Bee Removal Sydney Call Now 0423688352

8/3/2019 Bee Removal Sydney Call Now 0423688352

1/48

bee removal sydney call now 0423688352

Home

bee removal call now 0423688352 all sydney

The best price in Sydney, for

bee and wasp removal oreradication

up to 10 meters high and

same day service call now on

0423688352 or (02)99200319

[email protected]'re bee experts and bee exterminator and We remove
http://beeremovalsydney.webs.com/http://beeremovalsydney.webs.com/http://beeremovalsydney.webs.com/http://beeremovalsydney.webs.com/


2/48

bees from enclosed spaces or cavities such as chimneys,

electricity meter boxes, walls of houses, roof spaces or

similar inaccessible places. Bee swarms extermination and

hives on private land must be treated by the owner of theproperty, the bee removal is not an easy job. , the entrance

to the nest site and other nearby holes should be sealed to

prevent the entry of other swarms. Eradication should be

done immediately by professional The treatment should be

directed into the nest and not simply around the nest. and

the best way to eradicate the bees is better to call us, Every

year, beekeepers are called upon to give advice regarding

the removal of honey bees from homes and buildings. Suchadvice is difficult to give because each case requires first

hand information, and no two responses are alike. The

following information is designed to give guidance about

what needs to be done to accomplish honey bee nest

removal and what considerations should be given when

choosing a course of action. Often a swarm of bees will

hang in a cluster before moving into their new home,remove the bee swarms as soon as possible. bee Removal

of swarms It is easier to have a bee swarm cluster removed

from your property before it moves to a permanent

location, such as a wall cavity, where it will be more

difficult and expensive to remove the bee. Do not attempt

to remove a bee swarm yourself or bee extermination. A

local beekeeper may be able to assist in dealing with a bee

swarm. Beekeepers in if You Discover A bee Swarm Avoid

the area and keep children and pets away from the bee

swarm or colony. As a general rule, stay away from all

honey bee swarms and colonies, some people are bee

allergic and COULD BE FATAL the bee must be removal.


3/48

Our bees removal service is 100% Money-Back Guarantee,

bee exterminator, wasp exterminator Most of Pest Control

don't know how to handle bees, we are professionals when

it comes to identifying the problem, remove the bees andremoving bee hives. Bee Removal professional is what we

do. With rising concerns of the Africanised bee (killer bee)

more people are now looking to control their bee problems

rather than avoiding them. Unlike other pest control

companies who only kill the bees but don't fully solve the

problem; We find the hive, remove the bees, remove the

hive and prevent future infestations of the area. That is true

bee control! The alkali venom contains several kinds ofproteins and enzymes which are believed to cause allergic

reactions of varying degrees in humans. Sting reactions,

which may increase with succeeding stings, include: A

choking sensation or difficulty in breathing. A skin rash

similar to hives (human hives, not bee hives). A dry cough,

sneezing or asthma. Lips turning blue. A rapid pulse and a

drop in blood pressure. To find localbeekeepers in yourarea that will remove bee swarms, Please let the beekeeper

know where the swarm is located, how long you've noticed

the bee swarm and the approximate size of the bee swarm.

Also, do not spray the bees or call an exterminator as

beekeepers will not want to remove any honey bees that

have been chemically sprayed! Call the beekeeper first! We

perform bee removal in walls, roofs, attics, chimneys and

other odd places bees nest in. At times, we also provide

swarm removal on trees, bushes, and other exterior

locations. Bee removal has changed quite a bit since the

80's, here is a brief history of honey bee removal in the

Australia, otherwise read on to learn more about bee
http://www.hotfrog.com.au/Companies/BEE-Removal-Wasp-removal-Extermination-call-0423688352-or-99200319http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Business-Services-other-business-services-bee-wasp-removal-service-call-0423688352-99200319-Sydney-W0QQAdIdZ108218329http://www.hotfrog.com.au/Companies/BEE-Removal-Wasp-removal-Extermination-call-0423688352-or-99200319http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Business-Services-other-business-services-bee-wasp-removal-service-call-0423688352-99200319-Sydney-W0QQAdIdZ108218329


4/48

removal and solving your bee problem. Bee removal is

often dangerous and difficult; although bees are often found

under eves they are much different then wasps. A few bees

buzzing around an entrance point or eve is usually sign of abeehive. An established beehive typically will have 10,000

to 50,000 bees. In addition, a typicalbeehive has 25 to 100

lbs of honey and comb. Many times a bee exterminator is

used to exterminate the bees but the honeycomb is left in

the wall. Removal of the honeycomb is the key to solving a

bee problem and not creating bigger problems that require

pest control for rodents and bugs, structural repair from

melted honey, and more bee removal problems in thefuture, When honey bees swarm they send out 'scout bees'

whose mission is to look for the best place to establish a

new home. Usually they find a hollow area in a tree, but

any enclosed empty space that will provide protection for

the weather will do. They may well find an opening in your

homes outside walls or foundation that will provide them a

very nice cosy spot inside your walls or ceilings or even thebasement or attic space. Removing honeybees from inside

any of the above spaces is a time consuming process that is

best put in the hands of a professional. You can do it

yourself but only if you really know what you are doing

and you use extreme caution, especially if you live in an

area populated by the infamous African Bee. The removal

of African Bees should only be done by a professional

service, as you could easily be attacked and lose your life !

It is important to realize that it is not sufficient to simply

kill the bees and not remove the entire hive. Honey bees

ventilate their bee hives and if they are not there to perform

this task then the hive will get too hot in the summer
http://www.beewaspremoval.com/http://www.beewaspremoval.com/


5/48

weather and its contents will eventually melt and seep

through your walls or ceilings. That creates a real mess !

Most people first notice honeybees coming and going

through a small hole in their home's outside walls or eaves.Sometimes they are able to find a hole where the

foundation and your home's wooden structure are joined

together. In this instance they either get up inside your

walls or make a home in your basement or crawl space.

Their entrance can be anywhere. Sometimes honeybees are

first noticed flying around a window inside a room of your

home. In this instance they have built a hive inside a wall

or ceiling and they have found an opening very oftenaround a ceiling light fixture. Try to observe how they are

getting inside your room and open a window to let them get

outdoors. They will have all left by nightfall. If possible

close the door to the room after they have all left. In any

case, once you have noted how they are coming and going,

call a pest removal service or a local beekeeper you may

know or can find in your area. Some beekeepers willremove the bees and the entire hive. In any event, the

honeybees most likely will have to be exterminated and the

person doing the job is going to have to access the hive by

removing part of your outdoor or indoor wall. This will

then provide access to the bee hive combs, which must be

removed in their entirety and all that remains of the hive. It

is important to exterminate a colony when all the bees are

in the hive after dusk or before dawn. A variety of

pesticides, in liquid or dust formulations may be used to

exterminate the bees. One needs to be careful in their use as

these formulations are equally of danger to the health of us

humans. There is good evidence to show that soapy water


6/48

is a very good material for this purpose. It is inexpensive

and relatively environmentally benign. It is essential that all

honeycomb and its contents be removed. Bits of wax left

behind give off highly attractive odours that will attractother bees looking for a new home. Once the bees have

been exterminated and all traces of their occupation have

been removed then the area that has been opened requires

additional carpentry skills to enable a repair to restore it to

its original condition and to ensure that no openings are left

for a future swarm to move in a second time. You may be

able to see the exact opening being used by the honeybees

to come and go but it is another thing to figure out exactlywhere they are inside a wall or ceiling. Tapping the wall or

ceiling area that is inside opposite the outdoor hole being

used by the bees can often locate the hive. While you tap

you must simultaneously listen for an answering buzz from

the honeybees. Once the hive is located, the exterminator

will need to bore a hole, preferably through the outside wall

[for obvious reasons :-)], so an insecticide can be applied tothe hive. To recap the above: Try to observe and note the

hole in your outside wall being used by the bees. Do not

attempt to kill the bees by spraying a pesticide into this

opening. This will only kill those bees using the

entrance/exit. It does not get rid of the thousands of bees

inside the bee hive proper. Plugging the hole after using a

pesticide could force the remaining inside bees to find a

way to get in your home itself. See if you can determine on

your own, by the tapping method suggested above, where

the hive may be behind your wall or ceiling. You can also

use a drinking glass by placing its bottom against the wall

and putting your ear to the open end. If this is all too fearful
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noGvJX8Icrshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noGvJX8Icrs


7/48

for you then forget it and let the exterminator locate the

hive. If you live in an Sydney area known to be inhabited

by honey Bees then use extreme caution, as you could

easily lose your life if attacked. Honeybees are much moreaggressive in stinging and chasing you long distances.

Jumping into water to get away from them is also not

sufficient, as they will fly around watching for you to

eventually surface. Simply call an exterminator service

immediately. Carpentry skills are essential to this operation

to both open up the exterior or interior wall or ceiling to

provide access to the beehive, but also re close that opening

to its original state once the job is completed. Do deal withthe problem when it is noticed. It will not go away and if

you wait a few months you may well have thousands of

more bees to deal with when you decide to tackle the

problem. Ceilings have been known to collapse into a room

from the weight of all the honey that has been stored in the

beehive over time. What is a swarm? Swarming is the

honey bees method of colony reproduction. The oldqueen and half of the worker bees leave their former nestand seek a new home mostly in the spring, but sometimes

in late summer. A few worker honey bees, we call

scouts, fly around areas in the vicinity of the old hivesearching for a suitable, new habitat (the correct sized

cavity with an easily protected entrance). Often, that job is

not completed when the swarmissues from the hive.The outpouring of bees from the hive forms a large,

buzzing cloud of insects that seems to be going every

direction at once. That flying group of honey bees is the

swarm. It is a phenomenal sight that frequently scares

people. However, the bees eventually have to regroup,


8/48

somewhere, while the search for a new home continues.

What do swarms do? A few other worker bees, called

leader bees, fly from the hive to a distant location,

then land and secrete Nasanov pheromone. That lemon-likeodor is attractive to the bees and queen in the swarm. The

bees coalesce into a single group, on an object. The group

properly is called acluster, but most people still referto it as a swarm. The bees in the cluster are carrying honey

from the old hive and are much less defensive than they

would be if they still were protecting combs containing

brood (immature bees) and stored foods (pollens and

honey). At this point in time homeowners attempt to reachsomeone to take the bees away. In the spring, this makes

sense to a beekeeper, because the bees have all summer to

build their population and collect enough honey to survive

the winter. Fall swarms will not have a full season to

collect stores and beekeepers often are not too interested in

collecting them. During the time that scout bees are seeking

a new nesting site, foragers fly to and from the clustercollecting mostly nectar (dilute sugar syrup) to keep their

cluster mates hydrated and energized. If the scouts do not

find a new location for the swarms to live, the urge to build

comb can become overwhelming and the bees will build an

exposed comb colony, suspended from a tree limb, theoverhang of a house, or so other unusual place. How are

swarms removed? Experienced beekeepers often remove

clusters simply by brushing the bees gently into a box and

taking them away. This is best done after flight activity has

ceased for the night, since the scouts and foragers will be

back on the cluster. The beekeeper should be prepared for

defensive behavior, in case it develops, but dealing with a


9/48

cluster is usually quite easy. This changes, however, as the

cluster becomes more difficult to reach, such as way up in a

tall tree, intermeshed with the branches of a shrub, or

wedged into the corner of a building. It is best to supply thebeekeeper with as much information as possible about the

swarm to prevent surprises. Regulatory agencies and

professional pest control operators probably will have no

desire totake them alive. So, chemicals will be used tokill the bees in the cluster. Choice of chemicals varies from

commercial formulations ofsoapy water that preventflight and drown the bees, to quickly toxic materials that

simply knock out the bees nervous system and kill them.Regardless of the material used, the dead bee bodies should

be collected and disposed of properly to prevent poisoning

of birds or mammals that might ingest the contaminated

carcasses. A stomach full of soap or detergent is just as

lethal as a stomach full of synthesized pesticide, What if

the swarm is moving into my house? Sometimes it is

difficult to determine whether a honey bee cluster on theside of a building is simply resting there or moving, one by

one, through a hole into an inner portion of a building. If

the cluster size is shrinking, but hasnt flown away,chances are they are moving in. Obviously, when they first

arrive, they are short on food and have to build combs from

wax they produce from the honey they are carrying. If they

are not allowed to continue foraging for nectar, they willnot accomplish much building. At this point in time, they

can belocked in their new home with screen, steelwool, or something else through which they cannot chew to

escape. They will die in place over the next week or two.

However, they will be roaming around the area trying to


10/48

find a new entrance, and a number of them are likely to

find their way into the living quarters, especially by

following beams of nighttime room lighting. Bees do not

fly in the dark, but they will fly to the windows the nextmorning and stay there most of the day while they die of

dehydration. They can be sucked up safely with a vacuum

cleaner hose. Remember there may be live bees in the bag

for a couple days after they have been vacuumed up. What

if bees have been established in my house for a while?

Once the bees have become established, they will have

built one or more combs in which they are rearing brood

and storing food. Often they do no structural harm to thebuilding, but they are noticeable by their incessant

humming. That is the sound of the bees ventilatingtheir hive with fresh air and blowing out carbon dioxide, if

it accumulates. The sound picks up in intensity when

ventilation also is being used to evaporate water from

nectar to change it into honey. Occasionally, the bees use

water to soften sheetrock and remove it in order to expandthe nesting area. Residents then will notice an enlarging

damp area on the wall. In a few cases, the beesactually open a hole through the sheetrock. Very few

people will respond to that event as did the person who

opened the hole wider and covered it with a sheet of glass

to have his ownobservation hive. How are establishedhoney bee colonies removed? Regardless of whether the

bees are removed alive or dead, the combs have to be

removed from the building. If they are not removed, the

stored honey eventually will absorb enough water to allow

yeast spores to germinate and ferment the honey. The

resultant gas bursts the cappings and allows the honey to


11/48

drain from the combs. Gravity starts moving the honey,

then the first horizontal obstruction usually brings the

honey into the home: a ceiling, a fire-break two by four, a

window frame, a door frame, the floor, etc. The damagewill be expensive to repair. Bees killed by pesticides may

drop into a pile, where their bodies do not dehydrate

quickly enough. Microbes growing in the bodies of dead

bees can produce very offensive odors. Since it is not a

good idea to handle pesticide contaminated honeycomb,

anyway, it probably is best to eliminate the bees without

first killing them by opening a hole in an exterior or interior

wall, ceiling, etc., that is large enough to reach in and getthe combs out. It is wise to consult with a contractor before

the hole is opened. Some holes close a lot easier than

others. If the bees are to be saved, the bees and combs are

taken out gently and placed in a box or some other suitable

container. With less regard for the bees safety, they canbe removed from the void with a vacuum device (shop

vac). This process tends to stimulate the bees to releasealarm pheromone (smells like bananas) that increasesdefensive behavior, so everyone nearby must be fully

clothed in abee suit.Many beekeepers have bafflesand collection containers, in their vacuum lines, to try to

protect and save the bees. If the homeowner has a lot of

patience, the bees can betrapped out of the building

using a one-way wire screen devise that forces bees thatleave the building to relocate into a beehive placed adjacent

to the original entrance. Consult with your county agent

(Farm Advisor in Blacktown NSW) to be directed to a bee

specialist who can help describe this procedure. What do I

do after the bees are gone? Once the bees and combs are


12/48

removed from the building, there will be traces of beeswax

left behind. Honey bees have an extremely acute sense of

smell and the next swarm will be attracted to the site where

the combs used to be. Therefore, it is mandatory that allholes or openings of one-quarter inch or larger be caulked,

screened, or otherwise plugged to keep the bees out. Bees

do not chew their way into buildings, but they are experts at

finding a hole to get through. The area requiring

examination and servicing includes the whole side of the

building around the previous entrance or both sides of the

building, if the entrance was on a corner. Some people fill

the void where the previous nest was located withexpanding foam insulation. But, if the bees can find access

to a void adjacent to the previous nesting site, they will

move right in. During the extraction process some bees are

likely to escape. Also, some honey bee foragers spend the

night away from the hive in the summer. So, there is likely

to be a cluster of bees forming around the entrance after the

bees and combs have been removed. That small number ofbees can be vacuumed up or eliminated with an aerosol

spray labeled for use on wasps and bees outside the home.

Be sure to read the label and follow the instructions strictly.

Bees in a Wall - What Can be Done? Every year,

beekeepers are called upon to give advice regarding the

removal of honey bees (and other insect pests) from homes

and buildings. Such advice is difficult to give because each

case requires first hand information, and no two responses

are alike. The following information is designed to give

guidance about what needs to be done to accomplish honey

bee nest removal and what considerations should be given

when choosing a course of action. Properly completing a


13/48

honey bee nest removal may involve a beekeeper to remove

the insect, a carpenter to dismantle/reassemble the wall,

and/or a licensed pest control company to eradicate the

insects if removal is impractical. Keep in mind that youmight also call an electrician or a plumber if safety or

accessibility is an issue. Although many of the observations

and suggestions provided are specific to situations found in

Australia, much of this information is general enough that it

would apply to any area. Each situation is unique, so no set

plan will solve all of the problems involved. Often, a great

deal of coordinated planning is needed. Just remember that

there is no Pied Piper of Hamlin that can wave a magicwand or play a magic flute to draw the insects out of their

hiding place. Honey bees are valuable pollinators. In the

Australia approximately 1/3 of our food crops benefit either

directly or indirectly from honey bee pollination. The

destruction of honey bees should be a last resort, if

possible. What should the homeowner do? First, identify

the insect. Identification of the insect or its nest can providevaluable information needed to assess the situation. The

solution to the problem can be quite different for each

species of insect that takes up residence your home. For

example, bumble bees typically will not nest in a wall

cavity, but often find suitable nesting in materials such as

insulation, foam pads, and/or seat cushions. Yellow jackets

will build their paper nests in wall cavities, holes in the

ground, or in the attic (or crawlspace) of your home. Honey

bees like the protection of wall cavities, especially in older

homes that lack insulation between the wall studs. Here are

some tips to help you decide whether you have honey bees

or some other insect: If you see the insects flying from


14/48

the entrance of the nest cavity in the spring (April to June

in the north), then honey bees are a real possibility. Ifyou can find a dead insect, check to see if it is hairy. All

bees have hairs while yellow jackets are smooth. Youmight take the insect to the Michigan State University

Cooperative Extension office in your county for a positive

identification. Pictures on the Internet or in insect

identification books may be helpful in making a

determination. There are a number of good yellow jacket

websites, but we recommend Eastern Yellow Jacket and

Yellow Jacket HYG 2075-97. If you can see any part ofthe nest, it may help with the identification. Honey beesbuild honeycomb out of wax. Other stinging insects use

wood fiber to build paper nests, or they may use mud as a

building material. A licensed pest control firm may havethe resources to help you identify your insect problem.

There may be a cost for this examination. You may finda beekeeper to help identify the insect in question. Take

a digital photo and send it to the SEMBA Web master, youcan find his contact information here . Removal of a yellow

jacket nest It would be helpful to review the yellow jacket's

life cycle before you tangle with this insect. Knowing its

life cycle and habits will help you decide whether to

remove the insect and its nest or to simply live with it in

your wall or in your yard. Queen yellow jackets are raised

in a paper nest beginning in the late summer to early fall.After mating, these queens leave the nest and find a

protected location to hibernate. The old queen and all of the

workers and drones of that hive will die and the paper nest

will not be used the following year. Early the next spring,

the new queens will come out of hibernation and seek a


15/48

location to form a new nest. Depending upon the species of

yellow jacket, some might build a paper nest on a tree, in a

bush, or more commonly find a hole in the ground. Other

species may seek out a cavity in your wall in which to buildtheir paper nest. At first the queen does all of the paper nest

making, egg laying and food gathering of nectar and insects

for the young developing workers that are called brood. As

the first brood hatch, they will forage for food, feed the

young, and build more nest capacity. The queen will now

stay in the nest to lay eggs. The size of the nest will

increase dramatically by late summer and early fall. Early

in this life cycle, you will hardly be aware of the nestbecause it is so small and not aggressive. However, by late

summer the numbers of yellow jackets will have increased

tremendously and they will be more likely to sting anyone

coming near the nest. (It is usually the yellow jacket and

not the honey bee that will be attracted to your beverage

can or other food that you are consuming out-of-doors.)

The bald-faced hornet that makes a large paper nest hasbasically the same life cycle as the yellow jacket. If you

decide to eradicate yellow jackets, you could contact a pest

control company or do it yourself. Locate the opening or

openings and spray a wasp/hornet insecticide into the

cavity opening. Evening is the best time because the

majority of the insects are in the nest and not flying.

Wearing gloves, a protective veil and clothing is advised.

Follow the instructions and precautions on the label. It may

take more than one application to completely destroy the

colony. If the nest is located in your home, do Not simply

close up the opening because these insects may find a way

into the living area of your home. Yellow jackets that come


16/48

into the home are usually not aggressive and often will be

found at the windows looking for a way out. If the location

of the nest is in an area (up high for example) where they

are not bothering anyone, you might consider just leavingthem until cold weather when they will all die. Then the

important next step is to seal up the nest openings and look

for and seal other places where insects could enter the

following year. The inside of the nest of the yellow jacket

and bald-faced hornet is very interesting. Use due caution

when letting your children take the nests to school for show

and tell. More than once, one or more un-hatched insects

have emerged and interrupted a classroom. Removal ofbumble bees The life cycle of the bumble bee is essentially

the same as yellow jackets, hornets and wasps with only the

fertile queens surviving to start nests the next year. The

same wasp/hornet spray recommended for yellow jackets

will kill bumble bees. Evening application works best.

Bumble bees can be very aggressive when disturbed so use

protective clothing and carefully follow the instructions andprecautions on the label. Again, several evening

applications may be needed. If you should choose to leave

them, wait until cold weather, remove the old nesting

material and make preparations to close off any entrances

that newly hatched queens might enter next spring. Like the

honey bee, the bumble bee is an important pollinator. If you

can live with a bumble bee colony, you might want to let

them benefit your property. Removal of honey bees

Dealing with honey bees is a more complex issue and the

degree of difficulty is much greater. The first step in the

process is to identify exactly where the honey bee colony is

located in your home. Then get ready to go to work. In


17/48

recent years, several pest control companies have decided

not to be involved with honey bee removals. In fact some

firms will tell the landowner that it is illegal to kill honey

bees. Often they argue that there is a shortage of honeybees, that honey bees are protected, or that they cannot do

removal without a permit from the Michigan Department of

Agriculture (MDA). The truth of the matter is that removal

of honey bees from a home is a matter of personal safety,

and there are no rules in Michigan that would prevent a

landowner from removing a colony from their home. The

information from pest control companies is simply not

correct. Michigan's State Apiarist, Mike Hansen, routinelyexplains to homeowners that there are limited numbers of

beekeepers interested in collecting nests from homes

because the time and effort is seldom worth the prize. In

regard to shortages of honey bees, there is a shortage of

feral honey bee colonies (wild bees), but beekeepers have

sources for purchasing replacement bees. A beekeeper can

purchase honey bees more economically from firms thatraise the line of bees that the beekeeper wants. Beekeepers

also have the ability to increase the number of their own

colonies by splitting the ones they have. The shortage of

feral colonies of bees has been caused by the unwanted

introduction of honey bee pests during the last 20-25 years.

The tracheal and varroa mites, as well as the small hive

beetle, can devastate a wild colony because there is no

beekeeper to apply the products needed to protect these

colonies. There may be some confusion in the pest control

industry because there is a requirement on all agricultural

pesticide products that is intended to protect managed

colonies of honey bees from pesticide drift or


18/48

misapplication. Since farmers need honey bees to pollinate

their crops, there is little argument that honey bees need to

be protected in the agricultural setting. You will seldom see

this requirement on products that you can purchase at thelocal hardware store, or even on the labels of products used

by firms that spray for insects in and around your home. It

appears, however, that the precautionary statements on

agricultural pesticides is being misapplied by pest control

companies. Hansen reports that he checked with his State

Apiary counterparts from the Apiary Inspectors of America

(AIA) and with apiary officials from the USDA several

years ago, and there is no 'Federal Protection for HoneyBees' as the pest control firms have stated. What we have

here is what's known as an "Urban Legend." Dealing with

the problem Before we outline the methods of honey bee

removal or eradication it may be helpful to review some

information about the honey bee nest in your wall. Why did

the bees choose this wall? When honey bees reproduce in

the spring, they can quickly become over crowded. Thisactivates a natural event called swarming wherein about

one half of the bees in a colony will leave with the old

queen to search out a new home. In the old established hive

new queens will hatch, mate with drones and begin laying

eggs. The old queen will fly a short distance from the hive

and land. Attendant bees will cluster around her forming a

large mass called a swarm. Scout bees will leave the swarm

and search out a cavity to form a new nest. This new cavity

could be in a tree, an old barrel, a cavity in a wall in your

home with an opening at least 5/16 inch, or they could (in a

rare situation) build an exposed nest on the side of your

home or on vegetation. If the cavity in your wall had bees


19/48

before and the opening was not sealed, the odor of the wax

comb may attract them to that location. Could I have

prevented bees from occupying my wall? Yes, if you had

sealed all holes 5/16 inch or larger that led to a cavity.What does the swarm do inside the cavity to make a honey

bee nest? When honey bees move into a cavity, they first

build wax comb cells and begin to fill some with nectar

(this later becomes honey) and pollen. The queen will begin

to lay eggs in other cells. After 3 days, the eggs hatch and

become larvae feeding on honey and pollen. After 9 days of

feeding, larvae become pupa then adults. This cycle (from

egg to adult) takes 21 days. In a recently established hive,the amount of comb and brood (immature bees) will be

small. The average swarm contains about 10,000 bees. A

more established hive may have wax comb filling up the

entire space 16" x 4" x 7-8 ' between the studs and may

contain 50,000 to 60,000 honey bees. If the wall becomes

too warm, especially on the south side of the building, the

wax may melt and the honey may flow down the wall. Anactive hive keeps the hive cool enough so this seldom

happens. What safety concerns should I be thinking about?

You should be concerned if someone living in the house is

allergic to honey bee stings. Only a small percentage of

people are allergic to honey bees; but for these people

venom can be life threatening. Honey bees sting to defend

their colony. Avoid walking in front of the entrance and

avoid any disturbance near the hive. When bees leave the

entrance, they usually fly upward. If the opening to the nest

is higher than 8 to10 feet walking by will cause little

disturbance. Should I plug the hole? You could, but don't!

Bees will look for another exit which could include holes


20/48

leading into your home; your house has several openings

like those around ductwork, or ceiling and wall fixtures.

You don't want the bee's only route out to be through the

inside of your house. Can the bees be saved? Sometimesbees can be saved by trapping them out of the wall or by

physically removing them after dismantling the wall

covering. Both procedures are time consuming and costly

and most beekeepers are not interested in providing this

service. The value of the honey bees to a beekeeper is

minimal as the survival rate for bees removed physically

(cutting out comb, etc.) is poor. If there is no immediate

threat, what is the best time for removal? Late winter/earlyspring is a good time because the bees have consumed a

large amount of their stored honey during the winter. Also,

the number of bees present in the hive is lower than it will

be later in the spring. If I can find a beekeeper to remove

them what is involved? The ideal situation for removal of

honey bees would be in the late winter/early spring and

where the wall is easily dismantled exposing the comb andcontents. The homeowner must pay the expense of

dismantling the wall and having the wall rebuilt. The comb

with brood and honey is cut out and placed in frames to be

placed in the beekeeper's hive box. Some beekeepers use a

special vacuum that will remove bees from the exposed

comb without killing them. Often the situation is not ideal

because of the kind of building material (brick, cement or

stone), the location, or some other factor that presents an

obstacle. Before you call a beekeeper for assistance, you

should be able to answer the following questions:Whatkind of insect is nesting in your wall? Are the insects animmediate danger to people or animals? Has anyone been


21/48

stung? Is the entrance in the wall near a place where people

must walk? How high is the entrance? Is there morethan one entrance? How long have they been there?

What is the wall construction material?What directiondoes the wall face? Options for removing or eradicatingbees from walls So, what are your options? In our opinion

here are your choices. Just leave them alone unlesssafety is a concern. Homeowners often follow this advice.

In many cases the unmanaged bees will die over the winter

due to problems with disease, parasitic mites, starvation,

prolonged cold weather and other conditions. If you are

convinced that the bees are dead, be sure to seal thatopening as well as other places where bees may enter.Contact a pest control company for assistance. You may

need to call several before you find one that will eradicate

honey bees. Expect that eradication will not be a simple

task and the charges for these services will reflect the

difficulty of the job. It has been our experience that a single

treatment kills only the adult bees flying or walking aroundthe nest. After a few days the pupa, protected by the wax of

their cells, will emerge as adults, so you still have a

problem. We recommend that you insist they treat at least

2-3 times over a two week period. Find a beekeeper thatwill physically remove the comb and bees after the wall is

removed exposing the nest. Expect to pay the beekeeper

because the value of the bees is questionable at best. Thelabor needed to remove the colony coupled with angry bees

and sticky honey makes this job difficult. When the

beekeeper is done, you still have to rebuild the wall. Some

beekeepers have saved bees by trapping them from the

wall. Essentially, trapping involves reducing the entrance to


22/48

one opening and installing an exit cone. The cone is usually

screen wire shaped into a funnel-like design. The base is

secured over a single entrance. A small exit at the tip of the

cone, no larger than 3/8", allows the bees to exit but theycannot re-enter. The beekeeper places a small hive with a

few frames of brood, honey and a queen (this is called a

nucleus or "nuc") near the exit cone. Bees that leave the

nest in your wall will then join the "nuc". Depending upon

location, height, etc., a scaffold, ladders, and devices may

be required to hold the "nuc" in place. The size of the nest

in your wall will determine how long it takes for all the

bees to complete the exit. We have found that it can take upto two months in some cases. It works best by starting early

in the spring when the colony is small. Other details on

trapping techniques of trapping can be found in beekeeping

publications. Eradicate them yourself. Aerosolpesticides, containing pyrethroids labeled to kill wasps and

hornets can be used and are effective because they kill the

insect immediately on contact. For best results, wait untilevening and spray into the opening/openings. If you can

locate the actual location of the colony in your wall, you

can drill additional holes through which to apply the

insecticide. You may have to spray every two to three days.

Spraying is less effective if the nest is located far inside the

wall away from the opening. It will take longer if the nest

has been there for some time. When you first spray, the un-

hatched developing bees (pupa) are protected by wax

comb; therefore, you may have to repeat the process again

in two to three weeks. After determining there is no more

activity, seal all holes that could attract future invaders.

Other insecticides like Sevin in a dust formulation may be


23/48

applied using a gas motor or electric blower, modified with

a small opening, to force the dust into the nest. Bees will

not die immediately but will track the dust throughout the

hive causing eventual death. Some have used a gardenhand-duster dispenser to introduce the dust into the nest. It

is important to follow label instructions and safety

precautions. When using a pesticide application, follow all

of the precautionary statements on the label to ensure that

you don't harm yourself. Clothing worn when making an

application should always be washed separate from the

normal laundry. Always make sure the pesticides you use

are properly labeled for the job at hand, and follow thedirections. In each of the above cases, it's important to

determine where the nest was located. Honey and wax that

is not kept cool by a colony of honeybees can melt and seep

through your walls. The smell of honey and wax left behind

by a colony is also a calling card to new swarms. If you

don't take the precaution of carefully sealing your wall, you

can quickly have another colony take up residence in thesame place. If the colony is large, tear out the wall, clean

up the wax and honey, and paint over the area. Remember

that it's cheaper to replace a sheet of drywall from the

inside of the house than it is to replace the outside of the

wall. Bees in a tree cavity Much of the information

provided for bees in a wall could also apply for bees in a

tree near your home. In many cases the bees are high in the

tree and the home owner may not even be aware they exist.

Since bees in a tree cavity have little room to expand they

may swarm; therefore, it would be advisable to have the

name of a beekeeper to call in the event that this happens.

For more information on reporting a swarm, visit the


24/48

Southeastern Michigan Beekeepers' Association web site:

sembabees.org Bees in a Wall - What Can be Done? Every

year, beekeepers are called upon to give advice regarding

the removal of honey bees (and other insect pests) fromhomes and buildings. Such advice is difficult to give

because each case requires first hand information, and no

two responses are alike. The following information is

designed to give guidance about what needs to be done to

accomplish honey bee nest removal and what

considerations should be given when choosing a course of

action. Properly completing a honey bee nest removal may

involve a beekeeper to remove the insect, a carpenter todismantle/reassemble the wall, and/or a licensed pest

control company to eradicate the insects if removal is

impractical. Keep in mind that you might also call an

electrician or a plumber if safety or accessibility is an issue.

Although many of the observations and suggestions

provided are specific to situations found in Australia, much

of this information is general enough that it would apply toany area. Each situation is unique, so no set plan will solve

all of the problems involved. Often, a great deal of

coordinated planning is needed. Just remember that there is

no Pied Piper of Hamlin that can wave a magic wand or

play a magic flute to draw the insects out of their hiding

place. Honey bees are valuable pollinators. In the Australia

approximately 1/3 of our food crops benefit either directly

or indirectly from honey bee pollination. The destruction of

honey bees should be a last resort, if possible. What should

the homeowner do? First, identify the insect. Identification

of the insect or its nest can provide valuable information

needed to assess the situation. The solution to the problem


25/48

can be quite different for each species of insect that takes

up residence your home. For example, bumble bees

typically will not nest in a wall cavity, but often find

suitable nesting in materials such as insulation, foam pads,and/or seat cushions. Yellow jackets will build their paper

nests in wall cavities, holes in the ground, or in the attic (or

crawlspace) of your home. Honey bees like the protection

of wall cavities, especially in older homes that lack

insulation between the wall studs. Here are some tips to

help you decide whether you have honey bees or some

other insect: If you see the insects flying from theentrance of the nest cavity in the spring (April to June inthe north), then honey bees are a real possibility. If youcan find a dead insect, check to see if it is hairy. All bees

have hairs while yellow jackets are smooth. You might take

the insect to the Michigan State University Cooperative

Extension office in your county for a positive

identification. Pictures on the Internet or in insect

identification books may be helpful in making adetermination. There are a number of good yellow jacket

websites, but we recommend Eastern Yellow Jacket and

Yellow Jacket HYG 2075-97. If you can see any part ofthe nest, it may help with the identification. Honey bees

build honeycomb out of wax. Other stinging insects use

wood fiber to build paper nests, or they may use mud as a

building material. A licensed pest control firm may havethe resources to help you identify your insect problem.

There may be a cost for this examination. You may finda beekeeper to help identify the insect in question. Takea digital photo and send it to the SEMBA Web master, you

can find his contact information here . Removal of a yellow


26/48

jacket nest It would be helpful to review the yellow jacket's

life cycle before you tangle with this insect. Knowing its

life cycle and habits will help you decide whether to

remove the insect and its nest or to simply live with it inyour wall or in your yard. Queen yellow jackets are raised

in a paper nest beginning in the late summer to early fall.

After mating, these queens leave the nest and find a

protected location to hibernate. The old queen and all of the

workers and drones of that hive will die and the paper nest

will not be used the following year. Early the next spring,

the new queens will come out of hibernation and seek a

location to form a new nest. Depending upon the species ofyellow jacket, some might build a paper nest on a tree, in a

bush, or more commonly find a hole in the ground. Other

species may seek out a cavity in your wall in which to build

their paper nest. At first the queen does all of the paper nest

making, egg laying and food gathering of nectar and insects

for the young developing workers that are called brood. As

the first brood hatch, they will forage for food, feed theyoung, and build more nest capacity. The queen will now

stay in the nest to lay eggs. The size of the nest will

increase dramatically by late summer and early fall. Early

in this life cycle, you will hardly be aware of the nest

because it is so small and not aggressive. However, by late

summer the numbers of yellow jackets will have increased

tremendously and they will be more likely to sting anyone

coming near the nest. (It is usually the yellow jacket and

not the honey bee that will be attracted to your beverage

can or other food that you are consuming out-of-doors.)

The bald-faced hornet that makes a large paper nest has

basically the same life cycle as the yellow jacket. If you


27/48

decide to eradicate yellow jackets, you could contact a pest

control company or do it yourself. Locate the opening or

openings and spray a wasp/hornet insecticide into the

cavity opening. Evening is the best time because themajority of the insects are in the nest and not flying.

Wearing gloves, a protective veil and clothing is advised.

Follow the instructions and precautions on the label. It may

take more than one application to completely destroy the

colony. If the nest is located in your home, do Not simply

close up the opening because these insects may find a way

into the living area of your home. Yellow jackets that come

into the home are usually not aggressive and often will befound at the windows looking for a way out. If the location

of the nest is in an area (up high for example) where they

are not bothering anyone, you might consider just leaving

them until cold weather when they will all die. Then the

important next step is to seal up the nest openings and look

for and seal other places where insects could enter the

following year. The inside of the nest of the yellow jacketand bald-faced hornet is very interesting. Use due caution

when letting your children take the nests to school for show

and tell. More than once, one or more un-hatched insects

have emerged and interrupted a classroom. Removal of

bumble bees The life cycle of the bumble bee is essentially

the same as yellow jackets, hornets and wasps with only the

fertile queens surviving to start nests the next year. The

same wasp/hornet spray recommended for yellow jackets

will kill bumble bees. Evening application works best.

Bumble bees can be very aggressive when disturbed so use

protective clothing and carefully follow the instructions and

precautions on the label. Again, several evening


28/48

applications may be needed. If you should choose to leave

them, wait until cold weather, remove the old nesting

material and make preparations to close off any entrances

that newly hatched queens might enter next spring. Like thehoney bee, the bumble bee is an important pollinator. If you

can live with a bumble bee colony, you might want to let

them benefit your property. Removal of honey bees

Dealing with honey bees is a more complex issue and the

degree of difficulty is much greater. The first step in the

process is to identify exactly where the honey bee colony is

located in your home. Then get ready to go to work. In

recent years, several pest control companies have decidednot to be involved with honey bee removals. In fact some

firms will tell the landowner that it is illegal to kill honey

bees. Often they argue that there is a shortage of honey

bees, that honey bees are protected, or that they cannot do

removal without a permit from the Michigan Department of

Agriculture (MDA). The truth of the matter is that removal

of honey bees from a home is a matter of personal safety,and there are no rules in Michigan that would prevent a

landowner from removing a colony from their home. The

information from pest control companies is simply not

correct. Michigan's State Apiarist, Mike Hansen, routinely

explains to homeowners that there are limited numbers of

beekeepers interested in collecting nests from homes

because the time and effort is seldom worth the prize. In

regard to shortages of honey bees, there is a shortage of

feral honey bee colonies (wild bees), but beekeepers have

sources for purchasing replacement bees. A beekeeper can

purchase honey bees more economically from firms that

raise the line of bees that the beekeeper wants. Beekeepers


29/48

also have the ability to increase the number of their own

colonies by splitting the ones they have. The shortage of

feral colonies of bees has been caused by the unwanted

introduction of honey bee pests during the last 20-25 years.The tracheal and varroa mites, as well as the small hive

beetle, can devastate a wild colony because there is no

beekeeper to apply the products needed to protect these

colonies. There may be some confusion in the pest control

industry because there is a requirement on all agricultural

pesticide products that is intended to protect managed

colonies of honey bees from pesticide drift or

misapplication. Since farmers need honey bees to pollinatetheir crops, there is little argument that honey bees need to

be protected in the agricultural setting. You will seldom see

this requirement on products that you can purchase at the

local hardware store, or even on the labels of products used

by firms that spray for insects in and around your home. It

appears, however, that the precautionary statements on

agricultural pesticides is being misapplied by pest controlcompanies. Hansen reports that he checked with his State

Apiary counterparts from the Apiary Inspectors of America

(AIA) and with apiary officials from the USDA several

years ago, and there is no 'Federal Protection for Honey

Bees' as the pest control firms have stated. What we have

here is what's known as an "Urban Legend." Dealing with

the problem Before we outline the methods of honey bee

removal or eradication it may be helpful to review some

information about the honey bee nest in your wall. Why did

the bees choose this wall? When honey bees reproduce in

the spring, they can quickly become over crowded. This

activates a natural event called swarming wherein about


30/48

one half of the bees in a colony will leave with the old

queen to search out a new home. In the old established hive

new queens will hatch, mate with drones and begin laying

eggs. The old queen will fly a short distance from the hiveand land. Attendant bees will cluster around her forming a

large mass called a swarm. Scout bees will leave the swarm

and search out a cavity to form a new nest. This new cavity

could be in a tree, an old barrel, a cavity in a wall in your

home with an opening at least 5/16 inch, or they could (in a

rare situation) build an exposed nest on the side of your

home or on vegetation. If the cavity in your wall had bees

before and the opening was not sealed, the odor of the waxcomb may attract them to that location. Could I have

prevented bees from occupying my wall? Yes, if you had

sealed all holes 5/16 inch or larger that led to a cavity.

What does the swarm do inside the cavity to make a honey

bee nest? When honey bees move into a cavity, they first

build wax comb cells and begin to fill some with nectar

(this later becomes honey) and pollen. The queen will beginto lay eggs in other cells. After 3 days, the eggs hatch and

become larvae feeding on honey and pollen. After 9 days of

feeding, larvae become pupa then adults. This cycle (from

egg to adult) takes 21 days. In a recently established hive,

the amount of comb and brood (immature bees) will be

small. The average swarm contains about 10,000 bees. A

more established hive may have wax comb filling up the

entire space 16" x 4" x 7-8 ' between the studs and may

contain 50,000 to 60,000 honey bees. If the wall becomes

too warm, especially on the south side of the building, the

wax may melt and the honey may flow down the wall. An

active hive keeps the hive cool enough so this seldom


31/48

happens. What safety concerns should I be thinking about?

You should be concerned if someone living in the house is

allergic to honey bee stings. Only a small percentage of

people are allergic to honey bees; but for these peoplevenom can be life threatening. Honey bees sting to defend

their colony. Avoid walking in front of the entrance and

avoid any disturbance near the hive. When bees leave the

entrance, they usually fly upward. If the opening to the nest

is higher than 8 to10 feet walking by will cause little

disturbance. Should I plug the hole? You could, but don't!

Bees will look for another exit which could include holes

leading into your home; your house has several openingslike those around ductwork, or ceiling and wall fixtures.

You don't want the bee's only route out to be through the

inside of your house. Can the bees be saved? Sometimes

bees can be saved by trapping them out of the wall or by

physically removing them after dismantling the wall

covering. Both procedures are time consuming and costly

and most beekeepers are not interested in providing thisservice. The value of the honey bees to a beekeeper is

minimal as the survival rate for bees removed physically

(cutting out comb, etc.) is poor. If there is no immediate

threat, what is the best time for removal? Late winter/early

spring is a good time because the bees have consumed a

large amount of their stored honey during the winter. Also,

the number of bees present in the hive is lower than it will

be later in the spring. If I can find a beekeeper to remove

them what is involved? The ideal situation for removal of

honey bees would be in the late winter/early spring and

where the wall is easily dismantled exposing the comb and

contents. The homeowner must pay the expense of


32/48

dismantling the wall and having the wall rebuilt. The comb

with brood and honey is cut out and placed in frames to be

placed in the beekeeper's hive box. Some beekeepers use a

special vacuum that will remove bees from the exposedcomb without killing them. Often the situation is not ideal

because of the kind of building material (brick, cement or

stone), the location, or some other factor that presents an

obstacle. Before you call a beekeeper for assistance, you

should be able to answer the following questions:Whatkind of insect is nesting in your wall? Are the insects animmediate danger to people or animals? Has anyone been

stung? Is the entrance in the wall near a place where peoplemust walk? How high is the entrance? Is there morethan one entrance? How long have they been there?What is the wall construction material?What directiondoes the wall face? Options for removing or eradicating

bees from walls So, what are your options? In our opinion

here are your choices. Just leave them alone unless

safety is a concern. Homeowners often follow this advice.In many cases the unmanaged bees will die over the winter

due to problems with disease, parasitic mites, starvation,

prolonged cold weather and other conditions. If you are

convinced that the bees are dead, be sure to seal that

opening as well as other places where bees may enter.Contact a pest control company for assistance. You may

need to call several before you find one that will eradicatehoney bees. Expect that eradication will not be a simple

task and the charges for these services will reflect the

difficulty of the job. It has been our experience that a single

treatment kills only the adult bees flying or walking around

the nest. After a few days the pupa, protected by the wax of


33/48

their cells, will emerge as adults, so you still have a

problem. We recommend that you insist they treat at least

2-3 times over a two week period. Find a beekeeper that

will physically remove the comb and bees after the wall isremoved exposing the nest. Expect to pay the beekeeper

because the value of the bees is questionable at best. The

labor needed to remove the colony coupled with angry bees

and sticky honey makes this job difficult. When the

beekeeper is done, you still have to rebuild the wall. Some

beekeepers have saved bees by trapping them from the

wall. Essentially, trapping involves reducing the entrance to

one opening and installing an exit cone. The cone is usuallyscreen wire shaped into a funnel-like design. The base is

secured over a single entrance. A small exit at the tip of the

cone, no larger than 3/8", allows the bees to exit but they

cannot re-enter. The beekeeper places a small hive with a

few frames of brood, honey and a queen (this is called a

nucleus or "nuc") near the exit cone. Bees that leave the

nest in your wall will then join the "nuc". Depending uponlocation, height, etc., a scaffold, ladders, and devices may

be required to hold the "nuc" in place. The size of the nest

in your wall will determine how long it takes for all the

bees to complete the exit. We have found that it can take up

to two months in some cases. It works best by starting early

in the spring when the colony is small. Other details on

trapping techniques of trapping can be found in beekeeping

publications. Eradicate them yourself. Aerosolpesticides, containing pyrethroids labeled to kill wasps and

hornets can be used and are effective because they kill the

insect immediately on contact. For best results, wait until

evening and spray into the opening/openings. If you can


34/48

locate the actual location of the colony in your wall, you

can drill additional holes through which to apply the

insecticide. You may have to spray every two to three days.

Spraying is less effective if the nest is located far inside thewall away from the opening. It will take longer if the nest

has been there for some time. When you first spray, the un-

hatched developing bees (pupa) are protected by wax

comb; therefore, you may have to repeat the process again

in two to three weeks. After determining there is no more

activity, seal all holes that could attract future invaders.

Other insecticides like Sevin in a dust formulation may be

applied using a gas motor or electric blower, modified witha small opening, to force the dust into the nest. Bees will

not die immediately but will track the dust throughout the

hive causing eventual death. Some have used a garden

hand-duster dispenser to introduce the dust into the nest. It

is important to follow label instructions and safety

precautions. When using a pesticide application, follow all

of the precautionary statements on the label to ensure thatyou don't harm yourself. Clothing worn when making an

application should always be washed separate from the

normal laundry. Always make sure the pesticides you use

are properly labeled for the job at hand, and follow the

directions. In each of the above cases, it's important to

determine where the nest was located. Honey and wax that

is not kept cool by a colony of honeybees can melt and seep

through your walls. The smell of honey and wax left behind

by a colony is also a calling card to new swarms. If you

don't take the precaution of carefully sealing your wall, you

can quickly have another colony take up residence in the

same place. If the colony is large, tear out the wall, clean


35/48

up the wax and honey, and paint over the area. Remember

that it's cheaper to replace a sheet of drywall from the

inside of the house than it is to replace the outside of the

wall. Bees in a tree cavity Much of the informationprovided for bees in a wall could also apply for bees in a

tree near your home. In many cases the bees are high in the

tree and the home owner may not even be aware they exist.

Since bees in a tree cavity have little room to expand they

may swarm; therefore, it would be advisable to have the

name of a beekeeper to call in the event that this happens

Bee Removal on youtube

link 1link 2

link 3

link 4

link 5

When you are discovering a problem with honeybees you

might want to consider our Bee Removal Service. Before

you do it might be helpful to know whether we are dealingwith a swarm of bees or a nesting colony. For clarification

see point 5 further below on this page. When a swarm of

bees arrives on your property, despite the thousands of bees

buzzing around, it is no form of aggression or attack.

Swarming is part of the natural reproductive life cycle of

honeybees. When a bee colony becomes too large it divides

by swarming. Here in Victoria the swarming season is

usually between September and December but on occasions

colonies may swarm at other times. Warmer weather,

combined with an abundance of nectar and pollen,

stimulate the colony to increase in population. Swarms

usually emerge from the colonies between 10am and 2pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xExisBP-w50http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwONsNPox_ghttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSTBuXuR89khttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=if3YEaBzT74http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noGvJX8Icrs&feature=relatedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xExisBP-w50http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwONsNPox_ghttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSTBuXuR89khttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=if3YEaBzT74http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noGvJX8Icrs&feature=related


36/48

on warm sunny days. The nesting site of honeybees is

usually a sheltered, darkened enclosure. This could be tree

hollows or in structures such as attics, between the studs of

house walls, garages or other buildings, within porch roofs,meter boxes, chimneys or in similar areas - and in rare

circumstances in the open, on the branches of a tree or

bush. Beekeepers keep their bee colonies in boxes, called

hives. To ensure that unwanted honeybees are not

unnecessarily destroyed, members of The Beekeepers Club

offer a Swarm Collection service, as well as the removal of

bee nests where possible. These bees are getting relocated

and cultivated over weeks and month following theremoval. For this to be successful, the removal of bee

colonies can only be done from spring through to end of

summer, providing those bee colonies with sufficient time

to recover from such a stressful process and rebuild their

nest before the winter restricts their activities. 1. Bee

Swarm Collection A swarm of honey bees will cluster

temporarily at one location, often hanging off the branch ofa tree or bush, while a few scout bees locate a new home.

When a suitable home is found the swarm moves as a

group to that new site. The existance of a swarm can take a

few hours or several days. If the swarm of bees is in an

accessible location, then we can assist by collecting the

swarm. When you see a swarm arriving on your property:

Don't panic - they are not on the attack. Keep children and

pets inside the house until the flying bees have clustered

onto a bush or another object. After the swarm has

clustered and most of the bees have stopped flying, it is

normally safe to be outside the house. Keep children and

animals well away from the swarm. Arrange to have the


37/48


38/48

people refer to wasps, yellowjackets and hornets as bees

and their main concern is with the fact that these insects

can sting. Knowledge of these insects' behaviour is

essential to their management. As the nests of these insectsare usually the target for control, pest control applicators

must understand the nesting and make-up of the colonies.

Nests and Colonies Yellowjackets, hornets and paper wasps

are all in the same insect family, Vespidae. The common

Paper wasp with its umbrella shaped nest or single comb

best demonstrates the basic building pattern of a colony.

Nests of certain species are round and do not appear

"comb" shaped at first sight. Paper Wasps From spring on,the queen lays eggs and the daughter workers feed larvae

and expand the comb or nest. The workers obtain their

energy from flower nectar. Later in the season, some of the

larvae develop into males and others will become next

year's queens. The new males and females mate with those

of other colonies and the fertilized females find hiding

places under tree bark or in logs and wait out the winteruntil new colonies can begin in the spring. Structural

Manual 5.3 The males die in winter. The nest disintegrates

and will not be used again. In the spring, the lone female

reproductive begins her nest by attaching a thick paper

strand to an overhanging structure. She then builds hollow

cells by chewing wood or plant fibers (cellulose) mixed

with water and shaped with her mou

thparts. When a half dozen cells or so are hanging together,

the Queen lays an egg near the bottom of each one. The

little white grubs that hatch from the egg glue their rear

ends in the cell and begin receiving nourishment (e.g.,


39/48

chewed up caterpillars) from their mother. When they grow

large enough to fill the cell cavity, they break the glued

spot and hold on their own. Mature larvae, then, spin silk

caps, closing off the cell, and molt into pupae. This samelarval behaviour is followed by yellowjackets and hornets..

All larvae are females. Other than their white colour, the

pupae look like adults. As they mature they develop adult

systems, shed their pupal skins, chew through their silk cell

cap, pump out their wings, and take their place as worker

assistants to their mother. (Paper wasp queens and workers

are the same size; yellowjacket and hornet queens are

larger than their daughters). Management and Control ofPaper Wasps (Polistes) Paper wasps nests are often found

near doorways and other human activity areas. Colonies

can become a problem when the wasps are competing with

people for food. To control Paper Wasps nests which are

found on structures, the following tips may be helpful:Remove old nests and scrape the point of attachment (this

spot is often selected by new Hornet. queens for attachmentof new combs). Caulk openings in attics, windowframes and around walls to keep females out of unused

rooms and spaces. If pesticides are to be used for nestdestruction: Use a product labelled for Paper wasps.Use a pressurized spray; use extension poles if necessary.

If a ladder is needed, wear a bee suit and veil. Proceed

cautiously. Yellowjackets Yellowjacket colonies begin witha large fertilized queen; she develops smaller daughter

workers and later reproduces just as the Paper wasps but

the nest structure is not the same. Some yellowjacket nests

hang in trees and shrubs, and some are developed

underground. Aerial Nesters Several yellow jackets make


40/48

the aerial football-shaped paper nests, commonly called

hornets nests. Two of these yellowjackets are common - the

Aerial yellowjacket and the Bald Faced The Aerial

yellowjacket begins its nest in March or April and isfinished and no longer active by the end of July. Their nests

are usually attached to building overhangs and are more

round than those of other species. The Bald Faced hornet is

larger than the other yellow jackets and is black and white -

not black and yellow. In the spring, the Aerial nesting

queen develops a small comb, like the Paper wasp with a

dozen or so cells, but she encloses it with a gray paper

envelope. The daughter workers take over the nest dutiesand by mid summer the nest is full size. A full-sized Bald

Faced hornet nest consists of not a single umbrella comb

like the Paper wasp, but four to six wide circular combs -

one hanging below the other and all enclosed with a paper ,

layered envelope. Bald Faced hornets capture flies as well

as species of yellowjackets for food. Their nests are

attached to trees or shrubs, or on buildings. AlthoughAerial colonies have large number of workers, their food

gathering habits rarely bring them in contact with people.

Underground Nesters The stinging wasp, often identified as

a yellowjacket, is black and yellow. Primarily yellow bands

cover a dark abdomen. They begin their nests much like the

aerial nesters - with an enveloped small comb made of

wood fiber paper. However, these nests are started in soil

depressions, rodent burrows or any small hole that will

provide protection until the nest is finished. As the workers

begin nest care, they enlarge the entrance hole and expand

the nest. Combs are placed in tiers. Nests can be found in

building wall voids, attics, hollow trees andother enclosed


41/48

spaces as well as the ground. Aerial and Ground Nesters

Only a few species of stinging insects require control. The

following are habits and characteristics of those species

which normally come in conflict with people:

They livein areas which people have modified for their use such as

golf courses, parks, yards or other recreation areas. Theyhave large colonies Their habits do not restrict them to aspecific kind of prey. Essentially, they are scavengers and

they enjoy garbage cans, dumpsters and picnic areas.Problems with yellow jackets commonly occur when:People step on or jar a colony entrance. A colonyinvades a structure in such a way that it threat-ens the

inhabitants. They are a nuisance in competing for food.Management of Yellow jackets Management of outdoor

food is very important in a yellowjacket control program.

Some sanitation tips to keeping mind: Clean garbagecans regularly and fit them with tight lids. Keep garbageat a minimum. Remove attractive refuge several times a

day during periods of activity. Keep openings instructures closed or place screens over openings. If it is

necessary to treat nests with pesticides, try and conduct the

application of ground and aerial nests after dark (workers

are in the nest at that time). Begin your application with the

entrance hole in view and a plan of action. Wear a bee suit

and veil during the application. Ensure pant legs and shirt

sleeves are taped in order to keep the insects out of the suit.Gloves should also be worn. Move slowly as quick

movements will be met with aggressive behaviour. Make

sure that the plastic extension tube from the pressurized

liquid spray is inserted into the entrance hole. Note: If the

pesticide to be applied lowers the nest temperature, be


42/48


43/48

food stores and will not exhibit defensive behavior unless

unduly provoked.

5. What should homeowners do about a honey bee swarm

on their property? When honey bees swarm they will settleon a tree limb, bush, or other convenient site. The

cohesiveness of the swarm is due to their attraction to a

pheromone produced by the queen. The swarm will send

out scout bees to seek a cavity to nest in and will move on

when a suitable nesting site is found. Rarely, swarms may

initiate comb construction in the open if a suitable cavity

cannot be found. You may want to call a local beekeeper to

see if he would like to collect the swarm. Contact yourcounty extension office or the Nebraska Department of

Agriculture for a list of beekeepers in your area. Late

season swarms are of little value to beekeepers. A

traditional poem advises: A swarm in May - is worth a load

of hay. A swarm in June - is worth a silver spoon. A swarm

in July - isn't worth a fly.

6. How does a beekeeper go about capturing a swarm ofhoney bees? A swarm is looking for a new nesting site. A

beekeeper can capture a swarm by placing a suitable

container, such as an empty beehive, on the ground below

the swarm and dislodging the bees at the entrance to the

hive. The bees will begin to move into the hive which can

be removed after dark to the beekeeper's apiary. You can

observe the bees scent-fanning at the entrance to signal the

entrance to the new nest as the bees march into their new

home. If for some reason the queen does not go into the

new hive, the bees will abandon it and form a cluster where

she lands.

7. What type of nesting sites will honey bees seek? Honey


44/48

bees are cavity nesters and will seek a cavity of at least 15

liters of storage space. Hollow trees are a preferred nesting

sites. Occasionally, bees will nest in the hollow walls of

buildings, under porches, and in other "man-made" sites ifthey can find an entrance to a suitable cavity.

8. What can be done if a honey bee swarm establishes itself

in an undesirable place? Honey bees are beneficial

pollinators and should be left alone and appreciated unless

their nest are in conflict with human activity. If honey bees

nest in the walls of a home, they can be removed or killed if

necessary; however, it is advisable to open the area and

remove the honey and combs or rodents and insects will beattracted. Also, without bees to control the temperature, the

wax may melt and honey drip from the combs. After

removal, the cavity should be filled with foam insulation as

the nest odor will be attractive to future swarms. You may

want to seek the assistance of a professional beekeeper or

exterminator. Nests should be removed promptly from

problem sites. After several months, they may have stored aconsiderable amount of honey. You can prevent swarms

from nesting in walls by preventive maintenance. Honey

bees will not make an entrance to a nest. They look for an

existing entrance, so periodic inspection and caulking is all

that is necessary to prevent them from occupying spaces in

walls.

9. Why are we observing fewer swarms than in previous

years? In the 1980's, two mites that parasitize honey bees

were introduced into the U.S. They have spread throughout

the state and have eliminated many wild or feral colonies.

In addition, the number of colonies managed by beekeepers

has declined during the past decade. Farmers and gardeners


45/48

producing tree fruits, small fruits, forage legumes, oil seed

crops, and vegetable crops requiring bee pollination need to

consider pollination requirements as once abundant honey

bee pollinators are no longer something they can take forgranted. Managed honey bee colonies may be needed to

assure adequate pollination of these crops.

We work in all these are in NSW:

Abbotsbury Abbotsford Alexandria Alfords Point Allambie

Heights Allawah Annandale Annangrove Arncliffe Arndell

Park Artarmon Ashbury Ashcroft Ashfield Auburn Audley

Austral Australia Square Balgowlah Balgowlah Heights

Balmain Balmain East Bangor Banksia BanksmeadowBankstown Barden Ridge Bardwell Park Bardwell Valley

Bass Hill Baulkham Hills Beacon Hill Beaconsfield

Beaumont Hills Beecroft Belfield Bella Vista Bellevue Hill

Belmore Berala Beverley Park Beverly Hills Bexley

Bexley North Birchgrove Birrong Blacktown Blakehurst

Bondi Bondi Junction Bonnet Bay Bonnyrigg Bonnyrigg

Heights Bossley Park Botany Botany Breakfast PointBrighton-le-sands Bronte, Waverley Brookvale Bundeena

Burraneer Burwood Burwood Heights Busby Cabarita

Cabramatta Cabramatta West Camellia Cammeray

Camperdown Campsie Canada Bay Canley Heights Canley

Vale Canterbury Caringbah Carlingford Carlton Carramar

Carss Park Cartwright Castle Cove Castle Hill Castlecrag

Casula Cecil Hills Centennial Park Chatswood Chatswood

West Cheltenham Cherrybrook Chester Hill Chifley

Chippendale Chipping Norton Chiswick Chullora Clemton

Park Clontarf Clovelly Clyde Como Concord Concord

Repatriation Hospital Concord West Condell Park Connells

Point Constitution Hill Coogee, South Coogee Cremorne


46/48

Cremorne Point Cronulla Crows Nest Croydon Croydon

Park Curl Curl Daceyville Darling Point Darlinghurst

Darlinghurst Darlington Dawes Point Denistone Denistone

East Denistone East Denistone West Dolans Bay DollsPoint Double Bay Dover Heights Drummoyne Dulwich

Hill Dundas Dundas Valley Dural Earlwood East Hills East

Killara East Lindfield East Ryde East Suburbs Eastern

Suburbs Eastgardens Eastlakes Eastwood Edensor Park

Edgecliff Edmondson Park Elizabeth Bay Enfield Engadine

Enmore Epping, North Epping Ermington Erskineville

Eveleigh Fairfield Fairfield East Fairfield Heights Fairfield

West Fairlight Five Dock Forest Lodge Forestville FrenchsForest Georges Hall Girraween Gladesville Glebe Glenfield

Glenhaven Gordon Granville Grays Point Green Valley

Greenacre Greenfield Park Greenwich Greystanes

Grosvenor Place Guildford Guildford West Gymea Gymea

Bay Haberfield Hammondville Harbord Harris Park

Haymarket Haymarket Heathcote Heckenberg Henley

Hillsdale Hinchinbrook Holroyd Holsworthy HomebushHomebush Bay Homebush West Horningsea Park Horsley

Park Hoxton Park Hunters Hill Huntleys Cove Huntleys

Point Hurlstone Park Hurstville Hurstville Grove Illawong

Jannali Kangaroo Point Kareela Kellyville Kellyville Ridge

Kensington Kenthurst Killara Killarney Heights Kings

Langley Kings Park Kingsford Kingsgrove Kirrawee

Kirribilli Kogarah Kogarah Bay Kurnell Kyeemagh,

Rockdale Kyle Bay La Perouse Lakemba Lalor Park Lane

Cove Lane Cove North Lane Cove West Lansdowne

Lansvale Lavender Bay Leichhardt Leppington Lewisham

Liberty Grove Lidcombe Lilli Pilli Lilyfield Lindfield

Linley Point Little Bay Liverpool Liverpool South Loftus


47/48

Longueville Lucas Heights Lugarno Lurnea Macquarie

Park Macquarie University Maianbar Malabar Manly

Manly Vale Marayong Maroubra Marrickville Marsfield

Mascot Mascot Matraville Mays Hill Mcmahons PointMeadowbank Melrose Park Menai Merrylands Merrylands

West Middle Cove Middle Dural Middleton Grange Miller

Millers Point Milperra Milsons Point Miranda Monterey

Moore Park Moorebank Mortdale Mortlake Mosman

Mount Lewis Mount Pritchard Naremburn Narwee Neutral

Bay Newington Newtown Normanhurst North North

Balgowlah North Manly North Parramatta, North Rocks

North Ryde North Ryde North Strathfield North SuburbsNorth Turramurra North Wahroonga North West Suburbs

North Willoughby Northbridge Northmead Northwood

Oatlands Oatley Old Guildford Old Toongabbie Oxford

Falls Oyster Bay Paddington Padstow Padstow Heights

Pagewood Panania Parramatta Peakhurst Peakhurst Heights

Pemulwuy Pendle Hill Pennant Hills Penrith Penshurst

Petersham Phillip Bay Picnic Point Pleasure Point PointPiper Port Botany Port Hacking Potts Hill Potts Point Potts

Point Prairiewood Prestons Prestons Prospect Punchbowl

Putney Pyrmont Queen Victoria Building Queens Park

Queenscliff Ramsgate Ramsgate Beach Randwick Redfern

Regents Park Revesby Revesby Heights Rhodes Riverview

Riverwood Rockdale Rodd Point Rose Bay Rosebery

Rosehill Roselands Roseville Roseville Chase Rouse Hill

Royal Exchange Rozelle Rushcutters Bay Russell Lea

Rydalmere Rydalmere Ryde Sadleir Sandringham Sandy

Point Sans Souci Seaforth Sefton Seven Hills Seven Hills

West Silverwater Silverwater Smithfield South Granville

South Hurstville South Suburbs South Turramurra South


48/48

Wentworthville South West Suburbs St Ives St Ives Chase

St Johns Park St Leonards St Peters Stanmore Strathfield

Strathfield South Strawberry Hills Summer Hill Surry Hills

Sutherland Sydenham sydney Sylvania Sylvania WatersTaren Point Telopea Tempe Tennyson Point The Rocks

Thornleigh Toongabbie Turramurra Turrella Ultimo

University Of University Of New South Wales University

Of Nsw Vaucluse Villawood Voyager Wahroonga Wakeley

Wareemba Warrawee Warwick Farm Waterfall Waterloo

Documents

Bee Removal Sydney Call Now 0423688352