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Beer is a drink as old as mankind—and still a favorite today, with more people than ever appreciating craft brews and unique flavors. Beer Sommelier takes readers on a visually stunning world tour of the beer-making process, presenting principal types from ten various traditions. Through detailed profiles and splendid photos, aficionados will be better able to understand and appreciate the subtle differences that distinguish each style.
Citation preview
[email protected] 6 01/07/14 11:21
BEER SOMMELIER6
CONTENTS
PREFACE PAGE 10
THE ORIGINS OF BEER PAGE 14
Beer B.C. PAGE 15
Beer A.D. PAGE 16
Industrial beer PAGE 20
The renaissance of beer PAGE 22
WHAT IS BEER? PAGE 24
THE RAW MATERIALS PAGE 26
Water PAGE 26
Yeast (and fermentation) PAGE 26
Barley malt and other cereals PAGE 29
Hops PAGE 30
HOW BEER IS MADE PAGE 32
The hot side PAGE 32
Fermentation PAGE 35
Spontaneous fermentation PAGE 38
Top fermentation PAGE 40
Bottom fermentation PAGE 42
SERVING BEER PAGE 46
Draught beer PAGE 49
The hand pump PAGE 50
From the cask by gravity PAG. 52
Bottled beer PAGE 56
THE MAJOR COUNTRIES AND THE MAJOR STYLES OF BEER PAGE 70
BELGIUM PAGE 72
SAISON PAGE 74
BIÈRE BLANCHE PAGE 76
BELGIAN GOLDEN STRONG ALE PAGE 78
FLEMISH RED ALE PAGE 80
OUD BRUIN OR FLANDERS BROWN PAGE 82
001-013 inizio_ING.indd 6 18/07/14 11:32
[email protected] 7 01/07/14 11:21
BEER SOMMELIER 77
DUBBEL AND TRIPEL PAGE 84
LAMBIC PAGE 86
ENGLAND PAGE 88
ENGLISH BARLEY WINE PAGE 90
ENGLISH IPA PAGE 92
ORDINARY BITTER PAGE 94
BROWN PORTER PAGE 96
MILD PAGE 98
RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT PAGE 100
IRELAND PAGE 102
IRISH RED ALE PAGE 104
DRY STOUT PAGE 106
SCOTLAND PAGE 108
STRONG SCOTCH ALE PAGE 110
GERMANY PAGE 112
MÜNCHNER HELL PAGE 114
MÜNCHNER DUNKEL PAGE 116
MÄRZEN/OKTOBERFEST PAGE 118
SCHWARZBIER PAGE 120
TRADITIONAL BOCK PAGE 122
KÖLSCH PAGE 124
BERLINER WEISSE PAGE 126
WEIZENBIER (WEISSBIER) PAGE 128
GOSE PAGE 130
CZECH REPUBLIC PAGE 132
BOHEMIAN PILSNER PAGE 134
AUSTRIA PAGE 136
VIENNA LAGER PAGE 138
UNITED STATES PAGE 140
AMERICAN PALE ALE (APA) PAGE 142
STANDARD AMERICAN LAGER PAGE 144
IMPERIAL IPA PAGE 146
[email protected] 10 01/07/14 11:21
[email protected] 11 01/07/14 11:21
BEER SOMMELIER 11
Beer, which is now becoming a fashion phenomenon, is the is oldest and most widespread fermented
product in the world.
Today we hear about it everywhere, from the United States to Australia and Japan, and of course throughout
Europe. People are asking for craft beers in pubs, they are talking about micro-breweries, and they are enjoying
beers that have amazing, original flavors and remarkable aromas.
It is a new phenomenon that has a twin character: that of innovation and tradition. The first originated in the
United States in the late 1970s, while the second came from Great Britain, where the enthusiasts of CAMRA
(the Campaign for Real Ale) are committed to recovering the Anglo-Saxon tradition that had gone missing.
Micro-breweries had been spreading in the United States since the 1970s and in the late 1990s small groups
of pioneers elsewhere began producing beers. New breweries opened in Belgium next to the existing ones;
Scandinavia and Denmark gave further impetus to micro-breweries, Italy began producing artisanal beers and
the Czech Republic, liberated from the Iron Curtain, contributed to renewing its traditions. So the movement
spread throughout the world, from north to south, from east to west.
Of course such beers have always existed, but they were taken for granted and dropped into oblivion, leaving
only commercial lagers that were always very similar with bland colors and flavors. Without demonizing
these consumer products, it is worth remembering that beer is a living product, able to stimulate the senses
and to tell a story, that of the brewer with his pitcher and of the land where he grew up and works, and to do
this, all that is needed it to learn to “listen.”
This book is a first step in a journey to becoming knowledgable about the brewing world.
I hope that for you Gambrinus’s passion for drinking will be like a vision on the road to Damascus. Never
forget that beer is the third (or fourth, or fifth…) friend at the table when you are chatting, perhaps in a pub
in the evening, and that it knows how to stand on the sidelines without being irritating, while giving great
satisfaction with every sip and, if not drunk to excess, it will also help the conversation flow.
Cheers!
Andrea Camaschella
PREFACE
001-013 inizio_ING.indd 11 18/07/14 11:40
[email protected] 112 01/07/14 11:57
112 THE MAJOR COUNTRIES AND THE MAJOR STYLES OF BEER
Germany has a very ancient brewing tradition but it has also imposed on the world the modern Pale Lager
beers, based on production techniques developed in its industrial breweries. In spite of the Bavarian Purity
Law imposed on all the States of the Federation, which remained in force until the end of the 20th century, the
country has developed a great variety of types of beers and various exceptions to the Purity Law. This variety
can be explained by the region being made up of numerous small principalities, each with its own laws and
traditions. So each area and each town has a unique repository of beers with deep historical roots.
In Bavaria we find the legendary wheat beers, the Weissbier (white beers) or Weizenbier (wheat beers) that
are characterized by the phenol of the yeast and the rush of wheat malt. There are also beers in the Hell style
that could be described as masterpieces of simplicity, more so than the Märzen beers that are drunk in vast
quantities during the Oktoberfest held every year in Munich (except during time of war or other catastrophes).
This event consists of a sort of amusement park with enormous structures housing the city’s breweries and
attracting millions of visitors including numerous foreigners.
Traveling slightly further north, we find that the ancient tradition of the Zoigl beers is still very much alive;
these are beers produced by a few families that over the centuries have acquired the right to brewing in the
town’s communal brewery. This beer is then sold directly at the brewer’s home, sometimes in the living room
transformed into a kind of pub, and sometimes in a special premises set up like a “Gasthaus,” a kind of inn or
wine bar that also serves food.
Besides Munich, there are other large cities in Germany that have left their own individual mark on beer styles,
such as Dortmund with its Dortmunder, the local response to Hell and Pils.
Cologne too has a very strong brewing tradition that could be described as a counter-trend compared to the rest
of the country, with a top-fermenting beer, Kölsch, that is pale, clear and with a low alcohol content that can
only be produced within the walls of the city. It is consumed directly in the pubs attached to the brewery, often
served straight from the barrels, its low carbonation making it easy to serve.
A few miles from Cologne is Düsseldorf which with its Alt, amber-colored beers again top-fermented, attracts
and seduces beer enthusiasts. One of the main avenues of the city is lined with traditional breweries that offer
only this beer, produced on site, and its more alcoholic winter version. Here too it is possible to eat traditional
dishes accompanied by this low-alcohol beer that with its lightly-toasted notes never disappoints.
Not far from Cologne and Dusseldorf, the city of Bonn has responded with the Bonsch beer, a beer that is
however much less interesting than the two previous ones: it seems to have tried to distinguish itself from the
Cologne beer by producing one that is too simple.
In Berlin and generally in the former East Germany, most of the traditional beers have been threatened by the more
commercial beers that are more profitable. Berliner Weiss has survived with difficulty and today it is enjoying a
discreet revival thanks the efforts of many foreign brewers who have relaunched it, although in the capital it has
always been possible to enjoy these slightly acid beers, perhaps with woodruff syrup or some other fruit syrup
to tone down its acidity. Further south, in Leipzig, Gose beers seem to have been rediscovered recently; these
are traditional beers produced in the nearby city of Goslar where this very unusual beer is produced with salted
water, wheat and coriander; today it is very famous and imitated in many parts of the world.
GERMANY
[email protected] 112 01/07/14 11:57
112 THE MAJOR COUNTRIES AND THE MAJOR STYLES OF BEER
Germany has a very ancient brewing tradition but it has also imposed on the world the modern Pale Lager
beers, based on production techniques developed in its industrial breweries. In spite of the Bavarian Purity
Law imposed on all the States of the Federation, which remained in force until the end of the 20th century, the
country has developed a great variety of types of beers and various exceptions to the Purity Law. This variety
can be explained by the region being made up of numerous small principalities, each with its own laws and
traditions. So each area and each town has a unique repository of beers with deep historical roots.
In Bavaria we find the legendary wheat beers, the Weissbier (white beers) or Weizenbier (wheat beers) that
are characterized by the phenol of the yeast and the rush of wheat malt. There are also beers in the Hell style
that could be described as masterpieces of simplicity, more so than the Märzen beers that are drunk in vast
quantities during the Oktoberfest held every year in Munich (except during time of war or other catastrophes).
This event consists of a sort of amusement park with enormous structures housing the city’s breweries and
attracting millions of visitors including numerous foreigners.
Traveling slightly further north, we find that the ancient tradition of the Zoigl beers is still very much alive;
these are beers produced by a few families that over the centuries have acquired the right to brewing in the
town’s communal brewery. This beer is then sold directly at the brewer’s home, sometimes in the living room
transformed into a kind of pub, and sometimes in a special premises set up like a “Gasthaus,” a kind of inn or
wine bar that also serves food.
Besides Munich, there are other large cities in Germany that have left their own individual mark on beer styles,
such as Dortmund with its Dortmunder, the local response to Hell and Pils.
Cologne too has a very strong brewing tradition that could be described as a counter-trend compared to the rest
of the country, with a top-fermenting beer, Kölsch, that is pale, clear and with a low alcohol content that can
only be produced within the walls of the city. It is consumed directly in the pubs attached to the brewery, often
served straight from the barrels, its low carbonation making it easy to serve.
A few miles from Cologne is Düsseldorf which with its Alt, amber-colored beers again top-fermented, attracts
and seduces beer enthusiasts. One of the main avenues of the city is lined with traditional breweries that offer
only this beer, produced on site, and its more alcoholic winter version. Here too it is possible to eat traditional
dishes accompanied by this low-alcohol beer that with its lightly-toasted notes never disappoints.
Not far from Cologne and Dusseldorf, the city of Bonn has responded with the Bonsch beer, a beer that is
however much less interesting than the two previous ones: it seems to have tried to distinguish itself from the
Cologne beer by producing one that is too simple.
In Berlin and generally in the former East Germany, most of the traditional beers have been threatened by the more
commercial beers that are more profitable. Berliner Weiss has survived with difficulty and today it is enjoying a
discreet revival thanks the efforts of many foreign brewers who have relaunched it, although in the capital it has
always been possible to enjoy these slightly acid beers, perhaps with woodruff syrup or some other fruit syrup
to tone down its acidity. Further south, in Leipzig, Gose beers seem to have been rediscovered recently; these
are traditional beers produced in the nearby city of Goslar where this very unusual beer is produced with salted
water, wheat and coriander; today it is very famous and imitated in many parts of the world.
GERMANY
[email protected] 113 01/07/14 18:32
113THE MAJOR COUNTRIES AND THE MAJOR STYLES OF BEER
Franconia, the northernmost part of Bavaria, is perhaps the most fascinating region for a beer enthusiast, where
small family brewers make beer following ancient recipes in outbuildings behind their inns. In and around
Bamberg, the brewing capital as well as a splendid city, miraculously spared during the bombing raids of the
Second World War, there are still a large number of historic breweries that produce local beers, unique of
their kind and based on ancient recipes. It was in Bamberg that Rauchbier was born, those smoky beers that
have survived here and are copied and admired today throughout the world. In the taverns annexed to these
breweries, vast amounts are drunk of whatever beer is available, according to the season: Fasten (Easter beers),
Märzen, Bock, Doppelbock but above all Keller Bier, usually not filtered, well matured in the cellar, Land Bier,
and Ungespundet (which in fact means “not filtered”) are some of the masterpieces created by these brewers,
each one so very simple and yet all so very different from each other.
In smaller villages the choice of where to go to drink a beer is limited if there is only one brewery, but even
where there are two or more, it is a tradition that families only patronize one of them. The head of the family
will have chosen it for himself and for the generations to come. In summer the larger breweries open their
Biergarten, open-air pubs, while the smaller brewers sell their beer to independent pubs. Every evening (and
often in the afternoon as well) the local inhabitants meet in these places to enjoy the sun and the warmth
without giving up their beer.
Germany has a strong tradition of brewing schools, of growing barley and hops and of malting, together forming
a complete production chain of the highest quality. While the Purity Law may have restricted the brewers’
imagination in their production and the evolution of styles by creating a certain conservatism, it is also true that
in recent times something has changed. Besides the classic noble hops, pillars of the Teutonic tradition, new
types of hops with fascinating aromatic properties have been introduced, an impressive response by the Old
Continent to the continuous flow of innovations from the New World. Also some local brewers have started
to use American varieties so as to produce less typical styles, while arousing the interest of a younger public
of beer enthusiasts. The good omen is that the new hops grown in the Hallertau (the most important area of
cultivation) are better adapted to the types of local beers than those from North America.
[email protected] 128 01/07/14 11:57
[email protected] 129 01/07/14 11:58
129THE MAJOR COUNTRIES AND THE MAJOR STYLES OF BEER
WEIZENBIER (WEISSBIER)
FAMILY: TOP FERMENTATION
CATEGORY: GERMAN WHEAT AND RYE BEER
STYLE: WEIZENBIER (WEISSBIER)
ORIGIN: GERMANY (MUNICH)
It is the nth style created by the Bavarian brewers, today very widespread and
popular with the general public, distinguished by its large amount of wheat malt,
not below 50%. For these beers brewers use special top-fermenting yeasts that are
responsible, together with the wheat, for the typical spicy clove and ripe banana
aroma with phenolic and slightly citric accents. But one must watch out for the
name under which they are marketed. This may be Weiss (white) that refers to the
color, although in reality they are pale yellow, or it may be Weizen (wheat) that
refers to its main ingredient, wheat malt. In addition to the generic names Weiss
and Weizen, it is sometimes marketed under other names that refer more to its
characteristics. "Kristall" tells us that the beer has been filtered and not re-fermented
to appear sparkling. Hefeweizen, that is Weizen with yeast (Hefe=yeast), is the
name given to the non-filtered versions that are re-fermented and very opalescent
with a deeper color. These are also the most widespread.
Finally there are other Weizen beers that do not belong to this style: the Dunkel
Weizen, so called because of their dark color (Dunkel=dark), in which the fruity
aromas have been replaced by those of roast coffee and liquorish. There are also
Weizenbock and the Weizen Doppel-Bock, dark wheat beers that share the very
complex character and high alcohol content typical of Bock and Doppel-Bock.
These are very straightforward and popular beers, very approachable. They are
sometimes unfairly snubbed by self-styled experts who have maybe forgotten that
it survived the notorious Purity Law because the royal family of Bavaria owned the
exclusive production rights.
Many enjoy it with a slice of lemon elegantly placed on the rim of the glass. But
who are we to say… “de gustibus non est disputandum” ("in matters of taste there is
no argument”). Try it both ways and then you can decide how you prefer it.
Alcohol content: about 4.3-5.6% abv.
Pairing: in Munich you can enjoy it with white Vienna sausage and sweet mustard
as a mid-morning snack.
[email protected] 204 01/07/14 12:10
204 PAIRING BEER AND FOOD
RECOMMENDED PAIRING: FRAMBOISE
GLAZED PORK KNUCKLEWITH SMALL RED FRUITS, RASPBERRY BEER
DROPS AND CREAMED POTATOSERVES 4
2 PORK KNUCKLES CUT IN HALF LENGTHWAYS 1 STICK CELERY
1 CARROT 1 WHITE ONION
1 1/4 CUPS (300 ML) WHITE WINE1 BUNCH HERBS CONSISTING OF BAY LEAF, ROSEMARY, THYME, SAGE
1 BOWL RASPBERRIES 1 BOWL BLACKBERRIES 1 BOWL BLUEBERRIES
3/4 CUP+2 TBSP (200 ML) FRAMBOISE BEER2 TSP (5 G) TAPIOCA FLOUR
2 LB 2 OZ (1 KG) YELLOW POTATOES 1 1/4 CUPS (300 ML) FRESH CREAM
3 TBSP (40 G) BUTTER EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SALT AND PEPPER
PREPARATION
Peel and wash the celery, carrot and onion, cut into cubes and fry in an ovenproof pan with olive oil and
salt. Salt and pepper the pork knuckles, saute in a non-stick pan, pour in the white wine, add the red
fruits having previously washed them and bring to a boil. Pour the sauce over the knuckles in the pan,
add the bouquet garni, and cook in the oven for 2 hours at 350 °F (180 °C).
Put the beer in a saucepan, add the tapioca flour and bring to the boil, stirring quickly with a whisk until
it forms a thick sauce. Leave to cool.
Boil the potatoes in their skins in salted water. Drain and peel them, crush them in a pan, add the very
cold butter, stir until it is well blended, add salt, add the cold cream and transfer to the heat, stirring until
you have a puree. Remove the knuckles from the oven, transfer to a serving dish, and then reduce the
strained sauce until it is thick and glossy.
Cover the knuckles with the sauce, add the mashed potatoes to the dish and garnish with a few drops of
the beer and tapioca sauce.
[email protected] 205 01/07/14 12:10
Beer is a drink as old as mankind—and still a favorite today, with more people than ever appreciating craft brews and unique flavors. Beer Sommelier takes readers on a visually stunning world tour of the beer-making process, presenting principal types from ten various traditions. Through detailed profiles and splendid photos, aficionados will be better able to understand and appreciate the subtle differences that distinguish each style.
• Review copy mailing to trade publications
• Review copy mailing to men’s, beer, and beverage magazines and beer writers at daily newspapers
• Outreach to beer and beverage blogs and websites
• Pitch for inclusion in Father’s Day gift guides
Pietro Fontana opened a microbrewery in Monza, Italy, where he is both owner and brewer: Piccolo Opificio Brassicolo del Carrobiolo-FERMENTUM, a member of the Italian cultural association Unionbirrai. Apart from producing sought-after beers, he organizes introductory courses to home brewing and tastings of quality beers. In 2011 and 2013, some of his beers obtained the highest recognition available to Italian brewers, being included in Slowfood’s Guida alle birre d’Italia (a guide to Italian beers). In 2014, he extended his brewery, adding a new production area and a brewpub—the first in the city.
Fabio Petroni specializes in portraits and still lifes. He has photographed leading Italian celebrities, and works with top advertising agencies where he handles important Italian brands. His books with White Star include Horses: Master Portraits, Mutt’s Life!, Cocktails, Orchids, Tea Sommelier, and Bonsai. He lives in Milan.
For more information, contact Blanca Oliviery at (646) 688-2548 or [email protected]
PUB DATE FEBrUAry 2015
sterlingpublishing.com
February 2015Culinary / Beer$39.95 ($43.95 Can)Hardcover with Jacket9 5⁄8“ x 12“ • 232 pages (all in color)978-88-544-0901-9
DISCLAIMERReviewers are reminded that changes may be made in this uncorrected proof before books are printed. If any material from the book is to be quoted in a review, the quotation should be checked against the final bound book. Dates, prices, and manufacturing details are subject to change or cancellation without notice.
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