Bathroom Storage Unit

Wilkerdos.com Copyright 2015

Material ListPage 1

I built this cabinet to fit my specific mirror but you could use it as a guide and change the dimensions to fit your own mirror.

Notes:

My wall space is 77" wide by 43" tall.

My mirror is 3/16" thick and my backsplash is 4" tall.

I attached this permanently, so if I ever decide to tear it out, the mirror will also have to be replaced.

11" 7-1/2"

51"

Quantity Item Notes1 4’ x 8’ x 3/4” plywood Construction grade1 2’ x 4’ x 1/2” plywood Construction grade

Some 1 1/4" brad nails4 Drawer pulls8 3/4” screws

311’ Moulding Might be different for your space1 tube Liquid Nails Mirror

Hot glueWood glue

Cut ListPage 2

The pieces colored the same are identical to each other.

The left sheet is 3/4" construction grade plywood and the right sheet is the 1/2" construction grade plywood.

All the pieces needed that are made from 1/2" material will fit on a 2' x 4' sheet of plywood. I recommend checking your scraps to see if you already have a cut off that is large enough. If not, there is a section in the big box stores that sell plywood this size.

24"

48"

6"

9 7/

8"

3-1/2"3-1/2"

11"

8"

4-1/2"6"

11"

6"

1-1/2"

9 7/

8"

47"51

"

32-1

/2"

6"

8-3/

4"

5-1/4"

Picture FramesPage 3

I pushed my picture frames out as far as possible so I could have the most amount of mirror exposed.

To figure out the size of my mirrors I considered the overall width of my mirror then subtracted 11" (which is the size I wanted my storage unit to be). This left me with the amount of space I had left for my two picture frames.

I used precut moulding right off the shelf from a local big box store and just cut 45 degree angles on all corners.

To join them, use glue and pocket holes. Note: The moulding I picked only had one portion thick enough to drill a pocket hole, so I only used one in each corner.

After the frame was together I added additional, thinner, moulding to the top, outside, perimeter to make it more decorative. If you do the same, use glue and 1 1/4" brad nails.

32-1/2"

45-1/4"

26-1/2"

39"

Build up the WallPage 4

Because I want my picture frame to be flush with the edge of the entire wall, but my mirror doesn't extend that far, I decided to build up that space to make it all on the same plane. This empty space was 2 3/8". To maximize the amount of mirror exposed I went ahead and added a board of the same size to the top of the mirror as well.

These boards need to be the same thickness as your mirror. I used a thickness planer to work down some material to the proper size but if you don't have a planer you could resaw the boards to their needed thickness. I used a 2x4 but you could also use the left over plywood.

Test fit the boards before attaching them permanently. Use liquid nails along the length of the board then come

43"

74-1/2"

77"

2 3/

8"

back and use a few dabs of hot glue as well. Move quickly since the hot glue dries very fast and press down firmly while the hot glue dries. This will hold the board in place while the liquid nails has time to dry and hold it permanently.

Repeat the steps to attach the second board.

Note: If you already know what color you are going to stain your frames then I recommend staining these boards before attaching them to the wall.

Make the SidesPage 5

To make the sides, I recommend leaving them together then once the dados are all cut, you can cut it in half to make the two sides. This will ensure that the slots for the shelves will line up perfectly with each other. Note: An 1/8" is added to the width to compensate for the blade kerf when cutting it in half.

If you do not want to make dados then skip this step completely and I'll explain in the next step how to join the shelves.

If you have a table saw sled then use it to cut your 3/4" and 1/2" dados. These need to be 3 1/6" deep. If not, then attach a temporary fence, using a scrap board, to your miter gauge. Another option would be to use a router to cut in these dados.

Once you are done, cut the board directly in half to get two sides that are 6". 4-

1/2"

9-1/

4"

13-3

/4" 18

-1/2

"

27-3

/4"

37"

46-1

/2"

3/4"

3/4"

1/2"

1/2"

1/2"

1/2"

3/4"

3/4"

12 1/8"6" 6"

Insert the ShelvesPage 6

Use glue and 1 1/4" brad nails to attach the shelves into their dados.

If you did not make dados, then you can use glue and a butt joint to attach the shelves. To make install go fast, I recommend cutting two scrap boards to the height needed and using them to act as spacers. Set the spacers on the inside of the sides then set the shelf on top. Use a pilot hole to prevent cracking then 1 1/4" screws to attach the shelf.

To make the unit look a little more robust, add a few face frames.

Since the drawer fronts will be added down below, these only need to extend to the bottom of the last 3/4" shelf.

Use glue and 1 1/4" brad nails to attach these.

Next use glue and 1 1/4" brad nails again to attach the top face frame.

Attach Face Frames

Page 7

To figure out how thick I needed to make the back I took the unit inside and set it in place. I used a level to make it plumb then measured the gap between my unit and the mirror. It's just a coincidence that it's 3/4" (a nice one), but I definitely recommend measuring this before you attach a back.

Attach a Back

I didn't make my back go down all the way or it would run into the backspace from my countertop. My backsplash if 4" tall but again, measure yours before cutting and attaching this piece.

Attach using glue and 1 1/4" brad nails.

Before moving on: If you have a curve from your backslash to the countertop surface then lay the unit over and use either a portable belt sander, a random orbital sander, or even a good ole sanding block, to put a small radius on the bottom back edge of the unit. This will allow the unit to sit closer to the backsplash.

To get a profile of this curve, hold a piece of paper or cardboard at the end of your counter then use this as a template.

Page 8

Make the DrawersI made the drawers without sliders to save on cost. So the drawers just sit on the shelf (that was added earlier) and slide in and out on top of it.

First make a 1/2" dado 1/4" up from the bottom that is 3/16" deep on all the front/back/side pieces.

Next attach a temporary stop block to your miter gauge and cut a 1/2" dado on both side edges of all the side pieces.

Side pieces

Front and back pieces

1/2"

1/2"

1/2"

1/4"

1/4"

Page 9

Make the DrawersUse glue and 1 1/4" brad nails to assemble the drawers.

Start off by attaching two side pieces to a back/front piece. Then slip in the bottom.

Now glue and nail on the other front/back piece to complete one drawer.

Repeat the process to make the other three.

Before adding the faux face, you can either leave the face as is or add a simple profile using a router. I went with a 1/4" Roman Ogee bit on mine.

Page 10

Make the DrawersUse two dabs of hot glue to temporarily attach the faux face onto the drawer body. Apply pressure while it dries then move to the inside of the drawer and use two 1" screws to attach it permanently.

This drawer face needs to be spaced so that there is 1/2" on the top and bottom, and 7/8" on the left and right side.

Now you can add whatever drawer pulls you prefer. Use the hardware that comes with the drawer pulls to install it.

1/2"

7/8"

Page 11

Install Everything!With all the pieces made, it's time to install. I started with the left frame since that is the side that has an exposed edge. Use Liquid Nails Mirror to attach anything to the surface of the mirror. This is a special adhesive designed to not damage the mirror.

Also make sure to not place any adhesive 1/2" from the inside edge on the frames or you will be able to see it in the reflection of the mirror once it's attached.

After the left frame is attached, attach the center storage cabinet, then the right frame.

These frames are resting on top of the countertop backsplash.

If there is a slight gap in between the backsplash and the bottom of the storage unit, then use some caulk to fill it in.

Check out my website at Wilkerdos.com for other projects.

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