

HHahndorf 77-8Hawker 134-5Head of Bight 128health 254-5, 258helicopter flights, see

scenic flightsHenbury Meteorite

Craters 215Henley-on-Todd Regatta

27Heritage Blinman Mine

136Hermannsburg (Ntaria)

213Heysen Trail 85hiking, see walkinghistory 238-9

20th century 232-421st century 234Aboriginal history 228,

238-9Aboriginal land rights

178, 233, 239colonisation 229-30,

239

federation 231-2gold rush 230immigration 230-1wheat boom 231WWI 232WWII 230, 232

hitching 274holidays 260-1honey 36horse riding 97hostels 17, 257hot springs 141

Bitter Springs 190-1Coward Springs 141Mataranka 190-1

hotels 17, 257houseboats 111

IIga Warta 137Ikara 14, 135, 15indigenous culture, see

Aboriginal cultureIngalalla Falls 85Innes National Park

122, 124Inneston 122insects 255insurance 259internet access 259internet resources 17

accommodation 257disabilities, travellers

with 263outback, the 41

Intervention, the 227itineraries 28-32, 28, 29,

30, 32

JJabiru 170-1Jawoyn Valley 185jellyfish 254Jessie Gap 209Jim Jim Falls 171-2Judbarra/Gregory

National Park 187joy flights, see scenic

flights

KKakadu National Park

8, 166-73, 242, 248, 168, 8

Kangaroo Island 12, 34, 89-98, 229, 90, 13, 21, 31

kangaroos 92-3, 97, 216

280

IND

EX K-O

Kanyaka 134Kata Tjuta 217, 224, 189,

224, 188Katherine 181-4, 182Katherine Gorge, see

Nitmiluk National Parkkayaking, see canoeing &

kayakingKeep River National

Park 187Kelly Hill Conservation

Park 97Kidman Trail 83Kings Canyon,

see Watarrka National Park

Kingscote 94-5Kingston-On-Murray 111

LLake Albert 117Lake Bonney 111Lake Eyre 141land permits, see permitsland rights 178, 233, 239Langhorne Creek 34language 16Larapinta Trail 204Larrimah 187Lasseter Highway 46,

215-18Laura 133lawn bowls 60legal matters 259Leigh Creek 136-7Leliyn (Edith Falls) 184LGBTI travellers 259Limestone Coast 114-19Limmen National Park 192Lincoln National Park 125Litchfield National Park

14, 163-4, 14Little Sahara 96lizards 96, 199, 251, 21Lobethal 80lorikeets 31Loxton 112-13

MMabo High Court decision

233MacDonnell Ranges 208-

13, 189Maguk 172Mannum 110

maps 259Marion Bay 122markets 23

Adelaide 10, 53, 73, 74, 11, 34

Barossa Farmers Market 106

Berri 113Darwin 154, 15Kangaroo Island 92Stirling 80Willunga Farmers

Market 83Marree 141Mary River 160-1Mataranka 190-1Mawson Trail 268mazes 107Mbantua Fine Art Gallery

155, 175McLaren Vale 33-4, 81-3measures 260media 237medical services 258Melrose 133Melville Island 157Meningie 116-17meningococcal disease

255Mereenie Loop Road

41, 45microbreweries 37Mindil Beach Sunset

Market 154, 15mining 122, 138, 178,

193, 195, 208, 226-7, 231-4, 235

Mintaro 107mobile phones 262Monarto Zoo 109money 259-60

ATMs 259-60bargaining 19costs 17credit cards 260discount cards 257tipping 19

Moomba-Strzelecki Track 141

Moonta 122motels 17, 257motorcycle travel, see car

travelMount Gambier 117-19mountain biking

Adelaide 60, 61Alice Springs 202Flinders Ranges 132-3Melrose 133

Mt Barker 81

Mt Lofty 79Mt Remarkable National

Park 133Murphy’s Haystacks 127Murray Bridge 109Murray River 109-14Murray Valley encephalitis

255museums, see galleries &

museumsmusic 238

festivals 83, 111, 181, 203

Mutonia Sculpture Park 141Myponga 85

NNamatjira, Albert 241

galleries 199, 206Hermannsburg 213

Namatjira Drive 210-13Naracoorte Caves

National Park 118Nathan River Road 45national parks 38-41, see

also nature parks & reserves

Coffin Bay 127Coorong 116-17Elsey 190Finke Gorge 213Flinders Chase 97-8Flinders Ranges 135-6Innes 122, 124Judbarra/Gregory 187Kakadu 8, 166-73, 242,

248, 168, 8Keep River 187Limmen 192Lincoln 125Litchfield 14, 163-4, 14Mt Remarkable 133Naracoorte Caves 118Nitmiluk 10, 181, 11Uluru-Kata Tjuta 8, 189,

217-24, 9, 189Vulkathunha-Gammon

Ranges 137Watarrka 12, 189, 216-

17, 12, 189West MacDonnell

209-12nature parks & reserves,

see also national parksArltunga Historical

Reserve 208Berry Springs Nature

Park 162Cleland Conservation

Park 79

Corroboree Rock Conservation Reserve 209

Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park 109

Deep Creek Conservation Park 85

Emily Gap 209, 212Fogg Dam Conservation

Reserve 160Great Australian Bight

Commonwealth Marine Reserve 128

Jessie Gap 209Kelly Hill Conservation

Park 97Little Sahara 96N’Dhala Gorge Nature

Park 208Rainbow Valley

Conservation Reserve 215

Ruby Gap Nature Park 208

Seal Bay Conservation Park 96

Strzelecki Regional Reserve 141

Trephina Gorge Nature Park 208

Troubridge Island Conservation Park 122

Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park 165

N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park 208

newspapers 237Nitmiluk National Park 10,

181, 184, 11Normanville 85Nourlangie 171Nuriootpa 105nuts 37Nyinkka Nyunyu 195

OOchre Pits 211Oenpelli 176-7Old Andado Track 46, 5Old South Road 214Olgas, see Kata TjutaOodnadatta 140Oodnadatta Track 13, 45,

140-1, 13, 40opals 138opening hours 17, 260organised tours, see toursOrmiston Gorge 211Ormiston Pound 212Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

281IN

DEX O

-Voutback, the 38-46,

188-9, 247-52, 42-3, 45, 188-9

climate 38-9cycling 40driving 44facilities 40highways 46internet resources 41Northern Territory 50,

179-224permits 46road trains 41safety 44South Australia 50,

137-41tours 41tracks 41, 45-6transport 39travel seasons 38-9

PPadthaway 34Papunya Tula 240-1Papunya Tula Artists

(gallery) 206Parachilna 136Paringa 113-14parks & gardens

Adelaide 53, 56Alice Springs 199Darwin 143Mt Lofty 79Port Augusta 124

passports 265Penfolds Magill Estate

Winery 59penguins 93, 95, 122Penneshaw 92-3Penola 119permits 176, 270Peterborough 133Pimba 138Pine Creek 165-7Planehenge 141planning

budgeting 17calendar of events

24-7children, travel with

47-8first-time visitors 18-19internet resources 17itineraries 28-32, 28,

29, 30, 32outback travel 38-46South Australia &

Northern Territory basics 16-17

South Australia & Northern Territory regions 49-50

travel seasons 16, 24, 25, 26, 27

plants 252Plenty Highway 46Pondalowie Bay 122population 227Port Augusta 124-5Port Elliot 87-8Port Lincoln 125-7Port Pirie 133Port Vincent 122postal services 260public holidays 260-1pubs 23

Qquarantine regulations 269Quorn 134

Rradio 237Rainbow Valley

Conservation Reserve 215

Rapid Bay 85Ravine des Casoars 98Red Centre Way 43, 214Remarkable Rocks 98Renmark 113-14Riesling Trail 109Riverland 34road rules 274road trains 41roadhouses 18, 19, 40, 256Robe 115-16rock art 174-5, 241-2

Arnhem Land 173Flinders Ranges

National Park 135Kakadu National Park

166Nourlangie 171Ubirr 168-9

Rocky River 97Roper Highway 191-3Ross River fever 255royal commission 226Royal Flying Doctor

Service 143Ruby Gap Nature Park 208

SSacred Canyon Cultural

Heritage Site 135safety 261

Sandover Highway 46Savannah Way 186, 193scenic flights

Kakadu National Park 167

Lake Eyre 141Limmen National Park

193Nitmiluk National Park

181, 185Watarrka National

Park 216Uluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 218School of the Air 181seafood 36, 36Seal Bay Conservation

Park 96Second Valley 85senior travellers 257-8Serpentine Gorge 210sharks 254Simpson Desert 46Simpsons Gap 209smoking 19snakes 251, 254Snelling Beach 21soccer 73Spaceship 138spiders 254St Francis 128St Peter 128Standley Chasm 212Stansbury 122STDs 255Stenhouse Bay 122stingrays 254Stirling 78-9Stolen Generations 227,

238Streaky Bay 127-8Strzelecki Regional

Reserve 141Strzelecki Track 45, 141Stuart Highway 39, 46Stuart, John McDouall 231sunburn 255surfing

Kangaroo Island 89Port Elliot 87Robe 115-16

Swan Reach 110swimming 254-5

Adelaide 61

TTablelands Highway 193Tanami Track 46, 198Tanunda 102-5

taxes 260telephone services 261-2Tennant Creek 195-7Territory Wildlife Park 162theatre 236-7thermal pools, see hot

springsThevenard 128Thorny Devil lizards 21Timber Creek 186-7time 262tipping 19Tiwi Islands 157-9Tjungu Festival 25toilets 263Top End 50, 142-78tourist information 263tours 41, 174, 263,

see also individual locations

Aboriginal culture 148, 158, 166-7, 173, 174, 202, 218

outback 41train travel 266-7

Ghan, the 13, 266-7, 274, 13

travel to/from South Australia & Northern Territory 265-7

travel within South Australia & Northern Territory 267-74

Trephina Gorge Nature Park 208

trekking, see walkingTroubridge Island

Conservation Park 122TV 237Twin Falls 171-2

UUbirr 167-70, 8Uluru 39, 189, 217, 222-4,

223, 188-9Uluru-Kata Tjuta National

Park 8, 189, 217-24, 9, 189

Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park 165

Vvaccinations 258Valley of the Winds 224Victor Harbor 86-7Victoria Highway 40, 46Victoria River Crossing

186viral encephalitis 255visas 259, 263-4, 265

282

IND

EX V- Z

volunteering 249, 264Vulkathunha-Gammon

Ranges National Park 137

WWaikerie 110-11walking 23

Adelaide 59-60Brachina Gorge

Geological Trail 135Cape Jervis 85Flinders Chase National

Park 97-8Flinders Ranges 133Flinders Ranges

National Park 135Kakadu National Park

169Kangaroo Island 89,

97-8McLaren Vale 82Nitmiluk National Park

185Nourlangie 171Renmark 114Riesling Trail 109Valley of the Winds 224

Wallaroo 121-2Watarrka National Park

12, 189, 216-17, 217, 12, 189

water 255waterfalls

Gunlom 173Hindmarsh 85Ingalalla 85Jim Jim Falls 171-2Kakadu 166Litchfield 14, 163-4, 14

Maguk 172-3Mannum 110Twin Falls 171-2

We of the Never Never 192weather 16, 24, 25, 26,

27, 38-9Adelaide 52Alice Springs 179Ceduna 120Darwin 142Tanunda 99Quorn 129

weights 260West MacDonnell Ranges

209-13whale watching 25, 86,

128wheat boom 231Whitlam, Gough 227wildlife 21, 93, 249-52

Caranbirini Conservation Reserve 196

crocodiles 143, 147, 254Kakadu National Park

166, 169kangaroos 92-3, 97,

216, 13lorikeets 31penguins 93, 95, 122Pungalina-Seven Emu

Wildlife Sanctuary 197

reptiles 96, 199, 251, 21turtles 177whale watching 25,

86, 128wildlife centres, see zoos

& wildlife centresWilliam Creek 140, 23

Willunga 83-4Wilpena Pound 14, 135, 15wine 33-5

festivals 76-7, 106, 113Riesling Trail 109

wine regions 10, 20accommodation 34-5Adelaide Hills 34Barossa Valley 33,

102-6Clare Valley 33, 106-8Coonawarra 34, 115, 119Currency Creek 34Kangaroo Island 34Langhorne Creek 34McLaren Vale 33-4,

81-2, 84, 10Padthaway 34Riverland 34travel seasons 35

wineries 33Alpha Box & Dice 84Balnaves of Coonawarra

115Banrock Station 111Coriole 84d’Arenberg 84Deviation Road 79Henschke 103Knappstein 108Lane, the 78Majella Wines 115National Wine Centre of

Australia 56-8Penfolds 103Penfolds Magill Estate

Winery 59Peter Lehmann Wines

103

Pike & Joyce 80Pikes 108Rockford Wines 103Rymill Coonawarra 115SC Pannell 84Sevenhill Cellars 108Shut The Gate 108Skillogalee 108St Hallett 103Wirra Wirra 84Wynns Coonawarra

Estate 115, 35Zema Estate 115

WOMADelaide 24, 61, 26women travellers 264Woomera 138work 264WWI 232WWII 232, 234

YYankalilla 85Yellow Water 172Yorke Peninsula 121-4Younghusband Peninsula

116-17Yulara 218-22, 221

Zzoos & wildlife centres

Adelaide 58Adelaide Hills 79Copley 136-7Kangaroo Island 96Murray Bridge 109

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

283N

OTES

284

NO

TES

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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot BathsShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

Diving/SnorkellingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Craigie is a Gamilaori and Anaiwon woman from northern New South Wales. She is a freelance writer and cultural consultant and has extensive experience in Aboriginal Affairs. Cathy contributed to the Aboriginal Australia chapter.

Brenda L Croft was born in Perth and now lives on the south coast of New South Wales. She is a Senior Research Fellow at the University of NSW. Brenda is from the Gurindji, Malngin and Mudpurra peoples in the NT on her paternal side, and has Anglo-Australian, German and Irish heritage on her maternal side. She has been involved in the arts and cultural sectors for three decades as an artist, arts administrator, curator, writer, academic and consultant. Brenda contributed to the Indigenous Visual Arts chapter.

David Fuller & Kylie Strelan wrote the Outback Environment chapter. David has worked for more than 20 years as a parks and wildlife ranger, and Kylie is an editor with an environmental consultancy. They lived for more than 15 years in national parks throughout the Northern Territory, including Garig Gunak Barlu, the West MacDonnells and Nitmiluk. With a passion for road trips (and family to visit in Adelaide), David and Kylie have driven the length of the Stuart Hwy more times than they care to recall.

Professor Irene Watson wrote the section headed The Land & Indigenous Peoples in the Outback Environment chapter, first published in Lonely Planet’s Aboriginal Australia & the Torres Strait Islands: Guide to Indigenous Australia. Professor Watson is now working with the University of South Australia. Professor Watson writes: ‘I am a Tanganekald and Meintangk woman; my ancestors are the sovereign peoples of the Coorong and the southeast region of South Australia.’

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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541537th edition – November 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 151 9© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAnthony HamNorthern Territory Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic, the Middle East and Australia. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. Anthony also contributed to the Indigenous Art & Culture and Ultimate Outback themed spreads.

Charles Rawlings-WaySouth Australia Charles is a veteran travel writer who has penned 30-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Toronto, Sydney, Tasmania, New Zealand, the South Pacific and Australia – and numerous articles. After dabbling in the dark arts of architecture, cartography, project management and busking for some years, Charles hit

the road for Lonely Planet in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since. Charles also contributed to the Plan, Understand and Survival sections.

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